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Activite Anti-Age De L'extrait De Fitchia Nutans, Un Ingredient

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Activite Anti-Age De L'extrait De Fitchia Nutans, Un Ingredient C. R. Chimie xxx (2016) 1e7 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Comptes Rendus Chimie www.sciencedirect.com Full paper/Memoire Activite anti-age^ de l'extrait de Fitchia nutans, un ingredient cosmeticeutique d'un monoï traditionnel polynesien Anti-ageing activity of Fitchia nutans extract, a cosmeticeutical ingredient of a Polynesian traditional monoï Jean-Luc Ansel a, b, Quoc Ly a, Jean-François Butaud c, Mael Nicolas a, d, Gaetan€ Herbette e, Laurent Peno-Mazzarino f, Elian Lati f, * Phila Raharivelomanana a, a EIO, UMR 241, universite de la Polynesie française, BP 6570, 98702 Faa'a, Tahiti, France b Cosmetic-Valley, 1, place de la Cathedrale, 28200 Chartres, France c Consultant en foresterie et botanique polynesienne, BP 52832, 98716 Pirae, Tahiti, France d Geoazur, UMR 7329, Universite de NiceeSophia Antipolis, 250, rue Albert-Einstein, Sophia Antipolis, 06560 Valbonne, France e Spectropole, FR 1739, Universite Aix-Marseille, Campus Saint-Jerome,^ 13397 Marseille cedex 20, France f Laboratoire BIO-EC, 1, chemin de Saulxier, 91160 Longjumeau, France article info résumé Article history: Fitchia nutans (asterac ee), plante d'un genre endemique de Polynesie française, autrefois Received 17 December 2015 utilisee traditionnellement pour les soins de la peau comme ingredient des monoï sacres, Accepted 8 March 2016 fait partie de la cosmetop ee polynesienne. Les extraits de feuille de F. nutans ont et e soumis Available online xxxx a des tests d'activite anti-age,^ sur explants de peau ex vivo montrant leurs potentialites a Mots-cles: stimuler la croissance de collagene et d'elastine dermique. L'etude phytochimique de cette Fitchia nutans plante, realisee pour la premiere fois, montre que les constituants principaux sont des Activite anti-age^ sesquiterpenoïdes (incluant un nouveau produit naturel, le 15-isovaleroyloxydihydro- Test ex vivo sur peau costunolide), des phenylpropanoïdes et des composes phenoliques. Collagene © 2016 Academie des sciences. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. This is an open access Elastine article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/ Costunolide 4.0/). Isovalerates abstract Keywords: Cosmetopea regards on Fitchia nutans (asteraceae), an endemic plant previously used as a Fitchia nutans skin care ingredient included in a sacred traditional monoï preparation in French Poly- Anti-ageing activity nesia, led us to investigate its cosmetoceutical properties. An extract of leaves of F. nutans Ex vivo human skin tests was submitted to anti-ageing activity assays using ex vivo human skin tests and evidenced Collagen its potential to stimulate collagens and elastin dermal growth. We report herein the first Elastin Costunolide phytochemical study of this plant extract, showing that its main constituents are sesqui- Isovaleryl esters terpenoids (including a new natural product compound: 15-isovaleroyloxydihydrocos- tunolide), phenylpropanoids, and phenolic derivatives. © 2016 Academie des sciences. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/ 4.0/). * Auteur correspondant. Adresse e-mail: [email protected] (P. Raharivelomanana). http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.crci.2016.03.005 1631-0748/© 2016 Academie des sciences. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http:// creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Please cite this article in press as: J.-L. Ansel, et al., Activite anti-age^ de l'extrait de Fitchia nutans, un ingredient cosmeticeutique d'un monoï traditionnel polynesien, Comptes Rendus Chimie (2016), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.crci.2016.03.005 2 J.-L. Ansel et al. / C. R. Chimie xxx (2016) 1e7 1. Introduction 2. Materiels et methodes Fitchia nutans (asterac ee), appartenant a l'un des rares 2.1. Obtention de l'extrait genres endemiques de la Polynesie française, est une plante traditionnellement utilisee pour la preparation Collecte : le materiel veg etal de F. nutans, constituede d'un monoï sacre a Tahiti, qui n'a pas encore fait l'objet feuilles et branches, a et e collecte et identifie au col de d'une etude phytochimique [1]. Dans le genre Fitchia, Hamuta (Aorai), a une altitude de 980 m, par J.-F. Butaud le seule l'espece Fitchia speciosa a fait l'objet d'une etude 26 decembre 2013. phytochimique reportee dans la litterature [2], montrant Sechage : les branches ont et e effeuillees, puis les ainsi l'inter et^ qu'il y a d'avoir une meilleure con- feuilles et ecorces mises as echer a part en milieu aer eet a naissance de cette plante endemique tres peu connue, l'ombre pendant plusieurs jours jusqu'as echage complet, mais ayant eu un usage traditionnel d'importance ensuite conservees a l'abri de l'humidite. culturelle. Extraction : l'extraction a partir des feuilles sech ees de F. F. nutans est un arbuste a odeur aromatique puissante, nutans a et e effectuee selon la methode adaptee de F. autrefois utilise dans la cosmetop ee polynesienne, et dont Bohlmann [2]. Deux cent vingt grammes de feuilles seches les feuilles servaient pour parfumer le monoï sacrequi etait ont et ebroy ees, puis extraites par maceration sous ultra- destinesp eci fiquement aux membres de la famille royale sons avec 3,2 L d'un melange de solvants cyclohexane/ether (Arii) [1,3]. (2:1) pendant 1 h. L'extrait brut a et e filtre avec du papier Le genre Fitchia endemique de la Polynesie orientale filtre (Whatman), puis evapor e a sec al' evaporateur rotatif comporte huit especes : F. nutans (endemique de Tahiti), (Buchi vacuum pump V-700) sous pression reduite. Fitchia cordata (endemique de Bora-Bora), Fitchia cuneata L'extrait ainsi obtenu a et e pese. (endemique de Raiatea et de Tahaa), Fitchia mangarevensis (endemique des Gambier), Fitchia rapensis (endemique de 2.2. Fractionnement de l'extrait Rapa), F. speciosa (endemique des Iles Cook), F. tahitensis et Fitchia temariiana (endemiques de Tahiti). Toutes ces Fractionnement et separation de F. nutans :lefrac- especes sont tres odorantes et souvent utilisees pour cette tionnement de l'extrait brut de F. nutans a et eeffectu eprin- propriet e. cipalement par chromatographie liquide sur silice (silice 60 F. nutans (J.D. Hooker) est une espece endemique Merck 40 mm) a basse pression sur colonne ouverte. L'elution restreinte a Tahiti appartenant a la famille des Asterac ees et a et e guidee puis suivie par analyse en chromatographie sur a l'ordre des Asterales. Appele localement « anei », c'est un couche mince (CCM ; plaques de 20 Â 20 cm, gel de silice 60 arbuste de 4 a 8 m de hauteur, poussant dans les forets^ de Merck F254, epaisseur de couche de 200 mm, taille de par- nuages (800e1400 m) sur les sommets de Tahiti. Le bois est ticule de 10e12 mm) de l'extrait brut dans des melanges jaune et aromatique. Les limbes des feuilles sont simples et cyclohexane/ether, 2,50 g d'extrait brut de feuilles ont et e opposes, ovales, longs de 7 a 11,5 cm et larges de 4 a 7 cm. depos es sur gel de silice. Un gradient de solvants a et eutilis e Les feuilles degagent une forte odeur caracteristique. C'est pour l'elution, du moins polaire au plus polaire : 150 mL de une plante liguliflore, avec des capitules homogames vol- cyclohexane 100 %, 250 mL de cyclohexane/ether (3:1) et umineux (jusqu'a 4 cm de diametre) a fleurs ligulees, dont 150 mL d'ether 100 %. Les fractions de 25 mL ont et e le receptacle, portant des palettes lanceol ees, est entoure recueillies, puis control^ ees par CCM avant leur regroupement. d'un large involucre comportant de nombreuses bractees Le controle^ des fractions a et er ealis e par analyse CCM imbriquees. Les fleurs sont jaune orangeet a multiples avec un dep ot^ de chaque fraction sur une plaque de CCM, petales. L'arbre est a feuilles caduques et produit des puis migration avec un melange de cyclohexane/ether akenes [3]. (3:1). La rev elation est faite par observation directe ala Actuellement rare et presente a des stations difficiles lampe UV a 254 nm ou par pulverisation de la plaque a d'acces, F. nutans se reg en ere relativement bien, en rai- l'acide sulfurique (1 mL/10 mL d'ethanol) et a la vanilline son de plantules abondantes dans le sous-bois des sta- (500 mg/100 mL d'ethanol) ; elle est suivie d'un chauffage a tions connues et pourrait probablement faire l'objet de 100 C qui permet de mettre en evidence les composes plantations en conditions favorables ; des essais de carbonyles. Les fractions identiques ont et er eunies, plantations pour la conservation sont actuellement sech ees puis pesees. Les composes suivants ont et e isoles : menes [1]. 1 (10 mg), 2 (14 mg), 3 (3.1 mg), 4 (12 mg), 5 (5.8 mg), 6 Compte tenu de son usage passe, nous avons tout (2 mg), 7 (1,2 mg), 8 (1 mg), 9 (3 mg). d'abord proced e a une analyse phytochimique afin d'iden- tifier ses principaux constituants, puis realise une etude de 2.3. Identification des constituants l'extrait de feuilles de F. nutans pour prospecter ses potentialites dans le domaine cosmetique en tant L'identification des constituants a et er ealis ee par ^ qu'ingredient actif anti-age par des tests ex vivo sur des analyse par resonance magnetique nucleaire (RMN) des explants de peau humaine maintenus en survie. En effet, les composes isoles. ^ proprietes de cette plante oubliee pourraient etre davant- Les spectres RMN 1D (1Het13C) et 2D (DEPTQ135, age valorisees dans le domaine de la cosmetique, etant correlation homonucleaire COSY 1He1H, correlation ^ donne que sa mise en culture pourrait etre possible et het eronucl eaire HMBC 1He13C et correlation HSQC) des envisageable.
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