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MACEDONIA 761 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (Without Number) © Lonely Planet Publications 761 Macedonia Македонија HIGHLIGHTS Skopje Macedonia’s burgeoning capital has history, good eats and buzzing bars, and is a base for regional travel ( p764 ) Ohrid Macedonia’s spiritual heart, Ohrid overlooks a magnificent lake, with sublime churches, summer beaches and nightlife ( p767 ) Bitola Set below the lush hills of Pelister National Park, stylish Bitola has old-world charm in its neoclassical architecture and laid-back cafe life ( p770 ) MACEDONIA FAST FACTS Area 25,713 sq km Budget 1530MKD per day Capital Skopje Country code %389 Famous for Lake Ohrid, Byzantine monasteries, name dispute with Greece Language Macedonian Money Macedonian denar (MKD); A$1 = 33.3MKD; C$1 = 37.8MKD; €1 = 60MKD; ¥100 = 47MKD; NZ$1 = 26MKD; UK£1 = 67.5MKD; US$1= 44.6MKD Population 2 million Phrases zdravo (hello), blagodaram/fala Visas unnecessary for many visitors; see (thanks), molam (please), prijatno (goodbye) p772 TRAVEL HINTS Many street signs are in Cyrillic. People often give directions according to landmarks – maybe because many street addresses are listed as bb, meaning bez broj (without number). ROAMING MACEDONIA Enjoy Skopje’s old-town attractions and cafe life for a day, then experience Ohrid’s culture, churches and lake for two days. Still largely unexplored, Macedonia retains an air of mystery, an ethos accentuated by its vast stretches of pristine mountain wilderness and a unique cultural legacy that combines ancient ruins, Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques and concrete Yugoslav mementos. Fun-loving Macedonia also offers genuine homegrown hospitality and roaring traditional festivals. Here food and drink are not only cheap by Western standards, but also delicious – many swear by Macedonia’s tomatoes, sweet red peppers and robust wines. One benefit of Macedonia’s small size is that the most important places are well-connected and can be tackled quickly. The capital, Skopje, is a modernising metropolis with intriguing historical attractions, good restaurants and happening nightlife, while the most-visited destination, Ohrid, is marked by a medieval castle, atmospheric old town and its immense lake. Both Ohrid and Bitola (Macedonia’s stylish second city) are flanked by mountains, so it’s also perfect for off-the-beaten- track outdoor activities. For the adventurous traveller, Macedonia is hard to beat. 762 MACEDONIA •• History lonelyplanet.com 0 60 km MACEDONIA 0 30 miles E851 Gnjilane E65 Bujanovac SERBIA E871 Gjakove E75 Pelince E79 Uroševac Sveti KOSOVO Gjorgji Kriva Kyustendil Dupnica Palanka Deve Bair Tabanovce Dragomance Kruma Prizren Stracin E871 BULGARIA JaÅince Staro Nagoriøane Pass Kumanovo Blace Kuklica Morina Vrbnica R Kratovo Šar Planina iver Kamenica Blagoevgrad Deløevo E851 Popova a Skopje v Cocev Kamen Deløevo Kukësi i Šapka DÅepøište r Probištip E65 K Lesnovo Koøani Tetovo Lake Alexander Titov Vrv r Sveti e Matka the Great Airport Vinica E79 (2748m) v V i Nikole ALBANIA Mt Vodno a R r r E75 r e (1066m) d Vrapøište a v a d i r r R R a Jasen i a v ca Gostivar V e ni k r l Štip Vladimirovo Berovo s Nature a Mavrovi e r g Mt Korab r Reserve Veles e Rusinovo e T v (2764m) Anovi StraÅa r i Lake Berovo B (1212m) Mt Solunska R Radoviš Mavrovo E75 (Lake Ratovo) Peshkopia Mavrovo Glava (2538m) Sandanski National Park Gradsko Maleševski Sveti Jovan Bigorski Mountains E65 Makedonski Stobi Blato Brod Negotino Dolni Veljusa Galiønik Pletvar Rosoman Strumica Novo Klosi Debar Kiøevo (990m) Kavadarci Disan Vodoøa Selo Petrich Bulqiza Mt Zlato Demir Kapija C (1422m) Vozarci Murtino Smolari Smolare MACEDONIA MACEDONIA r n Preseka R Treskavec Vataša Bansko Waterfall Kraste i D Kruševo Lake v r (1082m) Kolešino e i Monastery Garnikovo r m Tikveš Belasica Range Prilep Pološki Krnjevo Lake Monastery Ski Konjsko Novi Dojran Centar Vevøani Kozuf Range Dojran Gorna Belica KoÅuf Star Zelen Breg Dojran Struga Gevgelija E852 Ohrid (2165m) E850 Rapeš Staravina Bogorodica Dihovo Mario Resen Kafasan Bitola r Gradešnica Elbasani vo e Lake Malovište v i Kilkis E79 Prrenjasi Ohrid R Galiøica Mt Pelister (2601m) a GREECE Mt Shpat NP rn E75 Sveti Naum C (1830m) Monastery Pelister NP Kajmakøalan Lake MedÅitlija (2520m) Pogradeci Ljubojno Prespa Edessa Gramshi Gianitsa Tushëmishti Pustec E65 E86 Mt Tomorri Florina E90 (2415m) Maliqi Alexandria Thessaloniki HISTORY Macedonians largely joined Josip Broz Tito’s The historical and geographical Macedonia is communist partisans rather than the (then- divided between the Republic of Macedonia, occupying) Bulgarians. Greece and Bulgaria. The ancient Macedonian Tito honoured his wartime promises by empire developed by Phillip II and his son, granting Macedonia full republic status within Alexander the Great, spread Macedonian the new federal Yugoslavia. However, he also power to India in the 4th century BC. nationalised property and imposed com- Their glorious legacy has been claimed munism, altering Macedonia’s traditionally by both modern-day Macedonians and rural society. So, while Yugoslavia became Greeks, unsurprisingly fuelling enmity and relatively prosperous, Macedonia remained nationalist rhetoric. its poorest republic. In 168 BC, Romans conquered Macedonia; When Yugoslavia’s republics disintegrated when Rome split in 395AD, Macedonia was violently in the early 1990s, Macedonia alone assigned to the Eastern (Byzantine) half. In the separated peacefully, in 1992. However, Greece 7th century Slavic tribes arrived, and there- insisted that the new country had no right to after Macedonia passed between Byzantine, the name ‘Macedonia’, claiming that it im- Bulgarian and Serbian rule, before Ottoman plied territorial claims against Greece, which Turks conquered in 1389. has a province with the same name. Greek In 1913, after the two Balkan Wars, geo- pressure meant that when Macedonia gained graphical Macedonia was divided between UN admission in 1993, it was under the ‘pro- Greece, Bulgaria and Serbia. After WWI, the visional’ title of Former Yugoslav Republic of Serbs incorporated their share (essentially the Macedonia (FYROM). As in other 1990s-era present-day Macedonian state) into Royalist ‘transition’ countries, an oligarchical system Yugoslavia. Assimilation programs were lev- arose in Macedonia amid shady privatisations ied against the Macedonian populations in the and deliberate bankrupting of state-owned three newly-enlarged states. During WWII, firms..
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