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Home , Arch of Constantine, Capitoline Hill, Colosseum, Galleria Borghese, Janiculum, Piazza di Spagna

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There’sNo Place Like

ANCIENT AND MODERN FASCINATIONS UNFOLD ROMEIN ’S INCOMPARABLE . BY STACEY MORRIS

Clockwise from top left: to Vittorio Emanuele II; Sant’Angelo and St. ’s ; ; Bernini’s Canopy in St. Peter’s Basilica;

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OLD EY.

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Arch of Constantine and

FROM THE VANTAGE POINT of one of its seven fabled hills, Rome ated on the east side of the River, unfolds like a woven in pale beige clusters accented with which bisects Rome like an undulating serpent. The is one of the cotta. But beyond the color scheme, the Eternal City is, at its essence, a best-preserved buildings dating back to captivating blend of ancient and modern. Each morning as the sun rises (built by circa over timeworn and duomos, city buses, Fiats, cyclists and 27 B.C. as a temple to the ). After pedestrians jockey to negotiate the bustling streets of the city named being destroyed by fire, it was com- nearly more than 2,500 years ago after the ruler , who, accord- pletely rebuilt around 125 A.D., and in ing to , founded Rome with his twin brother, Remus. 609 was consecrated as a by Boniface IV. Used as a tomb since The Roman , which began with its Sistine , as well as some the , it is the final resting about 500 B.C. and eventually domi- and opulent place of painter and Italian nated much of the Mediterranean squares for good measure. While it may kings Vittorio Emanuele II and region, gave way to the Roman . seem a bit cliché to make the rounds of Umberto I, among others. After the fall of empirical Rome, the such oft-photographed and filmed loca- The Roman , set in the center Holy emerged and tions, the reality is, trodding the ground of Rome, is an intriguing swath of ruins came to most of . The where some of the most famous, and of ancient monuments, temples and empire may be long gone, but tangible infamous, figures in world history once . Built in the B.C. remnants have endured, in some cases walked is an experience that’s as fasci- on drained marshland, it’s now one of for millennia. nating as it is unforgettable. Europe’s most visited archeological Even to those who have never ven- sites. Nearby, the tured there, Rome evokes familiarity. If Ancient Wonders (Campidoglio) is considered the most only by reputation, it’s understood that With the exception of the grand sacred of Rome’s seven hills. Home to a visit to Italy’s capital will likely entail buildings in Vatican City, such as the sacrosanct Temple of (in some combination of the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, most of the city’s which and his accomplices the and Vatican City ancient ruins and religious sites are situ- locked themselves after murdering

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[ roman holiday ]

Julius ), the hill’s current main chapel of the north is home to ing the showing of the and fall attraction is the Capitoline , ’s Pietàe, and the Vatican collections, you may even encounter a showcasing ancient Roman artifacts, grottoes beneath the basilica house a runway or two. For shopping including an original 2nd-century B.C. cache of papal tombs, including that of that’s more affordable, climb the bronze of and John Paul II. For some of the most and head towards Via the head from a giant bronze statue of panoramic views of Rome, climb the . Constantine. steps to the top of the basilica’s . Perhaps nothing is more emblematic Bear in mind the basilica’s strictly Cuisine alla Romana of Rome than the Colosseum, the enforced dress code, particularly if visit- Rome is a quintessential walking city, ancient but still-standing amphitheater ing during summer months. Shorts, and any combination of shopping and where Romans once turned out in miniskirts and bare shoulders are pro- sightseeing is sure to work up an droves to witness bloody gladiatorial hibited, and entrance attendants won’t appetite. Fortunately, Rome also fights, as well as elaborate stage produc- hesitate to turn away improperly abounds with good cafés and trattorias. tions nearly two millennia ago. dressed visitors. is simple and rustic in Nowadays, it’s crowds of tourists who The nearby Vatican con- nature, centering on roasted meats and flock to the Colosseum to snap photos tain such a vast assemblage of , it’s fish with vegetable and side dish- of what remains. Locals pointing divided into a complex of pontifical es. A signature dish is Saltimbocca alla out that the hallowed site and its now- museums and galleries and boasts Romana, prosciutto-wrapped veal cut- deserted passages and tunnels serve as a everything from ancient Egyptian art lets sautéed with fresh sage in olive oil. feline hotel after sunset for the city’s and hieroglyphics to , ceram- Although the food in Italy tends to be ubiquitous stray . Next to the ics and a sea of famous . If universally appetizing, it’s still a good Colosseum, the of Constantine you’re a diehard art lover and want to rule of thumb when scouting for also cuts an impressive silhouette in the see the collection in its entirety, plan on restaurants to venture at least three Roman skyline. The towering ivory devoting two to three days. And don’t blocks away from monuments or structure carved in high- with miss the . After a 10-year famous sites to avoid the tourist menus triple portals commemorates the Battle restoration process that concluded in common on some streets. of Milvian Bridge in 312 A.D., which 1994, Michelangelo’s masterful depic- Pasta isn’t the only food for which resulted in Constantine’s conversion to tions of biblical stories are a dazzling are renowned. Some of the best . kaleidoscope of color. gelato () in the world can be It wouldn’t be a visit to Rome with- found in Rome. And java-lovers will out a stop in Vatican City, the sovereign Modern Pleasures city-state within Rome that serves as In addition to its great history and Tiber River and St. Peter’s Basilica the papal enclave. Visitors of all reli- art, Rome is also known for shopping gions will marvel at the grandeur of districts ubiquitous enough to give the St. Peter’s Square and Basilica. The most seasoned retail therapists a run for wide-open square that lies before their money. Many boutiques and gift St. Peter’s Basilica is framed by two stores can be found near the Piazza di mammoth semicircular Doric colon- , home of the famous Spanish nades topped with 140 of Steps. Probably the most celebrated saints. The sprawling space is where shopping corridor is the crowds traditionally gather for just off the base of the steps. You may and Easter services hoping not actually rack up a string of purchas- to catch glimpses of the pope. Anyone es on this swanky street, known as who has ever watched the televised Rome’s Madison Avenue, where many Midnight on Christmas Eve will top designers such as , recognize the opulent interior of and have boutiques, but window- St. Peter’s Basilica, the centerpiece of shopping is a great way to catch your which is the papal . The first second wind. And if you’re visiting dur-

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feel as though they’ve gone to heaven since Italians put a high premium on the quality control of their coffee. Whether it’s a latte or espres- so, it’s virtually impossible to get a cup. A favorite cof- fee spot for locals and tourists alike is Caffe Sant’Eustachio in Piazza Sant’Eustachio near The Pantheon. The stately gardens and parks that are found through- out Rome lend themselves to another option: dining al fres- co. The choice is made even easier with markets scattered throughout the city that offer a mouthwatering array of fresh produce, freshly baked peasant bread, aged cheeses and cured meats, such as sala- mi and soppresatta. A favorite among which you will find Doria the locals is , a hip and Pamphili, the largest public landscaped bustling neighborhood on the western park in the city. Its centerpiece is the bank of the Tiber that brims with opulent four-story villa, also called Villa open-air markets and quaint trattorias. Doria Pamphili, once owned by the Once your picnic lunch is assembled, Pamphili dynasty. The park’s sloping head to nearby Hill, on gardens are said to be Rome’s best loca-

When in Rome , the famous morning swap meet located in the Trastevere neighborhood, is one of the biggest open-air markets in Europe and the perfect place to brush up on your haggling skills. Goods include anything from antique armoires, fabrics and lamps to fresh cheese and produce. You may be in for a few hours of modern bargain hunting, but the market’s backdrop (a built in the 17th century by Pope Urban VIII to keep out invading countries) reminds you that you’re definitely not in Kansas. DINING Da Augusto—Located on Piazza de Renzi, Trastevere, this charming trattoria offers home cooking at reasonable prices. 39 06 580 3798 Agata e Romeo—This family-run ristorante situated between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill offers an elegant seasonal menu. agataeromeo.it. 39 06 446 6116 Please Note: Like many major , Rome has its share of pickpockets who prey on tourists. It’s a good idea to keep close tabs on your pocketbook and wallet anywhere, but pay particular attention when using public transportation, browsing crowded open- air markets or checking e- at Internet cafes.

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St. Peter’s Square

tion for bird watching, and the shade provided by umbrella trees makes the area an picnic spot. Back on the eastern side of the Tiber, the (situated near the ) are an oasis of quiet green, with acres of walking paths, a lake, and gardens. Near the northeast corner of the park is the , one of the city’s best museums. Whether you decide to lounge beside a garden fountain, tour duomos and museums, shop till you drop, explore ancient ruins or all of the above, there is no shortage of experiences to be had in Italy’s capital. But no matter what com- bination of sightseeing you decide upon, remember to the ride. It’s unlikely you’ll be able to fit all Rome has to offer into one visit, so there’s no point trying. Savor the beauty of each site. Linger over a plate of pasta car- bonara. Indulge in a bowl of pastel- colored gelato at an outdoor cafe. Rome isn’t going anywhere.

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