f2 rome:InFocusDE 14 16 10/30/08 12:33 PM Page 62 There’sNo Place Like ANCIENT AND MODERN FASCINATIONS UNFOLD ROMEIN ITALY’S INCOMPARABLE CAPITAL CITY. BY STACEY MORRIS Clockwise from top left: Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II; Ponte Sant’Angelo and St. Peter’s Basilica; Vatican City; Bernini’s Canopy in St. Peter’s Basilica; Piazza Venezia A A A W ORLD | 62 | N OVEMBER /DECEMBER 2008 f2 rome:InFocusDE 14 16 10/30/08 12:33 PM Page 63 [ roman holiday ] ke OLD EY. A A A W ORLD | 63 | N OVEMBER /DECEMBER 2008 f2 rome:InFocusDE 14 16 10/30/08 12:33 PM Page 64 Arch of Constantine and Colosseum FROM THE VANTAGE POINT of one of its seven fabled hills, Rome ated on the east side of the Tiber River, unfolds like a tapestry woven in pale beige clusters accented with terra which bisects Rome like an undulating serpent. The Pantheon is one of the cotta. But beyond the color scheme, the Eternal City is, at its essence, a best-preserved buildings dating back to captivating blend of ancient and modern. Each morning as the sun rises ancient Rome (built by Agrippa circa over timeworn ruins and baroque duomos, city buses, Fiats, cyclists and 27 B.C. as a temple to the gods). After pedestrians jockey to negotiate the bustling streets of the city named being destroyed by fire, it was com- nearly more than 2,500 years ago after the ruler Romulus, who, accord- pletely rebuilt around 125 A.D., and in ing to Roman mythology, founded Rome with his twin brother, Remus. 609 was consecrated as a church by Pope Boniface IV. Used as a tomb since The Roman Republic, which began with its Sistine Chapel, as well as some the Renaissance, it is the final resting about 500 B.C. and eventually domi- monuments and opulent fountain place of painter Raphael and Italian nated much of the Mediterranean squares for good measure. While it may kings Vittorio Emanuele II and region, gave way to the Roman Empire. seem a bit cliché to make the rounds of Umberto I, among others. After the fall of empirical Rome, the such oft-photographed and filmed loca- The Roman Forum, set in the center Holy Roman Empire emerged and tions, the reality is, trodding the ground of Rome, is an intriguing swath of ruins came to dominate most of Europe. The where some of the most famous, and of ancient monuments, temples and empire may be long gone, but tangible infamous, figures in world history once basilicas. Built in the 6th century B.C. remnants have endured, in some cases walked is an experience that’s as fasci- on drained marshland, it’s now one of for millennia. nating as it is unforgettable. Europe’s most visited archeological Even to those who have never ven- sites. Nearby, the Capitoline Hill tured there, Rome evokes familiarity. If Ancient Wonders (Campidoglio) is considered the most only by reputation, it’s understood that With the exception of the grand sacred of Rome’s seven hills. Home to a visit to Italy’s capital will likely entail buildings in Vatican City, such as the sacrosanct Temple of Jupiter (in some combination of the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, most of the city’s which Brutus and his accomplices the Roman Forum and Vatican City ancient ruins and religious sites are situ- locked themselves after murdering A A A W ORLD | 64 | N OVEMBER /DECEMBER 2008 f2 rome:InFocusDE 14 16 10/30/08 12:33 PM Page 65 [ roman holiday ] Julius Caesar), the hill’s current main chapel of the north aisle is home to ing the showing of the spring and fall attraction is the Capitoline Museum, Michelangelo’s Pietàe, and the Vatican collections, you may even encounter a showcasing ancient Roman artifacts, grottoes beneath the basilica house a runway model or two. For shopping including an original 2nd-century B.C. cache of papal tombs, including that of that’s more affordable, climb the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius and John Paul II. For some of the most Spanish Steps and head towards Via the head from a giant bronze statue of panoramic views of Rome, climb the Francesco Crispi. Constantine. steps to the top of the basilica’s dome. Perhaps nothing is more emblematic Bear in mind the basilica’s strictly Cuisine alla Romana of Rome than the Colosseum, the enforced dress code, particularly if visit- Rome is a quintessential walking city, ancient but still-standing amphitheater ing during summer months. Shorts, and any combination of shopping and where Romans once turned out in miniskirts and bare shoulders are pro- sightseeing is sure to work up an droves to witness bloody gladiatorial hibited, and entrance attendants won’t appetite. Fortunately, Rome also fights, as well as elaborate stage produc- hesitate to turn away improperly abounds with good cafés and trattorias. tions nearly two millennia ago. dressed visitors. Roman cuisine is simple and rustic in Nowadays, it’s crowds of tourists who The nearby Vatican Museums con- nature, centering on roasted meats and flock to the Colosseum to snap photos tain such a vast assemblage of art, it’s fish with vegetable and pasta side dish- of what remains. Locals love pointing divided into a complex of pontifical es. A signature dish is Saltimbocca alla out that the hallowed site and its now- museums and galleries and boasts Romana, prosciutto-wrapped veal cut- deserted passages and tunnels serve as a everything from ancient Egyptian art lets sautéed with fresh sage in olive oil. feline hotel after sunset for the city’s and hieroglyphics to tapestries, ceram- Although the food in Italy tends to be ubiquitous stray cats. Next to the ics and a sea of famous paintings. If universally appetizing, it’s still a good Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine you’re a diehard art lover and want to rule of thumb when scouting for also cuts an impressive silhouette in the see the collection in its entirety, plan on restaurants to venture at least three Roman skyline. The towering ivory devoting two to three days. And don’t blocks away from monuments or structure carved in high-relief with miss the Sistine Chapel. After a 10-year famous sites to avoid the tourist menus triple portals commemorates the Battle restoration process that concluded in common on some streets. of Milvian Bridge in 312 A.D., which 1994, Michelangelo’s masterful depic- Pasta isn’t the only food for which resulted in Constantine’s conversion to tions of biblical stories are a dazzling Italians are renowned. Some of the best Christianity. kaleidoscope of color. gelato (ice cream) in the world can be It wouldn’t be a visit to Rome with- found in Rome. And java-lovers will out a stop in Vatican City, the sovereign Modern Pleasures city-state within Rome that serves as In addition to its great history and Tiber River and St. Peter’s Basilica the papal enclave. Visitors of all reli- art, Rome is also known for shopping gions will marvel at the grandeur of districts ubiquitous enough to give the St. Peter’s Square and Basilica. The most seasoned retail therapists a run for wide-open square that lies before their money. Many boutiques and gift St. Peter’s Basilica is framed by two stores can be found near the Piazza di mammoth semicircular Doric colon- Spagna, home of the famous Spanish nades topped with 140 statues of Steps. Probably the most celebrated saints. The sprawling space is where shopping corridor is the Via Condotti crowds traditionally gather for just off the base of the steps. You may Christmas and Easter services hoping not actually rack up a string of purchas- to catch glimpses of the pope. Anyone es on this swanky street, known as who has ever watched the televised Rome’s Madison Avenue, where many Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve will top designers such as Versace, Armani recognize the opulent interior of and Prada have boutiques, but window- St. Peter’s Basilica, the centerpiece of shopping is a great way to catch your which is the papal altar. The first second wind. And if you’re visiting dur- A A A W ORLD | 65 | N OVEMBER /DECEMBER 2008 f2 rome:InFocusDE 14 16 10/30/08 12:33 PM Page 66 feel as though they’ve gone to heaven since Italians put a high premium on the quality control of their coffee. Whether it’s a latte or espres- so, it’s virtually impossible to get a bad cup. A favorite cof- fee spot for locals and tourists alike is Caffe Sant’Eustachio in Piazza Sant’Eustachio near The Pantheon. The stately gardens and parks that are found through- out Rome lend themselves to another option: dining al fres- co. The choice is made even easier with markets scattered throughout the city that offer a mouthwatering array of fresh produce, freshly baked peasant bread, aged cheeses and cured meats, such as sala- mi and soppresatta. A favorite among which you will find Villa Doria the locals is Trastevere, a hip and Pamphili, the largest public landscaped bustling neighborhood on the western park in the city. Its centerpiece is the bank of the Tiber that brims with opulent four-story villa, also called Villa open-air markets and quaint trattorias. Doria Pamphili, once owned by the Once your picnic lunch is assembled, Pamphili dynasty. The park’s sloping head to nearby Janiculum Hill, on gardens are said to be Rome’s best loca- When in Rome PORTA PORTESE, the famous Sunday morning swap meet located in the Trastevere neighborhood, is one of the biggest open-air markets in Europe and the perfect place to brush up on your haggling skills.