Issue No. 198 Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, February 04, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Warming Expats find Little YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 up to opportunity access to [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 winter knocks in end-of-life BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Serbia care in Serbia

Page 4 Page 7 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Decision EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Football on sale: Serbia time for - - - BulgariaNEWS facing talent exodus on top NEWS Low wages for UN job “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: players and clubs’ party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. PM Boyko Borisov financial instabil- must choose who to ity in Serbian foot- nominate as Bulgaria’s page 10 ball leagues ‘chase candidate for the next away’ young, UN Secretary-General soon or risk losing the talented football chance of securing the hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - players – weaken- a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters

position and splitting faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W ing the domestic his ruling coalition. June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, field. Maria CHERESHEVA page 5

Ivana NIKOLIĆ ith the election to Filip AVRAMOVIĆ replace UN Ban Ki-moon as UN arko Grujić, a tal- Secretary-General ented 19-year-old approaching this conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the midfielder from year,W the tension over who will be nom- After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party Belgrade’s Red inated as the Bulgarian candidate for E Star Football Club, the job has been increasing. was sold to the The reason for the behind-the- MUK’s Liverpool football club at the end scenes diplomatic fuss is that the Bal- of December for a total of €6 million, kan country holds a serious trump card Friday • June 13 2008 but will stay in Belgrade on loan to Red in the UN nomination process. Star until the end of the current season. The choice of a Secretary-General is Red Star, like most domestic football subject to an informal regional rotation clubs, is beset by serious financial prob- scheme, and Eastern Europe is the only THIS ISSUE OF lems and the club confirmed his sale region that has never presided over Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED was motivated by financial desperation. the organization. There is also a seri- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic “Red Star needs resources to pre- ous global campaign for a woman to be which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T serve this championship team, to keep Grujić was sold to Liverpool for €6 million. Photo: Facebook given the UN’s top job. a coaching staff… to provide money for Bulgaria fits both criteria. But the the current business. Transfers of pro- state with deteriorating fields and poor people train and play, getting prepared BIRN that this poll confirms Partizan’s main challenge the government is fac- fessional players are one of the legiti- attendance at the stadiums and don’t for better clubs. All the profit [for Ser- reputation for training young players. ing is the tough choice between two mate ways to raise the very necessary have the talent pool to recover. bian clubs] comes from the transfers,” “They have a well-established status indisputably strong candidates - the funds," according to a statement issued The main domestic football league, Poledica told BIRN. in Europe as a club from which quality Director-General of the United Nations by the team after the sale. Super League, rates poorly internation- The evidence backs this asser- players are coming,” Jevtović says. Educational, Scientific and Cultural Red Star is not alone in selling a ally, falling 27th out of 54 leagues on the tion. A recent poll by the Swiss Inter- This reputation for quality drives Organisation, UNESCO, Irina Bokova, promising player to shore up a club’s Union of European Football Associa- national Centre for Sports Studies, many foreign clubs to Serbia in pursuit and the Vice-President of the European ailing bottom line. Many clubs in Ser- tions, UEFA, quality rankings. CIES, shows that Belgrade’s Partizan of young football talents. The interna- Commission, Kristalina Georgieva. bia are selling talented players to stay Clubs from Serbia often find them- football club has trained the highest tional clubs are also bargain hunting in It seems that the time for the Bulgar- financially viable, including famed Bel- selves being eliminated in the qualifica- number of players present on first Serbia, as young Serbian players often ian Prime Minister Boyko Borisov to grade club Partizan. tion phases for European tournaments team squads in a total of 31 European sell for way less than footballers from make up his mind is running out, after Grujić’s sale highlights the disturbing such as the Champions and Europa leagues studied. other, more stable countries. Georgi Parvanov, the leader of the Al- trend of Serbia’s most promising foot- League. None of Serbia’s clubs are com- “The Serbian team trained 78 players “To come ‘shopping’ in Partizan is usu- ternative for Bulgarian Revival, ABV, ball players headed to foreign teams, ei- peting in Europe’s leading competitions present in the sample analysed. Thir- ally the smartest thing to do,” he added. which is part of his coalition govern- ther out of necessity or ambition. Many in the current season. teen play for Partizan, while 65 play for ment, gave the premier an ultimatum. see this talent flight as a serious threat another top division team,” the poll says. GREENER FIELDS At a press conference on January to the future of Serbian football. TALENT DRAIN Red Star ranks seventh and OFK Beo- 14th, Parvanov, who is also the former grad ranks nineteenth on that same list, But it’s not just clubs motivated by president of Bulgaria, announced that UNDERMINING THE LEAGUE Mirko Poledica, the president of the foot- making Serbia a top producer of young poor financial conditions that drives either the government nominates UN- ball players’ union ‘Independence,’ says players in Europe. the fire sale of Serbian football talent. ESCO chief Bokova immediately, or his Domestic leagues are seriously that for years now Serbia’s league serves While this study shocked many foot- Players are also motivated by better fi- centre-left ABV party may leave the threatened by this ’sports drain,’ ex- as talent mill for the transfer markets. ball lovers, some were not surprised. nancial conditions abroad. governing coalition. perts argue. Uncompetitive Serbian “Our league is nothing more than a Luka Jevtović, sports commentator at teams are now in a poor economic development league, meaning young Serbia’s public broadcaster, RTS, told Continued on page 3 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Serbian opposition faces Football on sale: uphill battle in elections Serbia facing

Failure to develop BIRN that their main problems are to con- vince apathetic citizens to vote - and lack talent different policies, of mainstream media coverage. “Two years on from the elections, none lack of cash, scant of the large Belgrade TV stations with national coverage has invited me to be a exodus media coverage guest,” he complained. “There is no debate or confrontation… and the weight and the authorities only guest on these n Serbia’s Super League, sala- abroad. Even though they leave for TV shows when there are orchestrated ries vary from around €300 to better conditions, more money and of ‘old recycled questions,” Obradović added. some €5, 000 per month. But in clubs with bigger names, they often “Without freedom of the media we can- the vast majority of clubs pay- return to Serbia. names’ are just not have free elections,” he continued. checks don’t come in time. Jevtović explains there are no Red Star stadium Marakana during a football match. Photo: dezindzer/Flickr Beside the DSS-Dveri coalition, also “Why play in Serbia for €300 if guarantees for young players leaving some of the hovering on the nationalist right of the Ithey can go abroad and earn €300, 000 Serbia, talent and enthusiasm not- He was 19 when his team OFK Bel- can achieve the impossible, just so league, claiming there is not ‘a magic ideological spectrum is the Serbian Radi- monthly or weekly,” [Leaving] is a natu- withstanding. grade sold him to ESTAC Troyes - a the players would move to the bigger saviour,’ others claim privatization obstacles facing cal Party, led by the Hague indictee Vo- ral thing considering the conditions they “There are too many variables in- move he thought would bring him clubs,” Nikodijević says. could be a remedy. jislav Šešelj. play and live in Serbia compared a devel- cluded here. Talent is not the most money and glory. However – he continues – many So far, only a handful of sports clubs the opposition At the time of the last general election oped country,” Poledica explains. important [factor]; it is second to the He spent several years in the French waste do not fulfil their dreams, even- in the country have been privatized. in 2014, the Bureau for Social Research, Saša Nikodijević, a football player least important one,” he explained. first league, but despite his initial en- tually returning to the places they The vast majority of them remains parties this spring. Birodi, published a report that claimed with international experience, says Nikodijević, a 28-year-old right full- thusiasm and success, Nikodijević thought they never would. either a state-owned ‘enterprises’ that TV reporting on the campaign gave that no one can blame young people back, is such an example. He left Bel- found himself returning to Belgrade. “If a player fails to develop himself or – like Zvezda and Partizan – they a distinct advantage to the Progressive for leaving for a better, more stable sal- grade for the money as a young man He earned more than he needed and according to the projections, it is a function as sports associations with a Party. ary but domestic football thus suffers, to play in international leagues. finally had fair training conditions, great pity for him, but the foreign club board of directors. Jerkov also said that the Democrats he explains. “Everyone seeks a way to survive but missed Serbia vibes and struggled that brought him would suffer minor Their privatization would mean Saša DRAGOJLO will have to run a door-to-door campaign “Players go [to foreign clubs], they and not to worry about their exist- adapting to French society. damage, because already in the next that clubs would have no reason because of limited financial resources develop there. Some don’t get much ence. That is not achievable here [in “I couldn’t fit in and I was over- season it would cover its losses by to sell players in order to pay debts erbia’s opposition parties and restricted media space. chances to prove themselves, and Serbia]. Our clubs don’t pay already whelmed [being] away from my fam- buying new players,” RTS’ Jevtović says Goran Ješić, from the privately face a tough challenge in the “We will have our campaign mostly in meanwhile our football deteriorates,” small wages regularly,” Nikodijević, ily,” he says. concludes. owned Inđija football club. forthcoming early parlia- the field with citizens, because we can- Nikodijević told BIRN. who now plays for Serbia’s Meta- “So I decided to come back.” “Privatization is the key for sav- mentary elections, including not expect a fair approach from a media lac football club, told BIRN. “Then a Many of his teammates who left PRIVATIZATION ing our clubs. Private owners want disunity, poor media expo- scene such as it is now,” he said. CHALLENGES ABROAD player leaves for a club where he can Belgrade at the same time also AS A KEY to bring in money to the clubs, while sure, lack of campaign funds The political movement “Enough is earn more money in a month there as failed abroad. [public] directors want to take money andS the legacy of “worn-out” names from enough – Saša Radulović”, another politi- However, not everyone who leaves he would for a year in Serbia,” he ex- “Players’ agents fill their heads with While many remain pessimistic out of public companies - like football the past, analysts warn. cal newcomer, told BIRN that lack of me- domestic field finds themselves lucky plained. all kinds of stuff, telling them they over the future of Serbia’s football clubs,” he says. The various opposition parties are also dia coverage is a huge problem, together struggling to define a political program with the lack of financial resources, since that sets them apart from the ruling Pro- this movement refuses to take donations gressive Party’s pro-European agenda. from tycoons. Progressive chief and Prime Minister “We will travel around Serbia to per- Aleksandar Vučić on January 17th re- suade people that this party-ocratic po- vealed that Serbia will hold early parlia- litical system is unsustainable,” said the mentary and local elections in the spring, movement, which conducts most of its a move that seems likely to strengthen his propaganda activities on social networks. grip on power, according to surveys. Srđan Bogosavljević sees the best Bojan Klačar, director of the Center for chance for the opposition in the current Free Elections and Democracy, CESID, political abstainers, since more than 40 told BIRN that the opposition has a prob- per cent of people in Serbia did not vote lem identifying itself in a new political at all last time. context, since Vučić and his Progressive “No matter how many people support Party have coopted the issue of Serbia’s the Progressives right now, more people EU integration. “The opposition parties are not voting at all,” Bogosavljević noted. still have not recovered from losing pow- “The problem for the opposition is that er in 2012,” he said. they also have ‘insecure’ voters. We will “They also have an identity problem see if mobilizing people to vote against since the ruling party has taken over the Democratic party rally in April 2015. Photo: Facebook Vučić can help the opposition achieve a EU discourse,” Klačar said, adding that better election result,” he concluded. the European Union broadly supports The fact that Vučić is presiding over ernment better than the previous Demo- en over the idea of EU integration, Jerkov Vučić, especially over Kosovo. these negotiations is another reminder crat-led one. responded that Vučić’s government was “You cannot speak against EU after 20 of how the once nationalistic and Euro- At the same time an equal number of not truly pro-European since it was “anti- years of worshiping it,” Klačar added. phobic politician now champions an EU- 44 per cent of people also feel their living democratic and authoritarian”. The former province of Kosovo de- orientated policy. standards are worse than they were un- Some analysts say the liberal, centrist FIGURES clared independence in 2008. Serbia has Srđan Bogosavljević, director of the IP- der the previous regime. opposition parties can only hope to fare refused to recognize it – but, under Vučić, SOS strategic marketing agency, told BIRN Aleksandra Jerkov, member of the well in the general election if they unite in A survey conducted in October Serbia has agreed to hold negotiations that another problem facing the opposi- presidency of Democratic Party, which a broad coalition. 2015 by Ipsos Strategic Market- with the authorities in Pristina under EU tion parties is the number of “old recycled held power in Serbia before the Progres- But Klačar sounded sceptical about ing suggested that the Progres- auspices on “normalizing” relations. names” in them, which cannot mobilize sives took over, told BIRN that the party whether such a wider coalition would sive Party would win 45.8 per The opposition is dominated by the many voters. accepts it will be hard to mobilize people convince many voters. cent of the vote if a new poll Democratic Party and by various splinter “Serbian politics is more about names when they are still widely held to blame “I’m not sure how much synergy was held immediately. groups that emerged out of the party fol- than the ideology. Names like Boris Tadić for Serbia’s bad economic situation. among the voters can they produce. It lowing the defeat in the election in 2012. and Čedomir Jovanović are recognizable However, she insists that her party has would also be hard to explain … why they The Socialist Party would Former Serbian President Boris Tadić in Serbia and can help them [the parties plenty of new ideas to offer. [these parties] got into a fight in the first win 10.4 per cent, the Demo- and other former senior party officials they lead] get over the 5-per-cent thresh- “We worked with a lot of experts and place,” Klačar said. cratic Party 9.4 and the Serbian have formed several new smaller parties old [to enter parliament],” Bogosavljević NGOs on our new political program, The right-wing nationalist opposition Radical Party 5.8 per cent, the of their own. said. which will be economically based,” Jerk- parties meanwhile have less of a problem survey suggested. Tadić has formed the Social Demo- “On the other hand, if people seek ov said. in creating an alternative political pro- crats, for example, Čedomir Jovanović major changes and to overthrow Vučić, “The Democrats will declare war on gram to Vučić. The coalition led by the Pro- the Liberal Democrats and Zoran those old names can be a burden since the way austerity measures are being They are firmly against EU member- gressive Party won 158 of 250 Živković the New Party. people do not trust them any longer,” implemented now, scrap bad subsidies ship and also oppose the neo-liberal eco- seats in parliament in the last Serbia opened the first negotiating Bogosavljević added. for unsuccessful state-owned companies nomic reforms of the government. election in March 2014 and chapters with the EU last December, start- A survey by the political science maga- and introduce a progressive taxation sys- Boško Obradović, head of the hard- formed a government with a ing with Chapter 32, on Financial Control, zine New Serbian Political Thought from tem,” Jerkov said, adding that the current line nationalist Dveri party, which has coalition of parties led by the and Chapter 35, on other issues, chiefly January 2016 showed that around 44 per government was doing the opposite. joined forces with the socially conserva- Socialist Party. Kosovo. cent of voters consider the current gov- Addressing claims that Vučić had tak- tive Democratic Party of Serbia, DSS, told 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Warming up to winter Belgrade Belgrade honours through the Bowie in sound eyes of a Gen Y and vision Recently, I’ve accumulated quite the collection of phone numbers. No, not from Belgrade’s most eligible bachelors, but from a particularly useful crowd.

Emma KRSTIĆ impressive. And I’d have to agree with him. From either location, Usually I don’t travel by taxi, but he says the spectacle is better when a leg injury a few weeks in winter, when there are more ago left me with a painful hobble, purple and blue hues. I needed a middleman to get me from point A to point B. Suffice to He also recommended Caruso, say, I’ve caught a lot of cabs in the an 8th-floor restaurant in the last month, and now have quite heart of Belgrade, as another top the stack of drivers’ business spot to ogle the city from. cards, which have proven more useful than any kind of travel or Another driver, Milan, quickly city guide. became a favourite for his in- sightful chat on politics and life, Ivan was one of the first to pick the fact he moonlights as a music me up. Having lived in Belgrade producer, and because he knows his whole life, he claims to be a few things about how to save a quite good at navigating short- dinar or two. For instance, if you cuts, and, it seems, at recom- fancy seeing a film, go to Tuck- mending coffee houses. That’s wood Cineplex (Kneza Milosa how I found out about Užitak (Hi- 7a), which is cheaper than other landarska 4) - a chirpy, modern cinemas, and where, I can attest, David Bowie died at age 69 on January 10th. Photo: Facebook cafe with a few different blends the seats are still comfy and the to choose from - and another of sound is good. his favourite hangouts, Pastis Filip AVRAMOVIĆ He said he hoped that the event would (Strahinjića Bana 52b). Here, a Also, if ever in need of household The Serbian show that Belgrade is “once again a city crew seems to assemble every goods, the Otvoreni tržni centar n exhibition of photographs where artists and avant-garde achieve- morning to read the newspaper, (Antifašističke borbe bb) in New capital will of Bowie, paintings that were ments are realised, the way it was in the and a crowd of after-work drink- Belgrade, known locally as just dedicated to him or inspired nineties”. ers gather each evening. He also ‘the buvljak’ (flea market), is well pay homage by his work, and reviews of Belgrade’s city manager Goran Vesić said that while the food at the worth a visit. While unlicensed A movies in which he appeared will be held said he was “proud that Belgrade will be famous Kafana Question Mark sellers flaunt their second-hand to the recently- (Kralja Petra 6) could be better goods on the sidewalk, the items at the Yugoslav Film Archives from May the first city in this part of Europe to pay th - especially for the price - their for sale inside the gates, unlike a deceased 5 until early August. tribute to David Bowie”. Turkish coffee really is good. typical flea market, are generally A concert dedicated to Bowie will also “For my generation, Bowie was part of new. And they come at much British star be staged in the Academic Park in central our upbringing and education, through Nikola was another memorable cheaper prices than most shops. Belgrade, with well-known Serbian musi- whose work we entered the world of mu- Belgraders try creative ways to beat the cold. Photo: Henrich Boll Stiftung/Flickr Cold, dreary and empty streets. Photo: stefanogiantin/Flickr driver, and knew a lot about city David Bowie cians expected to perform. sic and learned to push the limits," Vesić vistas. Visitors often go straight This smattering of recommenda- this spring with The photographs of Bowie that will go said. Freezing January Ivana NIKOLIĆ AJVAR AND On this trip I was at Dušanovacka pošta and ending at to Kalemegdan, overlooking tions is just the tip of the iceberg, on show were taken by his official pho- “I believe that this exhibition will be an RAKIJA Karaburma Student Centre. the confluence of the Danube and while I’m getting to know an exhibition tographer, Belgrade-born Brian (Bran- opportunity for younger generations to ast weekend I got fed up RULES So I went outside. It was around minus and Sava rivers, for a panoramic Belgrade’s friendly taxi drivers, islav) Rašić, who worked with the British get familiar with his work and influence,” days are the worst: look at Belgrade’s surroundings, it seems they’re getting to know with this sodden winter. I literally freezing three degrees, gusty wind notwithstand- musician from 1983 until one of his last- he added. he explained. (“It’s common me too. Recently I hailed a taxi of photographs found myself doing noth- First stop on ing. But I was determined to beat winter ever live appearances at a concert by Da- Bowie was known as a musical and nothing but cold despite my ‘heavy for young people, couples, to on the street instead of calling ing except frigidly trudg- my fever quest: and really, really warm myself up with watch the sunset there.”) But, he one of my ‘regulars’ and was and paintings vid Gilmour of Pink Floyd in 2006. stylistic innovator from the 1960s right puddles, dreary ing between working and some traditional, armament.’ some brisk exercise, no matter how cold believes the view from Brankov greeted with: “How’s your leg?” “I believe that in this way we are replay- up until his death this month. sleeping, back and forth and not-so traditional, spicy food to get and freezing. most, where the city skyline – old Maybe it’s time to start walking plus a tribute ing Bowie for what he gave, not only to His critically-acclaimed final album, grey days and Lin the cold. Life was becoming a slushy my blood running faster. As it happens, I Street by street and not so many peo- and new – is on full show is more again. music but in film and culture in general,” “Blackstar”, was released on January drudge. I had the blues and the depress- was invited to a dinner at my best friend’s The snowflakes ple around – completely understandable concert. said one of the organisers of the tribute, 8th, just two days before he lost his fight staying ‘locked ing winter, sporadic rain and short grey Velja’s place on Saturday evening. Smoked because of the cold. I walked fast and Sergej Trifunović. against liver cancer at the age of 69. days were to blame for it. salmon with rice and ‘a special sauce’ – as piling up on my managed to reach my ending point in 40 up’ in a boring flat. Thus, early Saturday morning, while it I was told – was on the menu, as well as face and turned minutes and, truth be told, I did warm up was still raining cats and dogs, I decided that ‘some homemade wild pears rakija,’ Ser- a little bit. ORDER DELIVERY TO Here are the best I needed to warm up to beat the winter dol- bia’s most famous fruit brandy. But, a half an hour later, after a warm YOUR DOOR drums. Finding ways to stoke my internal Awesome, I said to myself, the menu me into a huge drink with my brother, I walked out of the ways I found to Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 engines and making my blood boil would fits perfectly into my ‘ways to warm up moving winter Karabruma Student Centre. To my com- [email protected] shake off those winter chills for sure! experiment.’ plete surprise, the weather had complet- Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ warm up. So I set off to find creative ways to I was quite cold by the time I made it to ed changed for the worse. It was snowing page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight raise my body temperature in the dead dinner, after having spent the whole day tree. and even colder than before. But I had to of winter to stave off the gloomy dol- outdoors, walking and window-shopping finish off the small experiment of mine. drums. with friends. I was thrilled when Velja flavor is amazing – just what you need As I walked the same route back home, welcomed us in with a glass of rakija ‘to in cold January days when the outside I had a feeling that the faster I moved the SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL warm us up a bit.’ For those who haven’t temperature reaches almost minus 6 heavier it snowed. On this trip I was liter- Address: Višnjićeva 10 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE tried rakija yet, it is a strong, spicy fruit degrees. ally freezing despite my ‘heavy arma- Address: Smetanina 12 brandy traditionally served as a welcome The spicy sauce, on top of the rakija, ment.’ The snowflakes piling up on my MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR GYM DR FEELGOOD ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ to guests. But more important, it is also left me feeling warm from the inside, and face and turned me into a huge moving Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 Address: Kolarčeva 3 RADISSON BLU OLD ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” used to warm up. for a few hours over dinner, I forgot about winter tree. MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE RESTURANT KOVAČ And it worked: after two glasses drunk how cold it was outside. “Oh great. Now my entire face is freez- HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA FORCED2THINK RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 modern ethno restaurant bottoms up, the cold of the day slid away ing.” Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: Požeška 42 Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade and my cheeks were rosy. WALKING TOUR - FAILED By the time I reached home, I was But rakija was not the only fiery fare numb with cold and pissed. “Why did I do HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV INTERGALACTIC DINNER CAFE CAFFELOUNGE that day. Velja also served salmon with On Sunday morning, after a night this to myself?” Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Vase Pelagića 48 a zesty ajvar and ljutenica sauce. You of eating and drinking, I decided to After this frozen experiment, I realized Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar might ask what for God’s sake are these try something completely different to there was probably no real way for me to CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Mihajla Pupina 85A INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE things? Well, ajvar is a creamy, smoky stoke my body heat- fast walking. I pre- feel physically warm, no matter what I did. Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Temišvarska 19 spread made with roasted peppers pared a route and a winter uniform: my Winter in Belgrade is just too inescapable. Address: Skadarska 34 MIXER HOUSE and eggplant with a hint of peppery thickest trousers, a pair of warm boots, But, I did find two ways to warm my KOLARAC Address: Karađorđeva 46 KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 heat while ljutenica is a much stronger, snug long coat and a huge scarf around spirit: the company of friends and family Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Cara Lazara 10 www.restorankovac.com spicier version of ajvar. But the overall my neck. I decided to go 3km, starting and nestling deep into my warm bed. Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Theatre returns to Zagreb after 30 years The Yugoslav Drama Theatre, JDP, will be staging a performance at the Croatian Expats find opportunity National Theatre in Zagreb Briton’s long walk on January 22nd - for the first time in 30 years, Belgrade’s theatre announced on January 20th. French playwright Moliere’s last piece, “The in brief Belgrade knocks in Serbia Imaginary Invalid,” will be into Serbia’s heart on show. The last time the JDP played in Zagreb was in 1986. Relations between the the Heart of a Nation” along with a com- two theatres were restored panion photo book. If the campaign suc- last June when the Croatian ceeds, it will allow him to publish a full troupe played for audiences in Belgrade. The JDP stated run of “Walk Serbia” in both English and that this was the result of Serbian. successful cooperation The goal of the book is “to give the between the two cultural reader a better, more truthful insight into institutions. Serbia, to tell a good old-fashioned ad- Capital buys new venture story and perhaps even inspire electric buses you to visit Serbia or go on an adventure yourself,” the fundraising campaign web- The Serbian capital is to get site explains. five modern electric buses Shannon resolved to be an adventurer in the forthcoming months, early on in life. His father was in Britain’s Belgrade City authorities Royal Navy and often regaled the young announced. According to Željko Milković, the director Kevin with tales of exotic lands and mys- of Public Transportation, the terious peoples. buses cost about €450,000 Most of the world had already been but “travel costs are eight to discovered by the time he was able to ten times lower than with the venture off on his own. But, he adopted ordinary buses. “The life of a unique perspective on adventuring to this bus is about 12 years… so we will pay off the bus motivate himself. sometime after the fifth year,” “Adventuring is about exploring the Milković said. unknown and stepping out of your com- fort zone. Everywhere has already been Work starts on new explored but there are still countless Sava bridge human stories to encounter,” Shannon Construction of a second says. bridge over the Sava River He tries to have an adventure every near the Belgrade settlement year or so. He owns a web design busi- of Ostružnica began on ness that allows him the freedom to ven- th January 19 . According ture out into the greater world. But not to the city authorities, the construction should be every adventure is successful. completed by March 2018. He started his adventuring with a The bridge is supposed to failed “circumnavigation of the globe be part of the bypass around using only human and power” to high- Belgrade. The overall price of light global environmental and conser- the project is €3.57 billion. vation issues. His plan was disrupted It will be financed from the European Investment Bank. by political upheaval and violence in Prime Minister Aleksandar the Middle East and he was forced to Vučić attended the inaugural turn around after a year. But it was on celebration, saying the project this trip that he first encountered Ser- was important “because better British adventurer Kevin Shannon with the first Serbian family he encountered while traveling through Serbia in 2010. Photo: Courtesy of Kevin Shannon bia, an experience that has shaped his infrastructure is a condiiton for work since. the arrival of new investors.” During that trip and the two subse- Opposition MP seeks Drew ADAMEK “I fell in love with the country right quent walks in 2013, Shannon began col- end to waterfront law British author away. Every person, every family I met lecting the material for “Walk Serbia” and t took Kevin Shannon only one was exactly the same: completely gener- the companion photo book. They are a Balša Božović, an MP from and adventurer kilometre before he found his ous in a way I’ve never experienced any- collection of his experiences, profiles of the opposition Democratic first Serbian friend. The young where else,” Shannon says. people he met in Serbia and challenges Party handed parliament a Kevin Shannon British adventurer was bicycling In 2013, Shannon expanded his explo- he faced, interspersed with short seg- draft law about scrapping the lex specialis on the is raising money across Europe in 2010 and had ration and embarked on an ambitious ments on Serbian history, cuisine and Belgrade Waterfront project on just crossed the Serbian border plan to walk across Serbia twice. In Feb- culture. January 20th. Božović called forI the first time when a running man ruary that year, he walked north to south Shannon has finished writing the book to publish a Bilal Najjar found unexpected economic opportunities in Belgrade after moving here from Beirut. Photo: Courtesy of Bilal Najjar the project “a scam in which flagged him down. and in July he returned to walk the length and has designed the accompanying someone can build a shopping book about his Unsure of what to expect from a yell- of the country from south to north. In all, photobook and launched the Kickstarter mall, hotel or restaurant for ing stranger in Serbia, a country he only he walked 900km through Serbia over campaign to raise the money to publish a themselves, all in the name knew from war reporting and stereo- ten weeks, staying with strangers, tak- full run. As of this article’s publication, he Drew ADAMEK migration, particularly young Serbs an EU project. They immediately took experience in entry-level jobs can be of public interest.” Parliament 900km walk Meet the adopted the lex specialis, a types, Shannon was pleasantly surprised ing photos and discovering a side of the is over halfway towards his goal of raising leaving the country, a number of for- to the capital’s easy-going café culture prohibitively expensive. Juggling in- law enabling the expropriation through Serbia. when the man invited him for a beer. country seldom covered in the media. £6,500. The fundraising campaign ends foreigners ilal Najjar feared he eigners are now looking to Serbia as and outdoor lifestyle but also discov- ternships and holding down part-time of private and urban land to “I ended up staying with that man and The trek also gave him an idea. on February 8th. was coming to a coun- a place to accomplish their long-term ered a benefit they had not expected. jobs while coping with rising housing, start the Waterfront, in April his family for three days, as long as I had “It dawned on me that not many peo- This is not the only Serbia-related pro- bucking the try with a far worse economic goals. “Life is getting tougher in London transport and living costs can stifle ca- 2015. Waterfront plans include planned on being in Serbia,” Shannon re- ple knew about Serbia outside of the ject that Shannon has in mind. While not economy than the one Some young, middle class profes- and we weren’t able to make the kinds reer ambitions. the construction of residential calls. wars and I wanted to show how great wanting to give away any secrets about trend by he left behind when sionals have moved to avoid financial of progress we wanted. We spent too “It’s strangely expensive to advance and office buildings, the Frequent encounters with people who Serbia is to the rest of the world,” Shan- his future plans, once the books are pub- he moved to Belgrade pressures at home, such as wage stag- much time and money on transport, one’s career in London,” says Cath- largest shopping mall in the Balkans, a hotel, an opera invited him into their homes for long non says. lished there will be more adventures in building their fromB Beirut in 2013 to study. Before nation, the rising cost of living, debt ac- on housing and on necessities. Here, erine Tyack, 24. She came to Belgrade house and a skyscraper. The stays turned his initial plan of simply bik- Now, he is launching an online fun- Serbia. arriving in Serbia, he imagined a coun- cumulation and higher barriers to em- we were able to start building up for for an internship with the Ministry of project has drawn opposition ing through Serbia over three days into a draising campaign to publish a book “This country has become a big part of careers and try at war, an economy in tatters and ployment. In Serbia, they hope they going home,” says Leavold. “For us, it’s Tourism after completing a master’s from a section of the public month-long stay. That first encounter ig- chronicling his travels and experiences, my life and I want to do as much as possi- very little chance of financial success. can buy homes, save for the future the best of both worlds because we degree in Slavonic Studies at Oxford partly over its transparency. nited a deep love for Serbia and its people. called “Walk Serbia: On Foot to Discover ble to push Serbia in a good light,” he says. future financial He planned on leaving as soon as his and launch careers. love it here, we love our life here but University. She stayed on in Belgrade schooling was done. While economic migration into we are also able to plan and save for a after her internship to start work at a security in To his surprise, Najjar found Serbia Serbia is certainly not a widespread life back home.” local IT start up as a quality assurance to be a country with the kind of econ- trend, it is no secret that the Balkans in While Belgrade’s cost of living is manager. Belgrade. omy that would allow him to build a general offer a lower cost of living for not low for most people living here, She earns roughly the average Ser- solid financial future for himself. After foreigners. What is new is that some many foreigners benefit from earning bian monthly salary and does not f you have never visited Ružica Church in Kalemegdan, Belgrade’s fortress, this could be the perfect time to do so. Overlooking the Sava river and tucked between the garrison’s finishing school, he found work as a come to Serbia to pursue middle-class western-level wages through telecom- have an extravagant lifestyle but still towers, it paints a particularly magical picture during winter when its features from the community manager for an IT compa- aspirations no longer easily available muting or employment with foreign says working in Belgrade is an advan- Middle Ages are emphasised by the cold weather and snow. Ružica Church, also called ny in Belgrade and now foresees a life to them at home. companies. With salaries consider- tage for her. Little Rose Church, has had a turbulent history though. The original structure was largely here that he cannot imagine in Beirut. ably higher than the average Serbian “I have to be careful with my money demolishedI in 1521 by the invading Ottoman Turks, but was later rebuilt, housing a gunpowder “Here I can save money, I can have ‘BEST OF BOTH WORLDS’ wage, this allows them more flexibil- here [and] still watch what I spend machine in the 18th century before being converted into a military church in the following century. future plans. If I went back home I ity and freedom to pursue economic but by coming to Serbia, I was able During the First World War, the church also suffered significantly, and had to wait until 1925 to be would be broke at the end of the month, “We had to leave London to be able goals not available to others. to progress my career in a way that I restored; Kosta Todorović carved the iconostasis, Rafailo Momčilović painted the icons, and the but here I can save for a house, for the to buy back in,” says business and For some foreigners, Belgrade is a wouldn’t be able to in London,” says walls were covered by works of Russian artist, Andrej Bicenko. Apart from merely paying visiting, it things that I want in the future,” he says. performance coach James Leavold. more affordable option when starting Tyack. is also possible to get married here! Najjar is not alone. While public at- He moved to Belgrade with his wife a career. In a city like London, trying “I don’t get why other people don’t

Hidden Belgrade tention remains focused on outward Genevieve in autumn 2014 to work for to survive financially while gaining do what I am doing.” 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Decision time for Bulgaria on top UN job

respondents, while 62 per cent named Kristalina Georgieva as qualified. Bokova’s name was also mentioned in two recent political scandals. In De- cember 2015, the German newspaper Die Welt reported that she had claimed in her official biography that she was the Bulgarian foreign minister in the late 1990s, when in reality she was only an the acting foreign minister for a few months. She explained to the newspa- per that there was a mistake in her CV, and corrected the information on the organization’s website. Last week the Bulgarian investigative website Bivol.bg reported that recently Bokova and her family had acquired apartments in Manhattan worth more than $3 million. The Bulgarian diplo- mat admitted the purchases, saying that they were possible because of her and her husband’s high salaries, as they both have senior-level international po- sitions. Despite the controversies over her background, Bokova has one major advantage for the UN post over her Bulgarian rival Georgieva - the poten- tial support of Moscow. A Russian veto over Georgieva’s nomination seems a possible scenario, concerning her top position in the European Commission, which imposed sanctions on Russia over the conflict in Ukraine. On the other hand, Georgieva has a greater chance of winning support at home, as she has close ties to the lead- ing political party, GERB. Bansko Is located a two-hour drive from Bulgaria’s capital, Sofia. Photo: banskoski.com Georgieva, a 62-year-old former World Bank official, also enjoys the sympathies of the majority of the per- manent UN staff in New York due to her reputation as a dynamic and qualified technocrat, the Financial Times report- Burn off the calories in the snow ed on January 14th. Before becoming Vice-President of the European Commission and a Com- BANSKO, BULGARIA The first run is for enthusiasts want- Besides skiing, you can also go snow- the assistance of professional instructors missioner for the EU Budgetary affairs, The ski season is ing to experience sliding first on the boarding and paragliding, and you and equipment you can rent at the resort. Georgieva was the EU Commissioner Located a two-hour drive from Bul- white runs – something only a few can don’t have to bring your own equip- All you need to bring is your courage. for Humanitarian Aid, another asset on underway and garia’s capital, Sofia, and a six-hour normally afford. ment because you can rent it at the You can also go bob rail sliding, which her CV in the competition for the UN drive from Belgrade, the southwestern During the entire season, on resort. Daily ski passes for lifts up the is a rollercoaster experience, but this Secretary-General. winter sports town of Bansko is one of the most popu- Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays mountain cost around €20 for adults is available mostly in the summer, al- Unlike Bokova, who has been lead- lar ski resorts in the Balkans. you’ll have the privilege of going first and €10 for children. Seasonal passes though it may be available sometimes ing an active PR campaign for her own enthusiasts may At an elevation of around 1,000 me- on the perfectly groomed ski runs of cost around €280. during the winter season. nomination since 2014, Georgieva hasn’t ters, Bansko offers activities for eve- Bansko Ski Centre for around €30 for Bjelašnica also offers medical and Besides bob rail sliding, you can go publicly expressed such ambitions. have a hard time ryone wishing to spend time in the adults and around €20 for children spa centres, restaurants and ski schools zip lining as well. Prices for bob rail Irina Bokova. Photo: UNESCO “I’m very honoured for my name to snowy mountains. Bulgaria's share of under 12. at a resort that is certainly family ori- sliding are around €4 and for zip lining be mentioned but I have a job that takes choosing a resort the European winter tourism industry Bansko hosted the FIS World Cup al- ented. around €2. You can also buy a fun-park he Ministry of For- “Bulgaria will announce its official largest Party up my full attention and I’m doing it. My is steadily rising and Bansko increas- pine ski races for women in 2009 in package that will cover all of these ser- eign Affairs has candidate at the moment when the newspaper This is a matter philosophy in life has always been to do - so here are ingly competes with resorts in France two downhills and a super G. It was KOPAONIK, SERBIA vices for a price around €8 for adults to stop procras- conditions are most appropriate,” Min- in the coun- the job I have,” she told the Politico web- and Switzerland due to its competitive also the first stop in the men’s circuit and €5 for children. tinating, twisting istry of Foreign Affairs spokesperson try, Rabot- of tactics and site in November. Belgrade Insight’s costs and high quality. for the super combined and slalom in Located 270 kilometres, or a three- Like Bjelašnica, Kopaonik also of- and turning and Betina Zhoteva told BIRN. nichesko Considering the growing pressure top tips. A child-friendly policy encourages 2011. and-a-half hour drive, from Belgrade, fers paragliding with instructors and to immediately “This is a matter of tactics and high delo. Edu- high diplomacy. on national level and the increased in- families to visit Bansko, so kids can Kopaonik is the biggest mountain in equipment included for an adrenaline- “Tput forward the letter, nominating Irina diplomacy. We should not speculate cated in the ternational interest, it seems clear that start falling in love with winter sports at BJELAŠNICA, BOSNIA AND Serbia and the most popular ski resort packed experience. Bokova for Secretary-General of the UN,” about names, but about the qualities of former Soviet Union and the US, she We should not the time for the Bulgarian government Filip AVRAMOVIĆ an early age. HERZEGOVINA in the country. Daily ski passes for adults are around Parvanov said. the candidates,” she added. has lengthy diplomatic and parliamen- to put forward its UN nomination has Prices for a one-day pass for adults The highest peak is around 2,000 €20, while the price for children is He warned that if the ‘wrong’ deci- She stressed that the ministry was tary experience and speaks English, speculate about come. ow the first month of are around €25, while the price for chil- Bjelašnica mountain lies in central meters and the mountain is rich in around €15. Seasonal ski passes for sion was made, it could lead to “drastic not running late with its decision. French, Spanish and Russian fluently. “The first key to a successful cam- 2016 is passing and dren is €1. Bosnia and Herzegovina, southwest of wildlife. adults are around €520 and for chil- decisions concerning our participation But Bulgarian diplomatic sources Bokova became the first woman to paign of this kind is speed and in this we are back on track, Seasonal passes for adults cost the capital Sarajevo and around a five- Kopaonik is also home to around 50 dren around €290. in governance”. explained to BIRN that the government head UNESCO and was re-elected for a names, but about regard, Bulgaria is already running late. you may be thinking around €770 while for kids it is only and-a-half hour drive from Belgrade. kilometres of ski slopes, six of which Accommodation costs are around Bokova was originally nominated has neither dismissed nor confirmed second mandate in 2013. The responsibility lies with the prime of ways to burn off the around €50. The mountain was named after its tall- meet FIS, international ski federation, €60 for family rooms but prices vary, for the job back in 2014 by the Socialist- Bokova’s nomination yet because of On January 7th, the US magazine Dip- the qualities of minister, who has to take this decision,” calories you gained Like every other ski resort, Bansko of- est peak located at around 2,070 me- standards. depending on the offer. What is guar- led coalition government of Plamen concerns expressed about her ties to lomatic Courier put Bokova at the top Solomon Passy, a former foreign min- Nover Christmas and New Year. fers ski slopes for amateurs and experts ters. It was one of the main mountain The ski centre is located at around 1, anteed is the friendly and professional Oresharski, which was forced to resign the former Bulgarian Communist Party. of its ranking of the potential Eastern the candidates.” ister of Bulgaria and chairman of the Skiing, ice-skating and other winter alike. venues in the 1984 Sarajevo winter 700 meters and has 24 ski lifts. The “ski- attitude of the staff in the resort hotels. shortly afterwards, following a year of According to a foreign ministry offi- European candidates for Secretary- OSCE, told BIRN. thrills are some of the best options. Their internet presentation lets you Olympics. to-door” policy means all of the slopes Kopaonik is also home to interna- huge street protests. cial, who asked to remain anonymous, General, based on criteria such as Passy believes that Bulgaria still has From Bulgaria’s upmarket Bansko re- pick out the slope that suits you, and Bjelašnica, like Bansko, offers skiing are only around 10 meters from the tional and ethno restaurants, coffee In January 2015, the new centre- both of the centre-right parties in the diplomatic record, proven leadership the chance to unite Eastern Europe be- sort to Bosnia 1984 Winter Olympic you can also check on weather condi- for everyone. On their internet site, centre. shops and nightclubs. right government, led by Borisov, an- governing coalition, GERB and the skills and experience at the UN. Betina Zhoteva, hind its candidate and win the top UN resort at Bjelašnica and Serbia’s own tions when deciding where to ski. and with instructors at the mountain, Besides the slopes for Alpine skiing, Whether you want to take your family nounced its support for Bokova. How- Reformist Bloc, are against putting for- However, she lacks domestic sup- Ministry of Foreign post. favourite, Kopaonik, the Balkans has Bansko also offers biathlon events, you can pick a slope that suits you Kopaonik offers 12 kilometres of Nordic to experience winter sports and activi- ever, the Foreign Ministry still hasn’t ward a candidate with any connection port. In a nationwide opinion poll car- Affairs “But if we miss this chance, the pos- much to offer ski fans. free style skiing, restaurants located best. Some of the slopes also offer skiing slopes. ties or are an adrenaline junky looking officially responded to the UN’s call to the former communist elite. ried out by the local polling agency sibility of Bulgaria failing the whole Check the most suitable options, right on the slopes and probably the night skiing and there will always be Alpinism, one of the most dangerous for adventure, the top Balkan winter re- for a nomination, which it received a Bokova is the daughter of Georgi Bok- Alpha Research, she was named as a of Eastern Europe will be great,” he pack your things, take at least five days most exciting offer of all, called “The snow since the resort has snow can- and exciting mountain climbing activi- sorts offer an unforgettable experience month ago. ov, a top-level communist who ran the qualified candidate by 44 per cent of said. off and enjoy the winter idyll. first run”. nons as well. ties, is also available at Kopaonik with with prices to suit everyone’s pocket. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Brothers Teofilović Opera, Ballet at Sava Centre and Classical The Brothers Teofilović, Balkan rd music icons and legendary pur- SATURDAY JANUARY 23 veyors of ancient Serbian vocal Opera: La Traviata, The National Theatre, music, will hold their first concert Arts in brief Francuska 1, 7:30pm Il Mondo di Piazzolla – RTS Symphonic of the year at Sava Centre to Orchestra and Pier Carlo Sacco, Ilija M. promote a brand new album. As Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm anyone who has seen them in SUNDAY JANUARY 24th concert knows, their shows are Students of Đorđe Nešić opera studio, Ilija an otherworldly, almost spiritual M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, experience. The concert will be 11am held in the main hall of Sava Ballet: The Nutcracker, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 12pm Centre on February 8th. Tickets are eight euros. MONDAY JANUARY 25th Opera: Aida, The National Theatre, Serbia’s best Beauty Two film fests Francuska 1, 7pm The North<->South Trio, Belgrade Cultural and the Beast pro- Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm duction back for Belgrade’s cinema TUESDAY JANUARY 26th

This production of Beauty and the Presentation of young choreographers, Beast, starring Mirka Vasiljević goers The National Theatre Francuska 1, 8:30pm as the beauty and Viktor Savić th Film “One More Tango” will be shown during the Magnificent 7 fest. Photo: magnificent7festival.org WEDNESDAY JANUARY 27 as the beast, is one of the most popular music theatre shows of As for the Magnificent Seven, the Il Belpaese string quartet, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm its kind. It’s a huge production, The 2016 Serbian film season festival plans once again to showcase featuring 3D animated visuals, the best seven European documentary THURSDAY JANUARY 28th movies of last year. Screenings will be very engaging audio and visual wastes no time getting under way, Opera: La Boheme, The National Theatre, effects, fantastically choreo- held at the Sava Centre between Janu- Francuska 1, 7:30pm th th graphed dancing and lots of great with two international festivals ary 29 and February 4 . Milorad Feodorović, piano, Belgrade City According to festival curator Hall, Dragoslava Jovanovića 2, 8pm tunes. Tickets cost between €5 Bandoneon and Strings, Ilija M. Kolarac Little access to Dane Tue Steen Muller: “2015 (has) not and €10. The show is January scheduled for late January and Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm th been a good year for the world we live 24 at Sava Centre. th early February. in,” a year filled with images of “war, FRIDAY JANUARY 29

conflicts, natural disasters.” Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with Dali graphics arrive Muller notes that while news reports Uroš Lajović – conductor and Olga Kern – piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, end-of-life care in Belgrade David GALIĆ depict these events by showing noth- Studentski Trg 5, 8pm ‘New talent, new technologies’ is the ing but suffering on the screen, docu- Belgrade art fans will get to see elgrade plays host to two theme for Film and Chips 2016. It's pret- mentary filmmaking should strive to SATURDAY JANUARY 30th over 240 graphic sketches from film festivals in the com- ty easy to infer from the slogan that this do the exact opposite. Opera: Carmen, The National Theatre, legendary surrealist Salvador Dali ing weeks, the first being year's festival is going to be all about One documentary being shown that Francuska 1, 7:30pm in Serbia at the Heritage House Belgrade. the British Film Festival, young, up and coming movie makers is very relevant to world events of 2015 affectionately titled Film and the interesting technological inno- is Jakob Brossmann’s Lampedusa in Belhospice nurse Ivana Lapadatović visits Snezana Erić, who is battling lung and uterine cancer and has been a Belhospice patient for 8 months. Photo: Matt Lutton The display includes pieces from SUNDAY JANUARY 31st some of his largest opuses, such and Chips. Following vations that many are using in the film- Winter. According to Muller, the film as “The Divine Comedy” and lastB year’s hugely successful inaugural making process. covers the refugee crisis in Europe to- Giorgio Mandolesi – fagot, Calogero event, the British Council decided to One of the most interesting guests at- day “in a contextual, non-sensational, Palermo – clarinet, Nataša Šarčević - piano, miliations and excruciating pain. It ten without access to legal and medical often struggling with overwhelming ties do not have specific programmes “Dali’s Horses.” The works will Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg give the festival another outing in 2016. tending the festival will be Mike McGee, non-dramatic and respectful way”. Belhospice, took doctors six painful months to find information, proper drugs or financial stress and grief when a loved one is dy- to educate new doctors in palliative be on display until March 27th 5, 11am The second festival is probably a bit co-founder of Framestore studios. His When asked what the overarching Italian opera stars: Amarilli Nizza, Rosanda a stomach tumour, which had, by then, support. ing of cancer. care. and the gallery is open every day more familiar to film fans in Belgrade; company was responsible for the Oscar- theme of this year’s festival is, Muller Rinaldi, Lorenzo Decaro, Stefano Meo, RTS Serbia’s only already metastasized throughout her Serbia is not unique. Throughout "We always include the family be- Belhospice is working with legis- from 10am to 8pm but Monday. Symphonic Orchestra and Choir, Ilija M. the Magnificent Seven documentary winning effects in the movie Gravity. says that all seven of the documenta- Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm lungs, colon and uterus. the world, there is very little public, or cause it is a unit of care. Cancer never lators and the Ministry of Health to film festival. This year’s event marks the Obviously, he will have a lot to say about ries are “based on a respect for the in- palliative care Erić says her treatment was com- institutional, awareness of what pallia- affects just patients, it affects families draft a licensing law for palliative care Pianist Milorad 12th anniversary of this festival. the use of new technologies in cinema. dividual and his/her life, and solidarity MONDAY FEBRUARY 1st plicated and delayed by bureaucratic tive care is and who needs it. The World too,” says Dr Milićević. specialists and to raise financial sup- Feodorović live in Film and Chips takes place until His speaking engagement is one of the with the protagonists”. infighting between different oncology Health Organization calls the global Biljana Lukić knows the value of Bel- port but little official progress has been Leana Nikolov – violin, Jovana Nikolov charity, is striving concert January 24th at Dom Omladine. The many events planned as part of the in- Tickets for Film and Chips screen- – piano, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg departments over which cancer was lack of palliative care “an urgent hu- hospice’s help first hand. Recently, her made. festival is designed to give Serbian audi- teresting side programme that will ac- ings cost about €2 and are available Republike 5, 8pm to ensure that the primary problem. Eventually, doc- manitarian need”. father, a retired military officer with ter- Together with the Ministry of Health ences a chance to see some of the best company film screenings this year. via the Dom Omladine box office. Visit Vuk Musterović – piano, Belgrade Cultural tors declared her cancer too advanced Belhospice is trying to meet that minal liver cancer, fell out of bed at 3am and the European Union, Belhospice Immensely talented and well- Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm respected Serbian pianist Milorad movies from Great Britain that might However, the British Council has an- the website for more info: www.british- terminally-ill for treatment and sent her home to die. need in Belgrade. and was too weak to get himself up. was involved in a programme from nd Feodorović will be performing not have been on anyone's radar oth- nounced that even though the festival council.rs/en/filmandchips TUESDAY FEBRUARY 2 Forced to retire, she lost her home Dr Nataša Milićević gave up a suc- Biljana took her handicapped son with 2011 to 2014 that trained more than erwise. Organisers promise viewings of is meant to celebrate contemporary Magnificent Seven film tickets cost and now lives on a pension that cessful career in the National Institute her as she raced to help her father back 1,000 health care professionals and es- in the formal hall of the Serbian Ballet: Copelia, The National Theatre, patients and their Parliament on January 28th. Fans some of the best and most interesting British cinema, it is still international just over €3 each and there will be Eng- Francuska 1, 7:30pm amounts to half of what she earned as of Oncology to found Belhospice in into bed. She spent a sleepless night at tablished some palliative care beds in British films, many of which have been in nature and will also be welcoming lish and Serbian subtitles for all movies families are not a professor of Serbian language and 2004. After attending a course on pal- his bedside. hospitals throughout Serbia. However, of classical music will be treated rd featured at prestigious film festivals guests from the cinema world from that are not in either of those languages. WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 3 literature. She has no friends or family liative care in Oxford, England, in 1991, Bleary-eyed and weak, she was in the number of beds available falls far to his virtuoso renditions of Cho- around the world, including Cannes countries such as Russia, Turkey and Visit the website for more info: www. Opera: Nabucco, The National Theatre, left to face death to help with even the most minor tasks she made a decision to bring palliative Belhospice’s offices the next morning short of the national need. pin pieces. Entrance will be free. and Berlin. Israel. magnificent7festival.org Francuska 1, 7:30pm and when living with terminal cancer, care to Serbia but the wars of the 1990s to update the medical team on his con- Belhospice is in the early stages of alone. everything is a major effort. delayed that dream by a decade. dition before work. She recalls her relief opening Serbia’s first, fully-dedicated “I’m going through all kinds of crises "That course changed my attitude to- when Belhospice began helping her inpatient hospice facility. In July, they about my appearance, my health, my wards cancer illness, cancer treatment, and her father. purchased a property in Belgrade and Drew ADAMEK safety and my personality,” says Erić. life, death and dying. Since then, I really “You’re not alone anymore. You feel are launching a fundraising campaign “Having someone [like Belhospice] help understand that we must know when it like someone cares,” she says. “They to convert it. When completed, the fa- ospice care nurse me for free is magical.” is enough with the treatment, when we know that he’s not dead yet, that he’s cility will accommodate 500 patients Ivana Lapadatović For terminal cancer patients like Erić, have to stop and turn to the patients and still alive.” per year. is surprised to see Belhospice is a lifeline of compassion his problems,” says Dr Milićević, the only While treating patients is Belhos- “It’s not enough to meet the need, Snežana Erić smiling and comfort in the sea of indignity, suf- licensed palliative care specialist in Serbia. pice’s main mission, they are also try- even in Belgrade, but we hope the and answering her fering and confusion that is cancer. Palliative, or hospice, care aims to ing to change attitudes about pallia- new facility will serve as a model for door; the last time make cancer patients comfortable and tive medicine by providing education, what is possible in other cities,” says Dr HLapadatović visited, she found the AGEING POPULATION cope with the symptoms of cancer rath- information and lobbying for hospice Milićević. 55-year-old Snežana bedridden for fifty er than cure the disease. care in Serbia. Belhospice holds educa- No matter what happens with pal- hours straight, so wracked with cancer It is a lifeline that more and more From the beginning, all Belhospice’s tional seminars for patients and fami- liative care provision at a national she was unable to stand, feed, or clothe Serbs will need as the limited resources services are free for patients and their lies, as well as training programmes for level in Serbia, Belhospice and nurse herself. of the national medical system strains work is supported entirely by dona- doctors throughout the year. Lapadatović have already made a Ivana is checking on how Snežana is to meet the burdens of an ageing pop- tions. Since it was founded, Belhospice “Education is our main goal right huge difference to Snežana Erić’s life. faring after her recent struggles. ulation and rising cancer rates. More has helped more than 1,500 patients. now. We need to create a culture and During her short visit, Lapadatović “The patient can be different every than 25,000 Serbs die of cancer each Belhospice employs a full team of acceptance of palliative care in Serbia,” spends a few minutes chatting, looks time we visit. Sometimes, they are quite year, according to the World Health Or- doctors, nurses, social workers, psy- says Dr Milićević. over some paperwork and readjusts sick and need a lot of help and some- ganization, and that number is expect- chologists and spiritual advisers to deal Palliative care advocates like Erić’s morphine patch. The dying times they feel okay,” says Lapadatović, ed to grow over the next two decades. with a patient’s emotional, psychologi- Milićević face a number of challenges woman brightens at the human touch a nurse with Belhospice, Serbia's only Serbia has no comprehensive insti- cal and spiritual needs. A team of more in launching a palliative care system in and her sense of comfort is palpable. free hospice care programme. tutional palliative care system, public than 100 volunteers help patients like Serbia. “My biggest emotion is fear and Erić is one of the thousands of termi- or private, to deal with dying cancer pa- Erić with housecleaning, shopping and with Ivana here, I’m not afraid. I’m not nal cancer patients - and their families - tients, despite having Europe's second companionship. LACK OF FUNDS alone anymore,” says Erić. She holds that Belhospice has helped through the highest cancer mortality rate. Lapadatović’s hand as she speaks. dying process. Like Erić, terminal cancer patients CANCER There is no legal framework in Ser- It’s a sentiment Lapadatović echoes: She needs the help: Erić is utterly in Serbia are simply sent home to die ‘AFFECTS FAMILIES TOO’ bia for licensing and managing pallia- “You give a lot but receive three times alone and dying of cancer. when curative options are exhausted. tive care specialists and there is very more. The best feeling is that you are Her cancer diagnosis has been “a Families are left alone to care for loved But it is not just patients that ben- little money to support the creation of doing something important every complete catastrophe”, a series of hu- ones in the final days of their lives, of- efit; Belhospice assists families who are a palliative care system. Medical facul- time a patient smiles.” 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Đoković Serbian CLUBBING among movies air at AND LIVE MUSIC Europe’s most Berlinale influential irector of the Ser- bian Film Center, under 30 Boban Jevtić said FRIDAY JANUARY 22nd • Crvi, Halftones, Incredible • R&B Thursday Delight, TUESDAY FEBRUARY 2nd THURSDAY FEBRUARY 4th Dfive Serbian films Bob, Triko, Drugstore, Bulevar Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm erbian tennis player, will be shown at the German • Maroon 5 Tribute, Akademija Despota Stefana 115, 9pm • For Old Times Sake, Tranzit • Aco Pejović, Cinema, • Balkan Express, Cantina de Novak Đoković found his movie festival, Berlinale, th st 28, Nemanjina 28, 10pm • Camera Darling, Cantina de Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, Gračanička 18, 11pm Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm place on the “Most Influ- February 11 -21 . Among the • Organizam, Eleven, Strah of Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm 10pm • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan • R&B Thursday Delight, ential Young Europeans” participants will be “Humid- S ity” (Vlažnost) by director Džeki Čena, Jazz Bar Centar, • Acko Petrović and Ivana • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm list published by Forbes, the American business magazine. Nikola Ljuca and “Depth Two” Knez Mihajlova 6, 11pm Milenković, Cinema, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. The list features 300 people in (Dubina dva) a documentary , Sioux, Skadarska Gračanička 18, 11pm 11pm WEDNESDAY rd Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Six Pack FEBRUARY 3 ten categories, including sports, about a mass grave found 20, 10pm • Petar Dundov, The Tube, • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, 11pm media, industry, policy, arts, en- in the Batajnica suburb of • Allegro Band, Teatro, Simina 21, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević, • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, tertainment and technology. Belgrade in 2001 by director Ognjen Glavonić. Sarajevska 26, 11pm • 2000 Late, Dot, Francuska Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Photo: Mirasha/Flickr Director Ognjen Glavonić. Photo: facebook • No Comment, Cantina de 6, 11pm FRIDAY JANUARY 29th 4, 10pm Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Departman, Apartman, • Tropical Bleyage and Karađorđeva 43, 11pm • Fish in Oil, Akademija 28, Imitation Violinist Manmachine, Underground, • Lifeforms Live, CUK Imago, Nemanjina 28, 10pm Pariska 1, 11pm Dečanska 14, 11pm • No Comment, Cantina de jewellery Tijana • Vlada Janjić and Brka/ • Mystic Styles with Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Milošević Divine House Party, 20/44 Scratcha DVA, 20/44 boat • Dark Night, Vrtoglavica, TRATTORIA exhibition boat on Sava, 11pm on Sava, 11pm Šajkaška 15, 11pm opened in performs in • Mile Voli Disco, Grad • Moodswinger, Chillton, • The Great Salsa Party, PIZZERIA Cultural Centre, Braće Katanićeva 7, 10pm Mikser House, Karađorđeva Belgrade Belgrade Krsmanović 4, 11pm • Gistro Pop, Grad Cultural 46, 10pm ne of the most ijana Milošević, the first violin • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, Nebojsina 8 popular exhibi- of the Belgrade's Philharmonic 11pm 11pm 11pm 011/3863-999 tions in Belgrade Orchestra, has performed on , Tilt, , Gun , Tilt, th • Retro House Party • Indie-Go! Chart 2015 • Retro House Party [email protected] opened in late January 15 as a solo player with Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Club, Miloša Pocerca 10, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm www.restoranamici.rs T O her orchestra that was led by the con- 2015, "The beauty that is • Old Hits Electro Party, 10pm • Old Hits Electro Party, worn. Great Italian imita- ducter Srboljub Dinčić. Her violin was first Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva • Cheers to the Weekend, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva tion.” Several thousand heard behind the scenes of the prologue of 23, 11pm Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm 23, 11pm people have visited the "American four seasons" created by Philip • Memfisa, Drugstore Play, • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr • Memfisa, Drugstore Play, original exhibition at the Glass. Supported by her colleagues, Tijana performed an energetic interpretation of boat on Sava river, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, boat on Sava river, 11pm Italian Cultural Institute in Belgrade. Vivaldi's "Winter" as well. • R&B and House Night, 11pm • R&B and House Night, Photo: Antonio Ahel Photo: Marko Đoković Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević and Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević and DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan • Beton Yourself, Beton, DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Waterpolo Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, • Dooshan and Goran • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Championship Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Starčević, Brankow, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, packs the 10pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm 10pm • Nineties, KST, Bulevar Kralja stands SATURDAY JANUARY 23rd Aleksandra 73, 10pm SATURDAY JANUARY 30th KOLARAC • Belgrade Riot Fest, Dom SUNDAY JANUARY 24th • Arctic Monkeys Tribute, elgrade’s Arena has been greeting visitors Omladine, Makedonska 22, Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, PROGRAMME for the past two weeks 9pm • Dojo, Ensh, Gun KLub, 10pm from numerous parts Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm • Goa Experience – Agneton, B of Europe, hosting the Europe- • Viktor Savić and Guests, Sioux, Skadarska 40, 11pm an Water Polo Championship. Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina • Vini Vici, GATAKA, Imago The arena was packed with 4, 11pm CUK, Dečanska 14, 11pm supporters who got the chance • RnB Night, Cinema, • Cheers to the Weekend, to witness duels between top water polo countries like Ser- Gračanička 18, 11pm Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 27th Rachmaninoff, L. Bernstein bia, Montenegro, Italy, Hungary Production: Belgrade Philharmonic • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr and Croatia. MONDAY JANUARY 25 Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Music Gallery, 6pm th Photos: Facebook 11pm String Quartet Il Bel Paese SATURDAY, JANUARY 30 Cycle: Encounter with an Artist • DJ George and Dalibor • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, FREE COPY Production: Music Centre Concert Hall, 8pm Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Admission Free Mozart’s Concerts and Handel’s Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Beton Yourself, Beton, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Messiah Karađorđeva 2, 11pm THURSDAY, JANUARY 28th Production: New Belgrade Opera Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade th TUESDAY JANUARY 26 • Dooshan and Goran Sponsor: Makris Foundation Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Starčević, Brankow, Concert Hall, 8pm Tickets price: 300, 500 rsd Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić • Tricky presents Skilled Crnogorska 12, 11pm Bandoneon & Strings BIRN editorial team: Mechanics, Magacin Depo, • Ladies’ Night and Guests: Zoran Anić, guitar, Ivana SUNDAY, JANUARY 31st Nikolić, piano Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Travnička 3, 10pm Brit’n’Bass, KST, Bulevar CITY GUIDE Available at: , Studentski Grad Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Aleksandar Nikolić, bandoneon & Concert Hall, 11am [email protected] • Naked St. George Strings Giorgio Mandolesi, bassoon, Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Cultural Centre, Bulevar Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović Zorana Đinđića 179, 10pm SUNDAY JANUARY 31 Programme: A. Piazzolla, M. de Calogero Palermo, clarinet & Nataša Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Falla, A. Nikolić Šarčević, piano Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva Production: Tango Association Programme: Saint Saens, APROPO [email protected] Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. Hotel Moskva Ticket price: 800, 00 rsd Schumann, Lyadov, Glinka Bookstore and tearoom Subscription & Distribution: Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 Production: Music Centre +381 11 2625839 Hotel Excelsior Goran Knezevic WEDNESDAY JANUARY 27 • RnB Night, Cinema, FRIDAY, JANUARY 29th Admission free FREE SIM CARD Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport +381 11 4030 303 Gračanička 18, 11pm TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Supermarket concept store • DJ Marko Radosavljević, Concert Hall, 8pm THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 4th Hudson news odlasci / departures [email protected] PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals st Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina MONDAY FEBRUARY 1 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Hotel Townhouse 27 Cycle: For Lovers Concert Hall, 8pm Hudson news transit zona / transit 4, 10pm WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight • Darko Soldo, Cantina de Conductor: Uroš Lajovic Opera Gala Concert – Day of the Order online: RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel th Soloist: Olga Kern, piano Concert Hall COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 THURSDAY JANUARY 28 Frida, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ Е. Elgar, S. Music Centre ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs Circulation: 4,000 • DJ George and Dalibor Programme: Production: belgrade-city-guide • Bunt, KST, Bulevar Kralja Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, Aleksandra 73, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 15 GOING OUT SPORT Zaokret Serbia’s With Belgrade constantly Vidić craving new spots, Zaokret could not have opened up leaves Inter at a better time. Milan FC David GALIĆ neighborhood that’s become the hot- test spot for both locals and foreigners he winter season is usu- to enjoy the nights over the past several Vidić is searching for a new club, according to media reports. Photo: socialBedia/Flickr ally a down time for years. This is probably the main appeal discovering new places of Zaokret; you get Savamala atmos- Former Serbia defender Nemanja Ivana NIKOLIĆ “I would like to thank the Nerazzurri lookout for a new club. to go out in Belgrade. phere while staying in the centre. family [a nickname for Inter players He started his professional career in Most new establish- Once inside, there isn’t much to see. Vidić’s contract with Italian he Milan-based Interna- that refers to the team’s kit colours] and 2000 at Belgrade’s Red Star. In 2004, ments spend the winter There’s one large space that probably zionale football club con- the Inter fans. I would like to wish the he left the country for Russia’s Spartak Tgetting their concepts together before takes up about 80 percent of the club, football club is terminated after firmed on January 19th club the greatest success in the future. Moscow where he stayed until 2006 opening in the spring. But opening in and another small section in the back. that its contract with for- Forza Inter forever,” Vidić said. when he transferred to the UK’s Man- the winter may be a great move for Za- The walls are white with very little dec- missing entire season due to mer national and Red Star During his career at Inter, Vidić made chester United. okret, because it is practically the only orating them outside a few pictures and TBelgrade player Nemanja Vidić has 28 competitive appearances for the During his time with Manchester Unit- new club to rear its head recently. The old exposed bricks here and there. The injuries. been cancelled by mutual consent. San Siro side, scoring one goal. How- ed, Vidić won the Champions League club opened a few weeks before the bar is located right at the entrance and The 34-year-old defender, who ever, this season’s matches were played and five Premier League titles.He played New Year and is already becoming a a majority of the space is filled up with joined the Italian club in July 2014, without him as he was diagnosed with at Old Trafford for eight consecutive sea- fairly popular spot. long tables and extended seating. High thanked both the club and its fans for a hernia and had back injuries. sons before joining Inter Milan. Zaokret is in an exceptional city cen- bar tables are scattered about the rest the support he had during his time on Several international media outlets Vidić also played for Serbia’s national tre location, parallel to famed bohemi- of the empty areas of the club. the team. have reported that Vidić is now on the team from 2002 to 2011. an quarter Skadarlija and next door to One of the biggest downsides of Za- the old BIP beer hall. However, the front okret, especially noticeable in the win- door may be a little tricky to find. You ter, is the lack of a coat check. Everyone can’t enter the club directly from the keeps their winter jackets and acces- street; you’ll need to enter a courtyard sories piled on tables or hanging from Zaokret offers the taste of Savamala in the city centre. Photo: Facebook first before you can get into the club. chairs, which, along with a lack of venti- The first comparison you might draw lation and windows, gives off a slight air bing crew Kišobran. They’ve been programme. In Zaokret, you’ll usually crowd, it gives you all of the chicness Serbia hosts Olympic basketball from Zaokret is to popular Savamala of claustrophobia. throwing great parties in Belgrade for be getting the electronic music side of of Savamala right in the centre of town, haunt KC Grad in that both spaces are Aligning oneself with a popular DJ years and they’re bringing their strong the Kišobran crew. However, the way the staff is cordial, the cocktails are sparsely decorated. However, Zaokret group in order to get attention is be- following of indie music fans—both the club is set up, don’t discount the good and the drinks are reasonably is simply a club and definitely doesn’t coming a popular and profitable move electronic and guitar-based- with them chance of live bands starting to play priced. All in all, that’s a pretty good qualifying tournament function as a cultural centre like KC for new clubs and bars in Belgrade re- to Zaokret. here sooner or later either. start. Grad. cently. It’s certainly paid off for Zaokret. Zaokret has already attracted seri- For now, Zaokret is pretty basic, but In general, Zaokret looks and feels as Zaokret is linked, either by owner- ous crowds since the Kišobran crew it does have a lot going for it. It has a Zaokret if it belongs in Savamala, the riverside ship or by friendship, to popular club- became a staple of Zaokret’s musical solid following among the hip younger Address: Cetinjska 15a Belgrade will Filip AVRAMOVIĆ There will be six countries par- ticipating in each of the three quali- host one of taly and the Philippines will fication tournaments, but only the Tricky back Seattle garage rockers Night host the other two basketball winner will be granted a spot in the three Olympic qualifying games ahead of the Olympics. It’s safe to say that Serbia’s Olympic Games that will take national players will draw momen- in Serbia Beats in KC Grad qualifying place in Rio de Janeiro this tum from home crowd support. Isummer. It is still unknown which countries egendary trip-hop producer ight Beats, tournaments, The basketball Olympic qualifier will be playing against each other, and performer Tricky is one of the Federation games will be held in Belgrade’s Kom- but participating nations include returning to Belgrade today’s bank Arena from July 4th to July 10th. Angola, Tunisia, Senegal, Canada, on January 26th at Dom busiest of International Other candidates for hosting the Mexico, Puerto Rico, the Philippines, Omladine for the first date and most qualification tournaments, besides Iran, Japan, France, Greece, Italy, the Lof his new tour. Tricky’s new album, Nexplosive garage rock the three countries selected, were Czech Republic, New Zealand and Basketball “Skilled Mechanics,” is being released bands, are coming to the Czech Republic, Turkey and Ger- Serbia. a few days before the Belgrade show; Serbia. Known for playing Associations, many. FIBA is also to award ‘wild cards’ fans here may see some songs being a volatile and exciting Italian Tuttosport said Turkey did to three countries, enabling them to performed live for the first time ever. brand of psychedelic FIBA, has not get the host role for the qualification participate in the qualifying games. If you want to get tickets for presale rock, they have been end- announced. tournaments because it will be hosting The three countries are yet to be de- prices, they will cost €15 for another lessly touring the world over for the past several years. Serbian national team takes the court. Photo: Fiba the European Championship in 2017. cided. few days at all Eventim ticket outlets. The concert is on February 6th in KC Grad. Tickets are available for the presale A ticket will cost €17 on the night of the price of eight euros at the KC Grad bar and the Pinball Wizard Records store. concert.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO OUR PREMIUM Avant-garde rocker Toby Driver at NEWS AND ANALYSIS Jazz Bar Centar Ozric Tentacles CONTENT announce Belgrade return IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE New York experimental rock scene for in-depth analysis, Disco guilty pleasures for royalty Toby Driver has been to Seminal English psychedelic rockers investigative reports, the New Year Belgrade Riot Fest Belgrade twice before: once with the Ozric Tentacles played Belgrade for features, interviews, seminal avant-goth rock band he leads, the first time last year. Apparently, they commentary and profiles One of the most festive parties of 2015 If you’d like to see the best that Bel- Kayo Dot, and once as the bassist for liked it so much that they decided to re- on the latest business and is back. Mile Voli Disko is a night where grade's punk and metal scene has to experimental rockers Secret Chiefs 3. turn for another performance this year. political headlines. people can come out to enjoy under- offer, you can catch a glimpse at the For what he is calling a “Ballads” tour, he They are playing Drugstore on March ground and popular disco hits of the Belgrade Riot Fest at Dom Omladine on is presenting new music in a stripped Italian techno DJ in Dot 12th. They will be joined on tour by co- 70s and 80s guilt-free along with other Saturday, January 23rd. Nine bands are down way, accompanied by only a headliners Project RnL, a very unique people who share their affinities for this performing, and most subscribe to the drummer and organ player on Friday, Dot is the place to be if you’re looking Israeli progressive rock band whose OTHER SERVICES: sound. same no-frills style of speed and aggres- February 5th. for a good techno party. Italian DJ and YouTube performances have earned Tickets will cost less than two euros. sion whether they play punk, hardcore Tickets are three euros at the door producer Marco Faraone will be spin- them many fans recently. The party is Friday, January 22nd at KC or metal. Tickets are five euros at the at the Jazz Bar Centar club in Knez ning on Friday, January 22nd. Ticket prices have not been announced Grad. door. Mihailova. Tickets are four euros at the door. yet. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 22 - Tuesday, Februay 04, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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