Index On the 6 Editor’s Letter Cover 7 Three New Professional Sports Franchises in La Paz Kat Bennett has been a full-time 8 La Paz Day Trips resident of La Paz 10 First Real Estate Professional since 2005. Licenses Issued in BCS In addition to being the former 12 La Paz… Actualizing a Vision owner of Allende Books, Kat of Sustainability has appeared in local theater 15 MAR LIBRE – Still Rescuing productions, has worked on several Our Reefs and Mangroves translation projects, and is a frequent contributor to The Baja 16 SMILEY CITIZEN Citizen. She is an avid amateur 18 MAP photographer. 20 Statues of the La Paz Malecón 22 Ramblings – The Table 23 Clinica Communitaria Familiar in El Centenario

Editor Gari-Ellen Donohoe [email protected] 612 159 1388

Graphic Design [email protected]

The Baja Citizen community magazine is a monthly, free circu- lation magazine that is distributed in La Paz and the communi- ties of El Centenario, Todos Santos, El Pescadero, El Sargento, La Ventana and Los Barriles.

The views of contributors to The Baja Citizen community magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers.

Publisher: Hally J. Productions S. de R.L. La Paz, BCS, 23090

The Baja Citizen 4 Summer Edition 2019

Letter from the Editor

Welcome to the Summer Edition of The “Bici o Vicio” (Bike or Vice Association) Baja Citizen! as well as a group of youth who BMX, to find the best way to rescue the unused area I have been calling La Paz home for al- and turn it into a functional and safe space most 20 years now and I still find myself for riders to develop their sport. amazed at how beautiful it is. I consider myself so fortunate to live here. La Paz Both parks will provide a place for chil- has just become even more special with dren and families to connect with others the renovation of two high traffic public and a space to engage in recreational ac- parks in the city, including the just remod- tivities. The parks also bring an intrinsic eled Parque Cuauhtemoc, located right aesthetic to La Paz; one that adds to the along the malecon and Nicolas Bravo. beauty of my adopted hometown.

“With the rehabilitation and beautification This will be the last edition of The Baja of Parque Cuauhtémoc, now the families Citizen until November 2019. of La Paz and those who visit us have an integral, modern and inclusive space for I have been working all year with a great healthy coexistence,” said the Governor team of writers who devote serious effort of , Carlos Mendoza each issue to tell their story. Thank-you Davis, during the inauguration of this em- Judy, Russ, Mary Anne and Heather, who blematic meeting place. truly inspire me with their writing and photos. Also, huge thanks to Kat, Don- neley and RJ who were always there with a helping hand.

I have the best advertisers, ones who love supporting The Baja Citizen. Please re- member to support them in return. If it weren’t for them, there would be no mag- azine.

Parque Cuauhtemoc Park Remember, all summer long you can keep The Casa del Artesano Sudcaliforniano, up with news and events in La Paz on-line popular for visitors looking for local keep- at www.bajacitizen.com or The Baja sakes and souvenirs, was also remodeled Citizen. within the park. The Tourist Attention Center (CATTAC) was built beside the However your summer flows, I hope you Casa del Artesano Sudcaliforniano, mak- enjoy it! ing this park an important stop for visitors to the area. Hugging the street Nicolas Yours, Bravo, Parque Cuauhtémoc is complete Gari-Ellen with a skate park for local skateboarders to use.

The BMX Park, located at the other end of the malecon, in front of Marina Palmira, is almost complete. The idea for the park materialized from the need of young peo- ple in La Paz to have a suitable place to practice their sport. BMX is short for bi- cycle motocross which is a cycle sport per- formed on BMX bikes. The state govern- ment met with the civil group Asociacion BMX Park

The Baja Citizen 6 Summer Edition 2019 Three New Professional Sports Franchises in La Paz

The game is fast-paced and high-scoring. They play forty minutes (the same length as a college game) in four ten-minute pe- By Russ Ham riods, but they score like the NBA, as a 24-second shot clock forces the action. Three new professional sports franchises are playing their first seasons in La Paz — the Mantarrayas (basketball), the Delfines (baseball), and the Lobos Marinos (soc- cer). More than fifty million pesos has been invested in the stadium complex on Cinco de Mayo, and the renovated “Villa Deportiva” now includes a baseball sta- dium, a soccer stadium, and an arena for basketball and other indoor sports.

The basketball team, the Mantarrayas, CIBACOPA had its roots in the 1980s and plays in the CIBACOPA league — El Cir- has held continuous seasons since 2001. cuito de Baloncesto de la Costa del Pací- League rules guarantee a mix of Mexican fico. The season runs from late March to and foreign players. Eight other teams early June. Arena La Paz covers the block compete with the Mantarrayas — the Ca- bounded by Hidalgo, Marcelo Rubio, Mo- balleros from Culiacan, the Gigantes de relos, and Felix Ortega streets. It is not from , the Halcones a large facility, so even the most afford- of Ciudad Obregon, the Ostioneros from able seats — under 200 pesos — are close Guaymas, the Pioneros from Los Mochis, to the action. For a little more money the Rayos of , the Venados of — about 800 pesos — there are court- Mazatlan, and the Zonkeys from . side seats that will make you feel like a Like baseball, when a visiting team is in Hollywood VIP. The team regularly of- town, they will play at least two games, fers specials like two-for-one seats or free often on back-to-back nights. admission for children age 10 and under. Tickets can be purchased on-line or (to The baseball team, the Delfines, play in avoid the service charge) at the arena’s the Liga Norte de México, the “LNM.” box office, open mornings and afternoons, The LNM is a principal minor league for but closed from one to three. Continues on page 28

Summer Edition 2019 7 The Baja Citizen At the turn of the century, Todos Santos was the site of a major sugar cane industry but today it’s home to many art galleries, gift La Paz Day Trips shops and seasonal expats. In the downtown area you will find Hotel California and several other excellent places to enjoy lunch or a beverage.

Just south of Todos Santos is the small community of Pescadero, which is also the surfing capitol of Baja California Sur. In Pes- By R.J. Archer cadero, don’t miss Baja Beans, a right turn at the OXXO store. The owners import and roast some of the best coffee around! The city of La Paz has many things to do and see but we all feel the need to “get out of town” from time to time. I recommend El Triunfo and San Antonio (31 miles south and east of La Paz the following destinations because they’re all easy day trips by on Highway 1) Follow Highway 1 out of town but bear leftat the car (or boat!) and you’ll find many places along the way to enjoy “Y” south of San Pedro. (The sign indicates that lunch and experience our dessert, mountain and seaside vistas. is in both directions – be sure you take the left-hand exit) The road will take you up into the northern end of the Sierra de la Please see the accompanying Laguna Mountains. This area has an interesting history map for reference. that dates back to the mid-1800s when gold and silver were discovered. By the turn of the century, it was the fi- Todos Santos (50 miles south nancial and cultural center of the region, with more than of La Paz on Highways 1 & 19) 10,000 permanent residents! The mines closed in 1926 is a charming Pueblo Magico and most people left. Today the population is less than (magic town) located about half way between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. Follow High- way 1 out of town but bear right at the “Y” south of San Pedro. (The sign indicates that Cabo San Lucas is in both di- rections – be sure you take the right-hand exit.) Your drive to Todos Santos will take you di- agonally across the peninsula, from the placid Sea of Cortez to the much wilder (and colder) Pacific Ocean. El Triunfo, BCS. Photo courtesy of RJ Archer.

The Baja Citizen 8 Summer Edition 2019 500 but El Tri- unfo is gaining popularity as a tourist attrac- tion by spon- soring weekend events. Two no- table attractions are the piano museum and the old smelter smokestacks. The taller stack, San Antonio, BCS. Photo courtesy of RJ Archer. reaching 35 me- ters (115 feet) into the sky, was designed by Gustav Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame.

San Bartolo and Los Barriles (60 miles south and east of La Paz on Highway 1) San Bartolo is a small mountain community of about 800 people on Highway 1, 20 miles past San Antonio. Thanks to an abun- dance of fruit trees this village has become known for its home- made candies, which are available at road- side stands along the highway. If you plan San Bartolo, BCS. Photo courtesy of RJ Archer. to explore San Bartolo, watch for signs to the “city center” as it’s off the main highway. The road between San Antonio and San Bartolo includes some windy, mountain driving, so please be careful! Also watch for the many topes (speed bumps) once you reach San Bartolo.

Los Barriles,BCS. Photo courtesy of RJ Archer. Los Barriles is a seaside community popular with expats and it’s part of a larger area known as the East Cape. Wind sports and sportfishing are popular activities and there are a number of ex- cellent restaurants in town. As with San Bartolo, the main part of Los Barriles is off the highway a few blocks, where you’ll also find a long, white beach that runs the length of town. Continues on page 29

Summer Edition 2019 9 The Baja Citizen First Real Estate Licenses Issued in BCS

TBC

• The new licensing will guarantee the legality of new investments and will regulate all real estate operations in the state.

The Secretary of Tourism, Economy and Sustainability (SETUES) in Baja Califor- nia Sur, Luis Humberto Araiza López, granted the first real estate licenses to professional agents and advisors from the municipalities of La Paz, Los Cabos and Real Estate License Loreto last week. agents and real estate brokers are now Araiza Lopez said that the main objec- Real estate licenses in BCS are issued required to be a new law that regulates tive of the law that regulates real estate by the state government and give agents real estate agents in BCS was approved professionals in the State of Baja Califor- and brokers the legal ability to represent unanimously in the Commission of Fiscal nia Sur is to regulate real estate activities a home seller or buyer in the process of and Administrative Affairs for the State carried out by professional agents. This buying or selling real estate. Real estate Congress in 2017. guarantees the legal security in real estate

The Baja Citizen 10 Summer Edition 2019 Victor Granados of South Baja Realtors receiving one of Baja California Sur’s first real estate license from the Secretary of Tourism, Economy and Sustainability transactions of the estate for both parties sell you that piece of land. Only certified involved in the transaction, the one en- professionals can buy and sell real estate, trusted and those who invest in real estate which will make for less bad experiences through any legal entity. and a more formalized process.

The new law is now in effect and there- “Secondly, properties that are listed for fore, becoming a real estate agent in BCS sale must have all documents in order. requires a state license. All documents, including the public deed and the payment of property taxes, will Real estate licenses are valid for three be revised. The real estate industry is one years. In order to obtain the license, there of the most important for the economic are certain requirements that must be met. development of Baja California Sur, and Candidates must take courses, be trained we need to keep real estate sales moving. by a licensed real estate professional and With documents in order, the process will write a written exam before they can ap- be quicker and sales can close faster.” ply for a real estate license. Real estate advisors may work under the license of John Glaab, CIPS a founding member the company or real estate professional and director of AMPI Los Cabos com- for whom they work for. mented, “The introduction of the new law and issuing real estate licenses is the In the past, anyone in Mexico could claim most exciting thing I have witnessed dur- to be a real estate agent. But in a trend to- ing my 25 years in the Mexican real estate wards transparency in Mexico, more and industry. Not only will it raise the stan- more people now prefer using the services dards and ethics in our industry, but will of a registered real estate agent. Already increase the confidence of both domestic 15 states in the country have a real estate and foreign investors. regulatory law in place. Baja California Sur is now the 16th state. I salute the hard-working team from AMPI and ASPI La Paz along with AMPI Tony Garcia, President of AMPI La Paz, Los Cabos and MLS/BCS who worked so says the licensing law will make it easier vigorously to write the new law.” for foreigners buying real estate in BCS to make smart choices. “Firstly, if an in- 54 more real estate licenses in BCS are dividual trying to sell you a piece of land now in process at SETUES and should be is not licensed, they will not be allowed to issued in the upcoming weeks.

Summer Edition 2019 11 The Baja Citizen La Paz… Actualizing a Vision of Sustainability environmental practices, green principles that maintain sustain- ability? Can the City of La Paz demonstrate it’s commitment to the global movement around “saving the planet?

The refreshing news is that the journey has started. As the cliché states, the engine has left the station and all over the city we are seeing efforts and initiatives around conservation, the environ- By Mary Anne Harmer ment, and green practices. But first let’s define sustainability: (Cambridge dictionary:) We love our city of Peace. And over the years we have seen it “The quality of causing little or no damage to the environment become more sophisticated in so thatit can continue for a long time.” food, coffeeshops, and even small micro-breweries. But There is an energy in the city, in part driven by Mexican youth, for many of us the magic in our other conscientious leaders and some expats to fulfil the prom- hearts for La Paz is its natural ise of this definition. In fact, this once quiet coastal town was beauty. So, the compelling recently awarded funding to become the first Mexican city to be question of the day… How can totally solar powered within 20 years. The region is fortunate to the city maintain that beauty have some of the highest average solar irradiance in Mexico - with an ever-increasing popu- more than 5.8 kilowatt hours per square meter a day. lation? Can we keep its waters and land clean? Can we adopt Of course, to be total solar powered is a big leap with many chal- lenges. In fact, as efforts continue around solar power, the city, nevertheless, is still home to five of the state´s large, conventional energy plants, which are not exactly producing pristine air. These power plants supply energy to the city and many other parts of the state and burn low-grade fuel oil and high-sulfur diesel and have been the object of well-founded criticism. So, while the solar fields will play a significant role in improving air quality around La Paz, they will still have to co-exist with environmen- tally unfriendly fossil fuel plants.

Yet, the solar movement is gaining traction and does inspire hope around a renewable energy source. For those interested here a few companies in the La Paz area that may be able to help you install solar panels on your own residence while the city works on large scale solar projects. Tecnosol - Tecnología Solar y Energía Renovablede B.C.S. 01 612 166 8266 Innovacion Solar01 624 105 9478 Paneles Solares Energy Cabo, 01 612 132 5952

The Baja Citizen 12 Summer Edition 2019 Other Initiatives in La Paz to Promote Sustainability There are many other initiatives that give us hope. Here is a just a small sampling… and I know there are many others.

Sociedad de Historia Nacional Niparaja This organization is run by a group of paceño volunteers who are committed to the protection of the environment and a sustainable development of society. “Our great challenge is to position na- ture not only as a profitable resource but as the most essential for our survival,” said Paola Ruffo Ruffo, President of the Board of Directors. Projects revolve around land and marine conservation, sustainable fishing, water management. Phone: 612 122 1171

Whale Shark Mexico Research Project Whale Shark Mexico is an organization that offers a platform of opportunities for volunteers, students and the general public to help with the conservation and the scientific research of whale Trash bins on the malecon of La Paz sharks. Founded by two ocean conservationists, the project has pound of garbage from every resident in the city. According to gained rapid support and is now considered as the leading organi- 2018 data from the non-governmental organization Observatorio zation for the species in our region.Phone: 612 168 1618 Ciudadano or Citizens´ Observatory, around 27% of the garbage produced in the city comes from residences. That is us! Mar Libre A group of Volunteers engaged in promoting environmental edu- Fortunately, this year a new state law was passed in Baja Cali- cation in La Paz schools throughout the year. Monthly activities fornia Sur banning the use of plastic bags, straws and Styrofoam. with youth focus around cleaning and maintaining the mangroves In the next 12 months, stores, restaurants and food venders can and reefs. Phone: 612 154 9859 use the plastic they already have on stock, but moving forward it Continues on page 30

Mar Libre beach clean-up day Grupo Tortuguero de las Californias (GTC) GTC is a network for the conservation of sea turtles and commu- nities. The work and conviction of fishermen, students, teachers, local residents, scientists, civil society organizations and govern- ment institutions make this network stay active. Phone: 612 146 3552

International Community Foundation (IFC) ICF is an international nonprofit organization, which seeks to in- spire and raise funding in Baja to strengthen and promote sustain- able communities. Along with its grantees,it is dedicated to plan for the future – including improving monitoring/surveillance in environmental priority areas. Website: www.icfdn.org

What can we do as individuals? As these initiatives move the dial forward around sustainability, there are small things each of us can do to keep La Paz clean and sustainable. Perhaps you didn’t know that La Paz generates about 520 tons of trash every day, which translates into roughly a one

Summer Edition 2019 13 The Baja Citizen

MAR LIBRE – Still Rescuing Our Reefs and Mangroves

By Tamara Double

Mar Libre is a La Paz-based action group of predominantly Mexican volunteers of all ages and walks of life, with a smatter- ing of foreign residents just for good measure. Their mission is to stem the tide of man-made trash and pollutants that are rap- idly choking our oceans and killing marine life. Focusing on the miles of local shoreline, the group meets once a month at an al- lotted site and sets about removing plastics, glass, fishing debris, aluminium cans and other metals, building materials, car tyres - in fact, anything that doesn’t belong there – from the mangroves Rubbish collected on El Mogote,awaiting collection from the Malecon and adjoining areas of beach. In the summer months, the diving The following month the group founders decided to tackle the volunteers collect debris from the reefs – predominantly fishing cleaning of the dense mangrove forest along the southern shore line entangled in coral heads, fishing nets and bits of old rope. of the El Mogote sandspit, across the channel from the city. Vol- unteers made the crossing by kayak, paddleboard and panga. These clean-up events are organised by one of Mar Libre’s What they found there was truly shocking. Litter was strewn founders, Pablo Ahuja, a New Yorker who fell in love with the over the small beaches and further inland across the tidal flood Sea of Cortez on his first visit many years ago and returned here plain, behind the mangrove trees. The mangrove’s long and tan- to study marine biology. He has lived in La Paz ever since. Back gled roots were wrapped in plastic bags and acted as traps for ev- in 2015, he and a group of fellow marine biologists were sit- ery bit of floating plastic that had made its way across the chan- ting around the pool, drinking beer one fine July day, discussing nel from the city, via the wind and the floods after rain. Glass the increasing amounts of trash they were finding in the sea and bottles and beer cans lay half-buried in the muddy shallows, and along the shoreline. They decided there and then to organise a worst of all, there were big chunks of Styrofoam (also known as group of divers to go and clean up the reef around the little island unicelorpolystyrene) shedding their tiny round components all of San Rafaelito, which is a popular site for fishing, as well as over the place. In one area, they found several large piles of both diving. More than 30 divers showed up for that first organised coarse and fine filament fishing nets and a load of synthetic wo- clean-up nearly 4 years ago, and removed a mountainof fishing ven sacks, dumped there by fishermen. After stuffing it all into line and all manner of garbage from the bottom. It was a re- garbage bags, they discovered numerous small white scorpions sounding success. scuttling around on the spot where they had been sheltering un- Continues on page 22

Summer Edition 2019 15 The Baja Citizen

Statues of the La Paz Malecon

TBC Paceño” is a guide to the more than twenty statues, identifying each by artist and title, with an interactive map, photographs, The most accessible art in La Paz is the collection of statues and other information. The sculptors include legendary 20th- along the malecón. If you’ve ever wondered about the artists century artists Juan Soriano and Jose Kuri-Breña, as well as and the stories behind these works, a free app is available to dynamic modern talents like Octavio González Gutiérrez and help. ”Statues of the La Paz Malecón / Estatuas del Malecón Manuel Salvador Rocha Higuera. Several artists have more than one work here; this app will help you know which stat- ues share the same creator. It will also direct you to other statues that are close but not directly on the Malecón, works easily missed but worth seeking.

The app was created by Cindy Yates, a full-time La Paz resi- dent. She is originally from , where she earned engi- neering degrees from Texas A&M and UT Austin. After a brief engineering career, she developed educational soft- ware and taught multimedia development at Austin Commu- nity College. This eventually led to her dream job at Apple, Inc. where she worked for more than 6 years before moving to La Paz.

Cindy began app development as a hobby after she moved to La Paz. The statues app is her first to appear in the App Store, and is available as a free download for iPhone and El Viejo...Y El Mar iPad, in both English and Spanish. She is planning an up- date incorporating augmented reality and including the street murals and other cultural sites in the city.

Earlier this year, Cindy was in the inaugural class of the Ap- ple Entrepreneur Camp — a two-week program for organiza- tions founded and led by women. She has been featured in the news- paper Reforma as well as a website for women’s news called actitudfem. com. She envi- sions a future with a vibrant devel- oper community in La Paz, and is always looking for ways to encourage and enable young paceños — and especially young paceñas — to learn program- ming skills.

Photos Courtesy of Estudio Chispa.

El Niño de La Paz

The Baja Citizen 20 Summer Edition 2019 Ramblings – The Table On the other hand, Stove was a diva who demanded constant attention. If she didn’t get the respect she craved, she’d throw a tantrum. When I was six-years-old She burnt me when I got too close. Once, as I headed toward Fridge searching for a snack, I By Judy Ristity froze. Stove had grown a head – a sheep’s head sat in a soup pot. Sheep eyes stared at me; sheep tongue mocked me. I ran out the I sit on our patio and watch the leaves sway on our two-year-old back door. When Ma called me in for supper, hunger overcame Nim tree. I place my coffee cup down on the table and trace my fear, but thank God Stove was back to normal; the sheep had fingers over its familiar yellow butterfly and sky-blue leaf de- vanished. Ma said, “Come in Judy. We’re having beef stew –your sign. Unlike our Nim tree, the leaves on my table are old, dear. favorite.”

Table sat in my family’s kitchen before I was born. Her history Stove was temperamental. Usually she smelled of scrumptious is forgotten, but I remember she was loved. Seven of us ate din- onions and garlic sizzling in a pool of olive oil. Occasionally, ner on her smooth surface every night. Kitchen was tiny so we Stove’s Oven produced clove-rich Greek cookies or honey- were squished together, but never felt crowded. Friends flocked drenched, walnut-filled baklava. On other occasions, I gagged to Kitchen, but by today’s standards, Kitchen was a cook’s and when Stove boiled stinky kidneys forour cat, Sonia. Stove had a designer’s nightmare – laid out like the letter “U”, Fridge in one serious personality disorder. teeny alcove; Sink in the other. Stove and Table were located where the two alcoves intersected. Table was the only work sur- Ma said, “Rome stole its best qualities from us Greeks”. Re- face and was the star of our home. She united the room and our clining, for example. At our house the concept of “eat and run” family. didn’t exist. We ate; we relaxed. Dishes weren’t swept away like embarrassing relatives. They lingered with us. Hands might Table was grounded; dependable, steady. Her legs were thick, reach for the last bite of salad, or a second helping of buttery sturdy maple, needed to support our scrumptious family meals. pilaf. Daddy often peeled a large seedless orange in one strip and Flexible, she expanded to accommodate a dozen people. Table divided it in segments. He was incredibly talented. Share a meal; was about food, family and friends, not homework, jigsaw puz- share a sweet juicy orange; share. zles, letter writing, or crafts. Continues on page 32

Summer Edition 2019 21 The Baja Citizen Clinica Communitaria Familiar in El Centenario

tion coordinator, and volunteer administra- tive support.

By Carla Wilson Dr. Harris provides the leadership and direc- tion of the clinic. After practicing medicine On a gorgeous and cool Saturday morning, I since 1986, she now spends much of her headed for El Centenario to visit the newly- time in BCS. Her international experience opened Clinica Communitaria Familiar. The includes 17 years in Tibet, serving people clinic is a project of the non-profit Fundación who had very little access to healthcare. She Astra, whose mission is to provide health is committed to providing diagnosis, treat- care, free of charge, to the community in and ment, rehabilitation, and health education to around El Centenario. the people of El Centenario, in partnership with national and local authorities, health- The clinic is off Calle Seis in a traditional care professionals, and community mem- family-style casa. The yard is a large garden bers. She has assembled a team of local and with colorful blossoms and fragrant flower- international professionals, supported by lo- ing trees. A freshly-painted sign on the front cal community members. of the clinic features the foundation’s logo. Francoise Begaux, MSF, serves as Program We were greeted by Dr. Nancy Harris, M.D., Manager. She brings twenty years of expe- President and Founder of Fundación Astra. rience running programs in Tibet, Brazil, She introduced us to her team of medical Burma, and now Mexico. She is trained as providers, administrative staff, and commu- a physical therapist, and develops all the cul- nity volunteers. The team was open-hearted turally-adapted health education materials. and eager to talk about their roles and the She is the logistician for the program. focus of the clinic. It was mid-morning and they were busy registering patients, doing Adriana Riedel is the Clinic Administration medical intakes, and attending to children Coordinator. She lives in El Centenario and brought along by family members. brings her love of community and family to the clinic. The clinic is open every Saturday from 9 to 5. The focus is on family medicine, nutrition, Dr. Guadelupe Martinez, psychologist, sees and psychology services, with special em- patients each Saturday. She helps people phasis on integrated healthcare of the whole deal with mental health needs and emotional individual, including mental wellness. The health issues. She brings multiple modalities team is prepared to address a wide variety of health care needs, to provide primary care and to refer patients for diagnostics and specialty care when needed.

Prevention and education are key goals of the clinic. Treatment for conditions like diabetes, respiratory conditions, and chronic pain will include education and instruction on nutrition and prevention. Nutritional programs and health educa- tion are available to all age groups, with special focus on at-risk youth.

The team includes a medical director, a psychologist, registered nurses, a nutri- tionist, a coordinator, a manager, an educa- Francoise Begaux, Program Manager

The Baja Citizen 22 Summer Edition 2019 co has seen a rapid increase in obesity, with the number of people cat- egorized as overweight and obese tripling over the last four decades. The obesity problem is a side effect of Mexico’s economic progress. Type 2 diabetes has skyrocketed as soda consumption has risen. In 2012, Mexico was the world’s top per capita consumer of soda, guz- zling 176 liters — about 500 cans! — for every man, woman and child per year. The Mexican people can now afford — at roughly two dol- lars a day — a diet heavy in carbohydrates, sugar, and fat that delivers way more calories than the WHO’s recommended daily intake of two thousand calories. A 2015 study found Mexico to be the leading con- sumer of junk food in Latin America, consuming 450 pounds of ultra processed foods and sugary beverages per person each year.

Clinica Communitaria Familiar will address these needs head-on. Ute Kretschmer, Alejandro Pulido and Deborah MacDonald The clinic’s health education programs and dietary assistance are an- to her sessions and will conduct workshops for at-risk youths and chored in the philosophy of preparing and enjoying food that is grown their families. locally.

Dr. Dennis Alvarez, M.D., is the clinic’s medical director. During If you find yourself in El Centenario on a Saturday, stop by for a visit. the week, she is the physician at the phosphate mine in San Juan de You will be welcomed by professional and friendly folks who are ded- la Costa. To make time each Saturday for the clinic, she brings her icated to making a difference in the lives of our community members. beautiful toddler, Valentina. Her example sets the tone of the clinic, ensuring that it is a family-focused, warm, friendly, and safe place for Gracias Dr. Harris y su hermoso equipo. ¡Mucha suerte mientras families to come for treatment. trabajas por la salud de la gente de El Centenario!

We met Yahn Vazquez, the registered nutritionist. Yahn serves as nu- Carla Wilson lives in La Paz and San Francisco, CA. Her back- ground includes doctoral degrees in acupuncture, Chinese medicine tritional counselor and talked with us about the need to help patients and research with 30 years in non-profit medical care. She is a pro- make decisions on food choices. “We can help many people to have fessor at California Institute for Integral Studies. better quality of life by changing their diet,” he said, “but we want to empower people to make dietary decisions that will help their whole family.” Yahn uses games and other visual tools to help people under- stand the amounts of sugar in processed drinks.

Dr. Deborah MacDonald, Assistant Professor, Clinical Cancer Ge- netics, was a nurse researcher and consultant in hereditary cancer risk and risk reduction at the City of Hope (COH) Comprehensive Cancer Center and Beckman Research Institute in Southern Califor- nia. While reviewing medical histories and obtaining current health information including vital signs and blood glucose level, she estab- lishes rapport with the patient and helps them feel more comfortable.

Ute Kretschmer is a Registered Nurse with many years of intensive care experience in Switzerland. She is an avid cyclist — she has rid- Dr. Dennis Alvarez, Medical Director den the Baja peninsula 3 times!

We had the pleasure of meeting Alejandro Pulido, a long-time mem- ber of the El Centenario community. Alex wants to help the clinic meet the health needs of his community. He spoke about the need to help people return to traditional foods and ways of eating that support health and help people with diabetes to manage their diet and that of their family. “Kids,” he said, “need a place to learn about good food and nutrition to break the cycle of diabetes.”

Dr. Harris told us that roughly half the patients are coming for compli- cations with diabetes. “Diabetics don’t just come in with high blood sugar,” Harris says, “It’s about controlling multiple health problems at once.” Type 2 diabetes has become the second leading cause of death in the state, surpassed only by heart disease. This is a lifestyle disease, more likely to develop in people who are overweight. Mexi-

Summer Edition 2019 23 The Baja Citizen MAR LIBRE – Still Rescuing Our Reefs and Mangroves Continues from page 15 der the sacks. One of the volunteers was standing barefoot just a few inches from them!

That first mangrove clean-up made me realise how vital it is to rid the mangroves of every vestige of plastic and Styrofoam, to prevent their breakdown by the sun and waves into microplas- tics. Mangroves are nurseries for juvenile fish, most of which start their precarious lives as tiny larvae, floating about in search of food. Their first few meals are crucial to their development and survival. But research has shown that even the smallest ma- rine organisms, such as plankton and certainly fish larvae, are ingesting microplastics, which can kill them or severely stunt their growth. If they then live long enough to be eaten by bigger fish the plastic load increases up the food chain until it passes into the mammals, such as dolphins, sealions and us! In either case, everyone loses.

By September 2015 the volunteer group was officially named Rescatando Nuestros Arrecifes y Manglares (Rescuing Our Reefs and Mangroves). The monthly clean-ups of either reefs or mangroves has continued consistently and with great success. Some clean-ups have gone further afield, including Pargo Reef at Cerralvo island, the southern end of Cabo Pulmo National Ma- rine Park and even a joint beach clean-up with a similar group in Loreto!

Mar Libre divers collecting old rope and fishing line

The Baja Citizen 24 Summer Edition 2019 The volunteer group has found on repeat visits to sites they have already cleaned, that each time there is less trash than the last time. This indicates that the group are not only doing a great job, butthat there is less trash entering the sea and the mangroves.We can only hope that’s true.

Tires collected by Mar Libre divers at Pichilingue

Tamara Double is British but was born in Croatia in 1954. She speaks 4 languages and is passionate about birds and marine life. She met her husband, Alex, in the Red Sea in 1979 and worked with him there as a dive guide for 14 years. Back in Britain, Tamara ran her own very successful skincare clinic, until 2014, when the couple, along with Ta- mara’s 89 year-old mom and their now 30 year old cockatoo, Gnasher, Nets and sacks in the mangroves on El Mogote moved to La Paz for good. They are now a part of the local community, As for the group’s original name – the public struggled to re- are involved in marine conservation projects and have been committed to caring for the birds in the local Serpentario since they got here. La member it and even members of the group had a hard time get- Paz has given them the life they always wanted. ting it right! So, after some brainstorming, they eventually be- came Mar Libre. But they are all still rescuing our reefs and mangroves!

Summer Edition 2019 25 The Baja Citizen

Three New Professional Sports Franchises in La Paz the San Quintín Freseros, and the Rojos from Caborca, . Continues from page 7 the Liga Mexicana The futbol (soccer) team, the Lobos Marinos, will play in the de Béisbol, and the Second Division of the Delfines serve as a Premier League. At farm team for the press time, the team was Pericos of Puebla holding tryouts here in and for the Durango La Paz and all around Generals. The league Mexico. The season will is also affiliated with begin in August, with the Liga Mexicana thirty games running Pacifico. The season through next April. is sixty games and runs from early April to mid-July, followed The Premier League is by playoffs and the made up of forty-eight championship series. teams in two series. The champions can be The stadium — the Estadio de Béisbol Arturo C. Nahl — is on promoted to the Ascenso league, just one rung below the major Cinco de Mayo at the corner of Primo Verdad. The ninety-year- league, the Liga MX. old facility suffered extensive damage from in 2014. The renovation — only recently completed — has added The team’s home pitch will be the newly-renovated Estadio de about a thousand new seats, so that it now holds 4,100. Futbol Guaycura. The facility was inaugurated on February 23rd, 2019 with a sold-out exhibition between former players of two of Four other teams compete against the Delfines: the Algodoneros the most popular teams in Mexico, the Chivas of Guadalajara and from San Luis Rio Colorado, Sonora, the Ensenada Marineros, Club America based out of Mexico City.

Watch the club’s website — lapazfc.com — for more details as the season approaches.

Russ Ham is a musician, photographer, and writer who loves the people and culture of the peninsula. He hosts an Open Mic night every other Wednesday at La Morante Art Bar.

The Baja Citizen 28 Summer Edition 2019 La Paz Day Trips Continues from page 9

La Ventana, BCS La Ventana and El Sargento (24 miles eco-tourism destination. It was declared east of La Paz on Luis Donaldo Colosio part of UNESCO’s Biosphere Reserve in Boulevard, which becomes Highway 286 1995 and it’s the only known habitat of and then 5 miles north on Corredor Isla the black jackrabbit. Sea kayaking, snor- Cerralvo) are neighboring villages on the keling and scuba diving are popular activ- shores of the Sea of Cortez that have be- ities around the island and day trips can be come so popular with wind sports enthusi- arranged through the many tour operators asts that the area has earned the nickname along the malecon in downtown La Paz. “Hood River South.” In the spring, the long beach is filled with wind surfers and kite boarders and major tournaments fea- ture races between the beach and nearby Cerralvo Island. Bring a jacket, because the wind really blows in this part of BCS.

Ensenada de Muertos (37 miles east on Luis DonaldoColosio Boulevard, which becomes Highway 286) is where you’ll end up if you miss the turn-off to La Ven- tana. Also known as Bahia de los Muertos (Bay of the Dead), this is where the gold and silver ore were taken to be loaded onto ships during the mining boom in El Triunfo. Today, it’s the site of a residen- tial development, Bay of Dreams, a pub- lic restaurant and some great snorkeling spots. Also in the area is the fully auto- mated Punta Arena Airstrip, with a paved runway, and a large evaporation facility for extracting salt from sea water. Ask lo- cals for directions to reach these. Isla Espiěritu Santo. Photo Courtesy of Leonardo Gonzalez Isla Espiritu Santo (only accessible by R.J. Archer is an author and semi-retired boat) is a large, uninhabited island located computer consultant who has been a full-time in the mouth of the Bay of La Paz, about resident of La Paz since 2009. With the help of his wife, Marty Olver, he has published seven 17 nautical miles from downtown. The is- mystery/adventure novels and more than a land has an area of 31 square miles (12th hundred technical articles in magazines such largest in Mexico) and is an important as Windows and Smart Computing.

Summer Edition 2019 29 The Baja Citizen La Paz… Actualizing a Vision of Sustainability Continues from page 13 will be prohibited. In ad- dition, within 18 months venders for plastic con- tainers (plastic bags, straws, and Styrofoam cups, plates, bowls) will be required to change to organic and compostable options now available in Mexico.

Sadly, there is still litter throughout the city, al- though efforts are made to keep the malecon and other main streets free from litter, including litter “patrols” on the weekend. But my little Enjoy the beach and do not litter dirt side street is often full of litter. Although the situation is improving with the education of youth, the high standards around litter control in the United States and Canadahave not been fully embraced in La Paz.

CHALLENGE: Get a pair of gloves and once a week clean up the street where you live. We can volunteer to be our own litter patrol in our neighborhood. Even if we may be the only ones who seem to care.

Our city is not only the city of peace, but it can become the city of environmental hope. Are there still daunting challenges? YES. But it is all about perseverance for the long haul -- to aspire and grow as a healthy community for all, despite the challenges. La Paz is not about tourists or becoming another haven for vacation- ing; rather it is about creating a safe, positive experience for the local families, residents and businesses who live here. It is a vi- sion of La Paz as a vibrant, sustainable city. And today despite its rapid growth, the bay is cleaner, people of La Paz enjoy more healthy activities, the organic market is growing, and a focus on the environment and sustainability is ever present.

And as we think about actualizing a vision, I’m reminded that we too as individuals have personal dreams, goals and visions we

The Baja Citizen 30 Summer Edition 2019 want to move forward. Here are few thoughts to reinforce your belief in your own vision, whatever that may be… just as La Paz has done:

Congratulate yourself on the baby steps that keep you moving forward. Two steps forward and one step backward is still prog- ress.

Remember to see the glass as half full and to make lemonade out of lemons.

Remember: it’s a journey, not a destination.

Remind yourself that it is through the people you touch, the con- nections and relationships you make that progress is made. See them as powerful tools to reach your goals.

Be authentic and true to yourself and your dream. Distractions occur but hold fast to your vision as it evolves. And finally, make the daily affirmation, despite setbacks, “Yes… I am moving forward!”

Mary Anne brings passion and energy towards improving the physical, emotional and spiritual health of ALL individuals, families and com- munities across the spectrum of economics and cultures. She is the co-author of the book, 25 Building Blocks to Create a Conscientious Organization and the recently released book Putting Soul Into Busi- ness: How the Benefit Corporation is Transforming American Busi- ness. She lives part-time in La Paz.

Summer Edition 2019 31 The Baja Citizen Ramblings – The Table Continues from page 21 For 18 years, we gathered around Table. Then things changed. My brother and sisters married. My parents sold our house in Boston and we moved to the country, next door to my eldest sister. Fridge, Stove and Sink were left behind, but Table came with us.

The country was another planet.Friends from Boston made the trek, but it was a long drive. Slowly, their trips became infre- quent. Meanwhile, we invited locals to dinner. They sat around Table rigid as Table’s legs. We weren’t invited to their homes. It was the mid-60s. City people wore white gloves and danced the Cha-cha. Locals wore string ties and square danced. Slowly my Table with friends mother stopped trying. She lost her zest. Instead of gathering on the plane back to L. A. and I’ll keep and restore her legs and friends, she bought things - a new Formica table. Old Table was find a marble top for them. Table will make both of us happy.” put in the cellar. Ma folded underwear and socks on Table, who George secured Table’s top in bubble wrap. When I got to the sagged under the weight of her sadness. ticket counter and told them about Table, they didn’t charge me one cent. Zero. That October Table rode down the Baja with Thirty-five years later. Alex and I moved to La Paz. My parents Alex and me. passed away. Their house was sold. My sister, who still lived next door, jammed her house with our parents’ belongings. Table Today Table lives on our patio in La Paz. Her enamel has been sat on her unheated, closed-in porch weighed down with rusted restored as carefully as an expensive, antique car. I wash and dry paint cans, old newspapers, and broken toys. She was chipped her gently every morning and enjoy coffee on her old and fragile and unloved. top. She is a respected part of our lives. Friends gather around her. We eat, talk, and relax. Sometimes Alex peels an orange, I needed to rescue Table but I was staggered by shipping costs. I usually in one continuous strip. We share. I am grateful she is gave up hope. On my next visit my nephew George, said, “Aunty back in my life. I believe she is happy. Judy, Table’s maple legs are super heavy. You take Table’s top We all have a Table in our lives, a keepsake that awakens fond memories and remind us of where we came from and who we are. Whether it is through circumstances or because of our age, it feels comforting, like a well-used blanket, to cuddle within memory’s precious folds.

Judy Ristity finds humor in the ordinary, then looks again and discov- ers the poignant.

The Baja Citizen 32 Summer Edition 2019