Glaciers in Grand Teton National Park for the Jackson
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GOING, GOING, GONE? GRAND TETON MOUNT OWEN MIDDLE TETON TETON GLACIER SCHOOLROOM GLACIER TEEPEE GLACIER PETERSEN GLACIER MIDDLE TETON GLACIER 70 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2018 Climbers hike up Garnet Canyon en route to the summit of the South Teton. Two of Grand Teton National Park’s eleven glaciers—Middle Teton and Teepee—are passed by climbers on the most popular routes to the Grand, Middle, and South Teton summits. Over the last 10,000 to 160,000 years, melting and receding glaciers created much of the Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park MOUNT MORAN landscapes we know today. In thirty years, it’s likely some FALLING ICE GLACIER of the park’s glaciers will be TRIPLE GLACIERS history. Does it matter? SKILLET GLACIER BY WHITNEY ROYSTER ZACH SNAVELY SUMMER 2018 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE 71 TETON GLACIER BRADLY J. BONER BRADLY EVERY SUMMER, WHEN the snow melts and the hiking A climber tops out on Teewinot season starts in earnest, Forest Dramis likes to run with the North Face of the ters—far less than the prior Grand Teton and the Teton to Disappointment Peak, which rises southeast of the years’ 36,000 cubic meters, Glacier visible in the distance. Grand Teton. but still a loss continuing the trend of glacial shrinkage. Teepee Glacier, below the East Face of the Grand The route to the summit takes him through coniferous Teton, has shrunk by 60 percent in the last fifty years. forests, open fields, and, finally, high alpine terrain This number was derived from the study of aerial where little but mosses and lichens grow. From the photographs. Other methods of identifying and quan- peak’s 11,618-foot summit, Dramis, forty-three, looks tifying changes in a glacier’s size include Global out on Teepee Glacier—to the east of the Grand Positioning System (GPS) elevation surveys, a type of Teton—and, to the north, Teton Glacier. Over the eight mapping that allows researchers to see changes in rel- years he’s done this, what he’s seen from Disappointment ative volume, topographical surveys, and ground pen- Peak’s summit has changed. etrating radar (GPR). The latter has not yet been done “I noticed it last summer,” Dramis says. “You can no on any of the park’s glaciers, but GTNP physical sci- longer see the toe of the Teton Glacier. That was kind of ences branch chief Simeon Caskey hopes to use it in a stark reminder for me.” the near future because it is the best way to measure a Whatever your thoughts are on climate change, un- glacier’s depth. equivocal research that started more than a century ago The park’s remaining nine glaciers—Teton, Skillet, shows that Grand Teton National Park’s (GTNP) gla- Petersen, Falling Ice, Schoolroom, the East, Middle, and ciers are shrinking. Of the park’s eleven glaciers, all West Triple glaciers, and a recently identified unnamed have lost mass based on side-by-side comparisons of glacier near Glacier Peak—anecdotally and through photos taken fifty years ago and current images. photographic evidence are all diminishing in size. Quantitatively, National Park Service (NPS) research- ers have found that the Middle Teton Glacier shrank by GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK is a rugged land- 36,000 cubic meters in 2015 and 2016. In terms of vol- scape formed by glaciers. Billions of years ago, there ume, that’s the equivalent of 15 Olympic-size swim- was continental drift and collision. Hundreds of mil- ming pools. In 2017, it lost another 3,000 cubic me- lions of years ago, magma filled cracks in the continen- 72 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2018 tal plates and ancient seas deposited sediment that formed limestone and shale. About 13 million years ago, fur- Artfully connecting unique properties ther shifting of plates, a stretching of ter- with extraordinary lives in Jackson Hole. rain, and a series of earthquakes caused the mountain range to begin rising. Then came three periods of glacia- tion. The first glaciation, the most wide- spread and the one the least is known about, happened at a time when the val- ley floor was about a thousand feet high- er than its current level and the present system of canyons opening onto the val- ley from the Tetons had yet to form. The entire area was covered in ice as thick as two thousand feet. Between approxi- mately 160,000 and 130,000 years ago, a glacier again covered most of Jackson Hole, its southern extent just south of where the Town of Jackson is today. By Audrey L. Williams Associate Broker in WY & ID about 130,000 years ago, this glacier, (307) 690-3044 which featured “arms” marking the be- [email protected] ginnings of the canyons in the Teton AudreyWilliamsRealEstate.com Range, had receded from the valley. How glaciers form “A GLACIER IS JUST an ice mass that moves,” re- searcher Simeon Caskey says. “Essentially the snow is slowly transformed into ice by compression and recrystallization. Once it transforms into ice, it will 3 Creek Ranch Cabin with Mountain Views actually move downhill by the force of gravity.” This turn-key cabin is located in 3 Creek Ranch, Jackson Hole’s premier golf club, which As the ice moves downhill, Caskey likens it to a provides privacy and close proximity to town. Views of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort bulldozer or conveyor belt—the ice is scraping and can be enjoyed from the thoughtfully designed home, and the clubhouse is just a short dragging across the surface, picking up and depos- walk away. Owners have access to private trout streams, the nature center, and more. iting rocks and debris. When glaciers recede, as the Tetons’ are now, people can see the moraines, which 4 bedrooms | 4.5 bathrooms | 4,492 square feet | 0.76 acres | $3,925,000 are accumulations of dirt and rock marking the for- mer margins of the glacier. The most recent glaciation, occur- ring between 25,000 and 10,000 years ago, was when glaciers really got going on the area’s landscape. This was when Death, Granite, Garnet, and Cascade Gros Ventre North - $3,925,000 Vacant Land - $2,388,000 Canyons were carved and Leigh, String, 4 Bedrooms | 4.5 Baths | 6,148 Sq.Ft. | 10.5 Acres 8.5 Acres | Teton Views | No Building Envelope Jenny, Bradley, Taggart, Phelps, and Jackson Lakes were formed as we know them today. Again though, these glaciers melted. The eleven glaciers in the park today date to much more recent (rela- tively) times: a neoglaciation period ap- proximately 600 to 700 years ago. Town of Jackson - $679,000 Aspens Condo - $750,000 EIGHT OF THE Lower 48 states have 2 Bedrooms | 1 Bath | 912 Sq. Ft. | 0.18 Acres 2 Bedrooms | 2 Baths | 1,116 Sq.Ft. | Rental Zone glaciers. Of those, Wyoming has the third most; only Washington and 185 W. Broadway Jackson Hole, WY Montana have more. The other states are SUMMER 2018 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE 73 Oregon, California, Nevada, Colorado, and Idaho. Within Wyoming, the Tetons have fewer glaciers than the Wind River Range, which has about forty peaks higher than 13,000 feet and twenty-five named glaciers. The Bighorn Mountains in north-central Wyoming have one glacier, and the Absaroka Range northeast of Jackson Hole claims two. Throughout the West, glaciers are retreating. At best, a handful are tenuously classified as “active.” An active glacier is defined not by its gaining volume but by its movement, such as developing crevasses or calving. If any of the active glaciers in the West are gaining volume in addition to mov- ing, it is in amounts too small to be measured. In Montana’s Glacier National Park, the NPS website says that glacier re- cession models indicate the park will be without any active Terminology glaciers by 2030. GTNP researchers think the same could be true for Glacier: A slow-moving mass of ice formed by accumulation and their park. Studies performed here indicate all the glaciers compaction of snow. in Grand Teton are losing volume, but some are still mov- Permanent snowfield: Accumulation of snow that doesn’t totally ing and, hence, are active. GTNP’s active glaciers include melt in summer. This can turn into a glacier if snow compacts to ice the Teton, Middle Teton, and Falling Ice glaciers. Others, and begins moving. Sometimes called a “young glacier.” Temporary snowfield: A snowfield that, by the end of summer, has like Teepee and Petersen Glaciers, park researchers say are totally melted. “probably not” moving anymore. Ablation zone: The area(s) of a glacier that are typically, but not always, near its toe and which melt, reducing the glacier’s size. IN 2017, CASKEY was hired as GTNP’s physical sciences Accumulation zone: The area(s) of a glacier where snow and ice branch chief, a lengthy title that means he’s responsible for build, increasing the glacier’s size. researching the park’s geology, air quality, and hydrology Equilibrium zone: Where accumulation and ablation balance—a (glaciers fall under the final category). He’s the first to hold rising equilibrium line means a glacier is receding. that title, but not the first to undertake such work. Caskey Active glacier: A glacier that is moving. came to GTNP after working as a hydrologist in Lander for Dead glacier: A glacier that is no longer moving. the Shoshone National Forest. Before that, he worked in Laramie as a district hydrologist for the Medicine Bow National Forest. Caskey was born in Alaska, grew up in Michigan, and earned a Master of Science de- gree from Colorado State University in geosciences.