British Columbia Hiking So many reasons for hiking north of the border By Andrew Engelson

I once took a trip to the fire lookout at chiefelbein S

Desolation Peak, high above Ross Lake ave D in the North Cascades. The day was brilliant, and you could see for miles around: the Picket Range, the imposing face of Hozomeen and peak after peak in British Columbia’s Coast Mountains. Inside the lookout, one could still see the old circular fire-sighting map. Looking at the map, I noticed a curious thing. Half the map was blank. Canada was a gray spot. Apparently, we’re blind to anything north of the 49th parallel. That map sums up for me the igno- rance we in Washington have for what’s going on north of the border. Quick, can you name the premier of B.C.? (It’s Gor- don Campbell. I had to look it up.) But there’s no reason to ignore the fan- caption tastic hiking found in B.C. Vancouver is a mere 3-hour drive from the Puget Sound area, and many hikes out of Whistler or Wedgemount Lake, Garibalidi Provincial Park. British Columbia’s trails offer stun- points east of Vancouver aren’t as far as ning glaciated scenery, diverse ecosystems and many opportunities for solitude. you might think. You’ll find a variety of ecosystems in certificates for your children. Bryceland’s 103 Hikes in Southwestern B.C.: rain forests and glaciated peaks Also note that as Vancouver prepares British Columbia, and Rich Lander’s 100 predominate on the west crest. Eastern for the Olympics in 2008, expect serious Hikes in the Inland Northwest. B.C. boasts drier climes, but as you construction delays. Add at least 2 hours Getting up-to-date topographic move further east, you enter moister and driving time to Whistler from Vanouver maps is a near impossibility in Canada. wilder country. Places where grizzlies during highway construction. Many maps published by the Geologi- and mountain caribou roam. Following are a series of brief articles cal Survey are out of date, so take care Why should you make the trip across on day hikes and overnight trips in B.C. when navigating with them. In Seattle, the border? According to Jack Bryceland, We’ve chosen not to cover Vancouver Is- try Metsker Maps at (206) 623-8747 author of 103 Hikes in Southwestern land to keep things simple. The wonder- or www.metskers.com. Other sources British Columbia, “Cross-border travel ful West Coast Trail on the western shore for maps and information in Vancouver brings people together more than it of Vancouver Island is great multi-night include Wanderlust Traveller’s Store separates them.” trip. You can find more on the WCT in (866) 739-2182, Mountain Equipment In addition, B.C. trails don’t seem to be the July 2005 issue of Washington Trails, Co-op (Canada’s version of REI), (604) as heavily travelled as their Washington or online at www.wta.org/~wta/maga- 872-7858, and the Vancouver office of the counterparts. Don’t expect solitude on a zine/1121.pdf. Geological Survey, (604) 666-0529. day hike minutes from Vancouver, but in There are smattering of decent Jack Bryceland laments the fact that B.C.’s vast provincial parks, you’ll find hiker-created websites about B.C. hik- there’s no equivalent of WTA in British plenty of opportunities to be alone. ing, including http://vancouverhiking. Columbia. “British Columbia does not You don’t need a passport to travel to tripod.com. Provincial Park websites are have as good a system as Washington B.C. (although Homeland Security is even more difficult to navigate than U.S. for looking after its trails. Maybe you looking to change that). You are required National Park websites. can come up and teach us some good have two pieces of I.D., and also birth Two books are essential reading: Jack lessons.”

July 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS  Cheam Peak Great B.C. Day Hikes Chilliwack area Since I live in the Chilliwack area A trail just minutes from Vancouver, a 60 miles east of Vancouver, I may be somewhat biased in favour of my home remote 8,000-foot summit and much more turf. However, for hikers from northern Washington state it is easier to get to than

rycelan d the Squamish-Whistler area; particularly B

ack if the Sumas border crossing is utilised. J My pick in this area would have to be Cheam Peak. It is the predominant sum- mit visible in the eastern Fraser Valley. The old approach from the north (which, one hundred years ago, saw as many as one hundred locals ascend 7,000 feet to the summit) is no longer viable, so logging roads from the south are now used. The approach is not particularly attractive and the trail up through the meadows is just average. But the views from the summit are eye-popping! It seems like you could throw a stone to Top of the world: two young hikers atop Cheam Ridge. The summits you’ll see here Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker they include Knight Peak, Welch Peak, Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker. seem so close. By Jack Bryceland ite monolith is a psychological reward: Round trip: 6 miles the views are the icing on the cake. Al- Elevation gain: 2,175 feet though you are only just above 2,000 feet, Hikable: July-Oct. Hanes Valley there are remarkably panoramic views: Near Vancouver back down Howe Sound and over to the With a base in Vancouver, a hike that Sunshine Coast; up the Squamish River exemplifies the instant urban-wilderness valley to the Tantalus Range; north to the Mount Outram interface is Hanes Valley. Done clock- glaciated summits of Mount Garibaldi Manning Provincial Park wise, as it is described the 5th edition and Mount Mamquam. This day hike is a stretch to get to, at of 103 Hikes in Southwestern B.C. one Round trip: 5.6 miles 100 miles east of Vancouver. But it’s such starts with the Grouse Mountain gondola a winner it begs inclusion in this list. in the company of well-heeled tourists Elevation gain: 1,980 feet Outram is an 8,000-foot summit with but rapidly transitions into Vancouver’s Hikable: March-Nov. some fine alpine terrain on the ascent; back-yard wilderness: some trail, some capped by a neat little rocky ridge to boulder-field, some creek-crossing and the top. Since this peak is on the edge some great views. At hike’s end, arrive Joffre Lakes Trail of the Interior Dry Belt the views are in a Regional Park in the company of North of Whistler predominantly of the North Cascades sightseers and dog-walkers. All capped Forty miles north of Whistler, on the to the south; with Hozomeen and Jack by an urban bus-ride back to your car. Duffey Lake Road, is the Joffre Lakes Mountain standing out. Round trip: 11 miles Trail. What makes the Duffey Lake area Round trip: 11.2 miles Elevation gain: 3,610 feet such a popular destination for outdoor recreation is the paved road to elevation Elevation gain 5,990 feet Hikable: Aug.-Sept. 4,000 feet. The Joffre Lakes Trail leads Hikable: July-Sept. you upward alongside three alpine lakes; each one more spectacular than the last. Stawamus Chief The final lake has the Matier Glacier Squamish Jack Bryceland lives in Chilliwack, hanging dramatically above it. B.C. and is the author of 103 Hikes Based out of Vancouver or Squamish, Round trip: 6.8 miles in Southwestern British Columbia the hike to the top of the Stawamus Chief, (Greystone/The Mountaineers, $14.95, although a short day, is very worthwhile. Elevation gain: 1,200 feet 2001). Knowing that you are the top of this gran- Hikable July-Oct.

 WASHINGTON TRAILS July 2006 Gwillim Lakes and Backpacking B.C. Silver Spray- Five spectacular overnight trips beckon Woodbury Basin Valhalla and Kokanee Provinicial Parks chiefelbein

S Approximately four hours north of ave

D Spokane near the artsy town of Nelson, BC are two hiking jewels, Kokanee Gla- cier and Valhalla Provincial Parks. Trails lead to incredible high alpine vistas reminiscent of the North Cascades. The difference is these parks have a truly wild feel because man is not at the top of the food chain. My favorite hikes (well described in 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest by Rich Landers) are Gwillim Lakes in Valhalla Provincial Park and Silver Spray-Woodbury Basin in Kokanee Provincial Park. These hikes take you to towering granite peaks and glaciers in the Canadian Selkirks. Cabin accom- modations are available on a first-come- first-served basis in Kokanee—although On the shore of Wedgemount Lake, Garibaldi Provincial Park. Imagine yourself on I generally prefer the solitude of tent the shores of a turquoise lake surrounded by glaciated peaks. Need we say more? camping. These trails usually don’t melt off until July and snows return by early October. Also, be aware that trails will Wedgemount Lake no views, but you’ll appreciate the cool occasionally close due to excessive bear shade beneath large trees, as the route Garibalidi Provincial Park activity. Call ahead to the Nelson office climbs quickly. Make no mistake…this of B.C. Parks at (250) 354-6333.. Under two hours north of the city of trail is steep, but the “bang for the buck” Vancouver, Garibaldi Provincial Park When hiking in grizzly country, be is unparalleled. Suffering and sweat are aware of your surroundings and make boasts some of the most stunning and quickly forgotten, replaced by views of beautiful alpine environments in all of plenty of noise. Note that the bear spray Wedgemount Creek dropping nearly sold in the U.S. in not legal in Canada. British Columbia. It’s all here…rugged 1,000 vertical feet. And all fatigue is volcanic mountains, icy glaciers, deep A less potent variety can be purchased replaced by visual exuberance when across the border. turquoise lakes, old growth forests, you reach a small pass and look down alpine flower meadows, clear running Yes, there is a risk to hiking in grizzly on your objective: the turquoise jewel country. But personally I feel that we rivers. The park is popular, but at 480,000 of Wedgemount Lake lying in a basin acres, with a little effort it’s not difficult are steadily extracting the “wild” from beneath the park’s highest peak, Wedge “Wilderness.” It’s a privilege to live in to find lonely wandering. Mountain. The setting is distinctly alpine A good introduction to Garibaldi a part of the world where one can still and over-the-top jaw-dropping. Once find wolves, grizzly bears and mountain Provincial Park is a day trip or backpack you’ve regained your composure find to Wedgemount Lake. 90 miles north of caribou. —Kenneth Mondal a place to pitch your tent or stay in the Round trip: Gwillim Lakes: 6.8 Vancouver and near the town of Whistler, small mountaineering cabin. Wander access to the trailhead is reached by a the basin down to find dainty flowers, miles; Silver Spray-Woodbury rough road. Depending on conditions, stroll down to the edge of the lake, or Basin: 14 miles two wheel drive vehicles may have to hike an easy climber’s trail to the toe of Elevation gain: Gwillim Lakes: pull up and park short of the trailhead a glacier. —Dave Schiefelbein (this was the case during an outing last 1,850 feet; Silver Spray: 3,400 summer which added a short distance Round trip: 8.7 miles feet to the hike via the road). Elevation gain: 3,800 feet Hikable: July-mid Oct. The trail begins in forest with little to Hikable: July-Sept.

July 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS  the lakes basin, or by riding the resort Barrier: the loose pile of volcanic debris Rim Trail shuttle and walking to your base camp. that holds in the waters of Garibaldi Cathedral Provincial Park —Tim Gould Lake. From the lake one can look west Cathedral Provincial Park’s Rim Trail Loop trip: 12 miles across the Cheakamus and Squamish combines the best of alpine wander- Elevation gain: 4,265 feet valleys to the wild Tantalus Range. ing, scenes of basalt and granite rock South from the lake the view is of Mount formations punctuated by larch forests, Hikable: July-Oct. Garibaldi’s glaciated north slopes and the and views of turquoise-colored lakes. Garibaldi Nevé: a classic local weekend This loop trail and its connecting routes Garibaldi Lake, Black ski traverse. North of the lake is the iso- offer various options for encircling the lated volcanic plug of Black Tusk which Cathedral Lakes, which form the core was visible from several points on the area of Cathedral Park. An entire day is Tusk, Panorama Ridge Garibaldi Provincial Park highway as one drove up the east side needed to appreciate the diverse scenery of Howe Sound. along the 19 km (12 mi) route as it varies One can day-hike to Garibaldi Lake but then one is seeing only the well- There are so many stunning, visually- in elevation between 1,950 and 2,550 distinct features to this area that it can meters (that’s 6,400 and 8,365 feet for worn edge of its visual beauty. A camp at Taylor Meadows allows an ascent of be busy on summer weekends. So if one those of us south of the border) while can arrange a mid-week trip it is usually looping around all the major lakes. Black Tusk and/or a hike up the appro- priately-named Panorama Ridge and/or more pleasant. —Jack Bryceland Expect to find mountain goats along Round trip: To Taylor Meadows the trail and be ready to yield the right- a hike past Helm Lake to Cinder Cone. of-way to them, but steer clear of the Another attraction of this area, if one can camp, with side trips to near vertical drops to sparkling lakes arrange two parties, is to do a crossover: Garibaldi Lake, Black Tusk, and below. one group having access by Rubble Creek Panorama Ridge: 27.6 miles Numerous camping sites are set back and egress by Helm Creek; the other group reversing that. Elevation gain: 7,700 total from the shore of Lake of the Woods and including side trips Quiniscoe Lake in the basin beneath The access trail from the west ascends the Rim Trail. These camping areas the north side of Rubble Creek past the Hikable: July-Oct.  provide excellent base camps for several days of roaming amid wildflowers in mid-summer or colorful larches

in early autumn. The crowds were chiefelbein S

sparse, yet the weather conditions ave were superb when I visited in early D September in between the flowers and the autumn color. The Cathedral Lakes Resort, a modest lodge located next to Quiniscoe Lake, provides alternative accommodation for those looking for a luxury experience in the wilderness. It’s reached from the Ashnola Valley below by a restricted access one-lane dirt road over which resort shuttles travel only two or three round trips per day. Cathedral Provincial Park is located southwest of Keremeos, in between Manning Park and the Okanagan River valley. From BC Highway 3, a narrow paved and then gravel road leads 23 km (14 mi) along the Ashnola River to the Cathedral Lakes Resort base camp and trailhead for the Lakeview Trail. One can reach the core area via the 16 km (10 mi) Lakeview Trail The Silver Spray hike in Kokanee Provincial Park offers miles of wandering through which climbs 1,300 m (4,265 feet) to jagged granite peaks. And, to add to the wildness, it’s active grizzly country.

 WASHINGTON TRAILS July 2006