Cork's Coastal Foodtrails
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CORK’S COASTAL FOOD TRAILS Welcome FANCY A GREAT BREAKFAST OF ORGANIC FREE RANGE EGGS, LOCALLY PRODUCED BACON AND SAUSAGES AND THE INTERNATIONAL SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT BEGAN IN IRELAND WHEN THE FIRST CONVIVIUM SET UP IN THE REGION TEN BUTCHER’S BLACK PUDDING? HOW ABOUT A FEAST YEARS AGO AND HAS SINCE SPREAD TO CORK CITY, EAST CORK, AND THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. WEST CORK CERTAINLY LED OF FISH, FRESH FROM THE WATERS OF THE ATLANTIC? THE WAY, BUT NOW THE WHOLE OF CORK COUNTY IS RICH WITH ARTISAN AND SPECIALIST PRODUCE. WHATEVER YOUR CULINARY PENCHANT, YOU’LL FIND IT ALL IN CORK. HERE IS IRELAND’S FLAGSHIP FOOD REGION, WITH A GOURMET REPUTATION AMONG THE FINEST IN EUROPE. Cork’s food revolution set its roots in West Cork. The first artisans, often ‘blow-ins’, were the true Rebels of the county. Now the area has an array of farmers, growers, charcutiers, fish smokers and bakers. The international Slow Food movement began in Ireland when the first convivium set up in the region ten years ago and has since spread to Cork City, East Cork, and throughout the country. West Cork certainly led the way, but now the whole of Cork county is rich with artisan and specialist produce. CORK’S COASTAL FOOD TRAILS 3 TRAIL ONE: Cork City Food & Drinks Trail FOOD IS AN ESSENTIAL MIX OF CORK LIFE, THIS VIBRANT Exit the shop and turn left. At the bridge take a right, which house popular bars and restaurants which come alive in the evenings. The street’s formal name derives from the 18th CITY WELL KNOWN FOR MUSIC, THEATRE, LITERATURE will bring you down South Main St., one of the principal streets in medieval Cork where traders and sellers would century corn market that once stood at its Castle Street end. AND SPORT HAS A TREAT IN STORE FOR THE CULINARY have brought their wares. On your left you will notice Markets are part of the life and history of this street. Until the TOURIST. THE ENGLISH MARKET IN THE HEART OF THE a Tudor style building, once the site of the Beamish & 1960s, the street was a food and clothes market, run by the CITY IS A MUST FOR FOODIES. IN RECENT YEARS THERE Crawford brewery which was founded in 1792. This site ‘shawlies’ who were women dressed in the traditional Irish was used for brewing since at least 1650 and possibly as black shawl. The street market survives and is at its busiest on HAS BEEN A RESURGENCE OF INTEREST IN FINE FOOD early as 1500. Beamish stout remains very popular with Saturdays (9am - 3pm). AND IN WHOLESOME AND ORGANIC PROVISIONING. Corkonians. Continuing down Cornmarket St. you will come to a footbridge THIS RENEWAL OF INTEREST AND THE WIDESPREAD Continue down South Main St. where you will come to which spans the northern channel of the river Lee. Cross this bridge and turn left onto Pope’s Quay. Coming to Brown’s ENTHUSIASM TO ESTABLISH HIGH FOOD STANDARDS the junction of Washington St. This is a popular area for evening entertainment and restaurants such as Ireland’s Square, you will turn right up Shandon St. If you were to FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND MARKETS MIRRORS THE famous Café Paradiso (Tel: 021 4277939), a specialist continue along the quay you would find the Franciscan Well PIONEERING SERIOUSNESS AND PROFESSIONALISM OF vegetarian restaurant with an emphasis on seasonal Brewery (Tel: 021 4210130 www.franciscanwellbrewey.com) THE CITY’S 18TH CENTURY BUTTER MERCHANTS. produce which is located further down the street on your on North Mall. A Franciscan friary founded in 1229 once left at 16 Lancaster Quay. The street has other award stood in this area. A nearby well, legend has it, was said to winning restaurants such as Liberty Grill (32 Washington have curative properties and the brewers now draw on this to produce their chemical, additive and preservative free Larger, Begin at Tourist Office, Grand Parade St. Tel: 021 4271049), and nearby Fenns Quay (Fenns Quay, Tel: 021 4279527) as well as numerous coffee shops. Ale, Stout and Wheat Beers. Turn left and cross the street at the pedestrian lights. Crossing Washington St. continue down South Main St. On Shandon Street is one of the oldest continuously inhabited Continue over the Nano Nagle footbridge and turn right. your journey you will notice a number of bronze plaques on parts of Cork City and formed the link between Cork and the On your left is the Quay Co-op Organic & Wholefood the footpath which are a reminder of the numerous lanes rich agricultural land to the north of the city. As you walk Shop. This worker’s co-operative carries a range of organic which once deviated off this main medieval thoroughfare. up Shandon Street, you’ll pass the many food and outlet wines, organic cosmetics, supplements, herbal remedies Take a right at Castle street which will bring you to the stores from various countries across the world. This area was and essential oils. Fresh organic fruit and vegetables are junction of Cornmarket St. Just beyond this junction, on once the main cattle market for the city. Butchers, coopers, delivered every Monday, Wednesday and Friday and the ‘in- 26 Paul St. is The Natural Foods Bakery on your left which tanners and shoe and brogue makers were among the trades house’ bakers provide a range of fresh breads, rolls, cakes serves fresh bread, sandwiches and cakes; handmade with prominent in the area. Modern Shandon Street remains a and savouries daily to the shop and restaurant (located natural ingredients supplied from local producers. Their vibrant trading street, combining 19th century buildings with upstairs). All specialist dietary requirements are catered to bakery shop is located on the Pier Road in Blackrock, a 21st century life. from gluten free to vegan – this is a “must stop” for anyone suburb just east of the city. St Anne’s Church can be seen at the top of Church Street. who has specific needs or for those who enjoy wholesome, Cornmarket Street, popularly known as ‘The Coal Quay’, Beloved of Cork people, the pepper pot steeple is a folk healthy food. has many buildings that have been renovated and now symbol for the city. Known in Cork, as ‘the four faced liar’ the 4 CORK’S COASTAL FOOD TRAILS CORK’S COASTAL FOOD TRAIL 5 four clocks which adorn the steeple are rarely in harmony, Anise (contemporary Tel: 021 4551635); Isaacs (traditional announcing four different time readings. Irish with international influences Tel: 021 4503805) is located on MacCurtain Street. There are also numerous bars in the area; Down the street on the right from St Anne’s is The Butter some of whom play traditional music. Exchange, which was a commercial phenomenon; the largest Cross over Patrick’s Bridge and take a right down Lavitts Quay butter market in the world for much of the 19th century, until you come to Emmet place on your left which is the selling Irish butter to five continents! It was the butter location of Cork Opera House and the Crawford Gallery. Emmet industry which built the prosperity of Cork. Today, the Cork Place was once a dock servicing the city’s ocean-going trade. Butter Museum re-tells this story. Beside the Exchange is Having browsed the collection at the gallery, you could pop the 1855 Firkin Crane building. The Firkin Crane was used by in for a bite in the Crawford Gallery Café (Tel: 021 4274415) the Butter Exchange to wash and weigh (crane) the butter which is run by those involved in the Ballymaloe House & barrels (firkins). Its distinctive rotunda shape was created Cookery School in East Cork. to gather rainwater from the roof. Today it is a cultural and Leaving the gallery, take a right and cross over Academy St. and dance entertainment venue. into Paul St. This area to your left is known as the Huguenot At the Firkin Crane, take a left down John Redmond St. Quarter. The Huguenots, who settled in Cork in the 17th On your right you will notice Linehan’s Sweet shop (37A century, built their church here in French Church St. and today John Redmond Street Tel: 021 4507791). Linehan’s have you can see the remains of their restored graveyard in Carey’s been supplying Cork for generations with old-fashioned Lane. The area around Paul St. has many interesting cafes, boiled sweets such as clove rocks, butter nuggets and apple THE BUTTER EXCHANGE...WAS THE LARGEST BUTTER boutique stores and attracts many street preformers. In French drops. Continue down John Redmond Street and take a left MARKET IN THE WORLD FOR MUCH OF THE 19TH CENTURY Church St. is O’Connail Chocolates. Casey O’Connaill, from his at Camden Quay. The river Lee is the second largest river store in Carrigaline (just south of the city), produces truffles, in Ireland and Cork Harbour is one of the largest natural SELLING IRISH BUTTER TO FIVE CONTINENTS... bars, novelties, seasonal treats, cooking and drinking chocolate harbours in the world which facilitated the importing and all of which are available here in his city centre store. exporting of goods and today it is still a busy working Walking down French Church St. enter Patrick St. or ‘Pana’ as port. In the 17th and 18th centuries merchant families it is more locally known. The great thoroughfare of Patrick energetically developed the city, many became prosperous St. the lifeblood of the city, began life as a waterway; it was and influential: they were known as ‘merchant princes’ only covered over in the early 19th century.