THUMB DIRECTORY TAB arranged the inpriceorder– scrollthrough season. a significantprice hike duringthetourist the country,and popular touristcentres see for allbudgets, butrates varywidelyaround ers orkings).Mosttownshave something former palacesof (princelyrul- with concrete floors andcoldshowers tothe all budgets, fromgrungybackpacker hotels India hasarange of accommodation tosuit CONTENTS Directory 1124 © LonelyPlanetPublications ACCOMMODATION ia 1154 1160 1153 1153 1153 Work 1162 1151 Women Travellers Volunteering 1155 Visas Travellers withDisabilities Travel Permits Tourist Information 1139 Toilets 1152 Time 1152 Telephone 1151 1139 Solo Travellers Shopping 1144 Post 1143 Photography 1142 Money 1140 1134 Maps 1140 1136 1138 Legal Matters Laundry 1139 Internet Access Insurance 1139 1131 Holidays 1138 1129 1134 Gay &Lesbian Travellers Food 1138 1128 Festivals &Events Commissions Embassies &High Discounts Dangers &Annoyances Customs 1131 Courses 1129 Climate Charts Children 1128 Business Hours comdto 1124 Accommodation Accommodation listingsin thisbookare hotel bathrooms, see the hotel bathrooms,see p1127 . Soundpollu- smell of mouldysocks.For thelow-downon rooms atcheaper hotels unlessyoulike the to inspectafew roomsfirst. Avoid carpeted go uptoUS$150ormore. fromaroundRs1900and and doublesstart rooms fromRs450to1800;top-endsingles range fromRs300and1300,double from Rs200to600;midrange singlerooms rooms range fromRs100to400,anddoubles ing ranges: inbudget single establishments, most hotels fallsomewhere withinthefollow- to pinpointexactaccommodationcosts,but you travel aroundthecountry,soitishard often times. atthese essential –advancebookingsaretheir rates in season Note thathotels inresort townscantriple If therates are thiswillbeindicated. seasonal, indicated.don’t includetaxes unlessotherwise rates and this bookare onhigh-season based costs intheareas youintend visiting.Tariffs in individual chapters togauge accommodation name of yourpreferred hotel, andconfirm customers. Make sure thatyouknow the shaw drivers whobringthemunsuspecting ellers, andrick- payingcommissions totaxi name of trav- a thrivingcompetitortoconfuse jasthan, Varanasi), hotels often ‘borrow’the your bookingthedaybefore youarrive. deposit are usuallyfine,butcalltoconfirm byphonewithouta check out.Reservations 10am ornoon),whileothers give you24-hour hotels have afixed check-out time(usually the check-out timewhenyoucheck in–some go tothenearest ATM andpaycash.Verify sion of yourcredit card.Ifthehotel insists, wary of anyrequest tosignablankimpres- deposit atcheck in–askforareceipt andbe hotels require cash.Mosthotels askforan hotels and somemidrange places;budget faceonto abusyroad. that doesn’t pack good-qualityearplugsandrequest aroom tion canbeapain(especiallyinurbancentres); and accommodationpreferences. yourbudgetlistings tofindplacesthatmeet Room qualitycanvarywithinhotels sotry Prices foraccommodationv0arywidelyas Be aware thatintourist hotspots(egRa- Be Credit cardsare accepted atmosttop-end varywidelyacross India–see Hotel tariffs exact

DIRECTORY 1125 and and Week, Sunday . Regional English- . Regional the Economic Times For more accommodation reviews and rec- accommodation reviews For more ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the in- sider lowdown on the best places to stay, and thorough and independent. are reviews BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE ONLINE BOOK ACCOMMODATION Note that some cheaper hotels lock their hotels that some cheaper Note Not all cheap hotels are characterless. Every Every characterless. are hotels Not all cheap a challenge. Let know in advance if the hotel a challenge. arriving or coming back to your room you are in the evening. late CAMPING in India, official camping sites few are There with gar- find hotels can usually but campers for a nominal fee they can camp dens where and use the bathroom facilities. Wild camp- the only accommodation option ing is often you’ll In mountain routes. areas, on trekking camps, with tented also find summer-only accommodation in semipermanent ‘Swiss bathrooms. with attached tents’ so often you stumble across a budget or mid- or across a budget you stumble so often – an old house gem from the colonial range . a ’s era or the fading wing of hotels cheapest the mountain areas, In remote traditional wood or stone houses, often are many than and charm character with more places. expensive staff of normally at night. Members doors sleep in the lobby but waking them up can be and Frontline, India Today, Outlook Traveller. Hindustan Times, Times of India, Indian Express, Times of India, Indian Express, Hindustan Times, . o DIRECTORY •• Accommodation . For India-related travel articles, travel get . For India-related There are also private channels broadcasting news, music, current affairs, talkback and more. affairs, talkback and more. channels broadcasting news, music, current private also are There cable TV; TV HBO and MTV. CNN, Star Movies, English-language channels include BBC, appear in most major English-language dailies. radio) details programme (and Pioneer, Asian Age, Hindu, Statesman, Telegraph Hindu, Asian Age, Pioneer, found nationwide. publications are language and local-vernacular (one crore = 10 million). (one crore sockets are also found). Blackouts are common, particularly the monsoon. during common, are also found). Blackouts sockets are Outlook

news. transmits local and international nationally All India Radio (AIR) Government-controlled The national (government) TV broadcaster is Doordarshan. More people watch satellite and and TV watch satellite people is Doordarshan. More broadcaster (government) national The the -language dailies include English Major in printed reports are current-affairs Incisive lakhs likely to hear are: (one lakh you’re = 100,000) and crores Terms Officially India is metric. the three-round-pin variety (two-pin Electricity and sockets Hz is 230V to 240V, 50 are AC,

„ „ „ „ „ PRACTICALITIES PRACTICALITIES „

Midrange hotels usually offer comforts comforts usually offer hotels Midrange as an English-language movie channel and channel movie as an English-language noisy news. Some places offer international that cool air by blowing it over ‘air-coolers’ than nothing, but better They’re cold water. air-conditioning. to real no challenge such as carpets and TVs,such usually with doz- as well Bollywood movies of channels ens of because they don’t have foreigner-registration foreigner-registration because they don’t have forms. an oyster-eating contest. Away from tourist contest. an oyster-eating foreigners may not take hotels cheaper areas, policy – some cheap places have sheets with places have policy – some cheap at holes and stains than a string vest more may not have windows. Bringing your own may not have sheets liner) is a sound (or a sleeping-bag fans, and better rooms have electric mosquito rooms have fans, and better rooms though or window nets, cheaper killers offer rooms with private bathrooms of varying bathrooms of rooms with private offer standards, though dripping taps and leaky ceiling have common. Most rooms sinks are concrete blocks. Shared bathrooms are usually bathrooms are blocks. Shared concrete most places hotels; only found at the cheapest BUDGET & MIDRANGE HOTELS BUDGET & MIDRANGE HOTELS modern are hotels and midrange Most budget tions in this book are indicated by indicated tions in this book are homes and numerous colonial properties dis- Standout Raj op- playing faded British charm. As well as conventional hotels, there are some are there hotels, well as conventional As guesthouses in traditional village charming Accommodation Options Accommodation Options that you have been right to the taken hotel that you have ). p1133 ( you pay the driver before lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY travellers of inpossession anongoing train Most large have train stations basicroomsfor RAILWAY ROOMS RETIRING Kottyam p979), Kochi and Kashmir; andAllepey ( andLadakh Zanskar taka; p374 ) inJammu in Madhya Pradesh; ( p899 ) inKarna- tions inthisbookincludeKhajuraho in theregional chapters. theentries volved schemes, orsee inhomestay the localtouristoffice forlistsof familiesin- middle-classhomes.Contact to comfortable and-stone hutswithhole-in-the-floor toilets cooked range meals.Standards frommud- often provide blisteringly authentic home- cities aswellcountyareas, andtheowners popu lar inIndia. There are in guesthouses withalocalfamilyisincreasinglyStaying PAYING GUESTS HOMESTAYS &ACCOMMODATION FOR available thestate tourismoffice. through are lous heritage properties.Details normally of more expensive hotels, includingsomefabu- governmentsficient. Somestate alsorunchains tends tobefriendlybutsomewhatinef- service ments –roomstend tobecheap andclean, chowkidar andyou’llhavefrom localofficials tofindthe rooms, butpermission issometimesrequired lers ifnogovernment the need employees placesmayaccepttravel-rest These houses. Works Department)bungalowsandforest PWD(Public dak bungalows,circuithouses, lic workers, knownvariouslyasrest houses, of fortravelling guesthouses officialsandpub- The Indiangovernment anetwork maintains TOURIST BUNGALOWS GOVERNMENT ACCOMMODATION & cheap dormbeds. ernments andrailwayretiring roomsalsooffer hostels. Touristbungalowsrunbystategov- and theSalvationArmy,HI-associate handful of hostels runbytheYMCA, YWCA dormsaresingle women.Better foundatthe drunken drivers –notidealconditionsfor arethese often mixed andmay befullof Many hotels have cheap dormitories,though DORMITORY ACCOMMODATION 1126 Periyar There are allover homestays India. Op- ‘Tourist bungalows’are runbystategovern-

IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Cci; p07) Kla (Quilon; p1007), (Cochin;

Wildlife Sanctuary( p998 ) inKerala. (attendant) toopenthedoors.

95) Munnar ( p985),

Aapza p985), (Alappuzha;

10 and ( p1000)

( p679) did, itwouldhave tobefive tiger-skin rugs). havedon’t even aclassificationsystem (ifthey chainstar hotels tocolonial-erapalacesthat India hasplentyof top-endhotels, from five- TOP-END &HERITAGE HOTELS on smoking,drinkingandmakingnoise. of Alwaysabidebyanylocalprotocols staying. exercise judgmentabout theappropriateness are mainlythere forgenuine pilgrimssoplease places foradonation,butthese guesthouses) temples) and (Sikh (spiritual communitiesorretreats), gurdwaras Accommodation isavailable atsomeashrams TEMPLES &PILGRIMS’RESTHOUSES activities andcottages foraccommodation. upmarket hotels, sometimeswithadventure arethe mountains normallyjustcomfortable sports andorganised nightlife. ‘Resorts’in facilities, includingswimmingpools,water in GoaandKerala offering resort standard There are growingnumbers of beach resorts RESORTS ries orprivate rooms(24-hourcheckout). tures andthere isusuallyachoice of dormito- they’re forearly-morningtraindepar- useful sound of passengers andtrains.Nevertheless, butallare surprisingly pleasant, noisyfromthe ticket orIndrailPass. Someare awful,others are Officially, youare topaythedollar Officially, supposed (including Non-ResidentIndians,orNRIs). USdollarratesand separate forforeigners end hotels have rates rupee forIndianguests to sometravellers more thanothers. Mosttop- themuseum-like atmospherethough appeals a specialfeature of atmosphere, theirfadedRaj ice canbevariable. Many heritage hotels make Rooms andcatering are usuallyexcellent;serv- purified). the water canbedrunkbecauseit’sbeen and covering itwithasock(inthemorning, water withboiledwaterfilling yourdrinking still cold,improvise ahot-water bottle by once yougetbeneaththecovers. Ifyou’re used inmountainareas are amazinglywarm poisoning. The thick,mattresslike blankets due totheriskoffatalcarbon-monoxide ers forwarmth,buttheseshouldbeavoided Some mountainareas rely oncharcoal burn- CARBON-MONOXIDE POISONING dharamsalas lonelyplanet.com (pilgrims’

DIRECTORY 1127 Many hotels raise hotels their room tariffsMany annu- Many temple towns have additional peak towns have temple Many texts for details of other festivals. For any other festivals. for details of texts ar- your accommodation make festival, major in this Room rates well in advance. rangements outside the peak collected generally book were details have season, chapters but the regional on seasonalindividual areas. for rates & SERVICE CHARGES TAXES on taxes slap a variety of State governments added to accommodation, and thesehotel are your room, except at the cheapest the cost of vary from state to state and are Taxes hotels. up- Many chapters. detailed in the regional also levy hotels an additional ‘servicemarket (usually around 10%). Rates quoted charge’ exclude taxes chapters in this book’s regional otherwiseunless indicated. for a slight on the increase ally – be prepared provided. we’ve rates and the period before and after the monsoon and after and the period before in the plains (April to June and September foreign popular with In areas to October). an additional peak period over tourists, there’s At other times, these Christmas and New Year. discounts. It’s always significant offer hotels worth trying your luck and asking for a dis- seemscount if the hotel quiet. and pilgrim- seasons festivals around major in Octo- Puja festival During the Durga ages. ber, Bengalis to the mountains flock in their thousands. in… box See of tens the Festivals , has a useful DIRECTORY •• Accommodation

(www.incredibleindia.org) Terminology for hotel bathrooms varies across India. ‘Attached bath’, ‘private bath’ or ‘with ‘with bath’ or bath’, ‘private ‘Attached across India. bathrooms varies for hotel Terminology means that hot water ‘Running’, ‘24-hour’ or ‘constant’ water water. hot Not all rooms have that need to be switched heaters) electric geysers (water Many places use small, wall-mounted that advertise you. Sometimes the shower is ‘room with shower’ may be misleading Hotels otherwise indicated. bathroom unless their own private rooms have In this book, hotel

bath’ means that the room has its own ensuite bathroom. ‘Common bath’, ‘no bathroom’ or or ‘Common bath’, ‘no bathroom’ bathroom. ensuite that the room has its own bath’ means bathroom facilities down the hall. bath’ means communal ‘shared is only available ‘Bucket’ hot water (not always the case in reality). is available around the clock sometimes for a charge). in buckets for free, (sometimes rooms with a hot shower, it makes in sense to fill the provided Even use. on an hour before in case the shower suddenly runs cold. bucket with hot water disconnectshowers to cut costs, just a pipe sticking surreptitiously out of the wall. Some hotels of water. trickle a mere render while showers at other places KNOW YOUR BATHROOM YOUR BATHROOM KNOW with toilet paper supplied. toilets sit-down generally have in India hotels end and midrange Top- the norm and toilet paper are the tourist trail, squat toilets and in places off In cheaper hotels, or ‘floor’ toilets, as ‘Indian-style’, ‘Indian’ variously described Squat toilets are provided. is rarely you’ll places, In a few toilets. or ‘commode’ be called ‘Western’ variety may while the sit-down on the edge of the bowl. toilet with footpads ‘hybrid toilet’, a sit-down find the curious

In winter, hotels in the mountain provide in the mountain hotels provide In winter,

The Government of India tourism website, website, India tourism of The Government mertime in the mountains (June to October), SEASONAL VARIATIONS SEASONAL VARIATIONS in popular tourist hang-outs crank up Hotels their prices in the high season, usually which coincides with the best weather for the area’s various sights – normally sum- and activities Poisoning, opposite . opposite Poisoning, coal burning fires; see Carbon-Monoxide see Carbon-Monoxide coal burning fires; and you’ll get air-conditioning (AC). Blackouts (AC). air-conditioning and you’ll get and top-end places common – midrange are before first but check generators, usually have paying extra for TV and hot water. or wood for the open gas or electric heaters, char- Be of for an additional fee. careful fire, Rooms with private bathrooms cost aroundRooms with private If there a TV. get and you often twice as much, hot water of buckets is no running hot water, or to your room, either free can be delivered again twice as much Pay for a nominal charge. While it’s hard to give an overview of prices, the an overview of While it’s hard to give bathrooms. shared usually have rooms cheapest Costs Costs paying guests – click on the Royal Retreats paying guests – click on the Royal Retreats heading and browse through the list. Incredible India forts and castles that accept , list of rates in foreign currency or by credit card, but or by credit currency in foreign rates many places will accept rupees adding up to the dollar rate. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) free andchildren aged five to12pay half- On Indian trains,children underfourtravel DISCOUNTS only have cartoonsinHindi). language children’s channels (cheaper hotels market withEnglish- hotels also have cable TV activity programmes–inquire inadvance. Up- may offer baby-sitting facilitiesand/orkids’ charge, cotsare though rare. Upmarket hotels will provide anextrabed forasmalladditional Many hotels have ‘familyrooms’andalmostall ACCOMMODATION Practicalities tion of LonelyPlanet’s Children, LonelyPlanet’s See of diseases. monkeys andlocaldogs,which carryallsorts Alsokeep childrenaround traffic. awayfrom attention tohygieneandbe hotandcrowdedconditions.Paythese close required asthenormal risksare amplifiedin most Western nations,butextracautionis India isfarmore acceptingof children than CHILDREN in theregional chapters. arearound 8amto10pm.Exceptions noted you canrely onmostplacestobeopenfrom onSunday. Saturday andahalf-day Some larger have postoffices afulldayon andtillnoononSaturday. 5pm onweekdays, daysperweek. longer seven check locally.Foreign-exchange open offices branch hours varyfromtowntoso 10am tonoon(or1pm)onSaturday.Exact (till4pminsomeareas),weekdays andfrom business hours MondaytoSaturday. east. Airlineoffices generally keep tostandard some areas, Kashmir notably andthenorth- onSunday.Note thatcurfewsclose applyin openuntil6pmorlater;10am andstay some around 1pm.Shops generally openaround haveMost offices lunch anofficial hourfrom ally thefirst, andfourthof second themonth). Saturdays(usu- fices mayalsoopenoncertain earlier.open later andclose Government of- 5.30pm MondaytoFriday,butmanyoffices Official business hours are from9.30amto BUSINESS HOURS 1128 Restaurant openinghoursRestaurant varyregionally – areBanks openfrom10amto2pmon Main are postoffices openfrom10amto IETR • Bsns or ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY andthetravelling withchildren sec- formore advice. Thorn Tree forum Tree Thorn very Travel with vigilant (http://

bring alonganadequate stock.Note thatrabid advice). Ifyourchild takes specialmedication, your first lineof defence (see p1186 formore washing handswithsoaporrubbingalcohol is Avoiding isadailybattle– stomach upsets HEALTH milkychaisweet (tea). safe todrink.Somechildren alsowarmto fruit juiceandbottlesof soft drinkare usually of lotsof friedfood.Bottledwater, cartonsof theunhealthinessfied water, fruitcanoffset easily. As orwashedinpuri- longasitispeeled downfairly chips) potato goes chips (seasoned (paper-thin lentil-flour pancakes) andfinger koras (deep-fried battered vege dosas tables), is widelyavailable andsnackfoodsuch aspa- is anotherchallenge, Western though fastfood childrentoilet. Getting toeatunfamiliarfood restricted tothe(often cramped)restaurant India, nappy-changing facilitiesare usually have highchairs andchildren’s menus.Across but onlyupmarket placesandfast-food chains Children are welcomeinmostrestaurants, FOOD &DRINK aged under15insomestates). entry fee forchildren under12(orchildren far forinfantsand50%under-12s. price. Most airlinescharge 10%of theadult or baby food fromhome. Alsobring along fussy baby, consider bringing powdered milk large citiesand touristcentres. Ifyou’ve gota apers) andmilkpowder are available inmost baby productssuch asnappies(di- Standard TRAVEL WITHINFANTS nal airtravel cansave timeandtempers. mode of travel, especiallyforlongtrips.Inter- extremely rare. belts–are anykindof –orindeed seat seats with thechildren onyourlap.Note thatchild toadults,meaninglongjourneys their seat problem. Children maybeexpected togive roads.Travelon rough sickness isanother plenty of foodandtoiletstops, particularly roadtravelAny long-distance shouldinclude TRANSPORT in India. for mended jabsanddrugcourses children before departure aboutthecorrectly recom- arisk.Checkwithdoctor animals alsopose Trains are usuallythemostcomfortable Many touristattractionscharge areduced lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 1129 (the precursor (the precursor – a form of – a form of centre centre ( p966 )

The NGO SAATHI The NGO SAATHI marma ( p987 ) in Kottayam

( p781 ).

kalarippayat Long and short courses in Tibetan in Long and short courses in Tibetan ( p432 ) in Varanasi.

Hindi courses at the Bhasha Bharati Hindi courses at schools in Mussoorie Three- language to nine-month Tibetan Hindi and Tamil courses in Chennai ( p1036 ). p1036 courses in Chennai ( Hindi and Tamil ( p325 ).

Jaipur ( p172 ), Jhunjhunu ( p189 ) and p189 ( ), Jhunjhunu p172 ( ( p138 ).

Beginners’ courses in Hindi, Marathi Sanskrit and Short courses in Malayalam, Hindi and Sanskrit at Basic Hindi classes at ’s Central Hindi Major centres include the Vijnana Kala include the Vijnana Kala centres Major ( p222 ) have painting courses; Jaipur also has pottery classes. ) have painting courses; p222 ( offers courses in Bastar tribal arts near Jagdalpur ( p713 ). p713 courses in Bastar tribaloffers arts near Jagdalpur ( sword and shield fightingsword and shield incorporating ele- Ayurvedaments of and massage). to Chinese acupressure Sangham and the CVN Kalari Himachal Pradesh GanjMcLeod Kerala Mumbai at Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan Nadu Tamil Uttar Pradesh Uttarakhand ( p451 ). West Bengal ) from March to December. p538 courses in Darjeeling ( Martial Arts in the traditional Kera- available are Courses lan martial art of and holistic activities, and p115 for cooking p115 and holistic activities, and courses. Arts & Crafts Interesting arts and crafts courses: Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Languages lasting needcourses time to give Language ask for a minimum benefits – some courses time commitment. The following places offer courses: Delhi Directorate CLIMATE CHARTS CHARTS CLIMATE in the conditions climatic that vast is so India the ex- to those of little relation far north have south. Generally country speaking, the treme has a three-season the wet and year – the hot, charts. for climate p1130 the cool. See COURSES skills in India, new of You can learn all sorts from yoga and meditation to Indian cooking local courses, about and Hindi. To find out travel- at tourist offices, ask fellow inquire and notice and browse local newspapers lers, sports in adventure for courses p90 boards. See Language Institute Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre ( p987 ) near Kottayam. p987 Vijnana Kala ( Cultural Centre Vedi in Trivandrum. Vedi Cultural Centre Vedi DIRECTORY •• Climate Charts

Hill stations offer peaceful forest picnics, peaceful forest Hill stations offer Children will also enjoy spotting India’s will also enjoy spotting India’s Children

India’s bounty of festivals may also capture may also capture festivals India’s bounty of Beaches make great family outings. The family outings. The Beaches great make Theme parks and water parks are taking are parks Theme parks and water There are more good museums in Ben- more are There be spooked by the crowds. For festival details by the crowds. For festival be spooked texts in… boxed , and the Festivals p1136 see chapters. regional at the start of Nainital ( p474 ) and Darjeeling ( p530 ). p530 ) and Darjeeling ( p474 Nainital ( imagination, although some will your child’s ( p1089 ), Mt Abu ( p229 ), Shimla ( p282 ), ), p282 ( ), Shimla p229 p1098 ), ( ), Mt Abu p1089 Mussoorie ( ( p450 ), Kodaikanal ties such as paddle boating and pony rides. ties such Top spots include Ooty (Udhagamandalam; cooler weather and family-friendly activi- cooler weather and family-friendly tarakhand (Uttaranchal; p470 ) and Kashmir ) and Kashmir p470 tarakhand (Uttaranchal; ( p360 ). in Himachal Pradesh ( p292 and p317 ), Ut- sports. Skiing is possible water up for beach p317 and p292 Pradesh ( in Himachal best are found in Kerala, Goa, Karnataka and Goa, Karnataka found in Kerala, best are well set . Goa, in particular, is very larly those offering elephant rides, are also also rides, are elephant larly those offering ). p91 worth considering (see (Trivandrum; p965 ), safaris, particu- ). Wildlife Bengaluru p416 ( p894 ) and Lucknow ( Mumbai ( p779 ), Thiruvananthapuram ), ), Thiruvananthapuram p536 zoos in (or near) Darjeeling ( average p779 Mumbai ( are depressing but there are better-than- are but there depressing are exotic beasties – some of the country’s zoos zoos the country’s exotic beasties – some of off in a big way in India – head to Ahmeda- off bad ). ( p722 ), p475 Bengaluru ) and Nainital ( ( p894 ), p1087 Kanyakumari ( Guwahati ( p598 ), ( p943 ) and ) and p943 ), Hyderabad ( p598 Guwahati ( ). p493 ( p1033 ), Kolkata (Calcutta; p502 ) and Mumbai p502 ), Kolkata (Calcutta; p1033 child- have which ), some of p781 (Bombay; Old-fashioned displays. friendly interpretive ), p1035 in Chennai ( found ariums are planet galuru (; p886 ), Chennai (Madras; ), Chennai (Madras; p886 galuru (Bangalore; friendly museums and the atmospheric Red friendly museums and the atmospheric sound-and-light show. destinations are better for children than oth- for children better destinations are child- ) has a number of p127 – Delhi ( ers of sights, smells, tastes and sounds before be- sights, and sounds before smells, tastes of the country. Some ginning any trips around Sights & Activities Sights & Activities your trip for start days at the of few Allow a to acclimatise your child to India’s explosion high-factor sunscreen, a snug-fitting wide- a snug-fitting sunscreen, high-factor mat changing a washable hat and brimmed in Breast-feeding dirty surfaces. for covering Indian not condoned by public is generally society. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 1130 HYDERABAD JAIPUR DELHI DARJEELING BANGALORE -10 -20 -10 -20 -20 -10 -20 -10 -20 -10 C°F °C C°F °C C°F °C °F °C °F °C 10 10 40 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 30 30 20 20 20 20 20 0 0 0 0 0 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND IETR • Cuss ••Courses DIRECTORY Temp Temp Temp Temp 216m (708ft) 385m (1262ft) 2095m (6982ft) 914m (2998ft) 541m (1778ft) 16 24 32 in in in in in 104 8 32 0 0 0 14 68 86 50 4 104 104 104 104 32 32 32 32 14 14 14 14 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 50 50 50 50 4 4 4 4 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall 16 24 32 16 24 32 16 24 32 16 24 32 8 8 8 8 0 0 0 0 Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average Average Average 0 0 0 200 400 600 800 mm mm mm mm mm Goa musical instruments. p1146 forinformation about shopsselling if youmeantocontinue toplayathome;see provide instruments,but invest inyourown benefit frommusic courses. Mostcentres toget weeks anyern music,soallowseveral Indian music followsdifferent rulestoWest- Music &PerformingArts rmo (p867 ). Arambol MUMBAI (BOMBAY) LEH KOLKATA (CALCUTTA) THIRUVANANTHAPURAM -20 -10 -20 -10 -20 -10 -20 -10 C°F °C °F °C °F °C C°F °C 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 30 20 20 20 20 0 0 0 0 Courses inclassical Indiansingingand tablain JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 0 200 400 600 800 0 200 400 600 800 0 200 400 600 800 0 200 400 600 800 3486m (11440ft) Temp Temp Temp Temp 16 24 32 in in in in 8 0 0 0 104 104 104 104 32 32 32 32 14 14 14 14 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 50 50 50 50 4 4 4 4 11m (37ft) JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 6m (21ft) lonelyplanet.com Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall 63m (205ft) 16 24 32 16 24 32 16 24 32 8 8 8 0 0 0 Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average Average 0 0 200 400 600 800 0 mm mm mm mm 800 600 400 200 0 800 800 600 600 400 400 200 200 0 0 DIRECTORY 1131 (http://thorntree.lonely

Thorn Tree forum , where travellers often post warn- post often travellers , where For more information, see p1140 . p1140 information, see For more If you do choose to take drugs, useIf you do choose to take your Pradesh, Himachal of In the Kullu region Most bottled water is legit, but always en- Most bottled water Women travellers should also read the ad- should also read Women travellers dozens of travellers have disappeared or been disappeared have travellers dozens of in the hills, with suspicion falling murdered on local drug gangs; see Warning – Fatal are . Don’t assume strangers p303 Vacations, in your interest becauseharmless they share drugs. mountain. Drugs drugs are and other ‘recreational’ Marijuana and highly in India, illegal. A widely available bhang (mari- towns allow the legal sale of few but elsewhere, reasons, juana) for religious cannabis as severely possession of courts treat heroin. as possession of common sense. Be that the police target aware is drug users in bribe scams. Bhang foreign in food and drinks administered frequently in- leaving potent, that can be incredibly or vulnerable to robbery travellers toxicated accidents. have provided patients with more treatment treatment patients with more provided have payments larger than necessary to procure a insurance companies – get from travel 1990s, second the late In opinion if possible. killed in a dangerous were several travellers being after and Varanasi food scam in by restaurants with bacteria food spiked fed clinics. This scam has thank- to dodgy linked always the fully been quashed, but there’s reappear. it could chance the lid seal that the is intactsure and check bottle hasn’t been the tampered bottom of usewith. Crush plastic bottles after to prevent still, bring them being misused better or later, tablets or a filtration along water-purification adding to India’s plastic-waste to avoid system an appropriate amount of caution. Scams caution. Scams of amount an appropriate try to stay ahead dodgy characters as change and with other travellers the game, so chat of the latest of tourism officials to stay abreast Lonely seehazards. Also of the India branch Planet’s planet.com) encountered they’ve problems ings about on the road. . p1160 vice on Drink Contaminated Food & medical clinics some private years, past In ( p899 ) in

( p329 ). (dance),

( p193 ), Jaipur ( p172 ),

( p237 ). (traditional Keralan dance

bharathanatiyam ( p987 ).

( p324 ) and Bhagsu Various courses in Indian classical courses Various (traditional Sanskrit in drama)

DIRECTORY •• Customs ( p463 ).

kathakali kathakali Sitar (stringed tabla and instrument), Classical dance and musical instrument Courses in Classical Indian dance classes at Classical Indian Tabla, flute, singing and Kathak flute, singing (Indian Tabla, ( p894 ) in Hessaraghatta, and tabla (pair ) in Hessaraghatta, and tabla p894 ( kootiattam

Aurobindo Bhawan ( p502 ) offers classical ) offers p502 Aurobindo Bhawan ( Classical Indian dance classes in Indian dance classes Classical ( p222 ) and Courses in

Technically you’re supposed to declare any supposed to declare you’re Technically Trivandrum ( p966 ), and dance centres near Thrissur), and dance centres p966 Trivandrum ( ( p1017 ) and Kottayam classes in Rishikesh classical dance classes in Varanasi ( p432 ). p432 ( classical dance classes in Varanasi Mysore. opera) and be avoided with a bit of common sense common with a bit of and be avoided India has an unenviable reputation for for reputation India has an unenviable crime and scams, but most problems can from animals; see p1147 . p1147 from animals; see DANGERS & ANNOYANCES the export of antiques and products made antiques and products made the export of US$10,000 on arrival, and rupees should not However, this is rarely India. out of be taken on additional restrictions are policed. There amount of cash or travellers cheques over over cheques cash or travellers amount of There are no duty-free allowances when enter- no duty-free are There ing India from Nepal. may ask tourists to enter expensive items such such items expensive may ask tourists to enter on a as video cameras and laptop computers ‘Tourist Baggage Re-export’ form to ensure India when you depart. out of taken they are Visitors are allowed to bring 1L each of wine of bring 1L each allowed to are Visitors or 50 cigars or and spirits and 200 cigarettes Officials tobacco into India duty free. 250g of CUSTOMS CUSTOMS Ayurveda, meditation and other therapies. information. for more p100 See India has thousands of yoga centres offering offering yoga centres India has thousandsof and daily classescourses in as well as courses Yoga & Holistic Courses Yoga & Holistic Courses Uttarakhand Uttar Pradesh Tamil Nadu Tamil Rajasthan Kolkata Kerala Karnataka at Shruthi Musicalof drums) classes Works Himachal Pradesh Gujarat Gujarat ). p723 ( Ahmedabad lonelyplanet.com classical dance) courses in Pushkar music in McLeod Ganjmusic in McLeod Udaipur Indian dance classes. Indian dance classes. Nrityagram singing and various instruments in Puducherry musical ) p1040 ); Kalakshetra Arts Village ( p1060 (Pondicherry; dance and courses in classical Tamil in Chennai offers music. DIRECTORY not totravel to toIndia, butitmakes sense in Europe orAmerica,so thisisnoreason fundamentalism. to thesituationin Kashmir andglobalIslamic on majorrandom bombattacks cities,linked Bihar. hitbyanumberof Indiahasalsobeen cifically Kashmir, and thenortheast states particularly pronetoinsurgent violence–spe- areasous thananywhere butcertain are else, be aware of astheytravel aroundthecountry. in thepoliticalsituation,which visitors maynot markets. are Mostattacks linked tosmallshifts transport, religious centres, touristresorts and ongovernmentattacks infrastructure, public groups everywhere andbomb –assassinations triedandtestedsame techniques of terrorist cal representation. groupsemploythe These forincreasedarmed groupsfighting politi- Like manycountries,Indiahasanumberof Rebel Violence you don’twantpeopletowalkinuninvited! for members of theirparty –lockyourdoorif knock randomlyonhotel roomdoors looking dian holidaymakers travel inlarge groupsand In- players.tape Duringthetouristseason, to avoid beingdeafened bynoisyenginesand are onpublictransport Earplugs alsouseful request roomsthatfaceawayfrombusyroads. mare sleepers. Bringearplugsand forlight loud musiccanalladduptoawakingnight- leakyplumbingand noise, Shouting, traffic Noise streets atfestival time. acompanionbefore venturingseek ontothe gropedbyspaced-outblokes. to been It’swise at manyfestivals, andfemale travellers have also atraditionof guzzlingalcohol andbhang clothes specificallyforthisfestival. There’s Consider buyingacheap of set throwaway people have scarred been bydodgychemicals. water with and coloured dyelike andafew else, everyone doused get Foreigners ( p1137). than specialpilgrimservices. times, andtravel onconventional trainsrather extracareful aroundlargeBe crowdsatthese on temple processionsandtrainplatforms. year pilgrimsare crushedortrampledtodeath provides anincredible butevery spectacle, The massofsheer humanityatIndia’sfestivals Festivals 1132 International terrorism isasmuch of arisk duringtheHolifestivalCare isalsoneeded Most of thetime,Indiaisnomore danger- IETR • Dnes&Anyne ••Dangers&Annoyances DIRECTORY selling themtothetrader’soverseasselling repre- by carryingormailingthegoodshomeand the opportunityforyouto‘get rich quick’– anexportlicence.to obtain Andtherein lies pouring outsob stories about notbeingable tions totheirhome,free mealsetc,theybegin friendly andafter buttering youupwithinvita- suchtors schemes whopractise are deceptively and carpetsare favourites forthiscon.Opera- easily ataprofit elsewhere. Precious stones goodscheaplypurchase them inIndiaandsell be trueinvariably is. be fooled–anydealthatsoundstogood ofpromise achance toget rich quick.Don’t ate travellers fromtheirmoney,often withthe India isnotoriousfor scams designed to separ- Scams galand etc)and‘violence’onGoogle. as ‘Kashmir’ (orBihar, Assam, Tripura,Na- forkeywordsinformation bysearching such and Bihar( p551 ), butyoucanfindadditional Kashmir ( p352 ( ), thenortheaststates p595 Useful resources are listed in thechapters for ) international charities andlocalnewssources. risks –thebestsourcesof information are gers, whileembassiesoften exaggerate the involved intourismrarely admitthedan- before travelling areas. tohigh-risk People check situationcarefully thelocalsecurity racket ( opposite ). venir vendors are involved inthecommission are involved indishonest schemes, manysou- an ATM andavoid therisk. front of you.Alternatively, take outcashfrom any credit-card onthe counter transaction in left theshop.Insistthat after you have forphoneytransactions be used ies of thecredit-card imprintslip,which will reputation forsecretly runningoff extracop- ally legitimate; private souvenir shopshave a with acredit card . Government shops are usu- very carefulBe whenpayingforsouvenirs thepackagesend yourselffromthepostoffice. to homeaddresses. Ifyouhave anydoubts, high-value items forjunkwhenposting goods goods home. Shops have knowntoswap been materialise. See p177 formore details. what youpaidandthe‘representatives’ never exception, thegoodsare worthafractionof testimonials fromothertravellers. Without ataprofit.sentatives Many canprovide forged Be highly suspiciousof highly claimsthatyoucan Be While it’sonlya minority of traders who It alsopaystobecautiouswhensending the tradercarriesout lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 1133 leave your valuable documents and trav- leave In dodgy-looking hotels, put your money In dodgy-looking hotels, The safest place for your money and your The safest Unfortunately some travellers make their make some travellers Unfortunately policy is essential A good travel-insurance It is usually wise to peel at least US$100 off ing train or bus journeys; a friendly stranger stranger a friendly or bus journeys; ing train you a spiked offers up conversation, strikes drink (to send off you to sleep), makes then the inside at night, stay somewhere else. the inside at night, stay somewhere Touts & Commission Agents many businesses dependent on tour- With so hotels ism, competition is cut-throat. Many and shops drum up extra business by paying who bring tourists commission to local fixers stash; your main stash however, keep and Also, separate other valuables on your person. from small bills so you don’t publicly big notes cash when paying for wads of display large services into hotels. or checking belt under your pillow when you sleep, and never room when you go in your hotel cheques ellers Better out (even under your mattress). hotels and the YMCA for valuables, a safe will have a locker provide normally and other hostels you can use your own padlock. For where mind, you may also want to use your peace of locked are doors where own padlock in hotels If hotels). with a padlock (common in cheaper from room securely you cannot lock your hotel (see p1139 ); keep the emergency contact details the emergency ); keep p1139 (see handy and familiarise with the claims yourself your passport, photocopies of Keep procedure. separately from yourincluding the visa page, also useful (theseobtaining for passport are your airline ticket. of permits), as well as a copy to yourself.You could also email scans either in a money passport is next to your skin, If you shirt. under your pouch belt or a secure it in your carry your money in a wallet, keep never the back pocket front trouser pocket, often friend’). Bum bags are (the ‘pickpocket’s usually full of as they are by thieves targeted goodies. it away separately from your main and store with everything you have. Politely decline decline Politely with everything you have. stomach – by strangers offered drinks or food excuse. a convenient upsets are to by helping themselves money go further dormitories. For in care – take other peoples call the inter- cards, immediately lost credit for lost/stolen national lost/stolen number; contact the Amex or Tho- cheques, travellers ). p125 mas Cook office in Delhi ( DIRECTORYDangers & Annoyances ••

When buying a bus, train or plane ticket When buying a bus, train or plane ticket

Occasionally, tourists (especially those Occasionally, tourists (especially those Thieves tend to target popular tourist train to target tend Thieves Tours to ’s houseboatsTours from Delhi Be cautious of anyone offering tours to to tours Be anyone offering cautious of travelling solo) are drugged and robbed dur- drugged solo) are travelling most alert. take advantage of the confusion and crowds. of advantage take caution; another place to exercise Airports are to be at your unlikely a long flight after you’re routes, such as Delhi to Agra. Be as Delhi to Agra. extra alert such routes, often the train departs; thieves just before roof racks on buses is also a sensibleroof policy. to the metal baggage racks or the wire loops to the metal racks or the wire baggage found under seats; padlocking your bags to the locked (minipadlocks and chains are avail- are and chains (minipadlocks locked able at most train stations) and lock your bags Theft is a risk in India, as it is anywhere else. a risk in India, as it is anywhere Theft is On buses securely luggage and trains, keep bus or AC train berth and arrive to find a and arrive train berth bus or AC bog-standard bus or a less comfort- ordinary able sleeper seat. Theft & Druggings getting the ticket class you paid for. It is not It you paid for. class the ticket getting to book a deluxe uncommon for travellers anywhere other than the registered office of office of other than the registered anywhere certain you are the transport company, make extras (see p357 ). p357 extras (see have reported virtually being held prisoner reported have for unwanted dollars of hundreds and charged should definitely be avoided. Some travellers Some travellers be avoided. should definitely before you travel and make your own tour ar- your own and make you travel before to cut out these you arrive after rangements dodgy middlemen. you can do just as easily (and safely) on public on (and safely) you can do just as easily the security situation transport. Always check Some travel agents exploit travellers’ safety safety travellers’ exploit agents Some travel that extra cash from tours concerns to make Kashmir in Delhi and other traveller centres. centres. traveller in Delhi and other Kashmir

Many private travel agencies make extra extra make agencies travel private Many and for tours money by scamming travellers clear what is you are sure Make tickets. travel this in (get any tour included in the price of for hidden ‘extras’ charges writing) to avoid on. later Ganges River at Rishikesh. at Rishikesh. River Ganges Scams Transport in the sea and be careful of currents when currents of in the sea and be careful the sacred including any rivers, swimming in and there are drowning deaths each year. Al- year. each deaths drowning are and there anywhere swimming locally before ways check Swimming Swimming and currents rips dangerous can have Beaches lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY plies tofull-price tickets, fares sostandard for discount on domesticairtickets. Again, thisap- accommodation. YWCA members alsoreceive discountson times entitlesyoutodiscountrates. YMCA/ are partof theHInetwork;ancardsome- run bytheIndianYouthHostels Association most concessionsare onage. based Hostels Student cardsare of nowadaysas limited use Student &YouthTravel proof of age. cost of traintravel. Bringyourpassport as 60, you’re entitledtoa30%discountonthe discounts onotheraircarriers. Ifyou’re over discounted fullfares. Ask travel agents about ets onbudget airlinesare often cheaper than promotionalfares However, 25% off. andtick- travellers aged 65orover; Jet Airwaysoffers discounts ondomesticairtravel forforeign Indian AirlinesandSaharaoffer 50% Seniors DISCOUNTS terrain; see p97 formore information. before headingoff intopotentially dangerous guides andporters orjoininganorganised trek trekkers. Westronglyrecommend hiringlocal upforindependent risks andIndiaispoorlyset Trekking off thebeaten trackalwayscarries Trekking have beds. –they’llknowwhich places the peakseason tion whensomebigfestival ison,orduring you arrive inatownwithouthotel reserva- friend’s place’. ‘my brother’sshop’and‘specialdealatmy very scepticalof like phrases Be out yourself. ‘under renovation’ Checkthings or‘closed’. that refuse topaycommissions being‘full’, ity. You’lloften hearstoriesabout thehotels togaugethis isusuallyaruse yourvulnerabil- you’ve here times,as to India,say been several with touts–ifanyoneasksthisyourfirst trip alone andpaythenormalprice. than yourreal destination,soyoucanwalkin rickshaws todropyouatalandmarkrather commission. Toget or aroundthis,asktaxis (byasmuch as50%!)topaythefixer’sraised popular forareason –priceswillinvariablybe placestend thedoors. tobeun- through These 1134 Foreigners aged 30orunder receive a25% On theflipside,toutscanbebeneficialif areTrain andbusstations often swarming IETR • Dsons ••Discounts DIRECTORY .org; 2-2-11 Kudan Minami, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo1020074) Chiyoda-ku, .org; 2-2-11KudanMinami, Aldwych, LondonWC2B4NA) 5,00187Rome) Settembre Tiergartenstrasse 17,10785Berlin) Massachusetts AveMassachusetts NW,WashingtonDC20008) House Estate,Thimphu) House 2,Rd142,GulshanI,) 180 Molesworth St,Wellington) 180 Molesworth .nl; Buitenrustweg-2,2517KD,TheHague) ) Myanmar Japan Italy Israel Ireland Germany Alfred Dehodencq,75016 Paris) France Canada Bhutan Australia link) formore listings,includingconsulates. .in (clickonthe‘MissionsandPostsAbroad’ www.meaindia.nic missions worldwide–see The following represent justsomeof India’s Indian Embassies&HighCommissions EMBASSIES &HIGHCOMMISSIONS with alunch break 1pmand2pm. between operate from9am to5pmMonday toFriday, and otherlargeKolkata cities.Most missions nations operate consulatesDelhi, butseveral in Most foreign diplomaticmissions are in based Embassies &HighCommissions inIndia USA UK Thailand Rd, Colombo3) Galle Lanka Sri New Zealand Netherlands Nepal Hayarkon St,Tel Aviv 61033) 10110) Rd, 46SoiPrasarnmitr,23,Sukhumvit -bangkok.org; .net.mm; 545-547 Merchant St,Yangon).net.mm; 545-547Merchant 6 Leeson Park, Dublin6) K1M1C9) Ontario Rd,Ottawa, 10 Springfield Place,Yarralumla, 2600) Moonah ACT -india; 336 Kapurdhara Marg, Kathmandu) Marg, -india; 336Kapurdhara studying inIndiaget 50%off trainfares. budget airlinesmaybecheaper still.Students ( ( % ( % ( % ( ( ( % % % ( ( ( 020-7836 8484;www.hcilondon.net;IndiaHouse, % % % % 202-939 7000;www.indianembassy.org;2107 ( ( ( ( ( 06-4884642; www.indianembassy.it;ViaXX (Burma; % % % % 03-5291999; www.indembassy.co.il; 140 % 014-410900; www.south-asia.com/embassy 03-3262 2391;www.embassyofindiajapan 01-40 507070;www.amb-inde.fr; 15Rue ( 01-497 0843;www.indianembassy.ie; 613-744 3751;www.hciottawa.ca; 02-322162; www.eoithimphu.org;India ( % ( % 0512-206950; G5,DiplomaticEnclave, 0-2258 0300;www.embassyofindia 02-6273 3999;www.hcindia-au.org;3-5 030-257950; www.indianembassy.de; % 012-421605; www.hcicolombo.org; 36-38 02-9889339; http://199.236.117.161; 070-346 9771;www.indianembassy % 04-473 6390;www.hicomind.org.nz; 01-240633; www.indiaembassy lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY

Delhi 1135 Kolkata (Map (Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map 66502222; Delhi 44-24987896; (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map 22178273; 4th fl, 22178273; 4th fl, h apply 10am-noon, apply 10am-noon, (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map 011-24678822; 3/50F 011-24678822; 44-28535111; 44-28535111; Mumbai % 011-26118104; www % Delhi 011-26883170; www 011-26149411; www h 011-26878372; www 011-24197600; www 44-2857 4242; http:// Delhi 44-42192151; 20 % % 011-41019801; www.mfa % 24561224; 1 National 011-23327361; Barakhamba % 011-24676004; 2/50G % % % % % % % % % 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) (Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map (Map pp488-9 ; pp488-9 (Map h (Map p1034 ; 24407836; 18B Mandeville Gardens, (Map pp1030-1 ; pp1030-1 (Map 011-24198000; http://newdelhi.usem 8.30am-4pm); (Map pp132-3 ;

(Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Mumbai (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map % % (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map apply 9am-noon, collect 1-5pm) 011-23010201; www.slmfa.gov.lk; 27 011-23010201; www.slmfa.gov.lk; Kolkata h (Map pp1030–1 ; (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map Delhi (Map ; pp1030–1 (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Chennai (Map pp488-9 ; pp488-9 (Map Chennai

Delhi 8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri) 8am-4pm Mon-Thu,

(Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map h % Delhi

h Chennai Kolkata

011-41435701; www.maldiveshighcom.co.in; B2 www.maldiveshighcom.co.in; 011-41435701; 011-24192100; www.ukinindia.com; Shantipath, 23633611; Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd) Chennai

Rd); Alipore; Library Ave, % (Map pp132-3 ; bassy.gov; Shantipath, Chanakyapuri); Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, Delhi) Geminichennai.usconsulate.gov/; Circle, 220 Anna Salai); .eda.admin.ch; Nyaya Marg,.eda.admin.ch; Chanakyapuri, Delhi) .sahc-india.com; B18 Vasant Marg, Vasant Vihar, Delhi) .sahc-india.com; Marg, Vasant B18 Vasant Maker Chambers IV, 2nd fl, 222 Jamnalal Bajaj Rd, Nariman Point; UK USA Pakistan Singapore South Africa Sri Lanka Switzerland Thailand Maldives Myanmar Nepal Netherlands New Zealand 196 TTKwww.slmfa.gov.lk; Rd, Alwarpet); pp132-3 ; Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri) .holland-in-india.org; 6/50F Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, 6/50F Shantipath, .holland-in-india.org; Delhi) .thaiemb.org.in; 56N Nyaya Marg,.thaiemb.org.in; Chanakyapuri); .nzembassy.com; 50N Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi) (Map ; pp488-9 Gariahat; collect 2-4pm) Delhi) Park, N88 Panchsheel .gov.sg/newdelhi; Nyaya Marg); St; 119 Park Block D, , Anand Niketan) Royal Textile Mills, Salai); 855 Anna Royal Textile % Anderson Rd; % Chanakyapuri); Delhi magazine (Map 44-2430 1600; 011-24121389; 22475208; 9 Circus Mumbai (Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map 011-41399900; www 011-41399900; % % % 011-24196100; www 011-41782000; www 011-30414500; delhi % Delhi Diary Delhi 011-26111291; www.kln 011-26114355; www.ambnew Mumbai % 011-26889230; Chandragupta 011-24626741; www.ireland % 6669 2000; fax 6669 2005; 36 6669 2000; fax 6669 % 67494444; mmbai@ 66694000; www.consulfrance 011-26876564; www.in.emb 9am-12pm Mon-Fri) 23804071; www.italianconsulate % % % % % % % % h % (Map p500 ; p500 (Map DIRECTORYEmbassies & High •• Commissions 011-26871837; www.new-delhi.diplo (Map pp1030-1 ; (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; Kolkata % Delhi (Map ; pp132-3

22832422; fax 22025493; 10th fl, Hoechst (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Chennai

Delhi (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map % apply 9.15am-11am Mon-Fri) (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Delhi Delhi

(Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map (Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map (Map pp768-9 ; ; pp768-9 (Map (Map pp768-9 ; pp768-9 (Map Delhi (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Generally speaking, it won’t be much help in emergencies if the trouble you’re in is remotely in is remotely Generally speaking, if the trouble you’re it won’t be much help in emergencies been if other channels have you might get some assistance, but only In genuine emergencies

Delhi

h 22822822; [email protected]) your own fault. Remember that you are bound by the laws of India. Your embassy will not be Your embassy will not be bound by the laws of India. your own fault. Remember that you are legal if such actions are locally, even committing a crime sympathetic if you end up in jail after in your own country. New passports home Do not expect hand-outs. can be issued, but a loan for travel exhausted. insurance. and is exceedingly unlikely – the embassy would expect you to have YOUR OWN EMBASSY YOUR OWN EMBASSY It’s important what your own embassy – the embassy of the country of which you are to realise – can and can’t do to help you if you get into trouble. a citizen To find contactTo find other details missions of for inindia.com; 230 Jor Bagh, Delhi) inindia.com; delhi.esteri.it; 50E Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri); Mumbai mumbai.com; ‘Kanchanjunga’, 1st fl, 72 G Deshmukh Marg) .france-in-india.org; 2/50E Shantipath, Chanakyapuri); Mumbai -japan.go.jp; 50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri,-japan.go.jp; Delhi) % .gov.my/perwakilan/newdelhi; 50M Satya Marg,.gov.my/perwakilan/newdelhi; Chanakyapuri, Delhi) Marg, Chanakyapuri, Delhi) Malaysia Japan Italy Israel Ireland Germany France Canada Bhutan Bangladesh Australia tory or pick up the free up the free tory or pick in Delhi. countries in Delhi, see in Delhi, countries direc- local phone the lonelyplanet.com -bombay.org; 7th fl, Hoechst House, Nariman-bombay.org; 7th fl, Hoechst House, Point) .mfa.gov.il; 3 Aurangzeb Rd); 3 Aurangzeb Rd); .mfa.gov.il; .dfait-maeci.gc.ca/new-delhI; 7/8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri); 7/8 Shantipath, .dfait-maeci.gc.ca/new-delhI; Mumbai www.bhcdelhi.org; EP39 Dr Radakrishnan Marg, Chanakyapuri); 6th fl, Fortinternational.gc.ca; House, 221 Dr DN Rd) Ave; Ave; www.chennai.diplo.de; 9 Boat Club Rd, RA Puram); 9 Boat Club Rd, RA Puram); www.chennai.diplo.de; pp768-9 ; House, Nariman Point; .ausgovindia.com; 1/50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri); 1/50G .ausgovindia.com; Mumbai MakerVI, 220 Nariman Chambers Point) (Map ; pp132-3 .de; 6/50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri); DIRECTORY regional chapters. Festivals in…boxed texts atthebeginningof oftivals; fordetails regional the festivals, see fied hats. onmodi- a brassbandcarryingelectriclights dressed infinery onthebackof and ahorse, ding processiononthestreet, withthegroom period you’re atleastone wed- likely tosee period fromNovember toMarch. Duringthis tricts.php. listed onhttp://india.gov.in/knowindia/dis regional websites governments, forthestate have extensive listings,oryoucanvisitthe loveindia.com andwww.festivalsofindia.in dates orcheck theweb–http://festivals.i forexact localtouristoffices April). Contact inChaitra(Marchlunar calendar,starting or here are arranged according totheIndian of festivals change fromyeartoyear. days inleapyears). As aresult, theexactdates which shiftsforward11dayseach year(12 the cycleof themoon,or Islamiccalendar, the IndianorTibetan lunarcalendars, tiedto calendar butmostholidaysandfestivals follow India officially followstheEuropeanGregorian FESTIVALS &EVENTS 1136 The followingrepresent major nationalfes- fallsinthecooler The ‘weddingseason’ The India-wideholidaysandfestivals listed the website www.kumbhamela.net. KumbhMelaisatHaridwarin2010. Youcanfinddatesthe next andgeneralinformationon Nagasleadingthechargecompeting forthe best shotofthenaked into the river. The Kumbhisinvariablyaninternational mediacircus,withnewsagencies fromaroundtheglobe officials, andvasttent citiesare erected toprovide accommodationandmealsforthedevotees. who attend thousandsof theannualhaj(pilgrimage toMecca).Controllingthesemultitudestakes celebrants –equivalenttoathirdofthe populationofAmericaor30timesthenumberpeople hoststheeven (Great) largerone city.Allahabad KumbhMela, witheven Maha bigger crowds. held every 12yearsinallofthesefourcities;effectively there’s aKumbhMelaevery fouryearsin Haridwar,Nasik andUjjain.KumbhMelacelebrationsare –atAllahabad, drops spiltontheearth Vishnu gotholdofthecontainerand spirited ofimmortality. itaway, butinflightfourthe nectar Hindu creationHindu myths,thegodsanddemonsfoughtagreat battlefora Kumbh topinpointthemostauspiciousmomentformassbathingbegin. ceremonial dipinthe sacred Ganges,ShipraorGodavaririvers. Teams ofastrologersgatherevery a sensationofmassbelief andtotake cometogethertoexperiencetheelectrifying of Hinduism caste orcreedThe KumbhMeladoesn’tbelongtoany particular –devotees fromallbranches monasticorders. spiritualmen)frommilitantHindu pilgrims, includingmendicantNagas(naked the largest religious This tens congregation vastcelebrationattracts ofmillionsHindu onearth. Held four times every 12yearsatlocationsthathopscotcharoundtheplains,KumbhMelais KUMBH MELA The scheduleforKumbhMelas can bebewilderingbecauseoftheoverlapping cycles,but around100million in2001,attracting Kumbh MelatookplaceinAllahabad The lastMaha The origins ofthefestival gobacktothebattleforsupremacy betweengoodandevil.Inthe IETR • Fsias&Eet ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY Jyaistha (May/June) orearlyJune. April existence); itcanfallinMay, (finalrelease fromthecycleof and attainmentofnirvana Sravana (July/August) mostfamouslyinPuri ( powered chariots, p645 ) inOrissa. as lordoftheworld)are hauledthroughcitiesonman- Christ. ofJesus Resurrection serpent uponwhosecoilsVishnurested betweenuniverses. Naag Panchami YatraRath ( Asadha (June/July) the regional chapters fordetails. Only regional festivals fallinthisperiod;see Buddha Jayanti Eid-Milad-un-Nabi Easter ofscenesfromtheRamayana. enactments processions, musicandfeasting, andreadings and Ramanavami Jayanti Mahavir Chaitra (March/April) Vaisakha (April/May) 2009and26February9 March 2010. 2008, oftheProphetMohammed;itfallson20March birth of Mahavira, thefounderofJainism. of Mahavira,

Christian holiday marking theCrucifixionand holidaymarking Christian Car Festival) Effigies of Lord Jagannath (Vishnu Car Festival) ofLordJagannath(Vishnu Effigies Hindus celebrate the birth of Rama with ofRama celebratethebirth Hindus Celebrating Buddha’s birth, enlightenment enlightenment CelebratingBuddha’sbirth, Hindu festival dedicatedtoAnanta,the Hindu Jain festival commemorating the birth Jainfestival commemoratingthebirth Islamicfestival celebratingthe kumbh (pitcher)containing lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY

1137 tandava (powder) at anyone within range. (powder) at anyone within range. Honouring Saraswati, the goddess of A Vaishnavite Hindu festival A Vaishnavite gulal Christians celebrate the birth of Jesus The birthday of Guru Nanak, the founder of This public holiday, celebrated on 26 Muslims commemorate Ibrahim’s readiness Shi’ia Muslims commemorate the martyrdom This day of Hindu the fasting recalls A four-day Tamil festival marking festival the end of A four-day Tamil (Deepavaali) On the 15th day of Kartika, On the 15th (Deepavaali) Hindus (a mixture of rice, sugar, dhal and milk), symbolic Tibetan New Year – celebrated by Tantric Buddhists all – celebrated by Tantric New Year Tibetan One of the most exuberant festivals in North One of the most exuberant festivals India; the harvest season. Families in the south prepare pots of in the south prepare the harvest season. Families pongal of prosperity them to decorated and abundance, then feed and adorned cattle. Hindus celebrate the beginning of spring by throwing water and coloured built to symbolise the are Holi, bonfires On the night before destruction of the evil demon Holika. processions are Temple (cosmic dance) of Lord Shiva. followed by the chanting of mantras and anointing of linga (phallic images of Shiva). learning, Hindus in yellow and place books, musical dress instruments and other educational objects in front of idols her blessing. of the goddess to receive (February/March) Phalguna of the Prophet Mohammed’s grandson Imam; the festival starts 29 December 2009 and 18 on 10 January 2008, December 2010. Christ on 25 December. January, commemorates the founding of the Republic of India in 1950; the most spectacular celebrations are held in Delhi, which holds a huge military parade along Rajpath three and the Beating of the Retreat ceremony days later. Shivaratri Pongal Panchami Vasant Holi Muharram Christmas Day Losar Republic Day Diwali Govardhana Puja Nanak Jayanti Sikhism, and processions. with prayer readings is celebrated Eid al-Adha sacrifice falls on 20 December festival his son to God; the 2009 and 16 2007, 8 December 2008, 27 November, November 2010. (December/January) Pausa Kartika (October/November) Kartika (October/November) over India, particularly in Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Ladakh Exact and Zanskar. to region. region dates vary from (January/February) Magha celebrate the ‘festival of lights’ for five days, giving gifts, of lights’ for five days, giving celebrate the ‘festival butter and oil lamps to and burning lighting fireworks, lead Rama home from exile. liftingcelebrating the Govardhan Hill of by Krishna; it’s celebrated by Krishna devotees around India. (November/December) Aghan larly in as Dussehra, particu to the wrists and of brothers A Vaishnavite festival, celebrat- festival, A Vaishnavite This public holiday (15 August) marks This public holiday (15 August) rakhis Hindus celebrate the birth of the DIRECTORY & Events Festivals •• (Narial Purnima) On the full moon, girls (Narial Purnima) On this day of fasting, high-caste Hindus On this day of fasting, high-caste This public holiday is a solemn celebration A Buddhist festival celebrating the first A Buddhist festival The anniversary of Krishna’s birth is Also symbolising the triumph of good over evil, (Ramazan) Thirty days of dawn-to-dusk fasting Muslims celebrate the end of Ramadan with (Festival of Nine Nights) This Hindu lead- festival (Festival Parsis celebrate the Zoroastrian new year at this Parsis ing up to Dussehra celebrates the goddess Durga in all her held, and the goddesses Special dances are incarnations. Festivities Lakshmi and Saraswati also get special praise. particularlyare vibrant in Gujarat and Maharashtra. elephant-headed god, Ganesh, with verve, particularly in Mumbai. Clay idols of Ganesh paraded through the are immersed in rivers, being ceremonially before tanks streets (reservoirs) or the sea. three days of festivities, starting days of festivities, three 30 days after the start of the fast. Durga Puja commemorates the victoryDurga Puja of the goddess Durga over buffalo-headed demon Mahishasura. Celebrations take place on the same dates ing the victory of the Hindu god Rama over the demon- Ravana and the triumph of good over evil. Dussehra effigies of ), where p897 ( ) and Mysore p303 is big in Kullu ( Ravana and his cohorts ritually are burned. thousands of images of the goddess ), where p521 Bengal ( then ritually displayed are immersed in rivers, tanks and the sea. Bhadra (August/September) Bhadra (August/September) fix amulets known as fix amulets known Brothers male friends to protect them in the coming year. with gifts.reciprocate people also worship the Vedic Some sea god Varuna. Eid al-Fitr Gandhi Jayanti of Mohandas Gandhi’s birth on 2 October, with prayer meetings at Gandhi’s site in Delhi. cremation Durga Puja Dussehra (Durga Puja) Dussehra (Durga Puja) Navratri Ramadan Pateti Shravan Purnima Janmastami Ganesh Chaturthi Drukpa Teshi Independence Day teaching given by Siddhartha Gautama. Raksha Bandhan Snakes monsoon flooding as totems against venerated are evils.and other lonelyplanet.com time, particularly in Mumbai. Asvina (September/October) (September/October) Asvina mark the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, when the Quran was revealed to the Prophet Mohammed; fast starts on 1 September 2008, 22 August 2009 and 11 August 2010. replace the sacred thread looped over their left thread the sacred shoulder. replace celebrated with wild abandon, particularlycelebrated with wild abandon, in Krishna’s birthplace Mathura. the anniversary of India’s Independence in 1947. Celebrationsthe anniversary of India’s Independence a countrywide outpouringare of patriotic sentiment. DIRECTORY Hollywood/Heights/7258) safar.org) .gaybombay.org) Dost towards scene, pointyour web browser progressive Indiancities. West, Mumbai,andfrombookshops inmore 105A Veena-Beena Shopping Bandra Centre, a gay-and-lesbianmagazineavailable from The Mumbaipublication Publications &Websites orientation. than sexual this isgenerally asignof friendship rather heterosexual couplesholdinghands,though men holdinghandsisfarmore commonthan as wellgayandlesbiancouples.Infact, generally frownedonforheterosexual couples andpublicdisplaysofcontact are affection societyandphysic but Indiaisaconservative al andChandigarh, Bengaluru Delhi, Kolkata, Vikram Seth. andfile supporters, includingAmartyaSen pro- 377’ hasattracted somehigh ‘Section lation foryears. Thecampaigntorepeal have campaigningagainstthislegis- been laws,butIndiangaysIndia’s homosexuality is taboo. openlyabout this Indian society,buttalking ofseparation unmarriedmenandwomenin ofality isquite commonbecause thestrict relations.sexual Ironically,private homosexu- imprisonment. There’s nolawagainstlesbian transgression cantheoretically beuptolife are illegalinIndiaandthepenaltiesfor Technically, relationshomosexual for men GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS more information. see night; p1128 for sections andtheEating from earlymorning(orlunchtime) tolate at a pleasure. Placestoeatare generally open that make eatingonthemove inIndiasuch vendors, counters takeaway shops andsweet wonderful street snackjoints,market stalls, restaurants,as sampling lookoutforallthe ofing sections theregional chapters. As well what’s onoffer, check out p104 and theEat- spired of use spicesasIndia. Toget ataste of Nowhere intheworldmakes such anin- FOOD 1138 For furtherinformationabout India’sgay See p60 formore information. There are low-key gayscenesinMumbai, Foreigners are unlikely tobetargeted by (www.indiandost.com/gay.php) IETR • Fo ••Food DIRECTORY . , Humrahi and

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(www Indian is also a library service; openingtimesanddirec- also alibraryservice; andtransgender individuals.There’sbisexuals offers healthadviceforlesbians,gaymen, c/oPawan,([email protected]; PostBagNo10237,Kolkata) The associated theorganisation fordetails. contact meetings; andarrangesbians andbisexuals, monthly 700017) Kolkata PostBagNo794, [email protected]; c/oRanjan, eunuchs). transgenders and menandwomen,vice forgayandbisexual and provides acommunityoutreach ser- Bengaluru 560051) 34Park.org; Flat13,RoyalPark Rd,Tasker Apartments, Town, teers are welcome. advocacy andtrainingprogrammes.Volun- research, through documentation,sexuals fecting andtrans- lesbians,gays,bisexuals Bengaluru 560027) 54NanjappaRd,Shanthinagar, swabhava_trust.tripod.com; .html; Bengaluru) ( and transgender peopleisrunby supportgroupforgay,lesbian,bisexual weekly port tothegay-and-lesbiancommunity.A offer sup- organisations inBengaluru Several Support Groups travel forreligious celebrations. Make trans- transport isusuallyunaffected asmany locals onpublic holidays,buttourist sites close festivals, see p1136 . Christmas (Christian).Formore onreligious Buddha Jayanti and (Buddhist)andEaster Eid al-Fitr(Muslim),Mahavir Jayanti (Jain), hra andHoli(Hindu),NanakJayanti (Sikh), religious festivals –usuallyDiwali,Dusse- days forgovernment workers aswellmajor own officialholidays,which cover bankholi- Jayanti (2October). Every celebrates state its Independence Day(15August)andGandhi public holidays: RepublicDay(26January), In Indiathere are officially three national HOLIDAYS fordetails. theoffice contact (inEnglish); weekly social-group meetings Chennai) 127SterlingRd,Nungambakkam, .sahodaran.faithweb.com; tions are byrequest. % Sangama The NGO Most businesses (offices, shops (offices, etc)andMost businesses In Chennai, In Kolkata the In Kolkata 080-22230959; www.sawnet.org/orgns/good_as_you , asupportgroupforgaymen,holds ( provides supportforgays,les- % . Swabhava worksdirectly withissues af- deals with crisis intervention dealswithcrisisintervention 080-22868680; www.sangamaonline Sahodaran Palm Society Avenue Integration Counsel Club hijra ( s (transvestites and %

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DIRECTORY , (www 1139 . See also p27 for p27 . See also (www.sify.com/products) i VSNL/Tata Indicom VSNL/Tata Sify and . Make sure your modem is compat- your modem sure . Make (www.bsnl.co.in) Most laundries and hotels charge per item per item charge hotels laundries and Most You should carry your passport at all times; You should In this book, hotels offering internet access internet offering In this book, hotels Another useful investment in India is a India is a in Another useful investment do is monitor your treatment in custody and do is monitor your treatment In the Indian justice system, a lawyer. arrange is on the accused and long proof the burden of common. trial are stays in prison before entitled to ask your for identifica- police are is rife situations. Corruption tion in all sorts of ing a few buttons. If you don’t think your gear buttons. If you don’t think your gear ing a few wash them will stand up to the treatment, Wash- them to a drycleaner. yourself or give virtually ing powder can be bought cheaply everywhere. to submit a list with your (you’ll be required clothes dirty clothes) or by dry weight. Hand back the same 9am if you want them in before to dry clothes during longer day. It can take that many hotels the humid monsoon. Note ban washing clothes in their rooms. LEGAL MATTERS a sticky legal situation, immedi- in you’re If ). However, p1134 contactately your embassy ( to may be able that all your embassy be aware credit-card details or other personal data over data details over personal or other credit-card information connection. For more a wireless portable with a see computer on travelling www.teleadapt.com. by marked to guests are LAUNDRY a same- or next-day laundry offer Most hotels service, plentiful laundries are and private Most employ the servicesin tourist areas. of and women who – washermen dhobi-wallahs wet clothes against bash your will diligently them rocks and scrubbing boards, returning maybe miss- clean and ironed, but spotlessly a local Internet Service Internet a local Major (ISP). Provider include in India ISPs .vsnl.in) and dial-up system telephone ible with the be global modem may external in India (an necessary). to pro- adaptor AC universal fuse-protected your circuit board from power surges. tect throughout widely available are Plug adaptors fuses plug from home. India, but bring spare in many luxury hotels access is available Wi-fi hops in modernisedand some coffees cities, but security – never is a consideration send useful web resources about India. about India. useful web resources BSNL DIRECTORY •• Insurance

There are hundreds of different policies so different of hundreds are There

If you’re travelling with a laptop most inter- travelling If you’re It’s a good idea to write and save your mes- and save It’s a good idea to write Worldwide coverage for travellers from from for travellers Worldwide coverage dial-up number, or take out an account with dial-up number, or take over a LAN Ethernet cable, or you can join an over roaming serviceinternational with an Indian net cafés can supply you with internet access net cafés can supply you with internet technology to steal passwords and read emails. passwords and read to steal technology sys- online banking on any nonsecure Using a bad idea. is generally tem sensitive financial information from internet from internet financial information sensitive cafés; some places use keystroke-capturing vanish into the ether. Be sending wary of vanish into the ether. sages in a text application before pasting them application before in a text sages common into your browser cuts are – power can email your hard-crafted and all too often usually with a 15-minute minimum. usually with a 15-minute Internet charges vary regionally, but most but most vary regionally, charges Internet between Rs 10 and 60 per hour, places charge connections are usually quite fast, except in usually quite connections are Bandwidth to load tend areas. remote more be lowest in the morning and early afternoon. INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS in India and widespread cafés are Internet over 44 countries is available online at www is available 44 countries over .lonelyplanet.com/travel_services. stolen; insurance companies may refuse to stolen; insurance companies may refuse . p1181 Also see you without one. reimburse mentation for your claim). It is crucial to get mentation for your claim). It is crucial to get had anything in India if you’ve a police report directly; others expect you to pay upfront and others directly; all docu- (keep claim the money back later king agents will only accept customers who will only accept customers king agents evacua- helicopter for emergency cover have and hospitals doctors tion. Some policies pay your activities are covered. In some areas, trek- In some areas, covered. your activities are climbing. When hiring a motorcycle in India, climbing. When hiring a policy includes at least the rental sure make . p1175 third-party insurance; see sure and make the small print carefully read dangerous activities such as scuba diving, ski- as activities such dangerous paragliding and ing, motorcycling, trekking, ment, as well as air evacuation. Be that aware on potentially some policies place restrictions can’t afford the consequences if something that your policy sure does go wrong. Make treat- property and medical theft of covers Every traveller should take out travel insur- out travel take should traveller Every can’t affordance – if you it, you definitely port and hotel reservations hotel port and if in advance well festivals. major visiting during you intend INSURANCE lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY and anumber of cities have also banned Delhi, Shimla, Gangtok andallof Kerala, haviour. Smokinginpublicisnowillegal in started clamping downonantisocialbe- Like manyWestern countries,India has Antisocial Behaviour rituals. towns where bhangislegallysoldforreligious ing andsmokingitisstillanoffence, exceptin India,butpick- juana growswildthroughout Manali andother backpacker centres. Mari- in stingoperations(usuallyforbribes) very seriously. drugs,soyoushould takewho use thisrisk getting onforeignersbeen particularlytough top of anycustodialsentence. Thepolicehave and there’s fineon usuallyaheftymonetary fore waitsinprison, acourt,whiletheaccused no chance of remission orparole. victed, the treated criminaloffence. asaserious Ifcon- ofthis reason. Possession anyillegaldrugis and manytravellers visitIndiaspecificallyfor tional drugs such asmarijuanaandhashish, India isfamous–ornotoriousforrecrea- Drugs be asked forabribe. inasituationwhereput yourself youmight knowing howmuch topay–it’sbetter notto Theproblemis a trumped-upprosecution. wisdom istopayit,asthealternative canbe theft). offor yourinsurancecompanyintheevent better (unless getting awritten policereport so theless youhave todowithlocalpolicethe 1140 Note that travellers are frequently targeted Cases can take several years cantake several toappearbe- Cases If youare asked forabribe,theprevailing risky brew. thisof alltheirpossessionsafter drinking inaccidentsorbeenrobbedbadly hurt many hours. Manytravellers have been high thatverges ondeliriumandlastsfor potent cancauseadrawn-out concoction Commonly dubbed‘speciallassi’,thisoften iced-water beverage lacedwithcannabis. and tinely whipupabhanglassi,yoghurt restaurants intouristcentres willclandes- Although it’srarely printed inmenus,many BEWARE BHANG LASSIS! IETR • Mp ••Maps DIRECTORY minimum sentence is10years,sentence with city maps. The Kolkata-based city maps.TheKolkata-based (www.indiamapstore.com) buy themonlinefromDelhi’s are available atgoodbookshops, oryoucan ing variousregions of India. Allof maps these .nelles-verlag.de) are restricted reasons. forsecurity andcountrymaps,butsometitles city, state (www.surveyofindia.gov.in) Eicher .nestwings.com) covering andcities; states Discover India, includeTTK mapseries Better liberate errors would-be toconfuse in vaders. and somelocallyprinted de- mapscontain Maps available insideIndiaare fairlypoor MAPS unpopularwithlocals. this ishighly make thewholecountrysmoke free, though ban are enforced.There are planstoeventually transport, andthepenaltiesforbreaking the Delhi Metro andmanyotherformsof public smoking ban,butisbannedonthe the street signs. but thepolicedohave thepower,soheed of atleastRs100.Thisisvariably enforced, (forlocals)finebreaking rulesisastiff these spitting andlittering. Thepunishmentfor is becoming increasingly rare; ifitischarged, cheques. Commission forforeign exchange youchangewhenever currency ortravellers your plastic. ATM isoutof orbreak order, or youlose down,the thepowergoes as backupincase carrycashortravellersHowever, cheques common inmosttownsandcities inIndia. front cover of thisbookforexchange rates. theinside and itsvalueisgenerally see stable; islinkedIndian rupee toabasket of currencies bill canbehardtochange outsidebanks).The in Rs10,20,50,100,500and1000(thislast andRs1,25;notesand 50paise, come Coins comeindenominationsof 5,10,20,25 coinsare (p),butpaise increasinglypaise rare. (Rs)isdividedinto100The Indianrupee MONEY forgeneral good enough orientation. butare detail, dated andlackinginessential stocklocalmaps,whichist offices are often Throughout India,state-governmentThroughout tour- So far,restaurants are exempt fromthe Remember, youmust present your passport ATMs linked tointernational networksare (maps.eicherworld.com) formapsandguidebooks; alsoproducesgoodmapscover- . alsopublishes decent forstreet and atlases Nest &Wings lonelyplanet.com Survey ofIndia Survey India Map Store Store India Map Nelles

(www (www

DIRECTORY 1141 Officially, rupees cannot take you out India, Whenever changing money, check every money, check Whenever changing Nobody in India ever change, seems to have need to have encashment certificates totalling certificates encashment need to have changing rupees you intend the amount of from receipts Printed currency. back to foreign an as evidence may also be accepted of ATMs transaction at some banks. Keep international rupees handy until you fly – airport ser- a few expensive. disproportionately vices are and top-end hotels, and you can also useand top-end hotels, them Cash ad- to pay for flights train tickets. and also possible cards are credit vances on major However, be at some banks without ATMs. and . MasterCard p1132 scams; seewary of cards; for the most widely accepted Visa are details about whether you can access home at your bank before accounts in India, inquire leaving. Encashment Certificates must be changed currency law, all foreign By or banks. For every at official moneychangers transaction,receive you will exchange foreign will allow which an encashment certificate, cur- rupees into foreign you to re-exchange ). You’ll above (see when departing India rency smaller currency. Try to stockpile Rs 10, 20 Try to stockpile smaller currency. bills into these bigger de- change and 50 notes; money. nominations every time you change However,but this is laxly enforced. you can rupees back into foreign any leftover change easily at the airport (some , most currency that a Rs 1000 minimum). Note banks have a mini- only change some airport banks will encash- Rs 1000. You may require mum of ) or a credit-card below ( ment certificates to show your and you may also have receipt, passport and airline ticket. Credit Cards at growing numbers accepted cards are Credit and midrange restaurants, shops, upmarket of rency can be harder to change away from the away from change be harder to can rency track, beaten the off travelling When border. rupees. a decent stock of always carry Banks into bricks, staplenote. bills together on the cur- on tear wear of puts a lot which or accept any filthy, ripped Do not rency. as thesenotes, may not be disintegrating lumbered If you get as payment. accepted them to new bills change notes, with such the Reserve of at branches India in Bank of cities. major maintainso it’s a good idea to a stock of DIRECTORY •• Money

See p1133 for tips on keeping your money tips on keeping for p1133 See

The ATMs listed in this book’s regional in this book’s regional listed The ATMs Note that several travellers have reported reported have that severalNote travellers Bank impose higher charges on interna- Bank impose higher charges but Pakistani, Nepali and Bangladeshi cur- but Pakistani, dian dollars, and Swiss francs. Private money- francs. Private and Swiss dian dollars, currencies, of accept a wider range changers out India, though insist some bank branches banks also only. A few cheques on travellers accept Australian, New Zealand and Cana- Major currencies such as US dollars, UK UK as US dollars, such currencies Major through- easy to change pounds and euros are Cash Cash to change small amounts of cash at land border small amounts of to change a rule, if someone comes up to As crossings. money, to change and offers you in the street probably being set up for a scam. you’re India, but legal moneychangers are so com- are India, but legal moneychangers to use them, except no reason mon that there’s Black-market moneychangers do exist in do exist in moneychangers Black-market from your cards, and report any loss or theft from your cards, and report immediately. Black Market emergency lost-and-stolen numbers for for numbers lost-and-stolen emergency place, separate cards in a safe your credit chapters accept foreign cards (but not nec- accept foreign chapters the cards). Always keep essarily all types of other machines can take more than 30 seconds than 30 more can take other machines cash, so don’t panic if the to actually release money doesn’t appear instantaneously. ATMs snatching back money if you don’t re- back money if you don’t snatching ATMs it within around 30 seconds. Conversely, move whether your card can access banking net- whether your card can charges. for detailsworks in India and ask of banks. Reduce charges by making larger trans- by making larger banks. Reduce charges in advance Always check actions less often. tional transactions, but this may be cancelled between rates exchange out by the favourable Punjab National Bank and the State Bank of National BankPunjab Bank and the State of carry towns, always Away from major India. as backup. cheques cash or travellers in India that reliably accept foreign cards in- accept foreign in India that reliably UTI, HSBC,clude Citibank, HDFC, ICICI, the The most commonly accepted cards are Visa, cards are The most commonly accepted and Plus. Banks Cirrus, Maestro MasterCard, Modern 24-hour ATMs are found in most found in are ATMs Modern 24-hour may and cities, though towns the ATM large samenot be in the branch. place as the bank ATMs ATMs the fee is nominal. For information about about information For is nominal. the fee . p24 seecosts, during your trip. safe lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY Western Union Western have required alsobeen whenpayingfor is the norm; see the Artof Haggling,is thenorm; see p1148 . p1155 ). (see donate toaschool orcharitable organisation fit forthechild. Tomake alasting difference, good ratherthanproducinganypositive bene- giving –designedtomake thetraveller feel encourages them tobeg.Thisisoften selfish pensormoney tochildren,out sweets, asit doifthepositions wereyou might reversed. people compassionately andconsiderwhat you give ornotisuptoyou,buttrytreat new arrivalsinmanyIndiancities–whether themselves attach to across thestreet. Beggars out thatthetemple youare lookingforis unjustified demandsformoneypointing covers fromalmsforbeggars everything to honest about thefare. drivers, butit’sgoodtotipdrivers whoare orrickshawIt’s notmandatorytotiptaxi above andbeyondthecallof duty. for services expectsimilargratuities bags, andhotel staff Hotel bellboys expectaroundRs20tocarry is optional.Elsewhere, atipisappreciated. usually already addedtoyourbillandtipping In tourist fee is restaurants orhotels, aservice Tipping, Baksheesh&Bargaining ally atwellbelowthebankrate. upmarket hotels mayalsochange money,usu- given thecorrect amount.Inascrape,some atthebank,andcheckwith those youare ternet cafésandtravel agents). Compare rates almost everywhere (manyalsodoubleasin- longer hours thanbanks,andtheyare found Private moneychangers are usuallyopenfor Moneychangers of theperson thefunds. whosent passport, andthenamereference number Tocollectcash,bringyour to thetransaction. transfer themoney,andaheftyfee isadded filiated with can wire youmoneyviamoneychangers af- If yourunoutof money,someoneathome International Transfers requirement hasrecently relaxed. been traintickets butthis tourist-quota inrupees, 1142 Apart from atfixed-price shops,bargaining Many Indiansimplore tourists nottohand tocallsomeoneathome You’ll need Traditionally, money-exchange receipts Baksheesh canbedefinedasa‘tip’,andit Baksheesh IETR • Poorpy ••Photography DIRECTORY Moneygram (www.westernunion.com) (www.moneygram.com) . or Travel Photography. Landscape Travel Photography raphy guides,including tography, read LonelyPlanet’stravel photog- tipsandtechniquesFor useful ontravel pho- PHOTOGRAPHY where them. youbought theplace pany hasissuedthem)willcontact missing cheques, Amex(orwhichever com- photo). Ifyoudon’thave thenumbers of your photocopy of thepolicereport andapassport of themissingcheques (someplacesrequire a slipandthenumbers the proof-of-purchase Cook office inDelhi(see p125 ). your cheques, theAmexorThomas contact Ifyoulose and photocopiedpassportdetails. slips,encashmentvouchers proof-of-purchase fromyourcheques,separate alongwiththe keep arecord of thecheques’ numbers serial yourtravellers youlose case cheques, and bank tobank. ellers cheques varyfromplacetoand in smallertowns.Charges forchanging trav- US dollars are thesafest currencies, especially Amex andThomasCook.Poundssterling and some banksmayonlyacceptcheques from All major brandsare accepted inIndia, but Travellers Cheques print, plus Rs15to20forprocessing. Passport veloping costsaround Rs6per10cm by15cm major citiesandtouristtraps.Onaverage, de- but you’llonlyfind colour-slide filminthe tively cheap andthequalityisusuallygood, readily available inmost cities.Filmisrela- Colour-print film-processing facilitiesare Print &Slide charge. print-and-processing thestandard for roughly shops make photographs printsfromdigital Rs 50to100perdisk.Somephotographic for to CD;internet cafésoffer thisservice safe, regularly backupyourmemorycard Rs 1000/1600fora512MB/1GBcard.Tobe amount of topayupwardsof data.Expect variable –somedonotcarrytheadvertised too. thequalityof However, memorycardsis and increasingly fromshops insmallplaces from photographicshops inmostlarge cities, Memory cameraare cardsfordigital available Digital To replace losttravellers cheques, youneed Always keep anemergency in cashstash Travel Photography, lonelyplanet.com and People DIRECTORY 1143 actually writing on before 645 595 480 570 535 450 535 570 645 525 500 525 645 Books or printed matter can go by in- matter Books or printed Parcel post has a maximum of 20kg to 30kg 20kg of post has a maximum Parcel Posting parcels is quite straightforward; Posting parcels is quite Destination Airmail SAL Sea mail Sea SAL Destination Airmail Australia Europe USA have the option of the EMS (express mail ser- the EMS (express the option of have days) for around within three vice; delivery than the normal airmail price. 30% more book post (maximum 5kg), but expensive must be wrapped with a hole the package for inspection by the contents that reveals post – the police will track the package to your post – the police will track the package door and bust you when you open it. depending on the destination, and charges vary depending on whether you go by air or an indication, a 1kg parcel costs the sea. As following prices (in rupees): to send packages It is sometimes cheaper letters under 2kg in weight as registered the same way as parcels). You also (packed prices vary depending on weight and you have weightprices vary depending on and you have to three in one (delivery airmail of a choice weeks), sea or mail (two to four months), (SAL) – a curious hybrid Surface Air-Lifted both air and sea by (one parcels travel where up in white must be packed month). Parcels linen and the seams sealed with wax. Local tai- this service, offer lors may be a parcel or there service Carry at the post office. a permanent on the parcel any information to write marker by the desk. The post office can requested the necessary declaration customs provide to or pasted forms and these must be stitched a gift under the are the parcel. If the contents to pay duty Rs 1000, you won’t have value of end. Never try to sendat the delivery drugs by poste restante are generally held for around held for generally are restante poste To claim returned. being before one month needmail, you’ll It’s your passport. to show any parcels sent by reg- to you best to have post. istered Sending Mail anywhere to Posting aerogrammes/postcards airmail letters costs Rs 8.50/8 and overseas For postcards, cost from Rs 15 (1 to 20 grams). stick on the stamps you as many as them, as post offices can give four stamps Sending per card. by regis- a letter post adds Rs 15 to the stamp cost. tered DIRECTORY •• Post

Many places of worship – such as monas- – such worship places of Many Always check the use-by date on local film date the use-by Always check

you don’t collect your mail. Letters sentyou don’t collect your mail. Letters via so check under both your names and ask under both your names and ask so check in case address a return senders to provide poste restante, GPO (main post office), and restante, poste ‘lost’ letters the city or town in question. Many names, simply misfiled under given/first are dress letters to you with your surname in to you with your surname in letters dress and underlined, followed by capital letters To receive mail in India, ask senders to ad- To receive cut costs and things sometimes go missing. Receiving Mail goods are often repacked into large packages to packages into large repacked often goods are restante services good, althoughrestante generally are will depend on the ef- delivery the speed of Airmail is faster office. any given ficiency of than sea mail, although reliable it’s and more best to use courier services as DHL) to (such value; expect to pay of items send and receive around Rs 2700 per kilo to Europe, Australia but cheaper, are couriers or the USA. Private India has the biggest postalIndia has the biggest on earth, network and poste Mail 155,618 post offices. with over POST POST offence. See p58 for the etiquette of photo- of for the etiquette p58 Seeoffence. graphing people. always ask when in doubt as taking photo- cause can serious forbidden images of graphs photography. Respect these proscriptions and cameras may be banned from the cabin (or cameras may be banned the batteries). you may need to remove and mosques – also prohibit temples teries, ited, though airlines rarely enforce this. On though airlines rarely ited, flights important to strategically destinations, tary installations and sensitive border regions. tary installationsregions. border sensitive and prohib- from the air is officially Photography graphs of military installations of – this can graphs airports, mili- include train stations, bridges, Restrictions Restrictions about anyone taking photo- India is touchy preferably film that’s been refrigerated. preferably film into new-looking canisters. It’s best to canisters. film into new-looking – and stores only buy film from reputable for the last few months. Be buying film months. for the last few wary of charac- – unscrupulous hawkers from street been known to load old/damaged have ters packet and that you’re not handed a roll that’s not handed and that you’re packet been in the sunshine in a glass cabinet sitting photos are available from photo shops for shops for from photo available are photos to 12 shots). Rs 100 (10 around a sealed you get sure Make and slide stock. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY a mould isformedaround it,andthewax old lost-wax process.Awax figure ismade, small images of deitiesare created bytheage- In southernIndia andpartsof theHimalaya, & Terracotta Bronze Figures,Pottery,Stone Carving to ruralcommunities. Industries emporiumswillalsocontribute at thenationalnetworkof &Village Khadi schools, healthcare andtraining.Shopping directlymoney goes intosocialprojects like Prices are usuallyfixed andashare of the groups.and othersociallydisadvantaged on refugees, low-caste women,thedisabled rural families.Many of projects these focus livelihoodtion, trainingandasustainable for cottage industries,andtoprovide educa- uptoprotect andpromoteset traditional tion byshopping atcommunitycooperatives, rural areas. Youcanmake agreater contribu- toIndiabytourismreachesbrought peoplein ( p1147). (see p1133 antiquesisprohibited). Exporting and bewaryof beingledtoshops bytouts include delivery toyourcountryof residence, shops vary. Art of Haggling, p1148 ). Openinghours for where you’llhave else, the tobargain (see normally charge very fairfixed prices;every- cottage industries’cooperatives. shops These emporiumsand instate usually showcased is cartingitallhome! ofpets andstatues Indiangods.Thehardpart precious gemstones, metals, silks,pearls,car- pers, withshopsandmarkets drippingwith India isanAladdin’scave of for delights shop- SHOPPING to dothepostingyourself. usually fine,butinmostotherplacesitpays them.Governmentbought emporiumsare things toyourhomeaddress after youhave tariffs. postal an onlinecalculatorforotherinternational website for Rs 260toanyinternational destination.The country –a1kgbook-postparcelcostsjust notthe rates dependontheweight, Overseas ing thisinsuch awaythatnothingfallsout. customs –tailors are experiencedincreat- 1144 Only asmallproportionof themoney Every region hasitsownspecial crafts, Be very cautiouswhenbuyingitems that Be cautiouswithplacesthatoffer tomail Be IETR • Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY India Post (www.indiapost.gov.in) has and otherdeities. ofsmall clayorplaster Kali, effigies Durga motifs. Attemples acrossIndiayoucanbuy blue-glazed pottery withfloralandgeometric children’s toys. flowerpots toterracottaimages of deitiesand anddecorative work,rangingfromvases cotta Trichy (Tiruchirappalli). the bronzeware fromThanjavur ( p1071 ) and half atonne. Tamil Naduisalsoknownfor weighing elephants toenormousdeitystatues sculptors; souvenirs range fromtinystone have revived theancientartistryof thePallava craftsmen usinglocalgranite andsoapstone and painted faces. Tantric gods,finished withfinelypolished off ofstriking bronzestatues Buddhaandthe ures. InBuddhistareas, youcanfindvery produces interesting humanandanimalfig- tures, region whiletheBastar of Chhattisgarh wax processtomake Dokratribalbellsculp- numerous deitiesfromtheHindupantheon. but youcanalsofindimages of Buddhaand dancing Nataraja are themostpopularitems, to reveal thefigure inside. Figures of Shiva as themouldisthenbrokenmolten metal; open is melted andpoured outandreplaced with but wool carpetslastlonger. Formore infor- carpets cost more andlookmore luxurious, tricacy of the designandthematerial. Silk knots, therange of dyesandcolours, thein- by thenumberand thesizeof thehand-tied stick tonewcarpets. buy fromaninternationally reputable dealer, carpets usuallyaren’t antique–unlessyou Pradesh.Antique designsinUttar Afghan also findreproductions of tribalTurkmenand have cooperative carpet workshops. You can Tibetan refugees; mostrefugee settlements making isalsoamajor revenue earnerfor Carpet- Pradesh, SikkimandWestBengal. Himachal Buddhist heartlandsof Ladakh, carpets are producedinKashmir andthe in traditionalandmoderndesigns.Thebest country producingfinewool-andsilkwork is alivingcraft,withworkshops acrossthe era,andcarpet-making at leasttheMughal haveArtisans producing been carpets since Carpets Jaipur ( p177 in specialises ) inRajasthan andBiharproduceattractiveKolkata terra- In Mamallapuram ( p1050 ) inTamil Nadu, The priceof acarpetwillbedetermined The West Bengalese alsoemploythelost- The WestBengalese lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 1145 is campaigning to is campaigning to Om Mani Padme Hum. Padme Om Mani provide education for their children, for their children, education provide (www.india-carpets.com) and

Chunky Tibetan jewellery made from silver jewellery made from silver Chunky Tibetan Heavy folk-art silver jewellery can be found jewellery can be found folk-art silver Heavy China making artificially aged souvenirs, so souvenirs, China making artificially aged it, not for its buy something because you like being creative, like If you feel antique value. turquoise, agate, carnelian and loose beads of Buddhist medita- widely available. are silver wood or inlaid bone gems, tion beads made of nifty souvenirs. also make than – Jaipur ( p176 ), Udaipur ( p227 ) and ) and p227 ), Udaipur ( p176 ( than – Jaipur good places to find silver ) are p197 Pushkar ( is Jaipur tastes. at foreign jewellery pitched and semipre- for its precious also renowned and p1132 scams (see – and gem cious gems ). Throughout India you can find finely p177 rings, anklets, earrings, gold and silver crafted toe rings, necklaces and bangles, and pieces to order. crafted be can often metal) stones is (or white and semiprecious Bud- pieces feature Many India. sold all over script, includ- in Tibetan dhist motifs and text ing the famous mantra such centres the pieces sold in Tibetan Some of antiques as McLeod genuine Ganj and Leh are industry in India, Nepal and is huge but there variety of bangles made from plastic, glass, bangles made from plastic, variety of and wood for just Rs 20 to brass, bone, shell 12. Traditionally, these200 for a set are of – Hindu worn continuously until they break the as part of all their bangles widows break mourning process. in - the country, particularly in parts of (or numdas made from chain-stitched made from chain-stitched DIRECTORY •• Shopping (kilimlike cotton rugs), includ- (kilimlike Carpet Exportof India Promotion Council Carpet gabbas, ), which are much cheaper than knot- cheaper much are ), which

dhurries Unfortunately for the buyer, there is no easy way of knowing whether a carpet has been made a carpet has been made is no easy way of knowing whether Unfortunately for the buyer, there The The Unfortunately, the issue is more complicated than it first appears. In many areas, education is education is In many areas, appears. than it first complicated Unfortunately, more the issue is

by children. Shops are unlikely to admit using child labour and most of the international labelling labelling unlikely child labour and most of the international to admit using are Shops by children. cooperatives refugee produced by Tibetan carpets The been discredited. schemes for carpets have capital of child labour in adults, but Uttar Pradesh is the undisputed almost always made by are by far the best places to buy. are emporiums and charitable cooperatives Government India. eliminate child labour from the carpet industry by penalising factories that use children and by and by carpet industry by penalising factories child labour from the that use children eliminate will the only thing that Ultimately, to carpetmaking. an alternative founding schools to provide the economic and However, for children. is compulsory education stop child-labour completely significant. social obstacles are breaking the cycle of child labour. breaking of child labour. the cycle often not an option, for both economic and cultural reasons, and the alternative to child labour to child labour and the alternative and cultural reasons, an option, for both economic not often to buy from car- travellers whole family. We encourage but hunger for the may not be school that employ adult weavers pet weaving cooperatives CARPETS & CHILD LABOUR CHILD LABOUR & CARPETS charities and many childcare in India for centuries, weavers been employed as carpet have Children the carpet industry. the use of child labour by campaigning against are and America from Europe 10% of these children in India, and carpet weavers to be at least 30,000 child thought are There trafficked been from neighbouring countries. to have believed are In both Kashmir and Rajasthan, you can In both Kashmir Many people buy carpets under the mis- people buy Many

one bangle shop. Theseone bangle shop. sell an extraordinary Jewellery Jewellery Virtually every town in India has at least striking wool or silk. ing Kashmir, Himalaya Pradesh, Rajasthan ing Kashmir, also produce and Uttar Pradesh. Kashmiris ted carpets. Various parts of India produce flat parts of carpets. Various ted weave also find coarsely woven woollen woven also find coarsely namdas fee – though it may be safest to ship things – though to ship fee it may be safest scams – or you can independently to avoid carry them in the plane’s hold (allow 5kg to for a 3ft by allowance your baggage 10kg of 5ft carpet). carpets and the carpet market in your home carpets and the carpet market it. country, buy a carpet because you love places can ship carpets home for a Many back home. Unless you really know your know your Unless you really back home. carpets for US$100 or less. for a profit belief that they can be sold taken reflecting the relative simplicity of the designs; the simplicity of the relative reflecting sell 90cm by 1.5m cooperatives many refugee carpet, and US$2000 for a similar sized carpet slightly cheaper, carpets are in silk. Tibetan 90cm by 1.8m, depending on the region) wool 90cm by 1.8m, depending on the region) mation, see p359 . Expect to pay upwards of . Expect upwards of to pay p359 mation, see US$200 for a good quality 90cm by 1.5m (or lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY zinc, copper, lead and tin) – is used tomakezinc, copper, leadandtin) –isused where silver (analloyof isinlaidingunmetal blue enamel. inlaid withexquisite designs inred, green and Pradesh,thebrassis and Uttar In Rajasthan and ashtraysare particularlypopularbuys. India. trays,bowls,tankards Candleholders, You’ll findcopperandbrassware throughout Metalwork &Marble bags, beltsandotherleatheraccessories. well-made, moderately pricedleatherhand- cute toyanimals. Inallthebigcitiesyou’llfind leather over wire andclothframeworkstomake ( p699 ) inMadhya Pradesh,craftspeoplestretch ror frames,boxes andbottles,whileinIndore camel hidewithgoldtoproducebeautifulmir- of –great sequins partywear! petitive prices,often stitched withthousands striking modernleatherfootwearatvery com- for fancy-dress parties.Mostbigcitiesoffer a pair,ifonlyaspartof your genie costume for jootis (especiallyJaipur,Rajasthan p176 ) are famed of ataroundRs150.Thestates start Punjab and cities of ,PuneandMatheran; prices they are particularlygoodintheMaharashtran popular buy.Theyare soldinmostcities,but foundalloversandals India,are aparticularly the country’smajor leatherworkcentre. other substitute. Kanpur Pradeshis inUttar camels,goatsor some made frombuffalos, As cowsare sacred inIndia,leatherworkis Leatherwork with delicate curlsandribbonsof thinsilver. A silver frameworkismadeandthenin-filled lacelike silver filigree workknownas at Rs600. little asRs200,butbetter-quality pearlsstart pearlscancostas A singlestrandof seeded more alluringthantheperfect roundballs. the quirkyshapes of Indianpearlsare often than misshapenorelongated pearls.However, and perfectly roundpearlsare more expensive white pearlsorrare colours like blackandred, colour andshape –youpaymore forpure emporiums. Pricesvarydependingonthe You’llfindthematmoststate Indian states. pearls are crafted intojewelleryinmanyother They’re aspecialityof Hyderabad( p947 ) and 1146 Chappals, those wonderful curly-toed leather leather wonderfulcurly-toed Chappals, those Pearls are states. producedbymostseaside In in Rajasthan, artisans decorate decorate artisans In BikanerinRajasthan, ( inOrissa Cuttack p657 ) isfamedforits IETR • Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY

(traditional pointy-toed shoes) – buy –buy shoes) (traditional pointy-toed Bidri –aformof damascening tarakasi . at Rs2000. or miniature modelof theTaj; chess start sets pect topayabout Rs400forajewellerybox most piecescomesfromtheTaj Mahal. Ex- semiprecious stones).Theinspirationfor art formof Agra ( p406 ) reproducing theancientMughal coat racks. into functionalitems suchand aslampstands and humanfigures, which are often made today tocreate abstractdepictionsof animal 35,000 years ago. Similartechniques are used discovered amethodof smeltingironsome popular souvenirs. cooking pansandsteel thalitraysare also storageand steel vessels, copper-bottomed (Indian woks,alsoknownas leg bonesandskulls–theyare illegal! (ceremonial bowls)madefrominlaidhuman to buy arecases allinexpensive buys.Resisttheurge ceremonial hornsandtraditionaldocument by inlayingsilver incopper;prayerwheels, sarod shennai in ‘amplifier’gourd are additions. sensible Spare plectrumsandascrew- sitar stringsets, and check thegourdcarefully fordamage. makeOn anysitar, sure thestringsringclearly sitars canwarpincolder or hotter climates. shape of thegourd,sotryafew. Somecheaper andthe willvarywiththewood used sitar cost upwardsof Rs7000.Thesoundof each withquality inlayworkwill good starter sitar aresets generally heavier andsoundinferior. tone drum)costupwardsof Rs3000.Cheaper (tuned treble drum)andmetal the quality–andsoundof theinstrument. (p154). Delhi thepricebetter Prices vary,butthehigher and (p436) Varanasi ( p512), able inthelarger cities,especiallyKolkata Quality Indian musical instrumentsare avail- Musical Instruments Beaten-brass potsareBeaten-brass particularlyattractive, items of cookware forincredibly lowprices. see Bidri:theArtof Bidar, see p934 . boxes andornamentsinBidarKarnataka; A sizable cottage industryhassprungupin inChhattisgarhThe peopleof Bastar Other popularinstruments includethe Sitars range fromRs4000to15,000–a withawoodentabla sets Decent qualitytabla In allIndiantowns,youcanfind Many Tibetan religious objects are created (like anIndian lute; from Rs8000),the kangling (Indian flute; Rs 250 upwards),the pietra dura (Tibetan horns)and (inlayingmarblewith lonelyplanet.com balti doogri ) andother kadhai kapala (bass (bass

DIRECTORY . 1147 of A3 (rectan- next next thangkas is illegal, and is illegal, and thangka thangkas thangkas thangkas Archaeological Survey Survey Archaeological 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)10am-1pm & 2-5pm h Bihar’s unique folk art is Mithila (or Mad- Bihar’s unique folk art is Throughout the country (especially in capi- In all Tibetan Buddhist areas, including including areas, Buddhist In all Tibetan ducing lacquered papier-mâché for centuries, for centuries, papier-mâché ducing lacquered is now sold across and papier-mâché-ware is made in a mould The basic shape India. news- recycled paper (often of from layers and with fine brushes print), then painted depend upon Prices for protection. lacquered the design, and the complexity and quality of Some perfectly reproduce the glory of the the the glory of reproduce Some perfectly murals in India’s medieval gompas (Buddhist crude on closer look others monasteries); inspection. Prices vary, but bank on at least Rs 3000 for a decent quality antique The selling of thing to find the real you would be unlikely anyway. tal and galleries sell- shops cities) look out for paintings by local ing brilliant contemporary the of ) is the centre p775 artists. Mumbai ( art scene. Indian contemporary Papier-Mâché been pro- ) have p358 Artisans ( in Srinagar hubani) painting, an ancient artform preservedhubani) painting, an ancient ). These p554 (see Madhubani by the women of most eas- are rural life of records interesting prices start at Rs 300 for a ily found in Patna; on paper. small unframed picture and La- Pradesh Himachal Sikkim, parts of dakh, you can find exquisite Tantric on cloth) of paintings gular Tibetan mandalas. Buddhist deities and ceremonial size, much more for large intricate intricate for large more size, much tas- (like (like shawls (made from the down of rare Tibetan antelopes), antelopes), Tibetan of rare shawls (made from the down esraj where im- where shahtoosh which depict deities which 011-23010822; [email protected]; Janpath; Janpath; [email protected]; 011-23010822; % chitra pothi, pothi, chitra

painting. Cotton or kalamkari, DIRECTORY •• Shopping (Map pp132-3 ;

pattachitra The Indian Wildlife Protection Act bans any form of wildlife trade. Don’t buy any products that Don’t buy any products that trade. Act Protection form of wildlife bans any Indian Wildlife The additional laws forbidding the import have that your home country may of restricted Note (silk cloth) is covered with a mixture of of with a mixture (silk cloth) is covered of India PROHIBITED EXPORTS EXPORTS PROHIBITED heritage, the export India’s cultural protect objects Many ‘old’ antiques is prohibited. of many To years old. Reputable than 100 more is verifiably if something the difficulties begin fine, but are make know the laws and can antique dealers arrangements for an export-clearance certificate for to export. permitted If in doubt, contact Delhi’s that you are any old items endanger threatened species and habitats – doing so can result in heavy fines and even impris- in heavy fines and even and habitats – doing so can result species endanger threatened includes ivory, onment. This buy. you the law before so know penalties can be severe parts. The and wildlife items to the National Museum. The rules may seem unfair, but the loss of artworks may seem unfair, but the rules Museum. The to the National build- and traditional ings in Ladakh, Himachal trade in antiques and Rajasthan Pradesh, Gujarat due to the international and carved windows and doorframes instead. Look for quality reproductions is shocking. Realistically, the the fur, skin,and anything made from species. of any endangered horns or shell Products is to avoid animal products certain made from completely. only way to be sure rare for export. also forbidden plants are The artists’ community of Raghurajpur The artists’ community of In Kerala and Tamil Nadu, you’ll come and Tamil In Kerala sar Orissa also produces onto dried palm-leaf sections etched are ages with a fine stylus. gum and chalk; it’s then polished, and images it’s then polished, and images gum and chalk; are deities and scenes from Hindu legend of on with exceedinglypainted fine brushes. ( p648 ) near Puri (Orissa) preserves the age- p648 ( old art of and historic events; see www.kalamkariart.org artform. on this interesting for more In Andhra Pradesh you can buy exquisite clothIn Andhra Pradesh you can buy exquisite paintings called across miniature paintings on leaf skeletons de- paintings on leaf skeletons across miniature picting domestic and rural scenes and deities. ings over 100 years old can’t be exported ) and old can’t be exported 100 years ings over p227 ( ). Udaipur above from India (see particularly good Bikaner in Rajasthan have shops specialising in modern reproductions on silk and paper, or you can browse Delhi’s ). p152 state emporiums ( colours. Beware of paintings purported to to paintings purported Beware of colours. and paint- be antique – it’s highly unlikely, best are almost as good as the real thing, while almost as good as the real best are less detail and use inferior ones have cheaper Reproductions of Indian miniature paintings Indian miniature Reproductions of varies – the but quality widely available, are an upright Rs 3000). Conven- violin; from from – prices range a bargain tional violins are Rs 3000 to 15,000. Paintings harmonium (from Rs 3500) and the harmonium (from Rs 3500) lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY Pradesh, withdozensof women’scoopera- shawl isthe KulluValley ( p305 ) inHimachal shawl’s wool. Tibetan antelopes are killed toprovide the shahtoosh broidered withintricate designs.However, goat andangora-rabbit hair. Many are em- from lamb’s-wooltofibres woven fromyak, neys. Shawls are madefromallsortsof wool, as anemergency blanket jour- oncoldnight down jackets. It’sworthbuyingonetouse –they’reweight often better thanthebest Indian shawls are famouslywarmandlight- Shawls, Silk&Saris from Rs150apair. (wooden doll)puppetdramas.Pricesstart wife –andare in traditionallyused sold asapair–depictinghusbandand papier-mâché are puppets.These typically cost aroundRs150. them carefully. Asmalljewellerybox willonly souvenirs totransport inIndiabutyouneed arethese probably themostcost-effective forweight, moons, ballsandbells).Weight and Christmasdecorations(stars, crescent boxes, letter holders, coasters, trays,lamps paintings. Youcanfindpapier-mâché bowls, miniatureor huntingscenesfromMughal feature patterns of animalsandflowers, the amountof Many goldleafused. pieces 1148 The undisputed capital ofThe undisputed capital theIndian is Rajasthan to becharging anunreasonably highprice,simplylookelsewhere. inyourhomecurrency toputthingsinperspective.how mucharupeeisworth Ifavendor seems out oftheshopsayingyou’ll‘thinkaboutit’. agreeable price. finalpriceifyouhead lowertheirso-called You’llfindthatmanyshopkeepers and youcannowworkupdownrespectively insmallincrements untilyoureach amutually by half. The vendor at suchalowoffer, ashowofbeingshocked willmake butthegameisset If youhave absolutely byslashingtheprice noideaofwhatsomethingshouldreally cost,start are thecheapestandpricewon’tgodownmuchlower. ittooobvious–ifyoureturndon’t make tothefirstshop vendor willknowit’sbecausethey Secondly, don’tbuythefirstitem yourfancy.Wanderaroundandpricethings,but thattakes of alltocharge youthereal goingrate. to becharged doubleortriplethe‘real’ price. Souvenir shopsare places probablytheleastlikely accustomed totravellers whohave lotsofmoneyandlittletimetospendit,soyoucanexpect prices. Anywhere elseyouneedtobargain, andbargain intouristhubsare hard.Shopkeepers Government stores andmodernshoppingcentres emporiums,department usuallycharge fixed THE ARTOFHAGGLING Haggling isawayoflife inIndia,butitshouldnever beanangryprocess. inmindexactly Keep Decide howmuchyouwouldbehappypayingandthenexpress acasualinterest inbuying. The first‘rule’tohagglingisnever toshowtoomuchinterest intheitem youwanttobuy. IETR • Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY shawls should beavoided, asrare the placetobuycolourful kathputli

pay atleastRs6000fortheauthentic‘slides pashmina as Rs10,000. shawls wornbyvillage womencostasmuch angora shawl. Theintricately embroidered lamb’s-wool shawl toRs6000forastylish Prices range fromaboutRs200forasimple tives producingvery finewoollenshawls. for aquality embroidered silksari. Guwahati ( p599 ). You’llpayRs3000ormore of silkworms),which are widelyavailable in and ata. Assam isrenowned forits fromVaranasifine silksaris ( p436 ) andKolk- ( p1051 ) inTamil Nadu,butyoucanalsofind soft. of The‘silkcapital’ IndiaisKanchipuram tobewashedbeforeusually needs itbecomes aresilk saris themostexpensive, andthesilk can bereadily adapted Real toother purposes. Uttarakhand. in ( p481) ( are alsofound inRanikhet p478 ) andAlmora mirrorwork. Handmade shawls andtweeds shawls, patterned withsubtleembroideryand region producessomedistinctive woollen broidered shawls. Gujarat’sKutch Bhutanese em- youmayalsofindfantastically Bengal, bold geometric designs.InSikkimandWest the northeaststates are famouslywarm,with made fromamixture of yarns.Shawls from many so-called aware aweddingring’article. that through Be Ladakh andKashmir areLadakh major centres for Saris are avery popularsouvenir, andthey pat silks(producedby different species (wool shawl)production–you’ll pashmina shawlsare actually lonelyplanet.com muga,

endi

DIRECTORY

for (tie- 1149 (a long cloth, (www.fabindia chikan bandhani salwar kameez kurta Punjabi kurta Punjabi . A similar technique . A similar technique Fabindia Fabindia salwar kameez , women’s kurtas and kantha gabba embroidery (flowerwork with cloth paintings in Andhra Pradesh cloth paintings in Andhra (a Southeast Asian technique where where technique (a Southeast Asian phulkari ikat works to preserve patterns traditional Batik It is can be found throughout India. Lucknow ( p419 ) in Uttar Pradesh is noted p419 Lucknow ( Orissa for bright appliqué has a reputation Block-printed and woven fabrics are sold by sold are fabrics woven and Block-printed cushion covers and wall hangings. Jamnagar Jamnagar wall hangings. and covers cushion Woodcarving is a living art all over India. Woodcarving India. is a living art all over walnut wood is used to make In Kashmir, finely carved tables, jewel- wooden screens, by the decora- and trays, inspired lery boxes bats houseboats. Willow cricket trim of tive speciality Kashmiri another inexpensive are (from Rs 150). directions), while women in West Bengal while women directions), complex figura- to make stitches use chain designs called tive is used to make in Kashmir. men’s wedding jackets used for saris and often baggy trousers). over tunic worn dresslike City boutiques produce trendy for women and the similar and styles. fabrics men in a staggering array of ) and p792 as Mumbai ( Big Indian cities such cou- places to pick up haute great Delhi are as well as by talented Indian designers, ture fashions. priced Western moderately Woodcarving cessible items for home decoration and Indian cessible items fashions. and Western and The town weaving). is tie-dyed before thread ), between and Bhubaneswar p643 Pipli ( of eye-catching Puri, produces some particularly used to create appliqué work. The techniques kalamkari striking also used to make and Gujarat are wall hangings and lamp shades. embroidered for hand-woven floral intricate incredibly features which motifs. Punjab is famous for the attractively folksy and horizontal in diagonal, vertical stitches ( p754 ) is famous for its vibrant for its vibrant ) is famous p754 ( dye work), used for saris, and anything scarfs, else that stays still for long enough. Ahmeda- good place to buy Gujarati ) is a p725 bad ( for ) is famous p731 ( and textiles, and used for bedspreads textiles block-printed material. dress in vivid col- India, often fabric shops all over has its own speciality. The Eachours. region India-wide chain-store .com) them into highlyand fabrics, transforming ac- pan- and ma-

him- saris, khadi saris, and

baluchari saris from Kota ( p213 ) p213 saris Kota from ( DIRECTORY •• Shopping (tribal) areas of Gujarat and Gujarat and of (tribal) areas

emporiums around the country. kota doria kota (silk saris from Chanderi) (cotton saris from Maheshwar) khadi -making – every thread in these silk fine -making – every thread (tents) used in weddings and festivals are are used (tents) in weddings and festivals shawls, sheets and saris, which are made saris, and are shawls, sheets which Appliqué is an ancient art in India, with Aurangabad ( p808 ) in Maharashtra is the ) in Maharashtra p808 ( Aurangabad In Adivasi You will find a truly amazing variety of You will find a truly amazing variety of Child labour is sometimes usedChild labour in silk pro- The town of Patan ( p728 ) in Gujarat is the ) in Gujarat p728 ( Patan of The town Rajasthan, small pieces of mirrored glass are glass are mirrored Rajasthan, small pieces of vivid bags, onto fabric, creating embroidered patterns. The traditional lampshades and The traditional lampshades patterns. dals produced using the same technique. most states producing their own version, usu- most states producing their own version, abstract or anthropomorphic ally featuring and much more. more. and much stitched into items such as handbags, wall as handbags, wall such into items stitched clothes bedspreads, covers, hangings, cushion Rajasthan and Himachal Pradesh, textiles are are Rajasthan textiles Pradesh, and Himachal weaving and embroidery techniques around around and embroidery techniques weaving as Goa, such the country. In tourist centres (long shirt and loose-fitting trousers), and trousers), and (long shirt and loose-fitting sales benefit rural communities. (homespun cloth) – hence the government- sell all sorts of superstores These inexpensive cloth, including made from homespun items and kurta pyjamas jackets the popular Nehru backed backed Textile production is India’s major industry, production is India’s major Textile place at production takes and around 40% of as it is known level, where the village duction; see p1052 for more information. for more p1052 duction; see Textiles chanderi chanderi Bishnapur in West Bengal for with weaving usewhich a traditional form of silk thread. untwisted roo thread; cotton, silk and silver from a blend of Rs a mind-blowing from around Rs 6000 to famous for sari 300,000. Other states that are Pradesh for production include Madhya heshwar saris produced at Paithan near Aurangabad saris produced at Paithan range India’s finest – prices some of are prices start at Rs 500. Silk and gold-thread prices start Silk and gold-thread at Rs 500. in Rajasthan. of for the production traditional centre the famous ing, and patterned borders are woven with woven are borders ing, and patterned are versions Slightly gold. less involved real ) – only the warp p758 Rajkotproduced in ( is also used in dyed. Gold thread are threads patola weav- sarisbefore hand dyed is individually lonelyplanet.com centre for the ancient and laborious craft of of craft and laborious the ancient for centre DIRECTORY ferior copiesof thequalitybrands. that there however, ity. Beware, are manyin- near Puducherry, isof qual- particularlyhigh from Auroville,producers. Incense anashram andMysore ( Bengaluru p900 ) beingmajor from herbs,flowers andeucalyptus. daikanal producearomaticandmedicinal oils agarwood tree. Tamil Nadu, Ooty andKo- a rare mouldthatgrowsonthebarkof the fragrances, includingvaluable is amajor centre forthetradeof trad itional oil,andMumbai famous foritssandalwood can befoundaroundIndia. Mysore ( p900 ) is moms andcinnamonbark. states andSikkimare famousforblackcarda- flavour Indiancurries),whilethenortheast go intogarammasala Tamil Naduproducemostof thespicesthat Kerala,nataka, and Pradesh,Rajasthan Uttar produced spices atcash-and-carry prices.Kar- towns have shopsandmarkets locally selling Indian scentsandspicesare famous.Most Other Buys from Rs3000upwards. whitewood orpapier-mâchéfrom lightweight sometimes findgenuine masks are artless reproductions, butyoucan forritualdances.Mostofmasks, used the of luckysigns,dragonsand theeight Tibetan refugee areas. You’llfindwallplaques Arunachal Pradeshandall Sikkim, Ladakh, presents. at manyHindupilgrimage sites are alsogood androllers available wheels wooden massage fromteak wood.Thecarved blocks carved youcanalsofindfabricprinting Rajasthan frommangowood.Inmanypartsof carved paintedbuy brightly figures of Hindu gods chintzy appeal. from woodinlayinGoaalsohave acertain als andbone. Thereligious iconsproduced traysandboxestabletops, inlaidwithmet- crafts –you’llfindwoodenwallhangings, for years. Woodinlayisoneof Bihar’soldest willrelease fragrance thesandalwood ever, compared toRs300inkadambwood.How- Ganesh costsaroundRs3000insandalwood, ’ ransomforthereal thing–a10cm-high one of Karnataka’s specialities,butyou’llpaya 1150 Indian incense isexported worldwide,with Indian incense oilmadefromflowers) shops (essential Attar of Hindudeitiesis Sandalwood carvings Buddhist woodcarvings are aspecialityof Buddhist woodcarvings In Udaipur( p227 youcan ) inRajasthan, IETR • Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY

(the ‘hot mix’ used to (the ‘hotmix’used chaam oud, masksmade madefrom chaam chaam ful arrow, easily purchased inShillong.arrow, easilypurchased Another uniquesouvenir isatribalbowand each tribehasitsownuniquebasket shape. ful hand-woven baskets andwickerwork – the NortheastStates are noted fortheirbeauti- are front, aspeciality. Alsoontheportables customs whenyouget backhome. phernalia canlandyouinalotof troublewith para- used the paraphernaliaisnot–however, drugsisillegalbutbuying ing andpossessing tional claychillums (pipesof hookahs). Smok- and Sikkim,aswellpartsof SouthIndia. ( p541 Assam) andKalimpong inWestBengal, also interesting quaffs. labels. FruitwinesfromHimachal Pradesh are Sula, Grover andChateau Indage are allgood wines producedbyvineyardsinMaharashtra; litre. Indiaisalsogainingareputation forthe ataroundRs200per for Indianspiritsstart shaped bottlewithascrew-off head.Prices bottle of OldMonkrumcomesinamonk- many comeinfunky-shapedbottles–the1L liquors arebottles. Sikkimese alsogoodand spinning spiritthatoften comesindecorative tilled fromcoconutmilkorcashews),ahead- Mumbai’s Chimanlals( p793 ). available ( inDelhi’s ChowriBazaar p153 ) and Indian cardsandpaper andenvelope are sets Ganj( McLeod p328 embellished ). Lavishly able inPuducherry ( p1063 and ), Darjeeling into cards,boxes andnotebooks –isavail- rific souvenirs. thangkas singing bowls,hand-bells, and prayerwheels prayer flags,wallhangings,trumpets, drums, religious‘Buddha shops’selling objectssuch as keep aneyeoutfor limpong andDarjeeling, Manali, Ganj,Leh, as McLeod Gangtok, Ka- dealers maybeable toarrange exportlicenses. auctionrooms( up inKolkata’s p511 ). Better gemsing antiques,whileoccasionalRaj show Mumbai ( p792 ) and Delhialsohave shopssell- India’scultural heritage. Bikaner, to preserve export of manykindsof antiquesisbanned recommend onlybuyingreproductions –the dow frames,ornamentsandfurnishings. We with numerouslarge win- showroomsselling Jodhpur ( p240 ) isfamedforits antiques, In ( p687 ) inMadhya Pradesh,colour- Quality Indian tea issoldinDarjeeling Fine-quality handmadepaper–often made In mosttraveller centres, you’llfindtradi- In townswithBuddhistpopulations,such jari One specialityof Goaisfeni shoulderbags,embroidered withbeads, (see (see p1147 ), allof which make ter- lonelyplanet.com

(liquor dis- DIRECTORY

1151

(www.indiawhitepages (www.indiayellowpages.com)

White Pages Yellow Pages Yellow and In most towns you simply buy a prepaid In most towns you simply buy a prepaid Note that getting a line can be difficult that getting in Note Some places also offer a ‘call-back’ service a ‘call-back’ Some places also offer – India has both Call centres charge the full rate from from the full rate charge Call centres unlocked, or buy a local phone (available from a local phone (available or buy unlocked, Rs 2300) to use an Indian SIM card. mobile-phone kit (SIM card and phone calls) for around number, plus an allocation of or local PCO/STD/ Rs 150 from a phone shop cafés or grocery stores. internet ISD booths, online. online. – an en- country and mountain areas remote signal may just mean that the exchange gaged trying. so keep is overloaded, Mobile Phones crazy and there India is going mobile-phone GSM for international is roaming coverage towns and cities. Mo- phones in most large in India usually have bile phone numbers 10 digits, typically starting with 9. To avoid highest for roaming costs (often expensive up to the local hooked incoming calls), get boughtmobile-phone network. Mobiles in to a par- locked often countries are Western the phone to get ticular network; you’ll have slides, with the cheapest time to call being time to call slides, with the cheapest calls are between6am. Interstate 11pm and half-price international on Sunday. Direct from Rs 22 to 40 range calls from call booths the country you depending on per minute all the more much charge calling. Hotels are little as Rs 5 calls for as International time. through can be made internet per minute Skype and other net- cafés using Net2phone, phone services. the phone number of you ring home, provide the booth and wait for people at home to call the Rs 5 to 10 on top of of you back, for a fee call. the preliminary cost of .com) TELEPHONE TELEPHONE private in India, but payphones few are There do the same job, call booths PCO/STD/ISD and in- local, interstate inexpensive offering lower prices than much are calls ternational booths rooms. Many hotel calls made from and a digital displays meter open 24 hours, are a call is costing and provides the how much Faxes the call is finished. when receipt printed or from the can be sent centres, from some call or BSNL Customer exchange local telephone Service Centre. around 9am to 8pm. After 8pm the cost 8pm the cost After around 9am to 8pm.

Thorntree forum . Throughout India, DIRECTORY •• Solo Travellers

Perhaps the most significant issue facing the most significant issue facing Perhaps Although most solo travellers experience Although most solo travellers

For important information specific to For important information specific to In terms of transport, you’ll save money you’ll save transport, of In terms You can find a phenomenal range of books books of a phenomenal range You can find Hats are a popular buy through popular buy a India – the are Hats women, see p1160 . p1160 women, see hiring a car with driver. hiring a car with driver. if you find others to share taxis and auto- to share if you find others rickshaws. This is also advisable if you intend trying to negotiate a lower rate for single for single a lower rate trying to negotiate occupancy. range and top-end places don’t even offer and top-end places don’t even offer range a single tariff. However, it’s always worth guesthouses and hotels are sometimes not sometimes not guesthouses are and hotels some mid- rates; lower than double much solo travellers is cost. Single-room rates at at is cost. Single-room rates solo travellers world, it’s wise to stay on your toes in un- familiar surroundings. lone tourists as an easy target for theft. Don’t lone tourists as an easy target else the in anywhere be paranoid, but like no major problems in India, some less hon- problems no major view alike) ourable souls (locals and travellers you’ll probably see the same faces over and seeyou’ll probably the same faces over trip. again on your over (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) so in the same direction, to move people tend with. You might also try advertising for travel for travel with. You might also try advertising companions on Lonely Planet’s good places to swap stories, get up-to-the- good places to swap stories, get tips and find people to travel travel minute are good places for solo travellers to network. good places for solo travellers are are and restaurants hotels The main traveller SOLO TRAVELLERS SOLO TRAVELLERS as Goa, Rajasthan, Manali, Tourist hubs such and Varanasi McLeod Kerala Ganj, Leh, Agra, tourist towns, along with original and pirate original and pirate tourist towns, along with both Bollywood and DVD movies, copies of international. Pirate copies of Western CDs are available in in available CDs are Western copies of Pirate include Ravi Shankar (sitar), Nusrat Fateh include Ravi (sitar), Nusrat Fateh Shankar Ali Khan Urdu vocals) and Na- (traditional flutist). (traditional Tibetan wang Khechog musicians are also good value, costing Rs value, costing Rs also good musicians are popular artists 100 or less – perennially in India, including excellent cook books and cook books and in India, including excellent glossy coffee-tablelocal photo books. CDs by layan tribes; they’re available in many towns in many available they’re layan tribes; under Rs 150. for Pradesh in Himachal India. Also popular are the traditional caps the traditional caps are Also popular India. Hima- and women from India’s worn by men and Tibetan refugees produce woollen hats, produce refugees and Tibetan and scarves, sold all over are which gloves Assamese make decorated reed-pith sun hats, sun hats, reed-pith decorated make Assamese lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY then thearea code andthelocalnumber. the country codeof thecountryyou are calling, 00 (international accesscode fromIndia),then number. zero whencallingfromabroad), thenthelocal for India),thenthearea code(droptheinitial you’re in,then91(international countrycode the international accesscodeof thecountry country. of asyoutravel newdevelopments roundthe with limited warning.Itpaystokeep abreast may change andnewdigitsaddedtonumbers system,in Indiaontothesame soarea codes ment isslowlytryingtobringallnumbers digits.Thegovern-followed byuptoeight Regular phonenumbers have anarea code Phone Codes likely over todevelop thelife of thisbook. mobile rates, suppliers andcoverage are all outgoing calls. will becharged forincomingcallsaswell you payforcallsatroamingrates andyou inotherstates, but cific; theycanbeused best. Note thatmostSIMcardsare state spe- Idea andBSNL.LocalsswearBSNListhe are Airtel, Hutch (Orange insomestates), to get through). messages orreplies being delayedorfailing problems withinternational texting (with ellers have reported unreliable signalsand cheaper thecallrate. sometrav- However, more credit youhave onyourphone,the minute. SMS cheaper. iseven messaging The call internationally forlessthanRs25per less thanRs1per minute –andyoucan which theSIMcardare youbought cheap – before youbuy. to yourphone–askwhich system isinuse vendor andthecredit isdeposited straight placed bydirect credit, where youpaythe some networks,recharge cardsare beingre- charges first. comeoff taxes For andservice not theamountyouget onyourphone–state The amountyoupayforacredit top-upis vary withtheamountof credit onthecard. timelimitandcosts withinaset ally beused shops andcallcentres.same Credit mustusu- on thatnetwork,soldasscratch-cards inthe Thereafter, newcredits youmustpurchase 1152 To make aninternational call The mostpopular(andreliable) companies madewithinthestate orcityinCalls To make acall As themobile-phone industryisevolving, IETR • Tm ••Time DIRECTORY to Indiafromoverseas, dial from India, dial India,dial to maximise daylight hours daylight overto maximise such avast able Time’. Thefloatinghalfhourwasadded many affectionately dubit‘IndianStretch- as IST Time), (IndianStandard although can EST. timeisknown Thelocalstandard Time (EST) and10½hours aheadof Ameri- hours Standard behindAustralianEastern India is5½hours aheadof GMT/UTC, 4½ TIME Some countriesandtheirnumbers: the countrycodeof yourhomecountry+17. The numberistypicallyconstructed reverse-charge (collect)orphonecardcalls. the priceof alocalcall,youcanthenmake national operatorinyourhomecountry.For which gives you accesstotheinter-service, towns. However, paper (as well as sanitary paper (aswellassanitary towns. However, let paper, itiswidelyavailable incities and for hand-washing. Ifyouprefer toi- touse carrysomesoap todothe same, you choose a smalljugof water and yourlefthand.If which involves cleaningyour bottomwith prefer the‘hand-and-water’ technique, Indian toilets. andajug;see just atap p1127 formore on therecarry yourowntoiletpaperincase is always have sit-downtoilets, butbesure to quite filthy.Upmarket restaurants almost of Rs1to2applies),buttheytend tobe squat toiletsinmanytowns(anentryfee and cinemas.There are publicurinalsand upmarketmuseums, shopping complexes toilets are at restaurants andfast-food chains, major citiesandtourist sites. Thecleanest Public toilets are generally confinedtothe TOILETS pp1234–5. theworldtimezonesmap, country. See USA UK Spain New Zealand Netherlands Japan Italy Germany Canada Australia Country Number Also available istheHomeCountryDirect When it comes to effluent etiquette, localsWhen itcomestoeffluent % % % % % % % % % % 000117 0004417 0003417 0006417 0003117 0008117 0003917 0004917 000167 0006117 lonelyplanet.com % 000 + DIRECTORY 1153 Entering the northeast states of Arunachal Arunachal the northeast states of Entering Most permits officially require you to travel you to travel Most permits officially require with It’s not a bad idea to double-check The crowded public transport, crush of hu- of The crowded public transport, crush can test infrastructure manity and variable you If traveller. even the hardiest able-bodied vision a physical disability or you are have a challenge. these of poseimpaired, even more rise above However, many disabled travellers these obstacles. ised tour and let the travel agent make all the make agent ised tour and let the travel for further details. p592 Seearrangements. also are four (married couples in a group of This is enforced in in certain areas). permitted may agents – travel some places, not in others get to help solo travellers suggestions have that you can Note around these restrictions. on the permit, to the places listed only travel by set and this is hard to change routes, often the permit is issued. after to seetourism officials if permit requirements before changes any recent undergone have you head out to these areas. TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES routes passing close to the border. ILPs are are ILPs passing closeroutes to the border. and district magistrates issued by regional to travellers either directly commissioners, (for a fee). agents or throughtravel (for free) (Ladakh), p366 Pradesh), (Himachal for (Sikkim) p282 See p570 (Uttaranchal) and p483 additional information. and Mizoram is Nagaland, Manipur Pradesh, a Restricted harder – tourists require much must be arranged (RAP), which Permit Area Regional Registration through Foreigners’ Offices permission offices. (FRRO) Ultimate Home Affairs comes from the Ministry of to issue permits is reluctant in Delhi, which – without exception, your best to foreigners gaining a permit is to join an organ- of chance .com; Suite 1808, 1270 Ave of the Americas, NY New York, Ave 1808, 1270 .com; Suite 100201700) TRAVEL PERMITS India – particularly Access to certain parts of a – is controlled by areas border disputed A permit known system. permit complicated to (ILP) is required Permit as an Inner-Line La- Pradesh, Himachal parts of visit northern dakh, Uttarakhand lie close and Sikkim that border with China/Tibet. to the disputed Obtaining the ILP is basically a formality, must apply on your behalf agents but travel including many trekking for certain areas, . Here you’ll . Here 212-586 4901; ad@itonyc % ( 213-380 8855; indiatourismla@aol DIRECTORY •• Tourist Information 011-3250880; [email protected]; 020-6208991; info.nl@india-tourism

(www.incredibleindia.org) % ( 069-2429490; [email protected]; 02-9264 4855; [email protected]; % % ( ( 416-962 3787; [email protected]; 60 01 45 23 30 45; [email protected]; 11-13 New York 03-3571 5062; [email protected]; Art % % ( 02-8053506; [email protected]; Via ( % % 020-7437 3677; [email protected]; 7 ( ( % ( %

( Los Angeles %

The first stop for information should be the should stop for information The first ( Cork St, London W1S 3LH) Bloor St, West Ste 1003, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8) .com; Rokin 9/15, 1012 KK ) Albricci 9, Milan 20122) Basler Strasse 48, D-60329 Frankfurt am-Main 1) Level 2, Piccadilly, 210 Pitt St, Sydney, NSW 2000) 210 Pitt 2, Piccadilly, Level .com; Room 204, 3550 Wiltshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA .com; Room 204, 3550 Wiltshire 900102485); Craighall 2024, Hyde Lane, Lancaster Gate, Johannesburg 2000) USA UK South Africa Netherlands Japan Italy Germany Canada France Australia The Government of India operates the follow- India operates of The Government ing tourist offices abroad. Tourist Offices Abroad Tourist Offices Abroad at the bottom of the homepage. You can also the homepage. at the bottom of find useful on the official information state a list on india there’s websites; government .gov.in/knowindia/districts.php. find information in English, French, German, French, find information in English, For details and Hindi. of Spanish, Korean offices around India, click on ‘Links’ regional tourism website of the Government of India, India, of the Government of tourism website Incredible India for a small fee. for a small fee. local map. Booklets listing state-owned tourist state-owned local map. Booklets listing or for free available are bungalows and hotels tion tours. Most of the tourist offices have free free the tourist offices have Most of tion tours. (or inexpensive) free a and often brochures sale of State Tourism Development State Corpora- sale of their efficiency run and usefulness – some are their way go out of by enthusiastic souls who for the a vehicle basically are to help, others In addition to the excellent Government of of to the excellent Government addition In state maintains its each offices, India tourist offices. tourist These vary in of own network TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Offices Local Tourist blocked drains. drains. blocked napkins and tampons)napkins goes bin beside in the and easily- the narrow not into the toilet, lonelyplanet.com Blvd Haussmann, F-75009 Paris) Masters Ginza, Chuo-Ku, Ginza Bldg, 6th-9th fl, 6-5-12 104-0061) DIRECTORY (valid fromthedate of issue)are granted your country. your nationality withtheIndian embassyin countries. Check any specialconditionsfor Asian European, AfricanandCentral Eastern andPakistan,Bangladesh aswellcertain are additionalrestrictions ontravellers from fromthedate oftry, starting issue. There ofonly spendatotal 180daysinthecoun- and leave asoften asyoulike, butyoucan how longyouintend You canenter tostay. to nationalsof mostcountriesregardless of 72-hour transitvisa. enforced (check inadvance),exceptforthe butthisisnotalways ment formostvisas, trains. Anonwardtravel ticket isarequire- on such astourist quotas tourist services conditions andalsorestrict youraccessto have andbusinessvisas Student visas strict which ismore thanadequate formostneeds. people travel touristvisa, onthestandard sions worldwide;see p1134 forlistings.Most areand these easilyavailable atIndianmis- You mustget avisa VISAS .access-able.com. good websites onthenet,includingwww way, Eugene,OR97401,USA) % 8AF, UK) .radar.org.uk; 12CityForum,250Rd,LondonEC1V and Rehabilitation vice includethe have notspaceinthebootforawheelchair. petroleum gas-powered inlarge taxis cities whole loteasier(see p1172 ). Note thatthe new a carwithdriver willmake moving arounda able-bodied companion.Additionally,hiring you maylike toconsidertravelling withan down quickly. spare rubbercapsforthetipsastheywillwear crutches, bringalong rooms and,ifyouuse movement. Trytobookground-floor hotel debris andpacked withpedestrians,hindering exist atall,are riddledwithholes,littered with floors. Footpaths andpavements, where they lifts frequently stopatmezzaninesbetween areleast onestep. often Staircases and steep haverants andoffices ramps,butmosthave at friendly hotels (mostlytopend).Somerestau- 1154 Six-month multiple-entrytouristvisas India hasalimited numberof wheelchair- Organisations thatmayoffer furtherad- If yourmobility isconsiderably restricted 541-3431284; www.miusa.org; Suite343,132EBroad- IETR • Vss ••Visas DIRECTORY and Mobility International USA Mobility International Royal Association forDisability RoyalAssociation

(RADAR; before . There are alsosome % arrivinginIndia 020-7250 3222;www

(MIUSA; 1 ; the placetocomeforareplacement if visa from theHyattRegency hotel. Thisisalso circumstances wherecircumstances conceivably thismight 1.30pm &2-3pmMon-Fri) Puram, Krishna Delhi; 1,Rama Block 8,Sector six-month tourist visa there.six-month touristvisa orNepalandapplyingforanother Bangladesh run’overtime, considerdoingthe‘visa to at theendof yourvisa. Ifyourunlowon just before youplannedtoleave thecountry happen isifyouwere robbedof yourpassport SinghRd,Delhi; Jaisalmer House,Man of HomeAffairs cally possibleatthediscretion of the extensionsFourteen-day visa are theoreti- Visa Extensions your visa. specialconditionswhenyouapplyfor these 14 daysof arrivinginIndia;inquire about (FRRO;see Registration Office below ) within toregisterneed at the Foreigners’ Regional your embassy formore details. non-Indian passportandlive abroad.Contact inPakistanthose whoholda andBangladesh) sible forpeopleof Indiandescent (excluding pay just¥1200. applies atconsulates) andJapanese citizens fee lians payA$75(anextraA$15service pay UK£30,AmericansUS$60,Austra- of travel. not togiveficial stamps, youtwoextraweeks of thecountry promptlywiththecorrect of- that thissystem isdesigned toget youout pages).passport (information andvisa Note one passportphotoandaphotocopy of your You mustbringyourconfirmedair ticket, Russia (Rs1860)andRomania (Rs 500). 405, dependingonthenumberof entries), except Japan (Rs135 to (Rs390),SriLanka of 14days,free fornationalsof allcountries the FRROispermitted toissue anextension an extension. Regional FRROs are lesslikely even togrant (required before you canleave thecountry). you’ve hadyourlost/stolenpassportreplaced Office Registration ers’ Regional the an extension, youshouldcontact Mon-Fri)

% For visas lastingmoreFor visas thansixmonths, you areVisas pricedinthelocalcurrency; Brits If you do find yourself needing torequest needing If youdofindyourself (uptofiveExtended visas years) are pos- Assuming thestringent youmeet criteria, 011-26195530; [email protected];Level 2,East butdon’tget yourhopesup.Theonly

Mp pp132-3; (Map , justaroundthecorner

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(FRRO; Map (FRRO; Map 011-23385748; 26 inquiries 9-11am inquiries h Ministry Ministry Foreign- 9.30am- pp120- DIRECTORY

(www (www 1155

(COVA; (COVA; (www.work

, or use the 044-22235133; 079-27559050; 044-25956928; % 0141-2393319/ % ( % 022-22880129; www ( % (RIM; ( 022-23063647/51; www % 044-25567228; www ( . World Volunteer Web % Chennai 080-23533942; www.atree.org; 080-23533942; www.atree.org;

Working Abroad % Ahmedabad 0141-2760803; hisjpr@datainfo ( , 9844026222; www.thefamilyindia % Worldwide Volunteering 07686-274237; globalvillage@ (CRY; % ( % Career Break Book Break Career ( % 080-25457607; www.equitabletourism ( and (Atree; (Atree; % ( contact them in advance, rather than

and the and the 01982-253331; Ecology Centre, Leh) 01982-253331; Ecology Centre, 040-24572984; www.covanetwork.org; 20-4-10, % 831/1 Bhimjipura, Wadaj) 659 5th A Main Rd, Hebbal, Bengaluru 560024) 79 Main Rd, Royapuram); www.india-movement.org; A1 Monisha Sriram Flats, 9 Kulothungan Cross St, Chittlapakkam, Chennai 600064) % Charminar, Hyderabad) 2391690; www.dishafoundation.org; Disha Path, Nirman 2391690; www.dishafoundation.org; Disha Path, Nagar-C, Jaipur 302019) ( Missionaries of Charity Rejuvenate India Movement .cry.org; 189A Anand Estate, Sane Guruji Marg, Mumbai) Equations ServicesFamily Freedom Foundation Global Village Help in Suffering Ladakh Ecological Development Group fered a position. Donations of money or cloth- a position. Donations of fered may also be welcomed. ing from travellers that unless otherwise volun- Note indicated, their own costs to cover expected are teers transport etc). (accommodation, food, Ashoka Trust for Research in Ecology & the Environment Child Rights & You Concern India Foundation Confederation of Voluntary Associations Disha – Centre for Special Education, Vocational Training and Rehabilitation Book searching – internet for ‘volunteering’on and agencies of bring up pages Google will Some good volunteer opportunities. listings of include starting sites .worldvolunteerweb.org) .worldwidevolunteering.org.uk) Aid Programmes in India in India programmes listings of Following are opportunities for volunteers. that may have Always expecting to be of-turning up on the doorstep .org; 68, 2nd fl, Transpade Towers, Koramangala Industrial Layout, Jyothi Nivas College Rd, Bengaluru 560095) indiatimes.com; Mainindiatimes.com; Rd, Khajuraho) .concernindia.org; 3rd fl, Ador House, 6K Dubash Marg,.concernindia.org; Mumbai) .org; 415, 2nd C Cross, 4th Main Rd, OMBR Layout, Banaswadi Post, Bengaluru 560043) .thefreedomfoundation.org; 15 United Colony, Red.thefreedomfoundation.org; Hills Rd, Kolathur, Chennai) sys.net; Maharani Farm, Durgapura, Jaipur 302018) Durgapura, Jaipur Maharani sys.net; Farm, ingabroad.com) ingabroad.com) (www

(www.indi Gap Year Gap Year Voluntary Ser- the the , that volunteer Indicorps Ethical Volunteering Volunteer, has some excellent guide- DIRECTORY •• Volunteering (VSO; www.vso.org.uk) matches volunteers to projects across to projects volunteers matches

To find sending agencies in your area, look in your area, To find sending agencies There are some tried and tested interna- some tried and tested are There The organisation The organisation at Lonely Planet’s for listings click on www.indianngos.com. development. There are special fellowships for special fellowships are development. There India. Indian descent living outside people of volunteer work; also offer Indian NGOs Many corps.org) corps.org) commitment can be as much as two years. The as two years. commitment can be as much organisation international vice Overseas roles, though the time in serious professional tional projects, such as Britain’s such tional projects, signing up for something that just sounds like signing up for something that just sounds like a fun thing to do. period to volunteer – and look for projects – and look for projects period to volunteer you use your existing skills, rather than where ence – a month is a reasonable minimum time ence – a month is a reasonable .ethicalvolunteering.org) volunteer rather than finding the right volun- teer for the work that needs to be done. go are almost certainly to the tailoring projects go are trying to assess which ones have ethical poli- trying to assess have ones which in lots short projects that offer cies. Agencies countries whenever you want to different of There are hundreds of international volun- international of hundreds are There and it can be bewildering teering agencies, approved for the kind of work involved. involved. work kind of for the approved Agencies Overseas unteers who have applied in advance and been who have unteers time to make a real contribution. It is possible a real time to make in India, arrive you to find a placement after vol- normally prefer NGOs and but charities agenda. Stick to manual tasks such as litter as litter Stick to manual tasks such agenda. unless you have clearing and support roles and informed by local people. Be that and informed by local people. aware a conversion have charities many religious teer agencies will work to make small, sustain- make will work to teer agencies letting the process be guided able changes, instead look for longer-term opportunities look for longer-term instead Better your specific skills. volun- that require community. It is unlikely that you will do that you will do It is unlikely community. for a week – children good by teaching much ever, there is a growing backlash against the is a growing ever, there casual volunteering for the that exists mainly the volunteer rather than the host benefit of agencies work in India, and there are plenti- are in India, and there work agencies How- volunteers. for foreign ful opportunities VOLUNTEERING VOLUNTEERING aid international and charities Numerous lonelyplanet.com India in all sorts of fields, particularly social India in all sorts of lines for choosing an ethical sending lines for choosing agency. a differ- Always allow enough time to make DIRECTORY Andhra Pradesh,workingwithwomen,chil- around 800NGOs, predominantly in based Sahid Nagar,Bhubaneswar751007) Sahid 400011) School,FarooqueMunicipal UmarbhouyLane,Mumbai, Bhavan Hriday order Kolkata-based There are two branches of Mother Teresa’s DELHI or craftbackgroundispreferred). for volunteers tohelpwithtraining(a design There are opportunitiesand woodcarving. terracotta, ironworkandothermetalwork, ages localemploymentintheproduction of Kondagaon) 242852; [email protected]; The NGO-runcrafts-complex CHHATTISGARH & Institutions, p560 fordetails. Schools Bihar, bothlongandshort term. See in schools andcommunityprojects around ers, carers, healthprofessionals andotherroles There are teach- opportunitiesforvolunteer BIHAR opportunities forvolunteer vets. cue sickandmistreated animals.There are Prasanthi NilayamPost,Anantapur515134) Nilayam, 2/138/CKaruna 287214; www.karunasociety.org; SocietyforAnimals&Nature Karuna preferred). theirskills(long-termthat need volunteers ture. Volunteers are matched toprogrammes dren, agricul- civil liberties andsustainable nar, Hyderabad) % The ANDHRA PRADESH Wildlife SocietyofOrissa Vatsalya Foundation Village SOS Children’s Establishment &Inter-Learning Situational Management Mandir Seva Saathi 1156 Mahalaxmi, Mumbai) Mahalaxmi, DrEMoses Rd, VMemorial, George King Niketan, Old Fatehpura, Udaipur313004) Kolkata 700129) Kolkata Gate, No9Rail ngo.org; Udayrajpur,Madhyamgram, .sos-childrensvillages.org; JhotwaraRd,Jaipur) With an animal hospital andsanctuary, With ananimalhospital 040-24572984; www.covanetwork.org; 20-4-10,Charmi- 040-24572984; www.covanetwork.org;

Confederation of Voluntary Associations a pp120-1 ; Map

( a pp120-1 ; Map IETR • Vlnern ••Volunteering DIRECTORY % 022-23520053; www.saathi.org; Agripada 022-23520053; www.saathi.org;Agripada ( isanumbrella organisation for % (SMILE;

% 0294-2450960; www.sevamandir.org;

% 011-23812180; 1 Magazine Rd; 011-23812180; 1Magazine ( ( % % % 011-23950181; 12Commission- Missionaries of Charity ofCharity Missionaries 033-30956494; www.smile ( 022-24962115; Anand % 0141-2280262; www 0671-2311513; A-320, SAATHI workstores-

( encour- ( % % 08555- ( (COVA; 07786-

Nirmal Shishu volunteers withcurrent projects aroundthe street children. Volunteers toteach English tion andothersupporttoDelhi’shomeless India Bookstore, Mapusa, Goa403507) India Bookstore, Mapusa, carers, teachers andmedicsatitsprojects for Foundation group,the Goa’s leadingenvironmental GOA about otherSOSprojects inIndia. (apply inadvance).See p1159 for information teach Englishforaminimumof three months There are periodicopenings forvolunteers to orphan, abandonedanddestitute children. A7NizammudinWest) 24359734; www.soscvindia.org; child –see p139 . atourwithstreetyou canhelpisbytaking and othersubjectsare welcome. Anotherway Bazaar, Paharganj) 23681803; www.salaambaalaktrust.com;Chandiwalan,Main harganj, information. themwellinadvanceforcountry; contact fl, AmarColony,LajpatNagar4) % to allvolunteers. tion hasareligious agenda thatwillnotappeal destitute theorganisa- anddying.However, only), whileNirmalHridaycares forthesick, Bhavan looksafter infants(female volunteers ers Lane) Retreat, Shahibaug, Ahmedabad380004) Shahibaug, Retreat, dation with thereligious agenda. unteers only).Somemay be uncomfortable takes care of abandoned infants(female vol- Ahmedabad) Charity Mother Teresa’s Kolkata-based GUJARAT check. acriminalbackground needs volunteer every The minimumplacementisthree months and homeless children and orphansnearMapusa. 0JJ, UK) Notts,NG19 Forest Town,Mansfield, .com; 54ClipstoneDrive, TallWalking themfordetails. ups; contact programmes,includinglittervoluntary clean- SOS Children’s Village Village SOS Children’s Near theHotel NamaskarinDelhi’sPa- The The British-based organisation Also inAhmedabad isthe 011-26210997; [email protected]; RoomA52,1st

has opportunities for volunteer child hasopportunitiesforvolunteer

Mp p719 ; (Map ( , which welcomevolunteers. Shishu % Concern IndiaFoundation Salaam BaalakTrust hasabranch inAhmedabadthat

079-27559050; 831/1Bhimjipura,NaraWadaj, ( ( % % provides shelter, food,educa- 0832-2263305; www.olb.com; c/o Other 0832-2263305; www.olb.com;c/oOther 01623-450944; www.childrenwalkingtall % 079-2867698; www.ahfindia.org; 5 079-2867698; www.ahfindia.org; maybeabletolink Mp pp132-3; (Map , runsoccasional Mp p140; (Map lonelyplanet.com Animal HelpFoun- , which helps Missionaries of Missionaries Mp pp120-1 ; (Map

Children Children

% % assists 011- 011- Goa

DIRECTORY / %

(Map 1157 runs a is com- ; register ; register is an NGO ( p1138 ).

(Map p494 ; Motherhouse 080-23533942; www.atree 033-30956494; www.smilengo % 9844026222; www.thefamilyin % CalcuttaRescue and Swabhava works to promote ‘holistic ‘holistic works to promote

% (Atree; (Atree;

( 080-25457607; www.equitabletourism080-25457607; (SMILE; Ashoka Research Trust for in Ecology %

(

033-22497115; 54A AJC Bose Rd) % Situational Management & Inter-Learning

The Started in 1979, Family ServicesFamily Equations provides medical care and health education medical care provides It may also be possible to volunteerIt may also be possible at the fax 033-22175675; www.calcuttarescue.com; 4th fl, 85 Collins 4th fl, 85 Collins fax 033-22175675; www.calcuttarescue.com; St) Kolkatafor the poor and disadvantaged of and West Bengal. has six- to The organisation nine-month openings for experienced medi- contactcal staff, and administrators; teachers vacancies. for current it directly pp488-9 ; placements information about more and get at 3pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Note has beenthat this organisation criticised over agenda. sustainability issues and its religious Establishment .org; Udayrajpur, Madhyamgram, No 9 Rail Gate) young people.working with Kolkata’s destitute home and pro- children’s It runs a residential at assistance children to homeless vides direct Sealdah accepted are train station. Volunteers staysfor two-week work camps and longer to participate,lasting up to a year (you pay a fee meals and accommodation). covers which dia.org; 68, 2nd fl, Transpade Towers, Koramangala Industrial 68, 2nd fl, Transpade Towers, Koramangala dia.org; Bengaluru 560095) Layout, Jyothi Nivas College Rd, Bengaluru support groups gay-and-lesbian ) p1138 Sangama ( KOLKATA the Missionaries Founded by Mother Teresa, has opportunities at several Charity care of homes around Kolkata, including Nirmal Dan (for Hriday (home for the dying), Prem Bhavan the sick and mentally ill) and Shishu The administrative (for orphaned children). is the for volunteers centre KARNATAKA Bengaluru’s & the Environment .org; 659 5th A Main Rd, Hebbal, Bengaluru 560024) re- to sustainable development issues mitted to conservationlated takes It and biodiversity. interest experience or a keen with volunteers in conservation environmental and issues. .org; 415, 2nd C Cross, 4th Main Rd, OMBR Layout, Banaswadi Post, Bengaluru 560043) from local communities tourism’ and protect exploitation through lobbying, local training publications. programmes and research school for slum kids – it’s possible to visit at school runs pro- to help out. It also the weekends grammes in Delhi and Mumbai. is ; see p342 p342 ; see has place- Jamyang Foun- works to pro- International Society 01803-868650; www.isec.org . 619-260-4600; www.jamyang %

( Ladakh Ecological Develop- % (

DIRECTORY •• Volunteering 01982-253331; Ecology Centre, Leh) 01982-253331; Ecology Centre, Himalayan Buddhist Cultural School % (

619-260-4600; www.jamyang.org; 5998 Alcala % (

01902-251845; [email protected]) About 6km south of Manali in the village in the village Manali 6km south of About Many international volunteer sending volunteer sending international Many The local NGO The British-based charity charity The British-based Volunteer placements for teachers at at Volunteer placements for teachers Volunteer placements for experienced placements for experienced Volunteer % p1155 for details. agencies also offer placements in Ladakh; also offer agencies see involved in environmental education and in environmental education and involved sustainable development; contact the group for ways to help. directly ment Group mote sustainable development in rural parts mote one-month placements Ladakh. are of There Ladakhison rural farms that aim to give con- cross-cultural and foster their future trol over to directly contactunderstanding; the charity find out exactly how you can help. for Ecology and Culture .uk; Foxhole, Dartington, Devon TQ9 6EB, UK) Buddhist schools for girls in ZanskarBuddhist schools can be through the US-based arranged dation remote areas; for details, see p373 . p373 for details, see areas; remote for long-term volunteer placements, and there volunteer placements, and there for long-term that clean the rubbish from also tours are skar and Ladakh. monastery Buddhist Many English of needschools experienced teachers ley is complicated by the security by the ley is complicated situation, numerous opportunities in Zan- are but there JAMMU & KASHMIR & KASHMIR JAMMU Val- Kashmir the and Jammu Volunteering in .org; 5998 Alcala Park, San Diego, CA 92110-2492) .org; 5998 Alcala Park, information. for more nery schools in Spiti through nery schools the US-based Jamyang Foundation teachers can be arranged at Buddhist nun- can be arranged teachers is a working school, so call or email before or email before so call is a working school, turning up on the doorstep. ing to volunteer for six months or more. This or more. for six months ing to volunteer of Rangri,of the ( and short term. See p325 for more details. for more p325 Seeand short term. McLeod capitalvolunteering Ganj is the of with numerous opportun- Pradesh, Himachal both long refugees, with Tibetan ities to work HIMACHAL PRADESH PRADESH HIMACHAL Makar Sakranti kite festival. Opportunities festival. Sakranti kite Makar and animal carers. exist for vets destitute animals, including street dogs and street animals, including destitute the wounded during birds the thousands of lonelyplanet.com Park, San Diego, CA 92110-2492) Park, ments for experienced teachers who are will- who are ments for experienced teachers DIRECTORY tour groups. as theplasticbagsleftlittering thetownby which targets problemssuch environmental husbandry andrenewable energy. Volunteer animal development, a focusonsustainable www.bhopal.org; BafnaColony,BerasiaRd) unteers atitsclinicproviding long-term care Estate, Sane GurujiMarg) & You In Mumbai, the independenttrust MUMBAI are appreciated. receives nogovernment fundingsodonations modation are provided buttheorganisation for womenandchildren. Meals andaccom- programmes and community-development unteers assistinworkshops, culturalactivities centre forintellectually adults.Vol- disabled Lokmanya Colony, 411038) ( graduates toassist withtheresearch. able foragriculture, andscience engineering internships lastingtwotosix months are avail- Phaltan-LonandRd,Tambmal,.virtualave.net/; Phaltan) Institute Research nearPhaltan, the Based MAHARASHTRA Rock GardeninChandigarh. of themosaics theunusualNekChand serves WD78LA,UK) dlett, Herts, ( can assisttheworkof the Rd,Khajuraho) 274237; [email protected]; Main shops runbyNGO minimum). tions (twoweeks motion, research andinternet communica- There are opportunitiesinhealthcare, pro- to thevictimsof theBhopal chemical disaster. where the volunteers shouldheadtoBhopal,Serious MADHYA PRADESH of onemonthispreferred. surgery onBBGangulyRd,butaminimum Qualified vets canvolunteerattheveterinary andcampaignsforanimalrights. in Kolkata Street) % ofCrueltytoAnimals the Prevention 1158 % % Volunteers withaninterest inarchitecture In Khajuraho, volunteers canhelpatwork- Run byvolunteer vets, the Located 30kmfromPuneis 033-22367738; [email protected]; 276 BB Ganguly 033-22367738; [email protected]; 276BBGanguly 01923-856644; www.nekchand.com;1WatfordRd,Ra- 020-25380792; www.sadhana-village.org; Priyankit, 1 020-25380792; www.sadhana-village.org;Priyankit,

cares forstrayanddomesticanimals (CRY; IETR • Vlnern ••Volunteering DIRECTORY % Sambhavna Trust 022-23063647/51; www.cry.org;189A Anand

( % , which andpre- maintains organises fundraising for 02166-222396; http://nariphaltan Global Village Global Village , aresidential-care Nek ChandFoundation Mp p683; (Map Nimbkar Agricultural Agricultural Nimbkar Calcutta Societyfor Calcutta Sadhana Village (CSPCA; Map (CSPCA; Map p496 ;

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% Child Rights Child Rights ( % 2730914; 07686- has ,

works withMumbai’sstreet children, focus- rather thanmedicaltreatment orprevention. oncare itsethosfocuses However, disabled. destitute, manyof whomare illor mentally ORISSA the project. work fulltimefortheorganisation during willing tocommitatleastthree months and by communalviolence. Volunteers shouldbe in Ahmedabad(Gujarat)forchildren affected adolescent street children. Italsohasaproject School,FarooqueMunicipal UmarbhouyLane) preferably speakHindi. (six months minimum).Volunteers should and interests inMumbai andaroundIndia placementsmatchedvolunteer toyourskills by localpeople. Thefoundationcanarrange projects sustainable is onestablishing run able members of thecommunity.Thefocus oriented organisations workingwithvulner- House, 6KDubashMarg) ( in teaching andsportsactivities. There are long-andshort-term opportunities ing onrehabilitation intomainstream society. DrEMosesRd,Mahalaxmi) VMemorial, George King Niketan, portunities forpeoplefromallbackgrounds. children. There are long-andshort-term op- a dozenprojects inMumbaihelpingdeprived more than300projects India-wide,including ling are welcomed. sports, arts andcraftsvocational counsel- therapy, speech specialeducation, advocacy. Volunteers fromthefieldsof physio- and training,counselling management, staff a centre providing specialeducation, home .org; DishaPath, Jaipur302019) NirmanNagar-C, tion cial Education,VocationalTrainingand Rehabilita- other neuralconditions, man Path, C-Scheme,Jaipur) based The Jaipur branch of MotherTeresa’s Kolkata- RAJASTHAN p652). (see especiallytheolivecies inOrissa, ridleyturtle to helpwithitsworksave endangered spe- Nagar,Bhubaneswar751007) Sahid The % Saathi The charitable The Assisting peoplewithcerebral palsyand

022-22880129; www.concernindia.org; 3rdfl,Ador Wildlife Societyof Orissa ( % Missionaries ofCharity Missionaries Vatsalya Foundation

0141-2393319/2391690; www.dishafoundation ( % 022-23520053; www.saathi.org; Agripada 022-23520053; www.saathi.org;Agripada supportsdevelopment- Concern IndiaFoundation provides arefuge forthe (

Disha – Centre forSpe- Disha –Centre ( ( % acceptsvolunteers %

% 022-24962115; Anand 0141-2365804; Vardh- lonelyplanet.com 0671-2311513; A320, workswith operates

DIRECTORY 020- . (HELP; (HELP; 1159

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Unite for ( . Place- 044-25956928; has regular has regular %

( 044-25567228; www , which is part of is part of , which % ( MuyalTrust Liang Rejuvenate India Movement 04112-268393; www.charityfocus.org Rural Institute for Development provides services provides to people % Missionaries of Charity (RIDE; 044-22235133; www.india-movement.org; A1 044-22235133; www.india-movement.org; A1 Freedom Foundation % (www.uniteforsight.org/intl_volunteer)

012-2726 3055; www.help-education.org; Mansard House, In Chennai, the The international eye-care charity charity eye-care The international The NGO Teaching placements in Sikkim can also be placements Teaching The transition schools. Volunteers can contribute can contribute Volunteers transition schools. and support roles. administrative in teaching, labour. on child for more p1052 See (RIM; Monisha Sriram Flats, 9 Kulothungan Cross St, Chittlapakkam, Kolathur, Chennai) living with HIV/AIDs, including treatment at its clinic and work-skills training. It also campaigns for HIV education and preven- opportunities for counsellors, are tion. There and carers. teachers trainers, Sight month-long openings for volunteer assistants, and optical-health profes- nurses teachers, clinics sionals to help at its partner eye-care in Chennai and around India; see the website for details. Education Nagar, Little Kanchipuram)/India/host/RIDE; 46 Periyar to in Kanchipuram with around 200 villages and into labour from forced children remove two months in Sikkim), and volunteers cover cover in Sikkim), and volunteers two months a contribution all their expenses and make 20 over speakers English to the programme. preferred. old are years through the arranged W11 2EG UK) London 7229 4774; 53 Blenheim Crescent, NADU TAMIL opportuni- volunteer are Chennai, there In ties at the 79 Main Rd, Royapuram, Chennai) opera- Kolkata-based care Mother Teresa’s has been tion. However, the organisation agenda. criticised for its religious 15 United Colony, Red.thefreedomfoundation.org; Hills Rd, one month) are available in social welfare, social welfare, in available are one month) The other projects. and health care teaching, Dairy inside Urmul is located Urmul Trust bus terminal). (next to the SIKKIM at schools Placements for volunteer teachers Pedma including the Denjong in Sikkim – – can be ar- near Pelling Choling Academy through charity British-based the ranged Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme % Whitstable, Kent30 Kingsdown CT5 Park, 2DF, UK) (exactly two months ments last a minimum of

0141- Animal % ( provides vo- provides works to address works to address SOS Children’s Village SOS Children’s Village is involved in health is involved Help in Suffering SufferingHelp in 0151-2523093; Urmul Bhawan, 9829011124; www.ladli.org; 74 9829011124; www.ladli.org; 74 provides primary health primary health provides % (

0294-2450960; www.sevamandir.org; 0294-2450960; www.sevamandir.org; % ( DIRECTORY •• Volunteering Marwar Medical & Relief Society % (

accepts trained veterinary staff accepts trained veterinary , located opposite Petal Factory, Factory, Petal opposite , located Ladli is partly funded by the World So- is partly funded (%0294-3111435; www.animalaidsociety.org;

Urmul Trust Urmul Trust 0291-2545210, 0291-2571620; www.mandore.com; www.mandore.com; 0291-2545210, 0291-2571620; 0141-2280262; www.sos-childrensvillages.org; Jhot- www.sos-childrensvillages.org; 0141-2280262; The Also in Udaipur, the animal hospital Seva Mandir Jaipur’s Jaipur’s The NGO Also in Jaipur is the Also in Jaipur The animal hospitalThe animal % % women. Volunteer placements (minimum placements (minimum women. Volunteer care and education to around 500 villages and education to around 500 villages care in Rajasthan, as well as promoting rights for Hawala village. village. Hawala Ganganagar Rd, Bikaner) rescue and treat injured stray animals and stray animals and injured and treat rescue clinic in Chota dogs at its veterinary street Udaipur 313004) to help volunteers and other animal-loving Aid Society c/o Pratap Singh Rathore, 27C Neemach Mata Scheme, Dewali, apply through the website. apply through the website. work for a minimum period of two weeks; work for a minimum period of promotion, literacy programmes and develop- promotion, literacy Development interns ing natural resources. can observe in development and participate a year. a year. Udaipur 313004) Old Fatehpura, care, teach English and take children’s ac- children’s English and take teach care, to tivities, and placements last two months cational training for abused, and orphaned work in child Volunteers children. destitute Govindpuri, Rakdi, Sodala, Jaipur 302006) district. Guests at its guesthouse in Mandore district. Guests at its guesthouse in Mandore on short- accepted are and other volunteers in development and education projects term local villages. c/o Mandore Guest House, Mandore) cal services and education in the Jodhpur ( widows as carers for orphaned, destitute and destitute for orphaned, widows as carers abandoned children. than 30 programmes across India, employ- than 30 programmes across and wives abandoned ing unmarried women, tion SOS Kinderdorf International runs more runs more tion SOS Kinderdorf International young adults. Volunteers teach English and teach young adults. Volunteers for a with their homework help the children organisa- The parent one year. minimum of wara Rd, Jaipur) and children for and educates cares which ( and welcomes qualified voluntary vets (three-/ (three-/ qualified voluntaryand welcomes vets in first commitments). Apply six-/12-month writing. 2760803; [email protected]; Maharani Farm, Durgapura, Maharani [email protected]; 2760803; Farm, Jaipur 302018) lonelyplanet.com ciety for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) Animals (WSPA) of Protection ciety for the drug-addiction problems and provide medi- provide and drug-addiction problems DIRECTORY Elevation contacted through the contacted through Mohan’s Adventure Tours, Railway Rd,Haridwar) Mohan’s Adventure Tours,Railway in West Bengal, including volunteer projects including volunteer in WestBengal, andhealthschemescommunity development .net.in; 52Tentultala Hooghly712136) Ln,Mankundu, experience ispreferred. geriatric- andchild-care workers. Previous primary-school and teachers, medicalstaff, openings forvolunteer nursery- andearly- % health care andpreschool teaching. months) forpeoplewith backgroundsin opportunities(minimumsix has volunteer [email protected]; 42LadenLaRd,Darjeeling) In Darjeeling, WEST BENGAL the Nature Interpretation ( Centre p471 ). projects JuneandOctober. between Contact velopment Committee runsconservation theEcoDe- ers innorthernUttarakhand, projects. cooking, teaching, fieldworkandbuilding family foronetosixmonths, helpingoutwith Volunteers livein Uttarakhand. withalocal inKandais based village, nearBageshwar 263631) Bageshwar,Uttarakhand Village,POKanda, tion orcontact Uttarakhand, Chairman, POPulna(Bhyundai), Chamoli, information, writeChauhan,EDC toPratap projects inRajaji NationalPark. Formore rescue andGujjar tribalvillage development Corporation velopment Volunteers canhelpthe UTTARAKHAND tion see p432 . p426 Bhairavi,Varanasi); 17Tripura for LifeSociety at localschools. Onesuch placeisthe Varanasi offers opportunitiesforvolunteering UTTAR PRADESH is anasset. opportunities inKarnataka. Spoken Hindi in 14villages inTamil Nadu.There are also projectsdevelopment runbypartnerNGOs year placementsforskilledvolunteers on Chennai 600064) 1160 The grass-roots Human Wave The In Ghangariavillage intheValley of Flow- 0354-52346; 65 Gandhi Rd,Darjeeling) 0354-52346; 65Gandhi ( % IETR • WmnTaelr ••WomenTravellers DIRECTORY Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre Self-Help Tibetan Refugee

01334-9051335; [email protected]; c/o (ROSE; canarrange three toone week

(www.learn-for-life.org) %

( Hayden Hall % 05963-241081; www.rosekanda.info; 05963-241081; www.rosekanda.info; 033-26852823; [email protected] Rural Organisation forSocial Rural Organisation (www.uafdc.org)

Brown Bread Bakery Bakery Brown Bread . Formore informa- Mahesh Yogi Organisa- Yogi Mahesh Uttaranchal Forest De- Forest Uttaranchal

Mp p532; (Map hasoccasional which canbe with animal

% . Mp p531; (Map

2253228; runs Learn (Map (Map

to escapethehassleof theplains. areas makingthese awelcomebolthole dakh, exists inBuddhistregions like SikkimandLa- tourist townselsewhere. Theproblembarely urban centres of NorthIndiaandprominent areis notuncommon.Mostcases reported in ments andinvasionof groping privacy,though assment inIndia–predominantly lewdcom- many female travellers har- experiencesexual objects. women assexual film industrytraditionallyportrayingWestern helpedbytheHollywood situation hasn’tbeen the perceptionof foreign womeninIndia. The of foreign womenhave on hadarippleeffect turally inappropriate behaviour of aminority theskimpyclothingandcul- attitudes tosex, modern Indiansociety.Combinedwithlocal erotic art,female ishiddenawayin sexuality the roleof women.Despite alonghistoryof tive country,especiallysowhenitcomesto in thebigcities,Indiaremains aconserva- thingsareAlthough changing, particularly WOMEN TRAVELLERS directly foropportunities. theorganisationaccommodation. Contact 15 daysandyoupayasmallfee forfoodand Theminimumperiodforvolunteerskata. is in theSunderbansandyouthprojects inKol- side of cautionifyou are unsure. Thewarn- own judgement andinstincts, anderron the your –use ‘right’ ifyoudoeverything even harassment, fromsexual shielding yourself neither individualactuallylives inIndia. descent mayget disapproving stares, if even mixedever, couplesof Indianandnon-Indian partner are lesslikely How- to beharassed. (see p1137 ). Womentravelling withamale as theHolifestival canbenotoriousforthis such specialevents being followed.Exuberant bumpedintoonthestreet‘accidentally’ and include provocative gestures, getting jeering, canhelp. glasses as thismaybeconsidered acome-on;dark best torefrain fromreturning malestares, abovebe thick-skinnedandtrytorise it.It’s is somethingyou’llhave to. toget used Just women behave. stared constantly at Getting may have amisguidedopinionof howforeign code isunderscrutiny,andthatlocalmen should beaware thatyourbehaviour and dress One unfortunate consequence ofOne unfortunate consequence thisisthat Other harassmentwomenhave encountered While there’s tobeparanoid,you noneed Ultimately, there are nosure-fire waysof lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 1161 – the – the namaste When interacting with men on a day-to- When interacting more feel filmgoers will probably Female Avoid taking at night taxis alone late (when Avoid Keep conversations with unknown men with unknown conversations Keep the uncomfortable that feeling If you still get For gynaecological health issues, seek health issues, For gynaecological out a doctor. female many roads are deserted) and never agree to deserted) never and agree many roads are in the than one man (the driver) more having claims that this is ‘just his brother’ car – ignore advised Women are protection’. or ‘for more jewellery as against wearing expensive-looking for muggers. a target them it can make avoid walking alone at night, especially in night, walking alone at especially in avoid areas. isolated Taxis & Public Transport that solo women prear- Officials recommend if an airport pick-up from their hotel range at night. late to arrive their flight is scheduled taxi and a prepaid If that’s not possible, catch writing driver) the of (in front a point of make name, and driver’s down the car registration The the airport police. and giving it to one of the shocking after was overhauled system a prepaid-taxi tourist by a female murder of but most solo women in Delhi in 2004, driver to prearrange (especially to Delhi) still prefer be- an airport pick-up or wait until daybreak the airport. leaving fore a man is encroaching on your space, he prob- on your a man is encroaching usually away is to keep ably is. A firm request enough,your voice is loud enough especially if Alterna- passers-by. of to draw the attention to (not responding the silent treatment tively, effective. questions at all) can be remarkably not to the local practice of day basis, adhere sayshaking hands. Instead, and – Hindu greeting traditional, respectful bow slightly with the hands brought together or head level. at the chest po- of the chances comfortable (and decrease harassment) by going to the cinema tential with a companion. Lastly, it’s wise to arrive course, always of dark and, in towns before short – getting involved in inane conversa- in inane involved short – getting as a sign can be misinterpreted tions with men as ‘Do you such Questions sexual interest. of very looking or ‘You are a boyfriend?’ have that the conversation indicators beautiful’ are Some women tangent. may be taking a steamy a pseudo in advance by wearing wed- prepare early on in the ding ring, or by announcing married or engaged that they are conversation (even if it isn’t true). sal- (small choli DIRECTORY •• Women Travellers or long shorts and a T-shirt and a T-shirt or long shorts is regarded as respectable attire attire as respectable is regarded (long scarf) handy worn with it is very

Indian dress, when done properly, makes when done properly, makes Indian dress, In some areas, such as Goa and Mumbai, such In some areas,

Going into public wearing a Sanitary pads and tampons are available available Sanitarypads and tampons are session. If you feel uneasy at any time, leave. uneasy at any time, leave. If you feel session. you are, try to check the reputation of any of the reputation try to check you are, going to a solo or therapist before teacher Women have reported being molested by by being molested reported have Women and other therapists, especially in masseurs where and McLeod No matter Ganj. Varanasi Staying Safe Staying Safe ences proffered by fellow women travellers on women travellers by fellow ences proffered at www.journeywoman.com. the India page tight blouse worn under a sari) or a sari pet- mistake women many foreign ticoat (which strutting around half for a skirt) is rather like experi- – don’t do it. Read personal dressed dupatta head your that requires if you visit a shrine to be covered. war kameez for your respect and wearing it will reflect is also The flowing outfit etiquette. local dress surprisingly cool in the hot weather, and the cut down the harassment and stares. The cut down the harassment and stares. a positive impression and can dramatically impression a positive turning from the beach, use turning from the beach, a sarong to avoid on the way back to your hotel. stares whenever view. When re- swimming in public but away from these areas, take your cues from take but away from these areas, local women. Most Indian women wear saris, salwar kameez, there’s generally a more liberal attitude to- liberal a more generally there’s Beachwearwards dress. on the is normally fine for nightclubs, OK and party clothes are beach is the way to go. is the way to go. see-through Baggy clothing. or tight-fitting your body of clothing that hides the contours tops, shorts, miniskirts (ankle-length skirts miniskirts (ankle-length tops, shorts, other skimpy, and any recommended) are ing culturally inappropriate clothing can clothing can ing culturally inappropriate sleeveless help enormously. Steer clear of matter of adjusting your behaviour to match to match your behaviour adjusting of matter Avoid- social norms in India. the prevailing Clothing Clothing a Warding off sexual harassment is often tourist centres. Carry stocks for additional tourist centres. track. the beaten off travel from pharmacies in all large cities and most cities in all large from pharmacies thousands of female travellers rise above these rise above travellers female thousands of every year. challenges ings in this sectionings in may seem a little daunting, you and out to bother not men are but most lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY you might expect,andlocalwagesyou might rarely paid Obtaining work inIndiaisharderthan WORK into leaving youalone. attract publicattention andshame theguy to tell him toshove to –loudlyenough off a newspot.You’re alsowithinyourrights fails,find gage youand,ifallelse inbetween turn anyerrantlimbs,putsomeitem of lug- frompotential(and distance gropers). most berth,which willgive youmore privacy in athree-tier carriage, trytoget theupper- overnight trips.Ifyou’re travelling overnight more expensive ontrains,especiallyfor classes have reported less hasslebyoptingforthe are specialladies-onlycarriages. Solowomen andontrainstherejump withoutconsequence, some advantages. Womenare abletoqueue- 1162 On trains and buses, beingawomanhas On trainsandbuses, On public transport, don’t hesitate tore-On publictransport,don’thesitate IETR • Wr ••Work DIRECTORY for theday. hotels inChennai( p1036 ) lookingforextras bai (see p778 ). Filmcrews alsovisittraveller portunities forworkingasanextrainMum- p1177). (see guides withthebigoverland tourcompanies to qualify),andopportunitiesfordrivers and inEurope tocompletemally need seasons reps in GoaandKerala younor- (though tional package holidaycompaniesfortour employment. needed thismaydepriveHowever, localsof much ing adventure sportsandholistictherapies. portunities existatsometouristresorts teach- travel. notstrictlylegal,casualop- Although Indian employerandfindingajob before you company requires sponsorship visa froman ness tripsare easy,butworkingforanIndian make thiscosteffective fortravellers. Busi- If you’re a Bollywood fanthere maybeop- There maybeopportunitieswithinterna- lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 1163 (www.air

Jet Airways also offers also offers (www.airsahara Air India Air Sahara and 033-25118787; www.calcuttaairport.com) (www.indian-airlines.nic.in)

% (code AC; www.aircanada.com) Hub: (code AC; www.aircanada.com) 022-26829000; www.mumbaiairport.com) (code AF; www.airfrance.com) Hub: Charles and the state-owned domestic carrier and the state-owned (Bombay; BOM; Chhatrapati Shivaji International (code SU; www.aeroflot.org) Hub: Sheremetyevo (Madras; Anna International Airport; MAA; (Calcutta; CCU; Netaji Subhas Chandra Basu Interna- (Calcutta; CCU; % (DEL; Indira Gandhi International Airport; offer flights to Colombo, Kathmandu and flights to Colombo, Kathmandu offer 044-22560551; www.chennaiairport.com) 011-25652011; www.delhiairport.com) Other airlines flying to and from India Other airlines flying to and from India

de Gaulle, Paris. % (websites have contact details): have (websites Aeroflot International Airport, . Air Canada Air France Mumbai Airport; carrier is India’s national india.com) Indian Airlines (www.jetairways.com) .net) started longhaul has recently Jet the Maldives. flights to London, Bangkok, For details about India’s do- and Singapore. . p1169 mestic airlines, see There are restrictions on entry for some na- on entry restrictions are There . p1154 tionalities – see the Visa section, AIR Airports & Airlines for international India has four main gateways flights international flights below), and (listed also land in Bengaluru Guwahati (Bangalore), and Amritsar details, – for see www.indian airports.com. India is a big county so it makes sense airport to the area to fly into the nearest you want to visit. Chennai Delhi Kolkata Passport Passport visapassport, need India you To enter a valid If ticket. ) and an onward/return p1154 (see stolen, immediately your passport is lost or (see contact representative your country’s your ). It’s wise of photocopies to keep p1134 and the identity and visa pages airline ticket emergency. casefrom your passport in of % Vancouver Airport.Vancouver tional Airport; flights to 20 countries in Asia and the Mid- flights to 20 countries in Asia dle East (though record). it has a poor safety airlines private reliable The more

THINGS CHANGE… THINGS CHANGE… is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and the you understand how a fare sure of ticket you may buy) works and be aware for international the security requirements in details given The Shop carefully. travel. as point- should be regarded this chapter for your own not a substitute ers and are research. up-to-date careful,

Getting There & Away There Getting 1163 Entering the Country the Entering 1163 Air 1167 Land 1169 Sea Around Getting 1169 Air 1171 Bicycle 1163 1171 Boat 1171 Bus Car Hitching1173 Local Transport 1175 Motorcycle 1169 Jeeps Share 1177 Tours Train 1178 1173 1172 1177

GETTING THERE &

straightforward, standard with immigration ). p1131 ( and customs procedures ENTERING THE COUNTRY ENTERING THE COUNTRY land is relatively India by air or Entering

The following sections contain information on The following Flights, tours transport to and around India. online at can also be booked and rail tickets www.lonelyplanet.com.travel_services. CONTENTS

Transport AWAY TRANSPORT International Airport, Delhi. International Airport, .com) Hub:HongKongInternationalAirport. International Airport. Rome. International Airport, Hub: Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi. InternationalAirport, Hub: JomoKenyatta Hub: Heathrow Airport, London. Hub: HeathrowAirport, Hub: Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam. Hub: SchipholAirport, Dhaka. .com) Hub:ZiaInternationalAirport, KLM –RoyalDutchAirlines Airways Kenya Japan Airlines International Airport. Gulf Air Finnair Emirates El AlIsraelAirlines Druk Air Pacific Airways Cathay Airways British Biman BangladeshAirlines Airlines Austrian InternationalAirport. Worth Dallas/Fort Airlines American Alitalia Air India 1164 Airport. International Airport. Airport. TelGurion, Aviv. Airport. author travel. Formore informationcheckout our website: lonelyplanet.com. thecarbonoffset schemerun by climatecare.org.support LonelyPlanet offsets allofitsstaff and in India.projects travel schemesandtree thatoffset planting projects theeffects ofglobalwarming –including level ofgreenhouse gasesthey are responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org and otherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowtravellers tooffset the Carbon Offset Schemes consumptionoverhousehold’s gasandelectricity awholeyear. flight betweenEurope andtheUSwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate change asanaverage because theyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheatmosphere. areturn Twopeopletaking but planesare farand awaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseoffuel theyconsume,but Every formofmotorisedtravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change on globalwarming. global benefit,butwebelieve thateveryone hasaresponsibility tolimittheirpersonal impact of thefastest-growing contributorstothe problem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asa Climate changeisaseriousthreat totheecosystems thathumansrely on,andairtravel isone CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners inthetravel industry,Lonely Planet,together withRoughGuidesandotherconcerned partners (codeAZ;www.alitalia.com) Hub:Fiumicino (code GF; www.gulfairco.com) Hub: Bahrain (codeGF;www.gulfairco.com) Hub:Bahrain ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (code AY; www.finnair.com) Hub:Helsinki-Vantaa (codeKB;www.drukair.com.bt) Hub:Paro (codeEK;www.emirates.com) Hub:Dubai (code AI; www.airindia.com) Hub: Indira Gandhi Hub:IndiraGandhi (code AI;www.airindia.com) (code JL; www.jal.com) Hub: Narita Hub:Narita (codeJL;www.jal.com) (code KQ; www.kenya-airways.com) (codeKQ;www.kenya-airways.com) (code BA; www.british-airways.com) (codeBA;www.british-airways.com) (codeOS;www.aua.com) Hub:Vienna (code AA;www.aa.com) Hub: (codeLY; www.elal.co.il) Hub:Ben (codeCX;www.cathaypacific (codeKL;www.klm.com) (codeBG;www.bimanair ₂ (themaincauseofhuman-inducedclimate change) Doha International Airport. Doha InternationalAirport. Tambo Johannesburg. InternationalAirport, .com) Hub: Zurich InternationalAirport. .com) Hub:Zurich Hub: Changi Airport, Singapore. Hub: ChangiAirport, InternationalAirport. Frankfurt Hub: KualaLumpur InternationalAirport. .com) Hub:BangkokInternationalAirport. changed. Mostairlinesaskyoutocheck in idea tocallcheck timeshaven’t thatflight of international tickets, it’sstillagood though Most airlinesnolonger require reconfirmation Departing India AirwaysInternational Thai Airlines Swiss International Colombo. InternationalAirport, Bandaranaike Airlines Lankan Sri Airlines South African Airlines Singapore Royal NepalAirlinesCorporation Qatar Airways Sydney. SmithAirport, Kingsford Qantas Airways Airlines International Pakistan Airlines Malaysia Airlines Lufthansa Kuwait Airways .royalnepal.com) Hub: Kathmandu Airport. .royalnepal.com) Hub:Kathmandu . InternationalAirport, .com.pk) Hub:Jinnah Hub: KuwaitInternationalAirport. (code QR;www.qatarairways.com) Hub: (codeQF;www.qantas.com.au) Hub: (code KU; www.kuwait-airways.com) (codeKU;www.kuwait-airways.com) (codeMH;www.malaysiaairlines.com) (codeSQ;www.singaporeair.com) (code LH; www.lufthansa.com) Hub: (codeLH;www.lufthansa.com) (code UL; www.srilankan.aero) Hub: (codeUL;www.srilankan.aero) (code SA;www.flysaa.com) Hub: (codeTG;www.thaiair (codeLX;www.swiss (codePK;www.piac (codeRA;www lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT Kuala Kuala 1165 Singapore Singapore 03-53912922; % Tokyo Alternatively, book directly book directly Alternatively, 03-21489800; www.statravel.co.my; www.statravel.co.my; 03-21489800; % 0852-27361618; www.hkst.com.hk/statravel; www.hkst.com.hk/statravel; 0852-27361618; 67377188; www.statravel.com.sg; 67377188; www.statravel.com.sg; SINGAPORE, MALAYSIA, HONG KONG & HONG KONG & SINGAPORE, MALAYSIA, CHINA air connections between extensive are There and Delhi, Mumbai, Ben-Southeast Asia galuru, Chennai or Kolkata. Return flights Royal Nepal Airlines and half a dozen In- Airlines and half a dozen Royal Nepal flights from Kathmandu provide dian carriers to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bengaluru and include: fares One-way/return Varanasi. Delhi (from US$150/300); Mumbai (from US$230/450); Kolkata (from US$120/240); (from US$200/400) and Bengaluru Varanasi (from US$230/450). You’ll need an onward from on a one-way ticket India to enter ticket Nepal. PAKISTAN often are Flights between India and Pakistan between the two suspended when relations return research, At the time of countries sour. to Delhi and cost US$300 from Karachi fares US$200 to Mumbai. Flights from to cheaper. marginally Delhi are Lumpur Flights to Delhi, India. and between Japan Chennai, Kolkata Mumbai start and from US$540. MALDIVES is a condition of or onward ticket A return to Malé fares Excursion to the Maldives. travel (Trivandrum) on from Thiruvananthapuram Indian Airlines start at US$200 return. (BURMA) MYANMAR (Rangoon) and Return flights between Yangon Kolkata cost around US$350. Alternatively, you can connect through Bangkok, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur for around US$500. NEPAL % % www.statravel.co.jp). with the airlines. BANGLADESH air hub for Bangladesh.Dhaka is the Biman flights Indian Airlines offer and Bangladesh between Kolkata Dhaka and (from US$200 return). or Delhi (from US$500 return) JAPAN Tokyo/Narita is the main hub for flights

have Hong Kong STA Travel STA

(www.rennies (www.flightcentre.com) (www.statravel.co.za)

Rennies Travel GETTING •• Air THERE & AWAY STA Travel STA (www.tiss.com) 02-2360262; www.statravel.co.th; 02-2360262; www.statravel.co.th; (www.travelocity.com) (www.statravel.com) (www.ebookers.com) and % (www.expedia.com)

There are international ticket agents in in agents ticket international are There The fares we’ve given in this section repre- given we’ve The fares Most Indian airports have free luggage trol- luggage free airports have Most Indian Bangkok ( There are international travel agencies in in agencies travel international are There including capital Asia, cities across most African capitals. travel.com) Asia from Cape Town or Johannesburg. from Cape Town or Johannesburg. Africa and East Africa. Return fares to Mum- Africa and East Return fares Africa. bai include US$600 from Nairobi and US$500 There are direct flights to India from South direct are There Travelocity Africa Flights.com Travel STA Ebookers Expedia Flight Centre International fares on airline websites are sometimes just are on airline websites fares Alterna- through as going an agent. as cheap online try the following international tively, agencies: ticket agencies appear in the travel pages of major major of pages appear in the travel agencies that magazines. Note and listings newspapers schedules. Advertisements for discount travel for discount travel Advertisements schedules. sent average starting fares available at the time available starting fares sent average or surf the agent Contact a travel research. of and flight fares up-to-the-minute web to get and the Rs 200 passenger service is in- fee almost all tickets. cluded in the price of gust). The departure tax of Rs 500 (Rs 150 for Rs 500 (Rs tax of gust). The departure countries) Asian most South and Southeast to visit is generally the monsoon (June the monsoon to visit is generally to Au- travel agents can book international flights, can book international agents travel the same normally if you book are but fares time with the airlines. The cheapest directly national tickets inside India. Only designated Only designated inside India. national tickets An onward or return air ticket is a condition is a condition air ticket An onward or return buy inter- visitors the tourist visa, so few of check for all cabin bags, including cameras. for all cabin bags, including cameras. check Tickets ing in India, hold bags must be passeding in India, through hall and in the departures the X-ray machine the security for required tagsbaggage are leys, but porters will eagerly offer to lug your offer will eagerly leys, but porters For flights originat- fee. load for a negotiable planning your trip to the airport. planning your three hours before international departures – departures international before hours three traffic the Indian to factor in when remember lonelyplanet.com offices throughout southern Africa. throughoutoffices southern Africa. TRANSPORT Minute sites fornationsacross Europe. 1166 Switzerland .statravel.no; 74303292; www.statravel.de; Finland www.statravel.at; ticket agencies. try theagencies beloworvisitthebig online Fordiscountfares,stop intheMiddleEast. either directlyEuropean capitals, orwitha frommost ChennaiorBengaluru Kolkata, There are connectionstoDelhi,Mumbai, Continental Europe agency, ortrythebigonlineagents. .travelcuts.com) around C$1500. couver at orTorontotoDelhiMumbaistart goviaAsia.coast, flights Returnfares fromVan- go viaEurope;fromVancouver andthewest mostflights From eastern andcentralCanada, Canada ings, trythewebsite www.travel.com.au. Australia.offices throughout Foronlinebook- Flight Centre and A$1700,dependingontheseason. andChennairangebai, Kolkata fromA$1200 Southeast Asia. Returnfares toDelhi,Mum- withastopin Chennai, MumbaiorBengaluru via Darwin,oryoucanflytoDelhi,Kolkata, fromSydneytoMumbai hasaflight Qantas Australia (US$700). (US$400)andChennai(US$500), Kolkata include:DelhiorMumbaifrom Bangkok from SoutheastAsia toIndia. Returnfares isthemostpopulardepartureBangkok point THAILAND vananthapuram (US$200). (US$270)andThiru- (US$450), Bengaluru turn fares includeMumbai(US$390),Delhi riers provide connectionsfromColombo. Re- Indiancar- Airlinesandseveral Sri Lankan SRI LANKA (from aroundUS$550). andShanghai toDelhiorMumbai eral airlineshave recently from flights started fromUS$550.Sev- Lumpur andIndiastart Singapore,between HongKongorKuala STA Travel %

ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (www.last-minute.co.uk) % 09-68127717; www.statravel.fi; Sweden ( is Canada’s nationalstudenttravel isCanada’s

0900-450402; www.statravel.ch) % ( % Denmark 133133; www.flightcentre.com.au) STA Travel 134782; www.statravel.com.au) % Travel Cuts Travel 0771-474850; www.statravel.se; % Norway 33-141501; www.statravel.dk ( Austria have regional web- (

% % 800-667-2887; www % 815-59905; www Germany 01-401486000; and

% and have have Last 069-

; ocity .goholidays.co.nz. wide branches. Foronlinebookingstrywww .nouvelles-frontieres.fr inFrench) .com inFrench) Discount airtravel isbigbusinessinLon- UK &Ireland ( ( atNZ$1200.Both to Delhistart Southeast Asia. Returntickets fromAuckland govia IndiaandNewZealand between Flights New Zealand Barcelo Viajes SPAIN Airfair NETHERLANDS Viaggi CTS ITALY Just Travel GERMANY Voyageurs duMonde OTU Voyages Frontières Nouvelles Anyway FRANCE CheapTickets Travel Express American best deal– Consult travel agents andscan thewebfor and US$1300ormore fromtheWestCoast. bank onUS$1100ormore Coast fromtheEast cisco, LosAngeles andNewYork.Fares vary– or ‘consolidators’, particularly in SanFran- America hasplentyof discounttravel agents, USA Bag Travel Trailfinders STA Travel Flight Centre Ebookers clude thefollowing: Good placestofindcompetitive quotes in- rangeor Amritsar fromUK£350toUK£600. Bengaluru Delhi, Mumbai,Chennai,Kolkata, fromLondonorManchesterdon. Flights to .itn.net) % % Other goodplaces tobook:

0800-243544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) 0800-474400; www.statravel.co.nz) (www.travelocity.com)

( % ( % ( ( %

( ( ( 0900-7717717; www.airfair.nl inDutch) % ( % % % ( 0892-302301; www.anyway.frinFrench) % (www.cheaptickets.com) ( Expedia

% ( % 0871-2335000; www.ebookers.com) % 0870-2300040; www.statravel.co.uk) 06-44-111-66; www.cts.it) 0800-0825000; www.travelbag.co.uk) 089-7473330; www.justtravel.de) 0845-0585858; www.trailfinders.com) 0870-4990040; www.flightcentre.co.uk) 01-55-823232; www.otu.frinFrench) 902-200-400; www.barceloviajes.com) ( (www.expedia.com) ( % % are goodsites. ( 0825-000747; www % 0892-235656; www.vdm 800-297-2977; www lonelyplanet.com have country- and Flight Centre and STA Travel Travel

TRANSPORT . 1167 . RCPL Trav-

(www.tourism.gov.bt) 24400665; [email protected]; www % (see the boxed text, p615 ). p615 text, (see the boxed

(Map pp488-9 ; Bhutan visas for non-Indians require a a Bhutan visas for non-Indians require Heading from Bangladesh to India, you Heading

Siliguri/Kolkata to Phuentsholing Siliguri/Kolkata to Phuentsholing Buses from Kolkata and Siliguri to Phuent- run by Bhutan Services. Transport sholing are Agartala to Dhaka Dhaka to Agartala The Bangladesh border is 4km from Agartala and several daily trains run on to Dhaka from Akhaura the border. on the Bangladesh side of details. for more p612 text See the boxed BHUTAN is the main entry and exit pointPhuentsholing you now need a full between India and Bhutan; Bhutanese must visa the country, which to enter your tripbe obtained at least 15 days before the under listed agent travel from a registered Department of Tourism, Bhutan to US$240 tour (minimum US$200 prepaid Tour and visa can be per day, all-inclusive). through within two days arranged els Siliguri to Chengrabandha/Burimari to Chengrabandha/Burimari Siliguri crossing is acces- This minor northern border Bengal.sible from Siliguri in West You must Norgay from outside Tenzin bus a private take (Rs 40, two central bus station Jalpaiguri to at for the border post there and change hours) details. for more p528 SeeChengrabandha. Shillong to Sylhet a handy backThis little-used crossing offers from northeast India to Bangladesh.route Share jeeps run every morning from Bara Bazaar in you at Dawki, where to the border post Shillong a taxi to the bus stationcan walk or catch in buses to Sylhet – see has regular which Tamabil, information. for more p612 text the boxed ladeshi missions in Kolkata (see p1135 ) and p1135 in Kolkata missions ladeshi (see Agartala the exit tax at a designated must pre-pay the Sonali Bank, may be some which of branch distancefrom the border post. Kolkata to Dhaka services daily bus are There from Kolkata to the India–BangladeshDhaka, crossing border information. for more p512 at Benapol – see Plans for a train link between Kolkata and – inquire on for years dragged Dhaka have reports. locally for progress .kingdomofbhutan.info; 5/4 Ballygunge Pl, Kolkata) issues Istanbul Istanbul Bangladesh Bangladesh Carnet de passage en de passage Carnet in two to three working in two to three GETTING •• Land THERE & AWAY or see the ‘London to India’ (www.lowestfare.com) applications 9.30am-11pm Mon-Fri) 800-781-4040; www.sta.com) 011-24121389; EP39 Dr Radakrishnan Marg, h % ( % ( which acts as a temporary waiver of of waiver acts as a temporary which

Directorate of Immigration and Passports 9am-5pm Sun-Thu) 9am-5pm Sun-Thu) (www.orbitz.com)

02-9131891/9134011; Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, Agargaon h Heading from India to Bangladesh, tour- Heading See p1172 and p1175 for more on car and for more p1175 and p1172 See Drivers of cars and motorbikes will need and motorbikes cars of Drivers

If you enter India by bus or train you’ll or train you’ll India by bus If you enter % Visas can also be obtained from the Bang- visas in two working days with two passport vary depending on nationality. photos; fees a Bangladeshi mission. Delhi’s a Bangladeshi mission. embassy Chanakyapuri; ist visas should be obtained in advance from Bangladesh overland with the visa issued on Bangladesh overland arrival at Dhaka airport. days; bring several passport photos. Some problems exiting also reported have travellers ( Rd; This free permit can be obtained permit can be in Dhaka This free at the you enter by air, you require a road permit by air, you require you enter by land. permit) to leave route’ of (or ‘change between Bangladesh and India, all in West and India, all in West between Bangladesh Bengal Exiting or the Northeast States. Bang- tape – if by red is complicated ladesh overland BANGLADESH BANGLADESH the land crossings can use four of Foreigners douane, require- import duty. To find out the latest ments for the paperwork and other important driving information contact your local auto- mobile association. motorcycle travel. surance and an International Driving Per- surance and an International mit. You’ll also need a as no visas are available at the border. The at the border. available as no visas are standard visa Indian tourist allows multiple period. entries within a six-month in- liability papers, registration the vehicle’s standard immigration and customs checks. standard and customs checks. immigration a valid Indian visa in advance You must have section on www.seat61.com/India.htm. to disembark border for at the be required to Kathmandu, from Pakistan and Bangladesh. For more on and Bangladesh. For more from Pakistan thesePlanet’s consult Lonely routes, Although most visitors fly into India, the over- fly into India, the most visitors Although popular Nepal is extremely from land route India enter travellers of numbers and smaller LAND LAND Border Crossings STA Travel STA Lowestfare.com Orbitz lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT vides access tothelittle-visited western Terai. This intriguing backroute intoNepal pro- Banbassa toMahendranagar for informationon crossingtheborder. theboxedSunauli fromthere. See text p442 ( to Gorakhpur p439 ) andtake alocalbus to 1400, 36hours), oryoucantravel bytrain from Varanasi (Rs172,10hours) orDelhi(Rs and Lumbini.There are toSunauli dailybuses with connectionsontoKathmandu, Pokhara The easiestcrossingforDelhior Varanasi, Sunauli toBhairawa whileyouwait. visas 1 NationalLibraryAve, Alipore; the In Kolkata inonedaywithtwopassportphotos. visas Rd; Barakhamba sion. InDelhi,the mis- (US$80)inadvancefromaNepalese visa asingle-entryorsix-monthmultiple-entry tain twopassportphotos.Alternatively,need ob- ings butpaymentisdueinUSdollars andyou (US$30) are available atallthebordercross- forNepalTwo-month single-entryvisas IndiaandNepal: tween ting, there are five landbordercrossingsbe- news websites are goodplacestostart. land –localnewspapers andinternational rity situationbefore crossing intoNepalby tocheckertheless, itmakes thesecu- sense massively sincetheceasefire in2006.Nev- situationin The security Nepalhasimproved NEPAL totheborder.necting withlocalbuses SiliguriandGuwahati)con- train linebetween from SiliguriviaAlipurduar(onthemain travel fromSiliguri.There’s alsoarailroute theboxedhours). See text p528 on fordetails Tuesday, Thursday andSaturday(Rs300,20 there’sFrom Kolkata, adirect busat7pmon 1168 Banbassa in Uttaranchal toMahendrana- inUttaranchal Banbassa Jamunaha PradeshtoNepalganj inUttar to KakarbhittaPanitanki inWestBengal inBihartoBirganj incentralRaxaul PradeshtoBhairawaSunauli inUttar in gar inwestern Nepal in western Nepal in eastern Nepal Nepal central Nepal Political andweatherconditionspermit- ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING % Nepalconsulate applications 9am-noon Mon-Fri) applications 9am-noonMon-Fri) Nepal embassy h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

( ( % %

033-24561224; 011-23327361; issues issues travellers sticktomore convenient crossings. Jamunaha Pradesh,butmostforeign inUttar Plenty of domestictouristscross into Nepalat toNepalganjJamunaha oncrossingtheborder.details theboxedto Kathmandu. See text p528 for can explore theeastern Terai asyoutravel on andyou othertownsinWestBengal, several runtotheborderfromSiliguriandjeeps andshare Buses and theNortheastStates. Sikkim The handiestcrossingforDarjeeling, Panitanki toKakarbhitta crossing theborder. and theboxed text ( p557 ) forinformationon ( theentryunderRaxaul –see station p557 ) ila Express more tojumponthedaily comfortable fromPatna butit’s to Raxaul andKolkata, connections toKathmandu. run Dailybuses and theeastern plains,andthere are onward This crossingisconvenient Patna forKolkata, Raxaul toBirganj border. boxed text p484 forinformationcrossingthe the hourly untillate (Rs210,10hours). See hi’s leaveyou travel. toBanbassa Del- Dailybuses tochecksensible thepoliticalsituationbefore ing andlandslidesinthemonsoonit’s therouteHowever, isoften blocked byflood- currently onlyopen toIndiantravellers. Srinagar to Pakistan-administered Kashmir is or train.Themuch-celebrated busroute from bybus andRajasthan from Delhi,Amritsar ings are open,there are routes intoPakistan aftermath of Assuming anyattack. thecross- thetwocountries oftenbetween stopsinthe inIndia andtransport to carryoutattacks slip acrosstheporousborderfrom Pakistan regularly thetwocountries.Militants tween depends onthecurrent stateof relations be- Indiaand PakistanCrossing between byland PAKISTAN forthe17kmtriptoborder.a busortaxi you cantake atraintoNanpara, andchange to from theJamunaha borderpost.Alternatively, hours), ashort(Rs 160,seven rickshaw ride run regularly fromLucknowtoRupaidhaBazar are regular toKathmandu. onwardflights Buses NationalParkNepal’s RoyalBardia andthere gateway for Nepalganjisauseful However, Anand Vihar busstand Anand Vihar train from Kolkata’s Howrahtrain trainfromKolkata’s (

% bookings 011-22141611) bookings lonelyplanet.com Mith-

TRANSPORT Thar 1169 Budget airline Budget

train from Jodhpur in Rajasthan train from Jodhpur to the Reconfirmation is normally only required if Reconfirmation is normally only required Check-in for domestic flights is an hour before departure and hold luggage must be X- and hold luggage departure before Every you check-in. rayed and stamped before needs cabin baggage label, a baggage of item your secur- must be stamped as part of which Flights (eg destinations to sensitive ity check. or Ladakh) extra security re- Kashmir have may be completely strictions: cabin baggage lines, Jet Airways and Air Sahara – charge Sahara – charge Airways and Air lines, Jet for Indian citizens and higher US rupee fares (usually payable for foreigners dollar fares the airlines charge in rupees). Most budget same low rupees to everyone. throughseats by telephone, can be booked the web. Fares over or cheaply agents, travel deal a better daily, but you usually get change the the further you book in advance – check for details.airline websites bought was but call a outside India, your ticket a Airlines may issue days ahead to be safe. few at their discretion, for lost tickets replacement discounts For details of rare. are but refunds . p1134 see on airfares, However, schedules are erratic so check locally erratic so check are However, schedules times. in Jodhpur for departure SEA several sea are between routes India and There Indian none leave surrounding islands but has . There p1171 – see territory sovereign servicebeen a passenger ferry talk of between in Sri Lankasouthern India and Colombo but locally to Inquire this has yet to materialise. see has been any progress. if there GETTING AROUND AIR domestic airlines – Indian Air- The big three cost Rs 209 in sleepercost Rs class. However, services 2007 the February following disrupted may be bomb attack. Pakistan Rajasthan to the 4889 wrangling, of 35 years After Express at Munabao/Khokraparandborder crossing in early resumed in Pakistan onto Karachi services2006. Unfortunately, suspended were damage flood becausealmost immediately of monsoon. A lim- to the track during the 2006 a 2007, with service ited in February resumed direction. in each 400 passengers maximum of

applica- h at 6am on 011-23318180 or Pakistan embassy % ( train leaves the Old train leaves in Delhi was issuing in Delhi was 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) h GETTING AROUND •• Air Samjhauta Express Samjhauta 24676004; 2/50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri;24676004; 2/50G The The Lahore Bus Service from Delhi’s leaves You must have a visa to enter Pakistan, a visa Pakistan, enter to have You must % 7am, where passengers disembark passengers for customs 7am, where reboard- before and visa procedures, checks trip to Lahore. Tickets ing for the 30 minute Delhi train station (purchase tickets here) on here) Delhi train station (purchase tickets Wednesday and Sunday at 10.50pm and ar- Attari at at the Indian border crossing of rives piece of hand luggage. hand luggage. piece of sential). The baggage limit is 20kg per person sential). limit is 20kg per person The baggage (Rs 60 per extra kg, maximum 15 kg) plus one riving in Lahore 12 hours later. The fare is The fare riving in Lahore later. 12 hours es- Rs 1250 one-way (advance bookings are Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, ar- Dr Ambedkar Bus Station office tremely crowded and clearing the border for- tremely between two and anywhere malities can take to one or two hours – compared hours five Security independently. if you travel is also a serious concern – the Delhi–Lahore train 2007, was bombed by militants in February killing 67 people. Delhi to Lahore Delhi to Lahore are things simple, there to keep If you prefer bus and train servicesdirect between Delhi and Lahore. However, these services ex- are mony – see the boxed text, p276 . p276 text, mony – see the boxed p275 . Try to coordinate your crossing with coordinate . Try to p275 the border cere- the spectacular closing of also through bus and train services all the way information from Delhi – see For more below. text, on crossing the border, see the boxed to the border and there are regular onward regular are to the border and there are to Lahore.connections from Wagah There near Amritsar, and Wagah, near Lahore. near Amritsar, and Wagah, near Lahore. ) p269 Regular buses run from Amritsar ( The main transit point betweenThe main transit point India and post between is the border Attari, Pakistan Attari to Wagah (Amritsar to Lahore) to Lahore) to Wagah (Amritsar Attari double-entry, two-month tourist visas for visas two-month tourist double-entry, for days, but in around two most nationalities visas stop issuing this office may of at times within India, If you apply political tension. from recommendation of you’ll need a letter well as the usual ap- your home embassy as photos. plication forms and passport ( Mon-Fri)tions 8.30am-11.30am Pakistan mission in your home country. home country. mission in your Pakistan the writing, of At the time and it is usually easiest to obtain is usually easiest and it in the this lonelyplanet.com 23712228; Delhi Gate; TRANSPORT able andtheprivate airlines its record onsafety andreliability isunenvi- As indication, fares arough foraone-hour will bearound after theexpected slumpoccurs. and there isnoguarantee thatalltheairlines time toflyaround India, butfares change daily debt. Untilthebubble bursts, thisisagreat inflated, withmanyairlinesspirallinginto internet. fares around thecountryover forflights the new budget airlines,offering discounted rupee are catching upfast.Thenthere are India’s .jetairways.com) -airlines.nic.in) state-owned carrier surge aroundIndia. The indomesticflights In recently years, there amassive hasbeen Airlines inIndia business. smaller aircraft)ineconomyclass,30kg ing yourself. demand arefund andmake theonward book- iscancelled Ifyourflight prices byairlinestaff. being booked ontootherairlinesatinflated travellerscellations, butseveral have reported Passengers usuallyreceive arefund forcan- there are passengers tocover enough costs. but thisisnotstrictlyenforced. photographyisforbidden plane. Officially, beforeon thetarmac theyare loadedonthe toidentifyyourbags hold. Youmayalsoneed from allelectronicitems andplacedinthe prohibited andbatteries must be removed 1170 In fact, the whole industry is seriously over-In fact,thewholeindustryisseriously The baggage allowanceis20kg(10kgfor Some smallerairlineswillonlytake if off but beaware oftherisks. minor crashes. Wewon’tsaydon’tusethem, major accidentssince2002,andnumerous safetyhas ashocking record, withfour p358 ). However, helicopter travel inIndia (seethe mainpilgrimagesites inKashmir (see in Sikkim p526 ) andfromSrinagarto from SiliguriinWestBengaltoGangtok India,andthere areNortheast alsoflights nic.in) theregional connects capitals of Pawan Hans Helicopters (www.pawanhans. carrieriety ofnames,thestate-subsidised aroundIndia. Operatingunderavar-services Several companiesoffer helicopter shuttle ININDIAHELICOPTER SERVICES ETN RUD • i AROUND••Air GETTING stillhasthelargest network,but and Air Sahara Air Sahara Indian Airlines (www.airshahara.net) Jet Airways Jet

(www.indian (www

expand massivelywith100newplanes. Lanka, Nepal,SoutheastAsiaandtheUK. Lanka, theentire country,plusSri India’s bestairline,serving in advance). (check from theinternationalterminalsofIndianairports operating anumberofdomesticflightsgenerallyleaving Jet, with a similar domestic and international network. withasimilardomesticandinternationalnetwork. Jet, plains, South India and the northeast. plains, SouthIndiaandthenortheast. the Kashmir, an airlineownedbyabeercompany,serving Airlines Kingfisher Airways Jet Jagson Airlines IndiGo Indian Airlines GoAir Air India Air Deccan and bookingoffices. airline websites have of details routes, fares across India–theregional chapters andthe destinations airlines listed belowwere serving routes andcarriers. Atthetimeof writing, the agents andscanningthewebforlatest tolocaltravelmonth, soit’sworthtalking carrier toRs1000withabudget airline. range flight fromUS$150onanestablished book. Again, Lakshadweep is off-limits. isoff-limits. book. Again, Lakshadweep you must specifyoneorthe otherwhenyou is validforNorth IndiaorSouthIndia,and travel. for oneweek’s sector Thepass per flight Wonder’ fare, which costsUS$300plus US$21 twice. There’s alsotheIndianAirlines‘India placeIslands, butyoucan’tvisitthesame totheLakshadweep excepttheflight flight, for each sector. flight Youcantravel onany US$630/895 for15/21days,plusUS$21 tax tickets. cheaper thanbuyingindividualdiscounted rarely these However, workout air passes. lines, Jet Airways andAirSahara–alloffer The bigthree Indianairlines–Air- Air Passes across India. Spicejet Airlines Sahara planes to access small runways in Himachal Pradesh. planes toaccesssmallrunwaysinHimachal Valley andthenortheast. theKullu growing listofdestinations,includingKashmir, countries, but a poor record on safety and service. butapoorrecord onsafetycountries, andservice. to20neighbouring across Indiaandinternationalservices hasflights subsidiary AllianceAir,thestatedomesticcarrier with majorhubsacrossIndia. New airlines seem tospringupevery New airlinesseem Indian Airlines’‘Discover India’passcosts (www.goair.in) Goa connecting Newbudgetcarrier, (www.goindigo.in) setto Agrowingbudgetcarrier (www.spicejet.com) Discountseatstohubs (www.airindia.com) India’s national carrier India’snationalcarrier (www.airindia.com) (www.airdeccan.net)Budgetfares anda (www.jetairways.com) Rated bymanyas Rated (www.jetairways.com) (www.jagsonairline.com) Uses tiny Dornier UsestinyDornier (www.jagsonairline.com) (www.indian-airlines.nic.in) Withits (www.airsahara.net) Hotontheheelsof (www.airsahara.net) (www.flykingfisher.com) Yep, it’s lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 1171 Luggage is either stored in compartments is either stored Luggage Buses run by the state government bus bus Buses run by the state government There are also numerous ferry services also numerous ferry are There sit between the axles to minimise the effect of bumps and potholes. underneath the bus (sometimes for a small on the charge of or it can be carried free fee) up for will carry your bags Conductors roof. a modest tip, or you can scramble up yourself ever, roads are perilous, buses are driven with driven perilous, buses are ever, roads are always a are and accidents wilful abandon is no al- night buses there unless risk. Avoid use roads as an the quieter – drivers ternative risks. death-defying excuse even more to take snack and toilet stops, regular All buses make from the rattle and shake a break providing to journey times. but adding hours and most safest usually the companies are option, and seats up can be booked reliable buses to Private tend to a month in advance. notorious speed- are but drivers be cheaper cram as many pas- demons and conductors on as possible to maximisesengers profits. a boon on all long-distanceEarplugs buses are to muffle any bus, music. On the deafening ferries from Visakhapatnamferries (Andhra Pradesh) ). From Oc- p1111 (seeto the Andaman Islands services also ferry are there from tober to May, to the Lakshadweep in Kerala (Cochin) Kochi ). p1023 seeIslands (around 20 hours; wicker pontoons to from chain across rivers, boat cruises – see the coracles, and various chapter and the Activities chapters regional information. for more p93 BUS around way to get the cheapest Buses are trains prefer India, though most travellers for long-distance journeys. Services fast are the only way to buses are and and frequent, How- around many mountainous areas. get 2000, and extras like panniers, stands and stands and panniers, like and extras 2000, Reselling is quite available. readily bells are up shops or put local cycle or hire easy – ask at You should noticeboards. on travel an advert you originally paid what 50% of be able to get is still in reason- and a new bike back if it was ably good condition. BOAT connect mainland ferries Regular scheduled Andaman Islands (seeIndia to Port Blair in the from around 60 hours ). The trip takes p1111 from) or around 56 hours p1042 Chennai (see also sporadic are ). There p512 Kolkata (see 10am- (Trail- h /fax 011-23392578; % (

Bicycle Touring Man- Bicycle GETTING AROUND •• Bicycle can provide local advice. local advice. can provide

Cycle Federation of India Cycle Federation (Bicycle Books, 1987) and Stephen Lord’s Stephen (Bicycle Books, 1987) and

Road rules are virtually nonexistent in in virtually nonexistent Road rules are Read up on bicycle touring before you you before Read up on bicycle touring Air passes are also available from Jet Air- from Jet also available Air passes are Hero, Atlas, Hercules or Raleigh start Atlas, Hercules at Rs Hero, Mountain-bikes from reputable brands like brands like from reputable Mountain-bikes The best place to buy anything bicycle-related The best place to buy anything bicycle-related (Map is Delhi’s Jhandewalan Cycle Market and domestic has imported ), which pp120–1 parts. and spare new and secondhand bikes Purchase Purchase a roadworthy, Indian-made bike. Hire places Hire a roadworthy, Indian-made bike. a security deposit (cash, airline may require or passport). Seeticket Cycling & Motorcyc- a bike. for good places to rent p93 ling on Leh – are the easiest places to find bicycles for the easiest places to find bicycles Leh – are Expect to pay Rs 30 to Rs 100 per day for hire. Big tourist centres and other places where and other places where Big tourist centres and hang around – eg Goa, Hampi travellers can cover 60km to 100km a day on the plains, can cover 40km to 60km on sealed mountain roads and on dirt roads. 40km or less Hire roads. Be conservative about the distances – an experienced cyclist you expect to cover India and cities and national highways are India and cities and national highways are hazardous places to cycle, so stick to back 5pm Mon-Fri) The IGI Sports Velodrome, Complex, New Delhi; Yamuna start. Consult local cycling magazines and cy- cling clubs for useful information and advice. ual Handbook Adventure Cycle-Touring good places to blazer Publications, 2006) are travel – Rob van de Plas’ – Rob van de Plas’ travel information about transporting your bike and and your bike transporting information about home country. customs formalities in your gage fee, on the roofs of public buses – handy of on the roofs fee, gage Contact your airline for for uphill stretches. can often be carried for free, or for a small lug- or for a be carried for free, can often against India’s potholed and puncture-prone and puncture-prone against India’s potholed abound but cycle mechanics roads. Roadside brake and tires still bring spare you should kit, repair a chain cables, lubricating oil and Bikes patches. repair puncture and plenty of into India, though it may be cheaper to hire to hire into India, though it may be cheaper Mountain bikes you arrive. after or buy a bike with off-road the best protection give tires BICYCLE BICYCLE bringing a bicycle on no restrictions are There (Indian nationals only). (Indian nationals ways (foreigners and Indians) and Air Sahara Air Sahara Indians) and and ways (foreigners lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT your chances of securing a seat, either send a a your chances eithersend of aseat, securing Tomaximise behind in themadrush foraseat. and travellers‘ordinary’ buses often get left are rarely possibleon agents. Reservations orlocaltravel –atthe busstand ment buses vance –uptoamonthinadvancefor govern- Deluxe can usuallybebooked buses inad- Reservations fare foratwo-by-two service. the fare forAC andtripleorquadruplethe double the ordinaryfare fordeluxe services, all-day orovernight trip.Addaround50% to daytime journeyandRs200to300foran expect topayRs4060forathree-hour – tostate butpricesvaryfromstate buses The cheapest are buses ‘ordinary’government Costs travel agencies andtouristoffices. are usuallydisplayedonsignsorbillboardsat Timetables anddestinations luxe busservices. runtheirownreliable touristoffices state de- ble bookdirectly withthebuscompany–many atsuper-deluxeordinary buses prices. Ifpossi- agents have knowntobookpeopleonto been warnedthat at conveniently centralstops.Be which tendtwo buses, toleave andterminate tourist townsoffer expensive private two-by- Travelclining two-by-two seating. agents in withACto flashyVolvotourbuses andre- from lessdecrepit versions of ordinarybuses more expensive ‘deluxe’ which range buses, windows thatblastindustandcoldair–or –ageingary’ buses rattletrapswithwonky Both stateandprivate companiesoffer ‘ordin- Classes areas many mountain –see p1177 . inside thebus. leaveand never yourday-packunattended an eyeonyourbagsatsnackandtoiletstops on bumpyroads!Theftisaminorrisksokeep theirbelongingsgobouncingofftheroof seen baggage rack–someunluckytravellers have are locked shutandsecurely tiedtothemetal outlying villages. between is nowonlypossibleonlocalbuses dangerous, and(b)toomuch fun.Roof-riding but theauthoritieshave decidedthatitis(a) theIndiancountryside a thrillingwaytosee secure. tobe Roof used ridingonpublicbuses and have peaceof mindthatyourluggage is 1172 If yourbagsgoontheroof, make sure they Share jeeps complement the bus service in Share complementthebusservice jeeps ETN RUD • a AROUND••Car GETTING operate in adesignated area, dictated bytheir charter companieswillonly trips.Sometaxi where stands taxi youcanarrange tours and travellers tosplitthefare. Mosttownshave comes downdramaticallyifyoucanfindother placesinoneday,andthecost several to see Hiring acaranddriver isanexcellentway Hiring aCar&Driver handrails. they are,tothe them–orholdontightly use are rarelythe costs.Seatbelts working–if peopleshare particularlyifseveral affordable, but hiringacarwithdriver issurprisingly Few people botherwithself-drive car rental CAR thecrowds. through so beready tosharpenyourelbowsandbarge queue inIndia. Thisincludesfemale travellers unspoken topushthefrontof right any frequently Womenhave jointhemelee. an obvious assignsare often inHindiandmen thisisn’talwayswomen’s queue,although becomesfree.will have untilaseat tostand itsjourney,you board abusmid-waythrough methodrarely fails.Ifyou This ‘reservation’ open windowandplaceitonanemptyseat. or passabookarticleof an clothing through travelling companionaheadtograb somespace return trip.One-waytrips often costasmuch fareexpect a higher tocover petrol forthe If yourdestination isaremote backwater, moreroads uses cost). petrol,hence thehigher and theterrain tance (drivingonmountain The costof charter tripsdependsonthedis- COSTS thatyou’reknow fromtheoutset theboss! their driver. Politely, butfirmly,letthedriver of having theirholidaycompletely dictatedby from dayone. Many travellers have complained yourjudgement.rassment –use meal isanicegesture embar- butitcancause tobuythedriver Offering in theevening. a andeatingarrangementstheir ownsleeping book (preferably inwriting).Drivers make accommodation, butconfirmthiswhenyou the fare shouldcover thedriver’s mealsand lish andknowstheregion. Formulti-daytrips, der, there maybeanadditionalfee. government bor- permit.Ifyoucrossastate At many bus stations thereAt manybusstations isaseparate Finally, itis Try tofindadriver whospeakssomeEng- essential to set the ground rules thegroundrules to set lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT be-

1173 Varanasi ---

(www.budget Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) Thiruvananthapuram --- 2718

; you’ll need an

Budget Panaji (Panjim) Panaji

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986 1803 Mumbai (Bombay) Mumbai

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540 1579 1526 Kolkata (Calcutta) Kolkata --- 678 2337 2120 1916

(www.hertz.com)

Jodhpur --- 966 2492 2423 1169 1506

Hertz Jaisalmer ---

277

2611 2129 1625 1085 1446 and Jaipur you start your journey and make sure that sure you start your journey and make

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332 614 837 1692 1152 2678 1515 LOCAL TRANSPORT LOCAL TRANSPORT taxis,Buses, autorickshaws, cycle-rickshaws, transport provide boats and urban trains trans- any form of around India’s cities. On on the fare agree fare, port without a fixed fore If your luggage every and passenger. it covers when altercations you don’t, expect heated local where to your destination. Even you get to may refuse drivers transport is metered, use demanding an elevated ‘fixed’ the meter, Delhi International rental companies with repre- companies rental International sentatives India include in .com) permit. driving international HITCHING bus service supplement the Truck drivers in in particularly a fee, for areas some remote Ladakh, Lahaul However, and Spiti. as drivers difficulty have speak English, you may rarely to go and work- you want explaining where is a fair price to pay. As ing out how much strongly advised against women are anywhere, hitching alone.

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253 813 585 858 837 1491 1945 1405 Chennai (Madras) Chennai

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913 716 1621 2002 2072 2163 1332 2394 2275 Bengaluru (Bangalore) Bengaluru

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995 337 576 1961 2039 2080 2876 1875 1824 1747 Agra --- 562 230 206 607 839 2468 1833 1285 1957 1736 1196 GETTING AROUND •• Hitching Varanasi Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) Panaji (Panjim) Mumbai (Bombay) Jaipur Delhi Jaisalmer Kolkata (Calcutta) Jodhpur Agra Chennai (Madras) Bengaluru (Bangalore)

You generally pay the fee at the end of the at the end of pay the fee You generally

Expect to pay Rs 1500 to Rs 2000 for a Expect for a pay Rs 1500 to Rs 2000 to ROAD DISTANCES (KM)

cities, but given the hair-raising driving condi- driving the hair-raising cities, but given opt for a car with driver. tions most travellers Self-Drive Hire Self-Drive Hire Self-drive larger is possible in India’s car hire at the time). A moderate tip is customary at tip at the time). A moderate your journey. the end of trip, though the driver may ask for an advance trip, though the driver this of record for a written petrol (ask to cover an 80km limit). starting point for an eight-hour (with city tour tions and meals and accommodation for the tions and meals and accommodation Sightseeinga single city trips around driver. – Rs 500 is a reasonable usually cheaper are confirm in advance that the fare covers petrol, covers the fare confirm in advance that sightseeing stops, all your chosen destina- a time limit or a maximum kilometre dis- or a maximum kilometre a time limit you’ll tance over, day trips – if you go for later, problems To avoid extra. to pay have day trip, including petrol and waiting time petrol and waiting day trip, including at sightsalong the way. Some taxi unions set before you set off. before as return trips for the same reason. Petrol is Petrol same for the trips reason. as return this confirm the price, but included in usually lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT be endlessly stuck in traffic). It’susually be endlessly stuckintraffic). rushhour,when theycan and evening breakneck (exceptduringmorning speed mechanical monsters which travel at ies, are fume-belching, human-stuffed, particularlyinthebig cit- Urban buses, Bus boats carrybikes andmotorcyclesforafee. regional chaptersacles –see Most for details. andwickercar ferries towoodencanoes cor- across anddownrivers in India,frombig Various kinds of localferries offer transport Boat articulated arm. tractorlike onan tempo withafrontwheel fearsome-looking ‘three-wheeler’ –acrude, fare. Incountryareas, the youmayalsosee gers, runningonfixed routes forafixed autorickshaws withroomformore passen- ofthe level pollutionoutside. depending ontheambienttemperature and of coldair–which canbeaboonorcurse, noisy andtheopenwindowsallowinblasts the clunkytwo-stroke enginesare smellyand on isachallenge. gettingthough thedriver toturnthemeter everywhere) andtheyare usuallymetered, tend not tobecheaper (though thantaxis company thatmakes them).Autorickshaws autos, scooters, tuk-tuksorBajaj (after the gage. Youmayalsohearautorickshawscalled providing roomfortwopassengers andlug- motorcyclewithatinorcanvascab, wheeled The Indian autorickshaw isbasicallyathree- Autorickshaw, Tempo&Vikram information see p1133 . volved inthecommissionracket –formore have change. andrickshaw faresfor taxi asdrivers rarely plentyofextra forluggage. Carry smallbills to 100%)andsomedrivers charge afew rupees to town.Fares usuallyincrease (byup atnight a metered fare. larly toairports,itmaybeimpossibleget theirmeters.to use Onsomeroutes, particu- fareselevated –moving are taxis more likely intouristareastaxis almostalwaysaskfor fare. Ifthishappens,findanothercab. Parked 1174 Tempos Travelling byautocanbegreat fun,but Many drivers taxi/autorickshaw are in- Costs forpublictransportvaryfromtown ETN RUD • oa rnpr AROUND••LocalTransport GETTING

and vikrams are basicallyoutsized that themeter isbroken andrequest ahugely meter isamajor hassle. Drivers often claim metered. getting However, drivers the touse Most townshave are andthese usually taxis, Taxi too colonialforcomfort. feel thatbeingtowedaroundbyalocalislittle somepeople by therickshaw-wallah.Ofcourse, powered rickshaw, ahand-cartpulleddirectly appreciated. kilometre journeyintownandtipsare always Rs 40isafairpricetopayforoneortwo them afew AroundRs20to extrarupees. the rickshaw-wallahs, it’shardtobegrudge putinby eigners, butconsideringtheeffort must beagreed uponinadvance. towns. As andautorickshaws, fares withtaxis main meansof localtransportinmanysmaller out thecycle-rickshaw,buttheyare stillthe for luggage. Mostof thebigcitieshave phased wet weather,orlowered toprovide extraspace gers. Mosthave in acanopythatcanberaised forpassen- supportingabench seat wheels, A cycle-rickshaw isapedalcyclewithtworear Cycle-Rickshaw Meters are almostalways outdated, sofares are from theairportortrainstation. aprepaid It isusuallylesshassletouse taxi if thishappenstoyou,justfindanothertaxi. areas, flatlyrefuse themeter some taxis – touse willoftentaxi miraculouslyfixit.Intourist fixedelevated fare. Threatening toget another for anautorickshaw ortaxi. more convenient toopt andcomfortable Kolkata isthelastbastionofKolkata thehuman- Getting ameteredGetting rideisonlyhalfthebattle. Locals invariablypaylowerfares thanfor- instead. may have prepaid autorickshawbooths andstations other ideas!Smaller airports sen destination,in case thedriver has any payment couponuntilyourreach yourcho- However, sense toholdonthe itmakes andcommissionscams.avoid pricehikes (which willincludebaggage)andhopefully can bookataxitotownforfixed price just outsidetheterminal building. Here, you tions have aprepaid-taxi booth,normally andmanytrainsta- Most Indianairports PREPAID TAXIS lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 1175 If you’re going to remote regions it’s also it’s also regions going to remote If you’re One consistently reliable company for for company reliable One consistently For all machines (particularly older ones),For all machines crash course in Enfield mechanics and repairs. and repairs. course in Enfield mechanics crash for other recom- See chapters the regional companies. mended rental Insurance – with third-party insurance a bike Only hire if you hit someone without insurance, the trip with new tyres (around Rs 1500) and carry trip with new tyres your own wheels. to remove spanners Hire out motorcycles for local places rent Plenty of and Indian- Japanese tours. trips and longer are in the 100cc to 150cc range made bikes the big 350cc to 500cc Enfields. than cheaper your pass- a deposit, you’ll need to leave As or a big cash lump sum. See port, air-ticket information on local for chapters the regional firms. rental is Lalli Exports rentals long-term Motorbike ). A 500cc Enfield costs Rs 13,000/ p1176 ( weeks.23,000 for three/eight in- The price cludes excellent advice and an invaluable lines, piston rings etc). Spare parts for Indian lines, piston rings etc). Spare widely available are machines and Japanese Bagh Karol in towns and cities. Delhi’s is a for all Indian and good place to find parts bikes. imported and tighten check you regularly sure make all nuts and bolts, as Indian roads and engine to work things loosevibration tend quickly. oil levelregularly Check the engine and gearbox (at least every 500km) and clean the oil filter the road Given thousand kilometres. every few at least a you’ll make are conditions, the chances – start yourvisits to a puncture-wallah couple of cycle in India, however, many places are happy India, however,cycle in are many places your home licence from driving with the be able you may tourist areas, country. In motorcycle without a driving a small to rent by won’t be covered definitely licence, but you an accident. the eventinsurance in of Parts Fuel & Spare widely available and engine oil are Petrol widely stationsin the plains, but petrol are to spaced in the mountains. If you intend you carry ensure regions, to remote travel enough extra fuel (seek fuel local advice about setting off). before availability time of At the to Rs 45 per litre. writing, petrol cost Rs 30 fuel (valves, important to carry basic spares GETTING AROUND •• Motorcycle

The most preferred starting point for motor- The most preferred The classic way to motorcycle round India

International Driving Permit to hire a motor- to hire Driving Permit International Driving Licence Driving Licence a valid to have required technically You’re has since changed. It’s still possible to cross has since changed. into Nepal, Bangladesh with the and Bhutan paperwork – contact dip- the relevant correct lomatic mission for details. time of research, it wasn’t possible to cross it wasn’t possible research, time of if the law by motorcycle – check into Pakistan – for the best times to visit see the Fast Facts Facts – for the best times to visit see the Fast At the chapters. regional at the start of boxes Weather is an important factor to consider cycle tours is Delhi, and popular destinations cycle tours include Rajasthan, South India and Ladakh. manual, making them easy to repair (parts can manual, making them easy to repair in India). On the other be found everywhere than many of less reliable hand, Enfields are bikes. the newer, Japanese-designed is on an Enfield Bullet, still built to the original well as making a sat- 1940s specifications. As fully are isfying chugging sound, these bikes going it alone. there are some excellent motorcycle tours (see some excellent motorcycle tours are there you the rigmarole of ) that will save p1176 stop when and where you want. However, mo- stop when and where an undertaking – torcycle touring can be quite far better than four-wheeled vehicles, and and vehicles, than four-wheeled far better being able to the added bonus of you’ll have Despite the horrendous traffic, India is an the horrendous Despite amazing country for long-distance motorcycle roads Motorcycles handle the pitted touring. trains that leave from ordinary train stations. from trains that leave for further details. See chapters regional MOTORCYCLE fast and efficient networks. train underground suburban all have Mumbai, Delhi and Chennai

In some towns, tongas (horse-drawnIn some towns, tongas two- (horse-drawn and victorias car- wheelers) Kolkata has a tram still operate. riages) and Kolkatanetwork and both Delhi have Other Local Transport Other Local Transport ers supplement their earnings with commis their earnings with supplement ers to any unplanned diversions sions – refuse agencies. travel private or shops, hotels soon get a feel for the difference between a for the difference feel a soon get taxi driv- Many and a rip-off. fare reasonable card’. Predictably, this system is open to abuse. is open to abuse. this system card’. Predictably, town, you’ll days in any a few If you spend calculated using a combination of the meter the meter of using a combination calculated adjustment ‘fare complicated and a reading lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT .ihug.co.nz/~gumby) these loveablethese machines. but temperamental get inrunningandmaintaining acrash-course andrentssells Enfieldsandparts, andbuyers thisplace Singh, astic andknowledgeable Lalli BaghMarket) Rd,Karol Abdul Aziz SinghNalwaSt, www.lallisingh.com; 1740-A/55Basement,Hari Exports Lalli Motorbike We consistently receive goodreports about and partsshops, butplentyof dodgydealers. hasdozensSt inKarol of Bagh motorcycle other bikers. approach localmotorcyclemechanics and around. Checktravellers’ noticeboardsand machine isamattera secondhand of asking easier thanbuyinganewmachine. Finding are widely available andthepaperworkisalot purchasing bikes amotorcycle. Secondhand If youare planningalonger tour,consider Purchase Wheel ofIndia Saffron RoadMotorcycleTours Royal Expeditions Moto Discovery Lalli SinghTours Indian Shepherds Indian MotorcycleAdventures Roadrunners Himalayan Travel H-C Wheels Ferris Adventures Classic Bike Blazing Trails itinerariesandprices): details, websitesreputable for contact companies(see arehicle, mechanic andaguide.some Below cycle tours aroundIndiawithasupportve- Dozens of companies offer organised motor- Organised MotorcycleTours per year. ance (recommended) costsRs500to2000 your ownmachine. Comprehensive insur- hit,butnocoveror propertyyoumight for medical costsforanyothervehicles, people to Rs500peryear. Thiswillcover repair and third-party insurance–available forRs300 a motorcycle. of Theminimumlevel cover is reputable. thatdon’tprobably aren’tpolicies. Those panies willincludethird-partycover intheir canbesevere.consequences com- Reputable 1176 .com) In Delhi,thearea aroundHari Nalwa Singh You mustalsoarrange insuranceifyoubuy ETN RUD • oocce AROUND••Motorcycle GETTING (www.hctravel.com) (www.ferriswheels.com.au) (www.jewelholidays.com) (www.wheelofindia.com) (www.motodiscovery.com) (www.lallisingh.com) (www.asiasafari.com) (www.royalexpeditions.com) Mp pp120-1; (Map

(www.classic-bike-india.com) (www.ridehigh.com) . Runbytheenthusi- (http://homepages (www.saffronroad % 011-25728579; gives more. slightly 500cc gives about25km/L:the350ccmodel can cover fuelstops.AnEnfield between whichfuel tank, willincrease therange you extraisacustomised to comeby.Oneuseful caps, petrolfilters andextratoolsare easy tion bars, rear-view mirrors, lockablefuel extras like panniers, luggage racks,protec- are available forRs1000to1500,and to payforinsurance–see p1175 . Helmets to explaintheprocess. sive thebike –asktheshopyoubought from bike overseas iscomplicated andexpen- in reasonable condition.Shipping anIndian thirds of thepriceyoupaid ifthebike isstill your bike, expecttoget halfandtwo between (for Rs10,000to15,000).Whenre-selling before off youset bikesecondhand serviced toget.royalenfield.com. It’sadvisable any for newEnfieldmodelsare listed onwww model willcostRs35,000to65,000.Prices will costRs18,000to40,000;the500cc A well-looked-after 350ccEnfield secondhand COSTS a buy-back option. motorcycleswith newandsecondhand sells (Lamington)Rd,OperaHouse) Dr DBhadkamkar on theroad. togetweeks thepaperwork finished and get some honestoperators. Allowaroundtwo earlier for section thePurchase the bike –see advicefromthecompanyselling toseek sense process isextremely complicated anditmakes associated withthebike.ceedings Thewhole are debtsorcriminal pro- nooutstanding and youmustmake absolutely sure thatthere 15yearsnewed every (foraroundRs5000) you, addingtothecost. itmustregisterpany selling the machine for of insurance. Ifyoubuyanewbike, thecom- forms forachange of ownership andtransfer the registration. Instead, you must filloutthe Foreign nationalscannotchange thenameon bike. papers whenyoubuyasecondhand these when thebike isfirst soldandyou’llneed are signed bythelocalregistration authority owning amotorcycle. Theregistration papers There isplenty of paperworkassociated with OWNERSHIP PAPERS Tyrewalla As wellasthecostof thebike, you’llhave For anybike, theregistration mustbere- A decentfirminMumbaiis ( %

022-23099313; www.premjis.com; 205/207 lonelyplanet.com Allibhai Premji Allibhai Premji , which TRANSPORT 1177 On any overnight tour or trek, ensure that ensure tour or trek, On any overnight Drivers typically double as guides, or you typically double Drivers Jeeps run from jeep run from stands ‘passenger and Jeeps See the Tours sections in the regional See sections in the regional the Tours Be warned that many locals suffer from bench seats at the rear. Jeeps only leave when when leave only Jeeps seatsbench rear. at the International Tour Agencies International Tour Agencies to tours companies offer international Many India, from straightforward sightseeing trips holidays. and activity-based tours to adventure quiz your interests, that match To find tours and surf the web. Some interest- agents travel include the following: ing possibilities demand to see evidence from guides who the experience Assess claim to be accredited. dis- guides by asking about routes, trekking of – vague involved terrain tances and the type of set should off alarm bells. answers (eg all the necessary equipment is provided and inspect everything aid, camping gear) first you set off. Always confirm exactly before price includes (food, accom- what the quoted equipment, guide modation, petrol, trekking etc). fees For for information on local tours. chapters the Activities read and tours, on treks more chapter ( p90 ). roads. Be prepared to give up your window up your window to give roads. Be prepared seat passengers. to queasy fellow TOURS run by India, all over available are Tours companies and tourist offices, local transport can be an tours Organised agencies. travel way to seeinexpensive several places on one time at each much get trip, through you rarely a tour through the local If you arrange place. about freedom more taxi office, you’ll have you go and how long you stay. where How- a qualified local guide for a fee. can hire profes- touts claiming to be ever, be wary of the local sional guides in tourist towns. Ask guides and tourist office about recommended full, and it is not uncommon for everyone uncommon it is not full, and a half-fullto bail out of jeep and pile onto a Drivers to depart. is ready that fuller vehicle for all the if you pay immediately will leave empty seats in the vehicle. roads; ask major stations’at the junctions of See you in the rightlocals to point direction. In and fares. for routes chapters the regional as ‘sumos’ after known jeepssome states, are 4WD. Sumo, India’s favourite the TATA sickness, particularly on mountain travel GETTING Jeeps •• Share AROUND

Try not to cover too much territory in one territory too much Try not to cover

For long hauls, transporting your bike your bike For long hauls, transporting sengers, most share jeeps squeeze in eleven. most share sengers, The seats the behind immediately beside and than the cramped expensive more are driver In mountain areas, share jeeps supplement the share In mountain areas, Al- bus service, fares. similar fixed charging pas- to six though nominally designed for five SHARE JEEPS SHARE JEEPS advice of the Border Roads Organisation – it the Border Roads Organisation advice of to be Mr Lateis better than Late Mr! Drink – it’s illegal as and riding never go together well as dangerous. vehicles. Locals tend to use the horn more to use Locals tend the horn more vehicles. should heed the but travellers than the brake, road. Observe local speed limits (these vary way to any larger from state to state) and give Traffic on the left, in India nominally drives the all over everyone drives but in reality, a storage fee of around Rs 30 per day. around Rs 30 of fee a storage Road Rules at the far end. If the bike is left waiting at the at the far end. If the bike you’ll pay than 24 hours, destination for more clared value of the bike. Bring the same paper- the bike. value of clared from the goods office work to collect your bike tive sacking for around Rs 100 and you must tive fill out various forms and pay the shipping – around Rs 1600 for a 350cc or smaller fee the de- 1% of of insurance fee – plus an bike driving licence and insurance documents. driving licence and insurance documents. in protec- will wrap your bike Packing-wallahs standard train ticket for the journey, then take then take for the journey, standard train ticket to the station with your parcel office your bike international papers, passport, registration by train can be a convenient option. Buy a option. Buy by train can be a convenient dynamo-powered motorcycle headlamps are motorcycle headlamps are dynamo-powered useless while negotiating around at low revs highwayspotholes. On busy national expect 50km/h without stops; on wind- to average tracks this can drop ing back roads and dirt to 10km/h. day and avoid travelling after dark if at all pos- after travelling day and avoid without lights and drive sible – many vehicles hazard for bikers. hazard for bikers. marked speed Rural roads sometimes humps. marked be across them to strewn grain crops have – a serious sliding passing vehicles by threshed riageway to broken-down trucks, pedestrians broken-down to riageway and un- and perpetual potholes on the road, a country for novice riders. Hazards range range Hazards riders. novice a country for the car- crossing and chickens from cows Road Conditions Conditions Road is not in India, this conditions the road Given lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT cookery, arts and horse riding. andhorse riding. arts cookery, Tailor-made andspecial-interest tours,includingwildlife, adventure focus. includingtourswithaholistic,wildlife and specialist trips, ethos. and SouthIndia,witharesponsible-tourism andtreks inNorth tailor-made andspecial-interest trips (Rs 45), available at train station bookstands (Rs 45),available bookstands at trainstation worth buying acopyof book butthere are It’s hundreds of services. and theft–see p1133 . tobeawarething else of drugging ispassenger onovercrowdedstampedes platforms.Some- year,peoplegetevery crushedtodeath in often increased duringmajor festivals but can get very crowded duringpeakhours. have these suburbantrainnetworks, though andovernightdistance trips. Somecitiesalso ticket. Trainsare forlong- farbetter thanbuses fortipsonbuyinga tions later inthissection are incredibly Reserva- wellorganised –see bewildering,butbehind thescenesthings seem ing 1.6millionworkers. largest employerintheworld,withastagger- isthesecond dayandIndianRailways every 14 millionpassengers travel bytraininIndia train isareason totravel Around allbyitself. and theexperienceof travelling onanIndian network isextensive, pricesare reasonable, Train travel isoneof thejoysof India. The TRAIN World Expeditions IndiaTours Sacred Adventures Peregrine Travellers Intrepid Indian Encounters India WildlifeTours Exodus Essential India Dragoman Overland 1178 and Ayurvedic trips. and Ayurvedic orholisticfocus,includingyoga,meditation with aspiritual tours, cycling tours and volunteering-based trips. trips. tours, cyclingtoursandvolunteering-based tours,walking tours,trekking Options includecooking Rajasthan, Sikkim and Ladakh. andLadakh. Sikkim Rajasthan, wildlife andculturaltoursinSouthIndia, Trekking, tours. festivals, wildlife andcooking cruising, range oftours,fromsightseeingtocycling,river tours andbird-watching. fishing safaris, ofwildlife tours,plushorse-riding All sorts around Indiaoncustomisedvehicles. toand trips overlandtourcompaniesoffering several We’ve this trainsthroughout listed useful destinationsare tocertain Train services At first, can theprocessof bookingaseat (www.exodustravels.co.uk) Awidearrayof ETN RUD • ri AROUND••Train GETTING (www.essential-india.co.uk) Various (www.indianencounters.com) (www.worldexpeditions.com.au) (www.sacredindia.com) Offers tours (www.sacredindia.com) Offers (www.intrepidtravel.com) Ahuge (www.india-wildlife-tours.com) (www.india-wildlife-tours.com) (www.dragoman.com) Oneof (www.peregrine.net.au) (www.peregrine.net.au) Trains at a Glance

Express and mailtrainsusuallyhave general comeinavarietyof classes. Trains andseats Classes master usuallyspeakEnglish. such officials mid-level asthedeputystation picking thebesttrain.Atsmallerstations, have whocanhelpwith English-speaking staff often Bigstations www.seat61.com/India.htm. (www.indianrail.gov.in). engineonthe search thetrain all themainlines,oryoucanuse comprehensivecontains covering timetables and better It bookshopsandnewsstands. job). In all sleeping compartments,the lower job). Inall sleeping bedding (an Indianshawl isperfect for the chai-wallah. class, bringyourown Insleeper plusregular visitsfromthecoffee- and service, compartments and there isusuallyameal compartments withlockingdoors. AC (1AC) berths, withachoice of 2-or4-berth the aisle. Sometrainsalsohave flashier1stclass (2AC) berths ingroups of fouroneitherside of configurationassleepers, ortwo-tierACsame have eitherthree-tier AC (3AC) berths, inthe air-cooled carriages. Air-conditioned carriages with tworoomierberths across theaisle,in berths‘Sleeper’ are arranged ingroupsof six, andmorebetter seats space. (usually) AC, oranexecutive chair car,with a chair-car withpaddedreclining and seats Ondaytrains,thereyou canreserve. maybe ofseries more compartmentsthat comfortable –usuallyareal free-for-allseating –anda (2nd class)compartmentswithunreserved Bedding isprovided inallACBedding sleeping For overnight trips,youhave choices. several

rail journeys. colonial charm.Here are thetopfive scenic hills, offering fabulousviewsandahintof linesfromtheplainsto metre-gauge A handfulofdelightful toy trains stillplythe TOP FIVESCENICTRAINJOURNEYS Visakhapatnam throughEastern Visakhapatnam Ghats MatheranToyTrain( p820 ) ShimlaToyTrain( p290 ) Mettupalayam–Ooty Miniature Train DarjeelingToyTrain( p535 ) ( p954) ( p1103) Another useful resourceAnother useful is Indian Railways website Indian Railways lonelyplanet.com

TRANSPORT 1179 . 022-22026713; % (

MTDC 011-23389525; Bikaner House, Pandara %

Delhi For an excellent description of the various the various of excellent description For an

Major stations offer ‘retiring rooms’, which rooms’, which ‘retiring stations offer Major .indianrail.gov.in. Seniors get discounted train Seniors discounted get .indianrail.gov.in. . p1134 – seetickets or Ind- a valid ticket can be handy if you have . Another useful facility p1126 – see rail Pass (cloakroom). Locked office is the left-luggage a small daily fee for bags (only) can be stored For peace of a valid train ticket. if you have rack and bag to the baggage your mind, chain you can sure times to make the opening check your bag when you need it. get train classes (including pictures) seeclassestrain pictures) (including www .seat61.com/India.htm. Costs by distance calculated of and class are Fares . p1180 text, in the boxed shown – as travel slightly more Rajdhani trains are Shatabdi and meals. Most but the price includes expensive, ser- a catering have carriages air-conditioned brought to your seat,vice (meals are carry but to usesome tissues In unreserved as napkins). classes, carry samosas or other portable snack www on foods. You can search for exact fares (RTDC;

offers seven nights of luxury covering the main tourist the main tourist of luxury covering nights seven offers (www.palaceonwheels.net) operates week-long tours of Rajas- week-long operates (www.palaceonwheels.net) 0141-2202586; Hotel Swagatam Campus, Station Rd, Jaipur 302006) %

Deccan Odyssey Deccan Jaipur Palace on Wheels on Palace GETTING AROUND •• Train The tourist authorities in KarnatakaThe upmarket been planning a similar train tour for have In Maharashtra, the From October to March, the total fare (seven days) per person is US$2765/2065/1680 for days) per person is US$2765/2065/1680 for (seven From October to March, the total fare Rajasthan’s years, but nothing has so far materialised. For progress updates contact any Karnataka updates For progress years, but nothing has so far materialised. state tourism office. Rd, New Delhi 110011; single/double/triple occupancy including tours, admission fees, accommodation and all meals. accommodation and all meals. fees, single/double/triple occupancy including tours, admission Book in advance online or through the and April it costs US$3745/2695/2205. In September Corporation Development Rajasthan Tourism than, departing from Delhi every Wednesday (September to April). The itinerary includes tours itinerary includes tours The to April). than, departing Wednesday (September from Delhi every Udaipur, Keoladeo Ghana , National Park, to Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Ranthambore deal, the rolling stock is actually looks like Although the train the real and Agra. National Park Car- designed to fit on the wider rails between these popular destinations. a convincing replica, and a bar, as two restaurants are decked finery and there out with all the expected riages are bathrooms. bedrooms with ensuite well as private RIDING THE RAILS IN STYLE RIDING THE RAILS IN STYLE experiences you only find travel is one of those surreal train of a MaharajRiding in the private been put out of service A number of trains have by the switch from narrow to broad in India. palaces on wheels trundling around the Indian countryside. several still are gauge, but there www.maharashtratourism.gov.in/mtdc; Madame Cama Rd, Mumbai 400020). spots of Maharashtra and Goa. The train leaves Mumbai every Wednesday (October to April), Wednesday (October April), to Mumbai every train leaves spots of Maharashtra The and Goa. heading south through the resorts and fort towns of the Konkan Coast to Goa, then looping per person start at (for Ellora), Jalgaon (for Ajanta) and Nasik. Fares Aurangabad inland to Pune, (US$395/295/240 in April). You can do US$485/350/285 per day for single/double/triple occupancy package days; the seven-day costs an extrathe trip one way for a minimum of three US$100 for Make reservations Mumbai’s through guided tours of Mumbai and Goa. Rajdhani express trains are long-distance trains are Rajdhani express There are also special train services also special are There con- the level of comfort – see comfort the level of the Costs section on p1180. In all classes, a padlock and a length useful for securing are your luggage chain of racks. to the baggage fares include meals. Prices of all tickets reflect reflect all tickets Prices of include meals. fares capitals, with a choice of 1AC, 2AC, 3AC and 3AC 2AC, 1AC, of capitals, with a choice 2nd class. Reserved on both Shatabdi tickets but expensive more and Rajdhani trains are overnight servicesovernight between Delhi and state windows cut down the views considerably. views considerably. windows cut down the but un- from the barred The best views are sleeper and gen- non-AC glazed windows of eral carriages. AC executive chair and AC chair cars. Both cars. chair and AC chair executive AC comfortable, but the tinted-glass classes are are same-day servicesare with seating only, in trapped on the wrong side, you’ll have to wait wrong side, you’ll have trapped on the stationtill the next to change. trains express Shatabdi cities. necting major that there is usually a locked door between the a locked is usually that there reserved unreserved and – if you get carriages berths convert to seats convert use.for daytime If berths rather sleep,you’d Note upper berth. book an lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT is available –askthe if youfailtoget aseat on the‘waitlist’and tryyourluck.Arefund many passengers cancel.Youcanbuya ticket payment inrupees. foreign exchange certificates before accepting stillasktosee someoffices However, rupees). Express travellers cheques (change isgiven in Euros, incashorThomasCookand American Britishpounds,USdollars inrupees, or seats allowing foreigners topayfortouristquota government hasrecently changed therules, asID.The to showyourpassportandvisa given intheregional chapters), andyouneed inmajor offices are cities(details ervation canonlybebooked atdedicatedseats res- travelling These popularstations. between asideforforeign isset tourist quota tourists cash. Aspecial eral queueandpayinrupees ments. Elsewhere, you’llhave tojoinagen- windows forforeigners andcredit-card pay- dow, where yourticket willbeprinted. You thenjointhelongqueuetoticket win- where and thenamenumberof thetrain(thisis theclassyouwanttotraveltination station, in thedes- station, window andfillinthestarting slipfromtheinformation areservation obtain for allovernight journeys. Advance bookingsare stronglyrecommended bookingsystem. withacomputerised station 3AC carriages upto60daysinadvanceatany in allchair-car, and1AC, sleeper, 2AC and seats class) compartments.Youcanreserve are requiredNo reservations forgeneral (2nd Reservations 1180 Trains are frequently overbooked, but procedure isfairlysimple– The reservation In larger cities,there are dedicated ticket EXPRESS TRAINFARES INRUPEES Distance (km) 1AC 2AC 3AC Chair car (CC) Sleeper (SL) Second (II) Second Sleeper(SL) 2000 3309 Chaircar(CC) 1500 2734 3AC 1000 2159 1871 500 1325 1546 400 1107 1295 1221 2AC 300 888 1070 749 845 200 653 1007 626 288 832 461 100 400 519 238 1AC 657 381 502 188 433 301 269 Distance (km) 404 226 348 337 185 116 256 97 154 158 271 199 124 78 122 91 57 56 35 Trains at aGlance ETN RUD • ri AROUND••Train GETTING comes into its own). comes intoitsown). book –fromoutsideIndia’heading. online bookings–scrolldowntothe‘How .com/India.htm hassomeexcellentadviceon side Indiabycourier. Thewebsite www.seat61 an e-ticket, orhave thetickets toyouin- sent website www.irctc.co.in, andyoucanchoose scams abound. ticket ticket forasmallcommission, though agencies andhotels your train willpurchase sle of buyingaticket manytravel yourself, lost or partially used tickets.lost orpartiallyused 12 payhalffare. There’s norefund foreither in forprices.Children aged five between and national Touristlinkonwww.indianrail.gov. Indian cities–clickontheInformation/Inter- travel agents, ticket orstation inmajor offices of travel overseas andyoucanbookthrough tions. Passes are available foroneto90days ed savings andyoumust still make reserva- for theperiodof itsvalidity,but itoffers limit- The Indrail Train Passes of forpanickingtravellers! light the sideof carriage each –abeacon reserved A listof namesandberths isalsoposted on directionyou intheright ifyouget confused). canpoint on thesideof staff thetrain(station an eyeoutforyourcarriage numberwritten riage number. Whenthetrainpullsin,keep number (orwait-listnumber)andthecar- check whenyoubook. with apenalty–therulesare complicated so available onanyticket, after even departure, ticket aboutyourchances. office Refundsare Reserved tickets show yourseat/berth Reserved Internet bookingsare alsopossibleonthe If you don’t want to go through thehas- If youdon’twanttogothrough

Pass permitsunlimited railtravel lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 1181 If you take any regular medication, bring any regular If you take It’s a good idea to find out in advance if needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter letter a physician’s to have needles, sure be If you their medical necessity. documenting your of condition, bring a copy a heart have just prior to travelling. ECG taken where an immediate assessment of your prob- assessment an immediate of where lem will be made. VACCINATIONS Specialised travel-medicine clinics are information; they stock all avail- best source of your specific to give able vaccines and will be able US$100,000 are not uncommon. US$100,000 are payments di- your insurance plan will make you or if it will reimburse to providers rectly (In health expenditures. for overseas later expect payment in many countries doctors lower and higher Some policies offer cash.) medical-expense options; the higher ones extremely for countries that have chiefly are high as the USA. You may medical costs, such or hospitals a policy that pays doctors prefer to pay on the rather than you having directly spot and claim from your insurance company sure make to claim later, If you do have later. documentation. all relevant Some you keep back (reverse policies ask that you telephone in your home country to a centre charges) the latest antidepressant drugs, blood pressure drugs, blood pressure antidepressant the latest pills. medications and contraceptive INSURANCE don’t travel fit and healthy, if you are Even do health insurance – accidents without any existing medical condi- happen. Declare company will – the insurance tions you have and will if your problem is pre-existing check You may you if it is undeclared. not cover activities for adventure extra cover require If climbing and scuba diving. as rock such you for your health insurance doesn’t cover medical expenses consider getting abroad, emer- uninsured, If you’re extra insurance. over evacuation bills of gency is expensive; double your ordinary needsdouble your ordinary loss in case of many medi- to buy or theft. You’ll be able a in India without the counter cations over but it can be difficult doctor’s prescription, the newer drugs, particularly to find some of

Travellers tend to worry about contracting to worry about tend Travellers

The following advice is a general guide only The following advice is a general Before You Go Before 1181 Insurance 1181 Vaccinations Resources Internet Reading Further In Transit (DVT) Thrombosis Deep Vein Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In India 1181 of Healthcare Availability Diseases Infectious 1183 1183 Diarrhoea Traveller’s Environmental Hazards 1183 1183 Women’s Health 1184 1183 1184 1186 1187 1184 1189 names, is very useful. or If carrying syringes names, is very from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic Pack medications in their original, clearly la- Pack letter A signed and dated belled containers. BEFORE YOU GO BEFORE YOU GO and does not replace the advice of a doctor of the advice and does not replace medicine. trained in travel behaviour or treated with a well-stocked travel- with a well-stocked or treated behaviour ler’s medical kit. common. Fortunately most travellers’ illnesses travellers’ most common. Fortunately common-sense with some can be prevented account for most life-threatening problems. account for most life-threatening Becoming ill in some way, however, is very these rarely causethese serious rarely illness or death in medical conditions and Pre-existing travellers. accidental injury (especially traffic accidents) infectious diseasesinfectious but when in the tropics, care is basic in many areas so it is essential is basic in many areas care to India. travelling before to be well prepared are common. Many insect-borne diseases are diseases insect-borne are common. Many are Medical particularly in tropical areas. present, nificant health problems. Hygiene is generally nificant health problems. Hygiene is generally illnesses poor in India so food and water-borne tains. Consequently, environmental issues as heat, cold and altitude can causesuch sig- from tropical beaches to the Himalayan moun- to the from tropical beaches

CONTENTS Health Health There is huge geographical variation in India, variation geographical is huge There HEALTH ommends these vaccinationsfortravellersommends these to The WorldHealth Organization (WHO)rec- Recommended Vaccinations vaccinations you’ve received. as the‘yellowbooklet’),which willlistallthe ofCertificate Vaccination known (otherwise ture. Ask yourdoctorforanInternational before weeks a doctorfourtoeight depar- afterat leasttwoweeks they’re given, sovisit ing medicalconditions,such aspregnancy. andunderly- activities youmaybeundertaking past vaccinationhistory,thelengthof yourtrip, doctors willtake intoaccountfactors such as recommendations foryouandyourtrip.The 1182 Most vaccinesdon’tgive immunityuntil „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Recommended items forapersonalmedicalkit: MEDICAL CHECKLIST

Ural orequivalentif prone tourineinfections Thrush (vaginal yeastinfection) treatment, eg ClotrimazolepessariesorDiflucantablet Throat lozenges Sunscreen andhat Steroid cream forallergic/itchy rashes,eg1%to2%hydrocortisone Pyrethrin toimpregnate clothingandmosquitonets Paracetamol medicationifyou suffer Migraine fromthem Laxative, egColoxyl Iodinetablets(unlessyouare pregnant orhave athyroidproblem)topurifywater Indigestiontablets,egQuickEze orMylanta Ibuprofen oranotheranti-inflammatory First-aid items suchasscissors,elastoplasts, bandages,gauze, thermometer (butnotmercury), Diarrhoeamedication–consideranoralrehydration solution(eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea DEET-based repellent insect Decongestant,egPseudoephedrine Contraceptive method Antispasmodicforstomachcramps,egBuscopam Antiseptic,egBetadine Antihistamine–there are manyoptions,egCetrizine fordaytimeandPromethazinenight infections, egAmoxicillin/Clavulanate Antibioticforskin orCephalexin Antibacterial cream, egMuciprocin Antifungalcream, egClotrimazole sterile needlesandsyringes,safety pinsandtweezers Giardia oramoebicdysentery Tinidazole. orCiprofloxacin; for forbacterialfor diarrhoeaincludeNorfloxacin diarrhoeaAzithromycin; ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) andantinauseamedication(eg Prochlorperazine).Antibiotics EOEYUG • Vciain BEFORE YOUGO••Vaccinations include sore armandfever. recommended 10years. ifnonein theprevious Sideeffects protection results. protection headache andsore arm.In95%ofpeoplelifetime areHepatitis A.Sideeffects mildanduncommon,usually is alsoavailable,asacombinedvaccinationwith Given asthree shotsoversixmonths. Arapidschedule Hepatitis B people. headache andsore armoccurin5%to10%of suchas sideeffects Mild another 20years’protection. 12monthsprovidesatleast to ayear;boosterafter Hepatitis A andtetanus Adult diphtheria mumps andrubellavaccinations): India (aswellasbeinguptodate withmeasles, Provides almost 100% protection forup Providesalmost100%protection Nowconsidered routineformosttravellers. Singlebooster lonelyplanet.com HEALTH

1183 Travelling Well by Dr Deborah by Dr Deborah by Dr Richard Da- by Dr Richard . Healthy Travel – Asia & India & – Asia Travel Healthy (www.mfat.govt.nz/travel) (www.dfa.gov.za/travelling) Travelling Well Travelling (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/) (www.travelhealth.gc.ca) Travellers’ Health Health Travellers’ (www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/) (www.cdc.gov/travel/) Canada New Zealand South Africa UK US HEALTH ADVISORIES HEALTH It’s usually a good idea to consult your before website travel-health government’s departure, if one is available: Australia The chief symptom of DVT symptom of is swelling or The chief To prevent the development of DVT the development of on longTo prevent flights, perform isometric the cabin, walk about the leg muscles (ie contract of compressions the leg muscles while sitting), drink plenty of and tobacco. alcohol fluids, and avoid JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS than more lag is common when crossing Jet fa- in insomnia, results time zones; it five jet lag tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS thrombosis (DVT)Deep when vein occurs during plane flights,blood clots form in the legs immobility. The prolonged becausechiefly of the risk. Though the flight, greater the longer uneventfully, reabsorbed most blood clots are through the and travel off some may break they may to the lungs, where blood vessels complications. cause life-threatening the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not pain of a blood clot When always on just one side. pain it may cause to the lungs, chest travels with Travellers and difficulty in breathing. these immediately symptoms should any of seek medical attention. FURTHER READING FURTHER Planet’s Lonely use- with packed size and is a handy pocket planning, including pretrip ful information, aid, immunisation and disease first emergency sick get and what to do if you information, references Other recommended on the road. include wood and of out the website Mills – check (www.travellingwell.com.au) IN TRANSIT

(CDC; is revised (WHO; www.who.int/ith/) (WHO; www.who.int/ith/) Three injections Three in all. Booster Thrombosis (DVT)Deep Vein IN TRANSIT •• (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Provides A complex issue. Adult long-term International Travel & Health International Travel Single injection. two types of are There If you haven’t had chickenpox discuss this Recommended to India, even for all travellers if Three injections Three in all. A booster after one year

In 2007 polio was still present in India. Only one Only one in India. polio was still present In 2007

www.cdc.gov) Good general information. www.cdc.gov) travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin usually recommended travellers are test after and before rather than vaccination. Only one travel, vaccine given in a lifetime. vaccination with your doctor. Its superb book annually and available online. World Health Organization MD Travel Health Centers for Disease Control and Prevention internet – www.lonelyplanet.com is a good internet place to start. Some other suggestions: INTERNET RESOURCES health advice on the travel is a wealth of There ling to India from Africa or South America, proof see to check if you require you should vaccination. of country in the yellow fever zone within the six country in the yellow fever travel- If you are India. days prior to entering The only vaccine required by international by international The only vaccine required vaccina- of Proof is yellow fever. regulations a visited if you have tion will only be required Required Vaccinations Tuberculosis (TB)Tuberculosis Rabies Meningitis Japanese B Encephalitis These immunisations are recommended for These recommended immunisationsare than one month) (more travellers long-term or those at special risk: Varicella Typhoid Polio lonelyplanet.com complete travel health recommendations for everycomplete travel health recommendations country, updated daily. booster is required as an adult for lifetime protection. adult for lifetime as an is required booster Inactivated during is safe polio vaccine pregnancy. will then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are arm. – occasionally headache and sore rare vaccination: the quadravalent vaccine gives two to three gives two to three vaccination: the quadravalent vaccine years’ protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years’ protection. Recommended for long-term backpackers aged under 25. recommended after two years. Sore arm and headache are after arm and headache are recommended Sore two years. the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising occur up to 10 days after hives and swelling can doses. any of the three you only visit urban areas. The vaccine offers around 70% around The vaccine offers areas. you only visit urban protection, years and comes as a two to three lasts for however, also available, are the single shot. Tablets injection side as it has fewer is usually recommended may occur. arm and fever effects. Sore HEALTH or sickbirds istheprincipal sourceof infec- Kong. Currently withdead very contact close human transmission wasrecorded inHong in 1997thefirst of documented case bird-to- cally infects birdsandnothumans;however, of thetypeAinfluenzavirus.Thisvirustypi- ‘Bird Flu’orInfluenzaA(H5N1)is a subtype Avian Flu INFECTIOUS DISEASES tothesun). exposed poorlystoredbeen (eglyinginaglass cabinet Don’tacceptitemspacket thathave issealed. always check theuse-by date and ensure the than torely onself-treatment. byadoctor It isalwaysbetter tobeassessed the nearest qualityfacilitytoreceive attention. especially malaria,donotwaste time;travel to you thinkmayhave disease, aserious you cannotattend arecommended clinic.If you are carryingtherelevant medication and problem isminor(egtraveller’s diarrhoea), rural areas. tofindreliableIt isdifficult medicalcare in mation intheregional chapters inthisbook. Recommended clinicsare listed underInfor- companies shouldyourequire evacuation. withinsurance specialists. Theycanalsoliaise are aware of andbest thesafest localhospitals ally, theyunderstand thelocalsystem, and offer of asuperiorstandard care. Addition- facilities, butare worthutilising,astheywill usually more expensive thanlocalmedical travellers clinicsare andexpatriates. These cities nowhave clinicscatering specificallyto Medical care ishugely variableinIndia. Some AVAILABILITY OFHEALTHCARE IN INDIA a charm forsomepeople. herbal alternative isginger, which workslike ness. isdrowsiness.An Theirmainsideeffect ally thefirst choice fortreating motionsick- and meclizine(Antivert, Bonine)are usu- (Dramamine), promethazine(Phenergan) as possible. your scheduleetc)assoon (formeals,sleep exposure andreadjust tonaturalsunlight meals.Uponarrival,seek and eatinglight try drinkingplentyof fluids (nonalcoholic) 1184 Before buyingmedicationoverBefore thecounter, such asdimenhydrinateAntihistamines Self-treatment maybeappropriate if your Self-treatment NIDA • viaiiyo elhae IN INDIA••Availability ofHealthcare antibiotic. medicaladviceorcommenceageneral seek tum. Ifyouhave thesymptomsof aninfection updiscolouredcoughing orblood-tinged spu- –marked byfever,intervene chest painand bacterial infectionmonly asecondary will Com- cold andaltitudeinthemountains. conditions, such aspollutioninthecities,or a virusandisexacerbated byenvironmental a respiratory infection. as Thisusuallystarts Around 25%of travellers toIndiawilldevelop Coughs, Colds&ChestInfections check twowebsites: these prevent birdflu.Forup-to-date information or expatriates. there have norecorded been intravellers cases bird fluissuspected. Atthetimeof writing immediate medicalcare if should be sought travellers tocarryTamiflu withthem– rather this timeitisnotroutinelyrecommended for mended toimprove At thechances of survival. antiviral drugs,such asTamiflu, isrecom- Theearlyadministrationofin manycases. tion leadingtorespiratory failure anddeath influenza-like symptomswithrapiddeteriora- not easilyoccur. tion andbirdtohumantransmission does and lethargy. There is nospecifictreatment ing jaundice (yellowskin and eyes),nausea and water-borne virusinfects theliver, caus- A problem theregion,throughout thisfood- Hepatitis A andmonitored.diagnosed adoctortobe hood of haemorrhaging. See do nottake aspirinasitincreases thelikeli- specific treatment, justrest – and paracetamol rash andexperiencediarrhoea. There isno ‘breakbone fever’). a Somepeopledevelop body ache (denguewaspreviously knownas fever,toms includehigh severe headache and avoidance measuresinsect atalltimes.Symp- carries denguebites souse dayandnight, avoiding mosquitobites. Themosquitothat cine available itcanonlybeprevented by especially inthecities.As there isnovac- increasingly problematicinthetropicalworld, This isbecomingly mosquito-borne disease Dengue Fever

„ „ www.avianinfluenza.com.au www.who.int/en/ There iscurrently novaccineavailable to feverSymptoms includehigh andtypical lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 1185 The daily tablet doxycycline is a broad- The daily tablet doxycycline Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito advised to prevent are Travellers Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted is caused transmitted by a parasite Malaria combined to should be Two strategies colours going out for your evening meal before lent on exposed this off skin. Wash at sleeping under night, are as long as you such repellents a mosquito net. Natural but must be as citronella can be effective, than products frequently applied more containing DEET. with pyrethrin and fans (if not air-conditioned) high-risk areas Wear long sleeves and trousers in light coils mosquito Use Spray your room with insect repellent Use a DEET-containing insect repel- a DEET-containing Use Sleep net impregnated under a mosquito Choose accommodation with screens in clothing with pyrethrin Impregnate „ „ „ „ „ „ „

fects include photosensitivity to (a tendency fects sunburn), thrush (in women), indigestion, with the heartburn, nausea and interference serious side effects pill. More contraceptive the oesophagus – you include ulceration of this by taking your tablet can help prevent and water, glass of with a meal and a large There are a variety of medications available. The available. medications a variety of are There and Paludrine the chloroquine of effectiveness in many parts of combination is now limited Common side effects include nau- South Asia. sea people) and mouth ulcers. (40% of spectrum antibiotic that has the added ben- tropical a variety of to prevent helping efit of diseases, including leptospirosis, tick-borne disease side ef- potential and typhus. The antimalaria medications. Most people who antimalaria medications. or no taking inadequate malaria are catch antimalarial medication. by takingbites these steps: puts you at risk. For most rural areas, the risk the risk areas, most rural at risk. For puts you the risk far outweighs malaria contracting of any tablet side effects. Before you travel, of seek advice on the right medical medication for you. and dosage The most mosquito. an infected of by the bite but malaria is fever, important symptom of diar- as headache, such symptoms, general Di- rhoea, cough may also occur. or chills, by takingagnosis can only be made a blood sample. and malaria – mosquito avoidance prevent

of Healthcare IN INDIA •• Availability

ease, there is an enormous amount of misin- is an enormous amount of ease, there You must get formation concerning malaria. expert advice as to whether your trip actually For such a serious deadly dis- For such and potentially die while another third will suffer permanent brain damage. Malaria cases occur in rural areas and vaccination is cases occur in rural areas spending more for travellers recommended is no There cities. than one month outside of people will infected and a third of treatment, common problem in affected countries. Most in affected common problem This viral disease by mosqui- is transmitted most mos- Like in travellers. toes is rare and diseasesquito-borne a more it is becoming Japanese B Encephalitis Japanese B Encephalitis or diabetes – vaccination is recommended for – vaccination is recommended or diabetes is no specific treat- these individuals. There and paracetamol. ment, just rest severe in people over the age of 65 or in those 65 or of the age in people over severe as heart diseasewith medical conditions such

Influenza in the tropics, influenza year-round Present muscle aches, (flu) symptoms include fever, throat. It can be runny nose, cough and sore

in medical facilities) and procedures such as such in medical facilities) and procedures HIV in India is tattoos. of The growth rate the highest in the world. one of HIV HIV body fluids. via contaminated is spread HIV needles sex, unsafe (including unsterile Avoid There is currently no vaccine, and preven- is currently There drinking eating and tion is by following safe guidelines. severe problem in pregnant women and can problem in pregnant severe and baby. both mother in the death of result water, hepatitis E has similar symptoms to hepatitis E has similar water, less common. It is a hepatitis A, but is far Hepatitis E through food and contaminated Transmitted cirrhosis. cirrhosis. can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis vaccination, hepatitis by can be prevented body fluids. The long-term by B is spread cancer and consequences can include liver Hepatitis B disease The only sexually transmitted that be vaccinated against hepatitis A. against be vaccinated for hepatitis A, you just need A, you for hepatitis for to allow time should to India All travellers to heal. the liver lonelyplanet.com HEALTH (such asmedicaland aidworkers and long- withthelocal population significant contact While TBisrare intravellers, whohave those Tuberculosis an STD check onyourreturn home. active sexually duringyourtravels,been have immediate medicalattention. Ifyouhaveseek lumps, discharge orpainwhenpassingurine, encounter anyrash,a sexual youdevelop chlamydia butnotwartsorherpes.Ifafter tion. Condomswillprevent and gonorrhoea often diseases havethese no signsof infec- andchlamydia.gonorrhoea People carrying mon inIndiaincludeherpes,warts,syphilis, mostcom- transmitted diseases Sexually STDs inmuch ofto obtain India. soon aspossible,andthisisalmostimpossible toreceivewill need rabiesimmunoglobulinas Ifyouareantiseptic. notprevaccinated you with soapandwater, andapplyiodine-based an animalbites you,gently washthewound the postbite treatment isgreatly simplified.If treatment. Having pretravel vaccinationmeans any animalbite andcommencepostexposure medicaladviceimmediately after should seek mal –mostcommonlyadogormonkey. You spread bythebite orlickof aninfected - from is disease rabies. Thisuniformlyfatal Around 30,000peopledieinIndiaeach year Rabies leaving theriskarea. risk areas. after Itmustbetaken foroneweek divers onshort tripstohigh- andforthose and headache. forscuba Itisthebesttablet uncommon andmild,mostcommonlynausea of atovaquone are andproguanil. Sideeffects the riskarea. aftermust betaken forfourweeks leaving and thirdtrimesters of pregnancy. Tablets Itis considered safeLariam. inthesecond logical disorders orepilepsyshould nottake history of depression, anxiety,otherpsycho- ety, psychosis andhaving fits.Anyonewitha areeffects rare butincludedepression, anxi- side suitsmanypeople. tablet Serious weekly press, some of itjustified,somenot.This leaving theriskarea. aftering it.Itmustbetaken forfour weeks lying downwithinhalfanhourofnever tak- 1186 The newdrug Lariam (mefloquine) Lariam NIDA • rvle’ irhe IN INDIA••Traveller’sDiarrhoea Malarone hasreceived much bad isacombination sage of more thanthree watery bowelactions you are etc. are, toget howquicklyyouneed better, where will dependonyoursituation–howsickyou with antibiotics.Treatment withantibiotics therefore responds promptlytotreatment (there are numerouspotential culprits),and traveller’s byabacteria iscaused diarrhoea of theirtrip.In over starting 80%of cases, fromitwithintwoweeks people willsuffer fecting travellers 30%and70%of –between This isbyfar the mostcommonproblem af- TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA with whatyoueatanddrink. not 100%effective, soyoumuststillbecareful aware thatvaccinationis inIndia. Be week all travellers whoare spendingmore thana antibiotics. Vaccination isrecommended for bybloodtestsIt isdiagnosed andtreated with andstomachcompanied byadrycough pain. progressive fever, headache, andmaybeac- via foodandwater. Itgives andslowly ahigh This serious bacterial infection isalsospread Typhoid sweatsandtiredness.loss, night The mainsymptomsare fever, weight cough, recommended pre- andpost-travel TBtesting. under theage of five, butadultsatriskare Vaccination isusuallyonlygiven tochildren term travellers) shouldtake precautions. feeling unwell. You should always seek reli-feeling unwell.Youshould alwaysseek and generally iefever, bloodydiarrhoea rhoea, labs. Symptomsare similar tobacterial diar- but isoften bypoor-quality misdiagnosed isvery dysentery rareAmoebic intravellers Amoebic Dysentery appropriate antibiotic. attention quicklyifyoudonotrespond toan medical a fever, orbloodinyourstools.Seek bus ride).Don’ttake loperamideifyouhave (egifyouhaveful, though togoonalong ofget tothecause theproblem.Itcanbehelp- bacteria quickly. ciprofloxacin orazithromycinwillkillthe best forthis.Antibioticssuch asnorfloxacin, rehydration solutionslike Gastrolyte are the or feeling generally unwell. vomiting tom, such asfever, cramps,nausea, within 24hours, plusatleastoneothersymp- Treatment consistsof wellhydrated; staying Traveller’s isdefinedasthepas- diarrhoea Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t Loperamide isjusta‘stopper’anddoesn’t lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 1187

(DAN; www Divers Alert Network Have a dive medical before you before medical a dive Have Dehydration is the main contributor to Dehydration is the main contributor to is a serious medical emergency. stroke Heat weakness, nausea, a hot dry body with a body confu- 41°C, dizziness, over of temperature coordination, fits, and eventually sion, loss of Seek consciousness. collapse and loss of medi- cal help and commence cooling by getting their the heat, removing out of the person clothes, fanning them and applying cool wet cramps by stopping activity, resting, rehydrat- cramps by stopping activity, resting, solution rehydration ing with double-strength stretching. and gently heat exhaustion. Symptoms include feeling irritability, nauseaweak, headache, or vom- iting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse and a normal or slightly elevated body temperature. the heat out of getting involves Treatment and applying and/or sun, fanning the sufferer skin, laying the sufferer to the cool wet cloths with flat with their legs raised and rehydrating salt containing per litre. of water ¼ teaspoon rapid and it is common to is usually Recovery weak for some days afterwards. feel Symptoms come on suddenly and include has been sitting in buffets. Peel all fruit, cook has been sitting in buffets. Peel for and soak salads in iodine water vegetables Eat at least 20 minutes. in busy restaurants p113 See customers. of with a high turnover eating. on safe for more Heat hot and humid India are parts of Many For most people it takes throughout the year. at least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. and ankles is common, as the feet Swelling of sweat- muscle cramps caused by excessive are these dehydration by avoiding ing. Prevent it easy activity in the heat. Take and excessive Don’t eat salt tablets arrive. when you first drinking rehydra- the gut); (they aggravate tion solution or eating salty food helps. Treat problems. Divers should ensure their insur- should ensure Divers problems. – illness for decompression them ance covers through insurance specialised an dive get as such organisation .danasiapacific.org). certain are home country – there your leave with incompatible that are medical conditions diving. Food risk factor Eating is the biggest in restaurants Ways to diarrhoea. for contracting traveller’s cooked eating only freshly it include avoid and food that shellfish avoiding food, and IN INDIA •• Environmental Hazards should not be used by pregnant women women should not be used by pregnant or those with thyroid problems. has a chemical your filter Ensure viruses. a small pore barrier such as iodine and eg less than four microns. size, watered down watered method of purifying it the seal is intact at purchase

It best chemical purifier is iodine. The out should also filter filters Water been – they may have juices fresh Avoid is the most efficient Boiling water – check is generally safe water Bottled ice Avoid Never drink tap water drink tap Never

„ „ „ „ „ „ DRINKING WATER WATER DRINKING „

tropical ear infections, as well as the standard tropical ear infections, advice before they travel to ensure their medi- to ensure they travel advice before for coral cuts and cal kit contains treatment Divers and surfers should seek specialised should and surfers Divers troubled by the pollution, leave the city for a the city for troubled by the pollution, leave air. fresh some days and get few Diving & Surfing also causes minor respiratory problems, such such problems, also causes minor respiratory eyes. If as sinusitis, dry throat and irritated speak with your doctor before travelling to any travelling speak with your doctor before This pollution urban centres. polluted heavily an increasing problem in most of India’s major India’s major in most of problem an increasing problems, respiratory severe cities. If you have Air Pollution Air Pollution is pollution, Air pollution, particularly vehicle treatment of choice is Tinidazole, with Metro- is Tinidazole, choice of treatment nidazole being a second-line option. ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS in travellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloat- in travellers. diar- ing, excess gas, fatigue and intermittent rhoea. will eventually if go away parasite The the months; but this can take left untreated best advice is to seek The medical treatment. Giardia is a parasite that is relatively common that is relatively Giardia is a parasite as liver or gut abscesses can occur. as liver Giardiasis site in your gut and then a second site drug to kill complications such the cysts. If left untreated able medical care if you have blood in your if you have able medical care two drugs: involves diarrhoea. Treatment to kill the para- or Metronidazole Tinidazole lonelyplanet.com HEALTH but theymay alsomaskwarning signs;severe controversial. Theycan reduce thesymptoms, the prevention of is theiruse AMS;however, sone are recommended bysomedoctors for or toenablefurtherascent. toavoidments should beused descent never 500mcanhelp.Drug treat- even is necessary; immediate however, become worse, descent taken forheadaches. Ifsymptomspersist or a dayortwo. Paracetamol oraspirincanbe altitude untilrecovery, which usually takes drowsiness andunconsciousness. confusion, irrationalbehaviour, vomiting, headache, lackof coordinationandbalance, production of pink,frothy sputum),severe (whichirritative mayprogress cough tothe vere symptomsincludebreathlessness, adry, severe Se- withoutwarningandcanbefatal. and lossof appetite. AMSmaybecomemore ache, sleeping lethargy, dizziness,difficulty three Mildsymptomsincludehead- weeks. 24 hours ataltitudebutmaybedelayedupto members of agroupwhosuccumb. tude sicknessanditisoften theyounger, fitter There isnowaytopredict whowillget alti- any symptomsthatcouldbealtituderelated. never in allgoodtrekking guides–andyoushould schedule suchacclimatisation ascanbefound too quickly–youshould followaconservative altitudesicknessisgoingtoohigh developing Sickness (AMS).Thebiggest riskfactorfor recognising andtreating Acute Mountain you shouldget informationonpreventing, If youare goingtoaltitudesabove 3000m, High Altitude demands of dailyworkinadifferent culture. rest,mental excessive alcohol intake andthe bytheclimate, inadequate andiscaused disease inthetropics.It’srarelyexpatriates based dueto pricklyheatpowdercanbehelpful. bought clog theskinsotheyshouldbeavoided. Locally by having coolshowers. Creams andointments into anair-conditioned area forafew hours and lumps. Treat itbymoving outof theheatand the skin.Theresult isanitchy rashof tiny bysweatbeingtrappedunder tropics, caused groin andarmpits. cloths oricetotheirbody,especiallythe 1188 Treat mild symptomsbyresting atthesame duringthefirstSymptoms usuallydevelop Tropical fatigueiscommoninlong-term The drugs acetazolamide anddexametha- The drugsacetazolamide Prickly heatisacommonskinrashinthe go to a higher altitudewhenyouhave gotoahigher NIDA • niomna aad IN INDIA••EnvironmentalHazards

ears, onthebellyandinarmpits.Ifyouhave areas. Ticks are commonlyfoundbehind the are usuallycontracted contact. fromsexual antilice shampoosuch aspyrethrin. Pubiclice numerousapplicationsofand youmayneed an infected totreat person. Theycanbedifficult area. withan contact Transmission isviaclose body butmostcommonlyyourheadandpubic Liceinhabitantihistamine. variouspartsof your to feed onyou.Youcantreat theitch withan and wallsthenmigrate tothebedatnight very itchy. Theylive inthecracksof furniture buttheirbites are don’tcarrydisease Bedbugs Insect Bites&Stings drugs. these AMShasoccurredand fatal inpeopletaking fect travellers. Thefirst occurs inmoistareas, There are twocommon fungalrashesthat af- Fungal rashes are commoninhumidclimates. Skin Problems take painkillers. main problem –applyicetothestingand emergency treatment. Forothers painisthe an injectionof adrenaline (eganEpipen)for orwasp allergy bee shouldcarry with aserious for peoplewhoare allergic tothem. Anyone bite tohelp prevent infection. toanyleech Apply aniodine-based antiseptic afterwards andcaneasilybecomeinfected. their bites are often itchy intensely forweeks but areas. They donottransmitanydisease Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases. adoctor.fever ormuscleaches, youshouldsee as arashatthesite of thebite orelsewhere, had atickbite andexperiencesymptomssuch

„ „ „ „ „ Avoid alcohol andsedatives. high-carbohydrate light, meals. Eat airis Drink extrafluids.Themountain ataloweral- tosleep It isalwayswise Ascend slowly–have frequent rest days, breathe. dry andcoldmoisture islostasyou than 300mperday. altitudebymoreto increase thesleeping above 3000m,care shouldbetaken not during theday,ifpossible. Also,once titude thanthegreatest reached height of 1000m. spending twotothree ateach nights rise Bee and wasp stings mainly cause problems andwasp stingsmainlycause Bee areLeeches foundinhumidrainforest Ticks are contracted after walkinginrural To prevent sickness: acute mountain lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 1189 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © travel to areas with Chloroquine-resistant with Chloroquine-resistant to areas travel Malaria is a high-risk disease Malaria for pregnant Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to Traveller’s Pregnant women should receive specialised receive women should Pregnant available. Birth control options may be lim- may be options Birth control available. your own supplies of so bring adequate ited, dehydration and result in inadequate blood in inadequate dehydration and result the drugs used of flow to the placenta. Many not rec- various diarrhoea bugs are to treat Azithromycin is ommended in pregnancy. safe. considered travel is in the second (between trimester 16 travel pregnancy- and 28 weeks), when the risk of is at its lowest and pregnant problems related at their best. Always feel women generally quality medical facilities avail- carry a list of you con- and ensure able at your destination at thesetinue your standard antenatal care with poor in areas rural travel facilities. Avoid transport and substandard medical facilities. insurance that your travel ensure all, Most of possibili- all pregnancy-related policy covers labour. ties, including premature that they do women, and WHO recommends not antimalar- effective the more None of malaria. in pregnancy. safe completely ial drugs are form of contraception. Heat, humidity and Heat, contraception. form of Treat- to thrush. all contribute antibiotics can and pessaries antifungal creams ment is with A practical alternative as clotrimazole. such (Diflucan). Fluconazole is a single tablet of precipitated can be infections Urinary tract without or long bus journeys by dehydration toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics. For gy- seeknaecological health issues, out a female doctor. The ideal time to travelling. advice before is also common – this is also common IN INDIA •• Women’s Health Tinea versicolor Tinea

Cuts and scratches become easily infected easily infected become Cuts and scratches

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. WOMEN’S HEALTH sanitaryIn most places in India, supplies of readily tampons) are products (pads, rarely 3000m. If you become sunburnt, stay out of 3000m. If you become sunburnt, stayof out apply cool recovered, the sun until you have for the dis- painkillers and take compresses comfort. One-percent hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily is also helpful. 2pm). You can get burnt very easily when you burnt very 2pm). You can get at high altitudes so be vigilant once above are and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying in the and sunglasses Avoid outdoors. to the day (10am part of sun during the hottest rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen (at (at rapidly. Always usestrong sunscreen a after to reapply sure least factor 30), making hat a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur can occur on a cloudy day sunburn Even as they become easily infected. Sunburn and redness), see a doctor. Divers and surfers and surfers Divers seeand redness), a doctor. with coral cuts, should be particularly careful wounds in clean water and apply antiseptic.wounds in clean water If pain (increasing infection you develop signs of in humid climates. Take meticulous care of of care meticulous Take in humid climates. complica- prevent to any cuts and scratches all wash as abscesses. Immediately tions such fungus causes small, light-coloured patches, fungus causes patches, small, light-coloured and shoul- on the back, chest most commonly a doctor. Consult ders. Lamisil. and is usually itchy. Treatment involves keep- involves Treatment itchy. and is usually and using chafing dry, avoiding ing the skin or as clotrimazole such cream an antifungal such as the groin, armpits and between groin, armpits as the such the spreads that slowly toes. patch It starts as a red lonelyplanet.com