Searching for Shangri-La (9 Days) We love road journeys. They are by far our favourite way of traveling. We think the world of western and the countries that border on this region – think Vietnam, Lao, Thailand, Myanmar, for example.

On the Road Experiences is all about sharing with like-minded travelers just how beautiful a road journey in these varied lands can be. Now turn the page to find out what we’ve come to love so much…

p2 p3 Itinerary Map …where you will travel… p. 006 Yes, it is possible… p. 008 Journey of Discovery… p. 010 Day-by-day… p. 054

In closing... Any car you like, so long as it is an SUV… p. 069 Adventures and discoveries in local cuisines p. 070 What’s included/Best Months to Go... p. 072

Photo credits p. 074 p5 Itinerary Map

Day1 Day6 Arrival in – In and around Deqin – Preparing for Your journey Exploring the foot hills of Meili Snow Mountain... Day2 Dali and Xizhou – Day7 To the heart of the Nanzhao Kingdom Deqin to Shangri-La – Across the Baima National Reserve Day3 to Shangri-La... Xizhou to Shaxi – Drive to Shaxi...a journey back in time Day8 Shangri-La to – Day4 On the back roads to Tiger Leaping Shaxi to Tacheng – Gorge... Along the Yangtse into the Three Parallel Rivers region Day9 Lijiang to Kunming – Day5 Life goes on... Tacheng to Deqin – Up and up to the edge of Tibet

p6 p7 Yes, it is possible...

A driving holiday in this part of the world is indeed possible. We take care of everything. All you need to do is come, drive and enjoy a rare adventure!

Searching for Shangri-La is a breathtakingly beautiful itinerary that will take you north from Kunming to some of the ’s less well- known treasures – Xizhou, Shaxi, Tacheng, and Deqin – all the way to the province’s Tibetan region which can lay a reasonable claim to being the home of James Hilton’s fictional Shangri-La!

All along this exciting route you will enjoy the best accommodation available – staying in some of Asia’s loveliest hotels – and travel through an area steeped in the cultures of many different ethnic minorities and through some of the region’s most stunning countryside.

On the Road Experiences has paved the way for you to cross borders in your own properly insured SUV, so that you can enjoy the romance of a classic overland journey without any of the logistical headaches that typically accompany such journeys...

p8 p9 p11 Awaking in China’s RURAL COUNTRYSIDE…”

Sunrise in Xizhou p13 Take a lake shore DRIVE and enjoy the BEAUTIFUL sunset reflections…”

Lake Erhai, Xizhou, near Dali p15 Stepping BACK in TIME...”

A Bai minority village near Shaxi p17p17 Explore SHAXI’s beautiful old town - much of which dates from the MING Dynasty...”

Beautiful old town of Shaxi p19p19 A small section of the ANCIENT TEA HORSE TRAIL…”

In Shaxi… p21 CHINA as in TIMES GONE BY...”

Cobbler and artist in Shaxi... p23 Your JOURNEY in the THREE PARALLEL RIVERS region...”

The ’s upper reaches p25 Lunch in THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE…”

In the Tacheng lodge p27 SLEEPING WELL while FAR AWAY from anywhere...”

In the Tacheng lodge p29 Visiting the CUTEST MONKEYS in the world…”

Yunnan Snub-Nosed monkeys p31 A colourful WELCOME as you APPROACH TIBET...”

Tibetan prayer flags p33 What a SUNRISE at the EDGE of TIBET …”

Kawagebo peak in the Meili Snow Mountain range p35 Wonderful HIKING, if you like, as a WAY TO RELAX…”

In the foot hills of Meili Snow Mountain p37 Along the way, one of the LARGEST MONASTERIES in SOUTH-WEST China…”

Shangri-La’s Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p39 RED-ROBED MONKS in Shangri-La...”

At the Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p41 A chance to PURIFY YOUR MIND?”

Prayer Session at Ganden Sumtseling Monastery p43 STUNNING LANDSCAPES on the way to LIJIANG…”

From a back road near Baishuitai p45 The … where the YANGTZE makes you TREMBLE!”

Tiger Leaping Gorge p47 LIJIANG is touristy, but there ARE HIDDEN GEMS to DISCOVER…”

Jade Lake not far from Lijiang...

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain seen from the Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang… p49 The lovely winding alleys of Lijiang’s old town are a UNESCO World Heritage site...”

Lijiang Old Town p51 Where DR. Joseph Rock lived and worked to INTRODUCE northwest YUNNAN to the outside word…”

Naxi minority lady in Yuhu, near Lijiang p53 p55 Day 1 Day 2 Tourism is now the mainstay of Dali’s economy, but in years Preparing for your To the heart of the gone by the city was the capital Driving Distance & Duration Driving Distance & Duration journey Nanzhao Kingdom of the Nanzhao Kingdom, which Distance: NA ruled a swathe of what is today Distance: 360 km Arrive in Kunming according to local restaurant near your Duration: NA On your first day, you will Yunnan Province and northern Duration: 4.5-5.5 hours th th your own arrangements. hotel and attend our staff’s drive to Dali and on to Xizhou, Burma between the 8 and 9 centuries AD. safety briefing. Elevation home of the Linden Centre – a Elevation lovingly converted Bai minority We will meet you at the airport Highest Daytime: 1850m From Dali it is only a short drive mansion, where you will stay Highest Daytime: 2000m and transfer you to your hotel. Dinner will be an opportunity to north to the Bai minority village Overnight: 1850m for the night. Overnight: 2000m If you require a temporary begin to acquaint yourself with of Xizhou…a hidden gem in the Chinese driving license, we the many flavours of Yunnan’s countryside. Hotel Today’s route is designed will take you to the hotel via cuisine and to meet your fellow Hotel the Vehicle Licensing Bureau. travellers. Green Lake Hotel (*****) to ease you into driving in Slowly, we’re sure, you will feel Linden Centre (****) All the documents for your mainland China…mostly on your workday stresses ebb as temporary license will be a wonderful highway that you ease into the rhythm of prepared; you will just need to allows us to gain distance from travelling. take a simple eye test and sign Kunming, the capital of Yunnan the forms. province. Yunnan has one of the best After settling into the hotel, road networks in China, as you may want to go for a stroll today’s drive will demonstrate. along the city-center Green After a relaxed start to the day Lake where many locals enjoy you will set out from Kunming relaxing hours. The vicinity of and drive along a world-class the lake bustles with people highway until you reach Dali young and old and throughout – formerly capital of Yunnan’s much of the year is lush green. Nanzhao Kingdom. Depending on the season, energetic migratory birds make The population of the region the lake their temporary home. around Dali is predominantly Bai minority and you will see In the evening, enjoy a group ladies wearing the traditional dinner together in a lovely, Bai headdress all over Dali. p57 Day 3 After driving up through the densely forested slopes of the Drive to Shaxi… a Cangshan mountain range and journey back in time then crossing a 3,000m mountain pass, you will descend into a Today’s destination is Shaxi, picturesque valley where times which lies just a short drive seems to have stopped and you from Xizhou, in a pretty valley on find yourself centuries back when the other side of the Cangshan the Tea Horse Road was in its Mountains that lie to the west of heyday as you drop down into a Dali and Lake Erhai. pretty valley. Driving Distance & Duration Soon after departing from the Shaxi itself is an incredibly well Linden Center you will turn preserved caravan town – spend Distance: 150 km the afternoon wandering its onto a small country road and Duration: 3.5-4 hours into another world, one that is cobbled streets and visiting local characterised by farming, sleepy craftsmen, drive out to see a small Elevation villages and people who live cave complex nearby or simply a way of life that seems to be relax at the hotel, a converted Highest Daytime: 3000m Ming dynasty coaching inn, and changing only very, very slowly… Overnight: 2000m imagine that you are about to set out on the long road to Lhasa… Hotel Landscape Hotel Shaxi (***)

p59 Day 4 come to what the Chinese hold further until you come to the and many fruit trees. The semi- 2000 can now be found in the Along the Yangtse into in high regard, the “first bend idyllic hamlet of Hada where, wild boars of the area, which wild. They live at the highest of the Yangtse” where, at a to your great surprise, you will feed on wild nuts before winter, altitude (3,000-4,500m) of any Driving Distance & Duration the Three Parallel town called Shigu, this mighty find a beautiful lodge set in one make the best ham in the world. primate, except for humans. Distance: 210 km river does, indeed, make a of Yunnan’s loveliest regions. Tacheng is also famous for its Rivers region… After arriving at the lodge Duration: 5 hours 150-degree turn and seemingly This lodge, in Tacheng county, rich Tibetan culture and Naxi in mid-afternoon, you will After about an hour and a half begins to flow uphill. is located between the Yangtse and Lisu villages with charming Elevation have time to enjoy the lodge’s of driving on the main road that and the Mekong, where some distinctive black-roofed surroundings and at least get Highest Daytime: 2000m leads from Yunnan to Tibet (the You will continue along of the best old-growth forests farmhouses. The rare species a glimpse of this wonderful Overnight: 2000m G214), you will turn left onto a the Yangtse in a broad, but in the world can be found. This of the Yunnan Golden Snub- region. small, but wonderful provincial gradually narrowing valley, region also harbors one of the nosed monkey (Rhinopithecus Hotel road that follows the course more or less level with the most fertile valleys in Yunnan biteti) is one of the world’s most Songtsam Lodge (****) of the Yangtse – called Golden river. In a tiny village called with two crops of rice annually endangered primates: less than Sand River in this region – Qi Zhong, you will turn west, northwest toward Tibet. After leaving the Yangtse behind, only a few minutes you will and drive a little distance

p61 Day 5 is home to a special Catholic Deqin is far from Lhasa, this Your hotel for the next two Note: This is the highest stop on Up and up to the edge church. A hundred years ago, region is nonetheless strongly nights, the High Mountain your journey with us. Please be imbued with Tibetan “flavours”, Resort, is conveniently located prepared to take everything more French missionaries traveled Driving Distance & Duration of Tibet… from the red-robed monks to near the Feilai Temple. The slowly to help your body adjust to over land to Sichuan into the Distance: 265 km the golden-roofed temples, views from here over the Meili the altitude – and ask us for details capital city of Chengdu. Further Duration: 5-6 hours Tacheng lies in between the ahead, was a gateway to the from the weather-beaten faces Snow mountain range are of what else you can do to prevent valley carved by the Yangtze vast heartland of Tibetan of the Tibetan people to the breathtaking. It is the perfect altitude sickness from impacting Elevation and that carved by the Mekong. Buddhism. Undaunted by the colourful prayer flags, from the place for a range of activities your holiday. Highest Daytime: 3600m Today’s drive begins by challenges ahead and eager white stupas that protect the the next day. Overnight: 3600m continuing in a westerly to spread the gospel, they region to robust houses that Hotel direction to the Mekong valley. ventured into the landlocked dot the landscape. High Mountain Resort, Deqin Once you arrive at the Mekong, valleys of western Sichuan and (****) you turn north-west and travel Yunnan province, spreading for the rest of the day along the their religion. A century hence, spectacular Mekong valley. the churches in these regions are still thriving. Cizhong Within only 250kilometers catholic church is probably the the road winds through most beautiful of these, even hugely differing landscapes: after many years of disrepair. ascending from low to high The architecture is a mixture altitude and from warmer to of East and West and some of colder climes, taking in Lisu the wall paintings and façades and Tibetan cultures, rice fields have survived the Cultural and buckwheat crops, and Revolution. More surprisingly, different styles of architecture, services in Tibetan language and with no industry, the are still held every Sunday! area’s natural beauty remains untouched. By mid-afternoon you will arrive in Deqin, Yunnan’s En route, you will come to the border town with the Tibet small village of Cizhong which Autonomous Region. While p63 Day 6 6,740 meters. Kawagebo Day 7 the main town of the Exploring the foot is the first of the six most Across the Baima Shangri-La region, in the sacred mountains in Tibetan Driving Distance & Duration early afternoon so as best Driving Distance & Duration Buddhism. to enjoy a visit to one of the hills of Meili Snow Distance: 0-50 km National Reserve to largest Tibetan monasteries Distance: 180 km Over 10,000 pilgrims make Duration: 0-2 hours Mountain… Shangri-la… outside of Tibet (the Ganden Duration: 3 hours the 240 kilometer trek around Deqin is situated at the foot Depends on your chosen activity Sumtseling) in the lovely the mountain each year. As of The scenic drive from Deqin of the Meili Snow Mountain to Shangri-La winds through afternoon light, bright and today, none of the major peaks Elevation Elevation Range which is remarkable sharp as it is at this altitude. have been scaled. Tibetan lush temperate and alpine Highest Daytime: 3900m for its impressive chain of Highest Daytime: 3600m forests with breathtaking Buddhists believe that Great For those who choose to book glaciated peaks more than Overnight: 3600m views over the Baima Pass Overnight: 3300m Spirits dwell in the mountains. the 7-day core itinerary, you 6,000 meters high. At sunrise at 4,292 meters. There is a will then drive to Shangr-La and sunset, the soft sunlight chorten (white stupa) at the You will have a whole day to Hotel airport where you will board Hotel illuminates all twenty peaks. pass with many prayer flags explore the area around Deqin. High Mountain Resort Deqin the short flight back to Songtsam Retreat Shangri-La placed by the faithful asking The Meili Snow Mountain What might you be in the Kunming. (****) for blessings. The Yangtze (*****) Range is a sub-range of the mood for? A gentle hike along drainage area lies on one side Hengduan Mountains which lovely mountain trails? A short lunch as the Tibetans eat it? A of the pass and the Mekong on run north to south, marking driving excursion to Feilaisi, a stroll through the border town the other. the boundary between Tibet small, but charming Tibetan of Deqin? We will be happy to and Yunnan. The main peak Buddhist temple? A visit to arrange any of these to fill your Baima National Reserve, a is Kawagebo, standing at a Tibetan house for a simple day with wonderful memories. UNESCO designated world heritage site, is one of the few truly wild places left in China. Nearly all of the world’s species of rhododendron originated from this area. There are even still a few spots where red pandas and snow leopards roam free. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains and forested valleys, it is indeed Shangri-La.

We aim to arrive in Zhongdian, p64 p65 Day 8 After lunch and a visit to the Day 9 Play golf at the Jade Dragon Tiger Leaping Gorge, you will Snow Mountain Course (one On the back roads to continue driving for another Driving Distance & Duration Life goes on… of the highest golf courses in Driving Distance & Duration Tiger Leaping Gorge… two hours to Lijiang, former Distance: 260 km the world, you will find that Depending on your plans capital of the ‘Naxi Kingdom’ Perhaps life must go on and the ball flies 20% further here Duration: 7 hours you have to return to Kunming due to the altitude) or visit the introduced to the West by Elevation Today’s drive starts with today. mountain itself. You can also eccentric American botanist Depending on your plans crossing a 3,800 meter pass on Elevation consider treating yourself to perfectly paved roads that wind and explorer Joseph Rock in Highest Daytime: 3800m On the other hand, if you Zhang Yi Mou’s Impressions their way south toward Tiger the 1930s and 40s. The cobbled have a bit more time…there Lijiang show that is set in Overnight: 2450m Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Leaping Gorge. The morning’s streets of Lijiang’s old town, a are many things to do in and an amphitheater with Jade range. scenery is spectacular and UNESCO World Heritage Site, around Lijiang, and we can Dragon Snow Mountain as the among the most untouched run alongside crystal clear Hotel make arrangements for you backdrop; on a sunny day, this Or you can visit the Jade Lake (Yuhu) village where Dr. along the entire journey. streams and up the steep InteCcontinetal Lijiang (*****) to extend your stay. Wander is an unforgettable experience. Joseph Rock, the explorer and slopes of Lion Hill, from where the streets of the maze-like (Zhang Yi Mou is the choreo- old town of Lijiang (a UNESCO grapher who arranged the botanist, had his residence, you can enjoy a wonderful view When you reach the Yangtze world heritage site), or visit opening ceremony of the now a small museum. And if the road narrows and hugs over Lijiang’s old town to 5,000 Lijiang, right by Lijiang’s Old Black Dragon Pool Park to see Beijing Olympics in 2008.) you do go to Yuhu, why not a bit the river cliffs as you approach meter tall Mount Saseto, Jade Town. For dinner, we will, for Lijiang’s most famous vista and of horseback riding? Tiger Leaping Gorge on a road Dragon Snow Mountain to the sure, go to the old town with learn about the enigmatic Naxi If you want to do a bit of dirt- The possibilities are practically inaccessible to anyone without Chinese. You will stay tonight its thousands of orange-red- minority. road driving, you can visit a wonderful lake high up in the endless… their own transport. at the excellent InterContinetal coloured lanterns.

p66 p67p67 Choice of Cars

We include in the package price good-and-bad-weather gear. an SUV we procure from Avis Also, they reinforce the feeling or Hertz or another reputable of adventure, exploration and car rental company. Most discovery…which is, in the of the SUVs are Toyotas, but end, the mood of journeys in on occasion Mitsubishis or this region, no matter how other brands may also make comfortable or even luxurious an appearance. For some the night’s hotel may be. itineraries, we are able to offer you an option to upgrade your What’s more, they offer car to the new models from sufficient clearance when Audi. required and thus add a sense of safety and all-round ability. We wish the car rental markets (4-wheel drive capability is of China would be more hardly needed in China these developed and we could give days since all roads are either you more choice, but this is not very well-paved or, with good so: since we want to provide gravel, offer solid support.) well-maintained and well- insured cars, the choice is And so SUVs from reputable rather limited. brands are our car of choice!

But SUVs are in fact the right choice for driving journeys in ANY car, this part of the world because they are spacious enough to as long as accommodate a lot of luggage, photography equipment, and it is an SUV” p68 p69 Adventures and Discoveries in Local Cuisines

While this itinerary is not one of Wine and beer is always our ‘Foodie’-themed journeys, included in our meals for you we do believe that each one of to enjoy. (When we travel into our journeys should introduce high-altitude, we suggest you not only to hidden gems of moderation!) cultural and scenic beauty, but that sampling local cuisines is Finally, if you have special also a must. dietary requirements are particularly interested in the Wherever you travel with us, culinary aspect of one of our we will order, with very few journeys, please let us know. exceptions, dishes fresh and on location with an emphasis For private journeys, we can, on local produce. It is not of course, tailor the meal uncommon for our guides to experience to your taste (and venture into the kitchen to pick budget). this, that or the other vegetable and to ask the cook to prepare them in the finest possible way. (On occasion we do pre- order a meal: this will normally be the case only for special occasions!)

p70 What’s Included / Best Months to Go...

Generally speaking, our journey packages and • Travel Insurance – 24-hour medical prices are all-inclusive. Once you’ve paid and assistance, evacuation and repatriation you arrive at the starting point, you really won’t emergency service provided by International have to take out your wallet again. SOS is included, as is cancellation insurance

• Cars – a modern SUV is provided for all • Tips & Entrance Fees – basic tips and driving days, expertly maintained and entrance fees for jointly attended activities serviced by Avis, Hertz, or other reputable are included car rental companies, and covered by the best insurance available, and hire car return • Activities, Meals, Transport during ‘free from Lijiang back to Kunming is also included times’ as indicated in this Journey Dossier • International Journey Host, Guide and • Top-up Collision Damage Waiver insurance Support Vehicle – you will be accompanied by a registered Chinese tour guide, an On the Road Experiences host and a fully equipped lead car with a local support driver What’s Not Included

• Routes – we provide an extensively The only items not included are your flights researched and carefully designed itinerary to and from Kunming, your China visa, and and state-of-the-art satellite navigation • Flight – Your flight from Lijang to Kunming Meals on non-driving days as specified above. personal purchases (e.g., gifts, souvenirs). system with a pre-programmed route for the Prepare for a culinary adventure! journey. You will also receive a detailed pre- • Airport Transfers – all airport transfers are • Goodies – you will enjoy an On the Road Home- departure pack and route book for the journey included Away-from-Home Kit containing wet towels, • Driving License – You will need a temporary • Hotels – the best available or five-star anti-bacterial gel and basic toiletries, and a Chinese driving license for which all accommodation is included in each overnight daily picnic basket containing fresh fruit, fruit arrangements and fees are included. stop juice, water, and a mixture of sweets and nibbles • Fuel & Tolls – we provide petrol for the car • Meals – breakfast (a choice of Western and • Other Essentials – we provide each car with throughout the journey and pay all tolls Local is provided), and lunch and dinner are walky-talkies included on all driving days, as are drinks. p72 p73p73 Photo Credits

© Alvin Lee – page 10 © Andy Wong – page 42 © Peter Schindler – Cover page, pages 3, 4, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 34, 36, 44, 48-49, 52, 56, 58-59, 60-61, 64, 68, 72, 73 © Ron Yue – pages 8, 22, 30, 32, 38, 40, 46, 50, 54, 57, 65, 66-67, 74, 77 © Songtsam Lodge Tacheng – pages 26, 28, 62 Unknown - pages 70-71

p74 p75 Contact Us

E-mail [email protected]

Main office Telephone: +852 3106 4839 Fax: +852 3012 1251

Overseas Taiwan: +886 978 317 465 +886 921 162 079 Australia: +61 2 8003 5317 Switzerland: +41 (44) 586 58 43 UK: +44 121 288 6879 Germany: +49 160 9622 2506

A picture is worth a thousand words. True, but when it comes to a road journey, moving images are priceless. Please visit : http://www.ontheroadexperiences.com/en/video-gallery” p76 p77