S R E T I S S
N E V E S
Wick Reservoir (West)
C
A
S
LT
D O O W E
Wick
A D OR R O Reservoir A L E D A E N S Stamford R A V D (East)
A M H U Hill R S T L P D I At the Heart of A R A N This walk follows the route of a medieval thoroughfare K O G R W
D O RG D O Hackney since 1967 through Upper and Lower Clapton and looks at the area’s O D OA K O W R E R N E O A E A L B K T fascinating horticultural history down the centuries. The walk D N B S E Y N A E E C V T C A T N O O R T AL R H R S G RL B H F I E A L D Y U A R O A D L starts at the beautifully landscaped parkland of Springfield R N N T E L S E N R DU I E W S B E H E D I O R C O W Park and ends at Sutton House, Hackney’s oldest domestic O A H W RING Hackney Walks No 12 W P D R S O O E 2 O building, where sculptor and landscape designer Daniel Lobb A U D N C 1 D L A Hackney Society Publication B East E V A st Manor E A P R Reservoir D T has created a garden for the 21 century. House R P O R T L A N O Y D U N S M N U R E R O A D Horticultural Clapton G R O C V O E M 1 Springfield Park
M
T R O A D EH O L N RHOL TA I L D
FA A I A D H O R E L D H G F I Springfield Park is a Grade II listed park, and its location on O L S P R I N Duration R A N 3 Springfield Park © Monica Blake N O
Stan way D T D S 1 R high ground sloping down to the River Lea provides fine views E RS West R D M 2 O L Y N M O U T H R O A D 1 / hours E LK L A O O T F A W AD U Reservoir A S B over Walthamstow Marshes and the Lee Valley Regional Park. It H D N T S R O M S E A T SI O B LD A and highway development. Following a public petition
A R O A D P T Z T K I R I O L has a wide variety of habitats including woodland, meadowland, L S N
A S Distance EN E M E N V L A in 1872, what remained of the Common was protected E E O S U SE R A orchard and natural springs from which the park derives its Q V E
G R O N
D I C K W T 2 miles R
E S WA from development in perpetuity and its maintenance
H DRIV D L
A name. It boasts a remarkable range of mature trees. As well as R I A E O Stoke
ST P E D N C R O A
OU Newington R passed first to the LCC and then to LB Hackney. L N E
G O R V E O
T O N native British species, including the rare Native Black Poplar, R E Z D E A A D L B C K A A L R D A A O O Buses: O th P U it has varieties of trees from across the world as well as relics Y O AK LEY R R 4 In the latter half of the 18 century residences for V SHIP D E E R N Q O Q U E R L N U O LL 253, 254 I ASANT HI E Y LEE of prehistoric times such as the Gingko Biloba and the Dawn E T P E N RD UNT city merchants and bankers began to be built around K S A MO S R N T ROO E W I ZEB R O E A D N Train: D GR A O L U Redwood or Fossil Tree. L B R L the Common. Craven Lodge, at the northern edge D I A D A E I O B V Z A R E B F L F O R C E B S O A A R D Clapton ROAD E T O C D of the Common, was the most imposing residence. L Clapton K O D H © O The Park’s 15 hectares were formed from the grounds of three S W ad S H Station R O A D WO S CE R T ld ro T S A GARNHAM T O o L N N thw
RR R O u A Dating from the 1820s, it stood on the 70-acre estate O WN E M So O T EE
WR M C BR IP O H S C private houses of which only Grade II listed Springfield House
K S T N T O RD O E T
L D G N T O IN R U M A of merchant John Craven surrounded by extensive
E F E CE K W
E E U R E
S BL S P (otherwise known as White Lodge) has survived and now serves R T N
S O E P O N K E E 5 H O
A C E Y pleasure grounds laid out in the style of Humphrey GS T R
U R O R H W D O N C S T G R O A D as a cafe and exhibition space for the work of local artists.
VE I E
RO N R O O K C N B T G R I D R O B L UN A A A R O
D O G O AO Repton and Capability Brown, with lakes, bridges and MO W R K A D E E T R P
O D
O D T N NASTON L A D A O
N E KY E O LC N When the land was put up for sale in 1902, a local campaign
ER a folly tower. Remarkably the folly tower survived
K R
W S H
O E N
A G T A S I N
SI L D R G N S C O R N I I R B B L L I V O
H T R successfully lobbied the municipal authority to acquire the I A the break-up of the estate in the 1880s and can still OS Rectory E O D ROAD
O O S V O E E N G
T Road ID YR 6 R
L O R R B K
R A A E land for a public park which was opened in 1905. Designed
E be found at the rear of 130 Clapton Common. Now D L
O R E D D
GHALL ROA T NNIN A E D A O A K
R OR D D d O oa by the Chief Officer of the London County Council (LCC) completely covered in creeper, it is Grade II listed. R L A P 7 ite A O a O ew D stl D W hi W T
E Parks Department J.J. Sexby, the Park combined landscaped oad L E k R L
S ic In 1833 the area had its own Horticultural Society and A D R w S E R O
T M A N R Ne d parkland and formal gardens with recreational facilities such C a O o O R L ll RO A D I S A a S by 1850 there were almost 300 members who gathered S K O A D Clapton h D O R R D en E L N E C Ponds ld I L E Y D F as a bowling green and boating lake. Today the Park also D S 8 Mi L L C A M L R E S C E N T H MI N U R S T A for three shows each summer in the grounds of Craven D D P R E A U incorporates an urban market garden run by social enterprise A W A L F O R D R O F R T S AD A D W O O H
U O A M O L D R O A D O R
E D D O W N S R O Lodge or at the house of Josiah Wilson on Stamford I
R O N 9 R N
R O N E
A N A A D Growing CommunitiesPI which grows produce for a community
M R
D O L L
R G A
G U D I B e
L B G Hill. The Montefiore family, who also had a residence
R T lac
I FARLEIGH ROAD
E P O
O fruit and veg box scheme. An application to English Heritage for E
I P
N A D E W N Laura O
F R E
at Stamford Hill, gave support to such local initiatives, N D
L
R O
R
T d W A
a D R o O T D E H ill R funds to make improvementsR to the Park and restore it to its
L wh A
A S D o E R E
O d
A R O D t R R t and Nathan Montefiore is quoted as saying that he o R K
N A sc
T W n O Li T OR D GR OVE C F former glory is being made by Hackney Council. E D ER F O SOM O O R S I A N C R S
was always glad to see both Jews and Christians join R D R
T E D
R C W H
P O A
O E
d O R a Y
A N
n Road o R D N OA A O together in a flower show as flowers ‘taught a lesson to A R R E R T O E
D ulto C OM
LA H K m
Go r N W
L C a DU D A n
le 2 Clapton Common
L L G D
I A
D L
A
D A N E
N U R O A D E R G R O V E W A many, by blooming equally surely in the houses of men of S RK B
T T A DI E G E PA E SQ M
S ON ME E RR C N L S M A T T H A W N PT I A B N
N S A
R S DO L
O K E G
A D C C E N N
E
E C C
A L
Clapton Common is a remnantY of the medievalI L E common land all creeds’.
E A K I R
W A E L E H M Y R O O I
N A
I S D R
R A A Y
D C
N H O
R B O
D formerly known as Broad Common. Because it is rare that this N O A
G T O N U O R G U A R T N
R P O D S W O Charles Dickens mentioned the gardens of Clapton
B R H A S O K E T L R V O A T MBUR C S S I ancient common has survived in an inner city borough, Clapton L S D L W A
G R R L A M I E E B I N E E L D M A O V Y H E D Y D O C and Stamford Hill in Sketches by Boz: ‘If the regular city H A A P W I Y RO D G R S H Y A R O N N GHAM O C N S D R I O W D L I M L N CommonT wasW A designated a Conservation Area by LB Hackney A D SA R AR O K E E A
S L A N R D A L S T O N O M M R H T
R O L K O T man who leaves Lloyds at five o’clock and drives home E A A D R R D A in 1969. D Canonbury N Hackney M L E T K P E E RE M N T S CENT TO S E
N E C RE Downs H SUT to Hackney,N Clapton, Stamford Hill or elsewhere can be
E S T O M
R U A
E N E A V
L R H T R
C R T G U ON I
J O O O
Y U S H W R TREET C th th DE S T S A
P S
H O R T O N D M E During the 18 O and 19 centuries the original BroadE Common L O said to have a daily recreation beyond his dinner, it is his
D R
To Highbury G R E E A P
10 R A O S
A C
R
N ST T
O A T
& Islington O
S Y T T D C BARN
K R R D Y A A E R G was reduced in size as sections were given over to residential E garden. He never does anything to it with his own hands
I H
Y G MABL O O
N W Dalston S S B G R B Y Y
T
I N S O R
Kingsland A R L A N E S BU A
B Hackney R N E R V A W E D SU NE O A G R Central E E N Homerton U O R R A INGS NI D O O W T R R O A D N I D R AS S E T T D B K A H C O H O E N D A O R R D E S T M MO A R O ST ER P A HA V E D K L A U L S R O A D B A A Y L L S L A N E S S T O N GR S M A H T P A L H O N D D R O A I
D R R RO W A Y BE P O N O WI L T E
A R S K EC R O A D R W I C K A R
E AO H
W H K I HW O B D I
O M C P K E A
T N R O A D O M T T E RR N L D H A O D D M B
R O O A E C A D G O OA A Y AG R R R
D M L R N H R B S N E E U Q R
P O E C S PA A D R A R LA R D
OA D P E
L E K N THAM E S T CE M E Hackney ROAD AN L E B D A
D G N A
A Y R T N N E O O T O R S NL R Wick DI R E O D A DA A
N N E D E RD C O R E T E R R D IN R A S T R O A D R NT O K D E A A F OR LE O T R A VA D R S O
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T SO UT A H E LD G ON STR S EE P T O H Liverpool L I S Street V E R P O O I L S B T RE E T Clapton Common c.1903 © Hackney Archives Sir Hugh Low Cedar of Lebanon tree, Upper Clapton Road,1904 © Hackney Archives but he takes a great deal of delight in it notwithstanding, garden of Cedar Lodge which achieved notoriety when it became expeditions for the Clapton nursery ended when he and if you are desirous of paying your attention to his the residence of the Reverend John Smyth-Pigott, leader of the embarked upon a career in colonial administration, youngest daughter, be sure to be in raptures over every Agapemonite sect who built the church in Rookwood Road to although in1851 he made the first successful attempt flower and shrub it contains.’ the north of Clapton Common. In 1956 the poet John Betjeman on the summit of Mount Kinabalu in northeast Borneo visited Clapton to view the deserted Agapemonite Church and where he collected many interesting and extraordinary Throughout the 20th century the houses of the gentry wrote in The Spectator: ‘With a son of Smyth-Pigott I went to find plants, including the magnificent carnivorous pitcher in their large garden plots were almost all replaced where his father had lived. Only a cedar tree remained.’ plants, one species of which is named after him. by large blocks of public housing built by the LCC and Low’s nursery, with its four acres devoted to green Hackney Council. This continues until the present day, 4 Low & Company Nursery with 98 Clapton Common, one of only two surviving and hot houses and ranges of glass houses, each detached Georgian houses overlooking the Common, Low & Company was a leading English nursery specialising about a hundred feet in length, was at the forefront demolished by its owners in 2014. At the end of the in orchids and other tropical plants. Established in the early of horticultural development in East London and th 19th century the house was acquired by Frederick 19 century by Scots horticulturalist John Bain Mackay, the was described in The Gardeners’ Magazine as a Janson Hanbury of the pharmaceuticals company company was taken over by its foreman and propagator Hugh ‘plant manufactory’. Low in 1831 and continued at the Clapton site until it relocated Allen and Hanbury. Hanbury was a renowned botanist When Low’s nursery was established at the beginning of to Enfield in the 1880s. The nursery supplied the Royal Botanic in his own right with a large collection of plants. He the 19th century Clapton still retained much of its original Gardens Kew with seeds and cuttings and was in regular created a fine example of a Victorian rock garden rural character. By the 1860s, although there was still while living at Clapton Common which featured in correspondence with Kew’s Director Sir William Hooker. evidence of the former agricultural and market garden contemporary gardening journals. Hanbury authored A number of celebrated Victorian plant hunters were employed economy, the north of Millfields had been given over to a number of scholarly works including the London by the company to source exotic plants. They included William brick earth extraction. This was normally a prelude to Catalogue of British Plants (published 1895) and Flora Baxter, James Anderson and Friedrich Carl Lehmann. Hugh building development in that it left the land in such poor of Kent (published 1899). Low’s eldest son, also named Hugh, spent two years assisting condition that it could not revert to agriculture. And so it Two areas classified as London Squares lie within the his father at Clapton before embarking upon an expedition to proved, with a rapid increase in residential development Clapton Common Conservation Area, protected under collect plants for the nursery in 1844. in the period 1870 to the end of the century, driven by the coming of the railway and a regular horse-tram service. The London Squares Preservation Act of 1931. They The young Hugh travelled extensively in north Borneo and he are the grassed enclosures in front of Clapton Terrace was probably the first person to collect orchids in Sarawak, 5 Owen C Greenwood and other and Buccleuch House. surviving encounters with pirates and headhunters along the gardening enterprises way. In 1847 he returned to England where his book Sarawak; 3 The ancient Cedar of Lebanon Its Inhabitants and Productions was published in 1848. The book As the Victorian era progressed, establishments The Cedar of Lebanon tree at the junction of Upper was the first comprehensive survey of the natural history and catering for Clapton’s gentlemen gardeners in their Clapton Road and Springfield was a mature tree when ethnology of the Sarawak region and served as a standard work suburban villas were much in evidence. Owen C Nelson won the battle of Trafalgar. It was part of the of reference for half a century. However Hugh’s plant-collecting Greenwood’s florists and garden contractors at 27 Owen C Greenwood horse-drawn delivery van c.1910 © Hackney Archives Brooke House gardens c. 1920-30 © Hackney Archives Giant Hogweed in the Gaviller Garden 1912 © Hackney Archives
Upper Clapton Road had a large fountain as its 6 Brooke House 7 J Haws Watering Can Factory centrepiece and a display of tall and exotic ferns. On the site now occupied by B6 College once stood a large On the right hand side of the road is the former Clapton Greenwood’s was a flourishing business which aristocratic residence built around two courtyards with an oak- Cinematograph Theatre built in 1910 adjacent to Grade not only catered for local events such as weddings II listed St James’s Church. Next to the Church is the panelled gallery some 174 feet long, a private chapel decorated and funerals but supplied flowers to London site of the former J Haws watering can factory, since with wall paintings, and surrounded by extensive gardens and theatres. The firm’s horse-drawn delivery vehicle developed as a block of flats. In 1886 retired colonial orchards with dovecots, stables, barns for the storage of corn pulled by two immaculately groomed horses was a civil servant John Haws obtained a patent for the design and a brewhouse. The first known occupant of the house was common sight in and around Clapton. When Owen of his watering pot. His claim was that C Greenwood died in 1936 the business was taken the Earl of Northumberland but it is thought that the house over by his son Stanley Fielder Greenwood. dated from the last quarter of the 15th century. In January 1535 ‘this new invention forms a Watering Pot that is much easier to carry, and tip and at the same time being much In 1865 tulips were a speciality of a nursery the house was passed by Northumberland to King Henry VIII cleaner and more adapted for use than any other put run by James Batten in Brook Street (renamed and became known as King’s Place. Following the death of King before the public’. Northwold Road). Brook Street was also the site of Henry in 1547, the house passed through the hands of various an establishment run by Mr George Curry whose members of the gentry, including Edward de Vere, the Earl of While working in the Colonial Service in Mauritius, garden furniture and baskets were featured in Oxford to whom some attribute the authorship of Shakespeare’s Haws’ hobby of growing vanilla plants had brought to his the book Rustic Adornments for Homes of Taste by plays. On purchase of the property by Fulke Greville, 1st Baron attention the deficiencies of the French style of watering Victorian gardening writer and journalist Shirley Brooke, in 1621 it became known as Brooke House. The cans, with their continuous front to back handles. On Hibberd who lived in nearby Stoke Newington. In extensive gardens of Brooke House were visited by celebrated his return to England he set about designing a better Hibberd’s bestselling book published in 1856 he was diarists Samuel Pepys and John Evelyn. Evelyn wrote in his diary watering can and in 1886 he opened a factory at 227 lavish in his praise of Mr Curry’s skills: on 8 May 1654 ‘I went to see Lady Brook’s garden which was Lower Clapton Road. London was expanding rapidly, and on the outskirts of the metropolis the Lee Valley ‘Mr Curry’s rustic chairs and baskets are as superior one of the neatest and most celebrated in England’. The visit by from the majority of such productions as might Pepys took place on June 25 1666. His diary entry recorded that was developing into a centre for large nurseries with extensive glasshouses to feed the capital’s population. be expected from one whose hobby and passion is it was in the Brooke House garden that he first saw oranges There was, therefore, an increasing need for watering ferngrowing and who devotes much enthusiasm to growing and he ‘pulled off a little one by stealth and ate it’. the stocking of stumps and baskets with rare and pots, or watering cans as they came to be known, which beautiful plants, as he does to the mere carpentry The house ceased to be an aristocratic residence in 1677 and in could be easily used for watering plants on greenhouse of their formation. His rustic arbours and bark the 18th century it became a ‘receptacle for insane persons’. The shelves and benches, and for perforated roses for the houses are of admirable designs and he fits up bark building continued as an asylum until 1940 but, following bomb watering of small plants, delicate seedlings and newly baskets and tree stumps in a manner most tasteful damage during World War II, it was demolished by Hackney sown seeds. In 1911 the Haws can was awarded the and bewitching.’ Council in 1954. Royal Horticultural Society’s Banksian Medal. The of the atmosphere of a Tudor home, despite later alterations to accommodate Huguenot silk weavers, boarding schools, a church institute and a trade union. Left vacant in the early 1980s, the house was squatted, but following an energetic campaign by local residents the house was restored by the National Trust and opened to the public in 1994. What was formerly the site of a car breaker’s yard at the side of Sutton House has been converted by sculptor and landscape designer Daniel Lobb, in collaboration with the children’s learning initiative the House of Fairy Tales, into a garden for the 21st century. Converted Pond House garden, 1880 © Hackney Archives Breaker’s Yard Garden, Sutton House © Clare Matheson recycled vehicles provide a focus for the garden and plant pots, tables and stools are made from tyres; small company continues to flourish from a factory in the restored, including the elegant bow windows to the withdrawing trees sprout from tractor wheels and a two-storey West Midlands and the essential features of Haws’ room overlooking the gardens to the rear of the house. In 1809 caravan called The Grange is the centrepiece of the design have remained unchanged to the present day. the garden was much more extensive than it is today. It had a wall garden. Its interior miniaturises the décor of a historic of fruit trees which ran for 640ft and a melon ground, seed house stately home, with a Grecian bust, mirrors, chandelier 8 Clapton Pond and Pond House and tool house. Two cows were kept in the grounds to the rear and fireplace. The ceiling frame is made from Victorian which provided milk for the residents. However the garden was plasterwork found in a salvage yard and there is an oak- On the left hand side of the road are the gardens of carved family crest obtained from a car boot sale. Clapton Pond. Clapton Pond is said to have been dug much reduced when Mildenhall Road was built at the end of the th in the early 1600s during the reign of King James 19 century. Details of Sutton House’s I for the purpose of a domestic water supply and opening hours can be watering hole for livestock and horses. The Pond was 9 The Gaviller Garden found at http://www. used as a reservoir during the 18th century but by the Brothers Augustine and William Gaviller lived at 183 Lower nationaltrust.org.uk/ J Haws late 19th century had become neglected and there Clapton Road at the beginning of the 20th century. The Gaviller sutton-house/ Watering Can was a plan to drain it and fill it in. However on being family had a long association with the sugar-refining business acquired by Hackney Vestry in 1898 it was converted and the occupation of Augustine Gaviller was listed as West into public gardens, and re-landscaped with flower India Merchant. His brother William was a keen gardener and Text by Julia L afferty beds and new trees to a pattern which largely survives shortly before his death in 1912 he commissioned a professional Edited by Monica Blake to the present day. The cluster of historic buildings photographer to record the garden and the principal rooms of Photographs courtesy of Monica Blake, Hackney Archives and around Clapton Pond makes up the Clapton Pond the house. These are the earliest colour photographs of any Clare Matheson Conservation Area and includes the 17th-century Hackney subject in existence. Graphic Design by [email protected] Bishop Wood Almshouses, two fine Georgian town The Hackney Society is the borough’s civic and amenity society. The photographs of the Gaviller garden demonstrate an houses and Pond House. For further information log on to www.hackneysociety.org, email enthusiasm for exotic plants, including the Giant Hogweed. Pond House dates from the beginning of the 19th [email protected], or write to us at The Round Chapel, Although an impressive sight when fully grown, Giant Hogweed 1d Glenarm Road, London E5 OLY. century when Clapton was a fashionable place of is invasive and potentially harmful as chemicals in the sap can residence for city merchants and bankers. The building Other walks are available in the series. cause skin blistering and permanent scarring. It is thought that is considered to be one of the finest examples of late Generously funded by Discover Hackney. that the Gavillers’ fondness for this plant may have resulted in its Georgian domestic architecture in Hackney and has a eventual migration to the banks of the River Lea. Grade II* listing. During the course of the 20th century Pond House suffered such neglect that it was placed on 10 Sutton House and the Breaker’s Yard Garden English Heritage’s Heritage at Risk register. Following acquisition by One Housing Group at the beginning of Built in 1535 by Sir Ralph Sadleir, a prominent courtier and the 21st century, many of its original features have been diplomat in the time of Henry VIII, Sutton House retains much www.hackneysociety.org