e) in Welcome to

) Barcelona is an enchanting seaside city with n boundless culture, fabled architecture and a world-class drinking and dining scene. This combination plus a harder-to-defi ne magic in the air makes it one of the world’s greatest cities. Barcelona’s architectural treasures span millennia. BARCELONA Towering temple columns, ancient city walls and TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES subterranean stone corridors provide a window into Roman-era Barcino. Fast forward a thousand years or so to the Middle Ages by taking a stroll through the shadowy lanes of the Gothic quarter, past tranquil plazas and soaring 14th-century cathedrals. In other parts of town bloom the sculptural masterpieces of Modernisme, a mix of ingenious and whimsical creations by Gaudí and his Catalan architectural contemporaries. The Sagrada Família, still under construction, is already one of the planet’s most sublime buildings. Barcelona has long inspired artists too, including Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró, whose works are on bold display in the city’s myriad museums. Art of another sort adorns the groaning bar-tops and stylish plates of Barcelona’s tapas bars and avant-garde restaurants. Catalan cooking blends the tradition of using flavourful, market-fresh ingredients, with a hint of French savoir faire and a modern twist of molecular wizardry. Add this to lazy days on the beach, paddling or cruising the deep blue sea, strolling into classy boutiques and quaffing sessions in sociable vermouth bars, and you have just a fraction of the intoxicating cornucopia that is Barcelona.

Barcelona is an enchanting seaside city with boundless Andy Symington culture, fabled architecture, and a world-class drinking and dining scene.

Plaça d’Espanya ELOI_OMELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Tibidabo 02km D e# Mountain 01miles (1km) Gràcia & Park Güell Park Güell #÷ Gaudi’s fairy-tale woodland park and NA Recinte Modernista #æ ARCELO the intriguing district Contents B de Sant Pau Gràcia & Parkof Gràcia, Güell full of barrio life, await exploration. # Plan Your Trip Dining Out ...... 129 Sho (Map p254) Camp Nou, This Year in Barcelona ...... 4 The Best ...... 132 The & La La Rambla & Barri Gòtic ...... 134 La Sagrada Hotspots For ...... 18 La R Zona Alta ...... 137 Família Top Days in Barcelona ...... 20 El Ra A medieval monastery, Ü# ...... 139 Need to Know ...... 28 La R an intriguing museum Barceloneta, the La Ribera What’s New ...... 30 Barc and loftyCamp Nou, – Pedrables Waterfront & ...... 140 For Free ...... 31 Wate all capped by& football La Zona Alta # The trendiest part of L’ ...... 143 Family Travel ...... 32 L’Eix thrill at Camp Nou. the old town, with first- Montjuïc, Poble rate tapas, medieval Mon #þ Sec & Sant Antoni ...... 145 Quadrat d'Or  Sec Museu-Monestir architecture and a La Ribera  Gràcia & Park Güell ...... 147 #æ Top Experiences ...... 35 de Pedralbes #æLa Pedrera stunning Modernista  Camp Nou, Pedralbes Gràc  La Sagrada Família ...... 36 concert hall. (Map p250) & La Zona Alta ...... 149 Cam La Rambla ...... 42 Passeig & La de Gràcia £# Barcelona’s Food Markets ...... 48 L’Eixample #æ Casa Batlló ...... 52 Treasure Hunt ...... 151 # Palau de Act ModernismeLa Sagrada rules in Família Casa Museu Nacional The Best ...... 154 the city’s 19th-century Batlló la Música & L'Eixample # d’Art de Catalunya ...... 56 La Rambla & Barri Gòtic ...... 156 The ‘extension’, replete with Catalana #æ #ú La Ribera Fundació Joan Miró ...... 60 El Raval ...... 158 Activ masterpeices by Gaude La Catedral ...... 64 La Ribera ...... 159 Spec and others (Map p254) Museu Frederic Marès â# #ú Park Güell ...... 68 Barceloneta, the â# El Born Cou  La Catedral Ü# â# Ü#Basílica de Santa Camp Nou ...... 72 Waterfront & El Poblenou ...... 160 To u r  â#  MACBA Museu Maria del Mar La Pedrera ...... 76 L’Eixample ...... 161  #æ # Montjuïc, Poble #æCamp Nou Mercat de la Boqueria d'Història # Museu Picasso ...... 80 Estació Sec & Sant Antoni ...... 164 Res La Rambla #æ de Barcelona Walking Tour: Gràcia & Park Güell ...... 164 Acco £# V# Hidden Treasures in the Barri Gòtic ..... 86 El Raval # Palau BarcelonetaBarceloneta & Barcelona’s Waterfront ...... 88 Camp Nou, Pedralbes Acce A once-seedy area Güell thethe Waterfront Waterfront & Palau Güell ...... 92 & La Zona Alta ...... 168 Whe that’s now home El Poblenou Outside the Centre ...... 169 Barcelona's â# MACBA ...... 94 to cutting-edge El Raval # Waterfront Pretty beaches, a Tibidabo Mountain ...... 96 museums, and waterfront promenade Museu-Monestir de Pedralbes ...... 102 Bar Open ...... 171 bohemian bars and and bountiful seafood Palau de la Música Catalana ...... 106 The Best ...... 174 eateries. (Map p249) Fundació make for a memorable Foodie Trails in La Ribera ...... 108 La Rambla & Barri Gòtic ...... 176 Joan Miró day on the Mediterranean. Museu d’Història El Raval ...... 177 â# Museu Nacional d'Art â# Port de Barcelona ...... 112 La Ribera ...... 179 Vell Mediterranean  Basílica de Santa de Catalunya (MNAC) Sea Barceloneta, the  Exploring Maria del Mar ...... 116  #æ Waterfront & El Poblenou ...... 180 Montjuïc Recinte Modernista La Rambla & L’Eixample ...... 182 de Sant Pau ...... 120 Barri Gòtic Montjuïc, Poble Montjuïc, Peble Sec Museu Frederic Marès ...... 122 Sec & Sant Antoni ...... 186 Montjuïc,& Sant Antoni Poble Sec Stroll Barcelona’s Walking Tour: Gràcia & Park Güell ...... 189 famous boulevard,La Rambla & Home& Sant to manicured Antoni More Modernisme in L’Eixample ..... 124 Camp Nou, Pedralbes  then lose yourself inBarri Gòtic parks, excellent Gardens of Montjuïc ...... 126 & La Zona Alta ...... 191  the Gothic quarter. museums and cinematic  (Map p250) city views. (Map p256)     

000-tip-in-bo-bar4.indd0-tip-in-bo-bar4.indd 2 221/05/20191/05/2019 112:35:262:35:26 PPMM PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 * 29 Showtime ...... 193 132 The Best ...... 195 In Focus 134 La Rambla & Barri Gòtic ...... 196 Barcelona Today ...... 220 137 El Raval ...... 197 History ...... 222 139 La Ribera ...... 198 Architecture ...... 227 Barceloneta, the Modern Art ...... 230 140 Waterfront & El Poblenou ...... 199 Catalan Culture ...... 232 143 L’Eixample ...... 200 145 Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni ...... 201 147 Survival Guide Gràcia & Park Güell ...... 202 Directory A–Z ...... 236 149 Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta ...... 203 Transport ...... 239 Language ...... 242 151 Behind the Scenes ...... 243 Active Barcelona ...... 205 154 Index ...... 244 156 The Best ...... 207 158 Activities ...... 208 159 Spectator Sports ...... 209 Courses ...... 210 Map Section 160 Tours ...... 210 Barcelona Maps ...... 248 161 Symbols & Map Keys ...... 257 164 Rest Your Head ...... 213 164 Accommodation Types ...... 216 Accessible Travel ...... 216 168 Where to Stay ...... 217 169

171 174 176 177 179

180 182

186 189 FACING PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: LUKASZ SZWAJ/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/GETTY IMAGES ©; JÜRGEN WIESLER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©; NIKADA/GETTY IMAGES©; IAKOV 191 FILIMONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LOOK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©; ANA CANDIDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; CHRISTIAN BERTRAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Barcelona There’s always something happening in Barcelona. Traditional fiestas maintain their riotous blend of popular religion, devil-may-care revelry and time-honoured customs. Meanwhile, concerts, festivals and modern celebrations keep things ticking right through the year.

Clockwise from left: Festes de Santa Eulàlia (p7); Festa Major de Gràcia (p13); Festival del Grec (p12); Festes de la Mercè (p14)

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01 January Barcelonins head to the Pyrenees for z Festes dels action on the ski slopes, while others Tres Tombs 17 Jan simply enjoy a bit of post-holiday In addition to live music and gegants downtime (school holidays go to (papier mâché giants worn over the around 8 January). shoulders of processionists), the festival dedicated to Sant Antoni 3 Gran Gala Flamenc 1 Jan features a parade of horse-drawn carts Bringing in the New Year in style, this in the neighbourhood of Sant Antoni major flamenco performance at the Palau (near the Mercat de Sant Antoni). de la Música Catalana (p106 ) features

the acclaimed guitarist and composer DAVEWALSHPHOTO.COM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © Chicuelo along with other top musicians and performers.

z Reis (Reyes) 5 Jan On 5 January, the day before Epifanía (Epiphany), children delight in the Cavalcada dels Reis Mags (Parade of the Three Kings; pictured above), a colourful parade of floats and music, spreading bonhomie and boiled sweets in equal measure.

1 Éluard y Picasso to 23 Feb This exhibition at the Museu Picasso (p80 ) who was a significant source of emotional explores the friendship between the painter support during the Spanish Civil War and and French surrealist poet Paul Éluard, beyond.

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2020 CHRISTIAN BERTRAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

06 June Tourist numbers are soaring as Barcelona plunges into summer. Live music festivals and open-air events give the month a festive air.

z Cors Muts 1 Jun 3 Sónar 18-20 Jun After a weekend of out-of-town revelry Sónar is Barcelona’s massive celebration over the Pentecost (or ‘Second Easter’ of electronic music, with DJs, exhibitions, weekend), these gaudily dressed bands of sound labs, record fairs and urban art musicians return to the barrios of Raval and (pictured above). Barceloneta in a big parade on the Monday afternoon. z La Revetlla de Sant Joan 23 Jun 3 Festival On 23 June locals hit the streets or hold Pedralbes early Jun–mid-Jul parties at home to celebrate the Revetlla This summertime fest (www.festival de Sant Joan (St John’s Night), which pedralbes.com) takes place in lovely involves drinking, dancing, bonfires and gardens and stages big-name performers fireworks. In Spanish, it’s called ‘Verbenas – many of them old-timers (Beach Boys, de Sant Joan’. Sting, Blondie) from early June to mid-July. z Pride z Corpus Christi 11 Jun Barcelona late Jun or early Jul Honouring the Holy Communion, and held Barcelona’s Pride festival (www.pride on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, Corpus barcelona.org) is a couple of weeks of Christi is celebrated in Barcelona with a big celebrations held late June or early July procession of gegants and the traditional with a crammed program of culture and ‘L’Ou Com Balla’, where eggs are seen to concerts, along with the traditional Pride ‘dance’ in fountains across the city centre. march on Saturday.

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