NORDEA BANK PRESENTS A GUIDE TO STOCKHOLM
ANNUAL REPORT OF OJSC NORDEA BANK FOR 2012
GUIDE TO STOCKHOLM
Annual Report 2012 OJSC Nordea Bank
Dear FrienDs!
With this book, we open a series of publications about the capitals of the Nordic region, the Baltics and Poland — the home markets for the Nordea Group, which also comprises Nordea Bank Russia. This book is our Annual Report, and it is probably a bit different from what international banks usually issue.
The conventional part is our financials, which prove our strong results and efficiency of our operations. Efficiency is fundamental in today’s banking industry, because volatile markets, fiscal austerity, and increased regulation entail extra expenses for banks.
In the challenging 2012 the Group continued to deliver on its strategy. Nordea confirmed its strong market position and high credit ratings: the three major agencies assigned Nordea some of the best ratings in Europe. In Russia, Nordea Bank has also been assigned the highest credit rating by Fitch Ratings and listed among the safest institutions by Forbes. As a strong bank with high capitali- zation and profitability, we are confident of our ability to deliver and share this confidence with our customers.
The word Nordea associates with advanced financial products and services, continuous development and improvement, high quality of service, a professional team committed to its mission, and a strong corporate culture. We do our utmost to provide great customer experiences in financing your business, family well-being, and future plans.
But Nordea also associates with the beautiful countries and cities, with their unique nature, traditions, culture, and people. So in the non-conventional part of our Annual Report we will share with you the spirit of the countries, cities, and nations we have been working with for so many years. The first issue is about Stockholm, because it is where the head office of the Nordea Group is located. We hope that you will stay with us for many years, visit all the must-sees we are going to cover in this and the following issues and benefit from our colleagues’ advice!
Best regards,
Igor Bulantsev CEO, Nordea Bank Russia n A B
w e
s
STOCKHOLM 1
contents
77 77 6 28
HISTORY AND CULTURE 63 2 26
MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
81
38 44 53 61 41
WALKING
62 64 3 RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, MARKETS 12 78
SHOPPING 80
86 73
NIGHTLIFE
4 94
ABOUT THE BANK
A B C D E
1 20
31
76 37
28 89 71 79 77 69 72 40 21 94 2 20 75 73 80 28 16 87 85 36 32 93
15 88 64 81 36 33 28
53 17 69 41 27 65 53 7 33 43 8 25 49 91 67 40 45
84 35 3
88 61 8 68 8
32 80
12 69 92 13
64
41 23 29
73 4
5 C D E HISTORY AND CULTURE
WHAT DOES THE KING HAVE FOR BREAKFAST?
vad ÄTEr kungEn Till FrukOsT?
[ ˋvah ˋETTEr ˋkyungEn Till ˋFrOkOsT? ]
The Swedish monarchy is not merely a form of government, object of wor- ship, and historical artifact, but also a reliable source of income for paparazzi and the main topic of conversations for the country’s housewives. News of the royal life keeps coming, and the whole country follows its installments. Every souvenir shop off ers wedding pictures of the princess or rugs with the royal coat of arms. Even the largest museums in the country are connected in some way with the life of the monarchs. högvakTEn
Changing OF ThE rOyal PalaCE guard
The main show of the country goes on regardless of the weather and without days off . Every day, a procession of soldiers, police off ic- ers, musicians, and troopers (in season) arrives at the square in front of the Royal Palace. In the summer you can catch an entire horse show, while at Christmas time you can see holiday parades, brass bands, drummers, and bugler concerts. In general, this is everything peaceful Sweden’s army has been doing over the last couple of hun- dred years. The show schedules and programs are published on the off icial website of the Swedish armed forces.
5C3 beginning of shows: 12.15 on weekdays, 1.15 pm on sunday www.forsvarsmakten.se/sv/Forband-och-formagor/hogvakten HISTORY AND CULTURE
Prins EugEns WaldEmarsuddE
COllECTiOn OF PainTings
The artist, art collector, and patron Prince Eugens studied painting in Uppsala, lived on Montmartre, was friends with Renoir, Gauguin, and Picasso, collected works of young artists, and even was a great landscape painter. The Prince designed his home in Waldemarsudde in Djurgården himself. As a result it became a romantic mansion with 3000 terraces and French mansard roofs, surrounded by a park of oak works of the Prince and chestnut trees. Now, sculptures by Auguste Rodin, Carl Milles, Eugens’ authorship and Per Hasselberg sit between the chestnuts, and there is a huge are kept in his collection of 19th and 20th century paintings inside the museum. house-museum 5E3 Prins Eugens väg 6, djurgården, www.waldemarsudde.se
ThE sWEdish armOry
Do not believe the name: in fact the Armory is not so much swords and crossbows as artifacts of the royal household from the last four centuries. Carriages, costumes, horse trappings, and presents from fellow monarchs — everything is neatly arranged, illuminated, and shiny like new. Send your children to a fencing lesson, buy a golden Annakarin Persson, crown at the souvenir shop, marvel at the military uniform of Charles translator of Nordea Group XII, worn at Poltava, with traces of trench mud, and when the guard turns away, quietly caress a Streiff stuffed animal: the faithful horse Prinsens kök of the King Gustav II Adolf. The Prince’s kitchen is the restaurant at the palace 5C3 slottsbacken 3, www.livrustkammaren.se of Prince eugens. it is in the former kitchen of the palace, where Prince eugens the swedish lived in the first half of the 20th century. Prinsens kök offers an extraordinary atmosphere and excellent cuisine. in order to get there, you need to buy a ticket to Waldemarsudde Museum, but as it is one of the most attractive museums in stock- holm, that will surely not become an obstacle.
5E3 Prins Eugens väg 6
8 drOTTninghOlm
ThE main PalaCE OF sWEdEn
The construction of a permanent residence for the royal family began in the 18th century. It was built like Versailles, without skimping on decorations, statues, and fountains. However, the royal family moved there only in 1981. Now it occupies a third of the palace. The entrance to the king’s apartment is located behind the first door to the left of the left luggage office (tourists are not allowed there, Do you see the so you can try to say hello to the monarch only at the exit). The other Royal Standard attractions of the palace are the historical court Opera House with of Drottningholm? 18th century machinery, the Chinese Pavilion, the lush gardens and the It means that the Palace Church, where there is a tapestry woven by Gustav V. monarch is in the city www.kungahuset.se
9 HISTORY AND CULTURE
A BAKER USED TO LIVE HERE
hÄr bOddE bagarE FöruT
[ hEr ˋbuddEh ˋbagarEh FyOˋryOOT ]
Stockholm is full of wonderful hotels. Tourists can choose whether to spend a night in a medieval cell in the middle of the Old Town or among the crystal chande- liers, carpets, and heavy drapes of Grand Hotel Stockholm, in a room where a couple dozen Nobel laureates have stayed before you. But the most interesting hotels of the city are the ones where guests became al- lowed only recently. Former barracks, a hos- pital, a prison, a brewery, and a flour-mill have turned out to be good starting points to explore the city. JumbO sTay
Flying hOsTEl
What would become this hostel has changed many owners over the years. Singapore Airlines, Pan American, Transjet... In 2008, the Boing 747 made its last flight and got parked forever at Arlanda airport, already as a hotel. There the seats and navigation instruments were replaced by wide beds and wallpaper with views of the sky above the clouds. There are 26 rooms, a small bar in the rear of the airplane and a suite in the cockpit with the view of the airfield of Stockholm airport.
Jumbovägen 4, www.jumbostay.com
11 COlumbus hOTEll
ThE FOrmEr brEWEry On södErmalm
Since its construction in 1780, the building of the hotel has been a brewery, barracks, a shelter for the homeless, and a cholera hospital. The only memento of those times are the vast cellars where they once used to cook and now pour beer and arrange wine presentations. The upper floors are converted into a hostel and are cheaper; the lower ones are more expensive; but it is cozy everywhere, and the views of Södermalm and the Church of Katharina are beautiful seen from any floor.
5C4 Tjärhovsgatan 11, www.columbus.se
The Grand Hotel is the most famous hotel in Stockholm with its history since 1847
långhOlmEn hOTEll
hOTEl in a FOrmEr PrisOn
The building in the middle of Långholmen island was built in 1874 as Långholmen prison. In 1975 the prison was closed and turned into a hotel. There were bars on the windows, heavy doors with peepholes, double-decker bunks and posters with a prison daily schedule from the past. An open terrace, its own beach, a good museum of Långholmen prison, a shop with striped robes, and cheerful rooms-cells furnished with IKEA style are new. By the way, there is a separate line on the site indicating that the guest has a key to the cell.
5А3 långholmsmuren 20, www.langholmen.com
12 HISTORY AND CULTURE
EliTE hOTEl marina TOWEr
a FlOur-mill WiTh a sEa viEW
The huge red-brick fortress on the coast of the Gulf looks like a fairytale castle or a military fort. In fact, for many years there was a flour-mill in this 19th century building, and only in 2010 the hotel was opened:186 rooms, a huge swimming pool, a SPA, a waterfront terrace, and its own dock where you can rent a boat, canoe, or kayak. You have to stay in the Tower Suite, i.e. a tower on the roof of the flour-mill from which you can see the whole Djurgården.
5E4 saltsjöqvarns kaj 25, nacka, www.elite.se
13 HISTORY AND CULTURE
WHAT TYPE OF WOOD IS THIS SHIP MADE OF?
av vilkET TrÄslag Är båTEn gJOrT?
[ uv ˋvilkET ˋTrEslag Eh ˋbOTTEn ˋyurT? ]
There is so much water and so many ships and lighthouses in Stockholm that even the city’s museums and memorials seem to be salted, wind-blown, and hardened by seasonal storms. This is the place to look at seascape paintings, leave flowers at the graves of dead sailors, learn to make knots, distinguish a main top mast from a mizen top mast, sing port tavern songs, and marvel at marine reptiles — if not in old engravings then at least in the plates. lighThOusE FinngrundET and iCEbrEakEr sankT Erik
vETErans OF ThE sWEdish mErChanT FlEET
For most of the past century, the lightship Finngrundet ensured navigation in the Gulf of Bothnia. Now the red broad vessel with a lighthouse-shaped mast is moored in Dyurgarden, next to the Vasa ship museum. Sitt ing close by is the first Swedish icebreaker St. Eric, which since 1915 had been clearing ice in the Stockholm canals. Nor- mally, both ships are seen together with Vasa museum, and you can buy a single ticket for all three. WM island of Djurgården, on the right from Djurgården bridge.
5D2 djurgården island is on the right side of djurgården bridge
15 sJöhisTOriska musEET
ThE WOrld’s mOsT FasCinaTing mariTimE musEum
Hundreds of thousands of exhibits for all ages and tastes. 14 Children look at model ships and sail a dinghy, teens subscribe islands compose for knot-making and sailing courses, while adults try to spot the the actual territory diff erences between naval uniforms of different periods and sit of modern Stock- quietly on the bed of the King Gustav III in his cabin on Amphion holm ship. And then everyone switches places. Oh, and when you’re there, do not forget to see the collection of weapons, Swedish seascape paintings, and the naval library, which is the largest in Scandinavia.
5E2 djurgardsbrunnsvagen 24, www.sjohistoriska.se
16 HISTORY AND CULTURE mariEFrEd sTEambOaT
hisTOriC shiP On ThE island OF mÄlarEn
Launched in 1903 for the King Oscar II, the steamboat Mariefred has been traveling the same route from Stockholm to Marifred island for more than a century. The season opens in May and runs through September, the schedule hasn’t changed for over 50 years, and the captain has been a fixture for 30 years and running. Mr Claes Insulander has been at the helm of the historic steamboat since 1978. According to him, visiting Mariefred is like going to the Maritime Museum, just a lot more fun, with the sea in full view and with hot meals on board. By the way, Mariefred port to which the vessel goes, is a great place for day trips from Stockholm. www.mariefred.info
Ian Larsson, Director of PR Department of Nordea Group kAYAk TOUr An excellent opportu- nity to explore the city from the water. Two of the most popular excursions are the routes around the islands kungholmen and Långholmen. There are many vasamusEET beautiful beaches along the way for sunbathing and vasa shiP musEum swimming.
Vasa is the only 17th century ship still existent. Having sunk to the seabed in 1628, it got so pickled in the Baltic waves over the next 333 years that all its paneling remained unharmed. In 1961, the ship was raised from the bottom, displayed in the city center, and a seven-story museum was built around it. You can wander on its ladders for hours, feeling as though you were inside a great time machine, because it is not just the shell that remains preserved, but also the 17th century furniture, the world’s oldest sails, 700 wooden sculptures, and even the skulls of the crew. Enterprising Swedes gave each of them a name and a personal stuffed animal.
5D3 galärvarvsvägen 14, www.vasamuseet.se
17 HISTORY AND CULTURE
WHO IS THIS MONUMENT FOR?
vEm Är dETTa mOnumEnT TillÄgnaT?
[ ˋvEm Eh ˋdETTah mOnyOOˋmEnT TillˋEgnaT? ]
Despite their Nordic nature and the cold surrounding climate, the Swedes have a good sense of humor, are cheerful, and love practical jokes. Hence, the funny, bright and unexpected monuments: a plumber gett ing out of the hatch, a cat walking on water, a cow floating in the sky in a space suit, or a foot-long Pointing Finger sticking out of a canal in the city center. "gOd, Our FaThEr, aT ThE rainbOW"
FOunTain sCulPTurE by Carl millEs
Father God is sitt ing on a rainbow stretched high in the sky and nailing stars to the sky. An apprentice angel standing at the bott om is toss- ing him up the stars. The arching metal rainbow goes into the stream of water; the monument transforms into a fountain, and engineering design transforms into absolute magic. Sweden’s leading sculptor Carl Milles made a sketch of “God” for New York City, intending to place the fountain in front of the United Nations building, but he did not receive the assignment. Only in 1995, one of Milles’ apprentices, Mar- shall Fredericks, took his teacher’s sketch, enlarged it, built a full-sized fountain, and set it on the water near the city’s sea gate. nacka strand HISTORY AND CULTURE
mOnumEnT TO ThE singEr mOniCa ZETTErlyund
a bEnCh singing JaZZ One of Monica Zetterlyund’s most When you sit on the semicircular wooden bench a gentle female popular songs was voice begins loudly singing jazz hits: Waltz for Debby, I Can’t Give En gång i Stockholm, You Anything But Love, etc. The repertoire lasts an hour without (“Once in Stockholm"), repetition, the voice belongs to the Swedes favorite jazz singer which was dedicated Monica Zetterlyund, and the bench-shaped monument was unveiled to the singer’s in Vasastan two years ago. At first, Stockholm City Hall wanted favorite city to put up a bust of Monica Zetterlyund, but her daughter said that her mother had been afraid of appearing in public all her life, hated the stage, and would not have wished to stand as a monument in the middle of the crowd.
5C1 Zeterlunden park at the intersection of roslagsgatan and surbrunnsgata streets
mOnumEnT TO laura
brOnZE ChiCkEn in ösTErmalm
Tourists usually believe that the large sculpture of a chicken running through the square as a symbol of careless pedestrians, housewives, or shopaholics. But to think so means to absolutely misunder- stand the Swedish. In fact, the sculptor Ebba Hedkvist dedicated the monument to people living in the metropolis, where space Another unusual is compressed, the number of cars keeps growing, and the air is go- Stockholm monu- ing bad, so people are starting to feel like flightless birds running ment is the Beggar nowhere with their tail between their legs and their feet in the air. Fox sitting at the very beginning of the 5C2 norrmalmstorg pedestrian shopping street Drotninggatan. The sculpture was created by the British sculptor Laura Ford to attract attention to the homeless and the forest animals deprived of their usual habitat
20 HISTORY AND CULTURE nOn-viOlEnCE
lOadEd rEvOlvEr
A giant bronze revolver with the barrel tied is Swedish artist Charles Frederick Reytersvard’s answer to the murders of John Lennon and the actor Bob Crane. It looks like a replica of the 45 Colt from which the lead Beatle was shot and killed. The Colt is loaded, but the barrel is tied in a knot: the hippie generation rejects violence. With time, this sculpture became perhaps the most famous symbol in the 115-inch Boy Looking world. Similar monuments stand in front of the United Nations At the Moon is the building in NYC, in Berlin, Beijing, and Luxembourg, 16 cities in all. smallest monument in Stockholm 5C2 sergelgatan HISTORY AND CULTURE
SWEDISH DESIGN IS VERY SIMPLE!
svEnsk dEsign — så EnkElT!
[ ˋsvEnsk dEˋsinE — sOh ˋEnkElT! ]
“Vackrare vardagsvara” means “more beautiful things for everyday life”! This mott o was proclaimed in 1919 by the ideologue of the Swedish Industrial Design Society Gregor Paulson, and over the years it became the national idea. The Swedes are sure that everything around them must be beautiful and functional at the same time. It can take years to learn about Swedish modern design, but the shops, museums and even subway stations will help you catch the main features and trends in Stockholm. sOFO
a nEsT OF indEPEndEnT dEsignErs
A mixture of galleries, club, and a park, SoFo is not clearly defined. This area of Stockholm is full of trendy publishers, inexpensive bars, shops, and designer stores. Here, modern Swedish fashion is created, designers sett le, and home fashion shows and DJ sets take place. Over the years, the work of SoFo artists migrated to the big depart- ment stores, but you need to go here to see the creative atmos- phere in which it was created. Anyone who has even a litt le interest in Swedish design will not miss SoFo.
5D4 area between renstiernas gata and götgatan HISTORY AND CULTURE
TunnElbana
ThE bEsT-dEsignEd mETrO in ThE WOrld
More than a hundred artists, architects, and sculptors took part in the creation of the Stockholm subway; a special committee According to sta- selected the works of art that can prevent claustrophobia and other tistics, the Swedes stress from the descent to the underground. The subway is called spend more time and “the longest art gallery in the world”. It is not only considered money on repairs one of the most beautiful subways in the world, but also meets and home decoration the requirements of modern Swedish design: functionality plus than any other convenience plus beauty. nation in the world The most interesting stations of the subway are on the blue line
24 HISTORY AND CULTURE
arkiTEkTurmusEET
ThE hisTOry OF mOdErn sWEdish arChiTECTurE
The Architecture Museum, established in 1962, has over the years become a place to learn about the history and culture of Swedish architecture and Scandinavian interior design in general. The Mu- 2 seum contains a display on the history of architecture over the last hour is the millennium, models of cities, buildings, and rooms, and a collection length of a Russian- of drawings, blueprints, and photographs of about a thousand differ- language tour at the ent architectural structures from all over Sweden. If you come to the Arkitekturmuseet Museum early, you can catch the beginning of the tour in Russian: at 11 a.m. almost every day.
5D3 skeppsholmen, www.arkitekturmuseet.se
dEsignTOrgET
usElEss and EXTrEmEly glamOrOus
DesignTorget is a chain of stores selling designer souvenirs. The funny and unusual things from DesignTorget are normally not too useful, but quite charming. So before you buy something, think twice whether you really need a holder for spaghetti, a pepper cellar shaped like a pug, a USB flash drive inside a birch log, or a plastic case for a banana. However, as practice shows, beauty prevails over functionality concerns: the company sold 50,000 banana cases in three years. addresses of the eight stores are on the site www.designtorget.se MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
YOU CAN TOUCH ALL EXHIBITS får mAn gärnA rörA utStällningSföremål
[ for mAn yˋernA ryorA yutSˋtellningSfyoreˋmol ]
The signs “Do not touch”, “Do not walk on the lawn”, “Do not feed the Moom- in-trolls” were not invented in Sweden. The Swedes understand that muse- ums, parks and entertainment centers must fully impact all five human sens- es, and you need to look closely, touch and, if needed, take a taste of every- thing that is exhibited there. That’s why most of the museums in Stockholm are arranged so that the visitors can commu- nicate directly with the exhibits. We chose the most unusual ones. SpritmuSeum
muSeum of Alcohol
The exhibition in the building of an old wine warehouse begins mod- estly with halls dedicated to the history of winemak- ing. The atmosphere of a last-century alcohol store is recreated. There is a stand with fifty spices which were added to the alcohol: pressing the but- ton of the small pump you can breathe in the smell of each and be reminded of something private. Sev- eral halls in, the strength both of the madness and the beverages begins to rise. There are huge Tille&Frasse distillatory vessels, installations with people singing drinking songs, and a “hangover room” where someone is not very well, judg- ing by the sound. The tour ends with a tasting of “Swedish flavors”: hot glögg, Swedish fruit wine, a glass of spiced vodka and a glass of punch for the strongest.
5D3 Djurgårdsvägen 38, www.vinosprithistoriska.se
27 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
KungligA hovStAllet
the royAl StAbleS
The dark red 19th century brick building still belongs to the court and is used to store the royal carriages, crews and cars, as well as stables for twenty of the king’s horses that have taken special training to participate in processions and parades. You are allowed to go in the stables with a guide only, but inside you can pet the Magnus Erkander, royal steed named Atlas, sit in the carriage or hold the steering Managing Supervisor of Nordea wheel or the Royal Daimler produced in 1950. It is best not to come Group's activities to the stables in the summer: the horses may be on vacation.
MedeltidsMuseet 5C2 väpnargatan 1, www.kungahuset.se Museum of the Middle Ages, which they wanted to turn into a parking lot for the Members of Parliament leKSAKSmuSeet (Riksdagen), but changed their minds when they 10.000 reASonS for noStAlgiA discovered an old city wall during archaeological From felted pups to Disney characters, from porcelain dolls to Barbie excavations. Now, this exhausted on a diet, from Mickey Mouse to the Lego. The Toy Museum artifact is an exhibit is a children’s museum that adults will surely like at first sight. Things of the very nice museum. that belong to the past for the children will remind their parents of a teddy bear not presented in childhood, their good nanny Frau 5C2 Svantesson and Gunilla from school. Most of the ten thousand exhibits Strömparterren 3 are displayed in glass cases, but you can touch many of them. Having had enough nostalgia you can visit the panic room, leave the children on the playground and hang out in the gift shop for a while.
5C2 tegelviksgatan 22, www.leksaksmuseet.se
28 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
SpårvägSmuSeet
muSeum of urbAn trAnSport
The exposition is arranged so that the visitor travels in time, starting his journey from ancient touching horse-drawn wagons, and ending it by recently decommissioned trams and subway cars. Most of the exhibits you can not only touch, but even look inside. It will be Do not miss museum interesting both for children and adults to go into the cabin, sit shops — they are the in the car, play the driver and conductor, drive a little copy of a best places to buy Stockholm subway car, and see how a real steam train runs. souvenirs from Stockholm 5D4 tegelviksgatan 22, www.sparvagsmuseet.sl.se
29 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
HOW MUCH DOES ZORN’S WORK COST?
vAD KoStAr ZornS verK?
[ ˋvA ˋcoStAr ˋSornSh ˋvirK? ]
Sweden has not given the world its own Raphael: their art was far behind Europe’s until the middle of the 19th century. Perhaps that is why since the 1850s the Swedes have rushed to make up the gap at a furious pace, bringing out artist and illustrator Carl Larson, impressionist Anders Zorn, sculptor Carl Milles, and symbolist Eugen Janson. Today, Swedish artists and designers win first priz- es at international exhibitions. Gallery own- ers gather the cream of the world of con- temporary art in their museums. mAgASin 3
the neWeSt in contemporAry Art
1,500 square meters of contemporary art in the middle of a gloomy port dock. Founded in 1987, it is one of the major galleries in Europe with a collection of six hundred regular exhibitions of works, every- thing that is relevant and provocative. Since then it has become one of the major channels in the world of the contemporary art and crea- ted dozens of artists who were not known outside Sweden before. Do not miss the lecture courses, discussions, and meetings with artists which take place in Magasin 3 constantly.
5E1 frihamnen 3, www.magasin3.com
31 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
1.6 million euro was paid by an anonymous buyer for a water- color by Anders Zorn, presented at the Stockholm auction which was held in June 2012
All you neeD to See in contemporAry photogrAphy
Helena Genberg, More than 2,500 square meters of exhibition space dedicated solely Senior Project Manager to the needs of photography. Fotografiska only appeared in 2010; of Nordea Group Annie Leibovitz herself conducted the opening ceremony, and in a couple of years a gloomy beginning-of-the-century building has House become one of the largest exhibition centers in the world of con- of CultuRe temporary photography. “Our ambition is to exhibit world-renown KultuRHuset photographers, many of who have never shown in Sweden,” the Give particular attention website of the museum states ambitiously. They keep their prom- to the fourth floor, where ise: Fotografiska holds four major exhibitions and 15–20 small ones a children’s library is located each year, Fotografiska Academy offers courses in photojournalism, from whose windows you fashion-shoots, and various workshops in the visual arts, and you can can admire a beautiful see one of the most beautiful views of the city from the bar on the view of the city. top floor.
5C2 5D3 Stadsgårdsleden 22, www.fotografiska.eu Sergels torg 111
32 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT mAgnuS KArlSSon
lAunching pAD for young ArtiStS
One of the most interesting galleries that exposes young Swedish art- ists of different degrees of fame. According to the organizers, Magnus Karlsson was supposed to be a kind of Montmartre: a place where art- ists are not only shown, but they also gather to share their best prac- tices, and then wake up famous. So far, everything is turning out well for Magnus Karlsson: the gallery regularly takes its artists to interna- tional exhibitions, sells to private collections, and exhibits at home. Take note of well-known names such as Karin Mamma Andersson and Jockum Nordström, and of young creators as well.
5C2 fredsgatan 12, www.gallerimagnuskarlsson.com
ScAnDinAviAn momA
We say “the United States” and remember MOMA, we say “Scandinavia” and remember Moderna. The museum contains one of the world's finest collections of 20th-century art. Dalí, Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso sculptures, lots of Rodchenko and Kandinsky, Munch, Warhol and more. The works are displayed in reverse chronological order (from the present to the beginning of the twentieth century), and the collection is so large that you are unlikely to get even to the 1950s in a single day at the museum. On a separate note, there are temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists, a huge museum shop, a children’s workshop, and a restaurant with a great view of the island of Djurgården.
5D3 Slupskjulsvägen 7–9, www.modernamuseet.se
33 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
WHAT DO MOOMINS EAT?
vAD livnär Sig mumintroller på?
[ ˋvAh leevˋner ShAy ˋmyoomintˋroller poh? ]
Take a rollercoaster ride, meet a live moose, go into space, take a walk through the rainforest, or get into a real adventure. Stockholm is a city which is very fond of children. They are welcomed here, and you can almost always find separate children’s programs, game rooms, and menus — even in museums and restaurants for adults. If you are in Stockholm with family, why not begin exploring the city from spots specially created for the kids. The Swedes are so aware of them that they can wake up the inner child in you. grönA lunD
mAin AmuSement pArK
There is always a strange hum above the oldest and the most well-known amusement park of the country. What it is in fact is rides screeching, but the non-stop squeak- ing merges into a single smooth sound. It is particularly loud around the Insane rollercoaster whose riders are sent into free fall twice, hung upside down, and parallel-rotated around its axis. And then you scream. Children shorter than 140 cm are not allowed on Insane, and so, having avoided the horrors of this world, they run all over the park, having fun and consuming everything edible on their way. All that adults can do in this situation is to try not to lose their head and not to follow their kids onto the Octopus carousel. We recommend the 120-meter Eclipse, it is much worse.
5D3 lilla Allmänna gränd 9, www.gronalund.com
35 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
JunibAcKen
AStriD linDgren’S muSeum of tAleS
Regardless of your age and whether or not you have children, visit the Astrid Lindgren Park and Museum. Even if you are way over 10, you can enjoy a walk through the Head Over Heels Villa where Pippi Longstocking lives, see the play at the children’s theater, admire the exhibition of illustrations to Astrid Lindgren’s books, and ride the fabulous train, rushing with the wind through the marvelous land of her books. Have a look at Katt hult Farm where Emil of Lönneberga managed to raise his sister Ida on a pole instead of a flag. Get up onto a Vasastan roof where a rather chubby man in the prime of life lives. Fly with Nils and the wild geese. Meet Ronia the Robber’s Daughter and remember your childhood.
The Ethnographic 5D2 galärvarvsvägen 8, www.junibacken.se Museum, Mediterranean, the National Museum of Natural History — everywhere there are programs and entertainment for children teKniSKA muSeet
tech muSeum for chilDren AnD everyone
A model mine, ancient telephones, amateur radio stations and more than a hundred of the world’s greatest inventions. The Tech Museum was actually created for adults, but it has in fact become a place of entertainment for the entire family. Here you can see the first Volvo cars and old steam locomotives, feel like an astronaut, measure the speed of your own reactions, and create your own TV show. But the main att raction is Sweden’s first 4D-cinema with wiggling chairs, Birzhitta Jarl, splashing water, scents, and other special eff ects. Managing Partner of Nordea Group 5E2 museivägen 7, www.tekniskamuseet.se GRÖNA luNd if you are in stockholm in summer with the children, you just have to go to the amusement park Gröna lund! it is located in central stock- holm, close to the beautiful port. You can get to the park on foot having made a pleas- ant stroll along the famous strandvägen quay, or take a boat, from the slussen station in the old town, for example.
5D3 lilla Allmänna gränd 9, www. gronalund.com
36 MUSEUMS AND ENTERTAINMENT
160 SEK is a ticket to Stockholm Tekniska Museet
Fredrika Vigenstam, Specialist of Public Relations Department of Nordea Group HuMleGåRdeN Are you traveling with children and feeling that they (and you) need a break from shopping and parlor games? the best place to visit is the wonderful outdoor playground tom titS experiment in Humlegarten, a public park located in the heart of Scientific AmuSement pArK stockholm, a few blocks from the main shopping streets. Only the Swedes could come up with the idea to make fun of science. Tom Tit is a 16,000 square meter park where laws of physics, 5C2 astronomical effects, chemical reactions, optics, hydrodynamics and Karlavägen 32c aerodynamics, anatomy, electricity, climatology, etc. are displayed visually. Create a cloud, inflate a giant soap bubble, get lost in a mirror maze, survive a ten-point storm, fly in a hot air balloon, and understand, finally, the law of physics which your teacher in the seventh grade could not explain to you. Take note: the park is located in Södertälje, a suburb 30–40 minutes by car away from Stockholm.
Södertälje, Storgatan 33, www.tomtit.se
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GLÖGG WITH A VIEW ON THE CITY, PLEASE!
GLöGG MED STADSUTSIKT, TACK!
[ ´GLOGG MEH ˋSTADˋSOOTˋSICKT, TACK! ]
You can admire Stockholm whenever you like: at dawn, at sunset, at dusk, in the fog. But whatever the weather, the best views are from the rooftops, the TV tower, an upper deck or a balloon basket. Then the colorful fabric will appear before you in all its glory, woven out of spires drilling the sky, neat gray roofs, the blue surface of the sea, and green parks. And this view, like a favorite movie, is never boring. ERICSSON GLOBE
A VIEW OF THE CITY FROM THE TOP OF A CONCRETE BALL
Ericsson Globe is the world’s largest ball-shaped arena. You can get to its top via the facade in one of the 20 round glass gondolas seating 16 people each. It will lift you 130 meters and circle the top of the ball twice. Gondolas depart six times an hour, but expect a line for them during the weekend. Beyond the usual lift to the observation deck you can enjoy a personal tour (champagne included in the price) or arrange a wedding up high.
Globentorget 2, www.globearenas.se/en/skyview.aspx
39 WALKING
You can look at the city from the top of the Ferris wheel in Junibacken Park or the rollercoaster at Gröna Lund
Alexander Piatidis, Specialist on Interaction with Users of Nordea Group SKEPPSHOLSMEN A charming little island in the central part of the city, great for walks: you take the path along the bay past old wooden boats smelling with resin. There are several good restau- rants on the way; for example, Herta and Skeppsholmen. TV TOWER KAKNÄSTORNET
5D3 VIEW OF ONE HUNDRED KILOMETERS AROUND STOCKHOLM
The gray concrete construction in the suburbs seems at first glance to be a factory chimney. Inside hides the Swedish TV tower, and at the top, at the height of 155 meters (the highest spot in the city) there is an observation deck from which you can see all of Stock- holm from the Old Town (Gamla Stan) in the west to the islands of the Stockholm archipelago in the east. However, the tower is so far away from the center that you better choose a sunny day for your visit, and grab a pair of binoculars. The nice bar on the 30th floor of the tower will help compensate this disadvantage.
5E2 Mörka Kroken 28–30, www.kaknastornet.se
40 WALKING 150 bright sunny days in Stockholm per year, according to fore- casters
Marianne Andersson, OCH HIMLEN DÄRTILL Intranet Site Manager of Nordea Group SKY BAR AT SöDERMALM KuNgS- The bar is on the 26th floor of a skyscraper, directly above a noisy TrädgårdEN student dormitory in a former tax office. You can see half of the city Ice skating is traditional Swed- from the panoramic windows, including the Old Town (Gamla Stan) ish fun. I personally love the and the islands of the bay. Everything else is as it should be in a bar ice rink not far from the head where you go for the view through the windows: vaguely European office of Nordea Bank in the food, small portions, high prices, and landscapes for which you royal gardens area. completely forget about everything else.
5C4 Götgatan 78, www.restauranghimlen.se
TOWN HALL TOWER
AN OBSERVATION DECK AT THE HEIGHT OF 106 METERS
A visit to the Town Hall is fraught with disappointments. At the entrance you see the gravestone of the founder of Stockholm, Birgerjarl, but he is not buried there. In the Blue Hall the Nobel Prize banquets are held, but you are unlikely to be invited. In the Oval Room you can marry in the quick Scandinavian manner (three minutes for the whole ceremony), but you must book six months in advance. But all these “cons” fade after a visit to the highest tower in Scandinavia — the Town Hall which offers the best collection of picture-perfect views of Stockholm.
5B3 Ragnar östbergs plan 1, www.stockholm.se
41 WALKING
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL PARK!
VILKEN FIN PARK!
[ ˋVILKEN ˋFIN ˋPARK! ]
Occupying almost half of Stockholm, the urban parks start near the Royal Palace, then are replaced by squares and lakes, then turn into a forest of cen- tury-old oak trees, continue to mead- ows with herds of cows and sheep, and end in the high sea cliff s. And all this is in the city. You won’t believe that you are in the middle of a European me- tropolis. To enjoy these beautiful urban parks you need to set aside at least a day for each one. DjURGÅRDEN ISLAND
FOREST PARK IN THE DOWNTOWN
Tourists rarely go to the island of Djurgården for its own sake. Usually they are looking for Skansen Park, the Vasa Ship museum, the Gröna Lund amusement park, or one of a dozen art galleries. All this magnificence is indeed located on Djurgården, but there is also the luxurious Forest Park (a former royal hunting reserve), lakes, fields, flocks of wild geese, rabbits running across forest paths, as well as kayaks, catamarans, and bicycles for rent, which will be useful in seeing all this beauty.
5E3 Djurgården island, www.djurgarden.net
43 PARK AND MUSEUM MILLESGÅRDEN
THE WORK OF SCULPTOR CARL MILLES
Sweden’s national treasure, friend of Rodin’s, and one of the most famous sculptors of the 20th century, Carl Milles acquired a plot on the island of Lidingö in 1906. He built a house, made a park, and filled it with his sculptures for the rest of his life. Orpheus, Hand of 40% God, Angel on Skates, and others. What came out is a phantasmago- of Stockholm ria, heaven, hell, and a fairytale at the same time. Milles’ collections is covered in parks of ancient Greek and Roman art, French and Italian painting are on display here. Besides, Millesgården is worth a visit even if it’s just for the sake of the beautiful gardens and fountains, and a panorama of Vertan Bay.
Herserudsvägen 32, www.millesgarden.se
PARK RÅLAMBSHOVSPARKEN
A POPULAR PLACE FOR FESTIVALS AND PICNICS
A regular park (by Stockholm standards) with a wide field and a grassy beach on the lake. In the summer you can lie on the grass, Suzanne Skogberg, play the guitar or soccer, volleyball or Frisbee, have a picnic, or swim Translator of Nordea Group in the lake. There is a skate park, and concerts and festivals are held in the summer theater with room for five thousand spectators. Over- EdWArd all Woodstock feeling, but without Jimmy Hendrix and every day. ANdErSON’S grEENHOuSE 5А3 Остров Кунгсхольмен in the botanical garden is like a trip around the world for 50 SEK. Lemons grow in my favorite Mediterranean section and the air smells like rose- mary. In the winter, I just want to move into the greenhouse, setting up a bed under a palm tree until spring comes.
Gustafsborgsvägen 4
44 WALKING
PARK AND MUSEUM SKANSEN
THE WORLD’S OLDEST OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
A zoo, a terrarium, an amusement park, and the main platform for city festivals, traditional ceremonies and festivals, Skansen is actually an You should visit ethnographic park. At the end of the 19th century, 150 wooden build- Stockholm parks for ings were brought here from all over Sweden, resulting in the feeling Swedish national that the great-great-grandfathers of the modern Swedes lived here, holidays: Midsommar worked hard, herded sheep, baked bread, shod horses, and danced (mid summer day), in a circle. This is a town with medieval streets, workshops, a smithy, Valborgs Night and a bakery and a market place. Its inhabitants live in old houses, wear the Day of Saint Lucia camisoles and sundresses, bake cinnamon buns and are happy to tell visitors interesting stories about life in their area and epoch.
5D3 Djurgården 49–51, www.skansen.se
45 WALKING
THIS MORNING I SAW A DEER
IMORSE SÅG jAG EN REN
[ IˋMOSHEH ˋSOG YA EHN ˋREN ]
The first living thing every tourist hears about in Sweden is Stockhom salmon that swims in the city canals from nearby Riddarfjord. But be- sides this famous fish, the city is full of other animals: hares run freely in the capital’s parks, deer cross the road at red lights, and beavers sometimes swim in the lakes. The Swedes strive to preserve the environment, and they care for the life of any living creature, so there are no zoos of the usual kind in the city. There are only parks where animals are free. ECOPARK
RESERVE IN THE CITY
This is not one, but three parks (Djurgarden, Haga and Ulriksdal), connected with Brunnsviken Bay, plus several neighboring islands, only about thirty kilometers square in the city and beyond it. The park was conceived as an urban reserve, which protects the nature and the health of Stockholm’s residents. The eco-park begins a kilometer away from the city center, but you can still meet a deer, an elk, some rabbits or foxes. In 1990, when the territory of the park became a protected area, many birds left their usual habitations and moved there, so that the residents, for example, of nearby Skansen village are outraged that no herons are left living there: they’ve moved to the city. www.ekoparken.org
47 WALKING
KOLMÅRDEN
THE LARGEST SAFARI PARK IN SCANDINAVIA
It is hard to call a park 150 kilometers away from Stockholm — Hares are permanent “a zoo”. There is enough space here for the animals, so that they residents of feel free (the reason 400 young are born here each year), but peo- Stockholm, you ple are only allowed to stay in the designated areas. The safari zone can meet them takes up almost half of Kolmorden. Visitors go through the jungle in any park in cable cars traveling at the height of five meters, which enables them to observe the life of giraffes, zebras, lions, ostriches, and bears. A variety of shows with wild animals and dolphins begin in the park every hour. Hares are permanent residents of Stockholm; you can meet them in any park.
Kolmårdens Djurpark, Kolmården, www.kolmarden.com
48 FjÄRILSHUSET
A TROPICAL FOREST IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY
The Butterfly House is a three-thousand-m2 greenhouse in Hagaparken where 700 species of exotic butterflies flutter and tropical plants grow. It is better to come in the Butterfly House in May and June, when you have a good chance of seeing the emergence of butterflies. Every day, at 1pm you can catch the feeding of exotic fish in huge aquariums. There are no trellises and fences in the greenhouse, so all the inhabitants flutter and crawl right among the visitors.
Hagaparken, www.fjarilshuset.se
Anders Edlund, PR Partner of Nordea Group STröMSTArArNA A sport fishing club that organizes fishing in downtown Stockholm. Abso- lutely anyone can become a member. Then you can join the lucky fishermen catching salmon in the bay of the Baltic AqUARIA VATTENMUSEUM Sea (Stockholm Ström), right next to the royal Palace. SHARKS AND MORAY EELS IN THE MIDDLE OF DjURGÅRDENS
www.stromstararna.se The river flows through the tropical jungle. It is hot and humid; weird fish splash smells of rot up with their tails and you do not feel like sticking your hand into the water. Dusk falls quickly, the sun sets, and a single plate flashes in the dark: “Is it dark? Wait. It is night in the jungle”. The visitors go into the next room. Besides the Amazon jungle, the Stockholm Aquarium masterfully mimics the fauna of cold northern seas and storm drain system. And in the courtyard overlooking the bay there is a system of artificial rapids, so that in December you can see how the trout gets out of the bay right in the museum on its way to mate.
5D3 Falkenbergsgatan 2, www.aquaria.se
49 WALKING
TODAY WE HAVE A GOLF TOURNAMENT
IDAG HAR VI EN GOLFTÄVLING
[ EEˋDAH ˋHAR VEE EHN ˋGOLFˋTEVLING ]
Stockholm is an amazing city. Salmon splash here under the windows of the Royal Palace, sakuras grow in the backyard, boats are used nearly more often than Volvos, lost hares are turned out from gardens, and people cycle both to kindergarten and to collect their pensions. The life in the center of the largest Scandinavian capital looks very rustic at times. Envious tourists should just try to enjoy the suburban entertain- ment that is impossible in other cities. GOLF
WHITE NIGHTS SPORT
Golf is the most natural thing in a city of green fields and well-lit nights. The capital’s golf fields are some of the best in the country, golf clubs do not require membership, and many of them are situated in picturesque locations near lakes and canals. For example, one of the oldest clubs in the city, Stockholms Golfklubb, offers golf fields with views over the lake Edsviken, reachable even by metro. Also to Swedish golf’s advantage are the short summer nights, due to which the game may continue until late evening. www.sgk.nu
51 WALKING
KAYAKING
WITH A PADDLE PAST THE ROYAL PALACE
Given the number of lakes and canals, it would be a shame not to Swedes love garden- switch to water transport in Stockholm. The traditional means of ing, and in the spring transportation is an ordinary kayak. It is simple to operate, stable, every house is and does not require physical training. There are many rental sta- surrounded with tions, for example, Kafé Kajak. It is better to rent a kayak for a day or dozens of different two. You embark on your journey with a walk around the Old Town, blooming trees, meet some ducks, wander on the canals, have lunch at a restaurant mainly sakuras with its own pier, and explore the archipelago in the white night. Having passed the test of the kayak, you can progress to the row- boat or motorboat.
www.kafekajak.se SEA BATHING
SWIMMING WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS
The most popular place for swimming is at the dock directly in front of the Town Hall, but with the onset of summer the Swedes begin diving into the water anywhere quays and decencies allow. Special wooden walkways are installed throughout the city for the citizens to dive from. They swim with masks, snorkels, scuba gear and inflatable mattresses, to the cries of seagulls and the sound of Friday discos. They swim regardless of gender, age, and even water temperature: the Swedes are frost people. Try and dive from the pier near the Town Hall.
5C3 Try to dive from the pier near the Town Hall
FISHING
THE SWEDISH NATIONAL SPORT
Not as businesslike as in Finland, not as tacky as in Istanbul, fishermen in Stockholm are ordinary citizens who do not consider themselves crazy at all, and may be offended if you poke your finger at them or insist on a photo. The usual fishing spot is right in front of the Parlia- Alexander Piatidis, ment; the usual catch is salmon. You do not need a license for fish- Specialist of Interaction with ing, rods are sold on every corner, and they say that someone once Users of Nordea Group caught a fish weighing 22 kilograms under the windows of the king.
5C3 The main place is the marina in front of the Royal Palace HELLASgårdEN and the Parliament Country Club a 15-minute drive from Stockholm. Here, everything is designed in the folk style; you can take a tra- ditional sauna and even swim in an ice-hole. Other activities to partake of are, for example, ice skating and cross-country skiing, but you have to bring your own equipment.
Ältavägen 101, 131 33 Nacka
53 WALKING
LET’S GO SAILING ROUND THE ISLAND
VI TAR EN BÅTTUR KRING öN
[ VEE TAR EHN ˋBOTTˋYOOR KRING ˋEHN ]
The archipelago of Stockholm consists of 24 thousands of islands, where you can spend a great weekend, or a lifetime. In the summer all of the city’s social life moves to the island of Sandhamn; there is no elec- tricity on Svartlöga, but you can put up a tent among the rocks at the bott om of the gorge; Bullerö is a preserve with dozens of species of birds; on Huvudskär you are un- likely to meet a living soul, except for seals. SANDHAMN ISLAND
TENNIS AND YACHTING AN HOUR’S RIDE FROM STOCKHOLM
You can get around the island’s perimeter in several hours, but it merits a month’s stay. The only fishing village is occupied by yachters: it is the headquarters of the Royal Yacht Club of Sweden and the Gotland Regatt a is held here every July. The main entertain- ment is tennis, golf, diving and sport fishing, the latt er in Sweden be- ing no less prestigious than polo. The only hotel, Sandhamn Yachts Ho- tel off ers four-star service, including swimming pool, sauna, and spa. Still, the area has the idyllic countryside feel, the yacht-surrounded village is toy-like, the houses are painted red, the hills are covered with clear pine forests, there are almost no cars and the air is crystal clear. Buses to Stavsnäs from Slussen in Stockholm or about three hours by ferry from Strömkajen in Stockholm.
Buses to Stavsnäs from Slussen in Stockholm or about three hours by ferry from Strömkajen in Stockholm
55 WALKING
Ylva Andersson, PR Manager of Nordea Group
VAxHOLMSBOAT goes from the center of Stockholm to the small town of Vaxholm. The trip takes 45 minutes, during which you will drift past many islands and houses. In Vaxholm taste the delicious fish at the fish restaurant Melanders (if you are there in summer). SVARTSö Also visit the local castle, LOONS AND EAGLES RIGHT OUTSIDE THE WINDOWS OF THE PUB which once used to protect Stockholm from the attacks of About 80 people live on the island Svartsö year-round. In the summer foreigners. Nowadays the gates this number increases about a hundredfold due to an influx of tourists. of the fortress are open to all. One of the largest islands in the center of the archipelago, Svartsö entices residents of the capital with lakes for swimming, walking trails and bike paths. History buffs can see the old village Ahlsvik in the south of the island and the 18th century houses in its north. Nature lovers can observe gulls, herons, loons, and black eagles. For the rest there is a direct road to a great pub called Svartsö Krog.
Two hours by Cinderella ferry or by ferry to Vaxholm. On the way back you can hire a boat-taxi
FjÄDERHOLMARNA
FANTASTIC SHOPPING ON THE FORMER MECCA OF BOOTLEGGERS
The Fjäderholmarna group of islands is like the Stockholm archipelago in miniature. It has everything those islands are famous for, from pic- turesque bays and sea villages to a bird sanctuary and museum of an- cient ships. But most importantly, the local places are known for the crafts. Many artists, potters, glassblowers, and textile manufacturers open studios on the islands so it’s worth coming here even for the sake of shopping. Besides, originally Fjäderholmarna became known for benefits associated with shopping. To escape Stockholm taxes, the Swedish vodka king Lars Ollson Smith opened a major vodka sell- ing facility here, later called Absolut. Those wishing to have a drink were taken to the island on free steamers from Stockholm every half an hour, and all night the sea around Fjäderholmarna echoed with funny drinking songs.
20-30 minutes by Fjäderholm line boats, www.fjaderholmarna.se
56 WALKING
VAXHOLM
MUD BATHS ON A FASHIONABLE 19TH CENTURY RESORT
First inhabited during the time of the Vikings, in the 19th century 470 Vaxholm island became a fashionable summer resort for wealthy will be the age Stockholm residents. Now it’s an idyllic port town with well-pre- of the famous served early 20th century wooden villas, mud and salt baths, a pri- Vaxholm Castle vate mineral water spring and a couple of good hotels. 5,000 local in 2014 residents still earn their living basically by catching herring, which is then fried, baked and marinated in every restaurant on the island. You can increase your appetite by hanging out at Kastellet, an ancient fort in the sea near the coast.
40 minutes by bus 640 or one hour by ferry Cinderella.
57 WALKING
ON WHAT ROOF DID CARLSON LIVE?
VILKET TAK BODDE KARLSSON PÅ?
[ ˋVILKET ˋTAK ˋBOODDEH ˋKARLSHON ˋPOH? ]
A city of three elements, Stockholm lives on land, sea and air, and can be seen in a new way from each of them. Those who walk off the beaten track will see the capital in a totally unexpected light. Apparently, all the buildings in the city are colorful but the roofs are grey. The bridges are decorated not only on top, but also on the bott om. There is one step from the capital to the villages, and about ten steps between work and rest, from the off ice building door to the nearest boat. TAKVANDRING
TOURS ON THE ROOFS OF STOCKHOLM
The half-hour rooftop walk starts near the monument of Birger Jarl and continues across all of Riddarholmen (Knights’ Island). You will see neat grey roofs, the spire of the Riddarholmen church, the round towers of Wrangel Palace, the medieval outlines of the State Archives, and marvelous views of the surrounding islands. Tours are held in Swedish, English or German, only in the warmer months. All the participants get helmets and equipment and are warned not to approach the edge, not to look down, and that Carlson is not real.
Company Upplev Mer, Norra Riddarholmshamnen 5, www.upplevmer.se WALKING
Lena Hoglund Rosen, Corporate Social Responsibility TOURS ON RIB-BOAT Manager of Nordea Group AN UNEXPECTED WAY TO SEE STOCKHOLM FROM THE WATER CYCLINg This is the type of transport Speedboats are used on the lakes and canals of Stockholm from best suited for leisurely Gröna Lund to the Djurgården park; they can go to places where exploration of the beauty of conventional ships cannot, and move at a speed that will allow Stockholm. downtown there you to get to a remote island and back within one day. On a boat are many rental bike points; with inflatable sides, try to sit in the stern, very low by the water. you can rent a two-wheeled Shielded from sea spray, wrap up in orange life vest and watch how steed in one place and return strict building facades pass by. A special pleasure is a trip on an SC it in another, as you see fit. RIB-boat on the waves of the sea on a windy day.
Company RIB Sightseeing: Museikajen 1, www.ribsightseeing.se Company öppet Hav: Sjövillan, 208, www.oppethav.se
60 WALKING
65 km/h is the speed of RIB boats
MONTELIUSVÄGEN Christina Engblom, PR Partner of Nordea Group THE MOST RURAL VIEWS OF DOWNTOWN NACKA A 500-meter lane overgrown with hawthorn weaves high on the hill. I recommend getting out of It offers a fantastic view of Lake Mälaren, Stockholm City Hall, the the city and visiting Nacka, Old Town, and the island of Riddarholmen. The main thing making a commune near Stockholm. this lane a must-visit is the contrast between the rural environ- Here you can walk 4.5 kilom- ment (as if the path had been transported from a distant Swedish eters down a “cultural path” province) and the solemnity of the view. Meanwhile, back in the and admire ancient mid-1970s regular municipal gardens were here overlooking the architectural monuments. Town Hall, so when the architects started working on Montelius- For example, the Nacka vägen, the residents of neighboring houses rapidly and massively church, built in 1891, or the protested, refusing to make their own private view public property. wonderful building of the Svindersvik summer resort, 5C3 The southern part of the city is Sodermalm which first received guests back in 1740.
MÄLARPAVILjONGEN
THE IDYLLIC GARDEN ON THE WATER
A great option for an Olive Garden walk is a boat trip to the restaurant with an outdoor terrace on the Norr Mälarstrand quay. The main advantages are great views of the Strait of Riddarfjärden, its own olive garden, and a vast collection of rosé wine. Right by the tables there are three pontoons for visitors’ boats, so parties take place mainly on the water and you can spend hours rocking on the waves, watching the small boats sailing, and outstaring ducks.
5B3 Norr Mälarstrand 64, www.malarpaviljongen.se
61 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
THE BEST DIET IS STEAK AND A GLASS OF WINE
BiFF och ett gLaSS utgÖR den BäSta dieten
[ ˋBiFF oh ett ˋgLaSS ootyoR den ˋBeStah deeˋaten ]
When the Stockholm restaurateurs say that they use only “carefully chosen ingredients”, do take them literally. The pumpkin was grown in the garden next door, the apples are from their own orchard. Gustav caught the salmon south of the archipelago; the venison is from Christopher; the meat, poultry, and eggs are local. Traditional Swedish cuisine restaurants using farm products are the leading trend in Stockholm. ag ReStauRang & BaR
Bohemian caRcaSS meat
There is no individual entrance in AG, to get in you have to go through a long corridor of off ice building and walk up two flights to the door without a sign. Inside you will find a bohemian artistic audience, a stylish interior, and lots of meat. Carcasses hang on hooks along the wall; rib steaks, steaks, and burgers comprise the menu; the meat is from their own farms. Meat is worshipped here, and the menu is its holy hymn. The most amazing thing is that a place with carcass meat in the interior not only works as a restaurant and a nightclub, but also holds exhibitions and performances.
5B2 kronobergsgatan 37, www.ag925.se
63 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
nyagatan
cLaSSic SwediSh Food in the centeR oF SoFo
Toast with mushrooms, wild boar stew, cloudberry pancakes... Annakarin Persson, The food at Nyagatan is classically Swedish: heavy, hearty, and sim- Translator of Nordea Groupa ple. The restaurant is famous for its brawn and steaks, and for the overall quality of its products. They make it a principle not to use Grand hÔtel meat grown outside Europe, only pick cows grown outside, and care- If you are into culinary fully select their suppliers. Additional advantages include a relaxed delights, Stockholm has a lot atmosphere, a dark red interior with rice paper lanterns on the ceil- to offer. Michelin-starred chef ing and a young bohemian crowd at the tables. Mathias dahlgren runs the restaurant Matsalen and bistro 5C4 Skånegatan 84, www.nyagatan.se Matbaren at the Grand hôtel. the menu in Matsalen is more intricate, but if you do not feel like spending the whole evening in the restaurant (and spending much of your trip budget), go to Matbaren.
5C2 Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8
Lux StockhoLm
micheLin ReStauRant with FaRm PRoductS
"Anita comes in rubber boots from Marceau village on the Lake Mälaren once a week with a basket of fresh apples, plums, and pears. Bengt produces kegs of fantastic beer just for us. Without these and other farmers, hunters, fishermen, and gatherers of berries we could not do what we do,” says the website of Lux. Michelin star-awarded Lux reveals everything right away: a cooking island with stove stands in the middle of the room, the menu is divided into 16 seasons, depending on whatever is now growing and maturing in gardens and farms, and the producer farmers are indicated under each dish. We recommend that you start your dinner with oysters from the west coast, continue with roasted lamb ribs grown on Rofruktspuré Farm, and finish with yogurt ice cream from Eskesta Farm.
5А3 Primusgatan 116, www.luxstockholm.com
64 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
RoSendaLS tRädgåRd
homemade BRead in the aPPLe oRchaRd
This café in a beautiful greenhouse on the island of Djurgården looks more like a garden. The tables are right in the orchard under a canopy of old apple trees, vegetables are grown in the greenhouse or bought from verified farmers, and you do not need to book ahead because You can often buy there is always enough room, or in the extreme case you can have fresh homemade a picnic on the grass. Rosendals trädgård is famous for using only products, jams and environmentally clean organic products; they make great desserts and sauces directly bake their own bread in a wood-burning oven. Do not miss the small on the farms around store with bread and flowers that you can cut yourself in the summer. Stockholm
5E3 Rosendalsterrassen 12, www.rosendalstradgard.se
65 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
SPEND A ROMANTIC EVENING WITH ME
Jag ViLL BJuda dig På en RomantiSk kVäLL
[ ˋyah ViL ˋByood day Poh ehn RoˋmantiSk ˋkVeLL ]
Stockholm romance means picnics on the grass, sailing, or picking berries in the forests. Sea spray, old church spires, walking on rooftops. Memories of the deer you frighten in the park Djurgarden, and the delight of seeing the city skyline from the Town Hall Tower together... Of course, romantic evenings should be special in Stockholm restaurants as well. BRaSSeRie Le Rouge
the decadent game
Scarlet velvet to the ceil- ing, capacious armchairs, French menu with lobster and foie gras... Even in prim Stockholm there is a place for burlesque, kitsch and a game of decadence. Le Rouge Restaurant copies the atmosphere of the French restaurant of the early XX century, it is not clear if ironically or in earnest. Velvet curtains, huge chandeliers and expensive prices do not threaten the Swedes used to minimalism, and in the evenings the restaurant is full of those who prefer not to think that the love stories ended sadly in such places.
5C3 Brunnsgränd 2–4, www.lerouge.se
67 gondoLen
the BeSt PanoRamic View oF the city
Whatever Stockholm restaurants may offer prospective visitors, none of them would dare claim that it can offer a better view than Globen. Soaring above the entrance to the Stockholm harbor, the 23 gondola restaurant offers a panoramic 320 degree view of the Old kilograms was the Town and Lake Mälaren. Besides landscapes, you should come weight of the record here for the seafood and traditional Swedish cooking: homemade salmon captured black pudding, salmon baked with caraway, herring, and wild berry by Goran Larsson mousse. The hearty food balances out the romantic landscape. in the south of Sweden 5C3 Stadsgården 6, www.eriks.se
68 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
Marianne Andersson, Intranet Site Manager of Nordea Group PrInSen this lovely restaurant is worth a visit if only for a traditional Swedish dish called Wallenbergare, in honor FåFänganS tRädgåRdScaFé of Wallenberg, a family of famous Swedish bankers, chamPagne BRuncheS on a cLiFF toP who at one time had business relations with nordea. The café on the clifftop in the Seder-Malmö is a bit of a climb up a path along the sea, but the view is more than worth the effort 5C2 spent on climbing. Come here primarily for long brunches with mäster Samuelsgatan 4 champagne and oysters (also on the menu: Italian sausages, Spanish paella, Dutch herring, Swedish salmon, croissants, cakes, and a sepa- rate pancake table with a dozen kinds of pancakes). Another reason to come are the summer blues concerts: a wonderfully romantic way of greeting the sunset.
5D4 klockstapelsbacken 3, www.fafangan.se
heLin & VoLtaiRe
PatiSSeRie inSide the a caStLe
There is a summer terrace with a view of Djurgården outside, a fireplace, a bakery with fresh bread, a select choice of hot dishes and a great range of pastries, sandwiches and desserts. The produce is, of course, mostly from farmers, and they send desserts from here to all of Stockholm. The café building is styled like a medieval castle with towers and a spiral staircase. It is perfect for a romantic rendezvous, a first date, or a brunch.
5D3 Rosendalsvägen 14, www.helinvoltaire.com
69 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
I LOVE FARM PRODUCE
Jag äLSkaR ekoLogiSk mat
[ ˋyah ˋeLSkaR ekoˋLogiSk ˋmat ]
If the Swede buys milk, he is sure that it is perfectly fresh, the cow that gave it is hap- py, the grass she eats is eco-friendly, and the milking machine is convenient and causes no harm to the environment and the dignity of the cow. You can buy milk in the market instead of the store. Stockholm off ers many options for that. Apart from rural markets, there are many cute well-arranged vintage second-hand shops in Stockholm. ÖSteRmaLmS SaLuhaLL
the BeSt maRket in Sweden
Saluhall, a gastronomic theater in Otermalme, became a fashion- able place to buy products at the end of the 19th century. It was built in 1888 using the advanced technology of the time: it had its own steam power plant, a unique system of ventilation and heat- ing, and huge glass windows. The quality requirements for the produce were very strict. Stalls at Saluhall are passed down from generation to generation, unlucky traders are driven out, and the best farmers in the country want to take their place. Bett er come here in the morning. You can take pictures of stalls selling fruit and vegetables, linger in the cheese department, assess the catch in the fish aisles, buy handmade chocolate sweets with licorice, and then, light-headed from all the smells, order elk meat stew in one of the twenty cafés.
5C2 Östermalmstorg 114, www.saluhallen.info
71 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
LoPPmaRknaden 10 the BiggeSt FLea maRket in noRtheRn euRoPe SEK is the entrance Like any flea market, the catch at Loppmarkaden is unpredictable fee to the and often surprising: last-century toys, vinyl records ranging from Loppmarkarden ABBA to Mozart, cassette recorders, vintage clothing, dishes, dozens market on the of things of unclear background and purpose. It is best to come weekend. early in the morning on Saturday or Sunday. The entrance fee is very On weekdays, small these days, but the market is large and diverse. Plan to come entrance is free here in advance: the journey from the city center takes about half an hour, and you are likely to spend another three hours at the market.
Fjärdholmsgränd 4, www.loppmarknaden.se
72 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
hÖtoRgShaLLen
oRientaL BaZaaR downtown
Ostensibly a regular trade area with flowers and fruits, Hötorget is quick to reveal hidden surprises. The first is the overwhelming spirit of the bazaar which is, to put it mildly, unexpected in prudish Scandinavia. Be ready to be addressed in a mixture of ten languages, bargained with desperately, given things to taste and gifts, and even proposed to. You will find an additional surprise if you go down a secret passage under the cinema Sergels Filmstaden. It is the indoor market Hötorgetshallen, which sells Turkish mezze and kebabs, Latin- American sausages, Iranian dried fruits, and the apotheosis of all — fresh fish at Kajsas Fisk. Go on and take a smell of roasted halibut. Honestly, you will not go wrong. Note: Hötorgetshallen turns into a flea market on Sundays.
5C2 hötorgshallen 30, www.hotorgshallen.se
kuPan
Red cRoSS Second hand Marianne Andersson, Externally Kupan looks like a cross between a department store and Intranet Site Manager a flea market: books, clothing, furniture, crockery, paintings in heavy of Nordea Group frames, a few old toys and senseless tricks. In fact Kupan is a charity shop run by the Swedish Red Cross. All the goods here are donations BarBrO from regular Swedes, most employees are volunteers, and the prof- If you are interested its go to help the needy. This may sound amazing, but there are many in Swedish movies (both such shops in Sweden, and, apparently, they do bring a good return. documentary and feature There is no point in going to Kupan for something specific, but it is fi lms), you should visit the res- fun to just wander the aisles, chat with the vendors, leave behind taurant Barbro. It is a unique something you do not need, and have a coff ee and cake in the charity combination of a bistro, café in the shop. a cinema and a bar, so you can enjoy both a dinner and an en- 5C4 Östgötagatan 67с, www.facebook.com/kupansodermalm tertaining fi lm. however, make sure you check when a fi lm is screened, because they don’t show one every day.
5B4 hornstulls strand 13
73 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
IT IS TIME TO DRINK COFFEE!
FikadagS!
[ ˋFikadagS! ]
The word "fika" cannot be translated, but it means a friendly meeting over a cup of coff ee and a cake, and it is the most Swedish thing in the world. Sweden is famous for its desserts and sweets, but even more for its love of coff ee. They drink it here more than in any other European countries, surrounding it with special rituals and consuming hundreds of desserts, cakes, and sweets. Vete-katten
PeRFect Fika
One of the oldest and most famous pastry shops, Vete-Katten has been making desserts and chocolates since 1928, and you should start exploring Swedish traditional sweets from here. From the outside, the café seems small, but inside you can find a maze of rooms with buffets, bars, a counter, a shop and even a small open patio where you can smoke. In addition to desserts, Vete-Katten makes its own ice cream, pastries, and baguettes. There is even a chocolate department with French chocolates from Valrhona. However, the Swedes themselves often come here for clas- sic desserts like princess cakes, berry tartlets and Danish pastries.
5C2 kungsgatan 55, www.vetekatten.se
75 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
45 SEK is a cinnamon bun in Café Saturnus
SatuRnuS
the BeSt cinnamon BunS in the city
As restaurant critics repeat unanimously, Saturnus is the place where they make the biggest and the most delicious kanelbullar, traditional cinnamon buns with which every Swede begins his day. Do I need to explain that in the morning there are no empty seats at Saturnus? It is best to come here at brunch. Huge portions of cappuccino, pastries, baguettes, homemade granola, omelets, and salads... Statistically each Breakfast slowly turns into lunch, coffee is replaced with French Swede drinks wines, but Saturnus is never empty. “We try to make everything 200 liters of coffee fit, so sometimes we have to put chairs at the entrance,” the café’s each year website warns politely. As soon as you taste the coffee and pastries at Saturnus, you will understand the reason for its popularity.
5C2 eriksbergsgatan 6, www.cafesaturnus.se
76 RESTAURANTS, CAFES, MARKETS
xoko
authoR oF noBeL deSSeRtS
Supplier of sweets for the last four Nobel banquets, Xoko is simultaneously a café, a bakery, and a bistro. All things considered, they prefer to call themselves a “dessert bistro”, after the French style. Xoko has three main reasons for pride: homemade ice cream, chocolate, and bread made of special sourdough invented here. Besides, the menu includes a variety of desserts: from cheesecakes to traditional Swedish “squirrels” with cinnamon, vanilla, carda- mom, or whipped cream. Do not miss the handmade pralines with a champagne breakfast.
5B2 Rörstrandsgatan 15, www.xoko.se
Helena Genberg, Senior Project Manager of Nordea Group eSPReSSo SoSta BaR BaGel Street CaFÉ imPeccaBLe itaLian coFFee taste the pretzels in a roadside cafe. here they are not only Espresso in Sosta is very strong and very dark, leaving an aftertaste traditionally tasty, but also of almonds and evoking memories of Rome in the winter. With unusually large. a small cup you get a maple syrup toff ee or a piece of dark choco- late. Lingering is not accepted, and there is no place for that: cof- 5C2 fee in Sosta is taken standing up, baristas wear strict black ties and kungsgatan 35 blue shirts, and it is considered among regulars bad taste to order desserts. Among Starbucks-style coff ee houses that have inundated the city, the two Sosta bars are considered perhaps the only ones where you get classic Italian espresso, ristrett o and cappuccino. It is not that there are no other good coff ee shops in the city, but only here making coff ee is really elevated to a cult.
5B2 Sveavägen 84, Jakobsbergsgatan 5, www.sosta.se
77 SHOPPING
THIS DRESS SUITS YOU WELL!
DEN KläNNINGEN PaSSar DIG SÅ Bra!
[ DEN ˋKlENNINGEN ˋPaSSarEy SOH ˋBraH! ]
A place where dozens of trendy design- ers were born and where appearance is al- ways considered of the utmost reverence, Stockholm will not disappoint even the most experienced shopaholic. Garments by J. Lindeberg, House of Dagmar, Acne, Tiger of Sweden, H&M, Cheap Monday, and designs by Kosta Boda, Orrefors, Bruno Matson, Svenskt Tenn, Designtorget are famous all over the world, but only at home in Stockholm are they collected in maximum quantities and at the lowest price. Notice also the showrooms of young designers, as well as vintage clothing and antique details stores. PUB
OPENED IN 1882
Greta Garbo worked in the hats department. Vladimir Lenin bought the suit he wore to the Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labor Party in the men’s department. Rumor has it that he found his first cap here. PUB was opened in 1882 and be- came the first department store of the city, whose merchants were forbidden to trade. Now PUB is sig- nificantly modernized and filled with goods by leading Scandinavian designers, such as R.O.O.M., Himla, Housedoctor, Systrarna Voltaire, Tiger of Sweden, and a hundred others. Two floors of the department store hold cosmetics, two offer clothes, and another two are designer home wares. Unmissable.
5C2 Hötorget, www.pub.se
79 SHOPPING
NItty GrItty
a POPUlar cONcEPt-StOrE
One of the most fashionable shops in Stockholm, it was opened in 1991 as a response to the overbearing chains of repetitive department stores. The owners decided to make a concept store for which they selected dozens of brands after their own taste: from Carhartt to Jil Sander and Miu Miu: expensive and cheap, Swedish and foreign, popular and very new... The combination turned out to be unexpected and very innovative. As a pleasant bonus, the store has its own hair salon, and the atmosphere is much like a high-society club.
5B3 Krukmakargatan 26, www.nittygrittystore.com
7000 SEK is the price of a vintage Dior dress at 59 Vintage Store
NatHalIE ScHUtErmaN
Very tight fitting lOtS OF HaUtE cOUtUrE IN ONE PlacE jeans were also created in Sweden. Nathalie Schuterman’s buyers have for 15 years been picking You should buy them men’s and women’s clothes from the fresh collections of major in Cheap Monday and international high-fashion houses. Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Acne, where they Miu Miu, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Marc Jacobs were first made and others are gathered under one roof in the heart of Stockholm’s fashion district. The place is simple but conceptual: a classic selec- tion of brands, a low-key interior and rather a snobbish spirit.
5C2 Birger Jarlsgatan 5, www.nathalieschuterman.com
80 SHOPPING
The main shopping area of Stockholm is Norrmalm where the giant department stores — Åhléns, PUB, and Souk — are situated
Teresa Barklund, Digital Communication Developer of Nordea Group SPA AT THE GRAND HOTEL If you are tired of vigorous Stockholm shopping, why not relax at the spa. Visit the one in the basement of the Grand Hotel. The interior design is in the Scandinavian style, with wooden columns and mosaic walls with images of the Swedish nature. A Scandinavian spa is different 59 VINtaGE StOrE from other kinds in that the number of visitors is limited VINtaGE DrESSES FOr tHE rED carPEt so the pools and saunas are never crowded. A fabulous selection of clothes and shoes from the times of Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman, and Zara Leander. 59 Vintage Store only sells 5C3 evening dresses, boas, shoes and accessories from the 20–80s, in other Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8 words, only what is appropriate for flashes on the red carpet, and may have once been on it already. Prices for classic things by Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, and Gucci only rise with time, so do not expect 59 Vintage Store to have flea market price tags. But the store provides free on-the-spot size adjustments in a little tailors’ studio located on the premises.
5B2 Hantverkargatan 59, www.59vintagestore.se
81 SHOPPING
TROLLS BRING GOOD LUCK
trOll För lycKa mED SIG
[ ˋtrOll FEr ˋlUcKaH mEH Say ]
T-shirts with trolls, hats with elk horns, chocolate with cranberries, and jeans with the Acne logo. These standard souvenirs from Stockholm are seen everywhere and can be found in any Gamla Stan tourist shop. It is so easy to find Swedish designer household goods that you do not even have to come to Sweden for them. We off er several options for those wishing to bring home souvenirs that are simultane- ously unexpected and traditional and still very Swedish. SWEDISH clOGS
traDItIONal WOODEN SaBOt SHOES
Clogs (sabot) are shoes with a massive wooden platform and leather upper. In the Middle Ages they were the traditional footwear of peasants and artisans. But since the Swedish clogs appeared in the wardrobe of the star of "Sex and the City" Sarah Jessica Parker, and in a Chanel collection, it became clear that, firstly, clogs are now a popular choice for modern citizens. And secondly, this fashion is here to stay. The Swedish company Moheda makes classical clogs. You can buy them at the Åhléns City department store. For a more modern version by Swedish Hasbeens, look at such stores as Grandpa or Tjallamalla. www.ahlens.se, www.grandpa.se, www.tjallamalla.com SHOPPING
tOmtar & trOll
trOllS, GNOmES, aND SOmE WItcHES
The Tomtar & Troll website has only four sections: gnomes, trolls, witches, and angels. There is nothing more in the shop, but then, you do not need anything else. Trolls and gnomes are traditional characters of Scandinavian fairy tales. Everything that is sold in the shop is handmade by artists Kiki and Maya. Trolls differ from gnomes mainly by their thick hair, tail, and foul nature (at least according to Swedish tales). All trolls and gnomes come in every possible size. So far, the largest one is sitting at the entrance of Tomtar & Troll: there it is, fully man- or rather gnome-sized.
5C3 Södra Benickebrinken 4 , www.tomtar.se
FalU röDFärG PaINt
FalU rED PaINt
With the onset of spring and warmth tens of thousands of Swedes perform the same ritual: they take Falu red paint and paint their houses. Covering most Swedish homes, Falu paint is made of iron oxide from the Falun mine in Dalarna province, exactly as it was done four centuries ago. For many years, the paint was considered a symbol of prosperity; the townspeople were even instructed to paint their homes before the visit of the king. After the war, when the Swedes discovered acrylic paint, Falu was forgotten and has only recently risen again, thanks to young architects who began to use it in construction again. You can buy small gift jars of paint at the souvenir shop in Skansen park and use them on any wooden surfaces, be it a banal shelf from IKEA or an entire cottage somewhere near Moscow.
Djurgårdsslätten 49, www.skansen.se
84 SHOPPING
1934 is a famous date in the history of Swedish design. It was that year that the designer Josef Frank created his fa- mous Easy Chair 336. By the way, it is still produced and is im- mensely popular
SVENSKt tENN
claSSIc SWEDISH DESIGN
Svenskt Tenn is the go-to place for classic Swedish design by Josef Frank. His pillows, curtains, and trays can be seen in each Stockholm apartment, and the classic interior design cabin on Strandvägen Quay offers a fantastic collection of furniture, glass, ceramics, and much more. Fans of Swedish design will enjoy a visit to the shop, and anyone will love the colorful trays, brass candlesticks, brass dishes, and flavors for the home.
5C2 Strandvägen 5, www.svenskttenn.se
85 NIGHTLIFE
LET’S MEET AT EIGHT AT THE PARTY
VI ses KlOCKan ÅTTa pÅ fesTen
[ Vee ˋseHs ˋClOCKan ˋOTTaH pOH ˋfesTen ]
Despite their Nordic character, young Stockholmers, like most Europeans, love dance floors, club parties, and bars with dancing on the tables. On Friday nights, the life of the capital moves to the area of Slussen metro, to SoFo, and to Sture- plan at the border of Norrmalm and Östermalm. The first is down to earth and noisy, the second is stately, expensive, but noisy as well, and in both life does not stop throughout the weekend. Keep in mind that it is bett er to come to the clubs before midnight. By three or four a.m. the high life is quite finished, truly in the Nordic manner. berns
THe CenTer Of THe CITY’s HIGH lIfe!
Had this great baroque building in the middle of the Berzeli park been in London, it would surely have been turned into a museum. But in Stockholm they hung huge crystal chandeliers on its six-meter ceilings, put in leather chairs and mirrors and made one of the most fashionable places in the city. Now Berns is a hotel with 82 rooms, a restaurant, a cocktail bar, and a lounge with plush red sofas, several concert spaces, a roof terrace, and, in the basement, a private club called 2:35:1. Hip-hop and R&B musicians, Swedes and international celebrities alike, perform, sometimes simultaneously, in diff erent rooms of the club.
5C2 näckströmsgatan 8, www.berns.se
87 NIGHTLIFE
50 SEK is the average cost of a pint of beer in Stockholm bars Debaser slussen and clubs THe besT rOCK anD rOll Club In THe COunTrY
The club opened ten years ago, and since then its slightly ragged walls have seen Bob Dylan, Ryan Adams, The Strokes, Arcade Fire, Juliete & The Licks, Dizzee Rascal, and others. Concerts are almost every day; the repertoire varies from pop and indie music to very heavy rock. Swedish rock scene celebrities appear here often as well. Even if they are not on stage on a given day, they wander around the halls with beers in hand.
5C3 Karl Johans Torg 1, www.debaser.se
Café Opera
sTOCKHOlM nIGHTlIfe leGenD
Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Robert De Niro, Eminem, the King Carl XVI Gustaf, Britney Spears... According to the owners of Café Opera, all of them have visited here, and when you come inside the 18th century baroque building, you can easily imagine them here. A bistro and tea house by day, Café Opera changes at night into one of the most bustling Stockholm clubs. Under Café Opera’s crystal chande- liers and frescoes, those who are over 20 mix with respectable suited foreigners. Stroll around together in your evening attire; ogle local celebrities and visiting stars. They play mostly pop hits on the dance floors, but it seems more common to drift along here than dance.
5C2 Karl XII:s torg, www.cafeopera.se
88 NIGHTLIFE
sTureCOMpaGnIeT
fIVe DanCe flOOrs anD TOns Of sWeDIsH CelebrITIes!
Stockholm’s most famous club, considered a must by all local Swedish clubs celebrities (from athletes to Princess Madeleine), where paparazzi almost always have who fill the society column camp out. It is easy to find Sturecompag- face control, but its niet: just go out on Friday night in the Stureplan area and move to the main function is to sound. The club is huge, noisy, and usually crowded. Its two stories make sure that the include five dance floors, a bar, a restaurant, and a huge atrium. All visitors are over 18 this is in pink and purple interiors with marble and stained glass.
5C2 sturegatan 4, www.sturecompagniet.se
89 NIGHTLIFE
WHO IS UP THERE IN THE CHARTS?
VeM är pÅ försTa plaTs I HITlIsTan?
[ ˋVeHM eH pOH fYOsHTaH ˋplaTs ee ˋHITˋlIsTan? ]
A club for the Swede is primarily a place to listen to the music. The club profile does not guarantee that on a Friday there will not be a howling rock band here, replaced on Sunday with timid ethnic performers. Watch the posters and remember that you are sure to find something interesting even on Monday evening. Local performers merit particular att ention. Sweden has long been the supplier of the world’s pop stars, but you can also find Swedish rockers and jazz musicians in Stockholm’s clubs and bars. sTaMpen
THe COunTrY’s besT JaZZ pub
Jazz, blues, Dixieland, swing, rock and roll, rockabilly, R&B... Every day there are concerts on Stampen’s two floors, but it’s very hard to squeeze in. Founded in 1968, the city’s best jazz pub has seen no end of stars. The most famous Swedish jazz singer Monica Zetterlyund sang here, Woody Allen gave a performance during his tour, and American blues legend Tino Gonzales once came by for a beer, listened for a little bit, and then went up on stage and did a blues jam that patrons still get breathless about.
5C3 stora nygatan 5, www.stampen.se
91 GöTa Källare
COnCerTs eVerY DaY
Two floors, three dance floors, three bars, five VIP rooms... Over a thousand square meters of a club that has been dancing and 10 drinking since 1939. The music varies from disco to hip-hop, from ABBA songs took the Swedish pop to ethnic groups. There are live concerts almost every first place in world day, so if you have no plans on a Tuesday evening, why not look charts in different at Göta Källare’s posters. Amazingly, during the day the nightclub years works as a cultural center and hosts lectures, exhibitions, and les- sons in things like cooking.
5C4 folkungagatan 45, www.gotakallare.com
92 NIGHTLIFE
200 SEK is the most expensive ticket to a Stockholm nightclub
KäGelbanan
sMarT Club WITH panOraMIC VIeWs
Jain Birkin, Nick Cave, Gotan Project, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Gogol Bordello... Dozens of world celebrities have played at Kägelbanan, but oddly enough that is not the most interesting thing about it. Kägel- banan club and nearby partner Södra Teatern have seven stages be- tween the two, several bars (including Södra, one of the most beautiful bars in the city), a restaurant, and a summer terrace. Here they screen Good live music movies, stage plays, organize debates or, for example, lecture courses is found not only on child development, all in all around six hundred events per year. It is at clubs, but also nice to dance, listen, drink, argue, and just sit on the Kägelbanan terrace in bars and churches, with a book, sometimes glancing at the city: the club is carved into a tall and even in hotel cliff, and you can see half of Stockholm from the height. lobbies (e.g., Scandic Malmenin 5C2 näckströmsgatan 8, www.sodrateatern.com in Södermalm)
lanDeT
COnCerTs Of YOunG MusICIans
Landet Club miraculously combines two images. Most of the week, it operates as a restaurant, which is known for its classic Swedish dishes, and it regularly re- ceives awards for the best cooking and the best bar. But in the evenings between Wednesday and Sunday, it is filled with young, yet unknown artists and DJs that promise eventually to become international stars, and has perhaps the funnest parties in the city. On a separate note, the super popular Landet is in the building of the School of Art and Design, far in the settlements in the working-class sub- urb Midsommarkransen, but it is worth every minute spent on the road. lM ericssons Väg 27, Midsommarkransen, www.landet.nu
93 NORDEA GROUP
Nordea Group is a leader in the financial market in the YEAR 2012. THE MAIN ACHIEVEMENTS Scandinavian countries and the Baltic states. The Group is represented in 9 home markets: Sweden, Norway, Finland, The title "Bank of the Year" in Finland and Denmark Denmark, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Russia. Nordea Recognizing the merits of Nordea, which continues to develop as a customer- shares are listed on the stock exchanges in Stockholm, Helsinki oriented banks, The Banker Magazine named it the “Bank of the Year” in Fin- and Copenhagen. land and Denmark. Nordea is on the list of 29 systemic banks in the world (G-SIFIs), published by the Financial Stability Board. Recognition as the most reliable Bank in the Nordic countries Global Finance Magazine annually names the 50 safest banks in the world. Nordea has eleven million customers in more than 1.000 At the end of 2012 Nordea ranked 20th in the world and fi rst in the Nordic branches. countries. As of December 31, 2012, Nordea Group’s capital amounted to 28.2 billion Euros, while its assets amounted to 677.4 billion Euros. Nordea Group is named the best bank for private clients Euromoney International Financial Magazine named Nordea Group the best By capital Nordea Group is among the 43 largest credit institu- bank in the fi eld of private banking in the Nordic and Baltic regions in 2012. For tions in the world (according to The Banker Magazine, July 2012). the fi fth consecutive year, Nordea leads the ranking of the prestigious magazine.
Nordea Group has won the annual competition of the fi nancial magazine EuroWeek Nordea Group won two prestigious awards — “Best arranger of Nordic loans in 2012” and “Nordic deal of the year”. The contest results confi rmed Ratings of the Group according to rating agencies Nordea Group’s strong position as one of the leading players in the fi nancial market. Short Long Moody’s Investors Service P-1 Aa2 Standard & Poor’s A-1+ AA- Fitch F1+ AA- DBRS R-1 (high) AA-
94 National Bank Award 2012 for "E ec- tive management of the bank"
OJSC NORDEA BANK
Nordea Group holds 100% of the shares of OJSC Nordea Bank. YEAR 2012. THE MAIN ACHIEVEMENTS The Bank has been operating in the Russian financial market since 1994 and is represented in 10 regions of Russia. Nordea Bank was rated “The most reliable Russian banks" by Forbes magazine At the end of last year, Nordea Bank took 2nd place in the group of banks Nordea Bank serves about 62,000 private and 6,000 corporate of the greatest reliability, which indicates the its fi nancial stability and the clients, including both Russian companies — the largest enterprises strength of its market position. The reliability level of 100 major Russian in leading sectors of the economy, and international corporations banks was determined taking into account the leading international ratings conducting business in Russia. agencies (Fitch, S & P, and Moody’s), the amount of assets and capital, the There are more than 1,500 employees at the Bank. volume of deposits and loans to individuals.
Nordea Bank is among the 30 largest Russian banks: the capital Long-term rating of OJSC Nordea Bank at the level BBB + amounts to 30.56 bln. Rubles, the assets amount to 274.47 billion Fitch Ratings has affi rmed the long-term Issuer Default Rating (IDR) Rubles (as of 01.01.2013). of OJSC Nordea Bank at the level BBB +, rating its outlook “stable”. This is the Nordea Bank is developing as a universal bank and o ers a full range maximum possible value for issuers operating on the territory of Russia. of products and services to companies and physical persons. The core of the Bank’s work with clients is professional and prompt Nordea Bank received the award "For the eff ective management of the bank" service, a ention to each client, maintenance of the high quality Nordea Bank received the National Banking Award in the nomination «For the standards of the European Group of Nordea. eff ective management of the bank» of the Association of Russian Banks.
Nordea Bank is one of the most attractive employers among fi nancial organizations Nordea Bank's ratings from Fitch Ratings Agency Nordea Bank took 5th place among banks and 44th place in the overall “Employers of Russia” Ranking. The rating included 608 participants, among Rating them the largest Russian and international companies. Issuer Default Rating (ISR) ВВВ+ Short-term Rating F2 Supports 2 Individual D National long-term AAA (rus)
95 NORDEA BANK OFFICES IN MOSCOW AND REGIONS
www.nordea.ru
MOSCOW VOLGOGRAD SAINT-PETERSBURG Central Office Operating Office Volgogradsky Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank Corporate banking of Rostov branch 19, Promyshlennaya Str., 198099 Building 1, 19, 3 UlitsaYamskogo Polya, 125040 56, Rokossovskogo Str., 400050 Tel.: (812) 747–34-30 (multichannel) Tel.: (495) 777–34 -77 Tel.: (8442) 777–111 Fax: (495) 921–25-03 (8442) 26–88-87, 26–88-84, 26–88-85, 26–88-86 Additional office Primorsky Premises 2H-11H, lit. A, Torfiyanaya doroga, 197374 52, Butyrskiy Val VORONEZH Tel.: (812) 441–21-96 Mortgage Lending Center Operating Office -consumer crediting and automobile crediting: (812) Retail banking Retail Banking 441–23-08 52, Butyrskiy Val, 127055 53, Moscow Avenue, 394016 -mortgage lending: (812) 441–23-66. Tel.: (495) 662–11-55 Tel.: (473) 261–11-17, 261–11-15 Additional office Tavrichesky Yamskoe Pole YEKATERINBURG Premises H-9, lit. A, Kirochnaya Str., 191028 Retail banking Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank Tel.: (812) 635–70-85, 635–70-86 4, Pravdy Str., 125040 31-k, Malyshevs Str., 620075 Tel.: (495) 777–34-77 ext. 2709, 2721, 2707 Tel.: (343) 286–01-50
Smolenskiy PENZA Corporate banking Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank 5/12, Smolensk quay, 121099 144 b, Suvorova Str., 440008 Tel.: (495) 777–34-77, (499) 795–11-20 Tel.: (8412) 26–00-53, 42–92-00
Southwest ROSTOV-ON-DON Retail banking Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank Building 1, 14, Nametkina Str., 117420 105/79, Pushkinskaya Str., 344007 Tel.: (495) 967–12-06 Tel.: (863) 255–97-87, 255–98-38
Sukharevsky SAMARA Building 1, 4, 1st Koptelskiy lane, 129090 Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank Tel.: (495) 777–34-77, (495) 280–02-56 138(a), Chapaevskaya Str., 443010 Tel.: (846) 333–1-333, 269–60-80 Serpukhovsky Retail banking SARATOV 38, Stremyanny lane, 115054 Branch of OJSC Nordea Bank Phone: (495) 745–60-77 65, Kiseleva Str., 410012 Tel.: (8452) 73–50-81, 73–51-33, 73–50-74 (fax) Kotelnichesky Corporate banking CHELYABINSK Building B, Kotelnicheskaya quay, 109240 Operating Office Chelyabinsky Tel.: (495) 723 75 35 of Yekaterinburg branch 66-B, Zwillinga Str., 454091 Tel.: (351) 218–38-98
The book is made through Company Afisha LLC, Atelier Afisha, atelier.afisha.ru Photographs Fotobank, Fotodom, Fotolink, Diomedia, Foto S.A.
OJSC Nordea Bank. General License of the Central Bank of the Russian Federation No. 3016