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YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT FULL SCHEDULE AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD

‘Lo people, and welcome to the 12th instalment The Reykjavík Grapevine of the Reykjavík Grapevine in the year 2008. I Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Opinion have just returned from a month long vacation, www.grapevine.is and things have changed a bit in my absence. A [email protected] The Great Wall of Iceland big change was made after last issue, when our www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine 06 An opinion by Alexandra Hertell assistant editor, Steinunn Jakobsdóttir, decided to Published by Fröken ehf. leave us in order to move to Ireland to study. She’ll Black Flag and the Art of Meditation be greatly missed here, but at the same time, I be- Editorial: 08 An opinion by Padraig Mara lieve she’ll be a great asset to the Guinness brew- +354 540 3600 / [email protected] ery. I also came back to find my office filled with Advertising: interns from countries overseas. They look like an +354 540 3605 / [email protected] innocent bunch, but I have a sneaking suspicion Publisher: Articles that one of them is running from the law. Still, I’d +354 540 3601 / [email protected] like to welcome them and express my hope that Staying Focused they will be on their best behaviour for the next Publisher: 06 An interview with mayor Grímur Atlason few months. Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson I hope this issue will be able to be of some [email protected] An Ode to Marijuana assistance to you during your stay in our city. At Editor: 08 Sólveig Anspach talks about her latest film the very least, you should be able to find some- Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] thing to do on Culture Night. We made sure of that, Assistant Editor: Where to Find Necro-pants if nothing else. As usual the festival should be an Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] 10 Grapevine takes the free walking tour incredible display of both artistic ingenuity and Contributing Writers: general public drunkenness. As director Eli Roth Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Cheap Reykjavík told the Grapevine in an interview in 2006: “I actu- Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] 12 How to eat burgers, bathe and be merry on the cheap ally have an idea for a horror film I want to shoot Ben H. Murray / [email protected] entirely in Iceland. It’ll be called Culture Night. I Editorial Interns: Reykjavík 2024? was here for the last one, and I’m basically going Marcus Walsh / [email protected] 12 Could Iceland’s fledgling capital have what it takes to host the Olympics? to get a camera and walk up and down Laugaveg- Oddur Sturluson / [email protected] ur… No, not killing anyone, just documenting the Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson / [email protected] Tropical Iceland insanity. I think that will shock and horrify people Stevie Ward / [email protected] 14 One steamy day, Iceland breaks the hottest temperatures on record more than anything in the Hostel movies” James Crugnale / [email protected] While things have improved slightly since Art Director: Please Yourself with an Elf 2006, due to better planning and larger festival Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] 14 Debunking elf-sex myths area, you should get ready for the party. Be care- Photographer: ful with the fireworks and remember that there is Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson (GAS) Wanted: Corpses or soon-to-be corpses a law against driving under the influence. And off- [email protected] 16 Icelandic artist seeks the dead for video installation roads. Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] The Man Who Created the Nineties Sales Director: 20 Sigurjón Sighvatsson interviewed Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Distribution: Concert Review THE COVER Þórir Gunnar Jónsson / [email protected] 24 Celestine, Momentum, Ask the Slave and Muck at Iðnó Proofreader: Jim Rice Concert Review 25 Stereo Total at Organ Press releases: [email protected] > h h j Z  Cd & '  ¶  ' % % - ; G : : The Future of Rock and Roll Submissions inquiries: 26 Is India the Next Manchester? [email protected] Subscription inquiries: There’s No Pressure +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 28 Gavin Portland interviewed General inquiries: [email protected] Art and Ice – a Difficult combination? 30 The Grapevine confers with three foreign artists The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a >XZaVcYZgh[ZZai]Z]ZVid[VgZXdgY"WgZV`^c\hjbbZg year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through 7g^c\i]ZDanbe^Xhid>XZaVcYL]ViLdjaY>iIV`Z4 >ciZgk^Zl/H^\jg_‹cH^\]kVihhdc"=daanlddYEgdYjXZg I]ZH^akZgbVcGZb^c^hXZh6WdjiL^cc^c\i]ZH^akZg Dragged to Rehab >XZaVcY^XJc^kZgh^i^Zh/6cigdYjXZY Add`^c\7VX`Vi

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Amy Winehouse won the drag show FULL SCHEDULE in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in 36 COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! part without the written permission of the publishers. Pride and Prejudice Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that 37 The Grapevine marched on Gay Pride PHOTOGRAPHY all information inside the magazine is correct, prices Jói Kjartans and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík STYLIST Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, Ellen Loftsdóttir Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key loca- Destinations MODEL tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions Benedikt Hauksson and tourist information centres. The Serene Act of Watching Whales THANKS TO 33 Whale watching is cool Hugo Boss & Augað You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are Siglufjörður pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the 34 Examining the Herring Era Museum in Siglufjör›ur writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

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COMIC STRIP BY LÓA HJÁLMTÝSDÓTTIR JÓN RÓSMANN MÝRDAL IS A PAINTER BUT ALSO ENJOYS EXPLORING THE ICELANDIC NATURE FROM THE SKY.

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CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUN 3, 210 GARÐABÆ, TEL. 533 3800 - CINTAMANI CENTER LAUGAVEGI 11, 101 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 562 7000 4 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

LETTERS Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected] or text +354 893 9589

Dear Páll, ing to lend you some of their staff to She knows what’s going on. She knows write their propaganda for you to pub- this is life and death situation that we I read your article in a recent issue lish - not least if you’re willing to cover are facing in this world. Iceland seems of the Grapevine and enjoyed it very up their origin. to be a safer place to live as America much. You say at the end that the team or Germany. I’m thinking of moving to will meet France on September 27th. Is I know that summer is busy at the Iceland. I’m a caregiver in a psychiatric this game being played in Iceland? My Grapevine - but when you start fucking home in Berlin where I’ve worked for 15 wife and I are coming to Reykjavik to up like this it’s time to sober up and go years. Do you know if people with my attend the film festival but I’m really to work. experience are needed in Iceland? I am eager to see a football match, and this really fascinated by your country. one sounds great. The other one I’m All the best, considering is the Valur match. Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Sincerely, Kevin Bodenhammer Hope you can help me with some in- Berlin formation. I’d dearly love to see some Dear Eirikur good football in Iceland and your ar- The Grapevine is always open for dis- Dear Kevin, ticle caught my attention. cussion and different viewpoints. It I think the care-industry in Iceland is never crossed our mind that everyone always looking for capable people. Es- Best, would agree with the statements made pecially foreigners, it seems, since they in this article, especially since it has man most positions of the sort in Ice- James McNally been a matter of much public debate land. I am not sure what that means, but Toronto, Canada since its publication. I am pretty sure that it is not positive. However, I would like to point out Dear James, that while Bergur Ebbi is a staff mem- Editor I think you would probably do best by ber on the Trade Council, and the Trade seeing the Valur women’s team. There Council did point a member to the com- you’ll get the best of both worlds really. mittee that published the report, these About half their players are members are two completely unrelated facts. I of the national team, but as an added agree that this connection should have bonus, you’ll get to see the great Valur, been mentioned in the interest of full dis- and make the pilgrimage to Hlíðarendi closure, and I would like to apologize to Stadium. (We here at the Grapevine our readers that we failed to do so. This steadfastly refuse to call it the Vodafone was an oversight, not a cover-up. How- Stadium at Hlíðarendi – corporate spon- ever, I do not believe that Bergur Ebbi sorship be damned). had any other intentions in writing this article than to present what he believes Editor to be the highlights of the report. But, as I stated earlier, The Grape- vine is always open for discussion and different viewpoints, so we are happy to Dearest Grapevine. continue to present other viewpoints of the aforementioned report should they Bergur Ebbi Benediktsson’s article ‘The be submitted. Image of Iceland’, in the [next-to] last That being said, I am deeply sad- edition of The Grapevine, is a pathetic dened by your comments regarding our disgrace to an otherwise decent pub- drinking behaviour. I have not made fun lication. Not only is the text pointless of your beard sir, so I would expect you drivel of admiration for the inane docu- to show us the courtesy of leaving our ment produced by the Icelandic govern- personal problems out of the equation. ment for self-glorification purposes, but the article fails to mention that popstar Editor. Benediktsson is not only the cutesy-pie frontman of Sprengjuhöllin but also a project manager for the Icelandic Reykjavík Trade Council, which is one of the par- Hi, ties responsible for the aforementioned I was always interested in Iceland since ‘inane document’. I sincerely apologize my father was stationed there during Welcome Card for my indignant moralism, but jesus World War Two for a short while and christ, should we be expecting articles loved the country. He had a ten Kro- Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, from high level government officials ner silver coin that my mother made on their own affairs in the future? Will into an Anhänger. I live in Berlin so I Public Transport and discounts. you commission employees of the for- use the word Anhähger for pendant or eign ministry to write articles about the whatever it’s called. But there are a few marvelous splendours of NATO-coop- Icelanders I’ve met in Berlin and in San eration? I’m confident that the minis- Francisco. Great people. Björk has be- tries of industry or education, justice or come a darling of the American patriot finance, health or business, fisheries or movement or I should say the liberty social affairs would be more than will- and freedom movement in America.

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The Great Wall of Iceland by Alexandra Hertell

When I first came to Iceland as a tourist two years Grímur Atlason: the future's so bright, he should be wearing shades. ago, I was astonished at how friendly everyone was, especially at dawn when liquor bottles had vanished into seeping mouths. My first night I walked around aimlessly until I got to Austurvöllur, where I saw a group of people attempting to play Staying Focused Twister. Apparently my facial expressions weren’t subtle because one of the participants came over A gravel dweller discovers his country and made the following remarks: “You must think us Icelanders are fucking crazy!” and the question I would hear from that day on: “How do you like Iceland?” My answers were: “No,” and “I have only Concert promoter, bass player, maybe the region offered a lifestyle that could suit ten have the opposite effect in the long run. We been here for a few hours.” I was immediately social pedagogue and recently the family. I even looked at some houses. And seem unable to look beyond four years in either when I got the job of Mayor in Bolungarvík, we direction, which is a problem. If we focus on the asked to join them in the rúntur, to take a toke, and instated mayor of Dalabyggð to drink my weight in vodka. It was a welcoming decided to jump at the opportunity. long term, if we look back twenty or thirty years committee befitted for a king or a member of the Grímur Atlason is a true jack of all And then you left Bolungarvík this spring and see what we could have done differently then, Rolling Stones. trades and has recently become a and became Mayor of Dalabyggð. we have a much better chance for success. Once I mustered up the courage to island powerful spokesman for Iceland’s Yes, after the majority in Bolungarvík burst and A lot of mistakes like this have been made, hop over here where the cool oozes unto the countryside. The Grapevine caught I had to abandon my post I was disappointed. I that have resulted in rural Iceland being drained polyphonic streets, I discovered the Great Wall wanted to continue with the of good people and left with a up with him and learned his take of Iceland. It is invisible to the naked eye but great work we’d been doing. So I negative vibe. And that’s per- nonetheless strong as steel. It is a subconscious on life in Reykjavík, outside Reyk- feel taking the job in Dalabyggð Dalabyggð is located two haps our biggest problem; we’re wall that maybe Icelanders aren’t even aware of. javík and the difference between is an opportunity to do that, in hours (153 Km) north of Reyk- stuck with a feeling of loss, with Or maybe I have x-ray vision because I come from the two. a way. javík and counts 700 inhabit- thinking about what’s wrong and a culture that is outgoing and loud to the point of As a born and bred Reykjavík ants. Its main municipality is what needs to be different. This obnoxiousness, but with those qualities comes an dweller, what is your experi- Búðardalur (pop. 249). The makes us forget what we have, open arms mentality. Tell us about yourself, your background and ence of living in these small region is very rich in history; the qualities of life that are right This wall is the arm lengths friendships that how you wound up becoming mayor of two towns? What are some of the it has been populated since by our doorstep. This is partly tend to form between Icelanders and foreigners small towns benefits and downsides in- the settlement of Iceland and a result to the quick transition living in their country. It is as if Icelanders are I was born in Reykjavík, but as a first generation volved? counts Leifur Eiríksson (“Leif Iceland went through, from be- one big tribe and the only way to join is through “gravel dweller”, meaning that my parents are It’s a good life. I felt very good in the lucky”) as one of its first ing a nation of oppressed farm- marriage or partnerships. Icelanders’ genuine emigrated to the city from the small towns they Bolungarvík, and I just moved to inhabitants. ers in huts to living in towns and friendliness, giving nature and curiosity towards originate from. As such, I have strong ties to the Búðardalur and am happy here. cities, elsewhere in Europe this foreigners still amazes me. I have actually made Icelandic countryside and spent all the summers Sitting by the window in the eve- development took much longer a lot of acquaintances because of where I am of my youth either in the small town of Raufarhöfn nings, looking over Hvammsfjörður, surrounded and was therefore more balanced. from and Icelanders wanting to know more about or at farms in the country. I have a degree in So- by mountains and valleys. This is a beautiful envi- But the future is bright for Iceland’s small my country, Puerto Rico. However, it has been cial Pedagogy and father a large family, with four ronment, and a good and wholesome one to raise towns, and there are many opportunities here. very hard to climb over that Great Wall from children. children. Shorter distances mean less time spent We just need to adapt to the current situation and acquaintance to friend. Upon talking to foreigners I started playing in bands in my teens and behind the wheel. That’s also very economical. build on that. People have already started looking who have lived here from several years to a decade, it quickly became apparent that I had a knack for This is the main difference between life in cities to life outside of Reykjavík; people can do their I have been told that they still deal with this great organisation and management, so I often over- and small towns is probably the simplicity of it, work anywhere now and if the smaller towns with divide and that falling in love with an Icelander saw that aspect. I also started promoting shows and therefore its quality, is much greater. their pristine environments are cheaper, healthier coincided with their kinship acceptance. through my school’s arts clubs; one of my first Of course life here has its downsides. There’s and more fitting for raising families, then why stay I admit that my expectations were high after ventures into that world was when I booked the no Bónus store in Dalabyggð, so we have to pay in the city? The future is definitely bright. having experienced such riveting conversations Happy Mondays to play here in 1990. I’ve held jobs three or four times the price for many household and drunken stupors (separately) with the in the care industry since school. For the last de- necessities. But I digress, complaining isn’t what Reykjavíkians. They were also high because the cade I’ve gotten more and more involved in the life here is about. It’s not about the bad roads or motto in my culture is “mi casa es tu casa,” which music industry, as a promoter, along with actively Internet connections, it’s about something else. It’s not about the bad roads or means my home is your home. Therefore I am participating in politics, representing political People tend to focus on the wrong things, com- Internet connections, it’s about used to inviting people into my life and my home parties [namely the Left Greens and the Left Co- plaining about trivialities instead of looking at the with great ease and joy. alition] in various boards and councils. Then, in big picture and what each place has to offer. Of something else. People tend I have chipped at some bricks and managed 2006, I was appointed mayor of [small Westfjords course it would be great to have a Bónus here, but to focus on the wrong things, a few peepholes and good friends at the other town] Bolungarvík, effectively starting my govern- an incessant complaints choir will not encourage side. As I squint with my x-ray vision, I can see the ment career. To sum it up, you could say I started them – or anyone – to come. complaining about trivialities Great Wall about to crumble. off in the care industry, moving along to the mu- What are some of the problems faced by Ice- instead of looking at the big sic business before settling in my current post as land’s smaller towns? mayor. But I still play music. The countryside’s biggest problem is probably the picture and what each place I’ve never been the “101 or death” type, so government’s regional policy, that’s been effect for has to offer. moving out of Reykjavík was an easy decision. 30, 40 or even 50 years. It is incredibly short sight- As I said, my base is in the countryside, and be- ed and mainly involves building roads that ensure ing there has always felt good for me. I attended local produce can be moved quickly to Reykjavík Ísafjörður’s Aldrei fór ég suður [I never went south] harbour, where it can be shipped abroad. This festival with my wife in 2004, and that was the first means that less value is created locally – it’s all time I visited the Westfjords, even though my fa- shipped to the capital. This is the dumb hand of ther was born in Súðavík. To put it plainly, some- efficiency at work; changes and things that may thing within me clicked and I started thinking that seem convenient and clever for the short term of- 40 years at the Nordic House Anniversary program August 22-31 Details at www.nordice.is

1968 REVOLUTION - REACTION 1988 GRAMMAR OF BEAUTY 2008 DESIGNING REALITY Friday August 22, 20:00 Tuesday August 26, 20:00 Thursday August 28, 18:30 Writers Sigurður Pálsson and Þórarinn Eldjárn In 1988 Thor Vilhjálmsson became the fi rst Icelander Solo show Sweet by performance artist re-visit ’68, the year of the student revolt, free to win the Nordic Council’s Literature Prize. With Charlotte Engelkes mixes cabaret, stand-up love – and the inauguration of the Nordic House writer Halldór Guðmundsson he discusses his and comedy and classical theater. Also, music by in Iceland. Pops make a comeback with popular other literary works of the period. Jazz by the Tómas Retro Stefson, Reykjavík! and FM Belfast. Art songs from the period. R. Einarsson band and singer Ragnheiður Gröndal. group 128 Hands in the Lobby.

1978 NORDIC CO-OPERATION 1998 CREATIVITY & SUSTAINABILITY 2018 THE FUTURE FROM NOW Monday August 25, 20:00 Wednesday August 27, 20:00 Friday August 29, 18:30 Björgvin G. Sigurðsson, Minister of Commerce and The environment came to the fore in 1998. Have we The next generation takes over the Nordic Professor Þorbjörn Broddason lead discussion made any progress? Þorsteinn Ingi Sigfússon and House, with performance group Kúmíkat and on Nordic co-operation and the role of the Nordic writer Andri Snær Magnason give their assessment. the bands Sykur, Ásgeir, Eysteinn & Sæji and House. Music program by members of popular Music by Hjaltalín and scenes from the solo show Danish group Skandals. pop group Stuðmenn. Sweet by performance artist Charlotte Engelkes.

CULTURE DAY / NIGHT BUILDING - DESIGNING - THINKING REYKJAVÍK JAZZ FESTIVAL Saturday August 23, Activities from 13:00 Sat-Sun August 30-31, 10:30 Saturday August 30, 19:00 Kite workshop for children, Nýhil’s 4th annual poetry festival, Third annual Alvar Aalto conference on con temporary archi- Faeroese big band Thórshavnar Stór Band performance by Island-Panorama, music by Steinunn Soffía tecture in co-operation with Jyväskylä University and the with clarinet player Haukur Gröndal. Skjenstad and Solmund Nystabakk. Architecture roundtable Alvar Aalto Academy. Language: English. chaired by Guja Dögg Hauksdóttir.

Free admission to events and exhibitions. The Library is open daily 12:00-17:00, exhibitions daily 12:00-17:00 except Mondays. Bistro Alvar A is open weekdays 10.00-17:00, weekends 12:00-17:00 and during events.

NORRÆNA HÚSIÐ - NORDENS HUS - POHJOLAN TALO - NORDIC HOUSE www.nordice.is tel: 551 7030 8 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 article by Padraig Mara interview BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO by gas

Black Flag and the Art of Meditation

By Haukur S Magnússon

Meditation, basically, is the act of ordering your conscious mind to shut the fuck up. It drops the mental engine down a gear and allows for com- plete focus or simple relaxation. If done correctly, it effectively empties your mind of bidden thought. This discipline has been employed by various spir- itual movements for thousands of years. In Islam, certain sects use music and movement to achieve this altered state of consciousness. In both Hin- duism and Buddhism drumming and chant have been utilised to aid meditation and bring on a state of trance. Christianity and Judaism prac- tice chant and ritualised movements to enhance prayer and to lose oneself from the conscious state. The experience of separation from the self found in deep meditation has long been held to be a step toward the divine. This heightened level of consciousness and the tools to reach it can be found in the secular world as well. You can find it, for instance, in Black Flag. As the 1980’s wore on Black Flag, the semi- nal California Hardcore band, evolved faster and on a drastically divergent course from its peers. movie still: local celebs fondle a goose. Beginning in the late 70’s as a standard double- time punk act, shouting about drug use and bore- dom, by the mid 1980’s they were what can only be described as a jam band, minus the flowery far-out connotations that term usually carries with An Ode to Marijuana it.The addition of a reliable rhythm section and the influence of Henry Rollins and his lyrics changed Sólveig Anspach talks about her latest film, Back Soon what Flag was able to do. As a pit-inducing band, Black Flag were nearly matchless; they knew how to give the kids the opportunity and the excuse for mayhem. However they were also able to lock The battle between Icelandic dir- wine being OK in movies but as soon as one lights just boss actors around and try to get what you into extended rhythms, bass and drums follow- ectors is getting more and more up a joint it’s horrific, is all-in-all stupid. want from them. In the documentaries you have ing each other with a martial accuracy that Greg There have been substantial rumours in Ice- to wait and see what your locutors have to offer fierce everyday but this August Ginn’s atonal, growling guitar work only compli- land that the actors have contributed more but not the opposite. The crew is also much small- mented. The combination of the musicianship the half-Icelandic Parisian Sólveig to the creation of their characters than is er than in the big productions and everybody gets and Rollins’s aptitude for lyrical ad-libbing during Anspach defies the patriarchy pre- given up, for example in the cases of Didda, really close, which lets you experiment a lot more. shows made Flag a sort of dark and aggressive vailing in the Icelandic film scene Krummi and Erpur. Is that only a castle made It’s more peaceful and you have more freedom. Grateful Dead. and premiers the feature film of sand? You’ve never lived long-term in Iceland so I’m The best example of Black Flag’s live work can be Yes, solely. Or at least I haven’t heard anything wondering what is it that draws you “home” “Back Soon”. The protagonist is a found on the album Who’s got the 10 and a half? about it. I actually asked Didda and makes you wanna make The set moves through a variety of the group’s rep- florid marijuana dealer and a lot if she weren’t scared people Icelandic movies with Icelan- ertoire, but it is track 13 on the disc which makes of controversy has surrounded the would think it was her own story, Name: dic actors and an Icelandic my case. Where most hardcore punk songs of the piece. Grapevine caught up with but of course her sons portray Sólveig Anspach crew? time clocked in at under two minutes, the med- her on the director’s weekend stop the characters of her character’s DOB: I’m born in the Westmann Is- ley Slip it In/Gimme Gimme Gimme lasts a good son and all, but she didn’t care. September 8, 1960 lands, and my mother is Ice- quarter of an hour. The songs, entirely dissimilar in Iceland to promote the flick on Didda doesn’t care what people Occupation: landic so I came here every otherwise, are linked together by the insistent the very appropriate inter-cultural think. Film Director summer in my youth. My sister drumming of Anthony Martinez and Kira’s coiled premises of Café Cultura [I noticed the pranksterish smile Films: who formerly lived in Paris has and intimidating bass line. The vocals and guitar on Sólveig’s face while she elab- Louise Michel (2009) moved over here and opened only help to push the beast along. After a few minutes wait I see the dark haired orated about these rumours and Back Soon (2008) the boutique “Kisan” so you So much about punk rock generally and director step out of the storm with an unsettled soon realised there was no point Stormy Weather (2003) could say all my family lives hardcore in particular is about connection to your look on her face. The first question she asks me, in asking any further. But wheth- Made in the USA (2001) over here which has to be quite environment. This medley takes that connection after having a sip of her macchiato, is whether this er they are factual or fabricated, Haut les coeurs! (1999) an attraction. When I’m plan- and severs it. For 15 minutes the drum and bass wasn’t supposed to be the hottest summer in Ice- the scenario seems so smash- Que personne ne bouge! ning a movie I often think about run a line that hardly changes while Ginn’s guitar landic history? After an interesting chit-chat about ingly real that I suppose it really (1999) how thoroughly Paris has been and Rollins’ voice squawk in and out like a drive the flaky climate in Iceland we move over to the doesn’t matter.] Barbara, tu n’es pas coupable filmed which makes me want to through speaker. The combination of drone and main issue: her controversial offspring. While I watched the film I (1998) film somewhere else. And Ice- howl effectively drops the listener inside them- really sensed a great deal of land seems to be the most up- selves; the songs induce a sort of ugly trance. Judging by the results, the filming procedure realism. And I think I wasn’t and-coming candidate. The effect is less about the mosh and much more must have been adventurous, but how did the only one who bought the concept. Is this Now you have shot on both French and Ice- about the head nod which typifies Black Flag’s you get the idea? How did it all begun? a goal you try to attain always or was it rather landic ground, is it different? And if so, could later work. By this point the band was less about Well, to tell you the truth it came into existence random? you grasp the basic difference between Ice- having the audience wreck the concert hall, they subsequently to sort of a melancholia but me and When I pull that off I really feel like I’ve succeeded landic and French co-workers? were more interested in wrecking your head. Jean-Luc Gaget had been writing a film which so it’s a general goal I would say. Like any other I Well, as you might have imagined the French are The state of trance or deep meditation is at didn’t turn out to be a success and so it was never need a wonderful script, but I always let the ac- more about talking, always deliberating this and its heart about a quieting of the inner dialog. How made. We were sitting at a small café in Paris ex- tors bring their own “gifts” to it, in order to make that, getting feedback and opinions on how to that level of relaxation is reached is up to you, tremely blue and I said: “let’s write another film, it more real and dynamic. To begin with I was a perform which can be OK, but the Icelanders are whether it be through Ravi Shankar or the mighty just for pleasure”. He asked me: “What kind of little scared when all these people had all these less about talking and more about doing. It’s hard- Black Flag. movie?” And I replied: “A film with Didda, Ólafía ideas, but nowadays I’m more at peace with that. wired in Icelanders I think, if you don’t just do it, it Hrönn, Julien Cotteraeu and you know, all these And more, I love it. Of course I have the last call won’t happen. people”. And so we decided to think up a story. but it’s always inspiring to see what people are Maybe it’s stupid to say but as it was written for thinking. Especially with this film. It was easy for pleasure it turned out be nothing but that. It’s the it was shot in HD so we didn’t have to worry about truth. spending vast amounts of money on actors trying The whole concept of wine be- The story itself is based more or less on real to be funny. ing OK in movies but as soon as background, how did that occur to you? Now that you’ve done only four feature films Well the background isn’t completely genuine, but but a whole lot of documentaries, how are someone lights up a joint it’s you know, a little. I wanted to make kind of a “road your aims evolving? Do you plan on moving horrific, is all-in-all stupid. movie” and I also wanted to turn my back to the entirely over to the feature section of the fact that most movies concerning drugs always spectrum? portray it as some evil phenomenon. And so I Well, not necessarily. I like doing a bit of this and made this flick where normal people are smoking bit of that. What I like about documentaries is your and it’s really not a big deal. The whole concept of urgent need to listen what people have to say. Not www.flybus.is ENJOY YOUR TRIP WITH FLYBUS The Flybus airport shuttle will take you from Keflavik International Airport to Reykjavik city and vice versa. The Flybus is connected to all arriving and departing flights at Keflavik airport. Seats are always guaranteed.

WE‘LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND

RE-04 RE-80 RE-05 Golden Circle Blue Lagoon Express Glacier Adventure Reykjavík Grand Don’t miss out on the fascinating experi- A peaceful time in the Blue Lagoon is the Want to add some excitement to your Excursion ence the Icelandic Golden Circle gives perfect start or end to your holiday in visit to Iceland? What about snowmobil- Get to know the capital with an expert by you. On this tour we take you to the Iceland. We offer many trips a day and you ing on a glacier with a wonderful view your side. We take you around Reykjavík geysers, the famous Gullfoss waterfall can either go straigth to the airport or go over the south coast! This tour will com- with a guide and show you the highlights along with a visit to Þingvellir National back to Reykjavík. So take a dip in the Blue bine your need for an adrenalin rush with of the city. The tour ends at the National Park. This tour is a must to make your visit Lagoon and feel rejuvinated afterwards. the Icelandic landscape. Museum of Iceland where you can see to Iceland complete. Icelandic culture at its best.

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RE-81 RE-24 RE-08 RE-15 Take a Walk on Gullfoss and Geysir Saga Circle South Shore the Ice Side Direct This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiast. Adventure On this tour we take you around the area Want to see and feel something com- If you want to spend your afternoon in This tour takes you along the sandy coast- where one of the Icelandic Sagas took pletely different? Why not take a walk the countryside join this tour with us and line of the South with a taste of Icelandic place - along with enjoying spectacular on a glacier and experience a surface we will show you two of Iceland’s most nature. On this tour you breathe in the landscape. Come and follow the footsteps that you have never been able to walk famous attractions – Gullfoss and the fresh air by a black beach just before see- of the Vikings with us. on before! Take a tour with us and try geysers. Make sure you don’t miss out on ing striking waterfalls that mesmerize you something new - a once in a lifetime this one. while gazing at them. experience for most.

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BSI Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / Phone: +354 562-1011 / [email protected] / www.re.is 10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 article by Desiree Andrews article By Haukur S Magnússon — illustration by hugleikur dagsson

Where to Find Necro-pants

If you’re like me, a new arrival to Reykjavík, the free walking tour that leaves from the tourist info centre on Aðalstræti is worth the time. It helped me get my bearings around town and was loaded with important cultural and historical facts, for example, I now know that Iceland was once famous for breeding the world’s best hunting hawks. At two-plus hours, the walk around town at times felt a bit long. It promised to cover all the main sights of Reykjavík, which it did, but it could easily have accomplished this in an hour. However, tour guide Jónas Freydal’s blunt, savvy and often subversive observations about sex and politics in Iceland made for a tour that was as entertaining as it was informative. Freydal was quick to mention that the tour has no sponsor (i.e. there would be no two-for-one coupons to substandard restaurants or shameless promotions of chintzy gift shops,) which was a refreshing new take on the word free. Instead, he gave away valuable local secrets such as where to get cheap souvenirs and the best place to buy used wool sweaters. He also pointed out local shops and encouraged us to stay away from tourist marbendill laughs at the silly human. traps. This made the experience feel more like a local friend showing us around rather than a tour guide. Highlights included a look at the oldest house in Reykjavík, a stop at a graveyard—now Yet Another Icelandic Monster: Marbendill covered in pavement in the city centre, and a nice view of Tjörnin pond. They’re not as evil as Nykur While the sights were a great way to be introduced to the city, Jonas’s personal touches made the tour unique. He compared the more dreary sections of the city’s architecture to “a Last issue, we learned about fatal underwater time; there are records of Marbendill encounters This prompts the Marbendill to laugh a third bad day in Eastern Europe,” told us where to find horse Nykur, who likes to lure folks to a watery in Landnámabók, the book that tells the tale of time, perplexing the sailor further. Enraged, he “necro-pants” (trousers made from stripping the grave using a combination of charm and adhe- Iceland’s first settlers. finally asks the Marbendill: “What’s so damn fun- skin of a man’s lower half including testicles, in sive skin. This week’s amphibian is an altogether Marbendill is a wise and mysterious being, ny?” Our amphibian antagonist strikes a deal with order to obtain his luck,) and a added taste of his more benign being; although he’s still kinda almost oracle like in character. Indeed, Marben- the sailor, promising to disclose if he returns him own personal theology. sinister, the Marbendill has no interest in luring dill-tales almost always involve him negotiating to the ocean from whence he came. “I laughed If you like free things and you want to be let anyone and mostly wishes to be left to his own his way out of captivity from a fisherman who’s the first time because you kicked your dog, who in on little of the city’s more interesting secrets, devices under the sea. caught him by accident and decides to keep him. loves you more than life itself. Then I laughed for then this tour is for you. Best described as a psychic, slightly weird One story goes thusly: that hillock you cursed holds a great buried trea- Merman, most tales describe the Marbendill as As a Marbendill was being dragged to land against sure. Your antipathy towards it thus amused me. humanoid-like from the navel up, with his bottom his will, his captor’s dog rushes to greet them. The Lastly, I laughed at your affection towards your Leaves every day at 13:00 from the Tourist half reminiscent of a seal’s. He is a marine crea- captor, a farmer-slash-fisherman, gets annoyed wife, for she is a cheating whore who wants you Info Centre on Aðalstræti. The tour is free of ture and doesn’t like leaving the ocean. Sight- and kicks at the dog, which leaves the otherwise dead.” Needless to say, all of the creature’s proph- charge but the guides happily accept tips. ings of the beings thus only occur when they get quiet Marbendill laughing. Walking home to the ecies came true, and the fisherman had great for- caught in fishermen’s nets – or when their bodies farm, the sailor stumbles on a hillock and yells tune after following its advice. drift ashore post-mortem (there are also reports out a loud curse. Again, the Marbendill laughs. of them being found in sharks’ bellies). Apparent- Finally reaching his home, the sailor is greeted by ly, they’ve resided in Iceland’s waters for a long his wife, whom he kisses and hugs back. article By Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO by gas

The Foreigner’s Guide to Icelandic Colleges

Many consider the choice of studying in Iceland the Arts is a good option. The recent outburst in ar- as somewhat of an oddity, but the main attraction tistic excellence in Iceland can partly be blamed must lie in the modest tuition fees and the rather on this fine institution, which has practically lenient admission qualifications. These facts raised the bulk of Icelandic artists, but the tuition could possibly undermine one’s expectations to is a little high. Their design, music and theatre de- a decent study on this isolated island, but it turns partments are outstanding although some might out Iceland’s education establish- find the lack of departments such ments are doing OK. Now when as film and photography demot- the school season is quickly ap- For further info: ing for the school’s reputation. proaching it is appropriate to www.hi.is If you’re more into busi- find out what it is exactly that www.lhi.is ness-wise education, the newly they are offering. www.unak.is founded business academy next It’s wise to begin with the old- www.ru.is to Reykjavík’s beloved Commerce est and most established college in www.bifrost.is High School might arouse your Iceland, the University of Iceland. It attention. It has attracted all the offers the most versatile studies in yuppie kids with stockbroker their numerous departments. Their medicine, en- dreams in recent years. In order to prevent com- gineering and law departments are the most pop- mon hillbillies from attending the establishment ular and they have the luxury to pick out the most they decided to have that tuition sky-high eligible applicants out of the hundreds that apply These three establishments basically grasp every year. The other departments are however the college scene in Iceland but there are several open to all and are equally prolific. There is no tu- smaller institutions, such as Akureyri University ition, but the registration fee is 45.000 ISK per year. and Bifröst University. So if you’re thinking about If you wish to try your luck in the dangerous studying here it is apparent that the selection is perimeters of the arts, The Icelandic Academy of vast indeed. the university of iceland offers versatile programs. Special o er for rst time buyers. o any15% purchase Just type “grapevine” when checking out.

nammi.is nammi.is is an Icelandic webstore with a large portfolio of Icelandic products online. 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

Cheap Reykjavík article BY james crugnale

REY KJA VÍK

20 24 Eat Burgers, Bathe and be Merry

By Haukur S Magnússon

Welcome to yet another instalment of Cheap Reyk- javík, where the Grapevine’s resident misers share proposed reykjavík 2024 logo: at least it's better than london's. some of their patented money saving tricks and tips. If you’ve got some miserly penny-pinching advice you’d like to share with Grapevine readers, drop a line to [email protected]. and he will pass it along. REYKJAVÍK 2024? Cheap Bathing + Reader Tip Could Iceland’s fledgling capital city have what it takes to host the Summer Olympic Everyone loves Iceland’s swimming pools. They offer excellent facilities for all of your bathing and/ games? The Grapevine investigates the odds or swimming needs for a fair price. They are also great for socialising; bringing a group of friends together in a Laugardalslaug hot tub is certainly a lot cheaper than doing so at a bar (you tour- With serious concerns over Bei- How Does Reykjavík Stack Up? ther adequate facilities (for 28 sports) including a ists should also note that the pool is an excellent jing’s smoggy skies, human rights Accommodations large, required velodrome. Splurging millions of place to get to know the locals). Reykjavík would begin its bid with a huge disad- dollars on these may be risky as there’s the peril While swimming and hot-tubbing in Iceland records and oppressive policies vantage, coming up way short of 40,000 required of white elephant stadiums sitting around unused is relatively cheap at 360 ISK per go (less if you’re regarding free speech and Internet hotel rooms with only 3,382 total hotel rooms and for years after the fact. a kid or a senior), there is a way to make it cheaper access, is it time to bring the Olym- guesthouses in the capital region and 8,874 within still. By buying admission in bulk, you get 30% off pics to an environmentally clean, the rest of the country, according to 2007 data Cost each go – a ten-trip pool card can be bought at politically benign city? Like say, from Statistics Iceland. The cost to hold the Olympics varies widely. For any pool’s front desk for only 2500 ISK. During the This could be perhaps the most significant this year’s Olympics, Beijing spent an astronomi- school season, university students can get their Reykjavík? hurdle, as many additional hotels would need to cal $58.5 billion. In comparison, in 2004, Athens passes for even less through the Student Union, so be built. In addition, a suitable location for the spent a mere $11.6 billion. It should be noted that keep that in mind. While the idea may seem absurd at face value, Olympic village would need to be established. Iceland’s entire GDP, as of 2007, is $16.9 billion. In- Here is an extra pool trick, courtesy of read- Icelandic political representatives believe such Laugardalur would appear to be an ideal fit with tricate planning is crucial to whether games are er Stephan: “If you want to work out for cheap in an event could be potentially feasible if a spirited nearby proximity to World Class gym (one of Eu- a financial disaster or a success. Many host cities Reykjavík, you can go to Sundhöll Reykjavíkur on campaign for it would ever get underway. Other rope’s largest at 18,000 square meters) and other continue to pay off their debt for years. Worst case Barónsstígur. They have weights and other work- international cities with half the resources as Ice- premiere sporting facilities close by. scenario: Montreal, which held the games in 1976, out stuff that you can use for free, before relaxing land are considering bids, including the longest of spent 30 years paying off the debt from its Olym- in the hot tub or on the sun terrace.” long shots, USA’s Birmingham, Alabama (!). Travel infrastructure pics. Best case scenario: the 1984 games in LA Additionally, the benefits that such an event In the whole year of 2007, there were 294,279 to- scored a net profit of $200 million. “The financial Cheap Burgers would provide to the nation would be more than tal international overnight visitors to the country, resources could be a weak link,” said Ármanns- Some days, your system starts screaming for ham- worth the cost. The UK is expecting a £2.1 billion meaning that on average, 25,000 typically visit per son. “But it is very likely that other Scandinavian burger, and it won’t let up until you satisfy your boost in tourism from London hosting the games month. The Summer Olympics attract approxi- countries could help.” If Reykjavík could manage savage craving for the bloody ground meat of in- in 2012. With money like that and a worldwide mately 2 million people for a few weeks. Currently, to be relatively thrifty, especially in comparison to nocent mammals topped with delicious melted spotlight shone upon it, the games could trans- a massive influx of people that size would certain- China, money might not be a huge liability. cheese, sandwiched in a moist bun. Unfortu- form Iceland forever. Ministry of Culture advisor, ly bring Keflavik International Airport to its knees nately, your health and conscience aren’t the only Óskar Þór Ármannsson, would strongly support in a colossal standstill. An enormous incursion The Verdict things you need to sacrifice to quell that craving an Olympic hosting proposal if it were brought of people would also require light rail to be built Today, imagining Reykjavík hosting an Olympics here in Iceland – hamburgers are a luxury item on up. While he does acknowledge the quixotic na- between the international airport and Reykjavik. the scale of Beijing would be an incredible logisti- this island and are priced accordingly. ture of such a bid, Ármannsson says that with the Fortunately, proposals are currently underway cal nightmare never before seen by man and there Lucky for us, the good people at Njálsgata right amount of grassroots support, “it could be as twelve MPs earlier this year proposed feasibil- remain scores of obstacles before the city can corner store Drekinn have been supplying Reyk- possible.” ity studies of bringing trains to Iceland. Addition- even think about hosting an event anywhere close javík’s downtown dwellers with fairly priced burg- ally, the currently underutilized Strætó bus system to that scale. However, in due time, perhaps the ers for a long time now, and although the bastards Olympic Requirements would be a beacon for visitor access. city, with the right positive attitude and panache, just raised their prices, they’re still pretty cheap. When starting a potential – and expensive – Olym- can seriously approach this task and be able to A cheeseburger, fries, soda and cocktail sauce go pic bid, it needs to be a comprehensive and strate- Sports Experience compete up there with the formidable big dogs. for ISK 790 at Drekinn these days, and if you feel gic mix including stadiums, accommodations and While Iceland has had limited experience holding Ármannsson, at least, remains optimistic about like splurging you can add bacon to the mix for other resources. Olympic officials consider a city’s international sporting events, it has a few under the future potential of hosting the games and says an additional 100. Groups and family types can elaborate vision for the games including its copious its belt, including: the 1995 World Men’s Hand- to never count out the little guy. “I think for Reykja- make good of their value pack that gives you four blueprints on the construction of an Olympic Vil- ball Championship (which hosted 24 teams from vik, it would not be an unsolvable problem.” cheesy ones, fries, etc. for ISK 2.380. Now, if you’re lage and even the mascots representing the cities around the world); the annual Landsmót Horse having a particularly bad fiscal month, you can al- are weighted in on the final decision. Show attracting 6–7,000 people yearly; and the ways opt for Drekinn’s surprisingly decent micro- “You have to draw up everything so the globally acclaimed Reykjavik Marathon, annually wave burger combo, which is a steal at ISK 550 Olympic Committee can evaluate each city,” says held in August. With 11,500 participants expected Today, imagining Reykjavík host- Ármannsson. “I think the way the city can be pre- this year, roughly the same number as Olympic ing an Olympics the scale of Bei- Cheap Beer sented will play a major role in deciding whether competiors in Beijing this year, the Marathon at- Belly’s of Hafnarstræti may not be Reykjavík’s nic- Reykjavik has a feasible chance.” tracts around 1,080 athletes from abroad, with ad- jing would be an incredible lo- est bar, but they do serve Reykjavík’s cheapest There are several rigid prerequisites that an ditionally a few thousand international spectators gistical nightmare never before beer. Besides, who needs nice when you’re drunk Olympic host city must fulfil. They must have at attending. and poor? Where most clubs and bars dispense least 40,000 hotel rooms in the 3-star, 4-star, and seen by man pints of the yellow stuff at an offensive 750 ISK, 5-star categories. They also must have appropriate- Venues Belly’s proves itself the poor drunkard’s friend ly sized venues for all 35 Summer Olympic sports. A Reykjavík currently has 7 stadiums (6 football and with 450 ISK beers that get you just as wasted candidate city also must show wide public support 1 hockey) including its largest, the national arena, as you like. This is why Belly’s is the underpaid in a poll commissioned by the bid committee and Laugardalsvöllur. Many of these can be renovated Grapevine staff’s favourite place for passing out then guarantee the financial success of the games. to handle different sports, but there would be a on weekdays. Go Belly’s! lot of catching up to do in terms of building fur- Álafoss - outlet Álafossvegur 23 Þingvellir Mosfellsbær (C.a 16 km away from Reykjavík on the road Mosfellsbær to Þingvellir)

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Please Yourself with an Elf Debunking elf-sex myths

Elves are hard to find, but a few years ago elves found Hallgerður Hallgrímsdóttir. These encoun- ters led to some of the most wonderful sexual experiences of her life. Keen to share her expe- riences, her book ‘Please yoursELF-Sex with the Icelandic Invisibles’ has made her the leading au- thority on the mystic art of elf sex – the Grapevine investigates. Surveys have shown that ten percent of Ice- landers believe in the existence of “huldufólk” (the hidden people), dwarfs, spirits and other supernatural beings. Ten percent deny it, but the remaining eighty still refuse to rule out their exis- tence. Natives to Iceland, elves are very limber, light and strong which makes them excellent sex- ual partners. Unlike humans, elves have the abil- ity to open up other worlds of sexual encounters. Although Hallgerður does not think they possess supernatural powers, she is sure that having sex with one is magical. “They can do stuff you would never imagine, and also have the imagination to think of things you never would,” Hallgerdur di- vulges. Grapevine finds this surprising, consider- ing that elves are generally small and skinny in warning: the water's still pretty cold. physical stature. But, as the saying goes, size does not matter and according to Hallgerður, half the magic lies in the way they use their tongues. Also, it seems the myths of elves ‘eating people’ may have been slightly misconstrued, as it is far less Welcome to the Tropical Island of Iceland physically harmful and much dirtier then Hans Grimm ever divulged. On a steamy summer day in July, Iceland breaks the hottest temperatures on record Although she has been sexually cavorting in this world for years, Hallgerður is not monoga- mous with these elves, and has never been in a serious relationship with one. She also cannot Following an unusually squelching whether climate change is just standing, other factors are fully detail how long these encounters last; bed- heat wave, temperatures topped beginning to rear its head in Ice- Weather forecast pointing to a warmer climate ded in soft moss with a supernatural being by her land. According to a new for the country. In particular, side (or some other position entirely) seems to out a blistering 26.2°C in Reykjavík Jónsson said that you cannot report issued by the increased waterflow from blur the time space continuum. Grapevine asked on July 30th, breaking the all-time attribute a single meteorological Iceland’s scientific melting glaciers has been doing if filming these encounters would be allowed (for hottest record for the capital city. event to global warming but noted committee on climate gangbusters for hydroelectric journalistic purposes, of course), but unfortunate- there was a growing warming change, due to warmer power company profits, like ly it seems elves are very excited about ‘electrical It was a surreal experience for tourists, some of pattern; however, he couldn’t temperatures in the Landsvirkjun, who has seen a devices’ and are prone to steal them or use them whom espoused incredulity with actually getting say for certain that there was a future, the country over significant increase in water (we did not ask on what). a sunburn in Iceland! Local citizens fought the connection for at least a few the next few decades producing more energy than ever To those who wish to try and catch them- weather with mass dips in the city’s pools as well decades. can expect to see: before. selves an elfish encounter, be warned – elves are as hitting up the geothermal beach. That same “The average temperature – wheat and pumpkins Climatic signs like that have shy so Hallgerður’s book recommends secluded day, 42 km northeast of Reykjavík, Þingvellir is usually 18° or 19° so 20° is very – southern demersal fish worried Iceland’s Ministry for places. They would love to have more people was a blazing 29.7°C, the highest temperature unusual. In the last century, we –volcanic activity in the the Environment enough that wandering around the Icelandic countryside and ever recorded on a standard automatic station in had temperatures reach 20°C, Vatnajökull glacier included in their Climate Change for those unsure about dabbling in the world of el- Iceland. [approximately] eight out of – rising water levels Long Term Visioning plan are ven pleasure, other benefits include no-strings-at- According to Trausti Jónsson, Meteorologist twenty years; in this century, it’ll – 80 new species of layer adaptation strategies anticipating tached, stress-free sexual encounters and no one at the Icelandic Meteorological Office, the record be 12 out of 20,” said Jónsson. birds the danger of rising sea levels. seeing you performing the walk of shame through heat was caused by a perfect storm in conditions “There is a lot of natural variability While Jónsson is anticipating the forest in the morning. of which included warm air coming in from so it’s impossible to connect an more moderate temperatures for ‘Please yoursELF-Sex with the Icelandic In- Europe, clear skies and the summer seasonal individual heat wave with climate change and the the next few weeks, with the climate acting so visibles’ by Hallgerður Hallgrímsdóttir is available environment. record wasn’t broken by a wide margin. Before I erratically in Iceland, it might be wise to keep a from www.anobii.com. With polar bears drifting to Iceland in would say there is a connection, we would have to bottle of sunblock handy. recent weeks from broken ice shelves and other wait 40 years and evaluate the data then.” bizarre melting phenomena, some have pondered Questions over individual hot days notwith-

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>XZaVcY^X H]ZZe;VgbZgh [email protected] / photo: 16 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 article BY james crugnale article BY marcus walsh — PHOTO by gas

Great Moments in Icelandic History Iceland gets its first Olympic medal

While many right now are cheering on Iceland’s Olympians competing in Beijing, there still re- mains great national pride and honour in remem- bering that unforgettable moment in time when the country won its very first medal. While Iceland’s Olympic history goes back to 1921, when their Olympic committee was first started and becoming officially recognised by the IOC in 1935, it wasn’t until 1956 at the Melbourne Olympics that an Olympic dream was finally rea- lised. Vilhjálmur Einarsson – known throughout the country today as “Silver Man” – stunned the world when at Melbourne he sprang a Herculean leap, bounding 16.26 meters in the men’s triple jump. This miraculous achievement set a world record briefly until Adhemar da Silva eclipsed it shortly after. Einarsson says that the Silver medal win came as a huge shock for him AND the country. icelandic cuisine prepared: we're easy on the sauce. “I remember that before the ’56 Olympics started, a famous journalist wrote that Iceland shouldn’t send anyone to the Olympics, as there was no point to it because there had been many previ- ous disappointments. ‘Why waste all that money Food for Thought sending an Icelander halfway across the world?’” he says. “It was quite a big surprise in Iceland for Local chefs explain Icelandic Cuisine me to win a medal.” At the time, Einarsson was two years into col- lege at Dartmouth University and enthusiastically participated in the school’s track and field team. Grapevine met with two local chefs – Hrefna Rósa The simplicity of using utation abroad due to inferior Through this experience, he got into excellent ath- Jóhannsdóttir Sætran, owner of the restaurant what is locally available is RECIPE treatment of the fish. “When letic form, ready to take on the world. Einarsson Fish Market on Aðalstræti, and Stefán Úlfarsson, very important to the chefs. Cod with Mild Mustard Sauce you eat cod in London the recalls that in the run up to the Melbourne Games from the family-run 3 Frakkar, on Baldursgata – to The international reversion likelihood is that is has been during the qualifiers in Sweden, he broke the learn their approach to contemporary Icelandic back to organic produce, as Grill or fry 2 cod fillets with the sitting around for a few days, Scandinavian record for the triple jump, and then cuisine. Stefán also provided us with an easy five- championed by chefs like Ja- skins still intact on medium for but here it makes it to the continuously got better and better. “I improved my step recipe that anyone can try for themselves at mie Oliver in the UK, is similar 7-8 minutes plate a lot faster” said Stefán. personal best by a meter and then another meter,” an agreeable cost. in helping reinforce regional Salt and flip over for a further 2 Easy-access to fish is also a he says. “This was a very big improvement in such identities, but in this corner minutes crucial proponent in the eyes a short period of time!” VOCAL ABOUT LOCAL FOOD of the globe a progression Add butter to ensure even of Stefán: “We use what is in After accomplishing a silver finish in Mel- As travel guides talk about Icelandic food in terms towards minimalism has oc- cooking our neighbourhood, here up bourne, Einarsson continued his Olympic ambi- of putrefied shark and whale steaks, I was curious curred. “This has been the Mix 3 tbsp Sweet, 2 tbsp north in the Atlantic”. tions to the next games set in Rome in 1960. He about how often Icelanders eat these dishes and general Nordic movement for Wholegrain and 1 tbsp Dijon Both chefs specialise in remembers the buzz at the time was high and the whether or not these stereotypes are warranted. over three years now,” com- mustards together with 2 tbsp seafood and focus on mod- pressure was on him to go for the gold. However, As a visitor, I wanted to sample something simple, mented Hrefna. “We only use cream and heat in a pan on low ern simplicity in courses like a heat wave struck the city during his competition current and obtainable that I could legitimately things that grow around us.” for 2 minutes halibut with lobster sauce, and a Russian triple-jumper strategically delayed cook for myself. Everybody mentions fish and Serve with lettuce, boiled po- redfish with wasabi or even a his jump by 10 to 15 minutes, intentionally upping the lamb as being the fundamental quality pro- OH MY COD! tatoes, lettuce and season with mother’s favourite like hashed Einarsson’s stress level before he was to take his duce. The chefs confirmed that these are indeed The fish in Iceland are so palat- parsley fish. They simultaneously turn. As a result, he suffered the agony of fifth the main strengths of Icelandic cuisine. “Our able because of the short time retain important customary place. “I remember the whole stadium booing the animals are ranged and not farmed,” mentioned they spend out of the water roots and keep things simple, Russian, it’s one of my strongest memories of the Stefán, while Hrefna pointed to the quality of life before being served. They tell me that freshness is without being plain, which in itself is creative. games,” he says. of lambs: “They can run around eating grass and a fundamental facet to modern Icelandic seafood Stefán concluded: “We bring some of the old and fresh herbs”. This is a far cry from factory farm- dishes, be they cod, halibut or lobster, and that new styles together and put them in a different ing and harsh living conditions that much of the sauce is always minimal, mainly for enhancing the uniform.” world has come to witness. raw material. I also learn that cod has a lesser rep- DAY HOUSING BENEFITS tours RENT BENEFITS Housing benefits are intended for residents of Reykjavik as a financial aid to those who rent in the general market. Spectacular Application service is provided at the city’s 6 service centers and it’s also possible to apply electronically through www.rafraen.reykjavik.is. Applicants shall have reach 18 years of age, hold a legal residence in Reykjavik and be able to show a signed rental contract that has been Breathtaking registered at the district magistrade.

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WANTED: Corpses or soon-to-be Corpses Icelandic artist seeks the dead for a video installation by sigurður k. kristinsson — photo by gas

Snorri Ásmundsson has the reputation of being Iceland’s most infamous artist. If one’s in doubt, his provoking pieces must authenticate his fame. He caused quite a stir selling letters of absolution a few years ago, promising to absolve buyers of all sin. He has run for both the Presidency of the Icelandic Republic and the Mayoral Office in Akureyri for artistic purposes, although he called off both campaigns before the elections after causing a quite a rift in the community. His most recent exploit was to organize a prayer ceremony in Hljómskálagarðurinn Park where he offered people from every religion to come and pray together. What aroused the Grapevine’s attention to this innovative artist was a recent advertisement he sent out to several media outlets, calling for people’s dead bodies to be used in his forthcoming video-instalment. Although he promised to return the corpses in the same condition he received them in, this obviously provoked some questions. Snorri describes himself as both a scorpion and a ‘firehorse,’ driven by some indescribable force, trying to taunt himself in as many ways as he can. Asked about his upcoming piece he explained that he thinks working with cadavers is extremely exhilarating. “The piece itself is an ode to life and not dramatic or serious in any way. I don’t look at death as an ending but a beginning of something unknown,” he elaborates. He doesn’t want to depict the piece too thoroughly for the simple reason that he can’t: “I look at it as an abstract painting in the making; the painter really doesn’t know how it’s going to look.” When asked how the search is going he says there have been some informal advances but the whole quest is in a sensitive stage at the moment. He is though very optimistic and expects to intercept a corpse in at least a year’s time. The installment itself will be in the Akureyri Art Museum sometime in 2009. “The piece itself will of course rely on the condition of the cadaver, the disease that caused its current state and my drive-force’s adaptability to the piece,” Snorri says, adding that if he doesn’t pull off his corpse- seeking plans here in Iceland, he has no worries for he says other communities are bound to be more welcoming to his artistic endeavors.

websites www.this.is/snorri www.myspace.com/znosso Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com 20 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 interview BY sveinn birkir björnsson — PHOTO by ásta kristjánsdóttir

The Man Who Created the Nineties Sigurjón Sighvatsson sheds some light on his career as Hollywood producer

Icelandic movie producer Sigur- the fresh and exciting stuff? It was on MTV, so the But I produced the first 30 shows of Beverly Hills until Fahrenheit 911 came out 15 years later. One jón Sighvatsson is responsible for companies came looking for us. We hadn’t even 90210, while we had a lot of people working on of the many unfinished projects we had was a tour tried to break in to the advertising industry when Twin Peaks, where David Lynch also took a more documentary with Guns n’ Roses. We did all the cult movies such as Wild at Heart we were approached to do our first ads. That’s decisive role in the production. But after Beverly videos for Guns n’ Roses in their time and there and Kalifornia. He is was also one how we started to make commercials. That part of Hills started to do well, Aaron Spelling bought us was an Icelandic filmmaker who was working for of the most prolific music video the company also grew very fast, and within just out and the show continued for nine years after us, Ágúst Jakobsson, who had been an assistant producers in the early years of a few years we were the largest music video and I left it. when we were shooting some of these videos and MTV, working with artists such commercial production company in the world. Did these two projects turn out to be a foun- he ended up going on the road with the band for But at the same time, the goal was always dation for you in the future? two years, shooting footage for a documentary. Madonna and Guns n’ Roses, to make films, so we used the money we were Well, after this, we mostly turned to making mov- All this material exists, but when the band split including their now famous video making from commercials and music videos to ies, so we never really built on this to become a up, Axl Rose locked it all up. trilogy from Use Your Illusion. And develop feature length films. The company was TV production company. We did other stuff for TV, What is your favourite project? then of course, there was Beverly becoming very prominent, as it was the leading but nothing as big as this. It was just a question That’s a little like asking you to pick your favou- rite child. But, Kalifornia ranks high. And Wild at Hills 90210, which he pretty much company in its field, so people started to come to of focus. Making movies with David Lynch and us with material and ideas. That’s how we met Da- Madonna was simply more exciting. TV was just a Heart. Although, for some reason, people don’t resurrected from a standstill. Is it vid Lynch, and that’s when I was approached to means to an end really. But of course I am proud seem to think that Wild at Heart has aged well. I safe to say that few men were as take on the project Beverly Hills 90210, which was that both of these shows are considered ground- think it has, but not everyone agrees. Many people influential in creating the nineties completely frozen at the time and nobody could breaking series today. name Pulp Fiction as seminal movie. I think that as we know it as Sigurjón Sigh- get it off the ground, because the TV industry was One of the first big films you produced was Wild at Heart is a lot more seminal movie. For one getting so old. Aaron Spelling David Lynch’s Wild at Heart, thing it came out earlier and it combines all the vatsson? I think it is. had developed the series, and with Nicholas Cage in one elements that were later crystallised in Quentin he wanted to find someone Name: of his first big roles. Later Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction. It had violence, a little How does a pop-musician from Iceland be- who knew what the teenagers Sigurjón (Joni) Sighvatsson you did Kalifornia, with two horror and blood, as well as humour. You’ll find all come a big-time movie producer in Holly- wanted, and he thought we DOB: young actors, Brad Pitt and those things in Wild at Heart. It has surprised me wood? would know, or David Lynch June 15, 1952 David Duchovny. Is it just through the years, how unkind history has been Well, alongside being a pop-musician, I was also thought we could. So the Occupation: luck or do you have such a to this movie. It is usually not even mentioned as a student at the University of Iceland where I stud- foundation of this company Movie producer great eye for talent? one of David Lynch’s best movies. People usually ied English and literature. After I completed my opened a lot of doors for us. Upcoming Releases: How does the saying go? It’s mention Blue Velvet or Eraserhead, or Mullhol- BA degree I was awarded a Fullbright scholarship So David Lynch had a part Brothers, The Good Heart better to be lucky than clever? land Drive. But Wild at Heart has always been one to go to the University of Southern California to at- to play in bringing Beverly Selected Filmography: Some people say there is no of my favourite projects, but I am surprised that tend an M.F.A. program in Film Production. I was Hills 90210 to life? He’s not Zidane: A 21st Century Portrait such thing as luck. Most of the it hasn’t been given its due credit. The Madonna there for three years, and after that I went on to really a person you’d think K-19: The Widowmaker directors we brought in at the movie was a project I worked on a lot personally. study further at the American Film Institute. of in relation to such a teen- Arlington Road early days of Propaganda Films I haven’t done a lot of horror movies, but Candy- This was back in 1978, before the first official age phenomenon. Basquiat are some of the most famous man was a somewhat seminal movie I did with Icelandic movie had even been made – Útlaginn Well, David was looking for Kalifornia directors in the world today. Mi- Clive Barker, although I don’t look at myself as a by Ágúst Guðmundsson came out in late 1978 – so new ways to do things. He Wild at Heart chael Bay, Spike Jonze, David horror filmmaker. Zidane, a 21-Century Portrait there wasn’t much of a movie industry here when came to us with the manu- Red Rock West Fincher, and Anthony Fuqua was a very unusual project where I was very in- I left, but I always intended to come back. The rea- script to Twin Peaks because Pantera: Cowboys from Hell for example. We tried to work volved personally, and it was unlike anything that son I prolonged my stay there was that my wife we were doing exciting things. Madonna: Truth or Dare with people that were on a had been done before. hadn’t finished her studies. So, the idea was that Twin Peaks was a very avant- Pantera: Cowboys from Hell similar wavelength as us at Pro- Zidane must have sounded like a crazy idea I would try to find some work while she finished garde idea, but he couldn’t Beverly Hills, 90210 paganda, but we also had the when you were first heard it. To film a whole school. At the time, there were a lot of changes get it financed through the vision to work with people like football match, but only film one player the in the industry. The film industry was just like the big networks. We managed to David Lynch, where your role is whole time. auto industry, it was very closed – the unions con- finance it partially through other networks as well. mostly as a facilitator. You don’t really tell David Yes, but the idea came from artists, rather than trolled everything. If you were not a member of Although ABC had first rights to it, we sold the sec- Lynch what to do. You just get people together filmmakers. It came out of a workshop I do once a union, you couldn’t get a job. But around 1980, ond rights to a cable network; then we sold the in a room, close the door and hope for the best. a year in Eiðar in East-Iceland with various artists. things started to change following two new things. rights to it abroad and so on. This was a very un- Wild at Heart was made when David was trying At first, they wanted to do a video installation, but One, cable networks and two, home video. These usual way to finance a TV production. Usually, you to put together a movie that didn’t work out then, I said that this would only work as a film; it could new areas were unregulated as the unions they would just go to ABC or any of the other networks, but later became Mulholland Drive. He was look- never work on a small screen. If you are portray- didn’t see them as a threat. and ABC bought the rights and financed the pro- ing for something else to do and I had personally ing a single individual like that, you have to blow I was cooperating with a friend of mine I duction. There were just three networks at the bought the rights to the short story Wild at Heart it up. So what’s better than seeing him up on the had met at AFI, called Steve Golin, and we were time: ABC, NBC and CBS, and if they said no, you for another director. At some point I started to dis- silver screen? That’s what makes it exciting. When trying to develop our own films, but in the mean- just couldn’t get it done. But we found other ways. cuss this with David and eventually I handed him you watch a football game on TV, you see all the time we were free-lancing for other companies, Otherwise, Twin Peaks would never have been a copy of the book, and few days later he called players and they are all so small, so all you can re- doing work for cable networks and other projects made. Beverly Hills 90210 was different, because me and had the script ready and everything was ally see of the players is the jersey number. What that were not directly for the major studios. In nobody wanted to buy it. That’s why the project set in motion. Good material calls for a good di- we wanted to do was to take something that you 1985, Steve Golin and I decided to form our own was at a standstill. Aaron Spelling and his people rector, and a good director gets good actors. If you see every day and show people a new angle. And production company, Propaganda Films. We had – he had a lot of clever old guys working with him, have the foundation, the rest follows. Today I am I think we did that. been free-lancing for a lot of companies, but there I think most of them are dead now – they believed producing a movie called Brothers with Natalie was one company I had worked a lot for, and sud- in the material, and they wanted to find someone Portman, Tobey Maguire and Jake Gyllenhal, the denly the top brass of the company decided to who could make it accessible, I don’t necessarily biggest young stars in Hollywood. That’s only pos- quit, so there was no one left except the directors want to say commercial, and they came to us after sible because I had the right material. But I have One of the many unfinished proj- and me. So someone suggested we simply formed David pointed us out to them. always been very interested in discovering new our own company. So Steve came aboard, and In Iceland, Twin Peaks received a lot atten- talent. ects we had was a tour documen- that’s how we started really. tion, because it was being produced by an There is one film on your resume that caught tary with Guns n’ Roses. All this Mostly we were just in the right place at the Icelander, but I don’t even remember having my eye: Pantera – Cowboys From Hell, a roc- material exists, but when the right time. MTV was starting out and we were one heard your name mentioned in the media kumentary with a heavy metal band. It is a of the first companies to get a foothold in the mu- here in relation to Beverly Hills 90210. little different from a lot of other things on band split up, Axl Rose locked it sic video industry. The company grew very fast, Well, one difference was that we developed and your list. all up. and soon we branched out from music videos to produced Twin Peaks, whereas Beverly Hills was We produced over 200 music videos, spanning commercials. The advertising industry was like the brought to us. Twin Peaks was our production, the whole spectrum. From Guns n’ Roses to Ma- film industry, very regulated, so it was almost im- while we did Beverly Hills in cooperation with donna and Michael Jackson and we did a few possible to get in there. But again, the timing was Aaron Spelling. But I took it upon myself person- documentaries on music and musicians as well. good. The advertising industry was going through ally to produce that project. Maybe it was just be- The movie we did with Madonna, Truth or Dare, a generational shift and people were looking for cause I have always been fond of soaps and there was somewhat seminal in that field at the time. It something fresh and exciting. So where was all weren’t many people that believed in this project. was the highest grossing documentary in the US REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 | 21 22 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO BY GAS

THE VERDICT A magnificent meeting of alternative rock, folk and acoustic influences pack- aged with some excellent song writing.

listen & buy www.myspace.com/ my- summerasasalvationsoldier

My Summer As A Salvation Soldier Activism reviewed by BEN H. MURRAY

The twelve songs on Activism, an album wracked with emotion and subtle diatribe, are arguably some of the best tracks to be released in Iceland this year. Ranging from the low-key acoustic composi- tion of 'Hey Mom', which features banjo accompaniment by Ólöf Arnalds and poetic lyrics that bring a lump to your throat, to the Hüsker Dü influenced scratchy brilliance of 'How Are You?', this is a record that's very well written (both lyrically and musically), highly engaging and mysterious enough to become a fixture on anyone's playlist for some time. Perhaps the album's strongest point is its variety. Each song seems to follow an entirely separate aesthetic with a variety of in- struments and influences, such as the layered vocals and glocken- spiel on the distinctly Icelandic post-rock sounding 'I Try', marking the individual tracks in a way that demands your attention several times over.

THE VERDICT Confusingly dense at first but the myriad of sounds stereo total: pink on pink on pink never fails. and influences come together superbly after a couple of spins. Worthy of a gold medal. All Bark and No Bite listen & buy www.this.is/kirakira

I must say that the extremely merry atmosphere at part of the duo, Brezel Göring, was both explicit Kira Kira Organ on Gay Pride Night overwhelmed me a bit and provoking and whether he was abusing the WHO Our Map to the Monster Olympics upon entry, but in a moment I settled down with the band gadgets on the stage with his soothing hip- Stereo total thought of this gathering being an uplifting change movements or jumping on tables hammering Organ’s from the rather sweaty and stiff atmosphere usually chandeliers with drumsticks resulting in shattered WHERE reviewed by BEN H. MURRAY prevailing at the premises; the lovely and dear Organ glass and sparks raining all over the audience, Organ we all know. It wasn’t very long until I discovered you could always find somebody flabbergasted. In recent years, the successful portions of the Icelandic post-rock the reason for this peculiar happiness surrounding When overlooking the satisfied crowd, WHEN scene have made a sound to call their own and Kira Kira, along with the crowd, but even though the attendants boasted singing along with every single song, closing their Saturday, August 9 their topically-named new album, fit quite precisely into this school. of quite an amount of energy they couldn’t have eyes with a smile on their faces, the assumption Mixing together brass instrumentation reminiscent of bands like Ben- matched the energy of their reason for happiness that the performance was brilliant couldn’t be THE VERDICT ni Hemm Hemm, albeit with a bit more subtlety, and a constant sup- on their best day: the psychotic duo Stereo Total. avoided. But was it? To me is was merely simple and Staggering performance ply of other orchestral sounds, samples and airy vocals (the type that When they made their entrance on stage clownish melodies combined with attitude which but rusty music. bought the Cocteau Twins success), the overall effect is a little discon- they seemed to me as a hipster couple stuck in the represented something new two decades ago but certing to start with but songs like 'Ágústskot' and 'Gremlin Holiday' 90’s East-Berlin art outburst, in their shiny leather certainly not any more. Their multi-lingual singing bring a welcome accessibility to what is a fine and intricate album. pants and with their hippie-like haircuts. When was interesting at first but when they started The rest of the album is crammed with innovation and unexpected their performance commenced I found out I was to namedropping Japanese idioms and Turkish say- moments. 'Bless' is the closest thing you'll hear ever to a Hawaiian / a certain extent right, but they had certainly more ings it became more presumptuous than anything Icelandic crossover track with its lazy slide guitar, electro backing to offer than a nostalgic look. The music itself was else. They are definitely charming, but the per- and perky melody, but it retains an honest and charming nature really cheerful and a bit childish at times and would formance was primarily charming because of their which manifests itself in several different ways throughout its nine definitely have sounded plain naïve if it hadn’t encircled fans making it all look so wonderful. compositions. been for their outrageous performance, which is undoubtedly their forte. The act of the male-

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SURTSEY – GENESIS The volcanic island Surtsey has been inscribed

Photo: Sigurjón Einarsson CULTURE NIGHT on UNESCO World Heritage List of natural sites Surtsey is unique in that it has been protected from any Free admission human impact right from its creation. on Culture Night, The exhibition Surtsey – Genesis traces the emergence August 23 and evolution of the island Surtsey to the present day and Open late; from predicts its geological and ecological development over the next 120 years. 11 am to 11 pm The exhibition is produced by the Icelandic Institute of Special free musical performance Natural History. by Hundur í óskilum at 8:00 pm and 9:30 pm.

Other exhibitions: MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – Eddas and Sagas. THE LATE VIEW – Halldór Laxness’ private photographs. REYKJAVÍK – photographs by Ari Sigvaldason. THE NATION AND NATURE – fi lms by Páll Steingrímsson.

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of the Medieval Manuscripts Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) exhibition every weekday except Wednesday Tel: +354 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is at 3:30 pm.

»What to do and when: » www.grapevine.is

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Laugavegi 36 Tel: 551 3524 Open Mon. - Fri 7.30 - 18.15. Saturday 7.30 -17.30. Sunday 8.30-17.00. 24 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW BY sveinn birkir björnsson — PHOTO BY höskarinn

THE VERDICT Shows great promise but simple compositions soon become repetitious.

listen & buy www.myspace.com/olafur- arnalds

Ólafur Arnalds Variations of Static reviewed by sveinn birkir björnsson

Ólafur Arnalds is a jack of all trades. Variations of Static is his sec- ond album of compositions for piano and strings, following Eulogy for Evolution (2007). Before starting his solo career, Ólafur had made a name for himself as a drummer with hardcore bands Fighting Shit and Celestine – all this at the tender age of 21. Five songs in all, Varia- tions of Static comes of like a single compositional piece. The mu- sic is simplistic, rooted in atmospheric creations rather than great technical display. It is all very pretty and tender at first but soon the simplistic compositions start to feel naively so, and as a result the al- bum becomes repetitive, despite its sombre tone. There are certainly moods and occasions that will fit this album perfectly, but in general I think this will best be filed in the ‘expect great things from in the future’ pile.

THE VERDICT Despite the isolation on the cover, new Andrúm al- bum glows right through. celestine shake things up.

listen & buy http://www.myspace. com/foxfacemusic Metal: Industrial Strenght

Foxface Celebrating the release of their respective albums ery time I’ve seen them play they have failed to live This is What Makes Us and the formation of their own record label, Mo- up to the expectations of that promise. This was WHO lestine Records, two Reykjavík metal bands, Mo- a different story. The band’s recent European tour Celestine mentum and Celestine, seized the old Iðnó theatre and recent recording sessions have honed their Momentum reviewed by sveinn birkir björnsson by the Reykjavík pond for a night of industrial rough edges and inspired them with confidence. Muck strength metal music. Their guitars tuned down to the last letter of the Ask the Slave For some reason, this debut album by the Glascow three-piece Fox- The night commenced with an appearance alphabet, the band delivered a mind-numbingly face ended up on my desk. It is a rather enjoyable mash of folk influ- by Muck, a young sludge metal band that is fast heavy set with scientifically engineered precision WHERE enced pop with a dash of rockabilly. This sounds like it could be a building a reputation. Musically, these lads have that turned my insides out and left me vibrating Iðnó great bar band. The albums strength lies in the steady baritone voice taken strides since I last saw them and should be long after I left the venue. Their delivery of Ghost singer Michael Angus, who sounds a lot like Jarvis Cocker, and the recognised as one of Reykjavík’s more promising Orchid was the night’s highlight. WHEN interplay with songstress Jenny Bell. The songs Last Waltz and Face underground bands. They built a thick, airtight The show’s final act was Momentum, is a Friday, August 8 Looks Familiar are highlights, but overall, the album could do with wall of slow riffs that hit like a bulldozer. But as throwback to the golden years of death metal. more songs of that quality. There is nothing distinctively great on tight as they sounded, they left a boatload to be de- Their performance rekindled memories of my THE VERDICT display here; mostly it just rolls through without much effort. Easy to sired in stage presence. Isaac Hayes is more alive mother banging on the door, demanding that I Celestine delivered the enjoy, but probably easy to forget as well. than these guys. “turn that shit down!” Their sound is built around goods, aptly backed up by I don’t share some people’s enthusiasm for technical mastery as the three-piece rhythm sec- Momentum and to a lesser Ask the Slave. Franky, I find their progish metal tion, featuring 19 strings, bears witness to. They extent, Muck and Ask the extremely boring, but I’ll readily admit that they pulled of a very respectable set, topped by guest Slave. were a vast improvement in stage performance. appearance by Ask the Slave’s Ragnar, whose flair Front-man Ragnar has a sense for showmanship for the high notes established a nice contrast to vo- that could propel this band further. calist Hörður’s guttural barking. Celestine’s two albums blew me away, but ev-

Licensing and registration of travel- related services

The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet website. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Icelandic Tourist Board.

List of licenced Tour Operators and Travel Agencies on: visiticeland.com »What to do and when:

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» www.grapevine.is 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 article By Valur Gunnarsson — illustration by bobby breiðholt

airwaves 2012: who'd have guessed rockin' nizamuddin would finally surpass björk? The Future of Rock and Roll Is India the next Manchester?

With the world shrinking at a quered the world, but ever since it has had its twin The non-English speaking country that has that was already 25 years ago. Meanwhile, Icelan- continuously faster pace, far away headquarters in the US and the UK, bouncing back done the best in popular music, however, is Swe- dic artists such as Björk and Sigur Rós are mak- and forth every few years. As the British Invasion den. Abba are no doubt the biggest band ever ing some of the most innovative music around. places are being exposed to west- petered out in the later 60’s, the West Coast of the with a non-native English speaking background, The next groundbreaking merger since blues and ern popular music and rock. Will United States responded with Acid Rock, then the having sold more than 150 million records. In their country might happen in an out of the way place this mean that the next pop music Brits broke out Glam Rock in the early 70’s. Both wake have come a host of others, such as The Car- like there. superstar is currently tuning his New York and London can claim to have spawned digans, Ace of Base and The Hives. In any case, it will most likely be a fusion of shitar on the streets of Mumbai? punk, if vastly different types of punk. Since then, Larger European countries have fared Anglo-American Rock with local styles. This is al- Rock may not have made as serious an attempt to worse. Any casual listener would be hard pressed ready happening in many places, but it will prob- reinvent itself, but it’s still bands from the US or the to name many French rock stars, even if Serge ably be the large countries in Asia that will begin “I have seen rock‘n’roll future and its name is UK that keep the cash registers (or the download- Gainsbourg is hugely influential in some circles. to make themselves felt before too long. No doubt Bruce Springsteen.” This is one of the most fa- ers) busy. Same goes for Germany (Rammstein), Italy (Zuc- we will at some point have Chinese rockers who mous lines in rock history and was written by then chero) and Spain (Julio Iglesias, perhaps). It seems fuse their own tonal system with that of the west. critic Jon Landau in Boston’s Real Paper in 1974. Sir Rotten that being born English speaking is a distinct ad- In a sense Landau was prophetic, as Springsteen It is not surprising that the United States should vantage. And if not, then it is best to come from a The Bengali Bob Dylan became one of the biggest stars of the following be home to the world’s most popular music. In country with a small home market and good Eng- But it is India that has a distinct advantage, having decades and, along with U2 roughly ten years lat- the 50’s, and indeed throughout the latter half of lish proficiency, such as Sweden. not only millions of people already proficient in er, can be called the last true superstar of rock – the 20th Century, that is where most of the world Musicians from further afield have had English, but also many contacts in London, which someone who had cross-generational appeal and looked for their entertainment. This also holds little luck. Bob Marley was the first major star to is still the starting point to the rest of Europe when can fill football arenas again and again. In a sense true for most other forms of pop culture, design, emerge from the developing world, but no one of it comes to pop music. In fact, Indian music has they were also a self-fulfilling prophecy, launching art, even literature. Before the Second World War, his stature has arrived since. It is mostly the Latin influenced rock since early on. The Beatles went both Springsteen’s career and later Landau’s as his other countries, particularly Germany, had com- Americans that have managed to produce lesser to India and even before then the sounds of the manager. peted in putting out films, but after 1945 the US pop stars, such as Ricky Martin and Shakira. sitar started popping up on their albums. In the What they did not do, however, was point to hold on our movie and TV screens has been al- 90’s, pop stars with Indian roots were heard in the future of rock and roll. Springsteen’s success most complete. The Language of Rock Britain, with bands such as Cornershop and Asian came not because he had something radically It may be a bit surprising then that Britain Is it likely, then, that the Anglo-American strangle- Dub Foundation. But, with all due respect to Ravi new to offer, but because his music reminded peo- has performed so well in music, whereas at the hold on Rock will be broken? In a word, yes. After Shankar, we have yet to see the Indians exporting ple of the 50’s and 60’s, when rock seemed more movies they have only occasionally managed to the end of the Cold War and with the advent of pop back to Britain, the way Britain did with the vital than it did in the mid-70’s, or indeed since it compete with the Americans when it comes to the internet, more than ever, Rock has become a US in the 60’s. No doubt it will happen at some has since. Bruce was called “the saviour of rock box office success. Perhaps the reason is that as a truly global phenomenon. It is no longer just boys point, though. Perhaps the coffee shops of Cal- and roll,” as by this time it was obvious that rock smaller country they don’t have the money it takes on the Mersey or in the American South who play cutta are where we should start looking for the needed saving. Others have had to labour under to compete with Hollywood blockbusters, but re- guitars, even if it has taken them a long time to next Bob Dylan. the same assumption since. But can rock and roll cords are cheaper to make. break into the mainstream. really be saved? And should it be? In any case, Rock music is a big part of how However, the globalisation of rock has been Legend has it that rock and roll was formed Britain defines itself, from Swinging London to going on for a long time. What will more likely through a fusion of styles that can essentially be Cool Britannia. Paul McCartney’s become a Sir, so make the difference is that there is now springing But, with all due respect to Ravi traced back to European folk, mostly from the is Mick Jagger, and it wouldn’t be that surprising up a generation of people who are non-native Eng- Shankar, we have yet to see the British Isles, on the one hand, and with African if John Lydon were to enter their ranks before too lish speakers, but who speak the language with rhythms on the other. It was a combination of long. Perhaps Oasis are even partially to blame for both skill and ease. For even if the centre of grav- Indians exporting pop back to musical forms derived from African slaves in the Tony Blair, who felt compelled to invite Noel Gal- ity for popular music will move away from the US- Britain, the way Britain did with American South and white working class labour- lahager to his inauguration party. UK axis, it seems almost certain that English, as ers. It is certainly true that rock‘n’roll first came to the lingua franca of the internet age, will remain the US in the 60’s. No doubt it will prominence in the American South, through the The Swedes take over the voice of rock. This will probably hold true happen at some point, though. music of Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Elvis Presley, Most of the biggest rock stars to be born outside even if the native English speaking countries con- Jerry Lee Lewis and many others. The first wave of the twin towers of the US and the UK hail from tinue their political decline, in the same way that petered out in the late 50’s and early 60’s, and for a other parts of the English speaking world. Canada Latin remained the language of cosmopolitans for while it seemed as if the short lived phenomenon has given us Leonard Cohen and Neil Young as a millennium after the fall of the Western Roman might die out. well as Alanis Morissette; Australia has artists as Empire. But under their influence new bands were varied as AC/DC, The Bee Gees and Nick Cave. formed in London and Liverpool, and it fell to Ireland as also had a clear avenue to the outside The Decline of the West Britain to revitalise rock and export it back to the world, U2 being probably the biggest band to be Neither London nor New York has come up with USA. This was the first British Invasion. Rock con- born outside of the US and UK. anything truly groundbreaking since hiphop, and >XZaVcY^X Our quality... 6gi Releases ÆÆÆ I]Z:hhZcXZ d[VCVi^dc

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and since then we have hardly left the practice space.”

Confidence Trumps Pressure The band’s last album met with a very warm wel- come from the Icelandic music press as well as in Europe. This means that the band is now record- ing under the watchful eye of the media, opposed to recording the first album in relative obscurity from anyone outside the small hardcore-scene in Reykjavík. “We never expected anyone to like that album apart from maybe twenty of our best friends,” Kolli states, while Þórir adds: “I half-ex- pected [record label] 12 Tónar to back out. I don’t think we are an especially accessible band for ca- sual rock fans.” But the label stayed the course, and now it is up to Gavin Portland to prove that it was the right decision, but not a one-time fluke. Does that create added pressure for the band? Kolli feeds us me the standard rock cliché: “No, we don’t re- ally care what people think.” Þórir gives us a little more straightforward answer. “Like I said, we can be a bit full of ourselves. We are just so confident in what we are doing, that I am not even worried about that.”

The Importance of Being Hardcore So, how does a band approach its second album? Is the process different? Is the material different? “The material is heavier,” Þórir explains. “Our roots as a hardcore punk band should be a little more obvious in this album. Our last album contained more indie-rock influences, but this is more based on hardcore.” Kolli adds: “I don’t think there is one catchy song on this album, but than again, I didn’t think so last time either.” Þórir says it was important to the band to GAvin Portland: Gearing up for another album. make an album that would showcase their true roots as a hardcore band. “Although we don’t play traditional hardcore punk, it was more of an issue for us now to make a hardcore record so people don’t misconstrue this album. And its probably go- ing to sound a bit different because we are record- “There’s no Pressure” ing it in a studio that is built for hardcore punk, whereas our last album was recorded in the stu- Gavin Portland returns to the studio to record a sophomore release dio that [‘60s pop band] Hljómar built.”

Being Gavin Portland “We are creating music that we know is never The hardcore punk band Gavin to playing in various other bands, such as Dormah a hardcore band, this is a great opportunity – to going to make it into daytime radio rotation any- Portland surprised many with and Deathmetal Supersquad. Third, bass player record in the best hardcore studio in the world, where, and that has never been the point of be- Addi is also a member of Celestine, another band but this is also a pilgrimage for us, because all our ing in a band for us. Of course we’ll be pleased if their debut album, Views of Dis- with a hefty schedule. I was relieved to be able to favourite albums where recorded in this studio.” A people like it and get what we are doing, mostly tant Towns, released last year to get two of them together in a room for a little talk. smile appears across Kolli’s face. “This is our Ab- because that will help 12 Tónar, who took a big much critical acclaim. The album bey Road.” chance when they signed us,” says Kolli of the scored favourably among review- The Pilgrimage to Abbey Road band’s expectations of the outcome. For Gavin ers, both in Iceland and abroad. For reasons stated above, IV: Hand in Hand With Egos Held in Check Portland, this album is the labour of love, not a an Traitors, Back to Back with Whores, the follow “The reason we wanted to work with him is that attempt to recreate the success of their last album. Now the band faces the daunt- up to 2006 III: Views of Distant Towns has been he is a producer. He works with us, brings ideas to Þórir: “Well, there is no one in Gavin Portland un- ing task of living up to their own long awaited. Finally, everyone has a cleared their the table and gives us feedback. We can be a bit der the illusion that we will ever make a living off shadow. schedule so the band is heading to Massachu- full of ourselves, and I think it will be good for us of this. It is more like we are trying to make a living setts, USA to record in Godcity Studio, with owner, to have someone from the outside to keep that in so we can be in Gavin Portland.” For Gavin Portland, simple things like getting to- producer and Converge guitarist Kurt Ballou. “He check,” Þórir says about the reasons behind their gether to practice can be a major difficulty. For records all the best stuff in hardcore in the US,” collaboration with Kurt Ballou. Gavin Portland will play two farewell shows be- one thing, singer Kolli currently resides in the UK, says Þórir of the man who in the last few years With band members living in two countries, fore disappearing into the recording studio. On occasionally making the trip across the Atlantic has spent his time away from the band recording finding time to write new material can be difficult. August 14 at Kaffi Rót with Tentacles of Doom to join his bandmates for practice, and the odd re- such acts as Modern Life is War, Blacklisted, My- “We wrote half the album in February,” Þórir ex- and Dys; and August 19 at Organ with Skítur cording session. For another thing, guitarist Þórir sery Index, and last but not least Converge. “We plains. “Since Kolli came back this summer, we and Muck. is fostering a thriving solo career under the moni- sent him a few songs, which he liked, so he agreed have changed those songs a lot, and worked on ker My Summer As A Salvation Soldier, in addition to work with us,” he continues, adding “for us as new material.” Kolli adds: “I came back July 20,

30 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 article By Ben H Murray — PHOTOs BY gas

Alex Somers artist and musician. Originally from Baltimore, USA. Andreas Constantinou singer/songwriter and dance teacher. Originally from Cyprus. I’m a part of a band called Parachutes, and my boyfriend and I do art and music together with the name Riceboy I am currently the Head of Contemporary Dance at Klassiski Listdansskolinn and a contemporary dance tutor. I’ve Sleeps. Lately I have been making an album with Parachutes, and we’re rehearsing as we’ll be touring the States from been coming to Iceland since 2004 and after my second visit I was offered a full time teaching contract, I was living in mid-August to September 1st. I have also been preparing for a few art exhibitions coming up: one Riceboy Sleeps London at the time and thought “why not leave this giant city and shake things up a bit”. I am also a singer/songwriter exhibition on October 2nd at the White Chapel Gallery in London for the Concrete & Glass Art Festival, and one group and have just released my debut album, Fistful, which is being distributed by Kimi Records in Iceland. I love the open exhibition on October 16th at Gallery Turpentine as a part of the Sequences Art Festival. I just wish there was a RAW space and I adore being in a city without feeling trapped - I would say that being here in Reykjavik, I feel much freer food restaurant in Iceland! then when I was living in London. www.riceboysleeps.com and www.myspace.com/parachutesmakesongs www.myspace.com/andreasconstantinou Art and Ice – A Difficult Combination? Three foreign artist who all live in Reykajvík to find out what exactly drew them to the country

Pretty people, money and the countries in a recent World Population Policies explains Alex whose gallery, The Lost Horse, is a the UK, is significantly higher at 24.5% leading to weather – ask most people about study, newer residents form a significant part of model success story on how a mixture of artistic the number one observation about Iceland – that the Icelandic people and their culture without ability and entrepreneurship can pay dividends in it’s an expensive place to live – having a greater Iceland and they’ll usually weave swamping the economy. As a country, it’s in an a small country – if you could do two things well, impact on everyone’s lives as fuel prices and the you a story around these three enviable position compared to some European rather than just the one, it’s likely that nobody else current economic climate further drive up prices topics, touching on the freezing- neighbours. in such a small place will be able to match you. of everyday goods and services. This is particu- but-beautiful environment (it’s Ironically, the know-it-alls who trot out tired “There’s a lot of low-hanging fruit here…” is how larly hard to stomach if the price of a painting, art Ice-land, right?) and how a round clichés about the country are not far from the Ian Watson, another American now living in Reyk- installation, gig ticket or album isn’t raised to com- truth, for as our three examples show, most people javík, accurately described the market for special- pensate but sticking rigidly to Iceland’s tax sys- of drinks requires a small bank are lured to Iceland by something relating to one ist skill sets, particularly in the fields of media and tem, which isn’t too complex and has a number of loan but, apparently, it’s worth of the trinity of environment (and location), love art. Work out your finances, find a niche, work incentives for certain industries, but a low tax al- it because the women / men are or money and find at least one of these subjects hard at it and the chances of success are high – lowance is vital to avoid sticky situations. Getting very good looking, with accents to be a serious bone of contention, having made much higher than in most other capital cities. professional help is one thing that Alex Somers, a like Björk and model features all the move. The idle speculators aren’t far from the But the focus on money and tax is also, to musician and artist who moved from Baltimore, mark but maybe this is a universal truth about hu- some extent, tied to the choice of job for some- USA, in 2005, recommends – he found starting his round. man migration. one making the move – learn the language (ac- own business forcibly clarified the legal situation: Alex Zaklynsky, an American artist who cepted as essential for working in Iceland for any “Since we started the publishing company – Moss But how do these barriers, or the perceptions of was lured to the North Atlantic by his passion of length of time) and you could potentially find a Stories – we have to have a lawyer, so he does ev- difficulties in moving to, and living in, Europe’s art and the carrot of a residency with SIM (the cosy, well-paid desk job at a bank or energy com- erything now.” Starting a company to release an largest wilderness manifest themselves from the Association of Icelandic Visual Artists), certainly pany and such matters need never trouble your album, organise gigs or publish artwork is a com- point of view of people who’ve made the move agrees with the idea that money and the high bank balance. But those with a more precarious mon way to channel creative efforts whilst keep- and work in industries common to Iceland’s new- cost of living is a major factor in deciding on a income tied to the fluctuations of the creative ing everything legal and above board financially. er generations? With an immigrant population of stay in Iceland. “The worst thing about living in economy will obviously find having a large per- Aside from the long-standing issues of tax about 23,000 (7.6% of the total population), a fig- Iceland and being an artist are taxes and if I could centage of your money taken by the government and money, a problem shared by many Nordic ure that puts Iceland 154th out of 193 UN member change one thing it would be to have lower taxes,” harder. Value Added Tax, levied at a mere 17.5% in countries, there are many positive things that lure

Step into Icelandic language courses. New courses starting The exhibition and museum shop are open August 25. daily 10–17 the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland www.framvegis.is Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. oldest such site found in Iceland.

REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 | 31 “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Don’t miss it!

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Alexander Zaklynsky artist and gallerist of The Lost Horse Gallery. Originally from Rhode Island, USA. I moved here via an art residency and just got stuck and started a gallery, plus I had a warrant out for me for riding a bicycle on the sidewalk in Brooklyn – Homeland Security issues. Recently, we’ve been sponsored by Visit Reykjavík and Landsbanki to produce various video in- stallations on Laugevegur and Bankastraeti for Menningarnótt and I’m currently assisting on a possible monument to the Jules Vern classic ‘Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ in Arnastapi , Snaefellsness. The best thing about living in Iceland would have to be the extremely high prices on goods at 10 – 11. www.this.is/subaqua

people to Iceland (rather than repelling them). The first, as ture is the multitude of funding, such as the Kraumur music highlighted by the recent dalliance of former Manchester fund, which supports artists and musicians in their efforts United footballer Dwight Yorke with an Icelandic model (she to widen their audience and further the spread of Icelandic wisely dumped him), is that love and emotional attachment culture. Such funding, generated by numerous government are hugely important. Walk around Reykjavík and the melting and institutional sources and corporate sponsors (see Alex pot of accents and nationalities are, when casually surveyed, Zaklynsky’s Landsbankinn-sponsored display in late August mainly due to that person meeting a boy or a girl sometime – a as a prime example), has paved the way for international rec- subsequent tale of long distance romance ending in a move ognition amongst the artistic community in Iceland and acts to Iceland normally follows. Alex Somers is one such person as an unofficial tourist board of sorts. Displays around the (“I moved to Iceland in 2005 to live with my boyfriend”) and world, from London to New York, and the huge impact of Ice- hundreds have made the same decision, particularly when landic music over the past few years have made sure that the their home country is the antithesis of Iceland, as is the case country is no longer seen as cold, in any human sense of the with America and other large industrialised countries. This word. This worldwide perception has meant that whilst some gravitation must also be due to the many obvious attractive people move to Iceland for the clean air, amazing scenery qualities (it’s unlikely Dwight Yorke was squiring his Icelandic and quality of life, many others, such as our three examples, lady due to her knowledge of the cod wars and whaling) that move here because, person-for-person, Reykjavík has one of are manifested, in many cases, in a unique cultural outlook the most interesting and progressive artistic communities in with a focus on art and aesthetics, the combination of which the world. And that’s after taxes and VAT. outsiders find fascinating and inspiring to be a part of. Andreas Constantinou, a Cypriot who moved to Reyk- javík from London to pursue a career in dance teaching and music, found this aspect of the country to be a strong draw: Walk around Reykjavík and the melting “Iceland has a thriving art scene, the overall society values pot of accents and nationalities are, its art and culture very much and I find this refreshing. Our surroundings can affect us hugely in our daily lives uncon- when casually surveyed, mainly due sciously.” Whilst Alex Somers, whose music and art projects, to that person meeting a boy or a girl Riceboy Sleeps and Parachutes, have led to international rec- ognition and well-supported international tours, also shares sometime – a subsequent tale of long the view that Icelandic society’s heavy leaning towards ar- distance romance ending in a move to tistic culture forms a major part of its attractiveness. “Every- thing feels possible here. If I have an idea for a project, I feel Iceland normally follows. like I can really make it happen. All the artists and musicians I know encourage, support, and help each other develop their work, and that is so inspiring to me.” One of the major factors behind this strong artistic cul-

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Hafnarstræti 1-3 101 Reykjavík tel: 561 9555 32 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 destination

Pioneering Sculptures by Zoë Robert — Photo by Leó Stefánsson

You’ll find Ásmundarsafn, the Ásmundur Sveins- son Sculpture Museum, in a unique building near Laugardalslaug swimming pool, just outside of the city centre. Looking like some sort of lunar space station, the large, white domed building was designed and constructed mostly by Sveinsson (1893-1982) himself and was originally used as his home, studio and an exhibition hall. In designing the unusual building, the artist was apparently influenced by the architecture of the Mediter- ranean, traditional Arab domed houses and the pyramids of Egypt. Today, the place is an art gallery that fea- tures work by Sveinsson, one of the pioneers of sculpture in Iceland, but also exhibits work by other Icelandic artists. The first thing you’ll notice when you enter the exhibition area is how bright the whole place is – light pours through the win- dows in the domed roof, reflecting off of the white- washed walls and ceiling. Currently on display until December is The Shape of a Line exhibition, which consists of some of Sveinsson’s abstract sculptures made from iron, copper and bronze pieces and rods. The bizarre shapes are said to be inspired by Egyptian art and history as well as Icelandic nature, literature and people. For some interesting gift ideas, check out the selection of casts of Sveinsson’s work from the museum shop. Also on display, until the end of the year, is a selection of illustrated traditional Icelandic folk tales passed down through the generations by oral tradition. The best thing about the whole place, though, is the building itself. Take a walk in the surrounding garden and check out the huge outdoor sculptures. As the gallery is part of the Reykjavík Art Museum, the museum ticket is also valid for the Hafnarhús and Kjarvalsstaðir museums.

Ásmundarsafn Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Tel.: 553 2155. Open 10:00 – 16:00 daily.

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The Serene Act of Watching Whales

by Marcus Walsh — PHOTO BY gas

Ahoy there! Grapevine clambered on board the Ísafold for an afternoon of whale watching and deep sea fishing. It was a mild Friday afternoon, and after a stressful couple of days the excursion came as a welcome escape. Not knowing what to expect, let alone which boat of three to board, I dashed and just made it onto Ísafold which dou- bles up as a tour boat and angling vessel. Eric, my charismatically salty tour guide, wore sailor whites and a brown flat cap. He´s from a port in Pennsylvania and his lovable New Eng- land accent made me feel welcome as I stepped on-board. Eric was a mix of sage and street-smart and has done more than just sail the high seas. Highly informative, he pointed out that there are four types of whale that swim around these parts – killer whale, dolphin, humpback and minke whales – the most common type and the one we followed on this trip. Minke whales are calm creatures, and un- like their brethren – the humpback and the dol- phin – do not leap out of the ocean like circus performers. This had a rather serene effect on the excursion. Eric kept the loudspeaker information to a minimum, leaving us to absorb the nature and feeling a little less like tourists. Recently, a group of whale watchers in Húsavík witnessed an attack by several killer whales on a small minke who never stood a chance and was subsequently eaten. While it must have been a sight to behold, it would have been out of context on today’s outing. What we witnessed was far more peaceful. The tour also included a 20-minute angling session. After dipping the line for the first time, I instantly caught a Whiting fish (similar to cod) instantly. It was like something from the Old Testa- ment, a miracle for my first time sea fishing. Try- ing to repeat this, however, was a different matter. After being asked repeatedly for the rod back, I salvaged one more fish that was tossed back into the ocean instead of my dinner plate.

Further info www.elding.is www.sjavarferdir.is

GRÍMSEY

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Get your action-packed day tour brochure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 42809 06.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA 34 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

destination By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson — PHOTO BY Sveinn Birkir Björnsson

A recreation of a herring-rush dock in the boathouse. Silver Rush in Siglufjörður Examining the Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður

During the 50’s and the 60’s, a great influx used to bring the valuable herring –the silver of the sea – to of herring from the North-Atlantic created shore. Grána, a herring meal and oil factory from the 1930s shows how men and machines processed herring into meal an economic boom in Iceland. Every man, and oil. Filled with old equipment used for the process. The woman and child in coastal towns along oldest museum building is Róaldsbrakki, built as a Norwe- Northern- and Eastern Iceland was drafted gian herring station in 1907. On the ground floor is a display SNORKELING to serve the country in a time of need. There of the equipment and conditions of (mostly female) work- SK wasn’t a war going on. The herring was ers on shore, where the herring was salted and barrelled for FROM . I export. The upper levels accurately recreate the condition here. And in those days, herring equalled of the ladies who bunked together in small rooms, with com- money, and it needed to be processed before mon cooking facilities and sanitary equipment, and the offic- it went bad. The Grapevine travelled to es of the herring exporters, complete with pay slips, produc- NATURE IS THE ADVENTURE! the Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður to tion reports and bottles of Jenever and Icelandic Brennivín. The work for herring salters was no picnic. The learn more about this history. day started whenever the boats would come in, and it end- ed when all the herring had been salted. Each working day Those who lived it still claim it was the best time of their could easily exceed 20 hours, standing upright, soaked in lives. The Great Herring Adventure of the ‘50s and ‘60s was fish gut and salt, suffering from cuts, blisters and infections. the Icelandic equivalent of Klondike. A gold rush (or silver The township of Siglufjörður in Northern-Iceland was the big- rush perhaps, as herring is affectionately gest herring manufacturer in Iceland from called the silver of the sea in Iceland) the early 1900 until the industry crashed where seasonal workers made a year’s sal- Herring Era Museum: around 1970. During the herring season, ary in a few month period salting herring The biggest maritime the number of inhabitants multiplied when for foreign markets. The herring years, as museum in Iceland. tens of thousands of seasonal workers and this era is commonly known, has been Siglufjörður fishermen migrated to this northernmost repeatedly romanticised in songs, novels population: town of Iceland to ply their trade. and plays in Icelandic culture, leaving 1967: 3000 people Old photos from this era, displayed in us – the post herring era generations – 2007: 1500 people the museum, show hundreds upon hun- to believe that this nation peaked a long Herring export: dreds of boats, filling the fjord from one time ago, and no matter what we’ll do, or 35% of export revenues in the shore to the other during days when the where we’ll take this nation in the future, most fruitful years. fleet had to seek shelter from the storm. it will never compare to the herring years. Biggest season: For sailors, these days ashore were usu- And perhaps they are right. Those were 1966, 691.400 tons. ally accompanied with wine, women and different times. Simpler times. And per- Last season: dance. Accordion music has become sym- haps they were better times. 40.000 tons. bolic, for when there was free time, there The Herring Era Museum in Si- was dance. Or so legend would have it. glufjörður celebrates this era in an award Myself, I would probably have used every winning fashion. Selected as the museum in Iceland in 2000, spare moment to rest. www.adventures.is | [email protected] it managed to top itself in 2004 when it was awarded the Mi- Meet us at Laugarvegi 11 cheletti award as the best museum in Europe. The museum The Icelandic Herring Era Musuem is housed in three separate houses, each featuring an aspect Snorragata 15, 580 Siglufjörður Booking hot-line: +354-562-7000 of the production cycle and the life of herring workers. The Tel.: 467 1604 Boat House recreates the town’s bustling harbour of the www.sild.is 1950s, with many old fishing boats at the dock. Loaded with Opening hours: 13:00 – 17:00 tools and memorabilia from life at sea and the equipment Admission: 800 ISK Ó restaurant ...with a little bit of spanish thrown in! -as good as it gets! There are over 70 courses on our Tapas menu so drop by and indulge in our excellent food in the greatest of atmosphere. Located in the old charming area of Reykjavik offers you an unforgettable culinary experience. Ó restaurant Great Tapas Our emphasis is on seasonal and natural ingredients and our from kr. 550.- menu includes the famous Icelandic fish and lamb.

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Send us an email at [email protected] and briefly tell us about how you experienced Reykjavík’s Thermal Pools and Baths. With a little luck, you could win a trip for two to Iceland with Icelandair in 2009. Ten other contestants will receive a beautiful gift from Reykjavík Spa City.

P.S. Tickets are valid from any Icelandair gateway in Europe and the USA. These tickets are not valid from 15 June to 15 August 2009. Reykjavík Spa City reserves the right to use any submitted material for promotional purposes. www.spacity.is 36 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008

Article

Fabulously Dragged to Rehab

By Stevie Ward — Photos by gas

The theme for this year’s Icelandic Drag Competi- tion was “Opera Horror” and the Drag Queens of Reykjavík delivered. The new Queen, a satirical version of Amy Winehouse, was crowned with a fountain of applause, fantastic prizes and a shiny tiara. The man behind the Drag creation, Magnús Jónsson, was shocked that he had won this year’s title. “I had already placed bets on who would win, and I placed myself fourth. I’m not lying; I didn’t think I would win. We had only rehearsed for four nights. Yesterday I felt really sick and felt like pulling out.” Jonsson had tried out various other possibilities for acts, including a Eurovision parody when it finally struck him to send up Wine- houses’ drug habits with Mary Poppins’ ‘A Spoon Full of Sugar’. Not only was this his first title, it was also his first drag ever. Last year’s defending Drag King, Ylfa Lind Gylfadóttir, performed superbly, encouraging the growing popularity and positive image of the King Competition. Thanks to Ylfalind’s performance, this year’s King Contestants had nearly doubled, and the winning entry – a softly spoken, tap-danc- ing old man – swept away the competition to rap- turous applause. It was no coincidence that this year’s win- ning characters leaned closer towards the theatri- cal than the musical. Two of the judges, Executive Director of LGBT, Lárus Ari Knútsson, and model Anna Rakel, commented on what they had looked for in 2008’s King and Queen – “Humour, original choreography, comedy, surprises and the X Factor – the whole package”. REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 | 37

Article

Pride and Prejudice

By Stevie Ward — Photos by valdís thor

The gay rights campaign in Iceland has been run- ning since 1978. From an invisible group and an oppressed minority to a strong organisation and community, the Lesbians and Gay men in Iceland have now gained social and legal rights, which is celebrated in their once-a-year Gay Pride Festival – a true celebration of the Gay community’s ambi- tions and achievements. Grapevine was invited along to review the highs and lows of the festivi- ties in Reykjavík. The true meaning of the festival was demon- strated at the Gay Pride Parade on the 9th, which headed down Laugavegur, and which had in al- most every window some sort of support for the festival, be it rainbow-coloured furniture displays or rainbow tie-racks. Seeing this fearless celebra- tion demonstrated by participants walking hand- in-hand with the people they love, supported by friends and family, was a truly emotional and unforgettable experience. The parade ended with a grand finale at an outdoor concert at Arnarholl featuring singer Haffi Haff and was attended by over 50,000 supporters. Larus Ari Knutsson, Head of The National Queer Organisation, explained one of the reasons that this year’s festival had more resources and energy put into it; “There are more acts and more participants in the parade; we like to believe there is more di- versity and more to witness this week, more par- ticipants because it’s more inclusive and more family friendly. This wasn’t planned, but when we started to parade, these people were just there and cheering us on; it’s something we’re proud of. It’s about celebrating together, you can see little children and granddads and grandmas among the spectators. Iceland is a small country – you can probably argue in every family there may be someone who is gay or someone who knows someone, so it is easy to relate to it. People are there to support gay rights, but also there to sup- port someone they know. To show that person that they are ok, but more importantly that every- one is okay with that.” The one place not everyone was welcome were the men only/women only dances held at Organ and Tunglið, where unsuspecting people of the ‘wrong sex,’ who had already started celebrating the festival of sexual tolerance were asked, with no explanation by door staff, to put down their pints, leave their tables and go their separate ways. “It’s tough because organisations are trying to find ways to facilitate the Gay and Lesbian com- munity. They are trying to find venues for gays to meet gays and lesbians to meet lesbians. I think it’s okay, but I can see the downside.” Oli Hjortur Olafsson, co owner of Q-bar commented.

Living Museum by the Sea

Víkin Reykjavik Maritime Museum

Open daily from 11am to 5pm Closed Mondays Víkin Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík Tel: 517 9400 www.sjominjasafn.is 38 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 12—2008 the list by oddur sturluson — PHOTOs BY GAS top Icelandic rock albums

Born in Selfoss April the 7th at Austur- Lifun – Trúbrot 1971 vegur 7, in a house named Núpur but 1 The best overall Icelandic rock album. I'm a die-hard Hljómar and Trúbrot now called Kaffi Krús (built by Andrea´s fan but I'll admit that the two-part Óðmenn record which was released grandparents). Brought up in Selfoss 1970 is also a contender for the title. with 3 siblings, sheep and horses, until she went to Reykjavík to attend MR from Með allt á hreinu – Stuðmenn og Grýlurnar 1982 where she graduated in 1969. Studied 2 A great album with songs from the funniest Icelandic movie ever. English at the University of Iceland for Stuðmenn have some of the best albums of Icelandic history, along with 2 winters but was very glad when she their offspring, Þursarnir and Spilverkið. was rescued from further studying and offered to become a proof-reader at Bláir draumar – Bubbi & Megas 1988 Þjóðviljinn in 1972 where she worked 3 They've both had long, respectable careers and some of their other al- for more than a decade. Besides the bums, such as Kona (Bubbi 1985) and Megas' first album which came out proof-reading, Andrea also wrote about 1972 were also revolutionary in their own right. music in the newspaper. She started having weekly shows on Rás 2 in 1984, Life´s too good – Sykurmolarnir 1988 but had as early as 1971-1972 done 4 I'm personally more fond of Illur Arfur but this album is so full of hits and weekly shows at, “Gamla Gufan”, which really marks the beginning of Icelandic music being recognised abroad. was the Icelandic State Radio, before Rás 2 existed. Andrea – also known as Andrea Jónsdóttir ‘Grandma Rock’– has done a lot of dj- Ágætis byrjun – Sigurrós 1999 ing around town, especially at Dillon. 5 Their newest album might also have what it takes to be on this list but She has 1 daughter (b. 1974), a foster since this one has passed the test of time I'll name this one for now and son (b. 1985) and two granddaughters. let time be the judge. top designers in Iceland

Kjartan Sturluson is a 32 year old goal- Hrafnkell Birgisson keeper for Icelandic champions Valur 1 Hrafnkell’s design has a strong Icelandic feel to it. He's very true to and the Icelandic national team in foot- himself and his roots in his design. ball. He is also one of the owners of the online shop Birkiland (www.birkiland. com) which specialises in Icelandic Sruli Recht design. He studied economics at the 2 He has an interesting take on life and existence, which is reflected University of Iceland and has also stud- in his design. ied design management at the Bocconi University in Milan. He founded Birki- land with Ingvi Þór Guðmundsson with Tinna Gunnarsdóttir the goal of promoting Icelandic design, 3 She twins together a lot of different fabrics in her designs, which both in Iceland and abroad. They also are influenced by nature and the animal kingdom. plan on opening pop-up stores, the first of which will be situated in Gal- lery Verðandi (Laugavegur 51) and will Ingibjörg Hanna Bjarnadóttir open in October. Kjartan is passionate 4 I find her use of the raven in her coat hangers very appealing these about design and Icelandic design in days. particular.

Björg Juto Kjartan Sturluson 5 She manages to recreate things in a fun way, rediscover their pur- pose and change the way they look. top kiosks in Iceland

Kristín Björk Kristjánsdóttir, A.K.A. Kira Litla kaffistofan Kira, was born in Reykjavík in 1977 and 1 My grandma almost bought this place once, and every time I drive past has lived in 25 different houses, mostly there I imagine what it would be like to have it in the family. The best in Breiðholt but also in Tokyo, Berlin, damn coffee and kleina between Reykjavík and Hveragerði. Garður and Nice. She studied elec- tronic music as well as visual art and Aðalsjoppan founded Kitchen Motors in 1999 – an 2 This is my local sjoppa, in Vogar, Vatnsleysuströnd. The best thing about art collective dedicated to experimen- it is the name actually although their ice cream is pretty good stuff. tal music and collaboration between eclectic artists. Now she's the artistic director of the Sequences art festival Hallinn and she just released her second al- 3 For historical reasons I have to mention this one. It's the tiniest, most awk- bum, Our Map to the Monster Olym- wardly situated little bastard of a business on a hill next to Menntaskó- pics, with Smekkleysa and Afterhours linn í Reykjavík. Too bad it closed down. It was a pleasant thing. in Japan. These days she's planning a tour there, starting with her Kite Sym- Kaupfélagið á Húsavík phony in Shanghai (100 kites equipped 4 Last time I checked they had the best Drakúla candies in town. But last with remote controlled microphones), time I checked was a few years ago, so I can't guarantee anything. then Tokyo, Finland and finally Russia where she will play a few shows with her band and record an album with a Pétursbúð Kristín Björk Kristjánsdóttir Russian folk hero. 5 I'm not sure if this one counts as a sjoppa. It's one of those thunder cor- www.myspace.com/trallaladykirakira nershops that's got all you need. www.this.is/kirakira Books Music Souvenirs & lots more

Open every day from 9.00 to 22.00

Lækjargata 2a 101 Reykjavík Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 12 — August 15 - August 28 2008 www.grapevine.is

Stuffed with stuff

“I remember that before the ’56 Olympics started, a fa- mous journalist wrote that Iceland shouldn’t send any- one to the Olympics, as there was no point to it because there had been many previous disappointments. ‘Why waste all that money sending an Icelander halfway across the world?’” Vilhjálmur Einarsson – “Silver Man” – remi- nisces on winning Iceland its first Olympic medal. Page 16

“The piece itself will of course rely on the condition of the cadaver, the disease that caused its current state and my drive-force’s adaptability to the piece,” Artist Snorri Ásmundsson on his planned “corpse art.” Page 18

“Some days, your system starts screaming for hamburger, and it won’t let up until you satisfy your savage craving for the bloody ground meat of in- nocent mammals topped with delicious melted cheese, sand- wiched in a moist bun.” Haukur S Magnússon likes his burgers evil. Page 12

“Many people name Pulp Fic- tion as seminal movie. I think that Wild at Heart is a lot more seminal movie. For one thing it came out earlier and it combines all the elements that were later crystallised in Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction.” Icelandic film producer Sigurjón Sighvatsson knows Hollywood. Page 20 Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map + The Nordic Houses’s 40th Aniversary · Shorts and Docs · Akureyrarvaka Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 12 2008 www.grapevine.is What: GusGus at NASA (B2) B2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Listings Music Gus Gus at NASA

Gus Gus burst into Nasa on August 16 momentum exploring the rivers of elec- What: with their elective mix of Techno and tronica through their dancey, ethereal GusGus Electronica. Known for being the one of tunes and sexy vocal samples. For mu- When: the biggest dance electronic acts in the sic that has, in their own words, been August 16 world, Gus Gus are working on their 6th ‘scientifically grooved and tailored to hit Where: studio album and are now testing new where it hurts – the heart – Gus Gus’s NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2 material at Iceland’s greatest dance two main ‘Taylors’ President Bongo and venue. Founded in 1995, Forever, their Biggi Veira must be sharpening their 1 E6 5th studio album, reached critical ac- needles for this – the ultimate ‘sneak claim and Gus Gus’s new work gained peak’ in Soul couture.

Art Art Symmetry Photo nordic Exhibition house’s

Leo Stefansson has a new photo exhibi- work for newspapers and local venues 40th tion called Symmetry. His photos are as well as working on his own pho- showing now and through the 21st of tography. He is getting ready to begin The Nordic House in Reykjavík is August at the boutique and art gallery school at the Icelandic Academy for the gearing up to celebrate its fortieth an- Figura located in downtown Reykjavik. Arts soon. niversary. The house started in 1968 as The exhibition consists of two works a cultural centre and has remained a with three photos each focusing on the What: strong resource for all things Nordic. It themes of transparency and symmetry Leó Stefánsson’s first exhibi- offers an impressive two-story library, as the title might suggest. tion art exhibits, lectures, concerts and This is Leo’s first exhibition of his When: workshops. work. For his first show he is doing very Running now through August The centre is planning to well. “It’s going ahead of my expecta- 21 celebrate its anniversary by presenting tions,” he said. “People have been very Where: exhibitions that celebrate each decade interested.” He has already sold a few Fótógrafía, Skólavörðustígur of Nordic culture through art, history, photos and has some potential buyers 22, 101 Reykjavík and design. The first of these exhibits lined up. “I’m very grateful for that,” he will be held on the 22nd of August and remarked. 2 F7 highlight the year 1968 using designs Leo has been working as a photog- by the centre’s chief architect Alvar rapher for two years now mostly doing Aalto. The exhibits will then focus on 1978, 1988, and so forth extending on into 2018 and a look into the future for Nordic culture. Ellen Fodstad, the centre’s project manager, encourages visitors and locals alike to take part in the festivities which, complete with wine and food, promise to be entertaining as well as educational. “The ultimate goal,” she says, “is to make the house come alive and it doesn’t come alive without people.” Experience: When: Fresh local fish! HÚSAVÍK August 22 – 31 Great Hamburgers! Where: HÚSAVÍK The Nordic House, Sturlugata Homemade icecream! 5, 101 Reykjavík ... and so much more! 3 C11 www.gamlibaukur.is B3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Listings

If you would like to be included NASA When: 10 PM in the Grapevine listings, free of GusGus Café Cultura charge, contact the Grapevine by When: 12PM Biggi Maus. (DJ set) email at [email protected]. Tunglið When: 10 PM Trevor Loveys, Mr. Cuellar, Ghozt NASA and Trix. (DJ set) Esja Concert Organic yogurt! When: 11 PM When: 9PM Vegamót Fresh organic yogurt with exotic flavors Music & DJ Símon B5 FRIDAY AUG 22 Entertainment DJ AnR When: Midnight NASA FRIDAY AUG 15 Techno.is concert When: 12PM Nasa SUNDAY AUG 17 B5 Fashion Show DJ Simon Gorillafunk Further info: www.nasa.is Hressó When: Midnight Vegamót Troubadour Performance followed 12 Tónar DJ Jónas by DJ Bjarni. Concert featuring Dirac, a Vienna When: Midnight When: 10 PM based experimental music group. Hressó B5 When: 5 PM Dalton concert followed by DJ Live Band Chillout Hressó EINN, TVEIR OG ÞRÍR 298.034 Maggi. When: 10 PM Dalton followed by DJ Bjarni When: 10 PM Prikið Kaffibarinn Biobú ehf • www.biobu.is Organ Hang over movie screening Nuno Lx (DJ set) DJ Thor When: 20 PM Organ When: Midnight CBirds of Wales (CAN) Café Cultura When: 10 PM DJ Maggi Lego TUESDAY AUG 19 Prikið When: Midnight Performance by Búsbandið Prikið Organ followed by DJ Moonshine Performance by Köttur followed Gavin Portland Concert When: 10 PM by DJ B-ruff accompanied by Skítur and Muck Café Cultura When: 9 PM When: 9 PM Jack Schidt (DJ set) B5 Prikið When: Midnight Funky Fleivur. (DJ set) Performance by the houseband. When: Midnight When: 10 PM Kaffibarinn SATURDAY AUG 23 Alfons X (DJ set) When: Midnight WEDNESDAY AUG 20 B5 DJ AnR Organ When: Midnight SATURDAY AUG 16 Poetrix concert Hressó When: 9 PM 17:00 - Trubadour Tryggvi Amsterdam Prikið Vilmundar Slugs concert Ladies night. Special offers for 19:00-21:00 Dj Sykur, When: 10 PM wine. DJ Anna Rakel 21:00-23:00 Bixie-bandið Hressó When: 9 PM 00:00 DJ Maggi and Dalton in the Mamas Handbag concert followed Kaffibarinn yard by DJ Maggi. Bang Gang (DJ Set) Kaffibarinn When: 10 PM When: 10 PM DJ Magic Kaffibarinn Terrordisco (DJ Set) Maggi Legó (DJ set) When: Midnight When: Midnight THURSDAY AUG 21 Prikið Organ Culture Night concert Universal DJ Manello finkikora(London), DJ B5 Sound (DK) Kocoon, King Yunggz (USA) DJ Jónas Oh! When 21 PM When: 9 PM When: 10 PM Café Cultura Prikið Hressó Æla, Sometime concert followed Óli HJörtur (DJ set) Jógvan and Vignir (Trubadours) by DJ Hjalti Casanova When: Midnight Kaffibarinn When: Midnight Café Cultura Alfons X (DJ set) Nasa Nuno Lx (DJ set) When: 10 PM Culture Night Dance with Sálin When: Midnight Prikið Hans Jóns Míns Dj Sexy Lazer When: 12PM

Music & Entertainment | Venue finder

22 Belly´s Arguably the most pub quiz on Fridays at bars and hosts some dents and old regulars. Laugavegur 22 | G7 Hafnarstræti 18a | E5 authentic Irish pub 17.30, the winner gets a of Reykjavík’s best R&B and Hip-Hop A popular place Belly´s deserves praise in town, a very lively free case of beer! bands. Shows go plays on weekends. among the city´s party for having the cheap- space with live music Hressó on all night long on Q-Bar scenesters, this three est bar prices around. every night, sometimes Austurstræti 20 | E5 weekends. Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 storied bar makes for Good for anyone look- two bands playing at With a spacious Næsti Bar A roomy gay/straight a great night out with ing for a deal, there once. neutral interior, pleas- Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 bar and a welcome chatting upstairs and are enough tables for Dillon ant courtyard and a On nights where addition to downtown dancing downstairs everyone and TVs for Laugavegur 30 | H7 varied lunch menu, queues snake down nightlife. Some of the with regular DJs. sport | watching. The quintessential Hressó attracts no Laugavegur, Naesti best DJs in town play Amsterdam Boston rock pub Dillion serves specific type of crowd. Bar can be great place regularly, making it an Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 Laugavegur 28b | H6 moderately priced Tap beer and music to sneak off to and especially lively space Kaffi Amsterdam A fresh addition to the drinks, and has pretty makes a fair hangout chat with friends over on weekends. seems to have been Reykjavík bar scene. good music, too. The on weekends. a beer. Frequented Rex around forever, though Roomy bar floor, nice mix of students and Hverfisbarinn also by the literary and Austurstræti | E5 recently it’s been rein- sofas and stylish tattooed tough guys Hverfisgata 20 | G6 acting elite. Rex is quite fancy and vented as a live venue. interior make this a always creates a fun After a long line, you’ll Óliver you may feel out of Good music, cheap comfy café as well as atmosphere. get in and wonder Laugavegur 20A | H7 place if you don’t dress beer, and colorful a tavern with good, Domo what all the fuss was This stylish nightclub up a bit. Definitely one characters to be found. unintrusive music. Þingholtstræti 5 | F6 about. You may end attracts a glamorous of the more posh spots Apótek Café Cultura The elegantly deco- up here if you’re still crowd of crazy dancers in town. Austurstræti 16 | E5 Hverfisgata 18 | G6 rated Domo serves going at 4 on a Sunday that may not be for ev- Sólon Numismatic Museum Sporting a chic and Situated in the inter- delicious French-Asian morning, in which eryone. In which case, Bankastræti 7A | F5 pristine interior with cultural centre, Cultura cuisine, excellent sushi case it’s just as good air | conditioning and Truly a jack | of | all a blend of modern is a café/bar with a and has a great wine as any. fine food make Oliver trades establishment. minimalism and ornate cosmopolitan feel. The list. A sure choice. Kaffi Hljómalind a good lunch spot. By night a decent res- baroque, a decent spot menu features all sorts Dubliner Laugavegur 21 | G6 Ölstofan taurant, by day a café/ with eager service and of international dishes, Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 This organic, free-trade Vegamótastígur | G6 bistro and on Friday an international menu. alongside the staple The city’s main Irish café prides itself not No tricks here. You’ll and Saturday nights a B5 salad and sandwich. pub attracts quite a lot only on great food want just simple beer nightclub. Art exhibi- Bankastræti 5 | F6 Café Paris of foreigners, though and coffee but being a in this simple pub. tions on the walls to By day a chic little Austurstræti 14 | E5 there´s an influx of strong cultural center, Also the hangout for top it off. bistro with good food With an outdoor ter- locals on weekends. hosting live music as Reykjavík intellectual Thorvaldsen and a prime location race, this café gets Good if you’re looking well as lectures and circles. Austurstræti 8 | E5 for Laugavegur people busy on sunny days. for the darker stuff poetry nights. Organ Dress formally for this watching | by night With a cosy interior, on tap. Kaffibarinn Hafnarstræti 1-3 | E4 fancy spot, and come a stylish bar with a fine menu and atten- Glaumbar Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 This trendy bar and before 12 to avoid a I]Z8ZcigVa7Vc`VcYCVi^dcVaBjhZjbd[>XZaVcY_d^ciandeZgViZ “whiskey room” and tive service, it makes a Tryggvagata 20 | E4 A popular place to concert venue pres- long line. DJs play Vcjb^hbVi^XXdaaZXi^dci]ViXdch^hihd[>XZaVcY^XcdiZhVcYXd^ch! manhattanesque fine spot for evening The premier sports bar grab a drink after work, ents a wide range of Thursdays, Fridays and clientele. dining as well. in town, though after this daytime coffee international and local Saturdays. [dgZ^\cbdcZn[gdbZVga^Zgi^bZh!ZheZX^Vaan^[bZci^dcZY^c>XZaVc" Bar 11 Café Victor the final whistle, DJs joint roils with night- musicians from all lev- Vegamót Y^XhdjgXZh!VcYbdgZgZXZciXjggZcXn[gdb>XZaVcY»hbV^cigVY^c\ Laugavegur 11 | G6 Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 take the floor and be- time activity on week- els of renown. Shows Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 eVgicZgXdjcig^Zh#6hZaZXi^dc[gdbi]Zcjb^hbVi^XXdaaZXi^dc^hdc A happening Rock A hangout for older gin a night of feverish ends with live DJs. 4 times a week, lasting Vegamót´s kitchen is hangout right on foreigners, Victor at- dancing. Parties often pound late on weekends. open until 22.00 daily Y^heaVn^ch]dlXVhZhdci]Z\gdjcY[addgd[i]Z8ZcigVa7Vc`»hbV^c Laugavegur, brings tracts a diverse crowd, Grand Rokk until dawn. Prikið and sports an appeal- Wj^aY^c\#DeZc[gdb&)/%%¶&,/%%dc8jaijgZC^\]i# in the Iceland rock both in age and origin, Smiðjustígur | G6 NASA Bankastræti | F5 ing lunch menu. Come scene whether on the a rule that extends to As its Viking theme ac- Þorvaldsenstræti 2 Part of the Reykjavík for a tasty brunch on jukebox or in person the musicians that play curately displays, this | E6 bar scene for decades, weekends. If you like mainly on Tuesdays there. hardcore chess hang- The cornerstone of this café/bar has a Óliver, try Vegamót and Situated in the Central Bank´s main building in Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavík. but throughout the Celtic Cross out is no place for the Reykjavík nightlife, fairly cheap menu and vice versa. Open Mon.-Fri. 13:30-15:30. Free admittance. week. Hverfisgata 26 | H6 lily | livered. Take the NASA has multiple attracts a mix of stu- B4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Listings

Tue–Sun 13–17 Ragnheiður Káradóttir and Free Entrance Sigríður T. Túliníus exhibition SUNDAY AUG 24 June 21 – Aug 24 Gallery Kling & Bang Currents: Masterpieces from the Aug 23 – Sept 9 Prikið ASÍ Art Museum Collection Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir exhibits Hangover-Cinema. The Culture House Gallery Turpentine When: 10 PM Permanent exhibitions: Current Exhibition: B5 Medieval Manuscripts; The Paintings by Stórval Live Band Chillout Library Room. Gerðuberg Cultural Centre When: 9 PM Current exhibitions: May 3 – Sept 7 Surtsey – Genesis Between Mountain and Shore: The exhibition traces the Exhibition of landscape paintings MONDAY AUG 25 emergence and evolution of the from popular-artist couple island Surtsey until the present Michael Guðvarðarson and Ósk Prikið day and predicts its geographical Guðmundsdóttir Open decks night. Come and and ecological development over May 3 – Sept 7 show your stuff. the next 120 years. Magical Beings from the Folk When: 10 PM From Beyond the Oceans – Tales of Iceland: Drawings from Translations and original writings Jón Baldur Hlíðberg by Helgi Hálfdanarson 4 March – 7 Sept TUESDAY AUG 26 The thematic exhibition currently A Date with Collectors III: All on view in the Library Room is of the exhibition pieces are Prikið dedicated to Helgi Hálfdanarson’s connected with music in one way Performance by the house-band. translations and original writings. or another! When: 10 PM The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ i8 Gallery Photographs July 10 – Aug 9 Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan Exhibition by Hamish Fulton WEDNESDAY AUG 27 Halldór Laxness was better Living Art Museum Great selection of known for his writing but proved Aug 16 – Sept 29 new and used army surplus Prikið to be also a good photographer. Tillit – rúcksicht – regards and collectable militaria Ladies night with DJ Rósa. This is an exhibition of his works. Exhibition by Hlynur Hallson Open 11 to 5 Weekends When: 10 PM Exhibition Series The National Film Archive of Organ Ásta Ólafsdóttir displays her Iceland Reykjavik Jazz Festival artwork at the Culture Shop. The National Film Archive of When: 9 PM The Einar Jónsson Museum Iceland screens old movie classics Permanent exhibition: and masterpieces twice a week The work of sculptor Einar for 500 ISK per ticket. THURSDAY AUG 28 Jónsson. The National Gallery of Iceland Gallery StartArt July 10 – Sept 28 Hressó Exhibitions: Exhibition: Highlight of Icelandic Jógvan and Vignir (Trubadours) Black Art – Magdalena Margrét Art B5 Kjartansdóttir The National Museum Billy Jean (DJ Set) Flutter – Ingunn Fjóla Permanent exhibition: When: Midnight Ingþórsdóttir and Þórdís The Making of a Nation Prikið Jóhannesdóttir June 6 – Jan 21 DJ Sexy Lazer Gallery Ágúst Over the Ocean and Home: When: 10 PM Aug 16 – Sept 27 Icelandic artefacts from Sweden. Organ Exhibition by Katrín Elvarsdóttir May 16 – Sept 14 ARMY.IS Reykjavík Jazz Festival Gallery Fold Endurkast (Reflection): When: 9 PM Current exhibition: Gallery Fold’s Cooperative photography Café Cultura summer exhibition. Paintings exhibition between eight Icelandic WANTS YOU! Einar Sonic. (DJ set) by Ásgrímur Jónsson, Jón photographers. The Icelandic Army shop When: 10 PM Stefánsson, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, May 16 – Sept 14 at kolaportið fleamarket Finnur Jónsson, Þorvaldur In the Mist: Exhibition by French Skúlason, Jóhann Briem and Nína photographer Thomas Humery. Tryggvadótti May 15 – Sept 1 Art Gallery Ibiza Bunker Lífshlaup: Cooperative project ASÍ Art Museum Aug 1 between The University of Iceland The Forget-Me-Not Burger – Simply Magical! Freyjugata 41 Ibiza Breeze in the Bunker: and the National Museum.

Art | Venue finder

101 Gallery hearts of the “cute” ambitious programme Gerðuberg Cultural Archive of Iceland gallery features works Hverfisgata 18A | F6 generation. of exhibitions, it also Centre screens old movie by Icelandic artists. Thu–Sat 14–17 and by The Einar Jónsson presents and sells art- Gerðuberg 3-5 classics and master- Reykjavík Art appointment Museum work of Icelandic and Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed pieces twice a week for Museum international artists. 500 ISK per ticket. www.101hotel. Eiriksgata | G9 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 Open daily 10–16 is/101hotel/101gallery/ Tue–Sun 14–17 Gallery Fold / Sat–Sun 13–16 The National Gallery www.listasafnreykja- Located in the 101 www.skulptur.is Rauðarástígur 14-16 www.gerduberg.is of Iceland vikur.is Hotel, features a Features a permanent | J9 Located in Breiðholt, Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 Ásmundur Sveinsson broad selection of exhibition on the Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat the Gerðuberg cultural Tue–Sun 11–17 Sculpture Museum international and local sculptor Einar Jónsson 11–16 / Sun 14–16 centre hosts both exhi- www.listasafn.is Sigtún contemporary art. as well as temporary www.myndlist.is bitions and events. Houses the national Hafnarhús Artótek exhibits. More of an art auction Hitt Húsið art collection and is Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Tryggvagata 15 | D5 Fótógrafí than just a gallery, Fold – Gallery Tukt the centre of research Kjarvalsstaðir Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu Skólavörðustígur 4a also evaluates and Pósthússtræti 3-5 and documentation of Flókagata | K11 exhibits art. Icelandic art. Specialising in 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat | F7 | E6 and Sun 13–17 www.fotografi.is Gallery Ibiza Bunker www.hitthusid.is The National contemporary art by www.sim.is/Index/ Features photographic Þingholtsstræti 31 Initially thought of Museum local and international artists. Free entrance. Islenska/Artotek exhibitions by local | F7 as a hobby centre to Suðurgata 41 | C9 An Icelandic art photographers. Open Fridays 17-20 keep the youth from Open daily 10–17 Reykjavík City exhibition space and www.myspace.com/ drinking, Hitt húsið is natmus.is/ Theatre art dealer. Pieces are Gallery 100° still operational and Bæjarháls 1 ibizabunker Established in 1863, Listabraut 3 Bergþórugata 21 – 101 Reykjavík – Tel.: 5517200 available for purchase This gallery is actually organises events as this museum features Presenting Icelandic or lease. www.or.is/Forsida/Gal- well as hosting art lery100/ a project by one of Hitt exhibits on Icelandic music and dance ASÍ Art Museum Húsið’s creative sum- exhibitions in their Gal- cultural heritage. performances as well Open weekdays from lery – Gallery Tukt. Freyugata 41 | G10 08:30–16:00 mer groups. Art by the The Nordic House as dramatic theatre, young folks, for the produces six new Tue–Sun 13–17 An art museum run i8 Gallery Sturlugata 5 | C11 Run by the ASÍ labour by the Orkuveita young folks. Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Tue–Sun 12–17 shows each year. union, features mostly Reykjavíkur energy Gallery Kling & Bang Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat www.nordice.is/ Reykjavík Maritime contemporary Icelan- corporation. Features Laugavegur 23 | G7 13–17 and by appoint- Explores and promotes Museum dic art. Free entry. contemporary art by Thurs–Sun from 14–18 ment. www.i8.is Scandinavian culture Grandagarður 8 | C3 Árbæjarsafn Icelandic and foreign this.is/klingogbang/ Represents work by an with regular lectures, With a fishing trawler- Kistuhylur 4 artists. Exhibits upcoming eclectic mix of Icelan- films and exhibitions. turned-exhibit space, An open-air museum and established dic and international educates on the Gallery Auga fyrir contemporary artists. The Numismatic featuring arts-and- Auga contemporary artists Museum maritime and fishing as well as hosting traditions of Iceland. crafts fairs and exhibi- Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Living Art Museum Einholt 4 | K9 tions in the summer. Independently run screenings, lectures Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Open Mon–Fri Reykjavík Museum and performances. The Culture House art museum featuring Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / 13:30–15:30. of Photography Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Icelandic art. Gallery Turpentine Presents a cultural his- Tryggvagata 16 | D5 A non-profit gallery Open daily 11–17 Gallery StartArt Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 tory of Iceland through Weekdays 12–19 / www.thjodmenning.is Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat that organises 8–10 analysis of collected Sat–Sun 13–17 Laugavegur 12B | G7 larger exhibitions every A Museum of Icelandic Tue–Sat 1–17 11–16 coins, medals and www.ljosmyndasafn- cultural history, with www.turpentine.is year as well as other books. reykjavikur.is www.startart.is cultural events. an ongoing exhibition Contemporary Houses a collection of Reykjavík 871+/-2 Features work by Icelandic contempo- local and international of the original manu- Icelandic and foreign Lost Horse Gallery Aðalstræti 17 | D6 scripts of the sagas art. Admission is free rary artwork as well Skólastræti 1 | F6 Open daily 10–17 photographers, as well and eddas. and the gallery is run as works from old Weekends from 13–19 Museum on the as an archive on the Icelandic masters both history of photography. Dwarf Gallery without any govern- and by appointment on founding of Reykjavík. for display and sale. Grundarstígur 21 ment funding. weekdays. Located in the oldest Sigurjón Ólafsson Located in a renovated | H8 Gallery Ágúst Gel Gallery house in the city. Tours Museum Hverfisgata 37 | stable off Laugavegur, in English on Mondays Laugarnestangi 70 Opening Hours: Fri Baldursgata 12 | F9 H7 and Sat 18–20 Mon–Fri 13–18 / Sat features work by local and Saturdays at 14.00 Features a permanent Wed–Sat 12–17 artists. www.this.is/birta www.galleriagust.is 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Reykjavík Art Gallery exhibition of sculptor www.myspace.com/ Sigurjón Ólafsson’s An independently Gallerí Ágúst is a The National Film Skúlagata 28 | H6 run basement Gallery, contemporary art gallerigel Archive Tuesday through works. Gallery Dwarf hosts gallery in the centre Both an art gallery and Hvaleyrarbraut 13 Sunday 14–18 exhibitions which of Reykjavík. With an a barber shop. Way www.kvikmyndasafn.is The city’s public art speak straight to the cool. The National Film B5 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Listings Movies BV`^c\d[VCVi^dc Shorts And Docs =Zg^iV\ZVcY=^hidgn ReykjavÌk Short&Docs Film Festival as the Oscar and Sundance winning and his recent awarding winning Los ^c>XZaVcY opens on August 22nd -30th this year, documentary “Freeheld:The Laurel Angeles Plays Itself . at the Landmark Theatre Austurbæ- Hester Story”. >XZaVcY»hZmigVdgY^cVgn]^hidgn jarbÌó, premiering new Icelandic short Special events include a film pro- Website:www.shortdocs.info films and documentaries. This time gram focusing on Icelandic rock-history [gdbhZiiaZbZciidegZhZciYVn around, the festival is held in asso- at Hljómalind Café on Laugarvegur, as When:

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Art Fashion Protest art Killer

Winner of the Art Prize of the Sparda towners flock to see Hallssons work, Whale Bank Hannover in Germany, Hlynur for its inspiration, for its heart and most Hallsson’s presents his affecting instil- importantly, for a place where it seems Fashion lation. Hallssons past work has been the brain has not left its artists. compared to anonymous graffiti and This prolific and inspired exhibi- the content is sometimes explicit and tion hold with it an insight into the Mundi, the exuberant Icelandic fashion aggressive, with shading from London mind of Hallsson, revealed in his moral designer, will have a new show Friday artist ‘Banksy’. Hallsson’s work presents conscience and his predatory approach the 15th of August at NASA. Doors a written challenge to post-capitalist to photographic viral and video artwork- open at 19:00 with drinks and live music imperialism, like the (Iraq) war – which using walls for what words were made and the show will begin at 20:30. “I has, from this standpoint become a for- to reach people. think it will be something quite ex- mere police action no longer requiring traordinary,” says Mundi, but he would UN approval. When: prefer to keep the theme a mystery. Iceland’s arts scene is a clear August 16 - September 28 Following the show there will be an example of how creative’s are far from Opening hours: after-party with several bands and DJs. disheartened by their harsh surround- weeekdays: 10:00-17:00 “If people are in a mood to party, then ings. Art, as they say, is the heart of a saturdays: 12:00-17:00 we will party” Mundi promises. nation-everything about a place that Where: Mundi has been designing for reflects, and is reflected in its people The Living Art Museum several years. When asked what his and in the activism of its artists. Much Grettisgata inspiration has been he gives a simple of Iceland is geared towards the ap- response: “Lions and Fish.” He goes preciation of its buoyant arts scene, 5 G7 on to explain the concept. “I really like it is no wonder why so many out-of- how lions eat the sheep and how the fish group together and swim around.” While there are sure to be human models at the show, Mundi says that he designs primarily for killer whales than for men or women.

What: Mundi’s fashion show When: Friday, 15th of August 20:30 to 22:00 Where NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2 1 E6

B6 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Woolens factory sto r e , Genuine woolen goods, Listings located in Vik made in Iceland ______The Nordic House Vatnasafn / Library of Water June 14 – Aug 31 Permanent exhibition: Also wide selection An exhibition celebrating the 40th Roni Horn installation. She has anniversary of the Nordic House. replaced stacks of books with of souvenirs The Numismatic Museum glass columns containing water Permanent exhibition: gathered from Iceland’s glaciers The Central Bank of Iceland and and glacial rivers. the National Museum of Iceland Akureyri Art Museum jointly operate a numismatic July 5 – Aug 24 collection consisting of Icelandic Summer Exhibition: Guðmundar notes and coins. Ármann Sigurjónsson Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 retrospective exhibition Permanent exhibition: GalleriBOX The Settlement Exhibition Aug 30 – Sept 9 Reykjavík Art Gallery Siggi Eggerts Current exhibition: Veggverk Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már Current exhibition: Pétursson and Tolli Painting by Bridget Kennedy Reykjavík Art Museum Kunstraum Wohnraum – Ásmundur Sveinsson (Home gallery) Sculpture Museum July 5 – 20 Sept Víkurprjón ehf Permanent Exhibition Huginn Þór Arason exhibition Phone: 487-1250 The Shape of Line Skaftfell A new retrospective of works June 7 – Sept 14 www.vikwool.is by Ásmundur Sveinsson. The Audovision: Various artists exhibit exhibition focuses on abstract at the west-wall. In this series of works from 1945 onwards. exhibitions the curators choose Reykjavík Art Museum together visual artist and sound – Hafnarhús artists as a pair. Curators are ey survived a night at Paddy’s...... Can you? May 15 – Aug 24 Ingólfur Arnarsson and Elísabet Hafnarhús – Experimental Indra Ragnarsdóttir. On July 19, Marathon Reykjavík: Hafnarhús Ólöf Helga Helgadóttir and Kira turns into a major laboratory Kira open their exhibition. where leading artists, architects, June 28 – Aug 3 film-makers, and scientists Summer Exhibition: Curating will create an environment this year is Gudmundur Oddur of invention through various Magnusson. experiments and performances LÁ Art Museum (in English). Curated by Hans Current Exhibition: Exhibition on Ulrich Obrist and Ólafur Elíasson. the works of visual artist Magnús Reykjavík Art Museum Kjartansson. – Kjarvalsstaðir 18 May – 31 Aug Dreams of the Sublime and Nowhere in Contemporary Movies Icelandic Art: This exhibition includes many new works of photography Hellboy 2: The Golden Army and video art by Iceland’s most Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, outstanding artists, building on Regnboginn, Sambíóin Selfossi their disparate ideas about nature Kung Fu Panda as a phenomenon. Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin 18 May – 31 Aug Kringlan Where Am I?: An exhibition in Love Guru Paddy’s Irish Pub ✳ Hafnargata 38, Reykjanesbær ✳ phone: 421-8900 ✳ www.myspace.com/paddysforever which children and adults can Smárabíó, Sambíóin Kringlunni, contemplate their planet, their Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó, Sambíóin country, and the landmarks of Keflavík their environment. Mamma Mia! 18 May – 31 Dec Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key Álfabakki, Borgarbíó, Regnboginn, Works: The current exhibition Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin in Kjarvalsstaðir’s east gallery Selfossi features key works from the Meet Dave museum’s collection along Smárabíó with works on loan from the The Dark Knight Labour Unions’ Art Gallery and Sambíóin Álfabakki, Háskólabíó, from the collection of Ingibjörg Sambíóin Kringlan, Sambíóin Guðmundsdóttir and Þorvaldur Keflavík, Sambíóin Akureyri, Guðmundsson. Sambíóin Selfoss Reykjavík Maritime Museum The Incredible Hulk Current Exhibitions: Regnboginn Living Museum by the Sea; The Strangers Arterial for Country and City; Smárabíó, Regnboginn, Borgarbíó From Poverty to Abundance; The WALL-E Shark – Light and Life Energy; Smárabíó, Sambíóin Álfabakki, Hidden Craftsman. Sambíóin Kringlan, Laugarásbíó, Reykjavík Museum Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin (Árbæjarsafn) Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfossi BOSTON Current exhibitions: Wanted Building Techniques in Reykjavík Sambíóin Álfabakki BAR - LAUGAVEGUR 28B-2nd floor 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – Get Smart tel. 517 7816 Different cultures?; Christmas is Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Coming; History of Reykjavík – Kringlan, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin open 17-01 weekdays 17-03 weekends from farm to city; Memories of a Keflavík, Sambíóin Akureyri, House; Living and Playing Sambíóin Selfossi The Reykjavík Museum of The Mummy: Tomb of the Photography Dragon Emperor May 31 – Aug 31 Smárabíó, Sambíóin Álfabakki, Skovbo: Exhibtion by Viggo Sambíóin Kringlan, Laugarásbíó, Mortensen Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfossi Permanent exhibition: Skrapp Út Works of sculptor Sigurjón Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Borgarbíó Ólafsson. X-Files: I Want to Believe Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Kringlunni, Borgarbíó OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Feast of Love August 20 Hafnarborg Tropic Thunder July 26 – Aug 25 August 27 Wavelengths: Exhibition by Sveitabrúðkaup Creighton Michael. August 29 July 26 – Aug 25 Star Wars – Clone Wars Exhibition: Nicaraguan Ceramics. August 29 The Icelandic Settlement Centre Permanent exhibitions: The Settlement of Iceland; The Saga of Egill Skalla-Grímsson Current theatre productions: Events Brák – a monologue by Brynhildur Culture Night Gudjonsdottir Sat August 23 Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue Poetry, free waffles, fireworks, by Benedikt Erlingsson Cuban Music, water art, B7 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Listasafn Reykjavíkur Listings Reykjavik Art Museum Event Akureyri celebration

The town of Akureyri throws this concerts, outdoor theatres, and art celebrated festival this last Saturday installations. Every year, the celebration of August; the celebration is also the has also been the starting point for the

grand finale of the Akureyri Art Sum- Icelandic Visual Arts Awards. An exhibi- Bergmann Olga Schwartz Martha mer, an annual celebration of the arts tion of the works of the nominated artist in Akureyri. The fete will be launched in opens Saturday at the Akureyri Art Kjarvalsstaðir the town’s pleasance on Friday night, Museum. May 18 – August 31 May 18 – August 31 May 18 – August 31 May 18 – December 31 although most of the celebrations are Dreams of the Sublime and Where am I? Martha Schwartz – Jóhannes S. Kjarval scheduled for Saturday. Subsequent When: Nowhere In Contemporary I Hate Nature – ‘Aluminati’ to the opening ceremony the infamous August 29-30 Icelandic Art Ghost-parade will commence. Satur- Where: Curated by Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir day’s program highlights Symphony Akureyri Reykjavik Art Museum Roger Hiorns Roger

Hafnarhús Ásmundarsafn May 15 – September 7 March 31, 2007 – August 31, 2008 Experiment Marathon The Shape of the Line Reykjavik Curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Olafur Eliasson

Kjarvalsstaðir, by Flókagata Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17 Ásmundarsafn, by Sigtún Free admission. Open daily 10 a.m. – 5 p.m Open daily 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Open daily 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursdays to 10 p.m.

www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201

Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, You save at the pink stations Hveragerði, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður Akranes, Hafnarfjörður, Súðavík Njarðvík, Sandgerði, Akureyri Egilsstaðir

Neskaupstaður Kópavogur, Neskaupstaður, Stykkishólmur Grundarfjörður Grundarfjörður, Hreðavatnsskáli reggae, knitting, line dancing, The fete will be launched in Akranes Hveragerði children’s workshops, pianos, Akureyri’s dear town’s garden Stykkishólmur, Súðavík, Reykjavík lotteries, lectures, accordions, that will be lit up and for many Sandgerði Selfoss Njarðvík opera silent films, choirs, silent walking around in the garden in Ísafjörður, Vík í Mýrdal Hafnarfjörður movies, electro, model boats, the twilight zone is the festival’s

free hugs, video installations, climax. Subsequent to the and Hreðavatnsskáli have Vík folk songs, photo exhibitions, opening ceremony the infamous sound sculptures, fashion Ghost-parade will commence. more than just stunning The Orkan network is growing steadily, offering more savings shows, handbag swapping, The festival’s program is varied throughout Iceland. Keep an eye out for the Orkan petrol stations and theatre, children’s music, pop and you can find events such nature and beautiful take advantage of our lower prices. music, antiques, old machinery, as Symphony concerts but also vegetarianism, drawing, sagas, various artistic instalments on the people in common! chalk art, sour bread, oil paints, streets. www.orkan.is

jazz, chamber music, mannequins, The Opening of Skólavörðustígur DYNAMO REYKJAVIK punk, documentaries, Big Bands, Sat August 16 salsa, coffee, chocolate, novels, The glamorous street of bicycle wars, beer Denmark, Skólavörðustígur has been graphic art, charity, quizzes, tango closed for a while due to some and much more. construction work but this Satanatasar Gathering Saturday it will be opened Sat August 23 again and that is of course The opening segments of the a tremendous reason for P.I.O. trilogy will be launched in celebration. The fun will begin Gallery Lost Horse this Saturday with the mayor opening the street August 23. The gathering itself is at 2 PM and several acts will be subsequent to various projects performed all day through. The P.I.O has been working on but the selection is rather grand but rugged rockers in Singapore Sling upcoming band such as Gavin will hold P.I.O. in this exhibition. Portland, Retro Stefson and Agent The of the while thing is to bridge Fresco will allow by-passers to the gap between Rock’n’Roll and check out their new stuff and visual art more thoroughly than various dance groups and artists before. Guests will be offered a will show their skills. chaotic state of mind in numerous ways and finally Singapore Sling will premiere a pair of new music videos. Akureyrarvaka Sat August 29 The town of Akureyri throws this celebrated festival this last Saturday of August; the celebration is also the grand finale of the Akureyri Art Summer. Useful Numbers A B C D E F Emergency number: 112 Police: 444 1000 Medical help: 1770 Dental emergency: 575 0505 AA: 551 2010 1 Information: 118 RESTAURANT Telegrams: 146 Press reviews: Tax Free Refund .. Probably the best Iceland Refund, Fiskislóð addition to Icelandic A›alstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 www.icelandrefund.com restaurant landscape 2 .. Great food, Opening Hours Grandagarður something new in Bars and clubs: According to regula- tions bars may be open until 01:00 on Iceland, like never weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. seen before Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Fine dining Indian closed. The shopping centres Kringlan The Old Harbour cusine, hard to beat and Smáralind as well as most super- 3 anywhere!! markets and tourist shops have longer Ánanaust M opening hours. ýra rgata Frakkastigur 12, Swimming pools: tel: 551-7722 weekdays 06:30-22:30, weekends Nýlendu open 17 til late 08:00-20:30 although some may be open gata www.indianmango.is an hour longer. 4 The State owned ÁTVR liquor stores: Framnesvegur Ránargat Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat 11-18. Vesturgata a Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bárugata Geirsg 09-16. ata Tourist Information Öldugata gisgata Bræðraborgarstígur Icelandic Travel Market Æ Tr Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, ygg 5 vagata

www.kleif.is rðastræti a

Information on day tours, accommoda- G tions, car rental and everything else you Túng Hafnars Skú Sæbrau ata træti lagata need to know when travelling in Iceland. Austurstræti ðalstræti 6 t A Lindargata Tourist Information Centre 1 7 A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Ban www.visitreykjavik.is kastræt Sæbraut 6 a Hverfisgata ígur Offers information for tourists as well as Hofsvallagata Sólvalla rgat i a i providing internet access, booking ser- kj gata æt vice, a phone centre, money exchange ser- Læ r lapparst 2 K vice, tax refund and selling the Reykjavík ti Laugave a Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Tourist Card Hringbraut rgata t gholtsstræti atnsstígur a V n Ingólfsst gur Borgartún gives admission to city busses, various Þi museums, Reykjavík swimming pools, Suðu Sk Hverfisgata jarnarg The Family Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The 7 T ólavörðustígur

Culture House and the National and Bergstaðarstræ

University Library. City Pond Laufásvegur

Skúlagata tún Getting Around a rakkastígur Laugavegur F Nó Fríkirkjuvegur Public Transport Óðinsgata Grettisgata r The only public transport system in u Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- 8 Vitastígur ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 Njálsgata Hátún ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. Snorrabraut Birkimelur Bergþórugata Barónsstíg Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: Baldursgata 540 2700 Laugavegur Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- Sóleyjargata Brautarholt

stígur days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends r Bragagata Njarðargata Taxi 9 Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, Skipholt Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Rauðará Skipholt

rgata Bergstaðars BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Eiríksgata Barónsstígur tún Hljómskáli a For disabled travellers: Suðu Hringbraut Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Park Nó L træti Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, aufásv www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ 10 egur travel_service/ Háteigsvegur Snorrabraut Airlines unnarsbraut G r Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, 3 tígu Flókagat Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Vat nsmýrarvegur árs a Air Vestmannaeyjar, r Gamla Hringbraut Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is Rauða Bus Terminal 11 rgata BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10, Njarða Miklatún Park Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is ð í Flybus Bus terminal Hringbrau t u Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus a t angahl B Terminal to Keflavík International L ólstaðarhlíð Airport in connection with all departing Mi m‹gc4
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12 klabraut flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to glumýrarbr n qqq(]chn[g[hc(cm 15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For ri Flybus time schedule see: K www.flybus.is Samferda.net A reasonable choice for the budget traveller. You log on to the website www. samferda.net, choose your destination 13 and hopefully find a travel buddy to share the cost. Domestic Airport

FUN & FINE DINING BY THE HARBOUR RESTAURANT GEIRSGATA 9 101 REYKJAVIK 561 1111 ORANGE.IS COCKTAIL LOUNGE G H I J K L M N

Reykjavík What’s this Ask for a Tax Free Center thing? 1 form & save up to 15% Fiskislóð City Map These things are pretty useful, check it out: Every venue that’s mentioned in our Grandagarður info section gets a little marker like this, which will help you locate it on our map. Say you want to try out “Shalimar” after reading our review - no problem, sir, just look up the corresponding icon on the The Old Harbour map!

Ánanaust M ýra rgata Nýlendu gata

Framnesvegur Ránargat Vesturgata a Bárugata Geirsg ata Öldugata gisgata Bræðraborgarstígur Æ Tr ygg vagata rðastræti a

G H Skú Sæbrau Túngata afnars Austurstræti træti lagata ðalstræti t A Lindargata

Ban Sæbraut a kastræt Hverfisgata Hofsvallagata Sólvalla rgat i a i kj gata æt Læ r lapparstígur K ti Laugave a Hringbraut rgata t gholtsstræti atnsstígur a V n Ingólfsst gur Borgartún Þi Suðu Sk 5 Hverfisgata jarnarg T ólavörðustígur

Bergstaðarstræ

City Pond Laufásvegur

Skúlagata tún a rakkastígur Laugavegur XXXGBSNFSTNBSLFUJT F Nó Fríkirkjuvegur Óðinsgata Grettisgata r u

Vitastígur Njálsgata Hátún

Snorrabraut Birkimelur Bergþórugata Barónsstíg Baldursgata 4 Laugavegur Sóleyjargata Brautarholt

stígur r Bragagata Njarðargata

Skipholt Rauðará Skipholt rgata Bergstaðars Eiríksgata Barónsstígur tún Suðu Hringbraut Hljómskáli a Park Nó L træti aufásv egur Háteigsvegur Snorrabraut

unnarsbraut G r Fl stígu ókagat Vat nsmýrarvegur ár r a Gamla Hringbraut

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Domestic Airport Laugavegur 23 THE ORIGINAL TASTE

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE AUSTURSTRÆTI - 4 Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Eating

Food Shalimar

Reviewed by Marcus Walsh — Photo by Valdís Thor

It may be a very British thing to grab a like reading a well-written blurb of a Where: lager, a curry and then head to a football novel, hoping it lives up to expectations. Austurstræti 4 (E6) match. However, an Indian restaurant Here, it did. I was foaming at the mouth 101 Reykjavik in Iceland feels like home away from before the ingredients even hit the pan, Tel: 5510292 home, because Indian food is second The unblemished service involved the to none in the UK. We arrived at 6pm waitress taking the order and helping 6 E6 before the just-got-off-work crowd – the chef cook it. When she’s on Nan perfect for combing the menu and not duty, it is similar to the satisfaction of How much: feeling rushed. My mouth knew what seeing your pizza dough rolled, or your 1.000 – 3.000 ISK it wanted, something tangy but not too pancake flipped. Viewing the chilli and What we think: hot. My banker friend made a much coriander sprinkled on the bread is more assured choice, plumping for the just too much. She would have been on excellent Murgh Mango Maza. Like cleaning-up-drool duty, if I hadn’t have Romeo and Juliet coming together in focused on something else like my Co- a dish, chicken and mango was a great bra beer. combination. Mmm. Economical with The new chef at Shalimar has just his palette too, my guest ordered the arrived from London. He changes the Peshwari Nan Bread, and the raisins lunchtime menu daily and the restau- and coconut stayed on the right side of rant is already an established midday sweet. institution. Shalimar steps up a gear I went with a Lamb Gosht Jaipuru, in the evening though, and the com- which to quote the menu is: “Lamb prehensive fixed menu means you can cooked in a blend of capsicum, onions, spoil yourself silly with the wide choice. ginger, garlic, and fresh green chillies, So we headed to the match, patting our simmered in exotic Jaipuri spices.” It’s wide bellies, gratified.

we bring the o to sush

Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562

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Food & Drink | Venue finder

Aktu Taktu B5 fine spot for evening the last detail, ensur- Peking and Cantonese Housing Iceland´s Skúlugata 15 | K8 Bankastræti 5 | F6 dining as well. ing a relaxing evening. styles. Great service most renowned res- This drive-in destina- By day a chic little Café Roma 3 Frakkar and good food make taurant, The Gallery, an tion in 101 Reykjavík bistro with good food Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Baldursgata 14 | F9 this one a fine choice. evening here is an un- is busy day and night and a prime location Roma, an Italian deli A seriously Icelandic Grillhúsið forgettable experience. and the burgers are for Laugavegur people and café offers a va- atmosphere and tradi- Tryggvagata 20 | Delicious French- especially tasty. The watching | by night riety of breads, soups tional Icelandic dishes E5/E6 inspired cuisine and caramel shakes are a a stylish bar with a as well as tempting prepared in the good With a menu of rea- fine wines await. local favorite. “whiskey room” and desserts. For a good old-fashioned way. sonably priced home- Humarshúsið American Style manhattanesque bargain, come at RSVP and keep your style food, Grillhúsið Ammtmanstígur 1 Tryggvagata 26 | E5 clientele. lunchtime for the ears pricked for wild has satiated hungry | E7 With a soft bun and Babalú specials. whaling tales! regulars since 1994 One of the oldest res- lots of veggies, you Skólavörðustígur 22A Café Victor Geysir Bar/Bistro with juicy burgers, taurants in the country, can settle into a booth | G8 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | Aðalstræti 2 | D6 sandwiches, steaks the lobster house is and eat for hours. Big It’s tough to miss café D6/E6 Situated in the digni- and fish dishes. known of course for portions for authentic Babalú walking up A hangout for older fied Geysir Building at Hamborgarabúlla its lobster and also American dining. Skólavörðustigur. A foreigners, Victor at- the corner of Vestur- Tómasar (“Bullan”) its impressive cognac Argentína Steak- cozy place for coffee tracts a diverse crowd, gata and Aðalstræti, Geirsgata 1 | D5 lounge. Fine intimate house and cake, the well- both in age and origin, this stylish bistro is Considered by some dining. Barónstígur | I8 worn, homey ambience a rule that extends to always a good place to to be the best real Hressó True to its name with makes it difficult to the musicians that play grab a tasty bite for a hamburger in Reyk- Austurstræti 20 | E6 tender steaks and leave. there. reasonable price. javík, “Bullan” does With a spacious flamingly vibrant South Bæjarins Beztu Domo Garðurinn serve some mysteri- neutral interior and American décor. Gen- Tryggvagata | E6 Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 Klappastigur 37 | G7 ously delicious burgers, a varied lunch menu, erous portions, fine The oldest fast-food in The elegantly deco- “Ecstasy’s Heart” is guaranteed to take the Hressó attracts no wine, liqueurs and ci- Iceland, it is feasibly rated Domo serves a simple, friendly, edge off any hangover. specific type of crowd. gars make an excellent the best hot dog stand delicious French-Asian family-run vegetarian Hlölla Bátar Tap beer and music makes a fair hangout choice in fine dining. in Europe. Don’t be cuisine, excellent sushi restaurant on Klap- Ingólfstorg | D6 Austurlanda- intimidated by the and has a great wine parstígur. Offers an The first sub sandwich on weekends. hraðlestin perpetual line in front list. A sure choice. ever-changing menu shop in Iceland, Hlölla Icelandic Fish & Hverfisgata 64A | H7 – an absolute must and of specials and soup Bátar has a large Chips worth the wait. Eldsmiðjan Though a bit expensive Bragagata 38A | G9 du jours, alongside a selection of creatively Tryggvagata 8 | E5 for take-away, it is well Café Cultura Totally satisfying basic menu named sandwiches Not your average worth it for a spicy bite Hverfisgata 18 | G6 oven-baked pizza Grái Kötturinn with equally imagina- fish’n’chips joint, but of this Indian cuisine. Situated in the inter- with a wide choice of Hverfisgata 16A | G7 tive contents. Good for a healthy restaurant A few tables to the cultural centre, Cultura toppings | snails an Legendary for its early an adventurous bite. using only organic side for those who is a café/bar with a unusual specialty. Well opening ours, the Gray Hornið vegetables and qual- ity fish products. The choose to dine in. cosmopolitan feel. The worth the cost. Order, Cat serves amazing Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 Á Næstu Grösum menu features all sorts take away or eat breakfasts and coffee Since 1979, this Italian spiced skyr side a Laugavegur 20B | G7 of international dishes, comfortably among the that packs a wallop. A restaurant has been special treat. Regarded by many to alongside the staple paintings. splendid way to start a longtime Reykjavík Indian Mango salad and sandwich. be the best vegetarian Fiskmarkaðurinn you off on your day. staple. Famous for its Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 place in town, “First Café Paris Aðalstræti 12 | D6 Great Wall pizza and stuffed cal- Specializing in deli- Vegetarian” offers Austurstræti 14 | E6 Run and co-owned by Restaurant zones, it proudly offers cious dishes from the a healthy and tasty With an outdoor ter- the national team of Vesturgata 6-8 | D5 an affordable menu of Goa region of India, menu of vegetarian race, this café gets chefs, this establish- This Chinese restau- high-quality dishes honed to perfection in and vegan dishes. In- busy on sunny days. ment specializing in rant features a stag- Hótel Holt the owner’s period as AVj\VkZ\jg*(WiZa#*&&((*% dian theme on Fridays With a cosy interior, Japanese cuisine has gering 100+ dishes in Bergstaðarstræti 37 head chef at the Four Seasons. Incredible a hit. fine menu and atten- everything planned to traditional Szechuan, | F7 tive service, it makes a service as well as food. B11 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Eating

Food Hressingarskálinn

Reviewed by Desiree Andrews — Photo by GAS

It’s always a good sign when you walk ing your hunger than you are partying Where: into a restaurant and see an equal mix or hanging out, Hressingarskálinn ‘sdi- Austurstræti 20 of locals and tourists. This was exactly verse menu will fill your belly no mat- Reykjavik 101 what I saw when I went to Hressingar- ter what your budget. From the Caesar Tel.:561 2240 skálinn, on Austurstræti, for what I was salad with satay chicken and parmesan, hoping to be a satisfying dinner. The to lobster pizza with garlic and mozza- 7 E6 atmosphere was as comfortable as my rella, it’s hard to decide what to choose. favourite coffee shop and diner in one, I ordered a broccoli soup in which the How much: complete with a lovely outdoor patio. It rich flavour backed up the elegant pre- 990–1900 ISK was easy to see why it attracted such a sentation nicely. Then I was onto the What we think: mix of restaurant goers. This place was special: catfish in a cream sauce with so laidback, and the staff so friendly, roasted potatoes and steamed vegeta- that if you came for a breakfast you bles. These people know how to cook might want to stay until lunch. With fish and with a glass of white wine, my free wireless internet, power outlets at meal was an experience in pleasure almost every table and one of the best more than just an attempted at filling cappuccinos in the city, why wouldn’t my daily nutritional needs. Speaking of you? pleasure, I have to words for you: choco- The relaxed vibe is nice for the day late cake. Enough said. but once the sun starts to go down, the Hressingarskálinn is the kind of We don´t serve mood becomes a bit more spirited with place where you can eat like a movie star live music starting at 22:00 and run- (Kiefer Sutherland did), or hang out like ning to 1:00 and then a DJ taking over a college student. Either way you’re sure foreigners... until 6:00 Thursday through Saturday. to have an enjoyable time. If you’re more interested in satisfy- because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that makes you feel at home. Tel: (+354) 483-3330, Eyrarbakki - South coast

Jómfrúin becomes a happening restaurant delivering in the country. With a Sushibarinn has re- the summertime. The Lækjargata 4 | E6 and diverse bar. a buffet of authentic diverse fish selection, cently become the talk lamb comes especially These days, good Krua Thai sushi straight to your exquisite lobster soup of the town among recommended. Smörrebröd can be an Tryggvagata 14 | D5 table. and good service, an Reykjavík sushi lovers, Vegamót elusive delicacy. Lucky We dare you to find Pizza King absolute must-try. serving, in our opinion, Vegamótastígur 4 for us out in the colo- a better meal for the Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 Segafredo the very best rolls | G7 nies, it’s alive and well same price anywhere This little place serves Lækjatorg | E6 in city. Vegamót´s kitchen is at Jómfrúin with fresh else. Every dish is not only the cheap- The Italian coffee chain Svarta Kaffi open until 22.00 daily eel imported specially delicious. Just eat what est but largest slices makes its way to Læk- Laugavegur 54 | H8 and sports an appeal- from Denmark. looks best to you on downtown. A local fa- jatorg Square, bringing A cosy second floor ing lunch menu. Come Kaffi Hljómalind their colorful menu. vorite, and open until 6 strong espresso and café, their fame lies for a tasty brunch on Laugavegur 21 | G7 La Primavera on Friday and Saturday Italian lunch snacks partly in their tasty weekends. If you like This organic, free-trade Austurstræti 9 | E6 nights. to grab on the way to Súpa í Brauði (Soup Óliver, try Vegamót café prides itself not Though it sounds Pizza Pronto work or just to enjoy in Bread) and also in and vice versa. only on great lunches strange, La Primavera Vallarstræti 4 | D6 on the spot. their romantic atmo- Við Tjörnina and food but being a serves delicious tra- With a convenient Shalimar sphere. Good for a few Templarasund 3 | E7 strong cultural center, ditional North Italian location and late hours, Austurstræti 4 | E6 early evening drinks. A Reykjavík classic hosting live music as cuisine using only local a good place to snack Shalimar sports the Tapas with menu exclusively well as lectures and produce. A startlingly in between bars. Three conceit of being the Vesturgata 3B | D5 of traditional cuisine, poetry nights. tasty combination and sizes of pizza with northernmost Indian For those with a bit as frequented by tour- Kaffitár a local favorite. a good selection of restaurant in the world of money and time to ists as it is by locals. A Bankastræti 8 | F6 Mokka toppings. A cheap, if and has fine daily spe- spare, Tapas serves perfect opportunity to Kaffitár celebrates Skólavörðustígur 3A unhealthy, choice. cials. We recommend course after course of try Icelandic delicacies. good coffee, and | F7 Prikið the quite addictive delightful miniature Vitabar serves it in abundance, Operating since 1958, Bankastræti 12 | F6 chicken tikka masala. dishes. Also serves Bergþórugata 21 | H9 along with sweet Mokka is the city Part of the Reykjavík Sjávarkjallarinn tasty and unusually af- Really a bar, but best treats and tasty if pricy center´s oldest cof- bar scene for decades, Aðalstræti 2 | D6 fordable lobster. known for its ham- special blends. Eat in fee joint and founder this café/bar has a Elegant Seafood Cellar Thorvaldsen burgers. Burger and or to go, a great way of Icelandic coffee fairly cheap menu and focuses on gourmet Austurstræti 8 | E6 fries for 500 one of to enjoy your morning culture. Regular art attracts a mix of stu- seafood and tantaliz- Dress formally for this the best deals in town, boost. exhibits are always dents and old regulars. ing asian-fusion dishes. fancy spot, and come but Forget-Me-Not Kaffivagninn worth a look. Mostly R&B and Hip- Share the exotic menu, before 12 to avoid a blue cheese and Garlic Grandagarður 10 Nonnabiti Hop on weekends. courses selected by long line. DJs play Extravaganza are alse | D1 Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 Raðhúskaffi | D7 the chef, with a friend Thursdays, Fridays and winners. By the harbor, this “Nonna” is one of Tjarnargata 11 for the most fun. Saturdays. Vor lunch and coffee place the more popular Located in the City Sólon Tíu Dropar Laugavegur 24 | G7 is a gathering place for junk-food places in Hall with a great view Bankastræti 7a | F6 Laugavegur 27 | G7 Though perhaps a all sorts of tough folks. town, renowned for of the pond, this café Truly a jack-of-all An old-fashioned café typical off-lobby res- If you want traditional its greasy sandwiches has a good selection trades establishment. with warm atmosphere taurant/bar/café, don’t Icelandic food, a great and its unique Nonni- of pastries and a good By night a decent res- and generous coffee let it fool you! It’s run L]Vi»h[dgY^ccZgidc^\]i4 place to see another sauce. Open late for a place to relax. Regular taurant, by day a café/ refills. A thoroughly by an award-winning side of Reykjavík. midnight cravings. art exhibits add to the bistro and on Friday pleasant establishment. chef and has a tip-top Kofi Tómasar O Sushi aesthetic. and Saturday nights a Tjarnarbakkinn menu | a wonderful Frændu Lækjargata 2A | E6 Sægreifinn nightclub. Art exhibi- Vonarstræti 3 | D7 culinary experience. Laugavegur 2 | F7 Also called “The Verbuð 8, Geirsgata tions on the walls to Right above the Iöno top it off. Nestled in a basement Train”, O Sushi’s most | D5 theater, an ideal place AVj\VkZ\jg**W location, Uncle Tom´s intriguing feature is Right next to the Sushibarinn to go before shows. IZa (*)**&&*&& Cabin has the feeling a conveyor belt that harbor, Sægrefinn fish Laugavegur 2 | F7 Nice views of the pond of a back-alley London runs around the entire shop is like none other Deceptively ordinary and outdoor dining in DeZc&&/%%"''/%% Café. On weekends it B12 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Shopping SHOPPING Stylist: Erna Bergmann − Models: Eva & Geiri − Photographer: GAS

She wears: Props: He wears: Hat: Vintage - Rokk & Rósir Gnome: Phillip Starck - Epal Visor: Gaspard Yurkievich - Kronkron Top: Costummade - Trílógía Dish: Vintage - Fríða Frænka Shirt: Vintage - Spúútnik Skirt: Vintage - Rokk & Rósir Radio: Tivoli - Kokka Wifebeater: JBS - Guðsteinn Socks: Falke - Cobra Cettle: Vintage - Fríða Frænka Pants: Peter Jensen - Kronkron Shoes: Sonia Rykiel - Kronkron Cups: Hrafnkell Birgisson - Epal Blanket(Seal): Vík Prjónsdóttir - Kronkron Basket: Vintage - Fríða Frænka Table cloth: Rúmfatalagerinn

Shopping | Venue finder

12 Tónar Laugavegur 15 | G7 Laugavegur 29 | G7 to perk up your apart- ing shop with every- A great source for all items of any kind. a wide selection of Rokk og Rósir For whatever women’s Skólavörðustígur 15 All the natural skincare Artist Jón Sæmun- ment. thing from necklaces to kinds of reading mate- Kronkron the colourfully printed Laugavegur 17 | G7 lingerie needs you products from the dur Auðarson’s own fur coats to kimonos. rial, with restaurants on designer products. might have, this is the | G8 G-Star Raw Laugavegi 63B | I8 Second-hand clothing famous geothermal spa hand-printed Rock and the second floor. store to satisfy them. A record label as well Laugavegur 86 | I8 Green Apple This hip new shop Mál og Menning for the fairer sex at a at their outlet here. Roll label, Dead, plus as a store, all the best A store for the Dutch Laugavegur 20 | G7 Kisan stocks the latest trends Laugavegur 18 | G7 reasonable price. Trilogia others. new Icelandic music on Brim jeans brand, an edgy The tiny shop Laugavegur 7 | F7 in everything from A multi-level store with Skarthúsið Laugavegur 7 | F7 CDs or live on Fridays Laugurvegur 71 | H7 Dogma collection with innova- combines massage An interesting mix of socks to sweaters. games, books, souve- Laugavegur 12 | F7 A collection of trendy at 5 PM. Enormous surf wear, Laugavegur 32 | H7 tive details and washes. and other relaxation items from all around KVK nirs and a bustling café Glittery accessory shop designer wear fills skate wear, and snow- Dogma offers street products with organic the world you won’t on the top floor. the shop, summery Aftur Galleri Sautján Laugavegur 27 | G7 stuffed with cheap board shop. clothing with interest- products. find anywhere else. dresses, sweaters and Laugavegur 23 | G7 Laugavegur 91 | I8 Small yet stuffed Nakti Apinn jewellery, bags or other ing prints. Hooded skirts. Aftur’s internation- Börn Náttúrunnar Stocking many hip Gyllti Kötturinn Kisuberjatréð designer shop KVK, Bankastræti 14 | F7 small items. sweaters and T-shirts ally acclaimed label is Skólavörðustígur 17a labels, a unisex store Austurstræti 8 | E6 Vesturgata 4 | D5 which stocks a nice Offers an amazing Skífan The Viking made by both Icelandic proudly displayed here | G8 offering casual busi- One of a few second A lovely gallery/gift selection of local array of colourful de- Laugavegur 26 | G7 Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 and foreign designers in their shop/studio. The basement ness wear to evening hand shops that have shop run by ten artists designs. signer wear as well as Selection of CDs, DVDs This large tourist shop can be found. Álafoss children’s toy store dress wear. popped up in recent and designers where Liborius contemporary media. and computer games sells all sorts of smart sells clothes and toys Fígúra year, Gyllti Kötturinn they sell their products. souvenirs to bring back Laugavegur 1 | F7 Gilbert Laugavegur 7 | F7 Nexus as well as some Icelan- only made of organic Skólavörðustígur | also offers some pieces home. The downtown outlet G8 Laugavegur 62 | H8 Kolaportið One of a kind, very Hverfisgata 103 | I8 dic films with English products as well as This shop features by locals. for famous makers of Watchmaker Gilbert Tryggvagata 19 | E5 high-end shop featur- The biggest comic subtitles. Þorsteinn Bergmann books about childcare Icelandic designer traditional Icelandic Guðjónsson has sold Handprjóna- Open on weekends, ing the latest, crispest book and gaming store Spúútnik Skólavörðustígur 36 and parenthood. wear, everything from woolens. watches and clocks on sambandið you can get a bargain designs for both sexes. in Reykjavík has some- Laugavegur 32 | G7 | G8 street clothes to party Belleville Cintamani Laugavegur for over 40 Lækjargata 2A | E6 on almost anything at Marimekko thing for everyone. One of the best Since the 1940s this Laugavegur 11 | dresses. years. Recently, Gilbert All sorts of hand knit this indoor flea market. small store has offered Laugavegur 25 | G7 F7 Laugavegur 56 | H8 Noland second-hand shops Featuring quality Friða Frænka designed his own line woollen clothing as a huge selections of Stuffed with trendy Kraum Finnish designer brand Laugavegur 32 | H7 in the country, with Icelandic outdoor gear, Vesturgata 3 | of wristwatches. well as fine yarns and household supplies for streetwear designs as D5 Aðalstræti 10 | D6 Marimekko has found A new skate shop recycled clothes at a well as funky maga- you can even book an A real treasure chest of Glamúr knitting supplies. Featuring the best in its spot on Laugav- offering fresh tees and range of prices. a laughable low price. excursion on the spot. antique furniture and zines and media. Laugavegur 41 | H7 Iða contemporary Icelandic egur. The Marimekko sneakers from Krew, Systur vintage accoutrements Blue Lagoon Store Dead A flashy vintage cloth- Lækjargata 2A | E6 design of everyday concept store stocks Supra and more. Laugavegur 70 | H7 Grab a free copy at your hotel or nearest tourist info www.designdistrict.is

Autumn Autumn HaustHaust 20082008 Tómstundaiðja fyrir börn og unglinga TómstundaiðjaActivities for Children andfyrir TeenagersTeenagers börn og unglingaTeenagers Activities for Children and

577 2555 - www.hreyfi land.is - mottaka@hreyfi lan.is yfi land.is - mottaka@hreyfi lan.is Frístundir Ísland -Frístundir Stangarhylur Ísland 7 -- ReStangarhylurykjavík - Sími 7 - Reykjavík577 2555 - Símiwww.hre

taka@hreyfi lan.is

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Frístundir Ísland - Stangarhylur 7 - Reykjav B14 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 12 2008 Info / Classifieds

Vitastígur 13, Dalshraun 9, Víghólastígur 21 www.gulalinan.is Practical Info Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tel: 565 3800 Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, The yellow pages Berg Car Rental, Fríkirkjuvegur 5 www.leigulistinn.is Cultural Centres and Tangarhöfða 8, Pentecostal Assembly, Rent a flat Tel: 577 6050 Services Tourist Offices Hátún 2 www.ja.is Hertz, Roman Catholic Church, Icelandic telephone directory Post Office The Intercultural Centre Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 The Intercultural Centre throws occasional Hávallagata 14 Post offices are located around the city as cultural events and conferences but its main well as in the countryside. The downtown Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Where to Get … purpose is to be an information and counsel- Saints, Ásabraut 2 post office is at Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full Work and residence permit: The Directorate ling centre and serve as an advocate for the Useful Information list and info on opening hours visit www.pos- Jehovah’s Witnesses, of Immigration, Skógarhlíð 6, Tel: 510 5400, rights of immigrants in Iceland. turinn.is. Stamps are also sold in bookstores, Where to Learn Icelandic as a Sogavegur 71 www.utl.is. Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 gas stations, some grocery stores and tourist Foreign Language www.ahus.is Seventh-Day Adventists, Insurance and benefits: The State Social Se- shops. Icelandic on the Internet, Suðurhlíð 36 curity Institute, Laugavegur 114-116, Tel: 560 The Icelandic Tourist Board www.vefskoli.is 4400, www.tr.is Embassies and Consulates Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Zen Buddhism in Iceland, United States, www.visiticeland.com Mímir Continuing Education, Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Icelandic citizenship: Unless you come from a Laufásvegur 21, All information needed before travelling in Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Independent Church, Nordic country, foreign citizens have to have Tel: 562 9100 Iceland. Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Háteigsvegur 101 had an unrestricted residence permit in Ice- land for at least seven years in order to get an United Kingdom, Nordic House Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 The Russian Orthodox Church in Iceland, Icelandic citizenship although some excep- Laufásvegur 31, Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Fjölmenning, Sólvallagata 10 tions exist to that general rule. Applications Tel: 550 5100 www.nordice.is Laugavegur 59, Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmen- The Cross, are at the Ministry of Justice and Ecclesiasti- The Nordic cultural centre organises various ning.is Russia, Hlíðasmári 5-7 cal Affairs, cultural events, conferences and exhibitions. Garðastræti 33, The Icelandic College of Engineering and Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also offer Tel: 551 5156 Technology, www.domsmalaraduneyti.is brochures, maps and information for travel- Höfðabakki 9, Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is Trade Unions China, lers. Unemployment benefits: Directorate of Víðimelur 29, Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, The Icelandic Federation of Labour, Labour, Public Employment Service, Tryggva- Tel: 552 6751 Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, gata 17, Tel: 515 4800, For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Affairs: Transportation www.ir.is www.asi.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is www.mfa.is/diplomatic-missions/icelandic- The University of Iceland – The Federation of State and Municipal Icelandic social security number (kennitala): missions/ Rent a Bike Department of Continuing Education, Dun- employees, National Register, Borgartún 24, Tel: 569 Grettisgata 89, Internet Access Borgarhjól, hagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, 2900, Hverfisgata 50, www.endurmenntun.is Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is www.thjodskra.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Internet Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net The Association of Academics, access. Language School Lingva, Driver’s license: Applications at police sta- Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, Computers with Internet connections are HI Hostel, The University of Iceland, at Sturlugata. Tel.: tions.(Those who have a foreign license www.bhm.is available at: Sundlaugarvegur 34, 561 0351, www.lingva.is don’t need an Icelandic one for the first six Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Efling, months.) Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, Tel: 563 Tjarnargata 11 Tourist Information Centre, Religious Movements Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, www.efling.is 1100, www.rsk.is BSÍ Bus Terminal, www.visitreykjavik.is The national church in Iceland is the Evangel- The Commercial Workers’ Union, Social Service: Information and service is pro- Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 ical Lutheran Church. Masses are generally Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is vided by district service centres in Reykjavík. Ground Zero, held on Sundays at 11:00. Service in English Union of Public Servants, To locate the service centre in your neigh- Vallarstræti 10 Car Rentals is at Hallgrímskirkja every last Saturday each bourhood see: www.reykjavik.is month, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Grettisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is The Reykjavík City Library, Átak Car Rental, Church also has masses in English and Pol- Tryggvagata 15 Smiðjuvegur 1, ish. The National and University Library, Tel: 554 6040 Useful Websites Other religious movements in Reykjavík are Arngrímsgata 3 ALP, for example: www.visitreykjavik.is Tourist Information Centre, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 The official tourist website of Reykjavík The Muslim Association of Iceland, Aðalstræti 2 Avis, Ármúli 38 www.gayice.is Icelandic Travel Market, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Information about the gay scene in Iceland Ásatrú Association, Bankastræti 2 Eurocar, Grandagarði 8 www.fjolmenningarsetur.is Laundry Service Hjallahraun 9, The Multicultural Centre Tel: 565 3800 Bahá’í, HI Hostel, Álfabakka 12 www.hostel.is A.G Car Rental, Hostel International in Iceland Sundlaugarvegur 34, The Church of Evangelism, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.vinnumalastofnun.is Tel: 587 5544 Hlíðasmári 9 Úðafoss, Public employment services Atlas Car Rental, The Icelandic Buddhist Movement,

Classifieds Classified ads are free for individuals! If you want to place a classified ad, email [email protected]

I’m a student. I was coming on the Iceland for two months and I looking for a job. Last holiday I was working in the room service and I was a babysitter. I speak english well. e-mail: [email protected]”

Married couple, early 30’s visiting from Toronto seek accomodation for fri August 22 + sat 23 of August in Rekjavik. com- Tel: +354-4831504 | www.husid.com pensation $$$. Pls. email 5deadlyrecords@ gmail.com for discussion. Accommodation Opening hours: 11.00 - 18.00 May 15th - September 15th Hótel Vík or by arrangement. Tel: 588-5588 Email: [email protected] www.hotelvik.is One of the best 3 star hotels in Reykjavík.

Dimmuborgir Guesthouse Geiteyjarströnd 1, 660 Mývatn 4644210 [email protected] www.dimmuborgir.is Located right next to the peacefull lake companies or individual who want movies Mývatn, surrounded by Icelands most on high standards. With friendly prices. popular wonders of natur, the Dimmubor- Contact at [email protected]. gir Guesthouse offers room and nice cottages for a resonable price. Education: Gesthús Dúna Suðurhlíð 35, INTENSIVE ICELANDIC COURSES: I-IV 105 Reykjavík Level I: 4 weeks Md-Frd; 18-19:30 Tel: 5882100 / Fax: 5882102 12-7, saturday 12-6 start 18/8, 15/9. Level II: 7 weeks; Md/ [email protected], [email protected] Wd/Frd; www.islandia.is/duna and thereby getting the opportunity to 20-21:30 start 18/8, 6/10. Level III: 10 B&B ROOMS FROM 5.000.- SLEEPNG BAG get out and see this beautiful coun- Job needed: weeks; ACCOMMODATION try for ourselves. The car is a dark blue, Tsd/Thrd; 20-21:30 start 23/9, Level IV: 5-door Mazda 323 from 1997, driven Photographer with experience. Family 10 weeks; sat/sun 10-11:30 start: 27/9. 193.000 km. Recently checked, next check pictures, individual photo shoots, children School of Icelandic, Ármúli 5, s.5881169. For sale: is September 2009. 200.000 ISK. We hope photography, weddings, other memorial www.icetrans.is/ice others will enjoy our wonderful car after moments and low price. Please check my We are moving abroad and are selling lots we have left. Call 8645823 or e-mail: kasu- pictures onhttp://picasaweb.google.pl/ Qualified English teacher (native British of good stuff for cheap prices: Ikea kitchen [email protected] lukaszsalata. Contact at chrumm@interia. speaker) available for private lessons. table with cabinet and shelves, sofa, TV- pl or by phone: 6174321 Masters Degree Applied Linguistics and table on wheels, 4 x black folding chairs, The monastic shop “Klausturvörur” is a TESOL qualified (University of Cambridge). kitchen appliances and more. Please call store specializing in cosmetics, delicates- Do you need to keep you memory intact Call Russell 849 7337 or e mail: russellal- 8439126 sen and artifacts made by nuns and in a professionally way and format? [email protected] for further details monks in monasteries across Europe. Herb Your weeding, party, business speech or We will be selling our car in the end of teas, honeys, jams, chocolade, creams, meeting can be professionally recorded august, as we are moving to Denmark perfumes, shampoo, soaps - unique in on DVD. Accomodation wanted: then. As foreigners living in Iceland, Iceland! Garðastræti 17 101 Reykjavík tel. Cameraman with 7 years experience in we have really enjoyed having a car, 551 5445 Opening hours: monday-friday european television I offer my services for My name is Karolina, I’m 20 years old and The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really

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C82:4CB)FFF<8388BB:Ô50=A42>A3BC>A4 REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT AUGUST 23 2008 FULL SCHEDULE REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23

Annual Fire- works Display

Sæbraut at 23:08

Icelanders are somewhat well known for go- ing overboard on New Year’s Eve, you know, with the fireworks. In recent years, govern- Concerts at Miklatún ment and city officials have started putting on ever more impressive organised fireworks displays, raising the expectations of Reyk- Miklatún Park from 19:00 – 22:30 javík’s citizens even further when it comes to pretty fire in the sky. The massive display planned for Culture Night will take place Among the highlights of Reykjavík Culture Their performance at the 2007 Iceland dönsk, one of the most popular groups in safely out at sea just off Sæbraut at 23:08 Night this year will be the grand outdoor Airwaves festival was a great success and Iceland’s history, but the band is celebrat- (the correlation with the date 23.08 is not by concert at Miklatún park, featuring some they are rumoured to have put in quite a ing its 20 year anniversary this year. The chance). The colourful fireworks will be visible of the country’s most popular bands for few rehearsals since. concert is scheduled to end at 22:30, right for many kilometres and are unlikely to disap- more than a three-hour show. The park is The dance-pop phenomenon Bloodgroup before the annual firework display which point anyone. one of the largest outdoor concert venues has kept Iceland’s youth dancing since the will mark the end of Culture Night 2008. in the city, located only minutes away release of their album Sticky Situation last Rás 2 has been an active participant in from Hlemmur. This large-scale event is year. Hjaltalín was selected as the bright- Reykjavík Culture Night for years and has organised by the Icelandic radio station est hope at last year’s Icelandic Music great experience in organising concerts Rás 2 in collaboration with Landsbankinn Awards, and the success of their album of this size. In 2003, Rás 2 organised a Bank, Culture Night’s biggest sponsor, and Sleepdrunk Season is well deserved. show at Reykjavík harbour, to which more is open for everyone free of charge. The buzz on the street though has mainly than 100,000 people flocked downtown This year’s concert features an eclectic revolved around the reunion of musicians to watch, making it the biggest concert in mix of some of Iceland’s most musically Magnús Þór Sigmundsson and Jóhann the country’s history. This year’s musical diverse bands and musicians, bound to Helgason, one of the most successful event will attempt to recapture that same rock your socks. From the West Fjords pop-duo collaboration of the ‘70s. Also excitement! comes Fjallabræður, a men’s choir of performing will be the rockers who ruled sailors and farmers and other odd balls, the ‘90s, Jet Black Joe. The night will know for almost everything besides music. be topped off by a performance by Ný

Free Waffles Hitt Húsið Þingholt neighbourhood from 14:00 – 16:00

Pósthússtræti 3-5 from 14:00 – 18:00 Some residents of the famously cosy Þingholt neighbourhood in downtown Hitt Húsið Creative Summer Jobs – Back Reykjavík have made a conscious effort to to School Special. Hitt Húsið is one of the participate more actively in Culture Night cornerstones in Reykjavík youth culture. this year than previously. To that end, This institution has allowed several creative there will be free home-made waffles on young artists to nourish their ideas for a offer for anyone passing by between 14:00 decent salary during the summer. But as and 16:00. The leaders of the effort claim it usually is, salaries come with an obliga- it’s a way to show that Icelanders are tion. Every Friday, Hitt Húsið’s beneficiaries inherently a hospitable people and to bring have to perform on the streets of down- a more close knit and personal feel to the town Reykjavík, which surely makes a walk quickly growing Icelandic society. Partici- downtown more colourful, and if you’re pating inhabitants are: Sveinn and Gréta, lucky you might be entertained by the Baldursgata 4, Ólöf, Gísli, Sigríður and smooth tones of one of Hitt Húsið house Páll, Freyjugata 28, Þóra and Guðríður, In- bands while preparing for the weekend with gólfsstræti 21a, Ólöf Pétursdóttir, Þórsgata a refreshing beverage. The fun starts at 29, The Nordic Association, Óðinsgata 7, 14:00 and their acts vary from rigorous clas- Auður and Ósk, Baldursgata 1, Guðlaugur, sical trios to deviced theatre performances Guðmundur and Jóna, Bergstaðastræti by the Street Theatre, operated by Hitt 29, Dagur Ólafsson, Þingholtsstræti 7 og Húsið and a part of the Creative Summer Dagur B. Eggertsson, Óðinsgata 8b. program. Here is your chance to immerse yourself in Icelandic youth culture REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23

Time to live and Enjoy

Special Guest Program in Reykjanesbær Muncipal in Reykjavík City Hall

Reykjavik City Hall from 14:00 – 22:30

Reykjavík City Hall plays host to ‘Time to Live and Enjoy’, the special guest program by Reykjanesbær Municipal. This historical and large-spanning venue features a Flight and History exposé on the story of aviation and naval settlements in Keflavík, as well as selected examples from the fleet of Grímur Karlsson – former seaman and captain from Njarðvík – who has passionately built 200 models of Icelandic boats from 1860 to present day. The program also focuses on Iceland’s geographic past and future with slides from the magnificent natural phenomenon, Reykjanes Peninsula, as well as a chance to learn about the 30 year his- tory of Suðurnes Geothermal Companies research in harnessing geothermal energy. The exhibition then looks forward, with a glimpse at the future vision for Reykjanes- bær from 2006–2010. Keflavík is known as the birthplace of Icelandic Rock n’ Roll, so naturally music will feature prominently in the program, with performances from Reykjanesbær Music School’s Big Band and opera singers from Reykjanesbær as well as the Keflavík Men’s Choir. The exhibit ‘Rock and Roll in Iceland’ – from the Icelandic Rock Museum on the early years of rock – is a great warm up to the night’s events which include a grand finale from the King of Icelandic Rock n’ Roll, Rúni Júl’s Rock Band, and the popular reggae- band Hjálmar.

Squares of the Past Sublimely Lost in Iceland

Skólavörðuholt at 14:00 Reykjavík Art Museum from 10:00 – 23:00

Birna Þórðardóttir has lived in Reykjavík all The Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir her life and knows 101’s nooks and cran- hosts an extensive program for this year’s Two on a Square nies like the back of her hand. This is why Culture Night. The program will feature participating in her guided tours of down- musical performances by musicians such town is an excellent idea, for she has the as Faroese singer Sölva Ford – hand- On the Square of Briet Bjarnhéðinsdóttir at 17:00 inside scoop on most things you definitely picked by Reykjavík City’s mayor to per- will not find in any tourist brochures. The form on this year’s event, and the string tour starts on Skólavörðuholt, by the Leif quartet Blúndur og Bogar. Several guided Iceland has a diverse history of folk and musical forms, be the old tales about Eiríksson statue and extends to surround- tours of the musuem’s exhibitons will be music, which spans from old Viking tales trolls, elves and hard winters or epic war ing squares, past and present. It is of offered, such as: “I HATE NATURE” by and Nordic legends. Unlike many other poetry of the Skalds. course available in English – we wouldn’t Martha Schwartz, “Where am I” and the cultures, where the music of yesteryear The duo ‘The Two of Us’ will perform be reccomending it if it weren’t.. collaborative exhibiton “Dreams of Sublime has been forgotten or gone unrecognised, various folk pieces on the Square of Briet and Nowhere.” For those interested in traditional Icelandic folk music remains Bjarnhéðinsdóttir. Their work will span Icelandic cultural heritage, Kjarlvalsstaðir widely performed and celebrated in the many Icelandic folk tunes as well as a look will offer guests a rare opportunity to take twenty-first Century. Reykjavik’s folk com- to the future, juxtaposing these old songs a look behind the scenes and browse the munity has its own life, its own humour with snippets of the new music that has museum’s storage where some of Ice- and its own way of recognising the tradi- arisen from recent Icelandic culture. land’s most valuable artwork is kept when tion of tales that were passed from village not on display. to village. These tales can take poetic

REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23 10:00 11:00 13:00 13:00

10:00 – 18:00 Shape of the Line and 11:30 The Mayor of Reykjavik officially mer crewmembers of the Coast Guard’s Water Carrier Opening of the exhibition starts the Reykjavik Glitnir Marathon. search and Rescue vessel Óðinn welcome 13:40 – 13:55 Danish fashion show for Water Carrier, where 11 artist exhibit 60 Lækjargata. people aboard and share stories of life children. Óðinstorg by Óðinsgata. water colour paintings. The artists will be aboard a search and rescue vessel. Víkin – present on Culture Night and talk with Sjóminjasafnið í Reykjavík, Grandagarður 8. 13:45 Art lottery For the first time; free guests. Curated by Aðalsteinn Ingólfsson. art lottery. All guests get a lottery ticket. Reykjavík Art Musuem - Ásmundarsafn by 13:00 – 15:00 Memory Book 30 year Winners announced every 30 minutes, 17 Sigtún graduation party. The H-class that gradu- times total. Art of all types and shapes go ated from Icelandic School of Performing to winners. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 10:00 – 23:00 Extensive program for Acts in 1978 opens its memory book. all ages in Reykjavík Art Museum – Haf- 12:00 Kraum, Aðaðstræti 10. 13.50 Playing with Art Sigrjón Daða- narhús. Art quiz, rock and horn music. son plays the clarinet and Kristján Karl The current exhibiton The Experimental 13:00 – 24:00 Statues wearing Hats Bragason plays the piano. Gallery Fold, Marathon, the most extensive event the Reykjavík has a lot of interesting statues Rauðarárstíg Reykjavík Art Museum has hosted, featur- 12:00 -23:00 Exhibition of textile sculp- of interesting people, mostly influential ing more than 40 world renowned artists tures by Íris Eggertsdóttir and refresh- people from the past. As dignified as and scientists. The exhibition is curated ments from Tíu Dropar. Verslunin KVK, these statues look, they are all lacking an by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ólafur Elíasson. Laugavegur 58a essential piece of clothing the people they Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús by are based on would never have left home Tryggvagata without: A hat. Helga Rún Pálsdóttur, costume designer will rectify the situation 10:00-23:00 Pancakes and photograhy; and add hats to six statues around town, 14:00 music and flowers. Kaffi Loki, Lokastíg 28. symbolic for the people represented and the times they lived in. Jón Sigurðsson 10:00 - 23:00 Current exhibtions in on Austurvöllur, Skúli fógeti in Fógeta- Kjarvalsstaðir: Dreams of the Sublime and 13:00 garðurinn Park by Aðalstræti, Ólafur Thors 14:00 – 18:00 Danish waffles at the Nowhere in Contemporary Icelandic Art, by Tjarnargata, Jónas Hallgrímsson in Nordic Association. Óðinsgata 7. I Hate Nature / ‘Aluminati’, Jóhannes S. Hljómskálagarðurinn, Hannes Hafstein Kjarval – the museum’s collection, and and King Christian IX in front of Stjórnar- 14.00 – 18.00 Art Tour Aðalsteinn Ingólf- Where Am I? Reykjavík Art Musuem – 13:00 Formal opening of Reykjavík ráð Íslands will all wear hats to celebrate sson, art historian, offers a guided tour Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata. Culture Night at Óðinstorg, - The Culture Night. of the art work belonging to Landsbanki Mayor of Reykjavík opens Culture Night Íslands, every hour on the hour. Program - Þórarinn Eldjárn, Reykjavík’s resident 13:00–15:00 On Contemporary Poetry for children outside. Landsbanki Íslands, artist, performs a poem for Culture Night - Birna Bjarnadóttir and Ármann Jakobsson Austurstræti. Sölva Ford performs a few songs lead a discussion between poets partici- pating in Nyhil’s fourth International Poetry 14:00 Squares of the Past – Squares of 13:00 - 22:00 Norrebro pa Odinstorg Festival. The conference will be conducted the Future Cultural Companion Birna of- World music, sound sculptures, bicycle in two 40-minute sessions. Participat- fers a guided tour of Reykjavík’s squares. 11:00 store, shops and Danish artists. Photo ing poets are: Morten Søkilde, Ida Börjel, The tour starts on Skólavörðuholt, by the exhibitions of Danish subjects from Nor- Kristín Eiríksdóttir, Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl, statue of Leif Eiriksson and extended dicPhotos, Smörrebröd from Brauðbær, Nina Søs Vinther, Ann Cotten, Haukur to surrounding squares, both past and Danish music, beer and water. Már Helgason og Sureyyya Evren. Nordic present. The tour is available in English. 11:00 – 24:00 Black Art Giant wood- Day at Ó Restaurant: Danish smörrebröd House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík. Skólavörðuholt. cuts hand printed on Japanese paper Night at Ó Restaurant: 5 course menu by graphic artist Magdalena Margrét inspired by the Nordic region. 13:00 – 17:00 Living Library The goal 14:00 Vatnslistaverk á Skóla- Kjartansdóttir, exhibited in the window of Reservations at 5116677 of Living Library is to fight prejudice in our vörðuholti. START ART. Storefront window, START society. The library works just like a regular Visual artist Óskar Ericsson and painter ART, Laugvegi 12 b. 13:00 Lazy Town’s children’s race library, except that the books are people. Þórhallur Sigurðsson create waterart from in association with the Reykjavik Glitnir The books are usually representatives of washing machines. Skólavörðuholt. 11:00 – 23:00 Glætan’s Swap Your Marathon. Háskóli Íslands. many different groups in society who often Handbag Day Bring your used handbag are met with prejudice, are subjects of 14:00 Fire and Form in the Red Night and swap it for someone else’s used 13:00 - 17:00 Have you been to Far- inequality and/or social isolation. A living Graphic and potter art by Halla Ásgeirs- handbag. If you don’t have a handbag to awayistan? An open invitation to exotic library is meant to create a situation that dóttir and Aðalheiður Ólöf Skarphéðins- swap, you can buy any of the handbags locations in Farawayistan where you can allows spectators/readers to put their own dóttir. Listhúsi Ófeigs, Skólavörðustíg. there for 500 ISK. The proceeds will go to learn about the life of women in the devel- prejudice and ideas about stereotypes into ABC Children’s Aid. Glætan Book Café, oping world where Icelandic women have perspective. Austurvöllur 14:00-14:20 The band Reimar plays Aðalstræti 9. been working with UNIFEM. Open house modern music. Reimar is five piece that at UNIFEM Iceand on Culture Night. Photo 13:00 - 22:00 Date With the Past will do everything in their power to enrich 11:00 – 23:00 The Culture of India and exhibition, stories and music from Far- Do you want a Polaroid photo of you and the musical atmosphere in Reykjavík on Kenya awayistan. Guests will have an opportunity your loved ones in old costumes? The Culture Night. They play Eastern-European Introduction of Indian and Kenyan culture to learn about the work UNIFEM does Reykjavík Museum of Photography in music with a dash of jazz, hip-hop and by The Friends of India and The Friends of around the world. Centre for the United cooperation with the costume department modern music. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti Kenya. Traditional food, small merchandise Nations, Laugavegur 42, 2. floor. of the Reykjavík Theatre and the antique 3-5. and Bollywood shows all day long. Múltí store Fríða Frænka offers you a chance to Kúltí, Ingólfsstræti 8. Hangmats on Miklatún Tired guests dress up and re-enact the past. 14:00 and 18:00 Salsasquare. The band of Culture Night can lie down to rest in Reykjavík Museum of Photography, Tryg- Los Corcovados plays salsa behind the 11:00 – 24:00 Photography Exhibiton hangmats by María Sjöfn, south of Kjar- gvagata 15, 6. floor. Restaurant Tapas barinn, Vesturgötu 3. in Hljómskálagarðurinn Park Klængur valsstaðir. Miklatún. Gunnarsson has lead a group of mentally 13:00 Three Exhibitions Openings 14:00 – 22:30 Time to Live and Enjoy – challenged people that has worked in 13:00 – 22:00 World Square – Heim- Exhibition of the works of Karl Kvaran from Special Guest Program By Reykjanesbær Hljómskálagarðurinn Park this summer. storgið – Plaza del Mondo – Platz der the private collection of Bragi Guðlaugs- Municipal in Reykjavík City Hall. Grímur’s The camera was always near by and the Welt – Verdenstorvet … Borgarbókasafn, son. Exhibition of 2D and 3D works by Lína Boats: Selected examples from the fleet results will be displayed in the park on Tryggvagata 15. Rut. Exhibition of works by French artist of Grímur Karlsson, former seaman and Culture Night. Hljómskálagarðurinn, við Anne Pesce. Her works are unobjective captain from Njarðvík. Grímur has pas- Hljómskálann. 13:00 – 22:00 Book café on the 1. floor landscape pieces made with a mixed tech- sionately built of 200 models of Icelandic of Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata niques. Gallery Fold, Rauðarárstígur 14 boats from 1860 to present. Reykjavík City 11:00 – 24:00 Giant Kite on Arnarhóll. 15, books and magazines in different Hall. languages to read, free coffee from Café 13.15 Children Workshop. An hour long 11:00-22:30 - Dog Day Celebration D’Haiti, make your own poems, open mice seminar in creating art for children under 14:00 – 22:00 Viewpoint. Sub Rosa’s The last day of the Dog Days is today. The and various acts and events until 10 p.m. 12, brought to you by Gallery Fold Gallery Una Björk Sigurðardóttir and Saga day’s program will be dedicated to dogs. Borgarbókasafn, Tryggvagata 15. Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. Ásgeirsdóttir open an exhibition of video The program is hosted in cooperation with works about immigrants in Iceland. The Gljúfrasteinn, the House of Halldór Lax- 13:00 – 22:00 Photo exhibition on Reyk- 13:30 Guided Walk in Örfirisey. Sigrún work is based on their informal research ness. Dog Missing: Is our Culture being javík square. Artist, musician and writer Magnúsdóttir, director of the Maritime about the reality of immigrants, what are Thrown to the Dogs? Recycled music in an Wolfgang Müller first came to Iceland in Musuem offers a guided walk along their views, hopes and dreams? The exhi- inventive and funny manner at 20:00 and 1990 as a member of the experimen- Örfirisey. Bus trips from Aflagrandi youth bition is open until September 7. 21:30. The Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15. tal band Die Tödliche Doris. He was a centre. Alternatively, join the group by frequent visitor here from 1990 – 95 and HB-Grandi on the north-pier in Örfirisey. 14:00 – 15:00 The Story Chair. María 11:00 – 23:00 Welcome to Listaselið. made Iceland the subject of his art. The HB-Grandi Norðurgarði. Pálsdóttir from Iceland, Kristín Vihjálms- Everybody that visits Listaselið during exhibition comes from Schwules Museum dóttir from Denmark, Maria Helena Sara- Culture Night get a lottery ticket. Coffee in Berlín. Borgarbókasafn, Tryggvagata 15. 13:30 – 13:40 Opening speech by bia from Columbia, Magdelena Mejia from and chocolates. Ernst Hemmingsen Consul of the Danish The Dominican Republic and Salmann Listaselið, Skólavörðustíg 17b 13:00 -17:00 Saviours of the Sea. For- Embassy. Tamimi from Palestine tell stories from their REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23 14:00 14:00 14:00 15:00 homelands. The stories will be in Icelandic 14:00 Knit for Good Knitters are encour- the Ministry for Foreign Affairs do for the and enlightens them about the artwork and and their native tongues. Borgarbókasafn, aged to come to Hallargarðurinn Park economy? Ministry for Foreign Affairs, the artists. Hótel Holt, Bergstaðastræti 37. Tryggvagata 15. with pink yarn and knit something pink Rauðarárstígur 25. to benefit the Icelandic Cancer Society. 15:50-16:10 Hitt Húsið’s Street Theatre Icelandic Rock Musuem Rock and roll Knitters can sell their products on site with 14.30 – 17.30 Created of Art Bjarni Everyone knows Hitt Húsið’s Street The- in Iceland. The exhibit focuses on the early proceeds going to the ICS. More informa- Sigurðsson shapes pottery. Gallerí Fold, atre by now. The group floats around in a years of rock when the Icelandic society tion can be found at www.prjona.net. Rauðarárstíg 14. black and white dream outside Hitt Húsið. was transforming from agriculture to an Hallargarðurinn Park by Fríkirkjuvegur. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. urban lifestyle. Reykjavík City Hall. 14:30 Hafdís Vigfúsdóttir flutist’s Ice- 14:00 -18:00 Sing-along in the Singing land tour’s finale is held in Viðeyjarkirkja 15:00 - 21:30 The nation centre of Flight- and history Museum in Reyk- Academy Public sing-along where every- on Culture night. The concert begins at Baha’is will be open and passers-by are janes A fellowship that aims to preserve one is invited to participate. In between, 14:30, entry is free of charge and every- welcome to enjoy a cup of coffee/tea and the history of aviation and the naval base various choirs will perform. Special guests body is welcome. She will recite the works view the exhibit. 15:30 and 17:30 Power- in Keflavík. Collection of things relating to are Osminka, a children’s choir from the of Telemann, Kuhlau, Tomasi, Takemitsu, point presentations about the history of that era is ongoing. Reykjavík City Hall. Czech Republic. Reykjavík Academy of Piazzolla and various others composers. Baha’i belief in Iceland will be briefed and Singing and Vocal Art. Viðey. at 19:00 Devon Gundry and Einar Ágúst Post Card From Reykjanes Peninsula will amuse guests with musical perfor- is a magnificent natural phenomena and 14:00 – 18:00 Gallerí Ibiza Bunker 14:30 Sourbread With Brown Sugar mance. Office of the Spiritual Affairs of an active volcanic area. Oddgeir Karlsson Finally, finally! Ibiza Bunker – the book – Sour bread with brown sugar and coffee Baha’is in Iceland. Öldugötu 2. and Ellert Grétarsson exhibit slides from comes out!! Gallerí Íbiza Bunker is a new was popular amongst dockworkers of the the area. Reykjavík City Hall. showroom founded in Reykjavík in April past as a snack. Come and taste it by the 15:00 Aikido on Austurvöllur. Members 2008. The gallery aims to exhibit work from dock. Víkin- Reykjavík Maritime Museum, of Aikikai Reykjavík show their skills. Reykjanesbær Time to Live – Time to progressive visual artists of all ages. Nine ex- Grandagarður 8. Austurvöllur Enjoy is the title of a the future vision for hibitions have been opened so far, and seven Reykjanesbær from 2006 -2010. Slide- in cooperation with Hitt Húsið. The book 14.45 Children Workshop Guðbjörg 15:00 Reimar is a quartet that will try their show. Reykjavík City Hall. documents those nine exhibition and will be Káradóttir instructs children. Seminar in utmost to enrich the musical atmosphere available online. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. artistic creation for children up to 12 years. in Reykjavík on Culture Night. They play Energy in Suðurnes Suðurnes Geother- Duration approx. 1 hr. Art tent of Gallerí original music which is a well thought out mal Company has harnessed geothermal 14:00 – 19:00 Shipping in the City Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. mixture of this and that! Borgarbókasafn, energy for over 30 years. The power plants Pond in front of the minister dwelling (sup- Tryggvagata 15. and the geological research of the area are posing weather conditions will be accept- 14.45 Artwork Lottery The third drawing open to all so there is a lot to learn. Blue able) in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. Gal- 15:30 Ólöf Arnalds plays song from her Diamond Promotional video from The Blue lerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. newest album. Ministry for Foreign Affairs, Diamond, a history- and nature theme park 14:00 – 16:00 Waffle Café in Þingholt. Rauðarárstígur 25. Óðinstorg by Óðinsgata. in Reykjanes. Reykjavík City Hall. Inhabitants of the Þingholt area in Reyk- 14:45 – 14:55 Island Panorama exhibi- javík offer visitors waffles and coffee. tion. 13:00 – 22:00 Theatrical performance 14:00 – 18:00 Open Ministry for Participating inhabitants are: Sveinn and on a grassy square Hilmir Jensson og Foreign Affairs; Icelandic Crisis Gréta, Baldursgata 4, Ólöf, Gísli, Sig- 14:55 – 15:45 Readings from the works Ingibjörg Huld Haraldsdóttir create a small Response Unit Display on Iceland’s ríður and Páll, Freyjugata 28, Þóra and of H.C.Andersen for children at the Nordic island in the myriad and performe an participation in peacekeeping projects. Guðríður, Ingólfsstræti 21a, Ólöf Péturs- Association. original piece about sagas and the art of Representatives from the Coast Guard’s dóttir, Þórsgata 29, The Nordic Associa- storytelling. Laugavegur. Explosives Unit and UNIFEM answer ques- tion, Óðinsgata 7, Auður and Ósk, Bal- tions and display their equipment. Civil dursgata 1, Guðlaugur, Guðmundur and 15:00 – 15:45 Valle & Lisbeth sing Danish Service Introduction of service insurance Jóna, Bergstaðastræti 29, Dagur Ólafsson, songs at Odins Bodega. for Icelanders abroad and the civil service Þingholtsstræti 7 og Dagur B. Eggertsson, that assists Icelanders abroad in time of Óðinsgata 8b. 15.00 – 18.00 Created of Art Jóhanna crisis. Páll’s Photos from Africa Exhibi- Hreinsdóttir oil paints. Gallerí Fold, tion of photos by Páll Stefánsson;: Beauti- 14.00 - 17.00 Created of Art. Soffía 15:00 Rauðarárstíg 14. ful Game - Images of Football in Africa. Sæmundsdóttir oil paints in the gallery. The photographer will be present to talk Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 15:00 – 18:30 Program hosted by the about his experience in Africa. Introduc- Assoctiation of Students in Compulsary tion to Painting Icelandic participants 14:00 – 14:45 Line Dancing with Óli 15.00 The Three Tenors, preview from Schools. Ingólfstorg. in the Venice Biennale in Italy exhibit their Geir on Ingólfstorg Dance teacher Óli the Reykjavík Jazz Landsbanki Íslands, entries in cooperation with the Centre for Geir and Dífurnar, a dance company that Austurstræti. 15.15 Artwork Lottery. The fourth draw- Icelandic Art and the National Gallery. Min- recently won the Icelandic Championship ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. istry for Foreign Affairs, Rauðarárstígur 25. in line dancing exhibit what they have been 15:00 Sölva Ford Faroese blues and rock Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. working on. Ingólfstorg. singer Sölva Ford performs a few songs 14:00 -22:00 Better Than New? Esther with guitarist Björgvin Gíslason. Listasafn 15:25-15:45 The Secret Theatre Group Ír Steinarsdóttir and Jóhann Örn Reynis- 14:00 Kaupþing Rocks Kaupþing Austur- Reykjavíkur – Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata Stígis Hálfdán lifnar við. One Hálfdán son exhibit their photograps in Gel Gallerí. stæti welcomes guest with a rocking pro- lead to another and eventually they had Their subject is the unpleasant feeling we gram to 18:00. Kaupþing, Austurstræti 5. 15:00-15:20 Hitt Húsið’s Royal Poet enough to execute their masterplan. have when something breaks. But is any- Sverrir Norland, is one of the younger Where do they come from and where are thing so broken it can’t be fixed? 14.00 -14.45 TR Big Band. After 20 generation’s most promising writers of mu- they going? Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. Gel Gallerí Hverfisgötu 37. years, the Reykjanesbær Music School’s sic and lyrics, plays a selection of songs. Big Band is still going strong under the His music spans the whole musical spec- 15:30 Silver Worms Stretching to 6 me- 14:00 Bring Your Idea to the Square guidance of Karen Sturlausson. Reykjavík trum from folk, jazz to pop and harmonica tres high, twisting and curling into a ball, of Inspiration Do you have an idea City Hall. punk. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. the slinkies thrill their audience with a play- that needs wings? Bring it to the Square ful and eye catching performance. Join in of Inspiration where you can meet with 14.15 Artwork lottery. The second 15:00 EEA – And Then What? Lecture: with the oohs and ahhhs as you witness inspirational coaches who will teach you drawing from the free of charge Artwork Since 1994, The EEA agreement has been this charming story of 2 huge slinkies to work towards your goals. The event will Lottery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. influential in Iceland – what are our options falling in love. Slinky Love is an extremely take place four times on Culture Night at for the future? versatile show that has been performed 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and 20:00. Lýðveldis- 14:20-14:40 Visual Arist duo Flýjandi Ministry for Foreign Affairs, Rauðarárstígur in a huge variety of indoor and outdoor garðurinn Park by the National Theatre Exhibits old and new. Flýjandi premiers 25. situations. The corner of Grettisgata and new material and reruns old material. Vegamótastígur 14:00 Sun Square. New and beauti- Costumes, video installations and possibly 15:00 – 18:00 The Cherry Plaza. Ac- ful mini-square by Kaffi Hljómalind. The performance installations. Who knows? cordion tunes, market stalls and chalk 15:30 Blúndur og bogar String quartet festive square spirit like you’ll find in Paris. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. artworks created in cooperation with by- Blúndur og bogar plays light classical mu- Constant program into the night. Painters, passers. The plaza mood will commence sic and contemporary pop music arranged musicians, hugs, street artists, street mar- 14:30 Silver Worms Stretching to 6 me- again at 20:00 and there will be a mass for strings. Listasafn Reykjavíkur – Kjar- ket, students from the Icelandic Academy tres high, twisting and curling into a ball, sing-along to the sound of the accordion. valsstaðir by Flókagata of the Arts exhibit in the showroom down- the slinkies thrill their audience with a play- kl. 21:00. Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu 4. stairs, Shorts & Docs film festival hosts a ful and eye catching performance. Join in 15.45 Artwork Lottery. The fifth drawing ‘rockumentary’ marathon where guests with the oohs and ahhhs as you witness 15:00 Steinunn Soffía Skjenstad, in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. Gal- can view Icelandic Rock n’ Roll documen- this charming story of 2 huge slinkies soprano and the Norwegian guitarist Sol- lerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. taries. Kaffi Hljómalind, Laugavegi 23. falling in love. Slinky Love is an extremely mund Nystabakk will recite a few pieces. versatile show that has been performed in Their program includes pieces by F. Schu- 15.50 In his unique way. Guðbjörn 14:00-17:00 Numismatic Museum The a huge variety of indoor and outdoor situa- bert and B. Britten as well as Icelandic Guðbjörnsson opera singer recites mellow Numismatic Museum displays its collec- tions. Skólavörðuholt and Norwegian folk songs. Sturlugötu 5. songs accompanied by others. Guðbjörn tion of Icelandic coins and bills from the hardly needs introduction but his sing- past. Central Bank of Iceland by Arnarhóll, 14:30 For the Economy Lecture: For- 15:00 Artwork Experience in Hótel Holt. ing has always been successful in Gallerí entrance through Kalkofnsvegur. eign markets are increasingly important Aðalsteinn Ingólfsson art historian receives Fold’s program on Culture Night. Fold, for Icelandic corporations – what does guests, gives them a tour of the building Rauðarárstíg 14. REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23 16:00 17:00 17:00 18:00

16:00 Ó Ó Ingibjörg. Brothers-sister ful and eye catching performance. Join in 17.00 – 19.00 Created of Art. Mari- caise curates a night of music, poetry and team Óskar, Ómar and Ingibjörg perform with the oohs and ahhhs as you witness lyn Herdís Mellk prints, using the oldest dancing in this old and beautiful house in Icelandic songs. Landsbanki Íslands, this charming story of 2 huge slinkies machinery to do so in Iceland. Gallerí Fold, the heart of Reykjavík. Come and listen to Austurstræti. falling in love. Slinky Love is an extremely Rauðarárstíg 14. the sensual and entertaining program by versatile show that has been performed singer Adeline Moreau from Paris, along 16:00 – 16:30 Fashion show by Danish in a huge variety of indoor and outdoor 17.00 – 20.00 Created of art. Sigurjón with the sisters Herrera who play the cello and Icelandic designers. situations. Bríetartorg on the corner of Jóhannsson water paints. Gallerí Fold, and the harp. Sólveig Simha and Marion Þingholtsstræti and Amtmannsstígur Rauðarárstíg 14. Herrera recite poetry and free-style on 16:00 Iceland and Development Lec- the subject of intoxication. The event will ture: Millennium Development Goals and 16:30 Security and Responsibility Lec- 17:00 Blúndur og bogar String quartet end with a dance with singer Hlín Péturs- Iceland’s participation. Ministry for Foreign ture: A new dawn for security and defence Blúndur og bogar plays light classical mu- dóttir and accordion player Yuri Fedorov. Affairs, Rauðarárstígur 25. in Iceland, How will Iceland deal with being sic and contemporary pop music arranged The program is sponsored by the French responsible for its own defence? Ministry for strings. Listasafn Reykjavíkur ttztKjar- Embassy. Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3. 16.00 – 16.45 Söngvarar af for Foreign Affairs, Rauðarárstígur 25. valsstaðir by Flókagata. Suðurnesjum. Three opera singers from 18:00 – Square of Emotions in Kjar- Reykjanesbær: Bylgja Dís Gunnarsdót- 16:30 – 17:15 Valle & Lisbeth sing Dan- Kl. 17:00 – 20:00 – Behind the Scenes valsstaðir Café. The theme for Culture tir, Jóhann Smári Sævarsson and Dagný ish songs at Odins Bodega. Óðinstorg. A guided tour of the museums storage Night is The Square in the City, and for Þórunn Jónsdóttir accompanied by Gei- space and preservation rooms where the occastion, Kjarvalsstaðir will host a rþrúður Fanney Bogadóttir pianist perform. 16:30 Guided tour - I HATE NATURE / some of the countries most valuable square of emotions in the museum’s café. Reykjavík City Hall. ‘Aluminati’ Landscape architecht Dagný cultural heritage is stored. The tour starts Listasafn Reykjavíkur – Kjarvalsstaðir by Bjarnadóttir guides the tour and discusses every thirty minutes from 17:00. Max ten Flókagata 16:00 – 22:30 Soup and Singing. the ideology behind the works of Martha people per tour. Listasafn Reykjavíkur – Miscellaneous program in the House of Schwartz. Reykjavík Art Museum – Kjar- Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata. 18:00 Salsasquare. The band Los Peace. A photography exhibition by Harpa valsstaðir by Flókagata. Corcovados plays salsa behind the Res- Stefánsdóttir, a peaceful vegetarian soup 17.15 Artwork Lottery. The eight draw- taurant Tapas barinn, Vesturgötu 3 on the house from 16:00 till 19:30, a movie 16.45 Artwork Lottery. The seventh ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. screened at 16:30, poets and highbrows drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 18.00 – 18.45 Accordion Lovers. The chant about peace, war and security is- tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. very active Reykjanesbær Accordion sues at 20:00, the bard Hörður Torfason 17:20 –17:40 Flutter Flute Fun Hafdís Society recently hosted the Icelandic Ac- plays the guitar at 21:00 and various other 16:45-16:05 Únettinn Harpa Sólveig Vigfúsdóttir has performed music in vari- cordion Societies Annual Meeting. They musicians perform at 21:30. The House Thoroddsen plays Celtic folkmusic from ous places around the city this summer, will honour guests of Culture Night with a of Peace, Njálsgötu 87, 101,the corner of Scotland and Wales on an Irish harp Hitt including work sites, cafés and art galler- few songs. Reykjavík City Hall. Snorrabraut against Austurbær húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. ies. She finishes the summer with a well selected program at Hitt Húsið. Hitt húsið, 18.15 Artwork Lottery. The tenth draw- 16:00 The Salvation Army throw an 16:45-17:10 Original jazz Skver quar- Pósthússtræti 3-5. ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. event in the Sheriff’s Garden Soldiers tet plays original jazz compositions for Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. and comrades sing and offer coffee and guests. The group is on of Hitt Húsið’s 17:30 Guided tour – Where am I? waffles. Gospel night in the gathering creative summer job groups. The set Guided tour of the exhibition Where Am I? 18:30 Afleggjarinn Author Auður Ólafs- room at 21.00. Aðalstræti 9. consits of music written and arranged In the north show room. Listasafn Reyk- dóttir reads from her award winning novel by the members this summer. Hitt húsið, javíkur – Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata. Afleggjarinn. Borgarbókasafnið, Tryggva- 16:00-19:00 Children’s festival in the Pósthússtræti 3-5. gata 15. Rocky Village Various activities will be 17:30 Ólöf Arnalds plays songs from her available for younglings in this fair village newest album. Ministry for Foreign Affairs, 18.45 Artwork Lottery. The eleventh downtown and a village cake will be of- Rauðarárstígur 25. drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- fered to passers-by. Rocky Village. tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 17:30 – 22:00 Universal Soundsystem 16:00 Guided tour – Where am I? Guided – Reggie DJs straight from Nørrebro in tour of the exhibition Where Am I? In the Copenhagen. north show room. Listasafn Reykjavíkur – 17:00 Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata 17:30 – 18:00 Bikewars – Custom built bicycles go to war. 16:00 Búlúlala-age of Steinn. The Com- edy Theatre will perform a tribute piece 17:00 Iceland and the Security Council 17:40-18:00 HVIK Dance Company 19:00 devoted to the poet Steinn Steinarr. The Lecture: Iceland is running for the United HVIK transforms into a living sculpture Bookstore Mál og Menning, Laugavegi 18. Nations Security Council – the election in front of Hitt Húsið. The company has is in 54 days. Ministry for Foreign Affairs, worked as on of the Hitt Húsið’s creative 16:00 The newly founded brass band Rauðarárstígur 25. summer job groups this summer. Hitt 19:00 Simbad the Sailors. The actor S.L.Á.T.U.R. performs short pieces at húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. Ketill Larsen and the swamp man Bjarni various locations around town at 16:00 - 17:00 Two on a square The duo The Valtýr Guðjónsson perform, sing and tell 16:45 Parade. Two of Us will perform various folk pieces 17.45 Children Workshop. Guðbjörg the children stories, accompanied by as well as Icelandic pop songs. On the Káradóttir instructs children. Seminar in Nói and Ívar Helgi. At Ófeigur goldsmith, 16:00 Czech Folk Song Group Os- Square of Briet Bjarnhéðinsdóttir on Þing- artistic creation for children up to 12 years. Skólavörðustíg 5. minka – This children’s music group from holtsstræti and Amtmannstígur. Duration approx 1. hr. Art tent of Gallerí Prague performs Czech folk songs about Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 19:00 Under the Parisian Skies Sólveig the different sides of love. The first half of 17:00 Reykjavík Stories. Darren Fore- Simha and Marion Herrera recite poetry the program deals with love from cradle to man, an American actor living in Iceland, 17.45 Artwork Lottery. The ninth draw- and free-style on the subject of intoxica- married life, the second part deals with the gives readings from Icelandic poetry, ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. tion. Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3. more humorous side of love. prose and plays in English. All the texts Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. have some reference to Reykjavík, but are 19.00 – 21.45 Created of Art Guðrún 16.15 Artwork Lottery. The sixth draw- of varying eras and styles. Borgarbókasa- Öyahals operates three-dimensional art- ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. fn, Tryggvagata 15. works. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. 17:00 Turkish Tanoura Dance Egyptian 19.00 – 21.45 Created of Art Hrafnhildur 16:15-16:35 Reykjavík Looks með dancer Ahmed Fekry comes from Germany Bernharðsdóttir illustrates drawings. Gal- gýnur. Reykjavík Looks is the first where he lives and runs a dance school, lerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. streetfashion blog in Reykjavík. The girls when he is not traveling the word to exhibit 18:00 have worked all summer on photograph- and teach dances from the Far East. On 19:00 -22:30 Poppmass at Ingólfstorg. ing well dressed people in Reykjavík. The Culture Night, he well show a dance frome results can be seen on www.reykjavik- Turkey called Tanoura, which is performed 19:00 – 23:00 Love and Destiny in looks.blogspot.com. On Culture Night the by munks to reach a higher state of con- 18:00 The Fifth Season Toshiki Toma, the National Museum Exhibition by the girls will dress up mannequins. Hitt húsið, sciousness Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3. priest for the immigrant community in National Museum focusing on love and Pósthússtræti 3-5. Iceland reads from his poetry in Icelandic, destiny. Guests are offered to draw cards 17:00 - 17:45 The Grand Finale. All the and introduces Japanese poetry. with witty love confessions, love letters 16:15-16:35 Glingur in Pósthússtræti! pieces performed and results announced. will be recited and on the square a warm On Culture Night, classical music will fill Listasafn Íslands, Fríkirkjuvegi. 18:00 –19:00 Nordic Nyhil Friends love exhibition will be operated. Finally the air when the trio Glingur steps on stage The Nordic guests of Nyhil’s Poem Fest we have the souvenir shop were you can outside Hitt Húsið and perform song by 17.00 – 17.45 Keflavík Men’s Choir. recite a few poems. The poets are the purchase love potions, roses and several Beethoven and Glinka as well as Icelandic The choir is working on the release of the Swedish Ida Börjel and the Danish Nina other things related to love. In Kaffitár you composers. Hitt húsið, Pósthússtræti 3-5. CD “ Þú lýgur því” where they have had Søs Vinther and Morten Søkilde. Nordic can get various elixirs and appropriate the most popular pop-songs by musi- House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík. accompanying chocolates At 20:00 og 16:30 Silver Worms Stretching to 6 me- cians from Suðurnes arranged for a choir. 21.30 Aðalsteinn Ásberg recites lovely love tres high, twisting and curling into a ball, Tonight guests will get a preview of what 18:00 -22:00 Under the Parisian Skies poems and chants. The National Museum, the slinkies thrill their audience with a play- to expect. Reykjavík City Hall. French atmosphere in Iðnó. Alliance Fran- Suðurgötu 41. REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT 2008 – AUGUST 23 19:00 20:00 20:00 21:00

19.15 Children Workshop Guðbjörg 20:00 – 22:30 Music Fete in Reykjavík 20.15 Artwork Lottery. The fourteenth sea gourmet while the group performs Káradóttir instructs children. Ca. one Cathedral drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- colourful dance acts. This intercultural hour long seminar in artistic creation for tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. cooperation proves that the islanders of children up to 12 years. Art tent of Gallerí 20:00 Guðbjörg Sandholt and Arnb- all continents have a lot in common and Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. jörg María sing piece by Bernstein, Kurt 20:30 Electro-pop band SOMETIME share the longing for joy. Sjávarbarinn, Weil, Offenbach and more performs in KVK, Laugavegi 58a. Grandagarði 9. 19.15 Artwork Lottery The twelfth draw- ing in the free of charge Artwork Lottery. 20.30 Hallveig Rúnarsdóttir soprano, 20:45 Fræbblarnir, Megasukk og 21:00 – 21:30 Classic Opera and Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. Sólveig Samúelsdóttir mezzosoprano, Palindrome perform in the alley by the Powerful Rock Guests are offered the Jón Svavar Jósefsson bariton and Hrönn restaurant Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3. chance to listen to selected scenes from 19:30 – 22:30 Miklatún on Culture Þráinsdóttir pianist recite music by W.A. the Icelandic Opera’s fall program, includ- Night Landsbankinn, Rás 2 and Culture Mozart. 20.45 Artwork Lottery. The fifteenth ing a new rock musical by Ólafur Haukur Night introduce Concert in Miklatún fea- drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- Símonarson and the operas Paliacci by turing some of the most popular bands in 21:00 Cuban trubadour Juan Alberto tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. Leoncavallo and Cavalleria Rsticana by Iceland; Ný dönsk, Jet Black Joe, Magnús Borges del Pino sings and talks to Mascagni. The Icelandic Opera, Ingólf- og Jóhann, Hjaltalín, Bloodgroup and Fjal- guests about Cuban music. Reykjavík 20.50 In his unique way. Guðbjörn sstræti 7. labræður. Miklatún by Flókagata. City Library, Tryggvagata 15. Guðbjörnsson opera singer recites mellow songs accompanied by others. Guðbjörn 21:00 Premiere - 200.000 naglbítar 19.45 Artwork Lottery. The thirteenth 21.30 Kristinn Bragason pianist and hardly needs introduction but his sing- and the Proletarian Brass Band drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- Sigurjón Bergþór Daðason clarinettist ing has always been successful in Gallerí 200.000 naglbítar and the Proletarian tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14 Reykjavík Cathedral. Fold’s program on Culture Night. Fold, Brass Band have been working together Rauðarárstíg 14 on a full length over the last year. In this 22.00 Júlía Traustadóttir soprano and concert they premier several song waiting Birna Hallgrímsdóttir pianist recite music to be published this autumn. Their coop- by R. Schumann og E. Grieg. Reykjavík eration is considered both interesting and Cathedral. extremely powerful for both parts have been connected to great extravagance. 20:00-23:00 Poem Party Special interna- Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús, Tryg- 20:00 tional guests and a selection of Icelandic gvagata 17. poets recite their works and The Diversion 21:00 Session perform subtle tunes in between. 21.15 Artwork Lottery. The sixteenth These poets will recite: Sureyya Evren (Tur- drawing in the free of charge Artwork Lot- 20:00 Silver Worms Stretching to 6 me- key), Ida Börjel (Sweden), Nina Sös Vinther tery. Gallerí Fold, Rauðarárstíg 14. tres high, twisting and curling into a ball, (Denmark), Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl, Örvar Þ. 21:00 Silver Worms Stretching to 6 me- the slinkies thrill their audience with a play- Smárason, Ragnar Í. Bragason, Jón Örn tres high, twisting and curling into a ball, 21.45 Artwork Lottery. The seventeenth, ful and eye catching performance. Join in Loðmfjörð, Kristín Eiríksdóttir and Ingólfur the slinkies thrill their audience with a play- and also the last, drawing in the free with the oohs and ahhhs as you witness Gíslason. Unorthodox treats between acts, ful and eye catching performance. Join in of charge Artwork Lottery. Gallerí Fold, this charming story of 2 huge slinkies an open bar and the entry is free of charge. with the oohs and ahhhs as you witness Rauðarárstíg 14. falling in love. Slinky Love is an extremely The Carpenter Shop of the National The- this charming story of 2 huge slinkies versatile show that has been performed in atre, Hverfisgata 19, 101 Reykjavík. falling in love. Slinky Love is an extremely a huge variety of indoor and outdoor situa- versatile show that has been performed in tions. Lækjartorg 20:00 – 20:30 Classic Opera and a huge variety of indoor and outdoor situa- Powerful Rock Guests are offered the tions. Austurvöllur 20:00 Halldóra Ársælsdóttir, winner of chance to listen to selected scenes from Reykjavík City Library’s first poetry-slam the Icelandic Opera’s fall program, includ- 21:00 Dreams of the Sublime and No- sings and plays the guitar. Borgarbókasaf- ing a new rock musical by Ólafur Haukur where in Contemporary Icelandic Art 22:00 nið, Tryggvagata 15. Símonarson and the operas Paliacci by Guided tours that shed a light on individual Leoncavallo and Cavalleria Rsticana by pieces in the exhibition and their relation 20:00 Dreams of the Sublime and No- Mascagni. The Icelandic Opera, Ingólf- to the sublime, past and present. Listasafn where in Contemporary Icelandic Art sstræti 7. Reykjavíkur – Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata 22.00 – 22.45 Rúni Júl’s Rock Band. Guided tours that shed a light on individual Rúnar Júlíusson is the king of Icelandic pieces in the exhibition and their relation 20:00 In Earth as it is in Heaven. Mozaik 21:00 – 22:00 Jazz in the Deep. The Rock n’ Roll. Reykjavík City Hall. to the sublime, past and present. Listasafn the Church of Whitsun offers you to visit duo “Skoffín og Skuggabaldur” performs Reykjavíkur – Kjarvalsstaðir by Flókagata on Culture Night. At 20:00 there will be a in the Depth, which is the basement of 22:30 Colourful Parade accompa- hallelujah gathering. We look forward to see restaurant Hornið Hafnargata 15. The duo nied by an Irish street theatre. Colourful, 20:00 – 22:00 Under the Parisian Skies you. Mozaik Hvítasunnukirkja – Skógarhlíð includes Birta Rós Sigurjónsdóttir singer bloated figures will lead the way and the – France Dance Singer Hlín Pétursdóttir 20. and Sigurjón Alexandersson guitarist The Dixie band “The Duck” will fill the void with and accordion player Yuri Fedorov play basement of Restaurant Hornið, Hafnar- music. The parade leaves Lækjargata and French dance music. Iðnó, Vonarstræti 3. 20.00 – 20.45 Hjálmar. The popular stræti 15. heads to Sæbraut where the fireworks Icelandic reagge-band Hjálmar from Reyk- display will start at 23:08. 20:00 Friends A new piece by Símon Bir- janesbær in concert. Reykjavík City Hall. 21.00-23.00 The annual Culture Night gisson, directed by Þorleifur Arnar Arnars- performance by The Björn Thorodds- son and starring Vignir Rafn Valþórsson, 20:00 -23:00 Live Celtic Folk Song en trio with singer Raggi Bjarna in Walter Geir Grímsson and Þórunn Arna Night at Highlander bar. The music group Eymundsson in Austurstræti. The trio con- Kristjánsdóttir. The National Theatre “The Highlanders” sustain Celtic pub at- sists of Björn Thoroddssen, Jón Rafnsson mosphere. Highlander bar, Lækjargötu 10. and Guðmundur Steingrímsson. 20:00 – 22:00 The Cherry Plaza. Ac- Eymdundsson, Austurstræti 18. cordion tunes, market stalls and chalk 20:00 – 21:00 The Accordion Quartet 23:00 artworks created in cooperation with performs in front of Stíl Laugavegur 58. 21:00 Trio on a Square A salvation trio passers-bt. The plaza mood will com- The quartet includes: Eyrún Ísfeld, Ólafur will amuse passers-by. Their program in- mence again at 20:00 and there will be Bríem, Jón Þór Jónsson, Guðný Kristín Er- cludes Icelandic pop songs as well foreign a mass sing-along to the sound of the lingsdóttir. Smárinn plays various species with Icelandic lyrics. They are known for 23:08 Magnificent Fireworks Display accordion at 21:00. Kirsuberjatréð, Ves- of music; polka, tango etc. Boutique Stíll, their unorthodox instruments so this will out in the sea sponsored by Orkuveita turgötu 4. Laugavegi 58. be quite the show. Fríkirkjan í Reykjavík við Reykjavíkur. The scouts’ rescue team Fríkirkjutorg. operate the fireworks beneath Sæbraut in 20:00 Creation – Theatrical Reading 20:00-24:00 Reykjavík Archive – Silent cooperation with the Coast Guard. On Culture night Jón Þór Sigurleifsson, a film offered by the inhabitants of Rocky Vil- 21:30 Cuisine, dance and joy at the young and promising artist, will perform lage. Behind the old Morgunblað Palace. Sea Bar The famous Kulturang Pinay Fili- 23:45 – 00:30 Midnight Seremony. The various acts accompanied by several ac- pino Style dance group performs peace- Priests of the Cathedral and the Priests of tors from 16 to 19 years of age. Jón will 20:00 Dog Missing: Is our Culture Being loving native dances at Sjávarbarinn in Keflavík join forces in this cozy late-night also be selling his works on the setting. Thrown to the Dogs? Recycled music in Grandi. The dance group includes eight mass. The Church Choir of Keflavík will Kaffi Hljómalind and Fógetagarðurinn Park. an inventive and funny manner. Þjóðmen- female Filipino descendents currently living perform. Reykjavík Cathedral. ningarhúsið, Hverfisgötu 15. in Iceland. Sjávarbarinn serves Icelandic