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NSW South Coast

This month’s Locavore, Josh Tyler of Tyler’s Pantry, guides us through the food highlights from Milton to Moruya on the bountiful NSW South Coast.

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1. & 2. Tyler’s Pantry; duck with mulberry and black pudding. 3. at Bannisters specialises in local seafood. 4. Chef Alex Delly and gardener Peter Becke at St Isidore. Previous page (clockwise from left): Pelicans on the ; Gundary Store; strawberry bavarois at Cupitt’s Winery; Mogo Pottery & Art Gallery; Locavore Josh Tyler; pool-side at Bannisters; Tuross Head’s Picked Octopus; and travel overseas with his wife, Anna. After living for a while in Anna’s hometown of , they returned to be close to Josh’s family in Malua Bay, “When my father passed away four It’s long been the florid North Coast’s laconic relative, years ago it was a life-changing moment for me. I grew up a no-nonsense larrikin of a place where surfers, fishermen playing with my cousins, and I wanted the same for our kids.” and families head for barefoot summers. But NSW’s South Josh first opened Tyler’s Kitchen there, later branching Coast is gaining traction as a destination offering more than out with Tyler’s Pantry (34 St, (02) 4474 5572, Mogo, spectacular beaches and walking trails, plush pastures, tylerspantry.com.au) in nearby Mogo (home to the renowned buckets of prawns and oysters Mogo Zoo). Since he closed his Malua straight off the leases. In the Bay venue to concentrate on Tyler’s Shoalhaven, the thriving centres “Newcomers and local Pantry, he’s been quietly garnering of Ulladulla and Milton, and its acclaim, gaining his firstSydney seaside sister, , are heroes are joining Morning Herald Good Food Guide home to class-act restaurants, chef’s hat this year. By day, it’s a casual Icafes and wineries, while, along forces to put this breakfast and lunch spot, although the Eurobodalla and fittingly the provenance of Josh’s ingredients, named Sapphire Coast, newcomers beautiful bountiful meticulous technique and daytime and local heroes are joining forces menu belie the term – think a pillowy to put this bountiful, beautiful region on the map.” croque monsieur, luxuriant slow-roasted region on the map. lamb rolls and textbook-perfect risottos. This month’s Locavore, chef and restaurateur Josh Tyler, On Friday and Saturday nights, Josh’s exquisite contemporary grew up in and spent part of his apprenticeship tasting menus up the ante, combining the best the region’s at Guesthouse. “The chef there had come from The fishermen, farmers and smallholders have to offer with Bathers’ Pavilion in Sydney, and they had a kitchen garden, foraged ingredients. “When I moved back, I got hold of a book so I was off to a good start.” A stint in Sydney saw Josh working about native Australian foods,” says Josh. “I had no idea that with Peter Doyle at Celsius, before he packed his bags to work the whole time I’d spent surfing here I’d been walking past all delicious. locavore.

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1. Chicken liver parfait, baby beetroot and homegrown celery with onion jam and dukkah from is a slick, contemporary all-day eatery, where co-owner St Isidore. 2. The cellar door at Cupitt’s Winery is housed in a and chef Matt Upson turns out generous breakfasts – think historic stone creamery that dates house-made granola, bubble and squeak, and smoked salmon back to 1851. 3. Beautiful Bengello with house-baked brioche. Lunch and dinner are of the Beach, south of Broulee. shared-plate genre, and run the gamut from taro chips with chipotle aioli through to red-braised pork belly with kimchi salad. “Anna I went there for a casual lunch with our daughter, these edible plants along the beach – sea lettuce, warrigal Chloe, and the food was very similar to what Matt does at greens, even native raspberries up on Merry Street – lots of spices and the dunes. Along the inlets there are Asian influences.” samphire and saltbush, and I’ve St Isidore (89 Croobyar Rd, discovered native passionfruit in the “I had no idea that Milton, (02) 4455 7261, stisidore. bush around Mogo, as well as tiny com.au) has fast become Milton’s native figs along the Clyde River.” the whole time I’d dining benchmark. Chef Alex Delly and his partner, Jo Thomas, who Where to eat been surfing I’d been runs front of house, have created Mollymook’s place on the dining map a paradise of flourishing kitchen was first consolidated by Rick Stein’s walking past edible gardens and orchards on the edge arrival at Bannisters (191 Mitchell Pde, of town. They grow virtually all their Mollymook, (02) 4455 3044, bannisters. plants on the beach.” own produce, and Alex’s menus com.au), and its top-notch seafood and reflect his ‘less is more, but with waterfront setting still draw crowds. Down the hill a twist’ approach to cooking. “It’s an amazing spot to have is Tallwood (Shop 2/85 Tallwood Ave, Mollymook, lunch. The service and the food are great – really fresh.” (02) 4455 5192, tallwoodeat.com.au), which was opened Just outside Milton you’ll find Cupitt’s Winery in January 2013 by the same people who run Kioloa’s (58 Washburton Rd, Ulladulla, (02) 4455 7888), cupittwines.com. well-regarded Merry Street Restaurant & Bar. Tallwood au). Settle in for lunch, with a side order of sensational views

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Fish & Chips At Innes Boatshed (1 Clyde St, Batemans Bay, (02) 4472 4052), snack on prawns and oysters, then pick your fish to be fried and settle in on the overwater deck. 2 Pickled Octopus (93D Trafalgar Rd, Tuross Head, (02) 4473 6084) has a wide-ranging menu, with plenty of classics. Takeaway down below, or dine in and

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1. & 2. One-hatted restaurant The River Moruya and chef-owner (Riverside Dr, Narooma, Peter Compton. 3. Pick up organic sourdough baguettes from Flour (02) 4476 2723) is a bright Water Salt in Milton. 4. The northern headland at Mollymook Beach. (red) and breezy restored boatshed on Wagonga Inlet. 4 Order takeaway at one of the prettiest little harbours in at BlueWave Seafood (Fisherman’s Wharf, 73-79 Lamont St, Bermagui, (02) 6493 5725).

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Eiffert is packing them in for dinner and his evolving list of beers and wines. “It only seats 20 people, with a menu of mostly shared plates, but the atmosphere’s great. Gary’s style is eclectic, with a bit of classic French, then something heavily over the vines and cattle-dotted valley. A wood-fired oven turns Asian, and maybe a Moroccan dish. But it all seems to work.” out (very!) local beef, chicken and more, while the cellar door For a sunset sangria and a tapas plate or two, follow the has a nice line in tasting plates to match with a zesty verdelho. pelicans to Barkala Kitchen & Bar (3 Orient St, Batemans It’s a little bit Byron Bay, but Pilgrims Wholefoods Bay, (02) 4472 1888, barkala.wix.com/barkala). Its promenade (Shop 8, The Settlement, Princes setting takes in the sweep of the Clyde River Hwy, Milton, (02) 4455 3421) is a mouth. “The views are fantastic and the small South Coast institution, according “Once a month, wine list is made up of French, Spanish and to Josh. “I tasted my first Single Australian wines with a few South Americans Origin Roasters coffee there, and The River thrown in. The cocktails are good, too.” I like the vegetarian-style food, the The Muffin Shop (31 Pacific St, , salads and the surfie atmosphere.” Moruya does (02) 4471 8599, themuffinshop.com.au) is a Go for mega vegie burgers, good beacon for holidaymakers and locals. “The juices and Mexican dinner options. produce dinners.” coffee’s great. It’s one of those places where A few doors down, Flour Water you go for one cup and end up stuck there. Salt (87 Princes Hwy, Milton, It’s a real hub. My brother and I would go for (02) 4454 2504, flourwatersalt.com.au) is the latest addition a surf at the Tomaga River mouth and come here afterwards.” to Joost and Kirsty Hilkemeijer’s Berry Woodfired Sourdough Out the back, a tranquil little gallery, The Artery, sells Bakery group. It’s a smart, bright one-stop shop for excellent artworks, jewellery and jars of fragrant local honey. sourdough, pies, sandwiches and cakes to eat in or take away. Down the coast, in a pared-back timber setting on the banks In Batemans Bay at Little Restaurant & Bar (Shop 3, 1A of the , chef-owner Peter Compton has forged Orient St, Batemans Bay, (02) 4472 4664), chef-owner Gary a reputation (and won a chef’s hat) for his produce-driven, locavore.

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1. Owner Jane Allen of The Muffin Shop at Mossy Point. 2. Fishing picnickers and self-caterers, this is a trove of housemade boats at Bermagui harbour. 3. Mister Jones espresso bar and art studio pies, noodle boxes and takeaway dinners for two. in Bermagui. 4. John and Willy at In Bodalla, head to Blue Earth Cafe (160 Princes Hwy, Moruya serve freshly made lunches Bodalla, (02) 4473 5211) for simple, predominantly and fancy takeaway food. home-grown fare. “The owners have put a lot of effort into the kitchen garden, plus it has a great outlook too.” Further south at Bermagui, Josh recommends Mister Jones contemporary cooking at The River Moruya (16B Church (4 Bunga St, Bermagui, 0403 755 672, misterjones.com.au) for St, Moruya, (02) 4474 5505, therivermoruya.com.au). Lunch a morning heart-starter, where artist and barista Matt Jones and dinner menus feature house-cured fish or meats, freshly brews up until midday, then shuts up shop, transforming it made pasta, local seafood and organic into his studio. “This is a really cool little vegetables. “Pete’s a friend of mine and coffee shop. The menu only has a couple he’s been running it on his own for about “Mister Jones is of items – muesli or toast. It’s a hole in three years. Once a month he does Friday the wall, but the coffee’s really good produce dinners, and the food’s always a tiny hole in the and the attention to detail is great.” great – classic French technique with a few High above the ocean, on the dramatic, modern ingredients thrown in the mix.” wall, but the coffee windswept outpost of Tathra Wharf, For more casual daytime bites, Josh The Wharf Locavore (Wharf Rd, Tathra, heads to Gundary Store (13 Campbell St, is really good.” 0427 941 747) is an atmospheric spot for Moruya, (02) 4474 3275), which serves coffee or lunch. Choose from a quality excellent sandwiches, baked goods and selection of home-style cakes, pies and coffee. “My wife, Anna, works at the hospital in Moruya, sandwiches, and load up with goodies to take home. so we often meet here.” Further up the road, John and Willy Final salute goes to the Zanzibar Cafe (Cnr Main and (Emmott House, 87 Campbell St, Moruya, (02) 4474 4113, Market sts, , (02) 6495 3636, zanzibarmerimbula. johnandwilly.com.au) is a secret gem camouflaged by a pretty com.au) for its outstanding contribution to the Sapphire garden. “It’s unassuming – no one knows it’s here apart from Coast’s food scene. Chef-owner Huw Jones (ex-Tetsuya), locals. It has a nice deli counter and serves good salads.” For his brother, pastry chef Angus Jones (ex-Quay), and Huw’s

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1. & 3. Woodburn Deli at Mollymook and owners Sonia Sotriffer and Dot Foots. 2. & 4. Beautiful ceramics at Mogo Pottery & Art Gallery, which is housed in a former church in the historic town of Mogo. 5. Kangaroos at Pebbly Beach.

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out there last year for our Christmas party. We spent a few hours picking our own fruit by the river. And when you’re done, they’ll even churn them into ice cream.” For Josh, The Pearly Oyster Bar (6 North St, Batemans Bay, (02) 4472 4233) “is the most consistent place around this area partner and co-owner, Renee Loftus, have turned a local to pick up quality oysters”. He’s also started working with corner eatery into a one-hatted dining destination. Warm, another grower on the Clyde River, Ewan McAsh, of the savvy service and quality, contemporary Ulladulla Oyster Bar (Shop 5, The Plaza, cooking come wrapped up in a plush, 107 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla, 0419 219 275, curved wood-panelled dining room. “Pick your own ulladullaoysterbar.com.au). Native Angasis are now available here and at Where to shop berries to take Tyler’s Pantry (see page 168), and Pacific Dot and Sonia, co-owners of Woodburn oysters are on the way for summer. Buy Deli (Shop 3, 80 Tallwood Ave, home at Clyde some to go, or settle in for a glass of crisp Mollymook, (02) 4454 2715) are doing riesling with a dozen of Ewan’s finest, some serious damage to waistlines River Berry Farm.” a pint of prawns or homemade tapas. hereabouts. Their tiny shop is a culinary In Mogo, an historic Gold Rush town, Tardis, with an array of top-notch products – T2 Teas, visitors now fossick through a jumble of gifts, homewares, Simon Johnson sauces, Pepe Saya cultured butter antiques and art galleries. In a former church perched above – as well as cracking house-made baked goods, the main street is Peter and Vanessa Williams’ Mogo Pottery seasonal-fruit ice creams and satisfying meals-to-go. & Art Gallery (22-24 Sydney St, Mogo, (02) 4474 4982, Clyde River Berry Farm near Termeil (2000A The River Rd, mogopottery.com). “Probably two-thirds of the plates and Mogood, (02) 4478 1057, clyderiverberryfarm.com.au) grows bowls we use in the restaurant were made by Peter. I sat everything from blueberries, raspberries and blackberries, to with him one day as he made plates and little pouring loganberries, marionberries and tayberries. “I took my staff jugs, and drew him sketches of what I was after.”

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1 Isidore, The River Moruya and Zanzibar Cafe. Roger Harris, 1. ‘Glamping’ at The Escape at Shallow Crossing. 2. Rick Stein in the of Brindabella Hills in the Canberra District, is making some kitchen at his beachhouse, Rick’s Place. 3. The Bower at Broulee is a secluded bushland hideaway for couples. 4. The pool at Bannisters. head-turning verdelho, tempranillo and savarino here, which you can buy online. “Gary Potts, the owner, regularly drives from Bermagui up to Sydney and always drops in for a coffee and chat. He reckons the 2013 savarino is one of the best he’s had.” Moruya Farmers’ Market (Riverside Park, Moruya, moruyafarmersmarket.org.au) is run by community-based Where to stay SAGE (Sustainable Agriculture and Gardening Eurobodalla) At Mollymook, Bannisters (bannisters.com.au) has rooms every Tuesday from 3pm until sunset. Among a growing from $250 per double, or make like Mr and Mrs Stein and number of sellers, you’ll find acclaimed jersey milk and gather a group to splash out on Rick’s Place (from $1200 cheeses from Central Tilba’s South Coast Cheese for three nights), a two-storey clifftop hideaway that sleeps (southcoastcheese.com.au), Congo Sourdough organic up to 10 people and has brilliant views, a heated jacuzzi, ocean breads and vegetarian pies (congosourdough.vpweb.com.au), breezes and, of course, a well-kitted-out kitchen, plus the and local vegies from Queen St Growers, run by Tim Saffery restaurant, bar and spa at Bannisters is an easy stroll away. and Tobie Patrick, both former co-owners of The River Moruya The Escape at Shallow Crossing on the Clyde River with Peter Compton, and Fraser Bailey and Kirsti Wilkinson’s (the-escape.com.au, from $195 per person per night, including Old Mill Road BioFarm (oldmillroad.com.au). “Fraser also all meals) offers luxe camping and good food. “Anna and sells amazing biodynamic eggs – all the eggs we use at the I stayed there last summer and it was amazing. You feel restaurant come from him.” like you’re in the middle of nowhere, but the berry farm Rustic Pantry Wholefoods (1/61 Vulcan St, Moruya, is only 15 minutes away and the beach about half an hour’s (02) 4474 2538, therusticpantry.com.au) is the place to stock drive. There are beautiful bushwalks, too.” up on everything from sustainable fish products to loaves For a romantic break for two, The Bower at Broulee of bread and condiments. “They sell good organic seeds, (thebower.com.au, from $400 per night) offers self-contained nuts and grains, as well as oils and olives.” bushland hideaways, with all the mod-cons. “Mark and You’ll find Rusty Fig Wines (Main Rd, Cobargo, 0418 720 908, Sue Berry’s property is beautiful, set among the trees. It’s rustyfigwines.com.au) on the wine list at Tyler’s Pantry, St secluded, but you’re only five minutes’ drive to the beach.” d.

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