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T TURU Õ SAKALA MADARA ROOPA N USA 4,2 IS MARDI LUISE M ROU ALLIKA TARTU MNT VILLARDI Places of Interest 8 Kiek in de Kök & Bastion TunnelsÄ 15 Viru Gates 22LÄTTECathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin 6,3,2 G I (Dome Church) KENTMANNI MAJAKA MAJAKA 1 Town Hall Square & Town Hall 9 Alexander Nevsky CathedralLVA 16 Great Guild Hall – KENTMANNIPÕIK 23 Viewing Platforms K.A.HERMANNI PALLASTI 4 2 Town Hall Pharmacy 10 Danish King’s Garden 17 House of the Brotherhood of Black Heads LASTEKODU LAAGNA TEE LÕKKE VEETORNI TATARI 24 Dominican Monastery Museum K.TÜRNPU ENDLA JAKOBI 6,3,2 3 St. Catherine’s Passage 11 KGB Headquarters 18 St. Olav's Guild Hall IMANTA P.SÜDA GILDI TUVI 25 Nunna, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers

6,3,2 LIIVAMÄE 4 St. Olav's Church DEU12 Museum of Occupations 19 Horse Mill4,3 LUBJA 4,2 A 26 Maiden’s Tower H G O KIVIMURRU 9,4 N AHJU ESP 5 St. Nicholas’ Church I 13 City Museum 20 Kanut Guild Hall S N NZL P 27 I U SINIKA Freedom Square D KELDRIMÄE K A - 14 21 & Tall Hermann’s Tower 6 Holy Spirit Church FRA Fat Margaret’s Tower & L M VÄIKE-LIIVAMÄE I O Great Coastal Gate 28 Solaris Centre JAKOBI 6. O 7 Masters’SUUR-AMEERIKA Courtyard T Autobussijaam 6. VILLARDI V E UUS-TATARI Central Bus 4,2 LASNAMÄE ENDLA E PALLASTI LIIVALAIA R RAVI ODRA Station E TATARI KATUSEPAPI PÄRNU MNT PÄRNU Tiigiveski park KOMEEDI N LASTEKODU N KOIDU

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NÕMME TEE DISCOVER TALLINN 1 Contents Welcome to Tallinn 2

Exploring Tallinn 4

City of Culture 20

Dining Out 28

A Night on the Town 32

Relaxing & Recharging 36

Shopping 44

Practical Information 49 2 WELCOME TO TALLINN

A Tale of Two Tallinns Charmingly Medieval or amazingly modern? Welcome to Figuring out which describes Tallinn better would be a tough job. On one hand, the city’s pride and joy is its historic Old Town, an enchant- ing neighbourhood of centuries-old streets, houses, towers and squares Tallinn! that looks like it was torn right from the pages of a storybook. On the other hand, threaded through that same Old Town and its environs are the cutting-edge restaurants, cafés and clubs that give Tallinn its energy and buzz. Visitors are often amazed by the newness of the place: the gleaming shops, the stylish interiors, the plush hotels. There are also the high-tech solutions that go hand- in-hand with Tallinn life, like free, wireless Internet available practi- cally everywhere and the common practice of paying for parking by mobile phone. This is, after all, the country that invented Skype. Call it old, new, or some kind of hybrid, Tallinn is an ideal city break destination. For one, it’s a highly compact city, most of which can easily be explored on foot without the need for taxis or buses. Most of the best opportunities for sightsee- ing, cultural events, dining, shop- ping, and nightlife are conveniently massed in city centre. And there’s plenty to do here. Anyone coming here for a real break should know that Tallinn is also a great place to do very little: take a quiet stroll through a park, relax in a health spa or – if the weather cooperates – sit on a beach. Whatever your agenda, whichever of the Tallinns you need – the romantic, Medieval Tallinn or the trendy, high-tech one – the doors are open. Just take your pick and head on in! TOOMASVOLMER WELCOME TO TALLINN 3 Welcome to Tallinn! KRISTJAN MÄNDMAA ANDREAS MEICHSNER ANDREAS MEICHSNER TOOMASVOLMER MARI KADANIK 4 EXPLORING TALLINN Exploring Tallinn For more than eight centuries Tallinn has been attracting adventurous hearts and curious souls. Its position as a vital trade port on the route between East and West has always given it an inter- national flavor, as well as made it a tempting prize for ambitious empires – Danish, Livonian, German, Swedish and Russian rule have all left their mark on the city’s landscape and culture. That means today’s visitors,toting cameras rather than heavy amour, will have plenty to see. EXPLORING TALLINN 5

The Story of Tallinn

8,000–3,000 BC: Finno-Ugric ancestors of the Estonians migrate to Baltic coast. 11th–12th Century AD: Estonian clans Exploring Tallinn use what’s now Tallinn area as market- place and harbour; maintain wooden fortress on Toompea hill. 1154: Tallinn first mentioned in historic records by Arab cartographer Al-Idrisi. 1219: Danish forces capture Tallinn. 1227–1238: German merchant families from Gotland settle at the base of Toompea, sewing the seeds of Tallinn as a Germanic trade town. 13th–15th Centuries: City sees rapid growth as major trading point between East and West. In 1248, Tallinn adopts Lübeck Law, giving it self-governing status. In 1284 it joins the Hanseatic League. 1346: Danes sell their Estonian holdings to the Livonian Order. 1558–1583: During the Livonian War, Tallinn attacked and besieged by the forces of Ivan the Terrible. Estonia ends up under Swedish rule. 17th Century: The city’s fortunes wane as it looses prominence as a trade centre. 1710: Great Northern War (1700 – 21) leaves Estonia under Russian Empire. Tsar Peter the Great sets up summer estate in . 1860–1880: National Awakening gives Estonians a newfound sense of cultural identity. 1918: With World War I raging, Estonia declares independence on February 24. 1920s–30s: Independent Estonia establishes itself on world stage. 1940–1944: Red Army forces occupy and annex Estonia into U.S.S.R. Mass arrests and deportations follow. Nazi invasion in 1941 brings its own occupation and ho- locaust. U.S.S.R. reinvades in 1944, tens of thousands flee to Sweden by ship. 1945–1991: Soviet occupation, Estonia is cut off from the West. 1987–88: The “Singing Revolution” – Large-scale protests against rule in the form of traditional mass singing events. 1991: Estonia declares independence on August 20. The country immediately turns westward. Mid-1990s – present: Economic trans- formation accompanied by widespread development of IT infrastructure. In 2004, Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. MARTTANIEL 6 EXPLORING TALLINN

4 2 Medieval Ol d Town 1 Town Hall Square & Town Hall Raekoja plats 1 www.tallinn.ee/raekoda

3 Picturesque Town Hall 6 Square has been the 1 undisputed hub of Old Town for the last eight centuries. Surrounded 5 by elaborate merchant houses and, in summer, packed with café tables, it’s a natural magnet for tourists. Historically it served as Tallinn’s Old Town a market and meeting place, and was the site Twisting cobblestone lanes and iron of at least one execution street lamps. Gothic spires and medi- (resulting from a dispute eval markets. Cappuccino and Wi-Fi. over a bad omelette). Find the round stone marked This is the city’s famous Old Town. with a compass rose in the If you’re looking for that mix of middle of the square. From historic ambience and cutting-edge this spot, with a little stretching and bending, culture that defines Tallinn, you’ll you can see the tops of all find it here. Built up from the 13th five of Old Town’s spires. to 16th centuries, when Tallinn was Dominating the square’s a thriving member of the Hanseatic east side is the Town Hall, built in 1402-1404 as trade league, this enclosed neighbour- the headquarters for the hood of colourful, gabled houses, ruling burgermeisters. half-hidden courtyards and grandiose Today it’s Northern TOOMASVOLMER Europe’s only intact – and churches is, quite rightly, the city’s best-preserved – Gothic biggest tourist draw. And the fact town hall. Look closely at , the town’s that it’s all neatly packaged within the top of the 64-metre spire to see a weather favourite guard a mostly-intact city wall and dotted Back in the days of yore, an archery vane in the shape of Old contest was held each spring to see with guard towers gives it an extra Thomas, the mustachioed who could shoot a wooden parrot off dose of fairytale charm. Tallinn mascot. the top of a high pole. It was a serious annual tradition, reserved exclusively for the men of noble families. One year, so the legend goes, none of the contestants 2 Town Wall & Towers was able to hit the target. A plucky boy The power politics of the called Thomas was in the crowd. He was Middle Ages being what from a poor family, but had learned archery they were, Tallinn was from a young age. Urged on by his friends, constantly under threat of he gave it a shot, hit the parrot, and attack by one ambitious immediately got into trouble. But instead neighbour or another. of having his ears boxed as his mother The solution, starting in expected, he was made an apprentice the 13th century, was to guard. Thomas eventually became an maintain a system of high, expert soldier, performing many heroic thick walls, guard towers deeds during the Livonian War and serving and gates. Today 1.9 km of with distinction to a rife old age. Years the wall and roughly half later locals noticed that Town Hall’s of the original 46 towers weather vane, which is shaped like a still loom over Old Town, soldier with a bushy moustache, looked evoking images of heroic a lot like their hero guard and started knights and damsels in calling it Old Thomas in his honour. distress. To learn more, Nowadays Old Thomas, as legend

see page 12. AINAVIK and weather vane, is a much- loved symbol of Tallinn. EXPLORING TALLINN 7 Medieval Ol d Town 3 Town Hall Pharmacy Raekoja plats 11 Open since as far back as 1422, this curious little shop on the corner of Town Hall Square is in fact the oldest continuously running pharmacy in Europe. Medieval remedies like burnt bees and powdered unicorn horn have been replaced by their 21st-century counterparts, but one room in the back displays a collection of medicinal bric-a-

TOOMAS VOLMER brac from bygone days.

4 St. Olav’s Church Lai 50 • www.oleviste.ee Once upon a time, from 1549 to 1625 to be precise, this 13th-century Gothic church was the tallest building in the world. In Medieval days its 159-metre spire would have made it a truly awe- inspiring sight. Sadly it also made an excellent lightning rod, and the resulting fires burned the church to the ground in 1625 and in 1820. At 124 meters, the current spire still towers over Old Town, and in spring and summer daring visitors can climb up for an amazing view. INGA JAANSON

5 St. Nicholas’ Church Niguliste 3 • www.ekm.ee Saints, dancing skeletons and silver – not to mention the occasional organ concert – are the main attractions at this imposing, 13th-century church. Destroyed in a World War II bombing raid, it was painstakingly reconstructed in the 1980s. Nowadays St. Nicholas’ acts as a museum specialising in works of religious art, most famously Bernt Notke’s beautiful but spooky painting Danse Macabre (Dance with Death). STANISLAV STEPASHKO

6 St. Catherine’s Passage & Masters’ Courtyard Easily the most photogenic of Old Town’s lanes, St. Catherine’s runs between Vene and Müürivahe streets, along the back of what ANNIKA PALVARI was St. Catherine’s Church. The street is home to the St. Catherine’s guild, a collection of craft shops where artists create and sell hats, quilts, ceramics, hand-painted silk and other wares. Not far from here is the beautifully restored Masters’ Courtyard where handicrafts,

jewellery and chocolate confections are sold. ANDREAS MEICHSNER 8 EXPLORING TALLINN

Tallinn's Two Legs Old Town is divided into two distinct parts: Lower Town and Toompea hill. So much to see... Connecting these areas are two pictur- esque streets known as Tallinn's two 'legs', i.e. Pikk jalg (Long Leg Street) or Lühike jalg (Short Leg Street). Most visi- tors prefer to climb up to Toompea on one of these 'legs' and return to Lower Town on the other. In days of old, the long, straight Pikk jalg was the passageway for carriage traffic heading to and from Toompea. It ANNIKA PALVARI KAIDO HAAGEN starts at the four-storey Long Leg Gate 8 Toompea Castle & of the elite, German nobility. Inside Tower, which dates to 1380, and ends at Tower you’ll find their coats of arms, and the striking, onion-shaped domes of the tombs. Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. One of the Lossi plats 1 walls that flanks Pikk jalg has become Toompea Castle has been seat of power a favourite spot for local artists selling in Estonia since the German Knights of their sketches and paintings. the Sword built the first stone fortress here in 1227-29. Even these days it’s home The much narrower, winding Lühike jalg to the nation’s Parliament. Most visitors’ used to be the main way to get to and first view is the pink, Baroque palace dat- from Toompea by foot. This curious, little ing to the time of Catherine the Great. Go lane, most of which is taken up by a set around back, down the hill to the left, for of stairs, is home to a number of small a more Medieval view. From below, the art shops, as well as a museum and a castle takes on a much more fortress-like ANDRESTREIAL café. At the top of the street stands the appearance. Short Leg Gate Tower, which was built 10 Danish King’s Garden in 1456 and is reputed to be one of the Lühike jalg 9A most haunted buildings in Old Town. The tower was extensively rebuilt in the On one slope of Toompea hill, 1980s, but the huge, 17th-century wood- between the city wall and Lower en door you'll pass here is original. Town, you’ll find an open, garden- like area and a terraced set of steps that lead down to a courtyard on Rüütli street. This relaxing spot was supposedly where King Valdemar II of Denmark and his troops camped ANDREAS MEICHSNER before conquering Toompea in 1219. Standing at the southwest corner of Toompea Castle is the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) Tower, a vital symbol of Legend of Dannebrog Estonian nationhood. Originally built in A well-known legend, both in Estonia and 1371, it reached its current, 46m height Denmark, holds that the Danish flag, the Dannebrog, originated on this very spot, ANUVAHTRA after reconstruction in 1500. Because it's the castle's tallest tower, there has in what’s now called the Danish King’s 7 Viewing platforms always been an accepted wisdom that Garden. According to the story, Valdemar’s In the old days the nobles living on whichever power flies its flag here rules forces were losing their battle with the Toompea hill would look down – both Estonia. In 1989, the Estonian blue, black Estonians when suddenly the skies opened literally and figuratively – on the mer- and white replaced the Soviet flag on and a red flag with a white cross floated chants and artisans living in the town Pikk Hermann for the first time, a key down. Taking this as a holy sign, the below. Now so can you. Two viewing symbolic victory for the independence Danes were spurred on to victory. spots in particular, the Kohtu Street and movement. Nowadays the Estonian flag Patkuli view platforms, give sweeping is raised here each morning to the tune of panoramas of Old Town's rooftops, tow- the national anthem. ers and beyond. From the Kohtu Street platform there's an unforgettable view 9 of the city's Medieval neighbourhood Cathedral of St Mary the Virgin against the backdrop of its new finan- Toom - Kooli 6 www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom cial district. The Patkuli platform, on the other hand, offers the best vantage The more common name for this point to see Tallinn's fairytale city wall gleaming, white church on Toompea is and towers, as well as St. Olav's Church “Toomkirik” (Dome Church) and it’s now and the harbour. From Patkuli a winding the main Lutheran church in Estonia. series of steps leads down the cliff face to Established sometime before 1233 (and Nunne street, below. rebuilt several times), it was the church EXPLORING TALLINN 9 So much to see... colourful, very Russian- looking, onion-domed church that lords over the city from 12 atop Toompea hill. Most 15 7 14 Estonians aren’t thrilled 13 about the church due to its placement and early political 7 7 significance: it was established 9 here in 1900 as a symbol of 7 ANDREAS MEICHSNER Tsarist power over the Estonian people, who at the time were 11 10 8 11 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral starting to make noises about Lossi plats 10 • www.hot.ee/nsobor independence. Now the One piece of Old Town architecture cathedral is the main place of that seems out of place here among worship for Estonia’s Russian its Medieval neighbours is the Orthodox faithful.

T h e P i kk S t r e e t G u i lds

From the 14th century onwards, much of life in Tallinn was controll- ed by powerful merchant and craft guilds, associations that not only regulated trade in certain spheres, but also had a role in local politics and social life. Today the guild houses along Pikk street stand as testaments to the prowess of these organisations, and also represent some of the most eclectic architecture in Old Town.

12 House of the Brotherhood of Black Heads Pikk 26 • www.mustpeademaja.ee The Brotherhood of Black Heads gets its odd name from the fact that its patron saint, Mauritius, was a dark-skinned Moor. This guild of unmarried German merchants was responsible for organising the town’s defenses as well as its spring festivals. The beautiful Renaissance facade dates to 1597, and the much- Fragment of the painted epitaph, dedicated to photographed red, green and the memory of the Brotherhood of the Black Heads gold door dates to 1640. killed in the Livonian War. Lambert Glandorf, 1561. KAIDO HAAGEN power and wealth. Though the building is in the guild hall that her 13 Great Guild Hall Members, who much older, its facade husband was watching Pikk 17 • www.eam.ee had to be married German dates to 1863-64 and them. It’s no surprise that this merchants, controlled is done in an English, hulking, gabled hall the Town Council. The Tudor style, with statues 15 St. Olav's Guild Hall with its gigantic porch building, which dates representing St. Kanut and Pikk 24 and lion’s head door to 1410, now houses the Martin Luther. The hall St. Olav’s Guild united knockers belonged to Estonian History Museum. is now a modern dance those practising what the Great Guild. It was The museum is currently theatre. Directly across were considered the lower- at the top rung of the undergoing renovation works the street, high atop the class trades – butchers, guild ladder in terms of and will re-open to the public Baroque facade, you’ll see tanners, gravediggers – in May 2011. the odd figure of a man who were by and large wearing old-fashioned Estonian. They used this 14 Kanut Guild Hall spectacles. Legend insists hall from the 14th century, Pikk 20 • www.saal.ee that the “Peeping Man” but in 1919 it was bought The Kanut Guild was made was put there by a jealous by, and merged with, the up of skilled craftsmen wife – a warning to the Black Heads’ house next

ANNIKA PALVARI from various trades. ladies practising dance door. 10 EXPLORING TALLINN

19

16 17 TAVI TAVI GREPP

16 Holy Spirit Church Pühavaimu 2 www.eelk.ee/tallinna.puhavaimu Just off Town Hall Square stands ANUVAHTRA a radiant, white church with an 17 octagonal tower. This is the 14th- Dominican Monastery century Holy Spirit Church, a Vene 16 • www.kloostri.ee 18 spectacular structure both inside You won’t be blamed for imagining and out. The elaborate painted clock you can hear monks chanting as you on its facade is Tallinn’s oldest public wander through the corridors of St. timepiece, but don’t miss the carved Catherine’s Monastery. Established wood interior and 15th-century in 1246, this is Tallinn’s oldest intact altar painted by Bernt Notke. building. Its beautiful courtyard can be accessed through the yard of the adjacent Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church. To see the inner rooms, visit the Claustrum on Müürivahe street.

Old Town Cafés The buzzing café scene is an integral part of Old Town. There are plenty of places you can soak in Tallinn’s Medieval atmosphere and get a shot of caffeine at the same time. Some examples are Chocolaterie in the Masters’ Courtyard (Vene 6), Kehrwieder on Town Hall Square, and Bogapott (Pikk jalg 9). MARTTANIEL INGA JAANSON

Marzipan or Mart’s Bread Historians might tell you that marzipan, that sweet confection made from almonds and sugar, comes from Persia or Italy, but local legend insists the delicacy was invented right here at Tallinn’s Town Hall Pharmacy. Long ago, so the story goes, a town alderman fell ill and summoned the apothecary to prescribe a cure. The expert apothecary knew an elaborate formula he was certain would work, but the alderman insisted that the apothecary test the medicine on himself. As fate would have it, the apothecary caught a nasty cold, so the preparation (and guinea pig) duty fell to his young apprentice, Mart. Being a clever lad, Mart replaced each bitter ingredient with a sweet one. Not only did the tasty remedy work, but the alderman loved it so much that he ordered it in large quantities and made it famous throughout Tallinn and

ANNIKA PALVARI beyond. The sweet bread-like confection became known as Mardileib, or Mart’s bread. EXPLORING TALLINN 11

H I DD E N T U NN E LS

Most of the bastions in the Tallinn defence system had tunnels built into them.

Under the City Like any respectable Medieval town, Tallinn has its share of underground passageways, particularly the defensive tunnel INGA JAANSON systems built in the 1600s 18 St. John’s Almshouse during the time of Swedish rule. Tartu mnt Back then attack was a constant www.linnamuuseum.ee worry, so planners constructed Medieval life wasn’t strictly confined high bastion walls around the to Old Town. One example is the St. outside of the fortified city. John the Baptist’s Almshouse, located They also installed tunnels a half-kilometre outside the city under the base of the walls so walls. The charitable institution was they could safely move soldiers active in various incarnations from and ammunition to where they 1237 right up to the 1960s. In 2004 a were needed, not to mention KRISTJAN MÄNDMAA museum-pavilion opened to display spy on the enemy. the almshouse’s excavated cellars and Linda Hill at the edge of Toompea, Some tunnels were forgotten. cemetery, as well as the history of the which are open for tours. These tun- As late as 2003, workers digging surrounding neighbourhood. nels have a fascinating history: They a foundation near the Occupation were built in the 1670s, but hardly Museum found a pentagonal used until the 20th century when system of limestone-lined tunnels they renovated into bomb shelters dating to the end of the 17th century. in time for World War II. During the Other tunnels have always been Soviet period they were further well known, in particular the ones modernized to add electricity, run- that run underneath Harju Hill and ning water, ventilation and phones. On the tunnel tour, visitors can see some of the old equipment leftover from that era, as well as parts of the ARHIIV tunnel that still retain their more 19 Horse Mill Medieval look. The tour includes Lai 47 a slow-moving train ride, where The funny, round building at the end of guests are shown the various stages Lai street served a vital function from of the tunnels' past, and even a few the 14th to the 18th centuries – it was decades into their possible future. the town’s horse-driven flour mill. Now This tour starts from the museum Kiek it operates as a museum, displaying in de Kök and it is recommended that

examples of elaborate stonemasonry KRISTJAN MÄNDMAA you book well in advance. salvaged from bygone days. 12 EXPLORING TALLINN

Walls and tow e r s

A large part of what gives Old Town its character is the system of walls and towers that surrounds it. Work on the town’s defenses first began in 1265, but the current outline of the wall dates to the 14th century. By its heyday in the 16th century, the wall was 2.4km long, 14-16m high, up to 3m thick, and included 46 towers. All these towers had names, REIN ZOBEL some descriptive, some showing a weird kind of Medieval humour. These days 1.9 km of the wall still stands, as do 20 defensive towers and portions of two of the six outer gates. The best places to see the wall are the Patkuli view platform on Toompea and Tallinn's Medieval city wall at its the Tornide väljak (Tower mightiest around 1530. From then on, Square), a park area near due to development of firearms, the wall the train station. Many lost its importance and began to slowly decay. towers are also open to the public. Portions of the wall still visible today are marked yellow.

strengthened, giving dates to the 14th century. it walls up to 4m thick. Naming it “Maiden’s” Ivan the Terrible’s forces or “Virgin’s” tower is managed to blow a huge another example of that hole through the top wacky, Medieval irony: storey, but the tower held. it used to house a prison Appropriately, it now for prostitutes. Locals houses a museum on insist it’s haunted. the town’s defenses. 24 Viru Gates 22 Nunna, Sauna & The two small, round Kuldjala Towers towers at the bottom Gümnaasiumi 3 of Viru street are called The only section of the the Viru Gates, but wall that’s open to the they’re actually only the public is here on Suur- foregates of what was Kloostri street, and it’s a much more complex administered by the gate system. It included adjacent Gustav Adolf high a large, square tower school. From the entrance that stood father back in the Nunna Tower you along the street, close can walk along the wall to to where the city wall the Sauna Tower and the can be seen. Most of Kuldjala Tower. Views the gate was pulled TOOMASVOLMER from here are amazing. down in the 1880s to 20 Fat Margaret’s Tower/ Margaret’s has become make room for traffic, 23 Maiden’s Tower Great Coastal Gate home to the Estonian but the remaining Lühike jalg 9A two towers, covered Pikk 70 • www.meremuuseum.ee Maritime Museum. This square tower next to in vines, have become Who was Margaret and 21 Kiek in de Kök the Danish King’s Garden a symbol of the town. how fat was she? Actually “Fat Margaret” is thought Komandandi tee 2 www.linnamuuseum.ee to refer to one of the cannons once housed in The name of this 38m this sturdy defense tower. tower means “peep into The structure was built the kitchen,” since it from 1511 to 1530 to protect was so high that guards Tallinn from attacks by joked they could see right sea, but it was also part down the chimneys of of the older Great Coastal the houses below. It was Gate, now the town’s last built in the 1470s, but

intact outer gate. Fat quickly expanded and ANDREAS MEICHSNER EXPLORING TALLINN 13

27 Ghost Stories of Old Town 20 Spooks, ghosts, haunts... whatever 28 you call them, if the stories are to be believed, Tallinn is positively infested with things that go bump in the night. Old Town even has a Ghost street (Vaimu), which residents 22 centuries ago thought was haunted. 25 More recent tales – coming from as 26 late as the 1990s – tell of spectral nuns in the Gustav Adolph high school and a monk-like figure who

la 29 could be seen drinking wine in the ü

aik 24 Maiden’s Tower. The nearby Short R rik Leg Gate Tower probably takes the E where legend insists that the Devil prize for the most reported incidents: 23 through the years there have been once held a wedding party. In any case, 21 countless sightings of a pair of for centuries the location has been monks, a woman in old-fashioned connected with unexplained, late-night dress, and even a spectral dog. party noises and in the last few years, Old Town’s most famous haunted mysterious, thundering footsteps on house stands at Rataskaevu 16, its wooden staircase. History Museums in Old Town the end of the 1700s. It’s located in about Tallinn’s nautical past. Ancient the Great Guild Hall, which is one of diving equipment, antique maps, Old Town’s more interesting buildings models of ships and the like fill its four and is definitely worth a look. Museum floors. Be sure to climb to the roof for is undergoing renovation works and will a great view of the city and port. be open to the public in May 2011. 28 Mine Museum 21 Kiek in de Kök Uus 37 • www.meremuuseum.ee Komandandi tee 2 • www.linnamuuseum.ee A branch of the Maritime Museum, Those interested in walls, towers, this small building displays a collection cannons and the like should drop into of deadly sea mines, most of which einmaa this museum of the town’s defenses. wound up on Estonian shores H Find it in the famous Kiek in de Kök aan J before being deactivated. Open by tower (see opposite page), Medieval appointment only. Old Town itself often feels like one Tallinn’s largest defensive tower. This big, living museum, but the area has museum is also the starting place for 29 Photographic Museum visitors who want to tour the tunnels Raekoja 4/6 • www.linnamuuseum.ee plenty of actual museums to help hidden under Toompea. visitors put what they’re seeing into In Medieval times this building was 27 used as a prison. Now it’s a museum proper context. Below are some mu- Maritime Museum Pikk 70 • www.meremuuseum.ee covering Estonian photography from seums in Old Town that chronicle 1840 to 1940. Displays include an early In Tallinn’s other main defense 20th-century darkroom, fascinating various aspects of Tallinn’s past. tower, Fat Margaret’s, you’ll find the old photos of Tallinn, and hundreds of For a complete list of museums Maritime Museum, where you can antique cameras, including a 1930s- learn everything you need to know throughout the city, see page 50. era Minox, designed in Estonia. 25 Tallinn City Museum Vene 17 • www.linnamuuseum.ee The Old Man of The guards have strict orders to answer Housed in a freshly-renovated, 14th the Ülemiste Lake no, there’s still loads of construction century merchant house, this modern When you’re here in Tallinn, if a going on and it’ll probably be years museum provides an excellent mysterious old man approaches you before it’s ready. The disappointed old introduction to Tallinn history from the and asks whether the city is finished man then turns and leaves, grumbling first settlements right up to the Singing yet, your answer had better be an all the way back to the lake. The belief Revolution and 1991 independence. emphatic “no.” One of Tallinn’s oldest was that if the answer were ever yes, legends tells of the Ülemiste Vanake, the old man would call up the waters of 26 Estonian History Museum the old man from Lake Ülemiste, the lake and wipe out the city in a great Pikk 17 • www.eam.ee which sits on the outskirts of town. flood. Luckily, despite ups and downs This museum focuses on Estonia One dark night each autumn he rises in the local economy, there’s always as a whole rather than just Tallinn, from the lake, knocks on the city gates some construction going on in Tallinn chronicling the nation’s developments and asks, “Is the city finished yet, so the city is safe from the old man from pre-historic times right up to or is there still work being done?” for the time being. 14 EXPLORING TALLINN

Two captivating neighborhoods just east of the city centre, Kadriorg and , are favourite destinations for Kadriorg and Pirita sightseers looking for what’s beyond Old Town. They’re also great places / to relax and unwind. Art Museum A.Weizenbergi 37 Kadriorg is a quiet, leafy area within www.ekm.ee easy walking distance of Old Town. Standing at the After Russian emperor Peter the Great centre of Kadriorg is the stunning, conquered the Baltics in the early 1700s Northern Baroque he established an estate and public park palace that Peter the on this spot. He named the area Ekateri- Great had built as a nenthal (Catherine’s valley, or Kadriorg summer residence in 1718. To experience in Estonian) after his wife, Catherine I. the full measure of The elaborate Baroque palace he had the imperial grandeur built – along with the surrounding here you should visit the manicured forests, ponds and fountains – garden in back, but are still the neighbourhood’s prime in any case drop draw. Over the next two centuries the into the inside, streets near the park became lined with now home to the foreign art branch ornate wooden mansions as Kadriorg of the Estonian

developed into the upscale residential ANUVAHTRA Art Museum. district that it remains today.

Creative-minded visitors should note that Kadriorg is also home to the nation’s best art museums – all the more reason it’s a great place for a Sunday stroll.

Kadriorg Park www.ekm.ee Surrounding the palace is the vast , the best place in town for pigeon feeding and life pondering. Criss-crossed with paths and dotted with statues,

it positively dominates the neighbourhood. KRISTJAN MÄNDMAA A good stopping spot is the rectangular Swan Pond, with its fountain, gazebo and nearby cafés. An uphill stroll from here leads past flower beds to another fountain area. SERGE ROMPZA TOOMASVOLMER EXPLORING TALLINN 15 ändmaa

Kadriorg and Pirita M ristjan Peter the Great’s Cottage K Mäekalda 2 www.linnamuuseum.ee Pirita This humble, 17th century cottage is where the mightiest of the Russian A little farther down the shoreline from tsars, Peter the Great, spent his Kadriorg is the Pirita district. With Tallinn stays while the nearby its 3km stretch of sand beach and a Kadriorg Palace was being built. yachting harbor, Pirita is best known Decorated with period-appropriate as a centre for summer frolicking. furnishings, it now serves as a A quieter way to enjoy the area is to vik

A head across the road to the Pirita River museum, displaying some of the in A emperor’s personal belongings. delta, where row boats, canoes and water bicycles can be rented. Pirita is Kumu Art Museum also worth visiting for its own bit of Medieval architecture – the ruins A. Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 www.ekm.ee of St. Bridget’s Convent. A must-see for culture creatures, Kumu, the main building of Art Museum of Estonia, serves both as Estonia’s national gallery and as a centre for contemporary art. The complex itself adanik is a work of art – it was opened in K ari 2006 after nearly a decade of planning M and construction, and is considered St. Bridget’s Convent a modern architectural masterpiece. Kloostri tee 9 • www.piritaklooster.ee Curves and sharp edges mark out the copper and limestone structure, which The mysterious, triangular shape tower- is built into the side of a limestone cliff. ing above the trees next to Pirita River belongs to the ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent, which operated here from 1407 until it was destroyed during the Livonian war in the late 16th century. The 35-metre facade, along with several walls, staircases and cellars, can still be seen, as can a farmer’s cemetery that developed here in the 17th century. huik Nearby is the modern building of the St. Bridgettine Order, which re- toomas established a convent here in 2001. MARI KADANIK SCANPIX ·

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum L.Koidula 21C • www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda Those visiting Kadriorg with children in tow will definitely want to put this new museum on their to-do list. Built in

a 1930s-era recreational centre, Miia-Milla-Manda offers KAIDO HAAGEN fun, creative activities. Its first exhibits are based around the theme of friendship. tee 52 • www.tba.ee With over 4,500 plant species and 123 hectares of space, the Botanical Russalka Garden near Pirita is the best place in This angel-shaped statue on Tallinn to stop and smell the flowers. Kadriorg’s beach is a monument In summer a stroll through the rose to the armored ship Russalka, garden is a must, but the extensive, which sank on its way to lush greenhouses make this a popular in 1893. The memorial was installed destination all year round. While in in 1902 to commemorate the ships the area, you can also visit the adjacent crew, all 177 of whom perished. (Forrest Cemetery), It has become a tradition for couples to where public figures of all sorts, from lay flowers here on their wedding day. poets to politicians, are buried. 16 EXPLORING TALLINN

Architecture buffs, history buffs or anyone who wants to get a feel for Kalamaja: the grittier edge of Tallinn’s art scene should pay a visit to Kalamaja, one of the so-called ‘wooden house districts’ Wooden houses & that cover the northern part of the city. This quiet neighborhood, just beyond the main railway station, Bohemian charm has long been known for its colourful hodgepodge of old-fashioned, work- ing-class houses. Recently it has also taken on a Bohemian atmosphere, becoming the residence of choice for young, creative types.

Throughout most of Tallinn’s history Kalamaja served as the town’s main fishing harbour. In fact, ‘Kalamaja’ liter- ally means ‘Fish House’ in Estonian, and starting from the 14th century the area was traditionally dominated by fisher- men, fishmongers and boatwrights. tangsoo -

Everything changed in 1870, however, sa õ v when Tallinn was connected to St. eimo Petersburg by railroad. Suddenly enor- R mous factories started to sprout up Visitors will also notice that some of the Likewise the 19th-century Tallinn in this part of town, and they brought Kalamaja’s old industrial infrastructure Electric Station at Põhja pst 29 houses with them an influx of thousands of is still intact and operating. The Estonia the Energy Science Centre, a place new workers. Piano Factory on Kungla 41, for exam- where kids can learn about science The wooden houses built to accommo- ple, is renowned for producing some of through hands-on displays and activi- date these workers became Kalamaja’s the world’s best grand pianos. ties. While in Kalamaja, travellers with architectural legacy and are now what kids should also stop by the Children’s gives neighbourhood its unforgettable Many factory buildings, however, have Museum, Kotzebue 16, which displays charm. The most architecturally unique now been converted for other uses, like toys and games from the Middle Ages of these are called ‘Tallinn Houses’. providing space for the city’s cutting- to today. Built in the 1920s and 30s, these two- edge art scene. ArtDepoo, a modern Kalamaja’s other curiosities include to three-storey apartment houses are art gallery at Jahu 12, makes its home the Patarei Sea Fortress and Prison. made of two symmetrical wooden in one such old factory. Along with the Originally built as a naval fortress in wings separated by a stone central SooSoo design gallery on Soo 4, it’s an 1829, it later became Tallinn’s central staircase. There are about 500 of these example of the neighbourhood’s crea- prison and still looks much as it did in in the city today. tive trend. Soviet times. Visitors can tour its dismal cells and hallways. Next to the prison to the east is the old , which is home to the ’s Museum Ships. These in- clude Lembit, a 1930s-era, British-built submarine, and Suur Tõll, Europe’s larg- est steam-powered icebreaker. To see them from the inside, just buy a ticket and climb aboard. If you just want to absorb some of Kalamaja’s romantic, shabby-chic ambi- ence, start by dropping into the Balti Jaama Turg, a chaotic market selling everything from dried fish to spare car parts. You’ll find it at the back of the Balti Jaam train station. Then head for a cof- fee at the aptly-named Boheem at Kopli 18. This homey, little café, stuffed with tangsoo - old furniture, has become the favourite sa õ v hangout of the local artsy set and is the eimo

R epitome of the Kalamaja milieu. EXPLORING TALLINN 17

F r e e dom s q ua r e aripuu M ihkel · M scanpix Freedom Square: Tallinn's new gathering spot In summer of 2009 the residents hodgepodge of architectural styles. of Tallinn were given back a vital Most of all this is one of best places piece of their city's heritage: to see evidence of the city's 1930s-era Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). building boom, with art-deco and From the last days of the Tsars and functionalist buildings flanking through Estonia's first period of two sides of the square. The area

independence, this open area at the is also home to the bright, yellow, uusikus edge of Old Town had been a place neo-gothic St. John's Church, which M ngmar of national symbolism and civic was built here in the 1860s. The large I pride, as well as a favourite public pillar with the cross that dominates gathering spot. the west side of the square is one of the square's new features. This During the 1980s and 90s though, is the Monument to the War of it had somehow developed into a Independence, commemorating aripuu parking lot, much to the annoyance Estonia's hard-fought struggle in 1918 M

of locals and city planners. Over – 1920 to free itself of foreign rule. ihkel a decade ago plans were put into · M motion to redevelop the square, To get a glimpse of the square's older scanpix moving the parking underground history, all you have to do is look and making the surface level down. A glass panel in the street on into a car-free recreation area. the northwest corner of the square Construction started in 2008, and reveals the foundation and stairs of after one year of intense work, the Harju Gate tower that stood 3

9,000m of concrete, and countless here in Medieval times. langovits

granite slabs, the new Freedom Even more historic information – peeter Square was finally complete. Now · it's a sophisticated place to relax, along with some science-type fun scanpix filled with benches and cafés, and – can be found in the new AHHAA faced by two art galleries. Science Centre tucked into the underground gallery on the opposite to the hands-on displays, it has Anyone visiting the square today side of the square. AHHAA is an a permanent exhibition on the will notice that, unlike its Old Town interactive activity centre designed square's 5,000-year-old history counterpart Town Hall Square, the to make science interesting for and the archaeological finds made buildings around Freedom square are kids and young adults. In addition during the recent construction. 18 EXPLORING TALLINN

After Estonians regained indepen- dence in 1991 they were quick to sweep aside the Lenin statues and other remnants of the Soviet era and get on to rebuilding. Still, a half-century of history did leave its mark, so there are quite a few interesting reminders of that bygone era to be seen. ANUVAHTRA

grandiose Naval Officer’s House at Mere pst. 5 with its sickle and hammer, Soviet Legacy built in 1954; the residential house at Tartu mnt. 24, topped by a spire and star; and the Sõprus cinema, Vana- Posti 8, which opened in 1955. rro A ohannes SERGE ROMPZA J

TV Tower KGB Headquarters Kloostrimetsa tee 58A Pikk 59 VALLO KRUUSER At 314 meters, the TV tower in Pirita The most feared building in Soviet is the tallest structure in the country. times was Pikk 59, the Tallinn Kalaranna 2 More than that, it’s a prime example headquarters of the KGB. Here www.patarei.com perceived enemies of the state of the kind of grand, concrete building Barbed wire, attack dogs, execution were processed and interrogated projects that appeared in the later rooms ... it doesn’t get much grimmer before being shot or sent to Siberia. Soviet period. The tower was opened than this. Originally built as a fortress Nowadays the only clues to its sinister in 1980 and until recently it had a in 1840, this seaside complex served as past are the strangely bricked up restaurant operating on its 170m-high a prison from 1919 until 2004. It recently basement windows and a plaque observation deck. At present the tower is opened as a museum where visitors that reads, “This building housed the not open to visitors. can explore the mostly untouched headquarters of the organ of the remnants of Soviet prison life. Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.” rro A ohannes arry J B heila Maarjamäe War Memorial S Pirita tee 56 Museum of Occupations www.eam.ee ANDREAS MEICHSNER Toompea 8 That bizarre ensemble of hulking www.okupatsioon.ee concrete shapes and grass-covered Architecture This high-tech museum chronicles earthworks you see along the coastal Everyday buildings from Soviet times life in Estonia during the 1940 – 1991 Pirita road is actually a memorial to can be seen all over Tallinn – entire period when the nation was occupied Soviet soldiers killed in World War II. residential districts were built from by Nazi and Soviet regimes. It’s a Though the obelisk is older (dating scratch in the 60s, 70s and 80s. The must-see for 20th century history to 1960), most of the complex was most interesting Soviet architectural buffs and anyone who wants to built in 1975. A German war cemetery objects though are those built in understand modern Estonian society. stands behind the site. so-called Stalinist style, used from 1945 to 1955. Good examples are the EXPLORING TALLINN 19

The Occupation Years

1940-1944 Estonia’s 22-year period of independence ended abruptly with the outbreak of World War II. Caught between Nazi Germany and Stalin’s , the fledgling nation stood little chance to stay out of the fray. The Soviets invaded, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again, each visiting fresh atrocities on the local population. A Soviet bombing raid on March 9, 1944 destroyed the oplimets St. Nicholas’ Church and flattened K arel the houses around it. K

1949 On a single day, nearly 21,000 Modern Tallinn: Estonians were rounded up for deportation to Siberia. the Rotermann Quarter 1950s After Stalin’s death, relative calm Tallinn is a city that stays connected When Estonia regained its returned. Buildings like the Sõprus with its history, with many independence in 1991, the Rotermann (Friendship) cinema were constructed neighbourhoods providing excellent Quarter was in desperate need to replace Old Town structures snapshots into the various periods of renewal. Since then, bit by bit, destroyed in the war. of its past. To see where the city is different projects have breathed new heading in the 21st century though, life into the area. 1960s-80s take a stroll through the Rotermann Quarter, a former factory complex The most notable of these is the Large, Soviet-style residential districts that sits between Old Town and the Rotermann Centre, a trendy were built to accommodate incoming Passenger Port. What was a collection shopping and cultural zone that factory workers from Russia. Tallinn of dilapidated buildings just a decade opened in 2007. The centre is made residents were able to tune into ago is now a bustling commercial and up of both cleverly revamped factory Finnish TV to catch a glimpse of cultural centre, whose avant-garde buildings and modern structures, life in the West. architecture stands as a powerful which gives it a completely unique 1980 symbol of just how far Tallinn has come appearance. In between its shops, in re-inventing itself in recent years. restaurants and cafés is a central Tallinn hosted the yachting events square that's home to an open-air of the Moscow Olympics. The Hotel This sprawling, industrial zone got food and craft market in warmer Olümpia, Olympic Yachting Centre, its start in 1829 when wealthy Baltic- months, and a Christmas market Pirita Highway, harbour German businessman Christian in December. The square is also the centre and TV Tower were all built Abraham Rotermann bought the focal point of the many festivals and for the occasion. land and started a covered market concerts that the centre hosts. here that sold construction materials. 1984 Later Rotermann and his family Visitors in search of a cultural After extensive restoration, moved their department store to experience in the Rotermann Quarter St. Nicholas’ Church was reopened the site, and throughout the 19th can visit the Loovala art collective, as a museum and concert hall. century expanded the area to include a group of studios where artists work a sawmill, a wool mill, a distillery and display their creations. There's also Late 1980s and other businesses. By the start the striking Rotermann Salt Storage What started out as environmental of the 20th century, the Rotermann building nearby, which houses the protests turned into calls for Estonian factories were the heart of industrial Estonian Museum of Architecture, and self-rule and eventually, full-fledged Tallinn. Eventually, however, in summer the former flour warehouse independence. In 1988, mass singing Sovietera nationalisation and neglect is the site of an exhibit of Soviet-era cars events involving 100,000 to 300,000 would take their toll. and motorcycles called 'Made in USSR'. people were held in Tallinn’s Song Festival Grounds. This outpouring of national spirit would later be dubbed “The Singing Revolution.”

1991 On August 20, during the dying days of the Soviet Union, Estonia declared jaanson independence. illa nga I J. S 20 CULTURE

Whether you’re the type who dresses City of Culture up for the opera, dresses down for a rock show or just gets lost in a Cubist painting, you’ll find plenty of food for your soul in Tallinn. Not only does the city have a respectably packed concert and festival calendar, there’s also an active gallery scene, and even an edgy design culture that’s making Europe’s art world stand up and take notice. olmer V oomas T culture 21

Estonian Song and Dance Celebrations

Ask any Estonian what it means to be Estonian, and the first idea that will City of Culture leap into his or her mind will be the Estonian Song and Dance Celebration. These massive folk gatherings, involv- ing thousands of colourfully-dressed performers from all over Estonia and abroad, have helped define the nation's spirit ever since the days of the first Es- tonian Song Celebration in 1869. In the 20th century the celebration developed into a regular cultural phenomenon, and is now held once every five years. uul T oomas T

A separate Youth Song and Dance Celebration was introduced in the early 1960s to accommodate the huge num- bers of youth choirs and dance groups that wanted to participate. It's held on separate years from the main celebra- tion, but is every bit as spectacular. Youth Song and Dance Celebration 2011 The Youth Song and Dance Celebration 2011 will be no exception. About 35,000 young performers are expected to participate in the festival, whose theme this time around 'A country opens into a whole wide world'. The 2011 festival coincides with Tallinn's year-long term as a European Capital of Culture, and will no doubt be one of the must-see festivals of the year's event-packed calendar.

www.laulupidu.ee edanik P eino 22 CULTURE

For unique atmosphere though, it’s hard to beat the Birgitta Festival, several days of outdoor concerts set amid the stunning ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent. The event is presented by the Tallinn Philharmonic Society so expect vocal symphonic works, opera and more. The season ends on a more modern note with the August Dance Festival. Held in the Kanut Guild Hall, this month-long event showcases the latest trends in international contemporary dance. Autumn Galleries, concert halls and other indoor venues once again become the oplimets K focus of the cultural scene once the arel K cooler weather of autumn arrives. In September the Estonian Association of Designers organises Events Through the Seasons Arts & Lights, a three-day event that combines art and light in creative Here’s a sampling of major events in in early July: Beer Summer, the ways in different spots around the Tallinn’s cultural calendar. biggest outdoor festival in the Baltics. city. It culminates in a Design Night Despite the name, beer is only a small held in unusual locations like Medieval Please visit www.tourism.tallinn.ee part of the event. There are loads of towers and an old electric station. for the latest information and a full activities for children and adults, an 10 events list. different arenas play host to local and A more etherial, and musical, event international bands. also happens in late September: the Spring Credo International Festival of Spring in Tallinn starts off with the Later in the month the history- Orthodox Sacred Music. Orthodox sound of jazz, namely the Jazzkaar themed events make a comeback. religious music, both traditional and International Jazz Festival, held Medieval Days, a four-day modern, features in this concert series in late April. A must-see for music celebration of bygone times, involves dedicated to the Virgin Mary. costumed characters demonstrating fans, this is the largest annual jazz At the St. Martin’s Day Fair in traditional trades and selling their fest in the Baltics and includes early November, national handicraft wares in Old Town. Those who want intriguing guest performers from workshops and sales are accompanied to get away from these landlubbers around the globe. During the same by traditional culinary delights, folk should check out Tallinn Maritime month, churches and concert houses music and Martinmas costumes. throughout the city fill with heavenly Days, a huge, sea-faring festival music for the International Choir involving all sorts of water-related Festival, a four-day event that attractions. Look for boat trips, includes a high-level competition in concerts, special performances and the Estonia Concert Hall. plenty of exciting activities for the kids. In late July opera and ballet stars Summer from Estonia and beyond gather When the long-awaited warm days at the Estonian National Opera for of summer finally arrive, the city’s Summer Night Stars, a recap of the cultural scene moves outdoors. best performances of the season. During the first week of June Classical music afficionados have Old Town bursts into a frenzy of plenty to keep them entertained celebration as musicians, Medieval in August. The International characters, markets and events fill Organ Music Festival, a 10-day the streets for Old Town Days, one of concert series featuring top-notch the city’s biggest annual events. Held classical performances, is the since the 1980s, this celebration of perfect opportunity to experience the city’s Medieval heritage has now the acoustics and ambience of the exapanded into include just about nation’s historic churches. Several everything, from old-fashioned jousts classical music concerts by Estonia’s to modern dance performances to top soloists and ensembles can also be museum exhibits. heard in the Tallinn Chamber Music Festival, held in concert halls and A louder and far more racous event churches around town.

fills the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds ALLANALAJAAN CULTURE 23

D O W N TO W N E V E N T C E NT r e S

Winter To stay entertained during the dark, cold days of winter, Tallinn hosts the Black Nights Film Festival the largest annual cinema festival in the Baltics. Held mid-November to early December, this highly organised and extensive film event focuses on world cinema, and also includes sub festivals that cover ESTONIA student films and animation. Estonia Theatre Opera Gala for Children • The spirit of Christmas comes to Tallinn November 8, 2009 Estonia pst 4 • www.opera.ee in the form of the charming Christmas www.concert.ee The stage director is Neeme Market, which fills Town Hall Square Kuningas, music by Erki Pehk. from the beginning of December to The nation’s preeminent performing The Love for Three Oranges • early January. The Christmas market arts institutions are the Estonian January 28, 2010 has become a staple of the holiday National Opera (which also A four-act opera with a prologue season and plays a huge role in getting stages ballet) and the Estonian by Sergey Prokofiev, based on Carlo the city into a festive mood. From National Symphony Orchestra. Gozzi’s comedy (of the same name). rows of little, Alpine huts, sellers offer Both have active schedules, and a traditional gifts, food and drink. There convenient quirk is that they hold Coppélia • March 4, 2010 are also frequent concerts on the their performances in the same A ballet by Léo Delibes. market stage, sheep for petting, and building: the Estonia Theatre on Based on the story by Ernst Theodor appearances by Father Christmas. Estonia pst. 4. Built in 1913 and last Amadeus Hoffmann „The Sand-Man“. refurbished in 2005, the grand, Art Les Pêcheurs de Perles • Jazz music has also become part of Nouveau structure still belongs to April 15, 2010 the Christmas tradition in Tallinn. At the “Estonia” theatrical company, An opera by Georges Bizet in three the annual Jazzkaar Christmas Jazz but mainly hosts other institutions’ acts. Libretto by Eugène Cormoni festival in December, Estonian and performances. The state concert and Michel Carré. international musicians perform jazz in agency, Eesti Kontsert, is also Die Fledermaus • May 13, 2010 venues throughout the city. headquartered here, which means An operetta by Johann Strauss in that tickets for nearly all classical The year’s cultural calendar winds up in three acts. Libretto by Karl Haffner events, even those happening spectacular style with a glamour-filled and Richard Genée, based on the elsewhere in town, are available in New Year’s Eve Ball in the Estonian vaudeville Le Réveillon by Henri its box offices here. National Opera. Meilhac and Ludovic Halévy. The music doesn’t stop with New Opera Premieres The week of operetta Year’s though. In late January and early Sept 2009 – July 2010: “My Fair Operetta” • June 1-6, 2010 February, the city hosts the Baroque Passionately admired operettas Die Music Festival, which includes Cosi Fan Tutte • October 17, 2009 Fledermaus and Wiener Blut, and performances by international guests W. A. Mozart’s comic opera. the popular musical My Fair Lady as well as Estonia’s own legendary The stage director is James Walter will be performed. group Hortus Musicus. Francis Sutcliffe (UK). ikkas K aupo K

Solaris Centre a number of different theatres and halls, a 3D multiplex cinema, an Estonia pst 9 • www.solaris.ee art-house cinema, and a number Just a couple hundred metres from of shops and cafés. Its main feature Tallinn's historic Estonia Theatre though is its grand Nokia Concert you'll find the city's newest major Hall, which seats over 1,800 culture venue, the ultra-modern spectators. This multifunctional hall Solaris Centre. Opened in 2009, this is designed to be used for everything vast complex is easily the largest from international conventions and most high-tech event venue in to opera performances. Check the the Baltics. The Solaris encompasses schedule for upcoming events. 24 CULTURE

Tall i nn – e u rop e an cap i tal of c u lt u r e 2 0 1 1 ARHIIV Tallinn – European Capital of Culture 2011

In 2011 Tallinn will become the focus of Europe's culture Tallinn Maritime Days 2010 scene when it takes on its role as a European Capital July 16 – 18, 2010 of Culture. As part an EU initiative that started in 1985, www.tallinnamerepaevad.ee two European cities are awarded the honour each year, Birgitta Festival during which they have the chance to showcase their August 12 – 22, 2010 cultural offerings to the rest of the world. www.birgitta.ee Tallinn is busily gearing up for the occasion, planning a huge array of special events and holding competitions September 12, 2010 for ideas, creative works and even ecological souvenirs. www.jooks.ee The theme the city has chosen for its 2011 programme is Plektrum 'Stories of the Seashore'. The idea is to re-open the city to August 25 - September 5, 2010 the sea, and with the help of writers, musicians, actors, www.plektrumfestival.ee tell the stories of Tallinn's, and Estonia's, spiritual and cultural connection to the seashore. 14th Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival (PÖFF) November 17 - December 5, 2010 The exact programme for 2011 is still in the works, but www.poff.ee visitors don't have to wait to experience it. Some events have been planned for 2010 as 'opening events' to the European Film Awards 2010 award gala ECOC 2011. December 3 – 5, 2010 www.tallinn2011.ee Here are some examples: The Opening Ceremony of the European Capital Simpel Session of Culture February 5 – 7, 2010 December 31, 2010 www.session.ee www.tallinn2011.ee

Tallinn Music Week Further information: www.tallinn2011.ee March 25 – 27, 2010 www.tallinnmusicweek.ee

Jazzkaar International Jazz Festival April 2010 www.jazzkaar.ee culture 25

Art & Design

Artistic juices have been flowing in Tallinn for a long time. Even as far back as the 15th century Estonian- born painter Michael Sittow was travelling Europe creating portraits for the Hapsburg royalty. These days contemporary Estonian art and design works are still making their way abroad, but luckily most can be viewed without buying a ticket to Vienna. Art Museums The oldest artworks on permanent display in Tallinn, including Bernt Notke’s famous, skeletal painting Danse Macabre, can be found at the St. Nicholas’ Church/Museum (see Exploring Tallinn), the branch of the Estonian Art Museum that specialises alvari in religious art. But to get the full P nnika picture of Tallinn’s art offerings you STANISLAV STEPASHKO A need to go to Kadriorg, where these three museums are located: Kadriorg Art Museum Mikkel Museum Weizenbergi 37 Weizenbergi 28 Kumu Art Museum www.ekm.ee www.ekm.ee Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Peter the Great’s Baroque Palace Flemish and Dutch paintings, www.ekm.ee makes this perfect home for the Italian engravings and Chinese This modern facility wedged into museum that displays the nation’s porcelain are among the exquisite a limestone hill at the end of collection of foreign art. Hundreds works here. Private collector Weizenbergi street is by far Estonia’s of Western European and Russian Johannes Mikkel donated them to biggest and newest art museum. The paintings from the 16th to 20th the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. focus here is on Estonian art, which is centuries can be seen here, as can The stars of the show are four divided into two eras: 18th century to prints, sculptures and other objects. etchings by Rembrandt, including World War II, and the Soviet period, When entering, consider buying one self-portrait. 1940-1991. Temporary exhibitions the combined ticket that also covers display more modern works. the Mikkel Museum. oplimets einmaa K H arel aan J K 26 culture

12 8 Art Galleries

10 6 9

11 7 4

5

13

3 1 2

1 Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery Vabaduse väljak 6 www.kunstihoone.ee Housed in an imposing, 1930s-era building, the Art Hall hosts major alvari

Estonian and international P exhibitions. Its street-level gallery nnika is also used for smaller showings. A V antso

uuli HAUS GALLERY T

2 Vabaduse Gallery 6 Haus Gallery Vabaduse väljak 6 Uus 17 www.kunstihoone.ee www.haus.ee Small exhibitions downstairs This commercial gallery specialises from the Tallinn Art Hall. in high-quality Estonian works. V antso

uuli ANUVAHTRA T

3 Tallinn City Gallery 7 Hobusepea Gallery Harju 13 Hobusepea 2 www.kunstihoone.ee www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm The third branch of the Art Hall trio is Contemporary art created by both an active venue for cutting edge art. the famous and the up-and-coming. GALLERY draakoni ANUVAHTRA

4 Draakoni Gallery 5 Galleries in Kumu Art Museum 8 Estonian Modern Art Museum Pikk 18 Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Põhja pst 35 www.eaa.ee/draakon/english/eindex.htm www.ekm.ee www.ekkm-came.blogspot.com A pair of Art Nouveau dragons mark Two floors of the museum are used The freshest and newest in this airy, Old Town gallery run by for contemporary exhibits and events. young Estonian art. the Estonian Artists’ Association. culture 27

G I F T I D E AS DESIGN MUSEUM

Design Museums Some observers chalk it up to the Scandinavian influence, but for one reason or another Estonians have proved to have a particular flair for design, pushing the limits in everything from furniture to home textiles to fashion. KALJU SUUR

9 Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Music, Lai 17 Estonian style www.etdm.ee It’s impossible for Estonians The nation’s top applied art museum covers the whole to talk about music, spectrum, showing wonderful examples of textile art, particularly choral music, ceramics, porcelain, leather, glass, jewellery, metalwork, without waxing nostalgic furniture and product design. Find it in a 17th-century about our history. This is, storehouse in Old Town. after all, the country of the 1988 “Singing Revolution.” 10 Museum of Choral singing and Estonian identity became estonian Architecture connected as far back as the mid-19th century when Ahtri 2 the first nationwide Song Festival was held. Even www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee today Estonia’s most renowned composer, Arvo The unusual Rotermann Salt Storage building near Pärt, orients most of his work toward choral music, the port is a fitting place for this museum dedicated to though his minimalist style is radically different from developments in Estonian architecture. Displays include the tunes our grandparents sang. To hear his works drawings, photos and a scale model of central Tallinn. first hand, try to catch a performance by the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, or pick up one of their CDs in a shop. Animation Film buffs will be glad to hear that Estonia is home to a small but active animation scene. The most famous artist in the field is Priit Pärn, whose surreal, primitive-style works have been winning awards since the 1970s. More recently a series of films by Heiki Ernits and Janno Põldma have become a ändmaa

M success: “Tom and Fluffy,” “Lotte,” and “Ladybird’s ristjan K Christmas.” Though the Design Galleries cartoons are made for children, 11 A-Gallery they’re loaded Hobusepea 2 with philosophy www.ehted.agalerii.ee that adults can This should be your first stop for high-quality jewellery art. appreciate. They’re also 12 Gallery SooSoo available Soo 4 on DVD in www.soosoo.ee English. A funky design, furniture and art gallery in the Kalamaja district.

13 Gallery of Design and Architecture Pärnu mnt 6 Frequently changing exhibitions in a bright, downtown space. 28 DINING OUT

Hungry? No problem. Finding an interesting, affordable place to eat in Tallinn is easy, especially given the Di ning Out culinary boom the city has seen in the last few years. The bigger challenge will be figuring out what kind of restaurant you’re in the mood for: traditional Estonian, cutting edge fusion, African, Thai, maybe something with a Medieval theme... the list goes on. Tallinn’s bigger pubs and cafés also offer full- fledged meals ranging from simple, meat-and-potatoes dishes to elaborate salads and pastas.

Most of the city’s restaurants are clustered in and around Old Town, and nearly all have English menus and English-speaking staff. There’s no way to list all of the choices here, but we’ve come up some options to start you off. Alternatively, you can just stroll through the cobblestone streets until you spy a menu you like. Bon appetite, or as we say in Estonian, head isu! MARI KADANIK DINING OUT 29 Di ning Out 30 DINING OUT

11 Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Dunkri 8 • www.notsu.ee

Ö This country-style restaurant is a great place to try sausages, port-knuckle Modern Trends and wild game. 1 The cutting edge of Tallinn’s 12 Kaerajaan 2 culinary scene.

7 Raekoja plats 17 • www.kaerajaan.ee 5 Museum 4 A modern twist on classic Estonian Vana-Viru 14 • www.museum.ee favourites can be found in this artsy One of Tallinn's hotter dining spots restaurant 0n Town Hall Square. 8 12 is this restaurant-lounge built into 11 5 what was once a firehouse museum. 13 14 Risotto, pasta, sushi and a trendy ambience are all on offer.

10 6 Vertigo 3 Rävala pst 4 • www.vertigo.ee 6 A 9th-floor view adds an extra touch olmer

of class to this forward-thinking V

9 establishment that boasts one of oomas Estonia’s most renowned chefs. T

7 Ö Medieval Mere pst 6E • www.restoran-o.ee The historic milieu of Old Town has given rise to a new genre of At Ö (the Scandinavian word for restaurant. “island”), the interior is artistic, the ingredients are fresh and the crowd 13 Olde Hansa is discerning. Vana turg 1 • www.oldehansa.ee 8 Ribe Tallinn’s most famous restaurant Vene 7 • www.ribe.ee has won accolades for its elaborate, Medieval ambience, which is Founded by three highly experienced REVAL CAFE enhanced by candlelight, chamber waiters, this artistically-decorated music and friendly service. Classic Gourmet restaurant specialises in French Make a reservation, wear something classics with an Estonian twist. 14 Peppersack nice and prepare to be dazzled. Viru 2 • www.peppersack.ee 1 Bonaparte A 15th-century dining venue where Pikk 45 • www.bonaparte.ee waitresses in Medieval costume, belly Bonaparte serves up fine French dancing and sword fights keep the cuisine in an exquisitely restored visitors entertained. Medieval house.

2 Egoist E STON I A N F O O D RI SELJAMAA

Vene 33 • www.egoist.ee Ü J Traditional Estonian food – the This restaurant’s old-fashioned, kind grandma serves up – has bourgeois luxury and exclusive feel Estonian its roots in centuries-old village are enough to boost any ego. life with Scandinavian, German You haven’t really experienced Estonia and Slavic influences thrown in. 3 Gloria until you’ve tried our national food. It’s usually meaty, salty and rich. Müürivahe 2 • www.gloria.ee Favourites include sült (jellied 9 Eesti Maja Often chosen as a VIP dining pork served cold with a spot of destination, Gloria is a chic, Lauteri 1 • www.eestimaja.ee mustard), marineeritud angerjas 1930s-style establishment with the A comfortable, home-style haunt (marinated eel), mulgikapsad distinction of once being included on offering all the classic Estonian (sauerkraut stew with pork), Condé Nast Traveller’s top-100 list. dishes. It even has a lunch buffet. Baltic sprats and hernesupp (pea soup). In winter daring visitors 4 Stenhus 10 MEKK can try verivorst (blood sausage), Pühavamu 13/15 • www.stenhus.ee Suur-Karja 17/19 • www.mekk.ee a Christmastime speciality. The Schlössle Hotel’s cosy cellar This cosy, Old Town restaurant serves up And for dessert there’s kama, venue was named Best Gourmet the best of modern Estonian cuisine. a dish made from grains, Restaurant in Estonia for four years powdered peas and sour milk. running. DINING OUT 31 ändmaa

M 15 ristjan K Ethnic From Azerbaijani to French to Tex- 29 Mex, there are far too many great 19 ethnic restaurants in Tallinn to list. lafira

Here’s a start: K

15 Russian African Kitchen 25 24

Uus 32/34 • www.africankitchen.ee 18 17 You don’t have to cross the eastern 23 27 21 Fun décor, incense and mellow beats border to sample the rich offerings 22 add to the relaxed atmosphere at of Russian cuisine. 20 this African restaurant/lounge bar. 21 Klafira 16 Argentiina Vene 4 • www.klafira.ee Pärnu mnt 37 • www.argentiina.ee Waitresses in bright folk costumes 28 Meats grilled of Latin-American style serve Russian favourites in an old- are the specialty of this restaurant. fashioned, Old Town venue. 26

17 Controvento 22 Nevskij 16 Vene 12 • www.controvento.ee Rataskaevu 7 • www.nevskij.ee This top-notch Italian restaurant set This elegant restaurant in the in a Medieval house in St. Catherine’s St. Petersburg Hotel is crammed Passage has been a staple of Tallinn’s with paintings, books and even dining scene for several years running. has its own parrot. Cafés & Chocolateries Peruse the city’s diverse café scene 18 Elevant 23 Troika to find gourmet coffees, handmade Vene 5 • www.elevant.ee Raekoja plats 15 • www.troika.ee chocolates and trendy hangouts. Tasty Indian standards, along with Something out of a Russian fairy tale, daring dishes (Moose Korma), are Troika dazzles guests with elaborate 25 Kehrwieder Chocolaterie served in Elevant’s stylish dining décor, good food, music and dancing. Saiakang 1 • www.kohvik.ee rooms. A perennial hit thanks to its cave- 24 Tchaikovsky like cosiness, antique furniture 19 Golden Dragon Vene 9 • www.telegraafhotel.com and candlelight, not to mention Pikk 37 • www.goldendragon.ee A fusion of Russian and French the quality coffee and sweets. A welcoming, Old Town cellar cuisine is on offer at the Telegraaf restaur-ant offering classic Hotel’s luxury restaurant. 26 Kultus Chinese fare. Vabaduse väljak 10 • www.kultus.ee Tallinn’s young and chic have made 20 Silk this café their home. Full meals are Kullassepa 4 • www.silk.ee served on the lounge-like upper floor, Quiet sophistication and excellent which has also become a nightspot. sushi are the specialities at this much- loved gem, located just off Town Hall 27 Pierre Chocolaterie Square. Vene 6 • www.pierre.ee jaanson The historic setting of the Master’s nga I Courtyard adds an extra touch of charm to this little café where D I N I N G B A S I CS tempting truffles are the speciality.

28 Prices: Main courses in most Old Town restaurants cost 150–300 kroons Reval Café (€10–20). A 0.5-litre beer will be 40–50 kroons (€2.5–3). Müürivahe 14 • www.revalcafe.ee Hours: Restaurants generally open at noon and stop serving at 23:00. Comfortable sofas and soft lighting create a romantic mood at the Reval Tipping: It has become customary to leave a 10 percent tip in chain’s flagship location. restaurants with table service. Credit Cards: Nearly all restaurants, cafés and bars accept credit/debit 29 Spirit Café cards. Mere pst 6E • www.kohvikspirit.ee Smoking: Smoking is banned by law inside all restaurants, bars and clubs. Drop by this modern, relaxed café It’s allowed, however, on outdoor terraces and in specialised smoking rooms. for wine, sushi or dishes like penne with smoked chicken. 32 A NIGHT ON THE TOWN A Night on the Town A NIGHT ON THE TOWN 33 A Night on the Town With so many bars, pubs and clubs squeezed into the same small area, it’s easy for revellers to stumble merrily from one spot to the other, compare notes and find a place that suits their mood. It doesn’t have to be a wild night either: the town caters just as much to visitors who’d rather grab a pint and watch a football match, sit by the fire sipping cognac or share a bottle of wine with an old friend. ANUVAHTRA 34 A NIGHT ON THE TOWN

E STON I A N B e e r

If you’re looking to sample the Estonian brew, your choices in most pubs are Saku and A. Le Coq, the two major brands that dominate the nation’s market. Of the Saku beers, Saku Originaal (Original) is the most common, though the more elite Saku Kuld (Gold) has recently gained popular- ity with its smoother taste. SAKU

A. Le Coq’s flagship brand is MARI KADANIK A. Le Coq Premium. Both firms Wine Bars Pubs produce several other varieties, including ice beers, which are Quiet, romantic places where you can Snacks, sports and rounds of lager. typically served in a 0.33-litre get lost in conversation over a good bottle capped with a lemon slice. merlot. 5 Beer House Fans of dark beer can try the Saku Dunkri 5 • www.beerhouse.ee Tume and A. Le Coq Porter. 1 Gloria Veinikelder This sprawling, raucous, German- Müürivahe 2 • www.gloria.ee style beer hall is Tallinn’s only micro- The Gloria restaurant’s celebrated brewery, serving seven varieties of wine cellar radiates 1930s elegance house beer. and offers about 2,000 wines, whiskeys and cognacs. 6 Hell Hunt Pikk 39 • www.hellhunt.ee 2 Musi Niguliste 6 • www.musi.ee Known for its comfortable, local atmosphere and good food, the The name in Estonian means 'kiss', Gentle Wolf is a popular destination and Musi is appropriately romantic, every night of the week. artsy and inviting. A LE COQ 7 Karja Kelder To expand your beer horizons 3 In Vino Veritas Väike-Karja 1 • www.karjakelder.ee beyond the big breweries, look for Lai 6 • www.invinoveritas.ee Puls Extra Lager, which is produc- Fill up on garlic bread and local vibes This small, family restaurant doubles ed in Pärnu, or the unique Wiru at this old-fashioned, Estonian cellar as an intimate wine bar. Kadakaõlu (juniper beer) made in pub. southern Estonia. A couple Tallinn 4 Veinipööning 8 Molly Malone’s pubs, namely Hell Hunt and Beer Viru 18, 4th floor • www.veinipooning.ee House, also sell their own labels. Mündi 2 • www.mollymalones.ee In keeping with its name, the Wine Attic is a cosy, top-floor venue Located right on Town Hall Square, decked out with comfy chairs and a Tallinn’s main Irish pub draws in hodgepodge of antique furniture. the crowds with televised sports, a respectable pub menu and live music.

9 Nimeta Suur-Karja 4 • www.nimetabaar.ee A popular, international sports bar made all the more lively by weekend DJs and dancing. PULS VILLU KRAAN A NIGHT ON THE TOWN 35 ANUVAHTRA Lounges 13 6 Sink into a sofa and sip cocktails with the trendy crowd. 18 10 Deja Vu 3 Sauna 1 • www.dejavu.ee An intimate, exclusive bar featuring 8 weekend DJs and an extensive menu. 19 16 11 Lounge 8 5 2 17 4 Vana-Posti 8 • www.lounge8.ee 7 10 21 This relaxing cocktail lounge has long 9 22 been a popular gathering place for discerning locals. 14 11

12 Lounge 24 1 Rävala pst 3 • 15 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn 12 20 Cocktails, comfy sofas and incredible city views are all on offer here on the 24th floor of the Radisson Hotel. 16 Venus Club 19 Von Krahli Baar Clubs Vana-Viru 14 • www.venusclub.ee Rataskaevu 10/12 • www.vonkrahl.ee Places to go for high-energy mixing This big club built into an old A well-worn venue where young peo- and mingling, not to mention dancing. firehouse remains one of Tallinn's ple come to hear alternative music. most popular. 13 BonBon 20 Rock Cafe Mere pst 6E • www.bonbon.ee Live Music Venues Tartu mnt 80D • www.rockcafe.ee The city’s fashionable set favours Get a taste of the local band culture. An edgy club set in a renovated this chic club near the port. factory building, Rock Cafe is the 17 place to go to see Estonia's most 14 Club Hollywood Clazz active rock bands. Vana-Posti 8 • www.clubhollywood.ee Vana turg 2 • www.clazz.ee A celebrated, Old Town party spot, On most evenings this polished, Gay nightlife Hollywood is a magnet for tourists Old Town restaurant presents live Though attitudes here aren’t so and young locals alike. acts, usually of the Brazilian, Latin or reggae variety. cosmopolitan as in Western Europe, 15 Club Privé Tallinn is home to its own thriving 18 Scotland Yard gay scene. Harju 6 • www.clubprive.ee Mere pst 6E • www.scotlandyard.ee The top-notch DJ lineup and the “in” 21 Club Angel Local bands take to the stage atmosphere are the main draws to Sauna 1 • www.clubangel.ee this exclusive club. Wednesday through Saturday at this sprawling, crime-themed pub. A busy nightclub with attached café, Angel is easily Tallinn’s most popular gay venue.

22 X-Baar Väike-Karja 1 • http://web.zone.ee/xbaar/ Located just around the corner from Angel, this old standby continues to be a focal point for the community. eichsner M ndreas A 36 RELAXING & RECHARGING Relaxing & Recharging Most visitors head to Tallinn to see this charming, historic city, but many also come here to take time out from their hectic lives and treat themselves to some serious rest and relaxation. Luckily for them, in Tallinn the term “city break” can mean just that: a city where they can escape, unwind and regain a sense of well-being.

Thanks to a highly developed spa industry – a tradition that goes back nearly 200 years in this country – Estonians know how to pamper their guests. There are also a number of peaceful park and beach areas around town that are perfect for relaxing strolls, as well as plenty of active, sporty ways to de-stress. All you have to do is choose your preference, whether that means going for a bike ride, having a massage or sitting on a beach. RELAXING & RECHARGING 37 Relaxing & Recharging MADIS PALM 38 RELAXING & RECHARGING

TH E G r e AT O U TDOO R S MARI KADANIK

There’s nothing like fresh air For a little education along with your views of the rocky shoreline with and sunshine to clear your head, greenery there’s also the Estonian the cityscape in the distance. Open Air Museum, where traditional and Tallinn has lots of beautiful, Sand beaches are easy to find and wide-open spaces where you can villages have been recreated, and the Tallinn Botanic Garden, which covers are well developed, but don’t expect do just that. Visitors who come crashing waves. The geography here within a few weeks of the 123 hectares of land. Both are on the edges of the city. of the Baltic Sea makes for gentle summer solstice (June 21) have lapping and, in summer, warm the added bonus of experiencing Seacoast & Beaches waters. The largest and most our “White Nights,” when the sun popular is Pirita Beach, barely barely sets before midnight and The sea is another key ingredient in outside the city centre. Suburban rises again at around 4 a.m. Tallinn’s natural appeal. A favourite beaches like Stroomi Beach and way to experience the beauty of Kakumäe will also fill up on a Parks is to walk, bike or skate summer’s day. For something a down the paved promenade that bit more secluded, head a couple You never have to go far to find runs from Kadriorg toward the Pirita green areas in Tallinn – the west kilometres north of the city to district. Nearly 2km long, the path , on the coast. and south edges of Old Town are follows the waterfront, providing bordered by well-maintained parks. These include the park at Tornide väljak (Tower square) from where there are excellent views of the city’s Medieval wall and towers. Just south of here is Shnelli Pond, an elongated moat where ducks gather. Next to Toompea Castle you can stroll around Lindamägi (Linda Hill) and Harjumägi (Harju Hill). Built atop 17th-century Swedish bastions, which have a historic feel. Downtown’s largest and most famous park is Kadriorg. This vast area of paths, ponds, manicured gardens and fountains is centred around a Baroque palace built by

Peter the Great. ANUVAHTRA RELAXING & RECHARGING 39

Spa MADIS PALM Health spas have been drawing visitors to Estonia ever since the first seaside resorts opened in Pärnu and Haapsalu in the early 1800s. More recently Tallinn itself has been developing as a spa destination and now has over a dozen establishments offering health and beauty treatments like hot stone massages, chocolate body wraps and facials. Spas come in two varieties: Spa hotels, which offer 2- to 6-day packages that include accommodation, meals and other services along with a choice of treatments; and day spas, which offer treatments only. For both types, prior booking is essential.

Spa Hotels Kalev SPA Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel Babor Spa Aia 18 • www.kalevspa.ee Sadama 11a • www.hotels.tallink.com Narva mnt 5 • www.baborspa.ee This well-equipped spa hotel at the Located next to the Passenger Port, Shnelli Day Spa edge of Old Town sets itself apart by this spa hotel has all the latest Toompuiestee 37 • www.spalife.ee having its own, full-fledged, indoor treatments on its menu, along with water park. its unique Aqua Spa – a collection of Reval Day Spa saunas and pools. Pikk 7 • www.revaldayspa.eu Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Paldiski mnt 4 • www.meritonhotels.com Day Spas, Beauty Day Spa The city's newest spa hotel offers Salons & Nail Salons Vana-Posti 4 • www.dayspa.ee guests the perfect balance between Treating yourself to a salon visit is Wiide Päeva Spa & Salong traditional comfort and the latest an easy way to unwind and boost Wiedemanni 13-1A • www.wiidesalong.ee facilities. self-confidence. Better still, it’s Pirita TOP Spa Hotel usually much cheaper here than in www.hotels.tallink.com other countries. You’ll find a number of inviting day spas, beauty salons, A wide range of treatments and as well as specialised nail salons, spa beauty services, along with a gym and throughout the centre of Tallinn. top swimming pool, is available in this Just drop in and book a time. irita sprawling seaside facility. P hotel conference & spa tallink 40 RELAXING & RECHARGING alm P adis M Active Tallinn For a lot of people relaxation goes Boating on the Pirita River Uisuplats hand in hand with sports, boating or Kloostri 6A • www.bellmarine.ee Harju 32 • www.uisuplats.ee various ways of moving around. Here Rent a rowboat or a canoe to are some options: Premia Ice Hall explore the beautiful, marshy 3 • www.icearena.ee channels of the Pirita River. Biking Rent a bike to explore Tallinn’s paths, Ice Skating parks and seaside promenade. Indoor arenas offer skating year- round, but for skating with a view, CityBike Uus 33 • www.citybike.ee head to the outdoor Uisuplats ice rink in Old Town, which operates Hawaii Express in the colder months. Regati pst 1 • www.hawaii.ee olmer V oomas T

Tennis The Estonian climate being what it is, tennis is an indoor sport here. Phone ahead to book a court. Pirita TOP Tennisekeskus Regati pst 1 • www.toptennis.ee Ritual 84 • www.ritual.ee Yachting Renting or chartering a yacht is a great way to see Tallinn Bay, not to mention regain some perspective on life. Yacht Charter

olmer Magasini 30-3 • www.yacht.ee V oomas T RELAXING & RECHARGING 41

Horse riding Ruila Stable Ruila, • www.ruilatall.ee Tondi Maneež Tondi 30 • www.tondimaneez.ee club Riding Centre golf Paldiski mnt 135 • www.veskimetsa.ee tallinn Squash Kadrioru Health Center Golfing Narva mnt 63 • www.kadrioru.ee Estonian Golf & Country Club Reval Sport Manniva, Jõelähtme, Harju County Aia 20 • www.revalsport.ee www.egcc.ee

Ritual linno Golfest Tondi 84 • www.ritual.ee atre Suuresta, Harju County • www.golfest.ee K Tallinn Golf Club Niitvälja, Harju County www.egk-golf.ee Bowling KU:LSA:L Bowling Mere pst 6E • www.kuulsaal.ee Pirita Bowling Club Merivälja tee 5 • www.bowlingclub.ee Zelluloos Bowling Tartu mnt 80B • www.zbowling.ee Winter activities Nõmme Ski Club Vana-Mustamäe 16 Nõmme Sport Centre seikluspark Külmallika 15a • www.sportkeskus.ee mme Nõ Swimming Kalev SPA Water Park Adventure Parks Aia 18 • www.kalevspa.ee Nõmme Adventure Park Pirita TOP Spa Külmallika 15a Regati pst 1 • www.hotels.tallink.com www.nommeseikluspark.ee Viimsi SPA Karting Randvere tee 11 • www.viimsitervis.ee pa

S FK Centre top Paldiski mnt 229A • www.fkkeskus.ee irita P Saurix Indoor Kart Centre Pärnu mnt 558A • www.hobikart.ee Shooting range Männiku Jahilasketiir Trapi tee 1, Männiku, Harju County www.sporting.ee Paintball FK Centre Paldiski mnt 229A • www.fkkeskus.ee Indoor Laser Gaming Zelluloos Centre Tartu mnt 80F • www.megazone.ee Segway Super Segway Vene 3 • www.supersegway.ee adanik K ari M 42 RELAXING & RECHARGING

Sitting at the western edge of the city, is best known as the site of the sprawling , where 19th-century village life is recre- Rocca al Mare ated. But the area also holds some other interesting attractions like the , and the FK Keskus recreation centre. volmer

oomas T

Estonian Open Air Museum Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12 • www.evm.ee This museum lets you travel back in time to the rural Estonia of old. The vast, forested park is filled with thatched, 18-20th-century farm buildings, windmills, a wooden chapel and a village school, with staff demonstrating how people lived and worked in times past.

olmer Visitors can buy handicrafts and try V adanik

out the traditional food served in K ari oomas T the village tavern. M

TALL I N N Z O O

Tallinn Zoo of all ages – and spend some time The zoo happens to have one of the Paldiski mnt 145 • www.tallinnzoo.ee communing with your fellow critters. best collections of mountain goats and sheep in the world, but its real Want to get in touch with your wild Spread across an 87-hectare stars are its incredibly rare Amur side? Take a trip to Tallinn's extensive swathe of forested land, the zoo leopards; only 30 to 35 of these zoo – an enjoyable day out for visitors boasts one of Northern Europe's animals still exist worldwide. The best collections. The list of its exhibit is home to Freddie and Darla residents includes rhinos, vultures, along with their cubs who were born camels, polar bears, pythons, on April 5, 2010. For a sneak preview lions, bison and dozens of other of these cats, visit the leopard-cam species. You can visit the crocodiles on the zoo's website. and chimpanzees in the Tropical House, or make your way over to Kids will love the petting zoo, which operates

oo the Elephant House to see a pigmy here June to August, open Wed – Sun. Z hippo, a chinchilla, various snakes Group tours in English and other foreign allinn T and, of course, an elephant. languages can be arranged with prior booking. RELAXING & RECHARGING 43

If coming to Tallinn isn’t enough of an escape in itself, there are side trips you can take from here that will put you in touch with Estonian Days out nature and history. Making these trips requires a bit of planning, so consult the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre or a tour operator for help.

Lahemaa Lahemaa is a vast national park along Estonia’s north coast, about an hour’s drive from Tallinn. Locals love it for its nature and serenity – mushroom and berry picking are popular. Its main sights are the striking Palmse and Sagadi manor houses, the ancient fishing village of Altja, the wealthy ‘Captain’s Village’ of Käsmu, and Viinistu, site of the nation’s largest private art collection. lajaan A llan A

up to 31 metres, it’s one of the most & Naissaar impressive limestone cliffs in the In summer, passenger ferries make country. From here you’ll get a good regular trips to these two small islands view of Naissaar island (see above) just off the coast of Tallinn. Both have and nearby Vääna-Jõesuu, a beautiful military histories stretching back to sandy seashore. Farther along is the Tsarist Russian era and access to Keila-Joa, where you can see the them was restricted during Soviet third highest waterfall in the country times. Nowadays they’re popular and a 19th-century, Neo-Gothic for their nature, particularly quiet manor house. On the coast nearby is pine forests and secluded beaches. Laulasmaa, a beach area named after Naissaar is also known for the “singing sands.” It’s a perfect place for remnants of its military infrastructure, ukkonen P swimming in summer, not to mention as well as its working narrow

duard walking and jogging. E gauge railway.

Paldiski This coastal town 45km from Tallinn is best known as a destination for history buffs – it was a highly restricted submarine and rocket base during Soviet times, and after the Russian military left in 1994 much of it fell to ruins. But apart from being covered in crumbling barracks, the Pakri peninsula on which Paldiski sits is also worth visiting for its striking limestone cliffs and is home to some rare wildlife.

Tallinn-Paldiski Journey Taking the scenic, coastal route to Paldiski can be just as rewarding as ändmaa seeing the town itself. Your first stop M nnika

should be the Türisalu cliff. Towering A 44 SHOPPING

Thanks to the economic boom Tallinn experienced in the post-2000 years, the city’s retail sector has absolutely mushroomed. Now souvenir hunters, fashion fans and casuals browsers can shop to their hearts’ content.

Several new malls in the city centre, just a few metres outside Old Town, are best places to find the classic, international shopping experience. For more intimate, boutique-type shopping however, Old Town itself should be your destina- tion. As an added bonus, poking your way through Old Town’s courtyards and cellar shops is a great way to see some of the area’s more interesting nooks and crannies.

Viru street is by far the busiest of Old Town’s shopping streets and home to many brand-name stores. Nearby Müürivahe street is lined with local fashion and speciality boutiques. The highest concentration of souvenir shops is on Toompea hill and the south end of Pikk street. Nearly every street has something to offer though – it’s just a matter of taking the time to explore them all. SHOPPING 45 Shopping MARTTANIEL 46 SHOPPING

What to Buy? Estonian handicrafts The most uniquely Estonian souvenirs you can bring home from Tallinn are examples of traditional Estonian handicrafts – beautiful, usually functional items created by hand following centuries-old methods. Knitwear of all types is popular: colourful jumpers, scarves, hats, socks, gloves and mittens can be found in a wide variety of patterns. Linen – both for clothing and for home décor – is also widely sold, TOOMASVOLMER Kalev Chocolate Assortments of chocolates from Estonia's famous chocolate producer, Kalev, are always highly appreciated gifts. There are dozens of varieties to choose from, but look for boxes decorated with historic Tallinn ahtra

V scenes. nu A KRISTJAN MÄNDMAA CDs as are household items made from Vana Tallinn leather, stone and wood. Keep a For music lovers, bringing home a CD Estonia’s national liqueur, Vana special eye out for products made of Estonian classics (Arvo Pärt and Tallinn, is a sweet, potent drink that from juniper wood, typically butter Erkki-Sven Tüür) is a must, especially can be found in any alcohol shop. It knives, sugar bowls and the like. if the performance is by the Estonian goes down easy on its own, but is Their delicate look and strong, sweet Philharmonic Chamber Choir. also great when mixed with coffee fragrance make them great gifts. Recordings of Estonian folk music or dribbled over ice-cream. There are also make a fine addition to any Marzipan two main varieties: the original, with music collection. its rum and citrus flavour, and the This heavenly confection made from newer Vana Tallinn Cream Liqueur. sugar and almond paste has been DVDs a favourite Tallinn treat since the Any young kids on your gift list will Middle Ages. In fact, local legend love the award-winning cartoons insists it was invented in Tallinn’s by Heiki Ernits and Janno Põldma. famous Town Hall Pharmacy back Their feature films: “Tom and Fluffy,” in Hanseatic times. Nowadays “Ladybird’s Christmas,” and especially handmade marzipan figurines, “Lotte from Gadgetville” have become usually in the shape of cute, little an international hits thanks to DVDs animals, are available in larger food available in English and German.

shops. The most interesting place to iviko L buy them however is in the historic Kalev Marzipan Room on Pikk 16, where you can watch experts S hopp i ng t i ps painting the figurines by hand. Opening times: Most small shops are open from 9 or 10 a.m. to 5 or 6 p.m. on weekdays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. Department stores and malls usually stay open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., closing an hour or two earlier on Sundays. Credit and debit cards: can be used in almost any shop. Cash payments are accepted in Estonian kroons only. Haggling: Estonians rarely haggle, even in markets. They will, however, alvari

P sometimes give a small discount if you buy more of what they’re selling. nnika A SHOPPING 47

BogaPott Pikk jalg 9 • www.bogapott.ee A ceramics studio, art/design shop and café all in one.

Lühikese Jala Gallery Lühike jalg 6 • www.hot.ee/lgalerii arry B

A tourist-friendly shop selling textiles, ahtra V nu heila

S silk paintings and tapestry, ceramics A and sculpture, glass, jewellery, Antiques leather-work and hand-made Book Shops The peculiarities of Estonia’s 20th- postcards. Souvenir picture books of Tallinn century history mean there are some and Estonia, along with a wide unique finds here, from oak furniture St. Catherine's Guild selection of other books in English, to Soviet-era bric-a-brac. St. Catherine's Passage (Katariina käik) A collection of traditional craft are available at these shops. Aigrette Antiik studios where artists create and Apollo Raamatumaja Väike-Karja 4 • www.aigrette.ee sell their wares. Viru 23 , Estonia pst 9 • www.apollo.ee A wide assortment, particularly Central and well-stocked. strong in Estonian art from the 1920s Krambude Vanaturu 1 • www.oldehansa.net and 30s. Rahva Raamat Medieval shop. Viru väljak 4, Viru Centre, 3rd and 4th floor IDLA Antiik www.rahvaraamat.ee Pikk 30 • www.idla.ee Helina Tilk Rataskaevu 6 and Lühike jalg 5 Tallinn’s largest, also sells music Everything from ceramics to www.helinatilk.com and DVDs. sideboards. Household items decorated with this artist’s sweet, cartoon-like animals. Department Stores & Art, Design & Handicraft Shopping Centres At these shops you’ll find the best of Craftsmen House Establishments like these are Estonian art, past and present, as well Pikk 15 • www.folkart.ee naturally the best places to find the as traditional Estonian handicrafts. A variety of authentic Estonian largest selections in the least amount handicrafts. Art Salon Allee of time, particularly in regard to fashion, shoes and speciality items. Pikk 34 • www.allee.ee Estonian Handicraft House Classics of Estonian art. Pikk 22 • www.folkart.ee Rotermanni Kaubamaja A variety of authentic Estonian (The Rotermann Centre) Navitrolla Gallery handicrafts. Rotermanni 5 / Roseni 10 Sulevimägi 1 • www.navitrolla.ee www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee Cute, surreal works – including Doll Shop A new, innovatively designed paintings, T-shirts and postcards – Raekoja plats 18 shopping complex just outside by one of the nation’s most A handicraft shop specialising Old Town. renowned artists. in dolls and toys. Stockmann Liivalaia 53 • www.stockmann.ee An extensive, multi-storey branch of ’s most famous department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja Gonsiori 2 • www.kaubamaja.ee Estonia’s main department store; the widest array of goods.

Viru Keskus (Viru Centre) Viru väljak 4 • www.virukeskus.com The largest, busiest shopping mall in the downtown area.

Solaris Centre Estonia pst 9 • www.solaris.ee A newly-built mall, complete with cinema, attached to the city's largest concert hall. alm P adis M 48 SHOPPING

Home Design Estonian-designed housewares have been making a splash on the international stage for their fresh, modern look. In addition to checking out the venues listed below, anyone shopping for home décor can also visit Maakri street, where several design boutiques are clustered.

Nu Nordik Vabaduse väljak 8 • www.nunordik.ee Fresh, offbeat clothing, fashion accessories and home décor. huik 4 Room Pärnu mnt 142 • www.4room.ee tomas An Estonian lights producing company · canpix with a unique style and philosophy. S Friendly and functional pieces. A Taste of Estonia Markets Shops throughout the city sell There are a few outdoor markets Estonia’s famous liqueur, Vana Tallinn, in and around Old Town selling as well as other national drinks like handicrafts, most notably the knit Viru Valge and vodkas. If market along the Town Wall on you’re looking for something on the Müürivahe street. Elsewhere in the sweet side, pick up confections at city large outdoor markets cater to these shops: locals and are interesting places to browse and explore, provided you Kalev Marzipan Room keep an eye out for pickpockets. Pikk 16 Handmade marzipan figurines. Central Market Keldrimäe 9 • www.keskturg.ee Anneli Viik’s Handmade Food and cheap clothes. Chocolates Café Balti Jaam Market

onton Pikk 30 • www.anneliviik.ee Kopli 1 • www.jaamaturg.ee · M Handmade chocolates.

alm A sprawling market behind the train P

adis station selling just about everything.

M Kalev's Rotermann Chocolate Shop and Workshop Nõmme Market Estonian Fashion Roseni 7 • www.kalev.eu Turu plats 8/ Piiri 6 • www.nommeturg.ee Estonia is home to an active fashion Buy sweets, make your own A lively, recently renovated market on industry and produces several chocolates and paint marzipan the outskirts of the city. commercial labels, each with a figurines. personality of its own. Look for Rotermann Market clothing brands like Rotermann Centre • www.rotermannikvartal.ee Mosaic (www.mosaic.ee), Music Food and craft market operating Monton (www.monton.ee) and In addition to the shops listed below, in the Rotermann Centre's central Bastion (www.bastion.ee), CDs of Estonian music can be found square in warmer months. Christmas Sangar (www.sangar.ee) in the in Tallinna Kaubamaja and market in December. Viru Centre and in the Kaubamaja Stockmann department stores. department store. Lasering Some successful designers also have Viru väljak 4, Viru Centre • www.lasering.ee their own boutiques in Old Town: Rahva Raamat Ivo Nikkolo Viru väljak 4, Viru Centre Suur-Karja 14 • www.ivonikkolo.ee www.rahvaraamat.ee Sharp-looking clothing by the nation’s best-established designer. Toys & Games Tallinna Kaubamaja Reet Aus Boutique department store Pikk 41 • www.reetaus.com Gonsiori 2 • www.kaubamaja.ee

High quality fashion with an eichsner

The largest selection of toys, puzzles M eco-friendly emphasis. and games in the downtown area. ndreas A PRACTICAL INFORMATION 49

Sightseeing Tours itytour C

A variety of guided tours are available in Tallinn, everything from ghost walks to pub crawls. Drop by the Tourist Information Centre for a complete list. Here are some examples: Audio Guide Tour on iPod www.euroaudioguide.com Set your own pace as you’re taken on a detailed, self-guided Practical tour of Old Town, complete with stories, legends and jokes. You can rent the iPod from the Tourist Information Centre and from some hotels. Tours are available in English, Finnish, French, German, Russian and Estonian. Tallinn’s Old Town Tour with the AudioGuide www.audioguide.ee The specialised audioguide service provides fascinating narrated information on the key sights of Old Town. Tours are available in English, German, Russian, Finnish, Swedish, and Estonian. Hop-on Hop-off City Tours www.citytour.ee Information Red double-decker buses make a circuit around the city’s main attractions, allowing you to hop off where you want, see the sights, and hop back on a later bus. Buses run on three different routes, and audio commentary is available in 10 languages. Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour www.travel2baltics.com This 2.5-hour tour is a good way to orientate yourself to the city. It starts out by bus, introducing you to the most interesting districts of central Tallinn, then continues on foot through Old Town. Welcome to Tallinn by bike www.citybike.ee Small groups are taken on a 2-hour cycle trip around Tallinn’s beauty spots, seeing places that most tourists wouldn’t find. Bike rental, safety equipment and a soft drink are all included in the tour price. TALLINNA SADAM 50 PRACTICAL INFORMATION

a behind-the-scenes look at the theatre, outlining its history and displaying dozens oplimets K of puppets. arel K Museum Ships of the Estonian Maritime Museum Museums & Attractions Küti 15A • www.meremuuseum.ee AHHAA Science Centre Estonian Museum of Natural History Located in the Seaplane Harbour. Visitors Vabaduse väljak • www.ahhaa.ee Lai 29 A • www.loodusmuuseum.ee tour the museum’s collection of ships A modern, hands-on activity centre de- Taxidermied animals and other displays including the British-built submarine Lembit signed to get young people interested in on the nation’s flora and fauna. (1936), and Europe’s largest steam-powered science. icebreaker, the Suur Tõll (1914). Estonian Open Air Museum A. H. Tammsaare Museum Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12 • www.evm.ee Niguliste Museum Koidula 12 A • www.linnamuuseum.ee An extensive park where traditional Niguliste 3 • www.ekm.ee A chronicle of the life and works of Estonia’s Estonian village life is recreated. Exhibits in- The 13th-century church houses a mu- greatest writer, set in his 1930s home. clude numerous thatched, 18-20th-century seum dedicated to church art, displaying farm buildings, windmills, a village school Medieval altarpieces and Tallinn’s most Adamson-Eric Museum and a tavern. famous painting, Bernt Notke’s Danse Lühike jalg 3 • www.ekm.ee Macabre (Dance with Death). Works by the venerated Estonian artist Estonian Theatre and Music Museum Adamson-Eric (1902-1968). Müürivahe 12 • www.tmm.ee Oleviste Church Tower Antique instruments and hand-cranked, Lai 50 • www.oleviste.ee St. John's Almshouse Museum 19th-century music machines. Open: 1.04-31.10 Tartu mnt • www.linnamuuseum.ee Panoramic views from atop Old Town's A pavilion set up over the ruins of a historic Kadriorg Palace – Kadriorg Art Museum tallest tower. almshouse, which was active from 1237 un- Weizenbergi 37 • www.ekm.ee til the late-1960s. Open by appointment only. The foreign art branch of the Art Peter the Great’s Cottage Museum of Estonia, housed in Peter Mäekalda 2 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Children’s Museum the Great’s Baroque palace (1718). A small house in Kadriorg where Russian Kotzebue 16 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Tsar Peter the Great lived during his visits Hundreds of dolls, teddy bears and Kiek in de Kök to Tallinn in the early 18th century. other toys. Komandandi tee 2 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Tallinn’s largest Medieval defense tower. St. Bridget's Convent Dominican Monastery Claustrum Displays cover military history from the 13th Kloostri tee 9 • www.piritaklooster.ee Müürivahe 33 • www.mauritanum.edu.ee to the 18th centuries, including developments The fascinating ruins of a 15th-century The remaining inner chambers of St. in the town’s fortifications. Also serves as ac- convent, destroyed in 1577. Catherine’s Monastery, established 1246. cess point for Toompea's hidden tunnels. Tallinn City Museum E. Vilde Museum Kumu Art Museum Vene 17 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Roheline Aas 3 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Weizenbergi 34/ Valge 1 • www.ekm.ee A modern and well-presented chronicle Dedicated to one of Estonia's principle writ- The nation’s premier art museum, housed of Tallinn history. ers, Eduard Vilde (1865-1933). in an immense, high-tech facility. Tallinn Botanic Garden Epping Tower Miia-Milla-Manda Museum Kloostrimetsa tee 52 • www.tba.ee Laboratooriumi 31 • www.epping.ee L.Koidula 21C • www.linnamuuseum.ee Over 4,500 plant varieties on display in ex- A renovated, 15th-century tower with in- A kid-oriented museum in Kadriorg park tensive gardens and modern greenhouses. teractive displays on Tallinn’s fortifications, offering a variety of activities for 3- to Medieval weapons and armour. Tallinn Science and Technology Centre 11-year-olds. Põhja pst 29 • www.energiakeskus.ee Estonian Health Care Museum Mikkel Museum A fun, hands-on science museum where Lai 30 • www.tervishoiumuuseum.ee Weizenbergi 28 • www.ekm.ee kids learn about different aspects of physics A school-oriented museum showing in- An extensive collection of antique Chinese and space through interactive displays. sights into health and physiology. porcelain, Flemish and Dutch paintings Tallinn’s Town Hall Tower Estonian History Museum – and Italian engravings; across from the Raekoja plats 1 • www.tallinn.ee/raekoda Maarjamäe Palace Kadriorg Palace. Open: 1.06-31.08 Pirita tee 56 • www.eam.ee The Town Hall's 64-metre bell tower Covers developments from the 19th century Mine Museum Uus 37 • www.meremuuseum.ee offers a bird's eye view of Old Town. to the first Estonian Republic, World War II and the 1950s. The Estonian Maritime Museum’s collection Tallinn Zoo of sea mines. Open by appointment only. Paldiski mnt 145 • www.tallinnzoo.ee Estonian Maritime Museum One of the largest zoological collections in Pikk 70 • www.meremuuseum.ee Museum of Estonian Architecture Northern Europe. Includes various habitats, Extensive displays on Estonia’s sea- Ahtri 2 • www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee aquariums and a petting zoo for kids. faring history, housed in the historic Estonian architectural development Fat Margaret's cannon tower. through the ages. Town Prison - Museum of Photography Raekoja 4/6 • www.linnamuuseum.ee Estonian Museum of Museum of Occupations The history of photography in Estonia, Applied Art and Design Toompea 8 • www.okupatsioon.ee housed in the Town Council’s former prison. Lai 17 • www.etdm.ee Dedicated to the 1940 - 1991 time period Works in glass, ceramics, textile, leather, when Estonia suffered a German and Soviet Town Wall metalwork and jewellery, displayed in occupation. Gümnaasiumi 3 the historic Old Town granary. Museum of Puppet Arts (NUKU) Three defense towers and the only publicly Lai 1 / Nunne 8 • www.nuku.ee accessible section of the Town Wall. This fun, high-tech museum gives visitors PRACTICAL INFORMATION 51

⋆ lajaan A ahtra V llan nu A A Facts about Tallinn

Area of Tallinn – 159.2 km2 Travel Information Citizens of countries NOT mentioned (Estonia 45,227 km2). above require a visa to enter Estonia. Sea coast – 46 km Time Visitors arriving in Estonia with a visa Land border – 59 km Estonia is in the Eastern European must have a national passport valid Time Zone: GMT + 2 hours. at least 3 months after their planned Climate departure from Estonia. In summer: GMT + 3 hours. The climate in Tallinn is characterised Children aged 7 to 15 years must have by a fairly cold winter, a cool spring Visa Regulations with little precipitation, a moderately their own passport when travelling Estonia is part of the Schengen visa warm summer and a long and to Estonia or, if they are registered in free area. Passengers arriving from rainy autumn. However, some their parent’s passport, must have other Schengen countries won’t go summers have weeks at a stretch their photo next to the name. Children through customs and immigration of temperatures around +30°C, and under 7 years do not need to have a checks at the border, but are a warm, sunny summer can keep photo if they are registered in their still required to carry valid travel autumn at bay until mid-October. parents’ passports. Persons above documents, either a passport or, in 15 years must have a separate travel Average temperature in July: +16.7°C the case of EU citizens, a national ID document with photo. card. Average temperature in February: -4°C For more specific information, Anyone arriving from outside the please contact your nearest Estonian Weather forecast on the Internet: Schengen zone will be required to consulate or embassy, or check the www.weather.ee/tallinn show those same documents at the Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ Population border. website, www.mfa.ee. The population of Tallinn is 403,547 Nationals of EU and EEA member (01.09.2008). Customs states can freely enter Estonia. The In order to avoid misunderstandings it required travel document is a national Nationalities: Estonian 52.3%, Russian is recommended that you learn about ID card or a passport. 38.5%, Ukrainian 3.9%, other 5.3%. the requirements of your country of destination before you travel and ask Language In addition, nationals of the following countries do not need visa to enter for any necessary information from Estonia’s official language is Estonian. Estonia, and can stay for up to 90 local customs authorities. Russian, English and Finnish are also days in any 6-month period: Andorra, understood and widely spoken. You can get further information from Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Brunei, www.customs.ee, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, Religion e-mail: [email protected] El Salvador, Guatemala, Holy See, The largest denomination is Lutheran phone: +372 880 0814. Honduras, Hong Kong, Israel, Japan, (30%), followed by Russian Orthodox Macao, Malaysia, Mexico, Monaco, (28%) and Catholic (3%). However, only Currency & Exchange New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, about 20% of Estonians practice any The national currency of Estonia Paraguay, San Marino, Singapore, religion. is called the kroon. The kroon is South Korea, USA, Uruguay, abbreviated as EEK. The smaller unit is Venezuela. The required travel called the sent, 1 kroon = 100 sents. document for entry is a valid passport. 52 PRACTICAL INFORMATION ändmaa uul M T rhiiv ristjan oomas K A T

The kroon is pegged to the euro Internet Public holidays, 2010 at 1 EUR = appr. 15.65 EEK. Foreign Public Internet access points have 1 January New Year’s Day currencies can be easily exchanged in been set up all over Estonia. They banks and exchange offices. are located in local libraries and post 24 February Independence Day, offices. There are also hundreds of the anniversary Most larger hotels, stores and free wireless Internet zones around of the declaration restaurants accept Visa, MasterCard, the country, many of them in rather founding the Republic Eurocard, Diners Club and American unexpected places – beaches, city of Estonia (1918). Express; however, it is advisable to squares, stadiums, and concert halls. carry some Estonian kroons with you. 2 April Good Friday Most cafés and pubs in downtown Traveller’s cheques can be exchanged Tallinn have free wireless access. 4 April Easter Sunday in most banks but are less likely to be accepted in shops. Eurocheque is Post Offices 1 May Spring Day The Tallinn Central Post Office the most widely accepted traveller’s 23 May Whitsunday cheque, but American Express and is located in the city centre, at Thomas Cook are also accepted. Narva mnt 1, and is open Mon-Fri 23 June Victory Day 8.00-20.00, Sat 9.00-17.00, ph. +372 Banks are plentiful and easy to find 661 6616, [email protected], www.post.ee. 24 June St. John’s Day in Tallinn. Most are open from 9:00 (Midsummer) to 18:00 on weekdays, while some The Toompea Post Office is located in offices are also open on Saturday the Old Town, at Lossi plats 4, and is 20 August Day of Restoration mornings. All banks offer currency open Mon-Fri 9.00-17.00. of Independence, exchange services. Exchange offices Estonia regained can also be found in larger hotels, the Medical Services independence from airport, harbour, railroad station and No vaccinations or health certificates the Soviet Union major shopping centres. are required for entry into Estonia. A (1991). health insurance policy is optional. 24 December Christmas Eve Communications Pharmacies are usually open To call Tallinn from abroad, dial your 25 December Christmas Day from 10:00-19:00, but one stays international access code and 372 open all night: Tõnismäe Apteek, 26 December Boxing Day for Estonia and then the telephone Tõnismägi 5, ph: +372 644 2282. number. Standard medication is available in all Within Estonia, you can make local pharmacies. and international calls from any In case of accident or illness, call for phone, including card-operated an ambulance free of charge from any public payphones. Telephone cards phone: 112. costing 50 and 100 EEK are sold at newsstands and post offices. To call Police abroad, dial 00 and the country code. Call free of charge from any phone: The same GSM mobile phones used 110. throughout Europe will also work in Estonia; please check with your Power Supply operator for roaming charges and The current is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz. compatibility. European-style two-pin plugs are used. adanik K ari M PRACTICAL INFORMATION 53 volmer

port canpix oomas allinn T S T Arrival By Air Domestic flights Passenger information at the harbour: Flights from Tallinn to Kuressaare are ph. +372 631 8550 • www.portoftallinn.com operated by : Located just 4 km from the Tallinn A-terminal serves Viking Line and Estonian Air City centre, the newly-refurbished Eckerö Line ferries to Helsinki. ph. +372 640 1160 • www.estonian-air.ee Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport provides B-terminal serves Viking Line and excellent facilities and a wide variety Flights from Tallinn to Kärdla are Eckerö Line ferries from Helsinki. of services to meet the demands of all operated by : its customers. Avies D-terminal serves Tallink’s high- speed vessels and ferries to/from Free Wi-Fi is available throughout ph. +372 605 8022 • www.avies.ee Helsinki, and Tallink ferries to/from the passenger terminal. Stockholm. By Sea Information at the airport For Estonia's neighbours, sea travel Linnahall terminal serves Linda An information desk operates in the is the most widely-used method of Line’s high-speed vessels to/from airport’s departure hall. It opens 2 reaching Tallinn, with over 7 million Helsinki hours before the first flight of the day passengers making their way through and closes after the last arriving flight. the each year. The vast From the harbour to the city ph. +372 605 8888 • fax +372 605 8433 majority of them come via the Tallinn- Bus no. 2 stops in front of A- and www.tallinn-airport.ee Helsinki sea-lane, one of the busiest D-terminals. Tickets cost 20 EEK. A taxi international passenger routes in from the port to other locations in the From the airport to the city the world. Passengers arrive at the city centre costs about 75 EEK. Because Bus no. 2 leaves the airport for the modern and well-equipped Old City the harbour is so central, many city centre and port every 20-30 Harbour or the adjacent Linnahall, arriving passengers prefer to walk. minutes, and operates from 7 a.m. both located in the city centre. until midnight. The price is 20 EEK; Passenger lines tickets can be bought from the Main routes To Helsinki driver. The airport bus stop can be Ferries cross the be- found in front of the terminal of tween Tallinn and Helsinki several Ferries arrivals. The downtown bus stop is times a day, covering the distance in Eckerö Line located on Laikmaa Street, between two to four hours, depending on the ph. +372 664 6000 • www.eckeroline.ee the Tallink Hotel and the large Viru ship. From late spring to late autumn, Centre, attached to the Sokos Hotel high-speed vessels also operate on Tallink Viru. the route, reducing travel time to just ph. +372 640 9808 • www.tallink.ee A taxi stand can also be found just an hour and a half. Ferries between Viking Line outside the arrivals' terminal. The Tallinn and Stockholm depart every ph. 372 666 3966 • www.vikingline.ee fare from the airport to the city evening, with the trip taking approxi- High-Speed vessels centre is about 100 EEK. mately 15 hours. LindaLine Express International flights Terminals ph. +372 699 9333 • www.lindaline.ee The latest information about The Old City Harbour's passenger To Stockholm international flights and terminals, lettered A through D, as well companies can be found at: as the Linnahall, are located a short Tallink www.tallinn-airport.ee distance from the Medieval Old Town. ph. +372 640 9808 • www.tallink.ee 54 PRACTICAL INFORMATION · SCANPIX angovits port

L rhiiv eeter allinn A P T

Cruises By Bus Most of the cruise lines touring International bus lines offer bus in Northern Europe now include connections from many European Tallinn in their itineraries, and the In the cities. city receives over 300 calls per cruise season – a truly remarkable Eurolines achievement by European ph. +372 680 0909 • www.eurolines.ee standards. The Old City Harbour City can accommodate cruise vessels Ecolines of over 300m in length. For further ph. +372 614 3600 • www.ecolines.ee Public Transport information: www.portoftallinn.ee. Hansabuss Tallinn also participates in the Cruise ph. + 372 627 9080 • www.hansabuss.ee Buses, trolleys, trams Baltic network: Buses, trolleys and trams operate www.cruisebaltic.com. Tallinn Central Bus Station regularly from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. All take the same types of tickets, which Yachts Lastekodu 46 • ph. +372 12550 International bus lines, as well as can be purchased at newsstands for Pirita Yacht Harbour most lines connecting Tallinn with 15 EEK or from the driver for 25 EEK. (59°28,2’ N 24°49,2’ E, VHF 16, depth other cities in Estonia, arrive at and You can also buy a 10-ticket package 2,8m, 250 quay spots) is located just 5 depart from Tallinn’s Central Bus for 90 EEK. kilometres from the city centre. Station, located in the city centre. Tallinn Card holders can use public transport for free while their card is Pirita Harbour From the bus station to the city valid. ph. +372 639 8980 • www.piritatop.ee Take tram nr. 2 or 4, or bus nr. 17A, 23 or 23A. A taxi from the bus station to Other ticket options include 1- and the city centre costs about 80 EEK. 2-hour tickets as well as 1- and 3-day By Rail tickets. These can only be bought at International rail connections newsstands, not from the driver. between Tallinn and Moscow are A 1-hour ticket costs 16 EEK and a offered by AS GoRail. 2-hour ticket 21 EEK. A day ticket (24 h) costs 55 EEK and a 3-day (72 h) AS GoRail ticket 95 EEK. Electronic devices for ph. +372 631 0043 • fax +372 615 6720 registering these tickets can be found www..ee near the second door of the vehicle and will print the time and date of From the railway station to the city validity on the ticket. The railway station is located just outside the northern edge of Old Anyone over 65 years old, no matter Town, not far from the harbour. what country they come from, can Take tram no. 1 or 2, or go by foot ride Tallinn’s public transportation through the underground passage for free. If a ticket inspector comes towards the Old Town, about 200 on board, present a personal ID metres away. document or pension certificate to prove your age. A separate system of minivans, which follow fixed routes, also operates in Tallinn. Pay the driver as you get in. rhiiv A PRACTICAL INFORMATION 55

Tourist Information Centres

Tallinn Tourist Information Centres are located in the centre of the Old Town and in the shopping centre. The centres provide information on accommodation, cultural events, sights, sightseeing tours, transportation, catering, shopping, leisure facilities, sporting events, sports facilities, conference facilities, certified tour guides, oomse T Tallinn’s environs and general tourist rhiiv iine L A information about the rest of Estonia.

Taxis At the end of the ride Tallinn Tourist Information Centre Taxi stands are located at major The driver is not allowed to ask for in Old Town intersections and in front of larger more than what is on the meter. hotels. Passengers can choose from The driver must be paid in Estonian Kullassepa 4 / Niguliste 2, 10146 Tallinn, Estonia any of the available taxis at a taxi kroons. Ask the taxi driver for a ph. +372 645 7777 • fax +372 645 7778 [email protected] • www.tourism.tallinn.ee stand. Taxis can be also ordered by receipt from the meter’s printer. If phone or hailed on the street. the meter or printer is out of order, At the I-Centre: the driver should not be in service The price list for taxi services is • the staff will answer your questions and you have the right to refuse to (also by phone, fax, post or e-mail); determined by the taxi operator pay the fare. and includes the flag fare, the per- • you can order a professional kilometre charge and the waiting To lodge complaints or make tour guide; charge. suggestions, contact: • you can buy publications about Tallinn and Estonia; Before getting in Tallinn Transport Department’s • you can buy a Tallinn Card. Be sure you understand the Taxi Commission: approximate cost of the trip. Prices ph. +372 640 4991 • [email protected], The I-Centre is open: are not uniform; taxi operators can City Advice Telephone 1 May – 30 June set their own rates. Take a close ph. 1345 (24-hour hotline) Mon-Fri 9:00 – 19:00 look at the yellow price list, which is Sat-Sun 10:00 – 17:00 posted on the right side rear door. 1 July – 31 August The rates: Mon-Fri 9:00 – 20:00 1. the base fare (usually 40 - 70 EEK); Sat-Sun 10:00– 18:00 2. the waiting charge, used only 1 September – 30 September when the taxi is actually standing Mon-Fri 9:00 – 18:00 (usually 150 - 300 EEK/hr); Sat-Sun 10:00 –17:00 ahtra V

3. the per-kilometre charges: a nu 1 October – 30 April A daytime charge used from 6 a.m. to Mon-Fri 9:00 – 17:00 11 p.m., and a nighttime charge used Sat 10:00 – 15:00, Sun closed from 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. (both usually By Car Closed on public holidays (see pg 52) 9 - 15 EEK/km). Parking Parking on streets in the city centre, Anything much more than these is Tallinn Tourist Information Centre considered high. the Old Town and the Pirita area must be paid for. Nearly all locals in Viru Keskus shopping centre Make sure the taxi driver holds an simply pay for their parking via SMS Viru väljak 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia operator’s card – a white plastic message, but newcomers should ph. + 372 610 1557 / +372 610 1558 card with the driver’s photo and follow these guidelines: fax +372 610 1559 name, attached to the middle of the [email protected] • www.tourism.tallinn.ee dashboard. Cars should display a sign (usually a clock) on their dashboards indicating At the I-Centre: Starting out the time they parked. The first 15 • the staff will answer to your questions Make sure the taxi’s meter is turned minutes of parking is free. You can (also by phone, fax, or e-mail) purchase a parking ticket from a on. It is illegal for the driver to smoke • you can buy a Tallinn Card or to allow others to smoke in street-side machine. In some areas, the taxi. tickets are sold by parking guards. The I-Centre is open daily 9:00 - 21:00 Closed December 25. 56 DISCOVERPRACTICAL TALLINNINFORMATION hotel hotel

sisters sisters otov

K ein R three three

Travellers with Reduced Mobility Although there is still a lot of Accommodation work to be done to make Tallinn more accessible to all its visitors, Accommodation Description of accommodation types: improvements are being made. The A wide range of accommodation is Estonian Union Of Persons With available in Tallinn, and the number Hotel - an establishment of at least Mobility Impairment has compiled of choices grows yearly. Options 10 rooms that corresponds to high a list of recommended routes, range from upmarket business hotels standards and offers dining service accommodation, etc. for travellers to budget sleepovers; from historic, (restaurant). with reduced mobility (including Old Town settings to plush, brand- Guesthouse - an establishment of wheelchair users). It can be found at new buildings in prime locations. at least 5 rooms, which offers dining www.tourism.tallinn.ee. There are also plenty of secluded service. establishments on the outskirts of Hostel - a simple establishment for holiday, sport or study visitors, which H E LPF U L P H R AS E S town. Registered accommodation in Tallinn is high quality, since the offers dining or cooking facilities. minimum standards here are more Guest apartment - an establishment Hello --- Tere stringent than the European average. with food-preparing facilities, which Goodbye --- Nägemist Advance booking directly from is rented out in entirety. accommodation establishment or Bed & Breakfast - accommodation Please --- Palun through a travel agency is essential service at a house, apartment or private farm, which includes Thank you --- Tänan / aitäh for the busy period of May to September, but it is also strongly breakfast. Excuse me / sorry --- Vabandust recommended at any time of year. Camping site - an establishment providing limited accommodation Yes --- Jah Nearly all hotels accept major credit service, that has cottages and/ cards. Rates are quoted per room, or enclosed areas for tents and/or No --- Ei not per person, and as a rule prices caravans, parking lot and cooking Help! --- Appi! include breakfast and tax. facilities.

Push --- Lükka Price Range: Pull --- Tõmba A: up to 250 EEK – Location Cheers! --- Terviseks! B: 251 - 600 EEK – Distance from Airport Bon appétit! --- Head isu! – Distance from Port How much? --- Kui palju? C: 601 - 1000 EEK

How much does it cost? --- D: 1001 - 1400 EEK – Number of Rooms Kui palju see maksab? E: 1401 - 2000 EEK – Number of Rooms Where is...? --- Kus on/asub...? for Handicapped

What's your name? --- F: 2001 - 3000 EEK – Number of Beds Mis Su nimi on? G: over 3000 EEK – Price Range My name is ... --- Minu nimi on... *Check for official websites for up to date price information. ACCOMMODATION 57

Hotels

Baltic Hotel Imperial**** • Nunne 14 Old Town 6 1,5 32 52 F/G ph +372 627 4800 • fax +372 627 4801 [email protected] www.baltichotelgroup.com

Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru • Viru 11 Old Town 6 1,5 82 140 E/F/ ph +372 669 1500 • fax +372 669 1501 G [email protected] www.baltichotelgroup.com

Barons • Suur-Karja 7 / Väike -Karja 2 Old Town 6 1,5 33 58 F/G ph +372 699 9700 • fax +372 699 9718 [email protected] • www.barons.ee

Bern • Aia 10 Old Town 6 50 92 D/E ph +372 680 6630 • fax +372 680 6631 [email protected] • www.bern.ee

Braavo • Aia 20 Old Town 6 29 68 D/E ph +372 699 9777 • fax +372 641 2317 [email protected] • www.braavo.ee

City Hotel Portus • Uus-Sadama 23 City Centre 6 0,2 107 250 D/E ph +372 680 6600 • fax +372 680 6601 [email protected] • www.portus.ee

City Hotel Tallinn by Uniquestay • Paldiski mnt 3 City Centre 6 2 17 34 C/D ph +372 660 0700 • fax +372 661 6176 [email protected] www.uniquestay.com

Clarion Hotel Euroopa **** • Paadi 5 City Centre 4,5 0 185 370 E/F/ ph +372 669 9777 • fax +372 6699 770 G [email protected] • www.euroopa.ee

Domina Inn City • Vana-Posti 11/13 Old Town 6 1,5 68 2 104 F ph +372 681 3900 • fax +372 681 3901 [email protected] • www.dominahotels.com

Domina Inn • Põhja pst 23 City Centre 6 1 152 2 304 F ph +372 614 0900 • fax +372 614 0901 [email protected] www.dominahotels.com

Dzingel • Männiku tee 89 Nõmme 7 7 270 2 520 C/D/ ph +372 610 5201 • fax +372 610 5245 E [email protected] • www.dzingel.ee

Ecoland • Randvere tee 115 Pirita 12 9 35 1 70 C/D/ ph +372 605 1999 • fax +372 605 1998 F [email protected] • www.ecoland.ee

GoHotel Shnelli • Toompuiestee 37 City Centre 6 1,5 124 2 244 C/E ph +372 631 0102 • fax +372 631 0107 [email protected] • www.gohotels.ee

Hotel G9 • Gonsiori 9 City Centre 5 1,5 22 44 B/C/ ph +372 626 7100 • fax +372 626 7132 D [email protected] • www.hotelg9.ee 58 ACCOMMODATION

Hotel Rocca al Mare • Lillevälja 2 Haabersti 36 71 D/E/ ph +372 664 5950 G [email protected] • www.roccahotels.ee

Kalev SPA Hotel • Aia 18 Old Town 6 100 3 200 E/F/ ph +372 649 3300 • fax +372 649 3301 G [email protected] • www.kalevspa.ee

Kolm Õde / The Three Sisters***** • Pikk 71/Tolli 2 Old Town 6 0,5 23 46 G ph +372 630 6300 • fax +372 630 6301 [email protected] www.threesistershotel.com

L’ Ermitage • Toompuiestee 19 City Centre 6 3 91 1 181 E/F/ ph +372 699 6400 • fax +372 699 6401 G [email protected] • www.lermitagehotel.ee

Lilleküla • Luha 18B 5 3 31 60 C ph +372 627 1120 • fax +372 648 1333 [email protected] • www.lillekulahotel.ee

Merchant’s House Hotel • Dunkri 4/6 Old Town 37 70 E/G ph +372 697 7500 • fax +372 697 7501 [email protected] www.merchantshousehotel.com

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa • Paldiski mnt 4 City Centre 6 2 465 7 930 F/G ph +372 667 7111 • fax +372 667 7001 [email protected] www.meritonhotels.com

Meriton Old Town Hotel • Lai 49 Old Town 6 0,7 41 79 D/F/ ph +372 667 7111 • fax +372 667 7001 G [email protected] www.meritonhotels.com

Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel • Pikk 29 / Lai 24 Old Town 7 1 50 1 100 D/E ph +372 667 7111 • fax +372 667 7001 [email protected] www.meritonhotels.com

Metropol • Roseni 13 City Centre 6 0,5 149 2 298 E/F ph +372 667 4500 • fax +372 667 4600 [email protected] • www.metropol.ee

Nepi • Nepi 10 Kristiine 6 4 10 16 B/C/ ph +372 655 1665 • fax +372 655 1664 D [email protected] • www.nepihotell.ee

Nordic Hotel Forum • Viru väljak 3 City Centre 5 1 267 534 D/E/ ph +372 622 2900 • fax +372 622 2901 F [email protected] • www.nordichotels.eu

Old Town Maestro’s • Suur-Karja 10 Old Town 6 1,5 23 46 D/E/ ph +372 626 2000 • fax +372 631 3333 F [email protected] • www.maestrohotel.ee

Oru Hotel*** • Narva mnt 120B City Centre 6 3,5 51 1 86 D/E/ ph +372 603 3300 • fax +372 601 2600 F/G [email protected] • www.oruhotel.ee ACCOMMODATION 59

Pirita Top Spa Hotel • Regati pst 1 Pirita 7 4 267 4 497 C/D/ ph +372 639 8600 / +372 639 8822 • fax +372 639 8821 E/F [email protected] • www.hotels.tallink.com

Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn • Rävala pst 3 City Centre 5 1,5 280 4 560 F ph +372 682 3000 • fax +372 682 3001 [email protected] www.radissonblu.com

Reval Hotel Central*** • Narva mnt 7C City Centre 5,5 0,5 245 2 490 D/E ph +372 633 9800 • fax +372 633 9900 [email protected] www.revalhotels.com

Reval Hotel Olympia**** • Liivalaia 33 City Centre 3,5 2 390 1 688 F/G ph +372 631 5333 • fax +372 631 5325 [email protected] www.revalhotels.com

Reval Park Hotel & Casino **** City Centre 5 3 121 2 218 E/F/ Fr. R. Kreutzwaldi 23 G ph +372 630 5305 • fax +372 630 5315 [email protected] • www.revalhotels.com

Savoy Boutique Hotel • Suur-Karja 17/19 Old Town 6 2 43 1 75 F/G ph +372 680 6688 • fax +372 680 6689 [email protected] • www.savoyhotel.ee

Scandic Palace • Vabaduse väljak 3 City Centre 6 2 86 2 148 E/G ph +372 640 7300 • fax +372 640 7288 [email protected] • www.scandic-hotels.ee

Schlössle***** • Pühavaimu 13/15 Old Town 6 1 23 42 F/G ph +372 699 7700 • fax +372 699 7777 [email protected] www.schlossle-hotels.com

Skane • Kopli 2C City Centre 6 1,5 38 67 C/D ph +372 667 8300 • fax +372 667 8301 [email protected] • www.hotelskane.eu

Sokos Hotel Viru • Viru väljak 4 City Centre 6 1 516 3 1020 E ph +372 680 9300 • fax +372 680 9236 [email protected] • www.viru.ee

St Olav • Lai 5 Old Town 6 78 150 D/E/ ph +372 616 1180 • fax +372 616 1181 G [email protected] • www.olav.ee

St. Barbara • Roosikrantsi 2A City Centre 6 2 53 104 E ph +372 640 0040 • fax +372 640 0041 [email protected] • www.stbarbara.ee

St. Petersbourg**** • Rataskaevu 7 Old Town 6 1,5 27 49 G ph +372 628 6500 • fax +372 628 6565 [email protected] www.schlossle-hotels.com 60 ACCOMMODATION

Stroomi** • Randla 11 Põhja-Tallinn 9 5 137 0 250 B/C/ ph +372 630 4200 • fax +372 630 4500 D/E [email protected] • www.stroomi.ee

Susi*** • Peterburi tee 48 Lasnamäe 3 7 101 2 202 C/D/ ph +372 630 3300 • fax +372 630 3400 E/F [email protected] • www.susi.ee

Swissotel Tallinn • Tornimäe 3 City Centre 5 1,5 238 505 F ph +372 624 0000 • fax +372 624 0001 [email protected] www.swissotel.com/tallinn

Tallink City Hotel • A. Laikmaa 5 City Centre 6 1 332 2 664 F/G ph +372 630 1000 • fax +372 630 1010 [email protected] • www.hotels.tallink.com

Tallink Express Hotel • Sadama 1 City Centre 6 0,3 163 2 326 D ph +372 667 8700 • fax +372 667 8800 [email protected] • www.hotels.tallink.com

Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel • Sadama 11a City Centre 5 0 275 580 F/G ph +372 630 0808 [email protected] • www.hotels.tallink.com

Tatari 53 • Tatari 53 City Centre 5 2,5 36 64 C/D ph +372 640 5150 • fax +372 640 5151 [email protected] • www.tatari53.ee

Telegraaf ***** • Vene 9 Old Town 5 1 86 162 F/G ph +372 600 0600 • fax +372 6000 601 [email protected]• www.telegraafhotel.com

Tähetorni *** • Tähetorni 16 Nõmme 11 10 36 63 C/D/ ph +372 677 9100 • fax +372 677 9096 F [email protected] • www.thotell.ee

Uniquestay Mihkli *** • Endla 23 City Centre 6 2,5 84 167 E ph +372 666 4800 • fax +372 666 4888 [email protected] www.uniquestay.com

von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn • Toompuiestee 23 City Centre 6 2 77 0 148 E ph +372 660 0700 • fax +372 661 6176 [email protected] www.uniquestay.com

Viru Inn Hotel • Viru 8 Old Town 6 1,5 15 27 F/G ph +372 611 7600 • fax +372 641 8357 [email protected] • www.viruinn.ee

Ülemiste Hotel **** • Lennujaama tee 2 Lasnamäe 0,5 6 131 4 250 E/F/ ph +372 603 2600 • fax +372 603 2601 G [email protected] • www.ylemistehotel.ee ACCOMMODATION 61

Hostels

16eur Hostel • Roseni 9 City centre 16 28 A/B ph +372 50 13046 [email protected] • www.16eur.ee

Academic Hostel • Akadeemia tee 11 Mustamäe 9 8 108 216 B ph +372 620 2275 • fax +372 620 2276 [email protected] www.academichostel.com

City Bike Hostel • Uus 33 Old Town 3 7 A/B ph +372 511 1819 [email protected] • www.citybike.ee

Mahtra hostel • Mahtra 44 Lasnamäe 9 21 B ph +372 621 8828 • fax +372 634 5433 [email protected] • www.mahtra.ee

OldHouse Hostel • Uus 26 Old Town 6 1 23 78 B/C/ ph +372 641 1464 • fax +372 641 1604 D [email protected] • www.oldhouse.ee

Tallinna Teeninduskooli Hostel • Lastekodu 13 City Centre 4 2,5 67 159 B/C ph +372 681 1352 [email protected] www.teeninduskool.ee/hostel

Vana Tom • Väike-Karja 1 Old Town 6 1,5 15 50 A/B/ ph +372 631 3252 • fax +372 631 3252 C/D/ [email protected] • www.hostel.ee E

Guesthouses

Alexi Villa • Sihi 49 Nõmme 7 7 6 14 B/C/ ph +372 670 0096 • fax +372 650 6221 D [email protected] • www.alexi.ee

Allee • Tedre 51 Kristiine 5,5 4,5 7 15 B/C ph +372 651 3811 [email protected] • www.alleeinfo.ee

Dorell • Karu 39 City Centre 6 0,8 31 59 B/C/ ph +372 666 4333 • fax +372 666 4334 E [email protected] • www.dorell.ee

Gloria Guesthouse • Müürivahe 2 Old Town 6 1,5 6 10 D/E/ ph +372 644 6950 • fax +372 646 6180 F [email protected] • www.gloria.ee

Olevi Residence • Olevimägi 4 Old Town 6 1,5 26 52 D/E/ ph +372 627 7650 • fax +372 627 7651 G [email protected] • www.olevi.ee

Pirita Kloostri Guesthouse • Merivälja tee 18 Pirita 9 6,5 21 41 C/D ph +372 605 5000 • fax +372 605 5010 [email protected] • www.osss.ee 62 ACCOMMODATION

Poska Villa • J. Poska 15 Kadriorg 6 3 8 13 C ph +372 601 3601 • fax +372 601 3754 [email protected] • www.hot.ee/poskavilla

Valge Villa • Kännu 26/2 Kristiine 6 5 10 20 C/D ph +372 654 2302 • fax +372 654 2302 [email protected] • www.white-villa.com

Guest Apartments

Aasa Villa • Aasa 2 City Centre 6 2 8 16 B/C ph +372 504 5444 • fax +372 660 5818 [email protected] • www.apartment.ee

Adelle Apartments • Viru väljak 6 City Centre 6 1 8 18 D/E ph +372 742 7700/+372 505 8520 [email protected] • www.adelle.ee

Apartment24 Harjumaa 2 8 C/D Rannakalda 13, Harjumaa Viimsi vald, Pringi ph +372 55 685 351 • fax +372 601 2374 [email protected] • www.apartment24.ee

Breakfast in Bed • Videviku 30 Kristiine 8 4 2 7 C ph +372 648 2299 • fax +372 641 6416 [email protected] • www.breakfastinbed.ee

Briston Apartments • Harju 7 Old Town 6 1,5 11 22 D/E/ ph +372 699 9670; +372 699 0900 • fax +372 641 8031 F [email protected] www.briston-apartmens.com

City Apartments • Terase 11 City Centre 4 2,5 2 2 D/E ph +372 508 6326 • fax +372 646 6328 [email protected]

Classic Apartments • Suur-Karja 18 Old Town 6 1 5 12 C/D/ fax +372 638 6464 E [email protected] www.tallinnapartment.eu

Erel Apartments • Tartu mnt 14 City Centre 3 2,5 41 140 D/E/ ph +372 610 8780 • fax +372 610 8790 F [email protected] • www.erel.ee

Flat Management Apartments • Kaupmehe 8 City Centre 5 3 3 8 B/G ph +372 523 2239 [email protected] www.flatmanagement.ee

Guest Apartment • Väike-Karja 7 Old Town 6 1,5 8 5 D/E ph +372 502 0528 [email protected] • www.criticaldance.com/flat ACCOMMODATION 63

Härjapea Guest Apartment • Härjapea 18-1 Põhja-Tallinn 2 3 B ph +372 677 4419 • [email protected]

Ites Apartments • Harju 6 Old Town 6 1,5 14 20 D/E/ ph +372 5621 7114/+372 631 0637 • fax +372 631 0637 F [email protected] • www.ites.ee

Kullassepa Residence • Kullassepa 9 Old Town 6 1 8 19 E/F/ ph +372 53 444 464 / +372 623 2055 G [email protected] • www.residence.ee

Kuninga Apartments • Kuninga 1 Old Town 6 1,5 5 10 E/F ph +372 644 2432/+372 538 04478 [email protected] • www.kuninga.com

Nancy V. Apartments • Roopa 19 City Centre 6 2 1 2 C ph +372 501 3579 [email protected] • www.sleepintallinn.com

Old Town Flats • Viru väljak 6 City Centre 6 1 2 4 D/E ph +372 502 0528 [email protected] • www.criticaldance.com/flat

OldHouse Apartments • Uus 22 Old Town 6 1 43 64 D/E/ ph +372 641 1464 F [email protected] • www.oldhouse.ee

Pilve Apartments • Pilve 4 City Centre 6 2,5 14 43 B/C/ ph +372 504 5444 D/E [email protected] • www.apartment.ee

Residence Apartments • Suur-Karja 23 Old Town 6 2 2 4 D/E/ ph +372 628 2295 • fax +372 628 2296 F [email protected] • www.accommodation.ee

Villa Hortensia • Vene 6 Old Town 6 1,5 6 12 C/D/ ph +372 504 6113 • fax +372 641 8017 F [email protected] • www.hoov.ee

Villa Maestro • Suur-Karja 10 City Centre 6 1 2 5 F/G ph +372 626 2000; +372 626 2001 • fax +372 631 3333 [email protected] www.maestrohotel.ee/villa.html 64 CITY MAP

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s L i M I s p e M l 4,2 s D a i te i E a e u ä i e a d E O p u s P u 2 e RIKA R R Rocca al Mare Onistar õ , e a k ,2 v i l 3 m p i 4 4 i m i s , e b a K a e o 6 Ko i S e ,2 2 ni n k M l t s 2 UUS MAAILM l 4, o A n e j k a VEERENNI Autobussijaam o õ l , ik t a Tennisekeskus h a r e u r e T e e m m 6 e M 3 e u B i M a õ 7, e i e , u m e le -A Central Bus T E a i k s V h k l e P s e a n a 4 ik ik TE a s a s a , GEO ä I t t Saku k ni o a V UR u e Premia e k im Mureli 1 k o 9 B u e a a u Station ER T v e , r i T r N P t 5 M Tatar e PE i Suurhall s g te k M e a i Jäähall I l i onela K a To F õ IS u P a e JUHKENTALI p s u 3 i ä k H L l D u i M k u , M t r 2 V i L it a a V s a i h r A T u j , i V Siselinna r ä t d 4 i a n k v a P a u b ja lja i l e Ülemiste tee l e 3 v E t e l K o V m o a , a ik g e l i b i o e L a M i T u e E o a kalmistu e R-SÕJAMÄE 4 SUU t ü l K a s l d i , L K s d s m o i K n R e e K t a a i l l e 9 o id e u u i 6 k n e , a l u a B H E i 7 Tallinna s K e t e õ a i e ka e m 1 ir m s t n r s s K T r L N Jeti t r , i E i - v Sepapaja k i ä ä a e A 5 T H V l a N i ä i s Loomaaed h Ä i H h a N n a P R se I I e Jäähall a L e K a s

m t T ii i h e A E u R m t e V E e 7 u e Sõjaväe õ i T u s 2 e T l E e t ä , e e K d , A õ 6 v u re V u L me N e E ld t 3 a A. LeCoq Õil L T s no , e kalmistu A Valukoja m Su t k T k õ iv V ur-S u i a i F õja u 4 E a mäe s M m i V j p l , T i Valu õik E VESKIMETSA ik E d Arena VEERENNI R l koja 9 t õ H u Ä m n Ä r L J i u i T i S I i M ge õ V t A T T Rebase- F KRISTIINE e - A k o Sepise r A N a e R k N J a e R l a l T ä T s l mägi li ä u i M A L g s U S u K e e I e T T T A a 7,6 i U u u l b M K K e E l S e a K t u LILLEKÜLA S koja l M h T T ö N S T i e P e p Tö I k t u d e u r e re T E n o N i D ä 1 E L H kt E A , n r ag u Tallinna d d L M u 5 S ä d ia 7 k V m i i V i ÜLEMISTE äike A , Löwenruh' U K õ -Sõja VÄIKE- U m P s 6 p Lennujaam äe i R i P i R-SÕJAMÄE i e R N ai n SUU Õ park n i s P ä T d lg st e e n ÕISMÄE K o t e 2 a d R a re A A u r , Õ re BLR b Airport D L o Ä e in e V a 3 S V K u e A r , V K nu M V iu u P R a V A o a E t u 4 ik p K T 1 e , la E E , e K o r t e R t t E 5 9 ä s ka ,3 E T u J e N a K ä k 4 uu N i i rd e r g e R V b e I t l s e ää ve L u r g ö i o A v u Pa n K i õ ü r Ö iis di h a E g V T 6 r ä , E Ti i A T ld u R ur 7 7 ri N r u , A u 6 K i i k ü K KITSEKÜLA e A a t D ü i i LUITE A L 1 V P L r u Õ , aa õ u s is K b u o ok ü L m 5 la n e s s L ä s u T t äe e n in e r i t 7,6 n K u te ä u ä u e T k 3 e il e K te i , K dr e r a 3 S e te i n t k , 4 e e E 4 t i a K s a i li a A.H E aj r a s .TA n H ak ä d Saku T n t MM T o a V a n a o SA 2 i m a AR SÄÄSE o , l H o r K MÕIGU e E E e l T t v TEE M 3 e u r Ä , v l u ä K e J 4 ü e u K m M , T K o e S a h Jä A 9 t ja i v n Kaabli rve T ka la E t K o E o ts S e T V a M r KADAKA A r g te U m a Places of Interest e õ i E N t i M K A ig ül s H m ä e V ä n u L k o it E j Ka d a k a I õ V m a Järve T A u ots .H R i l a A S N L l a R a e r a b a tee 1 .T Ä J u t e b pa r k m e t s , A i J - J T r M i tm a Ü 5 M l ü a h J A i v u a u SA SIILI e i T J i h l 1 Metsakalmistu cemetery t b K T A - t e s R b am e m m E a s E e L e p n e ,1 T is a T 5,2 E Parditiigi e a i k E t e t k E i S V a e a d V s u d E park n k 2 Botanic Garden a o i u a ,1 T m K K 5,2 e Oo n e a t 2 ,2 l A SZOLNOKI e ,3 3 St. Bridget's Convent e ä 4 k e E. 9, a t m V Lepistiku d 1 il I , e a d K v e 2 d t e Harbour Post Office a a , il te T park ASTANGU e 5 s e Järve a Legend s V S Legend Rae v4alEstoniand History Museum, 1 m u s , P m i a 2 ia M E ri , e t a S lek j Maarjamäe Castle 5 a t U e T E l Car Park Panoramic View e t u MUSTAMÄE T 9 i e su A e 9,4 us PR , N sk ,3 Õ e Ke 4 9,4 S Vi k r v M t e 3 ,3 Old City Wall, Tower 5 Song Festival Grounds ,4 e 9 U Parking House Toilet WC e Männipark R n N i ,4,3 JÄRVE a R 9 L Ä Tourist Information 6 Kadriorg Palace – e P Hotel T WC e troni t k Ele e Museum of Foreign Art r 3 e M v ä ä e i Embassy alu Energia s Ü l e m i s t e Guesthouse s e m e e te Te Museum u te rv 7 Kumu Art Museum t ütis is h s J. S e a Bus Terminal p j ä r v R Hostel E Beach a Mäep H k ealse Sütiste parkmets 8 Kadriorg Park a R I T Railway Station d a A Camping a j Juudi a J Yacht Marina K A 9 Soone TTÜ kalmistu V Tallinn Zoo T IL Tram E Rahumäe kalmistu J metsapark tee T A Theatre laste E Ru N Monument liõpi E lli D Ü I 10 Estonian Open Air Museum a M K n Trolleybus L llin Sa N a a o T ev T Cinema i s s Nõmme Mustamäe Church mäe tee K es m t s Rahu k e um K i maastikukaitseala T a i 11 The Rotermann Quarter r Piiri e l T ü N m l RAHUMÄE MS g Airport m U r N i i Police Station a s l ÄR h õ Synagogue l P i t ik K a u ni daja 12 Pirita Promenade h K Pe t le T e .G ir S R .V e NÕMME N d P a adu VANA-MUSTAM�E N e u E p P ee n l V e dt i ä r S a an ustamä u u U a a - M V i ä l rni rn Ra a ih tu P D o ä i h T P a ig S s rn A Tähetorni ku iv e B a lja i u u A Se L K M M V T e ä ä aar n nek n h Lää i et or ni Tallinn Tourist Information Centre Published by Tallinn City Tourist Office & Convention Bureau, Vabaduse väljak 7, 15199 Tallinn, Estonia Phone +372 645 7777, Fax +372 645 7778 • [email protected] • www.tourism.tallinn.ee Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, 10146 Tallinn, Estonia Text by Steven Q. Roman • Design by Bummi & NODE Berlin • Photos by: Allan Alajaan, Tuuli Antsov, Johannes Arro, Ain Avik,

Viru väljak 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia Draakon Garerii, Tavi Grepp, Kaido Haagen, Haus Galerii, Jaan Heinamaa, Inga Jaanson, Mari Kadanik, Klafira, Kolm Õde, Rein Kotov, Phone: +372 645 7777 • Fax: +372 645 7778 Karel Koplimets, Villu Kraan, Vallo Kruuser, Meelis Lokk, Madis Luik, Andreas Meichsner, Kristjan Mändmaa, Madis Palm, Annika Palvari, Pirita Top Spa, Eduard Pukkonen, Ave Rand, Harri Rospu, Serge Rompza, Tallinna Sadam, Raivo Sarapik, Scanpix, Jüri Seljamaa, Stanislav [email protected] Stepaško, Kalju Suur, Mart Taniel, Kaido Teesalu, Liine Toomse, Andres Treial, Toomas Tuul, Anu Vahtra, Toomas Volmer, Tallinn Zoo. www.tourism.tallinn.ee Cover photo by: Mart Taniel • Printed by AS Pajo • © 2010

Tallinn Card is the all-in-one pass to the The card is accompanied by a 100-page very best the city has to offer. Accepted in brochure that describes each Tallinn nearly 100 locations, the card presents a Card destination in English, Finnish, One Card simple, cost-effective way for visitors to German, Estonian, and Russian. explore Tallinn independently, choosing Tallinn Card is available for 6, 24, 48 or 72- for Everything the sights that interest them most. hour periods. There’s simply no better way to make a short stay in Tallinn personal, Tallinn Card prices: economical and unforgettable. 6 h 24 h 48 h 72 h Adults 185 EEK 375 EEK 435 EEK 495 EEK 12 EUR 24 EUR 28 EUR 32 EUR Tallinn Card includes: Children 95 EEK 200 EEK 225 EEK 250 EEK • Free entrance to all museums and (up to 14 years) 6 EUR 13 EUR 15 EUR 16 EUR tourist sights in Tallinn; Additional info: www.tallinncard.ee

• Free sightseeing tours on foot, The Tallinn Card has been issued by the Tallinn City Tourist by bus and bicycle; Office & Convention Bureau since 1998. • Free city transport; Further information: • Discounts in restaurants and shops; Ph. +372 640 4757 • [email protected] • Discounts on leisure activities. www.tallinncard.ee