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Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. makes no warranty as to the accuracy or completeness of any content of this work. Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. disclaims any warranty for the content, and will not be liable for any damage or loss resulting from the use of any content. SLEEP WARM ••• Wake Up Refreshed REMEMBER • • • there is nothing like DOWN FOR WEIGHTLESS WARMTH IN * SLEEPING BAGS-TAILOR MADE BAGS ON REQUEST. * EIDERDOWN QUILTS. * FEATHER AND DOWN PILLOWS.

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WALK

Post Distribution enquiries to: C/- Distribution Manager, Melbourne Bushwalkers, Box 17.'510. G.P.O., Melbourne, 3001. Editor: A. Schafer. Advertising Manager: G. Kenafacke, C/- Riley Dodds (Aust.) Pty. Ltd., 636 Swanston St., Carlton, Vic. Phone 34-4651, ext. 26.

WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Mel­ bourne Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation. CONTENTS Walking-A Way to Health .. 3 Moroka Gorge and Snowy Bluff Alma Strappazon 4 South of Bryce's Gorge F. W. Halls 10 Between the Kiewa and the Mitta A. Schafer 18 A Walking Menu Doug and Robyn Pocock 24 New Zealand's Milford Track Marion Siseman 26 Our Mountains in Winter John Brownlie 31 Wildflowers of the Autumn and Winter Rex and Sue Filson 33 24 Hour Walk Shirley Treloar 37 Yambla and Tabletop Tyrone T. Thomas 53 Tasmanian Newsletter 58 Mountain Muster 59 New Maps 62 Why Adventure? Robert Taylor 63

WALKS SECTION Wilson's Promontory (Northern Half) 39 Mount Cole State Forest (2 and 3 days) . 48 Neerim Junction-Glen Nayook-La Trobe River (1-day) 54 Tecoma-Sherbrooke Forest-Belgravc (1-day) .55 Bear's Head Range- (1-day) 56

COVER PHOTO by John Brownlie. "Bushwalkers in Barmah Forest."

If you are interested in DAY WALKS WEEK-END WALKING EXTENDED TOUR WALKING Then write for details to the Hon. Secretary, Box 1751Q, G.P.O., Melbourne, 3001, or CALL AND SEE US any Friday (8 to 10.30 p.m.), at 161 Flinders Lane, Melbourne. MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS VISITORS are always WELCOME on our walks. 80 Walks a year are listed on our Walks Programme!

Page Two WALK WALKING- A Way to Health

In recent years, much concern has been voiced over the low level of physical fitness in the community at large. It is agreed that people of all ages are not as fit as they should be; while with the middle-aged and elderly there is. an increasing incidence of degenerative diseases, the beginning of the run-down can often be found among those of youthful years-a fact which has been highlighted by the official admission that large numbers of 20-year olds, called up for compulsory military service, are rejected on account of their bad health or poor physical condition. Most of the blame has been laid obviously and correctly on the increasing mechanization of daily life where arms, legs, hands and feet have become increasingly less active agents. This is especially true in the fields of transport and communication where the wheel has ousted the leg. To counter the loss of forced but beneficial physical activity, some kind of voluntary exercise must be undertaken to avoid too much muscular atrophy. In this regard scientifically designed sets of pro­ gressive exercises, such as the 5BX series and the Australian "Keeping Fit" campaign, have been given widespread publicity, sometimes with full official sanction. However, although many may start the exercises, relatively few practise them consistently for the length of time necessary to achieve any lasting benefit. Call it lack of self-discipline-or mere laziness-there appears to be a perfectly understandable reluctance to perform on a voluntary basis too many mechanical chores in a world already full of dull routine. If, as an alternative to a prescribed set of exercises, an interesting recreation is taken up, there is every chance that the effort will be kept up for a longer period and not so readily abandoned. Doctors have long recommended walking, and more walking, as the simplest and, indeed, the best recreational exercise in which the human frame can achieve a modicum of health and physical fitness. The great advantage of walking is that the pace can be varied to suit the walker, according to age, condition, wish or temperament. Walking, too, can be made more than a mere exercise, especially when shared with companions of similar bent of mind. Certainly, following a track through pleasant, natural surroundings can be more exhilarating than following a set of room exercises. Urban areas with smog, noise and monotony have little to offer walkers. The benefits of recreational walking are best realized out in the quietness and clean air of the countryside, and at fullest in the unspoiled bush.

WALK Page Three MOROKA GORGE & SNOWY BLUFF

Alma Strappazon

Moroka Gorge, the very name brings to my mind the tumbling waterfalls, and that isolation so dear to the heart of the bushwalker. Boxing Day 1966 found four enthusiastic members of the Club en route to McFarlane's Plain in Felix's car, stopping on the way to hide a store of food at the foot of the spur coming down from The Crinoline. This was for the last day of the walk, and knowing how hungry one becomes after days of walking in mountainous country, we sincerely hoped no wandering huntsman would find and devour it. After this most important chore had been seen to, we drove to McFarlane's Plain to set up camp while Felix continued on to Doolan's Plain, leaving the car there with food supplies on board, to be picked up by us after our first six days. He then hitch-hiked back to camp. Next morning our walk began with a steady climb over Trapyard Hill, unsuccessfully searching there for the spring marked on one of our maps. Walking in a north-easterly direction, we also climbed Cromwell's Knob, and later Little Cromwell. From then on, our pace slowed considerably through the dry growth clothing the ridges. Lack of water on this high ridge made it almost imperative to reach the that evening, so we held to a compass course a little east of north, and after some slow weary miles, the ridge dropped away sharply, and clinging to the vegetation for support, we found ourselves at last at the junction of the river and Lummican Creek. Surprisingly there had been an earlier camp, and there was just room for our four little tents. We pitched camp, and fell into our sleeping bags with sighs of relief after a difficult day. With the cry from Felix "Moroka Gorge, today!" we were up very early, and, feeling fit again, we left our tents and began our way downstream, keeping to the left bank of the river where an animal pad of sorts made the going easier. It may have been because we carried no packs, or because we were so close to our objective, but whatever the reason, we found the scrub not quite as unfriendly as the day before, and soon we came to the first waterfall where we spent some considerable time. We soon passed Kent Creek, which flows in a southerly direction into the river, and before long came to the second waterfall. The river had a magical effect, leading us ever onwards, forgetful of time, to a place where rocks divided the water into two falls. Here a creek falls steeply down the mountainous banks into the same pool below. The whole setting with the three falls tumbling far down, was really beautiful, and we stayed a long time gazing in admiration. Some thought that a view from below looking upwards would be even better. Page Four WALK Falls on Moroka River. Photo by Ed Lawton.

From our high point there was no direct way down, so it appeared that it would have to be a long climb up and a rocky scramble below. This was attempted, but alas for our view from below! The undergrowth grew so thickly along the river and up the walis of the gorge, that penetrating it to reach the pool would have involved many hours of really hard work. However, some day, we will try it again, making the approach from downstream, though this is reported to be even harder. Our return to camp gave us a choice of either a very steep climb out, a swim in the swiftly flowing Moroka, or a bash through the ubiquitous scrub. We chose the last and made little progress, finding no pad, despite our struggles, so it was decided that climbing could hardly be much worse. There folJowed much scrambling around rock faces, panting, sweating, and holding on to anything that promised support, until we reached the top. After a much appreciated night's rest, we crossed the swamp on the way to the Horse Yards. Although we didn't see any there was plenty of evidence that the brumbies were about the Yards. WALK Page Five Although tired we pushed on to reach the road, making for the bridge at Little River. Nobody used the hut there, considering it to be too civilized, but set up camp in the bush. That night it rained, of course! Next morning the sun was shining as we set out along the road to Stonehenge, whose rocks now bear no resemblance to their namesake, the site having been bulldozed out of recognition. We followed the jeep track until it petered out. Meantime a dense fog had descended, and though we searched, we were unable to find the track to Dairyfarm Flat and Castle Hill. A visit to the Pinnacles also proved a disappointment because of the obscuring fog. Still, it is this damp, foggy weather which is beloved of the lyrebirds, and there were plenty of them about, as Felix's imitations soon produced a rousing chorus from the males, ostensibly defending their territory from the newcomer! In the afternoon we reached the foot of Mt. Little Kent whose tops were still in cloud. Camp was made on a meadowy flat, spoiled only by a lack of water, so our young leader, Ed, was despatched into a steep gully south of the camp, and after an hour or so returned with one canvas bucket of the precious liquid which we carefully divided among us. The shadows gathered around the camp, the fog settled lower, and later in the darkness we heard the lonely howl of a dingo. A jeep track bypassed Mt. Little Kent and made delightful walking next morning. It ended at the foot of Mt. Kent, and, after a long climb, that summit was reached at 9 a.m. A considerable time was spent admiring the beautiful views surrounding us. Several rocky outcrops between Mt. Kent and Shanty Hollow forced us to keep close to the northern side of the ridge on our way down. Water was found south of Shanty Hollow, in a creek coming off Mt. Kent. A hot afternoon was spent climbing Mt. Dawson on our way to The Bluff. The rocky walking along the top of the Dawson ridge, and the heat, made for slow going, as did the many pauses to admire the views of the Wonnangatta Valley below on our right. Camp that night was in thick bush on Snowy Bluff Saddle. After some searching, a small but clear flowing spring was found in a deep gully west of the saddle. After climbing Snowy Bluff we vowed not to be outdone by the early morning fog, so we stayed at the top until the clouds began to lift, and we dashed hither and thither to see the views as the clouds parted and the vistas opened up below us. A 3,000 foot drop faced us, but the south side of the Bluff was most refreshing, especially after the dryness of the Dawson Ridge. Short green grasses and a profusion of wild flowers grew, and we seemed to be in a garden, with fringe lilies in abundance, and orchids and lesser flowers trying to outdo each other in colour and form. It was delightfully cool and we left it behind reluctantly as we began the hot work of rock scrambling and sliding down. After two days of carefully rationed water, what a sight to see the swiftly flowing Moroka River again! There was a rush for the water, and on finding a deep pool, it was all in together for a most enjoyable swim. Page Si1 WALK Higgins Yard was an attractive campsite, and after our days of hard going, we decided that an afternoon of rest would be in order in this cool place, but a glimpse of a distant waterfall coming off Snowy Bluff proved too enticing. So Felix and Alma spent the time climbing and scrub bashing, to be rewarded by finding three lovely waterfalls, each at least 100 feet in height, cascading down the mountainside. At 7.30 p.m., New Year's Eve was celebrated with chocolate biscuits which one self-denying member of the party had carried for the past five days.

Moroka Gorge. Scale: 1 inch = 6 miles.

The first day of 1967 began in an appropriate manner (for bushwalkers) with a long 3,400 foot climb to Doolan's Plain. Here the car and our food was found intact. We then drove back to McFarlane's Plain, and then to the Little River bridge which we used as a base in another attempt to find the track to Dairyfarm Flat. Again there was much searching and backtracking, this time in pouring rain, hail and thunder, and with little avail, and so we were glad on our return to the hut to find that Bill, who had remained behind nursing a twisted ankle, had a welcoming fire blazing and a billy of tea just right. We stayed in the hut that night! Morning brought better weather, so another trip was made to the Pinnacles, one of the few places where a 360 degree view is possible, and magnificent it was-mountain tops bathed in sunshine, a vast sea of white cloud below-giving the sensation of being apart from this world. On the pretext of keeping the young fire watcher company in his tower (and using his binoculars to advantage) a long time was spent there, the beginning of a day of breath-taking views. At last we left, deciding to take the road to Doolan's Plain, but a signpost marked "Neilson Crag" could not be resisted and we drove as far as possible along a timber track. From the Crag itself there was a glorious valley view of distant waterfalls cascading down Mt. Lookout. Reluctantly leaving, we returned the car to Doolan's Plain and continued on foot to Kelly's Hut, climbing Mt. Arbuckle on the way WALK Page Seven ("we can't miss it when we are so close") from where we could see our old friend Snowy Bluff. At length, tired, but with hearts and minds full of the day's beauty, we reached Kelly's Hut on Holme's Plain. Duly signing the visitors' book, in which two of the party found their signatures dating back several years, we made cosy camp in the hut. Some time was spent reminiscing about earlier walks in the region. This led to some funny stories about walks and walkers. Lightheartedness became the order of the day, or rather, night, for as we lay in darkness trying unsuccessfully to sleep, someone's voice would raise itself in rhyme, and another "there was a young walker" jingle would start up the hilarity again. Two of the party had names which did not lend themselves to rhyme, so that Ed and Bill became the butt of the jokes, the more impolite ones being the cause of much noisy laughter, surely unseemly in that serene beautiful place.

Fire Lookout on The Pinnacles. Photo by Ed Lowton.

Mt. Reynard beckoned us next morning, and we found a jeep track going uphill to where there were views all round, Mt. Howitt and The Divides seemingly quite close. Wandering as we willed about the flattish topped mountain we returned by way of the hut for our packs which we carried along the Bennison Plains track past Higgins and Chesters' Huts. Late in the afternoon we found that a logging road leaves the main road to go east and north of Mt. Tamboritha towards Dry Hill, while a branch of the logging road skirts the northern spur of the mountain and on towards Long Hill. The roads were not marked Page Eight WALK on any of our maps, so some time was spent reconnoitring. Lack of water made it necessary to retrace part of the walk to camp on a tributary of Shaw's Creek. The Crinoline (or Mt. Ligar) was next on our list, but first a stop at another high waterfall and voices raised to make the echoes ring again and again in the early morning's freshness. It was a rocky walk, ever upwards, and on the way we found many Silver Daisies of at least three inches in diameter, the biggest we had seen so far, and also, much to our surprise, the bright pink flowers of Rosy Storksbill, or Wild Geranium, blooming in abundance on the stony ridge. This was the only place where we had seen these brilliant native plants, apparently well adapted to the higher altitude. The scrambling and stumbling, the views on our right of the Bull Plain Spur and the Macallister River below, hands and knees scraping rock, hot sun, bracing air, and at last we were again kings of the castle. From our vantage point we admired the frills of The Crinoline while our leader decided which was the best spur to take. Then began the long walk down, skirting Bruni's Knob, feeling tired and hungry, but uplifted by the thought of our cache of food below. Unerring navigation led us direct to the hidden store, and we fell upon it with cries of delight. Felix, being of stronger stuff, left us to it, and hitched a ride to Doolan's Plain to pick up the car. We spent the rest of the day alternately resting and swimming in the , Tea that night was another gorge. Added to the usual fare, four different desserts were made and shared. Did I say we were hungry? Next day saw us on the way home, but a stop was made at Heyfield where the milk bar and fruit shops were most popular, a fine ending to a hard but rewarding walk. Yes, we missed Castle Hill, and there is also that other approach to Moroka Gorge, but next year ... • ••••

WATERS OF THE LERDERDERG

Of easy access from Melbourne, the Lerderderg River has for long been a popular place to go walking especially where it courses through the rugged Blackwood Ranges. This has been particularly so during the warm summer months when the river settles down to a more gentle flow from one waterhole to the next deep within the secluding gorges. However, a proposed water diver­ sion scheme will certainly have some affect on this flow. The proposal is that tunnels will divert water from the Lerderderg and Goodman's Creek to a new storage to be built on Coimadai Creek. A 135-foot high dam wall will hold back 40,000 acre-feet of water, yield­ ing 10,000 acre-feet per annum for irrigation production and anticipated industrial development in the Bacchus Marsh area. The new storage will be known as Lake Merrimu. One result will be the flooding of the small hamlet Coimadai. WALK Page Nine SOUTH OF BRYCE'S GORGE

By F. W. Halls

Three old timers thought that they'd like to take a good look at the alpine heights of the Mount Darling Range, the Carey Country, Bennison Plains and Long Hill. I was one of the group and my two companions on this Christmas-New Year jaunt were Fwankie and Long Alec, and quite a happy team we made on this enjoyable high plains ramble. Fwankie, a bushlover from way back, is keen on the study of orchids, indeed of all native plants as well as the birds and wild creatures of the bush. Long Alec is a real water-lover. At every opportunity during the long summer days he would dive into some clear cold mountain stream, and lather up while standing in a brisk cool breeze, merrily yodelling excerpts from light opera. Early in the morning of our first day on the Snowy Plains there were some magnificent views over the dark-blue, mist-filled valleys of the Carey. After a false start following a jeep track down into the woollybutt wilds of the Carey, we scrambled and sidled steeply down into Mt. Darling Gap. Moving eastwards steeply out of the Gap we climbed over the range, through down timber and tall woollybutts to a grassy campsite on Mt. Darling Creek. Next morning swiftly scudding clouds filled valleys as we stood on the most south-easterly rock outcrops of the Mt. Darling Range. Clouds were swirling into the Moroka, the Carey and Wonnangatta valleys. Seething mists filled the deep valley below our feet, obscuring the red cliffs of Snowy Bluff, the Mt. Kent Range and Wonnangatta's "Happy Valley" river flats. Strange it was then, that the upper reaches of the Carey Country were bathed in bright sunshine. This was the weather pattern for the morning of our first day on the Mt. Darling Range. Later, brilliant sunshine replaced the thick morning cloud. Wandering north we passed into a shallow grassy valley at the head of the Mt. Darling Creek, an exquisite little valley as yet unspoilt by man or his animals. Because of its isolation, this small high plain remains in superb condition, the sphagnum moss being deep, spongy and untrampled, the surrounding grassy meadows and snowgum slopes ablaze with countless wildflowers, and the water is crystal clear, cold and plentiful. Along the course of Mt. Darling Creek and all the small side creeks entering the mainstream, the sphagnum moss appears to he far deeper and springier than in any other valley I've seen, while the watershed is in almost perfect con­ dition for the vital purpose of water storage. What a contrast to some other neighbouring watersheds! These others are badly cut up and gouged by milling activities, and eroded by an upsurge of the rabbit menace. Because of its relative isolation and difficulty of approach, the Darling Creek watershed appears to have supported little cattle grazing in the past, so there appears little damage caused by trampling

Page Ten WALK A Distant View of Snowy Bluff. Photo by Ed Lowton.

of the sphagnum bog areas which results in a slower release of water in the early summer. Consequently more water would be flowing from the bogs in late summer and early autumn when it was more urgently required. This highlights the necessity of conserving and regulating stream flow by drastic restriction of cattle grazing in the high-plain region, because, generally speaking, cattle graze selectively on the sphagnum, with consequent miring and eventual drying out of bogs. Cattlemen have stated emphatically that stock causes no watershed damage or erosion, but there have been dramatic changes and damage in the Shaw's Creek and Snowy Plains region during the last few years. In the afternoon there was enjoyable walking through open snowgum forest, along a narrow ridge with occasional rocky knolls serving as grandstands for splendid views across the Wonnangatta Valley. It was a day of freedom, good companionship and breezy walking on the rocky backbone of Mt. Darling Ridge. Returning to Darling Creek valley, the leader turned the wrong way-down instead of upstream. The silvered woolybutt on the far bank was getting taller, the tea-tree scrub thicker, and the sphagnum moss deeper. So we retraced out footsteps and arrived at camp just on nightfall. Southwards along the ridge we scrambled, searching for the rocky causeway down to the Mt. Darling Gap. Too late we realized that we had left the ridge too far south, and now we were heading down into Carey Country just south of the Gap. We scrambled down through a tangled mess of woolybutt undergrowth, over a jumble of down timber mingled with hickory saplings, ferns and trailing wild raspberry

WALK Page Eleven vines. After a short distance of pushing through this rubbish we returned to clear forest at Mt. Darling Gap. We arrived hack at the rocky scarp of Snowy Range at a high sandstone knoll overlooking the divide between Conglomerate and Carey Creeks. A cool updraught swept the face of the scarp, tem­ pering what would otherwise have been quite a hot day. From this point the view was magnificent overlooking the Conglomerate and Carey watersheds, with the red-brown tiers of Bryce's Gorge visible in a western niche of the Snowy Range. Should you wish to see the glorious Sun Orchids and other wild­ Rower gardens behind Bryce's Gorge, you had better go there some January soon-before the whine of the chain-saws starts to penetrate the timbered depths of the deep gorge between the red-bronze ramparts.

(!) Ml.D •• t •.,.

Area South af Bryce's Gorge. Scale: I inch = 10 miles.

The whispering waters of the Conglomerate and Pieman's Creeks, tumbling over some of the State's finest waterfalls, are still vigorously carving out the great howl further westwards into the Snowy Range. What had we gained from our three-day roughly triangular ramble on the Mt. Darling Range when such fine panoramas were readily available from the easy contours of the Snowy Range summit? We had the pleasure of seeing some alpine country practically untouched by white man, and the favourable comparison of the present state of its upland valleys as compared with the eroded condition of neighbouring valleys such as Shaw's, Conglomerate and Pieman's Creeks. We were privileged to view small areas of primitive wooly­ butt forest, grassy uplands and sphagnum moss bogs at the peak of perfection. Next day, from a base camp at the head of Holme's Plain, we wandered the upland valley, through an old stockyard and into the Page Twelve WALK peace of a woollybutt grove, before continuing along the Plain to the well-known haven-Kelly's Hut. The slow return to camp was by way of the flower-decked red-rock terraces of the Divide between Tin Bucket and Shaw's Creeks, then down through The Gorge. There was appalling erosion in places along the upper reaches and bog areas of Shaw's Creek. Particularly bad was the damage to bogs, creeks and tracks in the Gorge Creek section, which was accentuated by the movement of terrain in the building of the Snowy Range Road. As well as the miring and drying out of the sphagnum bogs on the Snowy Plains, large scour marks and headward stream erosion were plain in many places where jeep tracks crossed streams.

Kelly's Hut. Photo by L. Barr.

The way to Carey Creek Falls northwards is down the high plain valley from Holme's Plain head. A mile or so down, a noisy creek, tumbling down from mossy red heights on the left, joins the main creek, by now a fairly large stream cascading down over several fine waterfalls. Through ferns and ancient club mosses it drops, before that last spectacular leap into Carey Creek valley. From a rocky crag south-east, where the blue valley yawned below our feet, was one of the finest views on the Carey Country-red and gold gum tips of nearby trees below were a perfect foil for the blue folds of high ranges north and west of the Watchtower (Neilson's Crag). W A L K Page Thirteen Next morning found us tramping southwards over Holme's Plain to Kelly's Hut, McMichael's Hut and the Bennison Plains. Walking south over the sod tussock grasslands and sphagnum bogs was mostly pleasant, particularly in the vicinity of Higgins Hut in its peaceful snowgum setting. After crossing the free-flowing deep waters of Bennison Creek (Shaw's Creek) on a log bridge, we tramped the grassy flower-strewn meadows of Bennison Plains, searching for a comfortable campsite. This we soon found on a lush bench sheltered by bronze-barked Black Sallees. Tents were pitched on a spot giving views across the wide Bennison valley, beautiful in its setting of evening tranquillity. But soon came the high-pitched buzz of a myriad of mosquitoes. Fwankie was in dire trouble at his spot, because the vicious "mozzies" seemed to be twice as thick there. Smoke, blowing through his tent from a smudge-fire of dry cattle dung seemed to solve the problem.

Snow Gums on the Bennison Plains. Photo by K. Gront.

Meanwhile, Long Alec was happily wallowing in the cool depths of a waterhole in the fast flowing creek. Tomorrow we would miss his merry carolling and splashing, for he would return to the lowlands via Bennison Spur, while Fwankie and I continued on to the red­ banded alpine meadows of Long Hill. As we farewelled him next morning, he was-guess where?-once more churning the waters of Shaw's Creek; a real water sprite and the cleanest bushwalker this side of the black stump. Heat haze next day tended to obscure the view from Tamboritha's wooded summit, so we moved on, following the marked walking track westwards through the dry rocky forest of Long Spur (burnt in the Page Fourteen WALK huge '64 mountain fire). Although it was generally hot and hazy north of the ridge, we sometimes benefited from the cooling effect of a lazy southerly while on the often sharp spur. In the Long Hill, Bennison and Wellington River country, there are countless signs of irreparable damage caused by the disastrous 192,000 acre fire of 1964. There are square miles of precipitous mountain terrain where, although the trees are coppicing, the bare hard red slopes show through the scant forest cover. There is little shelter from the scorching sun, and the heat reflects back from jumbled piles of bare red sandstone. Sheet erosion caused by the burning of holding vegetation, needle-ice erosion, and the scuffing action of bovine hooves is rife along the Long Spur and Long Hill, particularly along the line of the old cattle pad adjacent to the fall. Most of the alpine meadows of the Long Hill region were in good condition and ablaze with wildflowers; the Blue Pincushion, Rosy Storksbill, and particularly the Clusted Everlasting predominating in thousands of clumps, dotting the steep slopes above the red rock gorges and cliff faces. Of trees there were really not very many, just a few twisted snowgums scattered on the crest of the ridge. Indeed it seemed that were it not for the root systems of the various herbs­ particularly the ubiquitous everlastings-holding the soil, some of these self-same rocky ledges would finish 3,000 feet below as a reddish stain in the waters of the Caledonia. A strange region is this Long Hill area, where grassy meadows slope down to overhanging cliffs of Devonian sandstone some thirty to fifty feet high, followed by a succession of further alternate alpine slopes and red rock cliffs. On some slopes of the southern fall of Long Hill, much higher red cliffs curve in an arc at the various heads of Long Hill and Breakfast Creeks. These amphitheatres often resemble Tasmania's glacial cirques, but I am sure these circles of cliffs have not been formed by glacial action, but purely by headward stream erosion in the red Devonian sandstone. Some of these colourful cliff overhangs extend for long distances; one deep overhang on the eastern approach to Long Hill is over 100 yards long, making quite a distinctive shelf just below the mountain summit. The approach from the east is, in places, along a very narrow rocky spur where the way is sometimes barred by jumbled layers of the red stone. Still further west, tiny soaks near the lower edge of an alpine meadow seeped downward through interstices in deep-red sedimentary layers, finally dripping rapidly in several streamlets from the underside of a frowning overhang at least 15 feet deep by 8-10 feet high, and 100 feet long. An excellent shelter exists with adequate wood nearby, and would be a comfortable campsite as it is protected by the over­ hang, and has a water supply in the roof. Where Long Hill turns the corner from a west to south direction, we had some difficulty finding the waterhole near the head of Long Hill Creek. First we were too far south-east among cliffy bays, and the water couldn't have been there, as the summer run-off was much too fast. Further south again the terrain dropped steeply surrounded by dark-red banded cliffs, but in a flatter gully just to the north we found the waterhole with clear, grassy campsites close by the bark­ lined soak. WALK Page Fifteen Overnight a heavy fog shrouded the high tops with the result that the start next morning was not as early as planned. Half-an-hour after our start, brilliant sunshine dispelled the last mists from the green and red chasms high above the Caledonia, and the views were far superior than when seen in the hard hazy light of the previous day. Our Christmas tramp concluded at the eastern end of Bennison Plains, where the Plains jeep-track joins the Moroka/Bennison Spur­ Licola Road. Rabbits seemed to be increasing in numbers again, at least on the Bennison Plains. On the slopes just above the valley bottom are areas of lush grass, and just at the inward edge of these grassy benches, facing the valley and sheltered by spreading Black Sallees, we found the extensive warrens of an increasing rabbit population. It is quite depressing to recount the damage to these high plains and to see the destruction of the alpine habitat, but one must speak out for there is no discounting the fact that erosion is considerable and accelerating, that entrenchment of streams is increasing, and that water run-off in late summer is decreasing. The types of damage observed in the Snowy Plains region is typical of all other high plain districts seen during the past twelve years. Our observations on this trip only served to confirm opinions formed on other alpine trips over the past decade. What will be the picture in yet another generation? I shudder to think! •••••

OUTFITTING THE MOUNTAINEER Whether it's for strolling in the hills or wintering in the Tasmanian south-west, a walker needs his gear to see him in safety and comfort on his way. As a guide to the choice of equipment for the bushwalker, the rock-climber, the caver and the mountaineer, the Melbourne Uni­ versity Mountaineering Club has issued a new and enlarged edition of "Equipment for Mountaineering". By being able to draw upon the experience and recommendations of a large number of their competent and seasoned members, as well as the help from other clubs and individuals from all over the country, they have been able to generally expand the contents of the book, adding information concerning the performance of several new items of equip­ ment which have made their appearance since the publishing of the first edition in 1961. The fourteen chapters are: Clothing, Personal Gear, Camping Equip­ ment, Food, First Aid Kits, Maps and Aerial Photographs, Lightweight Walking, Equipment for Caving, Home-made Equipment, Trip-planning and Preparation, Camping Techniques, and Recommended Books. Five appendices tell where to buy, price ranges, addresses of clubs, calorific values of food, and a checklist. Altogether, an up-to-date reference, guide and hand-book. "EQUIPMENT FOR MOUNTAINEERING". Melbourne University Mountaineering Club, 1965. Price 45 cents.

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WALK Page Seventeen BETWEEN THE KIEWA & THE MITTA

A. Schafer

A week's walking over the High Plains had gone by and at last we were standing on Mt. Bogong's summit, gazing into the hazy distance on a midsummer afternoon. Unhurried clouds drifted by, their shadows dappling an intricate pattern of webbed ranges running northwards to where an arm of the Lake Hume could be easily dis­ cerned. This contrasted with the intervening dark slabs of plateaux, separated from other mountain systems by the cultivated valleys of the and the . The former in the west; the latter in the east.

Kiewa River/Mitta Mitta River Divide. Scale: l inch 8 miles.

Thus in the north lay the next stage of our walk-the Kiewa­ Mitta Mitta Divide. Directly across the intervening Mountain Creek valley was Mt. Emu, a little less in altitude than half of Bogong's 6,516 feet. For the next dozen miles, a ridge of bumps and gaps rising up to Mt. Tawanga's 4,161 feet. From then onwards other ranges, averaging 3,000 feet, dipped gently away from the northern side of the Lockard Gap down to the . Twenty-four hours later found us at Trappers' Creek Gap, a crossway of mountain road and track. Here the main road commences back along the left branch of Mountain Creek and then continues as a dry-weather route to Granite Flat on the Mitta Mitta. At the Gap this road is crossed by a track following the main watershed. South­ wards it ascends Mt. Bogong by way of the Eskdale Spur while to the north-west it goes over Mt. Emu and beyond. For us, "beyond" was not very far. After the ridge track ended a few miles north of Mt. Emu, we entered a land of scrub and granite until reaching Mt. Yorke with its slopes of densely packed, snow­ damaged ash saplings. Suffice it to say, that, after a day of soaring temperatures at the lower altitude, aU thought of proceeding had vanished, and we were Page Eighteen WALK Mt. Towongo-From Keegan's Bridge. Photo by Lonce Mobbs.

soon sliding the two-thousand feet down into the Kiewa valley, where, as night fell, dogs were set on us by a local who had mistaken us for a pack of dingoes about to descend upon his chickens. Fortunately the domestic dogs were called back in time, and we all finished up by joining the family for a late supper in a farmhouse kitchen only a few miles out from Mt. Beauty. Last summer came as another opportunity to revisit the area. But this time we would reverse direction and start from the north. Our party set off from Keegan's bridge, where the Gundowring road spans the Kiewa River. It was early morning, and everywhere the cicadas shrilled. From the levee, one took in a landscape of lush pasture sown on the rich alluvial fans, which are really the open feet of the forested ranges. Five and a half miles south-west rose Mt. Tawanga, our first mountain. In order to take the most direct climb to the top, we turned down a back road running between the range and the river. For three miles, this road passed a number of small dairy farms, sometimes dipping down to small watercourses, which, after rising in the hills, cut the road on their way down to join the main stream. Soon our road narrowed, twisted, then climbed to a little knot of isolated hills from where there was a fine view of the Kiewa Valley, and also one of the Running Creek settlement directly across the river. Leaving the road here, we cut across paddocks and skirted timbered slopes to find a rough vehicular track which petered out at the foot of the mountain. Animal pads then took us further up the spur we had chosen, away from the shrilling cicadas and the jingling mountain creeks, until the high humidity and heat forced us to seek the shelter of one of the cooler gullies where we rested until the evening thunderstorm cleared the air.

WALK Page Nineteen Although the summit was only a mile distant as measured on the map, it took almost four hours determined climbing up three-thousand feet of rough ground. The upper heights eased out into a little plateau of open forest, mainly Candlebark Gums and Alpine Ash, through which wound a leafy track. The summit (4,151 ft.), marked by the remains of an old trigono­ metrical station, turned out to be a good spot for lunch, and an enjoyable outlook. Falling abruptly away from our feet began the deep basin of Little Snowy and Back Creeks, their dark forests relieved by splashes of lighter greens denoting long strips of clearing along these streams. Looking generally eastwards, one could see the far away Snowy Mountains spread out in line along the blue horizon, as thus: far right the Big Cobbera sixty miles distant and unmistakably recognized, even so far away, by the huge scallops of rock; to the left came The Pilot, the Ramsheads, then the long wall of Kosciusko with its head lost in cloud; yet, the furthermost discernible peak, recognized as Mt. Jagungal (6,764 ft.) seventy-five miles distant, had its sky clear. From the trig. the old track plunged into the coolness of the mountain's shadow, losing height for almost a mile until reaching a saddle where a new forestry road climbed into sunlight out of one of the heads of Back Creek. The new road was taken for a few miles to where it again met the old track. The latter dropped steeply, offering some impressive views of Mt. Bogong which IDled the southern scene with its twenty miles of mountain wall. At the bottom of the descent was The Gap, a brackeny saddle dividing a tributary of the Kiewa, Bay Creek, from the head of Saxy Creek which feeds the Little Snowy Creek and eventually the Mitta Mitta River. An hour's exploration of nearby gullies revealed no water, so it was decided to camp at huts shown on the Lands Dept. map. The intervening distance of half-a-mile was achieved in a roundabout course involving a seven-hundred foot climb and a thousand foot drop, all in two hours. At the bottom of the spur an old horse track, cut in slaty rock, led past all that remained of the huts-the concrete floors. Still, the terraced surroundings and an old orchard made a pleasant enough campsite. Immediately below the old site wide-spreading tree-ferns shaded a double fording, the start of the morning's walk along a track bright with wildflowers. In a mile or so, Saxy Creek joined the main stream, the valley now widening into grassy flats dappled with the shade of scattered cover. Here was also a track junction where a set of wheel-tracks marked the way upstream along the Little Snowy Creek whose waters ripped and roared down the stony rapids. The southward track led past some old mine shafts, a reminder that once the valley also echoed the clang and clatter of the gold­ seekers. In the Victorian "Prospectors' Guide", it is noted that the "valley of the Little Snowy Creek carried numerous small reefs, of good value", the head of the creek being known as the Mt. Elmo gold-field. As seems to be the rule in old mmmg areas, the brambles had taken over in many places nearly closing the track. An hour's walking from the junction ended at a crossing, the track on the far Page Twenty WALK DID YOU KNOW THAT OVER 40,000 SILVA COMPASSES ARE IN USE THROUGHOUT

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WALK Page Twenty-one side branching; left-into the Dorchap Range wilderness; right­ further up the main valley. The start of the latter, our track, was found behind another relic of the mining days, probably a crusher. The impenetrable barrier of thorn and brush made it impossible to inspect the old structure closely. As we forded the steam, it struck us that the name "Little Snowy" couldn't be more apt. With its icy tingle, the stream was probably fed by snow-melt waters now issuing from natural storages secreted higher upstream. Although a number of miles from its gully heads, the stream was shaded from any warming influence of the sun by a tunnel-like canopy of bough and leaf. Winding along grassy flats, or under the shade of lightly timbered slopes, a faint horse-track led through a summery landscape of high, blue hills. While setting up camp in such surroundings, we estimated that some of the trees, the Narrow-leafed Peppermints, had their first branches up to eighty feet above ground level. From early dawn, the whole of the next morning was occupied in the strenuous climb out of the headwaters of the Little Snowy Creek. It was very rough country with wombat holes everywhere, but soon after mid-day the main ridge was regained a few miles north of Mt. Emu. As this mountain was approached by way of the ridge the settle­ ments of Tawanga and Mt. Beauty came into view below. Directly across the Kiewa Valley, the Bright road climbed to Tawanga Gap, and, to the south, spread the expansive bulk of Mt. Fainter, behind which loomed the high twin peaks of Mt. Feathertop. Of course, the best view of all was that of Mt. Bogong especially from where the ridge swung to the east from Mt. Emu for the next six miles, along to Trappers' Creek Gap. Its attendant spurs dropping away steeply into the depths of the intervening Mountain Creek valley, the massive mountain seemed amazingly close, but must have been a good five miles away. Halfway along this ridge we came to a flattish saddle, which at one time had been cleared for a hut still standing but being reclaimed by the bush, as the regrowth of tall saplings pressed hard on the walls in a slow but relentless increase in girth and numbers. There also appeared to be no water, apart from one or two rain puddles, along the ridge until we came to a second hut and an earth tank that on the previous occasion had been bone dry; but this time was full of water. Seven o'clock, next morning, we were down at the gap ready to commence the day-long climb of three-and-half thousand feet up the Eskdale Spur, a longer though easier alternative way to Mt. Bogong than that of the Staircase Spur. At first we climbed one of the steepest jeep tracks every cut. After the first five-hundred feet, the track then went over a series of high knobs, swinging away from the mountain for a while. But there were some fine views of mountainous country around Mt. Wills to please the eye before the track again swung round the great arc of the spur. About halfway we dropped to a nice grassy saddle where the jeep track ended. Then it was a two-and-a-half hour climb to the top. Soon after lunch, we were back on familiar ground, again looking over the northern ranges we had traversed in the last five days. Page Twenty-two WALK Clear a space of ten feet around and above the fire.

Keep the fire small.

Be sure it is ex­ tinguished be. fore you leave.

and smokers • • • make sure your cigareHe or match is OUT before. throwing it away.

FORESTS COMMISSION OF

WALK Page Twenty-three A WALKING MENU

Doug and Robyn Pocock

Keen readers of walking literature will often read advice of what, and how much to carry in the way of food. In this article we do not intend to go into lists of weights and calorific values, but, as people who think meals are to be enjoyed and not just eaten to keep the body going, we intend to give our views on cooking. Undoubtedly, many people will disagree with us, as, especially with walkers, one man's meat is another man's poison. We are also referring to extended walks, not weekends when weight doesn't matter so much. For us, breakfast is usually porridge made from rolled oats. Easy to make, water is simply boiled, salt to taste and oats added, left to simmer a few minutes at the consistency preferred and, presto! a very satisfying meal. If a small stove is used for the porridge making, it can easily be prepared when lying in a sleeping bag on a cold wet morning. A small plastic shaker, useful also as a cup, is ideal for mixing milk. Raw sugar, rather than white, and a few sultanas added to the porridge make a tasty variation. Oats can be left to soak overnight. In the morning add a little flour and egg-powder, and fry the mixture in small cakes. If porridge tends to pall, another good breakfast dish is "Gran­ bits". These take some getting used to, but have the advantage of less bulk than other cereals. Lunch is a meal that is best kept small with high energy con­ centration, as lunch tends to be near a creek, and, hence, a climb out which is not good on a heavily filled stomach. Biscuits of the crisp-bread variety are universally used, though mainly as a medium for transferring spreads from container to stomach. We find the best spreads are honey and peanut butter, both highly nutritious and easily carried. Air-sealing plastic containers are readily available. Cheese and cabana sausage play a great part in our lunch, though many people don't care for the latter. A handful of scroggin is also excellent at lunch time. This dessert usually varies with the maker's whim; from sultanas alone to a mixture of dried fruits, nuts, glucose, brown sugar, wheat hearts etc. Finished off with a few squares of chocolate, and a fruit-saline drink, we find this a very satisfying meal. The evening meal is our biggest for the day. Dehyd. stew is the true and tested standby, simple to make by merely boiling for twenty minutes or so. To this we add cabana, marmite, Oxo cubes, sultanas or soup powder. Dumplings, made of flour and salt mixed with water to a fairly stiff paste, rolled into balls, are sometimes boiled together with the stew. Another way to eat dehyd. is to cook it in the usual manner, drain, and then fry it with some sultanas and chopped-up almonds. A pinch of mixed herbs is very useful here. As dried meats are readily available now spaghetti-and-meat sauce often appears on our menu. We find spaghetti spirals best as they curry well and are more easily eaten than the normal "worms". Page Twenty-four WALK We cook the meat to form a thick sauce, add sultanas and mixed herbs, and pour over the cooked spaghetti. If we find mushrooms in our travels these also go into the sauce. Dried meat can also be cooked with an excess of water, and cooked dehyd. cabbage added. The mixture can then be thickened with dehyd. potato to a consistency of normal mashed potato. Curry is an excellent addition to this dish. We have found this meal to be the best when working on a "choofer" as it is quick to prepare and needs only one billy. We carry three billies between the two of us. With that number it is a simple matter to make a meal of stew from dried meat, mashed potato and other vegetables. After the first course comes the sweets where an imaginative cook can work wonders. Pancakes, our favourite, made with wholemeal flour, and with about half as much in quantity of each of the following: sugar, milk-powder, egg-powder, together with salt, mixed to a smooth not-too-runny mixture. The secret of pancake cooking is ensuring the pan is hot enough before putting in the mixture. If margarine is used, when it starts to smoke slightly, the pan is hot enough. The mixture is poured into the pan which should remain hot, otherwise the pancake sticks. When bubbles start forming on the top, it is then turned and fried till light-brown, then eaten hot with honey, sugar or jam. Sultanas or pre-soaked apple rings are excellent additions. If the flour is self-raising, the same mixture can be made stiffer and baked to give a cake. Custard powder makes good flavouring. We are lucky in possessing a small billy with a tight-fitting lid which makes an excellent oven when buried in coals, especially when a piece of greased paper is placed in the bottom. This also makes good dampers without the risk of charring them as when they are cooked straight in the coals. We find cakes take about twenty minutes to balc:e, and damper slightly less. The same basic mixture also makes a beaut steamed pudding. We favour chocolate (cocoa) flavouring. Once again a fairly stiff mixture is made and poured into a suitable container and steamed in a billy for thirty minutes or so. The small pudding steamers are best, but we use our small billy inside a larger one for steaming. It's marvellous to have a hot chocolate steamed pudding in the middle of the bush. Rice also makes a good pudding when cooked with sultanas, dried apricots or dried apples. For those who like their rice washed, it is best to wash the rice out with cold water before cooking. Creamed rice is made by cooking the rice in milk with a little sugar, instead of water. Instant pudding is a good addition to rice. Once again the shaker is invaluable. In the summer this is very tasty as a cool sweet, especially with some dried fruit. So we often soak fruit in the shaker while we are walking. By using the above dishes we find we can have well over a week in the bush and not have the same evening menu twice, yet not carrying packs any heavier than if we had an unvaried diet. As mentioned earlier, probably some people will not agree with our dishes, but still we hope that we have given some new ideas for more variation in your cooking. Remember, imagination is the greatest asset in your epicurean experimentation. Good cooking! WAlK Page Twenty-five NEW ZEALAND'S MILFORD TRACK By Marion Siseman

Have you ever been on an extended trip and wished you could have done it without a heavy pack? Ever wished for a comfortable hut on a stormy night when you've had to battle with your tent in the wind and the rain? Ever wished you could sit straight down to a large dinner at the end of a tiring and energetic day's walk? Then come with me on the Milford Track-the "Bushwalker's holiday". What to bring? Besides your usual walking clothes just a toothbrush and a change of clothes. Don't forget the camera-there'll be some pretty spectacular scenery. We begin at Te Anau in the south-west of South Island, with a two and a half hour trip up Lake Te Anau to the beginning of the Track. We are surrounded by mountains as soon as we step ashore, for this is Fiordland, where ice of past ages has carved the land into a tangled mass of deep narrow valleys and high rugged walls. Majestic all right, and we'll have three days walking in it-up one narrow valley to its head, over a pass, and down into another narrow valley to the sea at Milford Sound. We stay the first night at Glade House near the beginning of the Track. Here we meet the rest of the party, thirty-six assorted bodies, none of them bushwalkers but all active people. Some of them are middle-aged, and the oldest man in sixty-five. Next morning, after a large breakfast, we set out in perfect weather to follow the Clinton River upstream. Everyone sets their own pace, as slow or fast as they like. The Clinton is a beautiful crystal-clear stream. We can see every stone on the bottom. Look at those huge brown trout lying motionless there! Delicate dark green beech trees frame mountain views upstream and down. The beech forest is thick, and full of birds calling. A hut appears in a clearing welcoming us with open door and smoking chimney. It's Six Mile Inn, our lunch stop. The track hand has the billy on inside but let's sit in the sun to eat our sandwiches. Watch out for wekas, the bantam-like Maori hens! They'll poke curiously in your pack or undo your bootlaces given half-a-chance. Off again. The forest is thinning out now and we can see more of the valley. On both sides the rock rises sheer to about 6,000 feet­ at least a mile above us. A number of waterfalls cascade hundreds of feet down to the valley. One of these drops into Hidden Lake in a depression at the side of the valley. It is a delightful spot. You may swim in it if you like-if you can stand the freezing water. Mid­ afternoon we arrive at Pompolona Huts. The valley has narrowed and there is only flat ground enough for them to be built end on end. The clear lazy Clinton is now a tumbling stream. A few miles ahead is its beginning and the sheer wall of the McKinnon Pass-but that's for tomorrow. Just now we've time to explore some snow-caves cut by streams into avalanche snow at the foot of the cliffs, and time to enjoy some of the wildflowers. The many varieties of Celmisia are rather striking. Page Twenty-si• WALK McKinnon Poss. Photo by Courtesy of N.Z. Govt. Tourist Bureou.

Before dinner the packhorses arrive from Glade House with the fresh bread and meat. Once, everything was brought in this way but now most things are flown in by helicopter at the beginning of the tourist season. The evening's entertainment is provided by Harry the Kea, a large olive-green parrot and surely the most mischievous bird ever created. Harry dances up and down on a railing outside, has his supper of butter offered on a spoon, then craftily provokes some of his audience to play. Watch this chap giving Harry his matches. Harry won't give them back either. He's taking them from rock to rock down the river with the poor man after him. Next day we set off for McKinnon Pass. The track is very well graded and we reach the top easily. Some of the older folk do not find it so easy though. The view is magnificent. From one side we look straight down the Clinton valley. It hardly has a bend in it. Pompolona Huts are tiny red specks. A short walk to the other side of the Pass reveals a cliff plunging thousands of feet into the Arthur valley. A little group of orange specks, the Quintin Huts, is our destination for the night. Jagged peaks rise up on all sides, clouds swirl about the tops, snowfields glisten on mountains, blue cracks in the white show where there is ice. We lunch at Pass Hut amid the grassy hillocks and brown tams on the top. To descend we have four miles of rocky track skirting around the top of a huge sheer cirque, crossing wild streams, and descending past tumbling waterfalls.

WALK Page Twenty-seven At last we reach Quintin Huts. Don't stop outside. Those minute biting beasties called sandfties, found everwhere in the New Zealand bush, are particularly vicious here. Next day we can explore or rest. There are dozens of attractive falls but the highlight is the Sutherland Falls. One of the highest in the world, it drops 1,904 feet in three stages, a plunge, a cascade, and a plummet into a green pool. The last stage of the walk is down the Arthur valley. It is not quite as straight a valley as the Clinton but is alike in its grand scenery. By mid-afternoon we reach Sandfty Point, most aptly named, to await the arrival of the launch that will take us across Milford Sound to the settlement on the delta of the Cleddau River. It is im­ possible to walk any further. The mountains, some over a mile high, fall sheer into the Sound. The only flat land is the delta of the Arthur River and that of the Cleddau. We have finished the walk, a very easy thirty-three miles in three days but a wonderful experience, especially for most of the party who had never done any walking in the bush. What an asset such a track would be in Australia to enable people to more fully appreciate our diminishing bush! Perhaps the well-worn track through Tasmania's Cradle Mountain Reserve would be an ideal one to convert. • • • • •

THREATENED DESTRUCTION OF LAKE PEDDER In 1955, 59,000 acres in the South-West of Tasmania was declared, by an Act of Parliament, as a scenic reserve, protecting the natural scenic beauty and native flora and fauna from unwanted exploitation. Now this area is threatened by the proposed Gordon River Power Development which will mean flooding Lake Pedder and most of the National Park, including a vast area of button grass, to a depth of fifty feet. It is interesting to note what the Report of the 1967 Biological Survey in the Lake Pedder Area has to say. "The uniformity of the button-grass plains acts as an ecological barrier to the spread of many species of mammals-for example no introduced species of mammals such as the rabbit were found in the area. For this reason plus the lack of agricultural and pastoral usage of the land, the area probably acts as a stronghold for many native species of mammals and birds which are rare or in declining numbers elsewhere." Because so much is at stake the Save Lake Pedder National Park Committee has been formed. The Committee membership is open to the general public, and appeals to all responsible people who have an active interest in Australia's National Parks for their support. The main aim of the Committee is to preserve the natural character of Lake Pedder National Park, of which there is no equal in Australia, and to guard against the wasteful exploitation of that unique scenic region. Save Lake Pedder National Park Committee, P.O. Box 440, Devon­ port, Tasmania. Page Twenty-eight WALK NEW ZEALAND THICK PURE WOOL SHIRTS

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Page Thirty WALK OUR MOUNTAINS IN WINTER John Brownlie

With the first snows many walkers turn their backs on our mountains and head for the warmer parts of the State. In doing this, they ignore what should be the height of bushwalking experience-the testing of their knowledge and capabilities in an element of challenge. This means, therefore, that a venture into the mountains should not be undertaken lightly. The risk of accident is ever present, and what might be considered of minor importance elsewhere can develop into a major calamity under extreme conditions. Our mountains are scattered with huts, and a knowledge of their location and that of the general topography-gained during summer walking-provide a good basis on which to plan a trip. Access can be achieved in several different ways: by walking, by snow-shoes, or by cross-country skis. However, these methods are not equally suitable in all conditions. Much depends on the terrain and type of mountains. Snow-shoes or skis are useless in slopes covered with fallen timber and undergrowth. Likewise, walking is impractical on open country such as the . It is, however, of great importance that the group be equipped in the same way to enable the party to keep together. Equipment must be given the utmost consideration. First and foremost, hands and feet should be able to function efficiently at all times. Greasy wool mittens are preferable to gloves, as each finger helps to keep the others warm; one woollen glove is useful for tasks requiring use of fingers. Waterproof over-mittens are essential. Two pairs of thick woollen socks should be worn with waterproof boots. Spare socks must be carried and these can also serve as extra mitts. Puttees are valuable, keeping the lower leg warm, and snow out of the boots. Long woollen trousers (loose-fitting) with long underpants should be worn in preference to stretch pants; waterproof overpants should be carried. A string singlet, T-shirt and thick woollen shirt are preferable to many jumpers. A good waterproof parka, woollen hat and snow-goggles complete the minimum list of clothing. Don't forget the waterbottle, as you become very thirsty in snow. At no time should a person venture into the mountains alone. A group of not less than three (ideally four) should be formed. This is a safety measure in the event of an accident, and allows the sharing of food and equipment, thus lessening the weight to be carried. Camping in the snow presents many problems. The snow itself should be used it its best advantage, and, with care, a comfortable camp can be made. Time is an important factor when making camp; each individual must work efficiently and co-operatively. A small fire-shovel is used to dig out a large hole, in which the tent is pitched, and the deeper the hole the more protection it provides. With the tent pitched, a further twelve inches can be dug out of the floor to give more head room. Skis, stocks, logs, snowgums, and plastic bags filled with snow can be used to anchor your guys. With further experience snow caves and igloos can be considered. Fires can WALK Page Thirty-one Winter Scene in the . Photo by G. Noddin. usually be lit amongst snowgums; break the dead branches from the trees, for these provide ample wood which is dry on the inside and easily combustible. Split these branches, as sharp corners catch the flames more quickly than round sticks. Fuel stoves, used with care, are a handy alternative especially in bad weather. When the camp is well settled and the evening meal over, attention can then be given to your clothing which is probably damp from perspiration and snow. It is a great temptation to dry clothing close to a fire-socks on a stick, boots on a rock-but tragedy can occur with the smell of burning socks, or, worse, scorching leather. Your boots could mean your life; look after them for they are the most important part of your equipment. Never leave then lying around camp, but wrap them in your parka on retiring, keeping them near your body during the night to stop them from freezing. The safest and surest way of drying your socks and mittens is in your sleeping bag. With your hands and feet in dry socks, pull your wet clothing over them, and in the morning all your socks will be dry. Warmth when sleeping is most important, and so a good sleeping bag is essential. Insulation from the snow can be provided in several ways. One of the most efficient methods is to use a length of sponge rubber, four feet long, one inch thick. Though a little more bulky than the familiar air mattress it is lighter, and is impossible to puncture. These are the essentials to bear in mind when travelling in the snow-country, and only experience will increase your knowledge. Where to go? The scope is endless: Kosciusko-Bogong-Bogong High Plains-Snowy Plains to Wellington-then south to Tasmania. Use these mountains, but always with respect, and in them you will find great companionship and the treasures of our most beautiful country. Page Thirty-two WALK WILDFLOWERS OF AUTUMN & WINTER Rex and Sue Filson Perhaps autumn and winter are not the best seasons to go looking for wildflowers, but those of us who enjoy walking during these months will be rewarded greatly by the gems of plant life that can be found. Together with those that have their flowering time during this period are many more that bloom from summer into early autumn, and from the late winter into spring.

The Orchids We usually think of spring as being the orchid season, but a large number of our native orchids flower during the autumn and winter. The largest group of these are the Greenhoods ( Pterostylis). The first to make an appearance is usually the Tiny Greenhood, P. parviflora 3, whilst the Nodding Greenhood, P. nutans 2, flowers in the late winter and into spring. The Autumn Greenhood, P. reflexa 1, is also seen in the autumn. P. nutans grows throughout Victoria; the other two Greenhoods do not grow in the North-West. Parsons Bands, Eriochilus cucullatus, and the Bird Orchids, Chiloglottis, flower in autumn, whilst the Mosquito Orchids, Acianthus, and the Helmet Orchids, Corybas, flower in winter. The Pea-Flowers Pea-flowers are not found in great abundance during this period as they prefer the warmer weather. However, two may be seen throughout Victoria in the late winter through to summer. The Purple Coral Pea, Hardenbergia violacea 4, is to be found twining around the undergrowth and climbing over fallen timber, covering every­ thing with its bright purple blossom. The other plant is the Common Hovea, H ovea heterophylla 5, a small shrub, which also has pale violet to purple flowers. The Eucalypts The Eucalypt is perhaps a little large to be called a "wild-flower" but as it makes such a beautiful display during the autumn and winter a short note should not be out of place. Eucalyptus sideroxylon 6, occurs in the North and Central Victoria, South-East , and the . It is a tree of moderate height commonly obtaining 100 feet. The flowers are creamy white to purplish. The Messmate, E. obliqua, flowers in the early autumn. It is widespread in Victoria, particularly in the Grampians and the Otway Ranges. Another widespread tree growing around Melbourne, Beechworth, the Alps and the Grampians, is the Long Leaf Box, E. goniocalyx. In the Mallee areas WALK Page Thirty-three of the North-East and North-West, E. microcarpa, is to be found. Both these Eucalypts have creamy white blooms. The Wattles Wattles ( Acacia) form the largest group of Australian plants. Their flowers vary in colour from cream to bright yellow and can be found in all seasons. Their main flowering period com­ mences in the late winter. Acacia suaveolens has showy blooms during the winter and autumn. It grows everywhere except the North-East. A. diUusa found throughout Victoria, is a small spreading shrub with stiff narrow leaves. A. botrycephala 7, is conspicuous in Eastern Victoria with its large creamy to lemon flowers. A. stenophylla 8, found only in the North-West, has narrow leaves up to sixteen inches long and has a drooping habit. The Proteads The Proteads are often called "The Grevillea family". Most Grevilleas flower during the spring, however G. lavandulacea can usually be seen flowering during the late winter. The member of the family that makes its show during the autumn and into the early winter, is the Banksias. B. integrifolia is the sturdy knarled tree of the foreshores. B. marginata, found in the coastal ranges is a smaller edition of the above. B. spinulosa 9, is a light spreading shrub growing all over Victoria with the exception of "' the far North-West. -M".F"'~ The Heaths The heaths are a very important constituent of our flora, particularly in the coastal forests. They comprise about fifty species in Victoria. The common heath, Epacris impressa 10, flowers throughout the autumn, winter and into spring. It is rarely found north of the Dividing Range. The bearded heaths, Leucopogon sp., have small white to pale pink flowers, the insides of which are filled with dense matted hairs. The broom­ heath Monotoca scoparia 11, also blooms during the autumn. It is an erect shrub up to three feet high, covered with small pink or white bell-like flowers. Other Small Shrubs Correa reflexa 12, grows throughout Victoria. It is a variable plant but is usually a small shrub up to six feet high. The flowers are bell-like, ranging from half to inch and a half in length, and vary in colour from crimson to green. In the North-West and drier parts of the state, the Shrub violet, Hybanthus floribundus, with its spreading slender stems and small pale blue or violet flowers is seen. State-wide Dodonaea cuneata blooms in the winter with inconspicuous flowers. This small tree is more noticeable in the spring when its enlarged seed-pods give it a reddish hue. Page Thirty-four WALK The Myrtles The family Myrtaceae includes the largest part of our bushland flowers, e.g. Eucalypts, Bottle­ brushes, and Myrtles. The Bushy Heath-myrtle, Thryptomene calycina 13, is found at Mt. Ara­ piles and on the peaks of the Grampians. It has white to pale pink flowers in the late winter. Baeckea ramosissima, Rosy Heath-myrtle, with its small rosy pink flowers and short trailing stems is also seen blooming in the late winter in the Grampians as well as in the Alps. Callistemon citrinus, the Common Crimson Bottle-brush flowers around Melbourne and Gippsland during this period. The Herbs Small herbs and annuals are Spring flowers, hut two make their appearance in the late winter. Drosera whittakeri 14, is a small plant which is carnivorous. The leaves arc covered with short hairs that secrete sticky digestive juices, trapping ants and small flies. The plant uses the insects to obtain nitrogen which is deficient in the soil. Anguillaria dioica 15, commonly known as Early Nancy, is one of the first spring flowers to bloom. Its flowers are white to pink. Both these herbs are found all over the State in great abundance. The Daisies The Daisy family, Compositae, is the largest family of flowering plants, containing about 900 genera and 12,000 species, which is about one­ tenth of the whole. Helichrysum elatum 16, varies from a herb one foot high to a shrub six to eight feet high, it is confined to . In the late winter the small perennial, H elipterum corymbiflorum 17, is seen, and at its best will cover hillsides in North and West Victoria with its showy white everlasting daisy flowers. Others that flower at this time are Olearia ramulosa, 0. glandulosa, H elichrysum cinereum, and Lep­ torrynchus linearis. The Climbers Of the two climbers that are seen during these seasons the most showy is Clematis aristata 18, with its white or cream coloured flowers. It is widespread in Victoria often near river hanks or in the humid gullies of the Ranges. Fieldia australis 19, is confined to South and East Vic­ toria. It can he found in shady spots, often on the trunks of Treeferns in the gullies of Wilson's Promontory. The flowers are greenish-yellow and are drooping. As well as looking for wild flowers, autumn and winter are the best seasons to look for the lowly plants of the gullies-the Fungi, Lichens, Liver­ worts and Mosses.

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Page Thirty-six WALK 2.4 HOUR WALK

Shirley Treloar

It was during the month of May, one Saturday afternoon-2 p.m. to be precise-when, just after we had left the vans, a blast from the starter's shotgun shattered the peace of the Pyalong countryside. The alert walkers were off and away immediately, leaving us wondering how 200 people could disappear so quickly. Delaying no longer, we visualized the direction to take and hurdled our first fence. Then carefully watching our footing we came to a log spanning a dried-up creek bed. On the far side a high barbed­ wire fence awaited us. It brought one fellow to the ground as he scrambled over it in an odd fashion. The casualty lay still. His group rushed to his aid. Fortunately he soon recovered; but one girl didn't even make the second fence, catching her foot in a rabbit hole and spraining her ankle. This was the start of the 24-hours walk, a yearly event run by the Melbourne University Mountaineering Club. This year the participants were divided up into 70 groups of three categories-male, female and mixed. Our mixed group of seven represented the Melbourne Bushwalkers. Along the route we had to find a series of checkpoints where we would sign our names, and record times of arrival, all on the half of a raffle ticket. There were also hash houses set up so as to provide the necessary calories in the form of pies, soup, fruit etc. We found the first checkpoint 2.4 miles away over open paddocks, climbing up to 1,115 feet. Although there were 22 groups ahead, our leader set a sure and steady pace like the tortoise in the fable. We lagged miles behind the ''hares" who skipped and ran towards the second checkpoint at the six-mile point. Further on there were many barbed-wire fences to climb, creeks to wade, rabbit-holes to avoid, and chocolates to nibble, while all the way our appointed time-keeper regularly announced the end of each ten-minutes. On reaching the fifth checkpoint we found the first hash house complete with food ready for the eating. As we sat down to the soup and meat pies, moonlight streamed down from a roof of stars. After twenty minutes rest we again took up our steady pace-right into a swamp where the reeds tickled our ears. It was a strange combination of slippery logs, muddy water and sudden depressions. The thought of becoming lost was never entertained, certainly not during the night when each person had a torch flashing up and down, thereby indicating some interesting positions-a picture-carpet of moving lights. The finding of checkpoints required some subtleness from torch­ bearers: "Quick, out with the light. Someone's coming." Sneaky business this. From Vickery's Hill a stretch of 31 miles to a small bridge and then on to the ninth checkpoint which was also hash house the second. The menu seemed a gourmet's delight. And they saw to it that none starved. After the best three-course supper in years we left reluctantly and pressed on. WALK Page Thirty-seven The boots breezed over another 5! miles, reaching a road bend before approaching Mt. Lookout at 1,598 feet. Again we were at the hash house where there was oatmeal for breakfast. At sunrise brilliant reds and orange-colours lit the horizon. Frost glistened in the young sunlight, the air was fresh and crisp, and there were three miles of the lush-grass paddocks. Sheep and cattle were grazing. A new bridge over the railway was the 15th checkpoint. From there the course followed a road, a slight spur, a track, another road, a ford at Mollison's Creek-this being checkpoint No. 16. Tired feet in the cool water, faces now clean, but the eyes glassy and still bloodshot. Something about the morning after the night before. Then on reaching a small hut we had an half-hour's rest in the sun. The legs gradually stiffened and were harder to coax along. From the hut 4! miles of farm land where sheep and cattle grazed. A small marshy patch, normally an obstacle, became just part of the fun of frolicking ever forward. Although there were 23 checkpoints, the 19th was enough for us after lasting out the 24 hours. We skipped over a bridge to the vans and flopped down, very glad to stop and rest after 52 miles.

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Page Thirty-eight WALK WALKS SECTION­ WILSON'S PROMONTORY

(Northern Half)

Wilson's Promontory has been and, it is hoped, will always be a favourite area for walkers. During the A.N.A. long weekend of last year a large party of Melbourne Bushwalkers arrived there, bent on exploring the northern and north-eastern sections of the park which are illustrated in the accompanying map. All the following observations, made by different members, are a result of the three-day "invasion".

a•••• ::····~~~~. H~• .. CORN£..R INL.U d} J!;" ~ MtM-,r,_~~ _,---~~,~ ~ ..~.~ -;~/',~,;l

Scale: I inch = 5 miles.

1. PORT WELSHPOOL-MT. HUNTER-FIVE MILE BEACH One party arrived about midnight at Port Welshpool where they had contracted with Mr. Arthur Smith, of that town, to ferry them across to Chinaman's Beach on Corner Inlet. To make an approach to the remote side of the park by sea has much to recommend it, but care should be taken in regard to the economics of the hiring, for charges are made per boat load, not number of passengers. The Approach by Sea It is said that the ways of men of the sea are governed by the turn of the tide, and this being no less true for than else- WALK Page Thirty-nine where, the appointed time of sailing may be at the most unlikely hour. Our party left at 6 a.m. and made the 2! hours crossing in fair weather. If it had been rough the crossing could have been postponed, or, more likely, cancelled and land transport used instead. The cutter made landfall by the ruined jetty at Tin Mine Point on the eastern shore of Corner Inlet, directly opposite Granite Island. Conveniently, for those who liked to eat breakfast, a fresh water stream was found at nearby Chinaman's Long Beach.

Description of the Route The walk commences with an immediate climb up through thick scrub and over Tin Mine Hill (580 ft.) the headland at the northern end of Chinaman's Long Beach, and down a spur of light scrub and banksia to a saddle. The hill is an outlier of the granite-crowned Mt. Hunter (1,142 ft.) rising across the intervening saddle in the south­ east. The first ascent is up to the heathy plain surrounding the mountain, then an easterly course is taken to a conspicuous grouping of granite tors. From the outcrop head southwards up the spur, encountering scrub just below the open summit of rough grasses. The view is good from the S.E., through south, east, to N.E., though the eastern view is somewhat dimmed by big trees growing on the sheltered N. E. side. It is said that, on a very clear day, Flinders Island can be seen to the south-east. The way off the mountain is down a S.S.E. spur, firstly through light scrub, then open heath. The country gradually levels out, and then the route is along an undulating ridge line (S.S.E.) finally descending to a plain of heath and grasses in the saddle between Mt. Hunter and Mt. Margaret. A jeep track cuts through this plain, coming in from the west and climbing to a small hill in the S.E. on which there is a navigation beacon and light. The track then turns east for a mile, ending at a second beacon situated on the cliffs at the northern end of Three Mile Beach. If descending straight down to the beach from the light, care should be taken not to deviate too far to the left (E.) because of the cliffs. From the first mentioned light (inland) there is good walking going south via the heathlands, over Mt. Margaret, and out along the ridge line towards Mt. Roundback (1,029 ft.). It is easy to make the mistake of sidling the sheltered eastern slopes of this latter mountain instead of going over the top. Very slow progress will be made through the heavy scrub and fallen logs on the eastern side. However it is possible to drop to the forestry road which sidles the south-western flanks of the mountain and eventually joins the main fire access road further south. An alternative way south is by the east coast starting with a walk along Three Mile Beach to its southern end where the brackish water of Three Mile Creek, which drains the north-eastern slopes of Mt. Roundback, discharges into the sea. Just south of the creek the coast is rock-bound for !- mile, but negotiable at low tide to a small beach at whose southern end rises another headland separating it from Johnnie Suey's Cove. Again, at low tide it is possible to walk around the rocks, otherwise it means scrub-bashing over the top. At the southern end of Johnnie Suey's Cove two creeks discharge into the sea, the northern one being brackish. Fresh water may be Page Forty WALK VISIT THE OUTBACK IN 1968 MA. Y to SEPTEMBER Make your next holiday a camping coach holiday to Central Australia. DA.RWIN-A.LICE SPRINGS . . $11 0. 23 days, via Bourke, Mt. lsa, Tennant Creek, Darwin, Katherine, Alice Springs, Ayers Rock. Coober Pedy, Woomera and Adelaide. CA.IRNS-DA.RWIN-A.LICE SPRINGS .. $150. 30 days, via Gold Coast, Barrier Reef, Cairns, Atherton Tableland. Normanton, Mt. lso, Darwin, Alice Springs, Ayers Rock, Coober Pedy and Adelaide. MT. ISA.-BIRDSVILLE TRACK . . $90. 16 days. Special Safari Tour through outback Queensland. Apply for information to:- CENTRALIAN TOURS 407 BA.Y ROAD, CHELTENHAM, VICTORIA., PH. 95-6969 or VICTORIAN TOURIST BUREAU, PH. 63-0202

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WALK Page Forty-one obtained from the second a short distance upstream. Between the creeks a jeep track commences, climbing up to the S.W., then over the southern shoulder of Mt. Roundback, and, in less than 3 miles, meets the fire access road which runs from Darby River to Five Mile Beach. About 2 miles from Johnnie Suey's Cove the track divides, but the two branches reunite in half-a-mile. Shortly after this a branch road is met on the right (W.) making a short cut to the above-mentioned forestry road, which meets the cove track at the same point on the fire access road so forming what may be described as an A-junction. (See map.)

Approach to Five Mile Beach. Not to scale.

From this junction the fire access road descends to the east for about one mile to the swampy Hats which back Five Mile Beach, where a jeep track continues across Miranda Creek and to the beach. The campsite is under the high ridge at the northern end of the beach where Miranda Creek enters the sea. Care should be taken in the choice of campsite, as at high tide the sandy part of the Miranda Creek inlet is under water. Fresh water can be obtained from a small tributary on the northern side of Miranda Creek. Time: A full day is required to cover the distance of about 13 miles.

2. FIVE MILE BEACH-THE CAffiEDRAL-SEALERS' COVE Five Mile Beach is one of the least spoiled beaches in Victoria. At low tide it is fairly easy for walking, and it is possible to walk the full length of beach in I! hours. There is fresh water at several places just behind the high sandy shoreline at whose southern end Freshwater Lake makes an excellent campsite. The Cathedral Start from the first few rocks at the southern end of Five Mile Beach and follow the ridges all the way up to the summit of The Cathedral, scrub all the way, thick in places. For the first two-thirds of the way there is timber and occasional sword and wire grass. The last section is mainly tea-tree and prickly bushes. About one-third of the way up, smooth rock slabs, which are visible from Five Mile Beach, oHer some good views. Above the rocks the climb flattens out for a while. Keep S.W. for about 200 yards, then climb straight towards the summit (W.) from where there is a good round view of the park.

Page Forty-two WALK The Cathedral to Sealers' Cove From the summit take a S.E. course along the ridge on which there are three smaller rocky knobs, one of them having huge boulders resembling a castle. The view of Sealers' Cove from the last knob is the best that can be obtained of it, for it appears to be directly below the observer. From the third knob the ridge drops steeply S.E. Do not leave the ridge too early, but continue down to a point (second small shoulder-see diagram) above large rock slabs sloping down towards Sealers' Cove. Aim for the rocks-around them the scrub is not so thick-or walk down on them. Slowly tend towards the right, but do not come down too close to the beach. The best way is to descend to rocks about 300 yards from the beach. A fresh water creek flows down the hill and can be heard under the rocks about 50 yards from the sand. Clearings in the bushes nearby will be found to take about 10 tents.

NOTE Depending on party and weather, from 5 to 10 hours should be allowed for this section. Dry-carry water all the way. Sealers' Cove-Telegraph Saddle Track commences halfway along beach, and is easy to follow being in very good condition. Strong walkers should complete this section in 2! hours. FURTHER READING: An account of a walk around Corner Inlet and over The Cathedral is given in the article "The Toe of the Promontory"" which was published in '"Walk" 1952, vol. 3. Copies are still available.

3. CORNER INLET-VEREKER RANGE-YANAKIE ISTHMUS There is a choice of two or three overland routes to the north­ eastern parts of the promontory. The reverse of what has just been described, i.e. taking the overland track to Sealers' Cove and then working northwards, would probably appeal only to those with the necessary capabilities, and patience, required for the rough terrain. An alternative route is via the Fire Access Road (F.A.R.) which runs in an east-west line across the widest part of the promontory-where the countryside is more gentle. It is an earth road leading to the more remote and little visited areas of the park, and has very little motor traffic, as private vehicles are normally denied access to it. A further advantage is that the F.A.R. may be joined at several places along the -Foster road, thus allowing the walk to be varied as desired. WALK Page Forty-three The main vehicular turn-off is just south of a major west-to-south bend in the main road 4! miles north of Darby River. About a mile south of this point will be found the start of an older track, and can be seen marked on the survey map. Both old and new roads join at a gate, an entrance to the national park, 11 miles north-west of the bitumen. On the other (eastern) side of the gate a northern track descends in one mile to the southern most bay of Corner Inlet, while a southern extension of the F.A.R. taking a seven mile circuitous course links up with a track leading to Darby River. (Described later.) After leaving the gate, the F.A.R. climbs over the shoulder of a spur which runs W.N.W from the Vereker Range towards Corner Inlet, and then sidles along the lower slopes of the range until, 3~ miles from the gate, a branch of Barry's Creek is reached. At this point there is a second gate, and a hundred yards further on is a locked hut. Continuing on, the second and third branches of the same stream are crossed, and in a further 2 miles a tributary of Chinaman's Creek is also crossed. All these streams contain fresh water. For the next 4! miles the road follows a low undulating ridge, through an area where there is every chance of seeing kangaroos, wallabies and emus, until it comes to the earlier mentioned A-junction. From here it is 2 miles to the Five Mile Beach campsite as previously described. A person wanting to make the return trip in one day should allow 10 to 12 hours for the 27 miles. The long daylight hours of summer would probably be the best time for such a trip. However, there are a number of interesting shorter walks out along the road. A day's walk of medium exertion could be undertaken by climbing to the lookout rock on the Vereker Range. The turnoff for the lookout has been obliterated by the making of the new road. As already mentioned, the F.A.R. climbs over the shoulder of the spur after leaving the first gate. By continuing to climb along this spur, the track should soon be picked up. The lookout is almost in the centre of the northern part of the promontory and commands a fine view of Corner Inlet and Bass Strait as well as Mts. Roundback and Hunter, and in the distance, the Strzelecki Ranges. It would be inadvisable to continue past the lookout as the ridge soon becomes very rough and covered in dense scrub. Instead of returning to the gate, the walk could be varied by finish­ ing at Darby River. Returning from the lookout, drop S.W. off the ridge when the southern extension of the F.A.R. can be seen ~ mile away. Make for this road which traverses the foot of the Vereker Range by swinging in a pronounced easterly arc. Fresh-water creeks cross the road. After 3 miles the road turns west to cross a large swampy plain with scattered and stunted cover. The track is white sand, black clay, then red sand as correspond­ ingly it traverses the range, crosses the rain shadow area, and then climbs along the sheltered side of bracken-covered sand dunes. As the coastal dunes are approached some fascinating rock formations can be discerned on the scrubby slopes of the distant Latrobe Range where it rises from the fiat country in the south. One group of triangular shaped tors bears a startling resemblance to that terrifying prehistoric creature, the giant Tyrannosaurus Rex, advancing down the mountainside. Page Forty-four WALK H. MARTYR PTY. LTD. WARBURTON- LILYDALE-MELBOURNE PASSENGER SERVICE • Warburton-Melbourne 3 Times Daily

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287 INKERM.AN STREET, ST. KILD.A Tel.: 94-6464, 94-6465 (all hours)

WALK Page Forty-five Nearer to Darby River the vegetation thickens, and on a late after­ noon in summer perhaps the gleam of blady grass will dazzle the eye. After passing through an avenue of tea-tree, the track finishes l mile north of the Darby River Bridge. These last few miles follow more or less the foot track marked on the survey map. Another route to the eastern side of the promontory takes in part of the Yanakie Isthmus and then follows round the shores of Corner Inlet. About 10 miles north from Darby River the main road has been remade leaving a section of old road unsealed and sandy. Go down this old section looking for a narrower side road (E.) Beginning as wheel tracks, and later becoming cattle pads, the way winds in and out for a mile through fixed dunes and hummocks forming "cups". It ends at the edge of a sparsely vegetated open area, 2 or 3 square miles in extent and composed mainly of migratory sand dunes, of which the highest rises up to about 150 ft. Because of their vast size and light reflecting properties, the dunes are a conspicuous landmark for miles around. A thin belt of scrub, swampy underfoot, separates them from the shoreline where fresh water will be found trickling down in little flows to the sea. The walk is then south along the shoreline of Corner Inlet, over some magnificent beaches, until after 2 miles, the tidal estuary of the creek draining Telegraph Swamp is reached. Here it is a choice of either keeping to the coastline and wading through mud and mangroves, or of taking a narrow pad heading the creek, and then following a some­ what reedy and watery path about l mile inland. After a mile the "inland" pad rejoins the shore near the national park fence. A ! mile further east a rocky headland is passed, beyond which there is a beach fronting a tree-clad cliff. On the highest part of the cliff-top the start of two tracks will be found. The right (W.) track is the one mentioned earlier, joining the F.A.R. near the first gate. The left (E.) track joins the same road about l mile west of Barry's Creek. Continuing coastwise the way is mainly over meadowy flats and clay-pans, and a number of estuarine crossings. It is probably extremely wet after heavy rain or very high tides. The water of the creeks is very brackish but by going inland a little distance. It is sometimes possible to scoop fresh water off the top of the streams. The hinterland south of Barry's Creek makes for good cross­ country walking, up slopes of blackboy and heath and over lightly timbered hills to where the eastern sector of the F.A.R. may be joined. Corner Inlet is extremely shallow, and at low tide it is difficult to find water deep enough for a satisfactory swim. As one walks around the Inlet the view is dominated by the ranges of South Gipps­ land and those of the promontory's north-east.

Important When planning a trip to Wilson's Promontory, always inform the ranger of your intended campsites and obtain his permission. Don't forget to see that all camping fees are paid, as the maintenance of the park is largely dependent, at present, on that source of revenue. Page Forty-sil WALK 4. DARBY RIVER TO TIDAL RIVER VIA WEST COAST This is a coast walk, much of it along graded and well maintained footpaths, and takes a full day if time is spent visiting the various features of interest along the way. At the entrance of the national park there is a small camping ground with fire places just south of the Darby River bridge. Behind the camp rises a high hill, at the foot of which are the ruins of the old Darby Chalet. Just past these ruins the footpath starts, firstly by climbing steeply over the hill and across to the sea front. In less than a mile the first diversion will be met-a side trip to the little beach of Fairy Cove. A few yards from the turnoff a second side path also leads off. This is out to Tongue Point, a miniature peninsula in itself, jutting a mile or more into the troubled waters of Bass Strait, and an excellent viewpoint for Shellback and Norman Islands. Two hours or more could easily be spent on these two side trips. From the tum-off the track climbs high above the coastal cliff-scrub to enter a sheltered gully which is headed for ! mile, still climbing, until a lookout rock is gained at an altitude of nearly 500 feet.

There is also a second high point, Sparkes Lookout, a further mile south. Between the two lookouts there is a fairly deep saddle. However, the top tor of Sparkes Lookout is reached by a 1 mile-long side track which leaves the main footpath as the latter passes through sheoak forest before descending through sheltered eucalypt forest to the motor road at Darby Saddle. Here begins what is probably the most trying part of the trip-a mile's roadbash. The roadwork can be shortened by following the telephone line track, and also by cutting across the heath after sighting the next beach-Whisky Bay. The beach, which is not marked on the survey map as such, has a small freshwater creek flowing into it. At the rear of some rocks at the southern end of the bay, a pad of sorts climbs over the sandy headland to drop down to a tiny bay, beyond which there is a further headland that has to be climbed or a way found around the rocks below. Halfway along the next beach (Picnic Bay) a prominent gap in the sand hummocks faces the sea. Here, tum inland (E.) and follow a line of sand ridges for l mile. A scrub-choked gully on the right is crossed and a higher line of ridges climbed. The highest dunes are badly eroded, and, at this point, the route then swings in a southerly direction to descend the steep northern end of Leonard Bay, thus short-cutting Leonard Point. At Squeaky Beach, the southern end of the bay, a 200 ft. climb over the spur that descends to Pillar Point leads to the footbridge over Tidal River. MAP REFERENCE: NOTES COMPILED: Yanakie, military, 1:63,360. January, 1967. Wilson's Promontory, military, 1:63,360. Wilson's Promontory, Algona Guides. WALK Page Forty-seven TWO & THREE DAY WALKS

MOUNT COLE STATE FOREST Mt. Cole-Fern Tree Waterfalls-Long Gully-Lookout Hill-Vic­ toria Mill Reserve-Ben Nevis-Sibbrett's Point-Elmhurst. Transport Private. Follow the Mt. Cole Road from Raglan. Three miles out a jeep track leaves on the left climbing uphill westerly. (Free's Point Road.) Description of Route Leaving the Mt. Cole Road, the jeep track soon reaches a gate where another track leads along the fence to the left. Follow jeep track and spur west through a second gate (! mile.) Continue climbing along a rocky spur past large granite boulders and open timber, the later increasing in height and density. Before entering the timber there are good views in an eastern arc across the wooded valley of and towards Beaufort. At lk miles keep straight ahead (W.N.W. to N.W.) and avoid the road to the right (N.) In a further 200 yards avoid another track on the right. The road turns left; climb south-west to the shoulder of the spur, leave the road and follow spur through granite boulders west and north-west to Mt. Cole. (2 miles.) Look for blazed tree on summit. Follow the ridge west into a grassy saddle and on to another top (21 miles) where it swings north. Follows ridge through timber and boulders; cross a jeep track, then, after a further half mile, cross an unmade road running east-west and continue north reaching the main Mt. Cole Road (3~ miles.) Turn left and follow road west past Dairy Maid Creek Road on left (3! miles) then north-west past Cave Hill Road (4~ miles) which is also on the left, reaching Camp Road Link on the right. (4! miles.) From this point there are at least two available routes of the same distance. For an easy trip turn right for 50 yards, then left (N.) on to a walking track going through stands of Blue Gum and Ribbon Gum until meeting the Sugarloaf Road. Turn right (E. then N.W.) to reach a junction of jeep tracks amid Ribbon Gums and Messmate. Lunch spot at creek nearby. Turn left; follow jeep track upstream along the creek course through timber to Long Gully Road. Turn right and In 100 yards follow the Big Rock Road for half-a-mile to a junction with Lookout Hill Road. From the Camp Road Link the route has led through some of the best stands of tall timber in the Mt. Cole State Forest. Look for a foot track heading W.S.W. to Old Mt. Cole Road; turn left and 50 yards reach main Mt. Cole Road. Turn left and in a few yards turn right into Mugwamp Road. Climb steeply and cross Middle Creek head just before reaching Mugwamp Hut, a shelter in very good condition. (8! miles.) One hundred and fifty yards past the hut turn right on to Dawson's Rock Track; climb past a very large flat rock (NOT Dawson's) on the right. Page Forty-eight WALK Come Outdoors with YHA!

YOUTH HOSTELS ASSOCIATION OF VICTORIA YHA-"To help all, but especially young people to a greater knowledge, care, and love of the countryside, particularly by providing hostels or other simple accommodation for them in their travels . . " YHA-Has Youth Hostels at:-Broadford, Steiglit:z, Warburton, Mt. Bow Bow, Mt. Buller, Warrandyte. YHA-Members may use over 60 hostels in other States of Australia and over 4,000 hostels in some 40 countries overseas. YHA-Activities in Victoria include :-Bushwalking, Canoeing, Sailing, Horseriding, Snow Skiing, Water Skiing, Camping. YHA-Annual Membership Fees are :-Senior (over 21 years), $3. 00; Junior (under 21 years), $1.50; School, $0.75; Family, $4.50. YHA:-161 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE, 3000. PHONE 63-3754 PLEASE POST THIS COUPON FOR MORE DETAILS r To the Honorary Secretary, A Youth Hostels Association of Victoria, • 161 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, 3000. Please send me further information about YHA, plus ...... membership application forms for myself and friends. NAME......

ADDRESS ......

I am interested in TRAVEL 0· ACTIVITIES 0· "Walk" 68. L --- J WALK Page Forty-nine THE SCOUT SHOP The recognized place to purchase your Bushwalking and lightweight camping equipment.

See THE SCOUT SHOP range af: Sleeping Bags ( 27 models), H-Frame and A-Frame Packs, Hike Tents, Paddymade Bushwalking Gear, Hike Boots or Shoes, Ground Sheets and Capes, Australian and New Zealand Knife, Fork and Spoon Sets, Parkas, Canteens, Mess Kits, Food Containers, Light-weight Gas Cookers, Compasses, Flinders Ranges Camping Gear, Pedometers.

Far All Hiking and Camping Equipment call at THE SCOUT SHOP first, and ask far the latest catalogue:

City Shop 384 ELIZABETH ST., MELBOURNE, PHONE 34-5171 Bayside Shop 134 MARTIN ST., GARDENVALE, PHONE 96-1033 East Suburban Shop 4 WOODS ST., NUNAWADING, PHONE 874-4058 Somers Shop 125 STATION ST., MALVERN, PHONE 50-1878

Page Fifty WALK Description of a more diiRcult route From the junction of the Mt. Cole Road and the Camp Road Link drop steeply westwards to the picnic ground at Fern Tree Waterfalls Reserve. Climb steeply north on the east side of Middle Creek, keeping out to the right until an old and very faint track is crossed; turn left and climb steeply out of the valley of Middle Creek. There are many beautiful trees in the Reserve, mainly Messmate and Blue Gum. Climb on to Freeman's Track near the head of the valley and follow it to the junction with Mugwamp Road. Turn left and follow the latter to its junction with Dawson's Rock Track (8l miles.) Leaving the vicinity of Dawson's Rock, continue north to the main Mt. Cole Road (9! miles). Turn left along the road, avoiding the Sapling Bridge Road. Leave packs at the junction of Harvey's Flat Road. (9~ miles.) Walk east to television tower on the summit of Lookout Hill (3,178 ft.) where there are good views over the southern section of Mt. Cole Forest. Return to packs (11 miles) and continue north-west one mile to the point where the road swings sharp right (N.E.); follow jeep track to the left (W.) to Reservoir Road. Turn right (N.) and reach Sandy Pinch Road in quarter-of-a-mile (Victoria Mill Reserve.) Turn left and in a few yards turn right on to a track leading into the Reserve camping area, passing a hut just before crossing Buckingham's Creek. Campsite. The Reserve is a superb example of open Messmate forest and is well worth the exploring. Near the hut a foot track leaves to the left to go through a specimen area of Messmate, 150-200 feet high, mixed with occasional Ribbon Gums-making for some magnificent forest. Next day follow the jeep track to the main Mt. Cole Road (! mile.) Turn left and walk north-west past Water Race Road and Black Creek Road to McGuiness Road (1~ miles.) Follow this road north one mile to a junction with CoJlier's Road. Look for the ruins of an old hut nearby. A good lunch spot amid Blue Gums and Ribbon Gums. Before lunch a side trip without packs may be made to the Ben Nevis fire tower. From the McGuiness hut-site walk west i mile, passing two waterholes. 100 yards beyond the second, which is on Quartz Reef Creek, come to a track junction. Cowan's track continues west; turn right and climb north along Lookout Road to fire tower. Continue westerly 200 yards along ridge to Ben Nevis Trig. (2,876 ft.) Return to packs for lunch. (5l miles.) FoJlow Collier's Road north, crossing several heads of Hickman's Creek, and climb steadily out of Collier's Gap to Sibbrett's Hill. Near the crest of the long climb out of the gap, and where the road turns west, look for a jeep track heading downhill. Follow this track, looking on the right for a large rocky outcrop from where there is a good view of the Wimmera VaJley-the wide open spaces with the in the background. Returning to the rough jeep track the way is down to the timber's edge at Sibbrett's Point (8 miles.) Head down the steep spur across paddocks towards Elmhurst seen distantly in the north-east. Follow a creek course and a jeep track to farm roads, eventually reaching Ehnhurst on the Pyrenees Highway. Rejoin transport. (Distance for the day, 10! miles. Total distance, 23 miles.) WALK Page Fifty-one Route Directions for a Long Weekend Walk Transport By motor to the junction of Long Gully Road and main Mt. Cole Road. Leave transport and follow Long Gully Road half-a-mile; turn right and follow jeep track to Sugarloaf Road; turn right, thence to main Mt. Cole Road (2 miles.) Cross road, head west along ridge to The Sugarloaf itself and Firebreak Road, continue west to Mugwamp Road (31 miles.) Turn north along road to Dawson's Rock Track, reaching Mt. Cole Road (5 miles.) Turn left along Sapling Bridge Road to Sapling Bridge (6 miles.) Cross bridge and climb out of Spring Creek valley on the Reservoir Road. Continue north-east along Reservoir Road to Sandy Pinch Road. Turn left and in a short distance turn right on to jeep track into Victoria Mill Reserve. Cross creek to camping ground. (Distance for the day, 8! miles. This short walking day should allow time to explore the reserve.)

Some Eucalyph of Mt. Cole State Forest: (L. to R.) Victorian Blue Gum, Monno (or Ribbony) Gum and Messmate.

Second Day Leave the camping ground by following the valley of Buckingham's Creek down to Captain's Track (21 miles.) Turn right, cross creek and follow the track to Telephone Track; turn right and follow to Eversley Sugarloaf Road (4 miles.) Turn left and climb to Cowan's Track, then turn right to Lookout Road and Ben Nevis (61 miles.) Return to Victoria Mill Reserve via McGuiness Road (7! miles) and Mt. Cole Road. (Distances for the day, 10! miles.)

Third Day Rejoin Mt. Cole Road. Walk south to junction with Harvey's Flat Road (l:f miles.) Turn left and climb Lookout Hill (21 miles.) Follow ridge eastwards for about a quarter mile, leaving it by dropping E.S.E. to reach Lookout Hill Road (2f miles.) Turn right (S.W.) and continue down to cross Long Gully and join Big Rock Road. Turn left on to Long Gully Road; cross Long Gully (41 miles.) Walk steeply downhill Page Fifty-two WALK to Glut Road (5 miles) along the Firey Creek valley. Turn right and follow Glut Road to Sanderson's Road (6! miles.) Turn right and climb south-west to the heights by way of the Camp Road and Camp Road Link. Follow the foot track west of the Mt. Cole Road northwards to Sugarloaf Road (91 miles.) Turn left and rejoin the Mt. Cole Road; turn north, returning to transport. (Distance for the day, 10 miles. Total distance for 3 days, 29 miles. The second day's walking could be deleted from the long weekend route to make a two-day's walking distance of 19 miles.) MAP REFERENCE: Mt. Cole Forest, F.C.V., 2 inches 1 mile. NOTES COMPILED: June, 1967. F.W.H.

YAMBLA & TABLETOP Tyrone T. Thomas

Victoria's Grampians and the Blue Mountains of New South Wales inspire many a walker to linger and see nature in all her grandeur. But few venture to the impressive Table Top Range just north of Albury. Like its massive counterparts, Table Top, although smaller, thrusts great escarpments skywards and provides excellent walking and climbing. Although at first sight the range appears merely as two mildly abrupt rises set back from the Hume Highway further inspection reveals much more. It is actually a part of the Yambla Range which stretches twenty miles along a north-south line, in a triangle bounded by Albury, Culcairn and Holbrook. Part of the region is controlled by the New South Wales Forestry Department, the remainder being pastoral properties and a small reserve. The rock formations are of conglomerate sedimentary type and the cliffs rise up to 400 feet in many places. The overall impression is one of buttes and an internal cliff-rimmed basin rather than tilted sedimentary beds. These formations naturally provide spectacular views and although the surrounding district is mainly flat grazing land, the views inspire a feeling of the wide open spaces. Recently a weekend walk by a group of Melbourne Bushwalkers revelled in this new found walking area. Starting at the northern end of the Yambla Range they climbed in easy stages and eventually followed the ridge southwards. Water was lacking for much of the distance, however a supply was found for the overnight campsite between the south end of the Yambla Range and the north end of the Table Top Range. It was on the Sunday that the walking became far more strenuous and certainly called for the reassessment of the previously labelled "easy" walk to be graded as medium. For it is the southern part of the journey along the Table Top Range where the cliffs and steep rises are met before the drop down through the pastoral properties along Table Top Creek to the Hume Highway, that is so scenic.

WALK Page Fifty-three ONE DAY WALKS

NEERIM JUNCTION-GLEN NAYOOK-LA THOBE RIVER

Distance IO miles Features Gippsland hill country, part cleared, part forested. A visit to "Glen Nayook" scenic reserve. Best walked September to April. Transport By road. (Nearest railway is at , 17 miles distant.) Leave transport one mile south of Neerim Junction along the Warragul-Noojee road. Finishing point is one mile north-east from White's Corner along the Noojee-Powelltown road. Description of Route Commence by following the old permanent way from where it runs along side the Warragul-Noojee road (958213). The line is followed north for H miles until meeting the Neerim Junction-Glen Nayook Road (953232); turn left (W.) to reach the latter place ~ mile down the road. A circular walking track winds through the reserve which is characterized by a fine regrowth of mountain ash, sassafras, blackwood etc. (A detailed description of the reserve is given in "The Melbourne Walker" of 1967.) After lunch descend to the lowest footbridge in the gully and take a course west out of the glen until meeting a track which is followed in a general N.W. direction for ~ mile where it is crossed by a bulldozed farm track leading on the right to a gate. Walk on the other side of the gate W. for 200 yards to a junction (935235). Take the west road which then immediately turns south. At this corner follow the fence leading west. A N.-S. fence is crossed and, finally, a jeep track is reached on the bend where the track turns from south to west (929235). Follow this track, here widened for logging, west, until on top of a rise a new forestry track is met running N.-S. The old jeep track appears to bear left (N.W.) from this new track which is followed for the next 2 miles until a fork is reached, also on a rise. Here there is an old hut and clearing; one track descends north (Davis Road which goes to mill at 915277); an overgrown jeep track descends south from the side of the hut; and another logging track going N.W. to W. Take the last-mentioned track and look for an overgrown jeep track on the right, which is then followed generally N.E. to the road (908275). If a point is reached on the logging track where it turns sharply south and descends, then the jeep track has been passed. There is another jeep track leading N. from this sharp bend, but it is the wrong one, turning N.W. after a while. Also avoid any other track turning N.W. and take an easterly course until meeting the above N.E. track. It is possible to scrub-bash if on the wrong track. Follow the Noojee-Powelltown Road E. for l mile to the mill, where, on the north side of the road, two tracks will be seen, one leading oH at an angle, the other to the right of this heading N. Take the latter until, on the right hand of a bend, a cleared area will be seen below. Drop to and cross clearing and, avoiding the blackberries, find Page Fifty-four WALK the way through to the La Trobe River, following it E. along its southern bank and crossing a tributary. Keep by the river until forced to climb the bank, shortly reaching a mass of brambles through which a hole has been made. Pass through and continue E., following a faintly defined track to a once-ploughed clearing (923289). A farm track on south side of clearing leads for f mile to the finishing point (935278). MAP REFERENCE: Gembrook, Quarter Sheet Section, D. Lands Dept., 2 inches to I mile. NOTES COMPILED: January, I967. M.G. • • • • • TECOMA-SHERBROOKE FOREST-COLE'S RIDGE-BELGRAVE (LYREBIRD WALK) Distance 7 miles Best Season Mid-winter. Wet and misty weather seems to be favoured by the birds for mimicry and display. Transport Train to Tecoma, returning from Belgrave. Description of Route Walk north from Tecoma station to main road, turn left for 100 yards, then enter Sophia Grove on the right, following it to its end. Take street obliquely on right, cross bridge, and look for a right-of-way between two houses, leading to an unmade street. Turn left for 100 yards to where a similar Janeway on the right leads into a made road. Turn right for a few paces to entrance of Gordon Grove which climbs uphill to Terry Avenue, the southern boundary of Sherbrooke Forest. (ll miles from station.) Turn right and walk downhill for ! mile and join forestry road crossing Pound Creek. The track then passes forestry school annexe to enter plantation halfway up hillside. Shortly after coming to a junction take the right-hand fork (Ridge Track) swinging back to the eastern side of plantation. Here, listen for lyrebirds which should be heard below in native scrub on valley slopes of Sherbrooke Creek. After coming to junction near falls, follow the track going to Ferny Creek, leaving it in 1 mile to join side track leading to Ambrose Pratt Memorial Cairn. Go through gap in felled tree and walk south­ east along firebreak, listening and looking out for Lyrebirds from now on until reaching Kallista. About l mile past cairn, a foot track on the left connects with Clematis Avenue which, in turn, leads to a bitumen road 3/8 mile out from the Kallista picnic ground. (Lunch.) Coles Ridge track commences at the far southern end of the picnic ground. ll miles from Kallista the ridge track turns abruptly west for l mile, then south for ! mile, descending to "Puffing Billy" level crossing at Belgrave. MAP REFERENCE: Monbulk. military. 1:50.000. Broadbent's, No. 200E. NOTES COMPILED: July, 1967. A.S. WALK Page Fifty-five BEAR'S HEAD RANGE-LERDERDERG RIVER Distance 9 miles Features A circular trip over rough and scrubby country, crossing the Lerderderg River twice and once. A hard walk, especially so if undertaken in hot, summer conditions, but a reward­ ing one. Transport The nearest railway station is at Bacchus Marsh, 12 miles distant, from where a hire car may be taken to the starting point, the road junction at the base of Mt. Blackwood. Finish at same spot. Equipment Wear long trousers for the scrub and carry a water bottle for the long dry spurs and ridges. In summer take bathing togs for a cool-oH in the river. Description of the Route Note that Mt. Blackwood is observable at various points along the route, thus making a prominent landmark. Mileages given are distances from start. Commencing at the junction (411660) take the road heading east. Shortly after passing through a gateway, the road skirts a farmhouse and ends at another gate. Go through to follow a track turning south and reach a third gate, the track forking shortly afterwards. (I mile.) Take right hand fork generally south, ignoring any tracks going oH right. In one mile track again forks, one branch heading south, the other swings east. (2 miles.) Take the eastern track, ignoring a track to the south, and follow it until it peters out on the edge of the Bear's Head Range, overlooking the Lerderderg River. (3! miles.) Descend N.E., swinging round to the S.E., to about 200 yards north of a left bend below a cliff-face. A pleasant lunch spot should be found on the east bank. Here there is a single large rock mid-stream where the water is deep enough for swimming. After lunch ascend the spur behind you, first skirting the mass of rock at the bottom. The spur is very narrow at first and climbs in a northerly direction for 1000 feet. As soon as the top is reached (4~ miles) take the spur descending in a N.W. direction and drop down to The Old River, a few hundred yards north of the Lerderderg. (5 miles.) The spur is generally well defined but is not readily recognized from the top. However it can easily be found if a N.W. course is maintained. From The Old River (the water is superior for drinking to that of the Lerderderg) climb straight up the other side, heading W., and follow the spur to the edge of the top. A clump of rock marks the beginning of a spur descending W.S.W. to the Lerderderg. The spur is narrow but it makes enjoyable walking, ending in a steep section at the bottom. (6 miles.) Cross the river and climb steeply N.W. to meet a well defined spur leading out of the gorge. There is a faint track most of the way and this should be followed W. once the top is reached. Soon a jeep track leads W., then S.S.W. until it is joined by the track followed in the morning. (8 miles.) From here retrace footsteps back to road junction. (9 miles.) MAP REFERENCE: Balian, military, 1:63.360. NOTES COMPILED: December, 1966. M.G. Page Fifty-six WALK You'll Love TASMANIA for Your Next HOLIDAY

Frenchman's Cap, Tasmania.

In Tasmania you will find majestic mountains and tranquil lakes • • . secluded bays and sundrenched beaches . • . cool green bushlands and sparkling mountain streams .•. in fact, all the holiday maker could wish for.

FOR FULL DETAILS CALL OR WRITE THE TASMANIAN GOVERNMENT TOURIST BUREAU MELBOURNE: 254 COLLINS STREET, Tel.: 63-6351. SYDNEY: 129 King Street. LAUNCESTON: Cnr. Paterson/St. John Sts. ADELAIDE: 32A King William Street. DEVONPORT: 41 Stewart Street. BRISBANE: 194 Adelaide Street. BURNIE: 11 Wilson Street. HOBART: Cnr. Mocquorie & Murray Streets. WALK Page Fifty-seven TASMANIAN NEWSLETTER

During the aftermath of the tragic fires of February, 1967, most walking activities were suspended as walkers set to helping neighbours and clearing debris. "Operation Rucksack" was fund set up with the object of helping to replace walking gear lost or damaged. There was much damage to the walking routes in the Mt. Wellington area and generally a great loss of scenic value. However, in the eyes of the mainlander it was the earlier Frenchman's Cap National Park fire of November, 1966 which seemed a great calamity. This fire resulted from a buring-off which got out of hand in a period of laxity, destroying a good deal of the vegetation west of Barron Pass. In order to speed up regeneration, walkers helped collect seeds to enable seed­ lings to be planted in patches of good soil. While visiting the Reserve last year, some of our members made their first acquaintance with the Scott Kilvert Memorial Hut named after the two walkers who perished during a snowstorm in May, 1965. The Launceston Walking Club of which Ewin Scott was a member, and the Riverside High school of which David Kilvert was a pupil decided to build the hut, choosing a site at the western end of Lake Rodway, near the foot of Cradle Mountain. A number of interesting possibilities in walking routes can now be considered. Finally it is hoped that the hut will prevent a like tragedy occurring again. Schouten Island, once part of the Freycinet National Park, was re-instated as a Scenic Reserve, and it has been announced that expiring leases on Maria Island will not be renewed, and the island will eventually become a National Park. An area featuring a wealth of heathland vegetation and a Aboriginal cave has been gazetted as a National Park at Rocky Cape, on the north-west coast. ••••• Readers of bushwalking literature will be interested to learn that the Adelaide Bushwalkers have been publishing their journal "Tarndanya" in "little-magazine" format, three issues having appeared since 1965. Articles by their members describe both walks in South Australia and beyond, including the popularly known areas such as Flinders Ranges and Kangaroo Island. Last Issue, June, 1967. Octavo size. Price 30c. Adelaide Bushwalkers, Box 1273, G.P.O., Adelaide, S.A . • • • • • The hill road wet with rain In the sun would not gleam Like a winding stream If we trod it not again. -from "Roads", Edward Thomas.

Page Fifty-eight WALK MOUNTAIN MUSTER

Last April, in a mine at Walhalla, a large boulder was dislodged during a visit by a mine-exploring group which resulted in a near-fatal accident to one of the party. Such an incident shows how dangerous old mines can be. Those who desire to enter these places should enquire at the Mines Department, Treasury Place, Melbourne, who can supply a report on the condition of old workings in Victoria. Local interests at Walhalla would like to see the Long Tunnel Extended Mine preserved and kept open as a tourist attraction, and also because of its historical worth. During a working weekend last February the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs completed marking the snowpole route from Mt. Baw Baw to Mt. St. Phillack. The track is now marked by: steel poles with yellow plastic, strips in trees, paint on rocks and tree stumps, metal discs.

Rising from Harrietville to Mt. Hotham the Bon Accord Track is easier to follow since part of it was cleared last Easter. Although the old bridge still presents a thorny problem, the best way to deal with the blackberries at the crossing is to find a heavy stick and beat a way through. It was during Easter, too, that a party of high school teachers and students made repairs to the existing Mt. Feathertop Hut. Meanwhile, at the southern end of the Razorback Range below Mt. Hotham, word has been given that the C.R.B. Diamantina Hut has been replaced by an A-type building with concrete floor and central fire-place. Mt. Bogong also had a new hut. This was built by the Mt. Bogong Club earlier this year about ~ mile below the tree-line on the Eskdale Spur. On the Bogong High Plains the S.E.C. have removed the small shelter huts at Rocky and Pretty Valleys. However, on the Plains, the snowpole line is at present being repaired. Down at the Old Tawanga Hut site there are now four huts-one locked and three open. As a memorial to the late cross-country skier, Charles Derrick, a shelter hut has been built near the snowpole one on Swindler's Spur. In the Nadgee Faunal Reserve the old homestead on the banks of the Nadgee River was demolished during the year 1966. Recent values of heights for some of Victoria's highest mountains are: Mt. Bogong 6,516 ft., Mt. Feathertop 6,307 ft., Mt. Nelse 6,181 ft., Mt. Fainter 6,157 ft., Mt. Loch 6,152 ft., Mt. Hotham 6,101 ft., Mt. Niggerhead 6,048 ft., Mt. McKay 6,045 ft., Mt. Cobberas 6,030 ft., Mt. Cope 6,026 ft., Mt. Spion Kopje 6,025 ft., Mt. Buller 5,919 ft. A recent development has been the founding of The Public Purposes and Reserves Protection League (P.P.R.P.L.), a society formed to protect the rights of access by citizens to river frontages and other areas to which access is legally allowable. Enquiries and any complaint of instances of rights of access being denied should be submitted to the league. The secretary is Mr. K. Lloyd, 109 Swanston St., Melbourne. WALK Page Fifty-nine Ever thought of doing a bushwalking job and being paid for it? Every year there is a call for experienced bushwalkers who can impart their knowledge in outdoor and recreational courses. These activities are usually run by such bodies as the National Fitness Council of Victoria, the Social Welfare Department, Outward Bound, and some­ times interstate groups. Both men and women are sought as leaders for the courses whose duration may range from occasional weekends up to three-week trips. As well as light-weight camping and beginners' trips, leaders are also required for rockclimbing, canoeing etc. Rates of pay usually vary accordmg to the experience of the leaders.

There is an old complaint about roads which encroach into areas formerly the preserve of only the walker or the horseman. This tendancy seems to have been reversed In the case of the closure of a section of The Alpine Way between Khancoban and Dead Horse Gap on account of the high cost of maintaining mountain roads particularly in areas of severe erosion. The closure also brings to mind that part of this road was once rebuilt to avoid the steep gradients over The Geehi Walls, a high range which was regarded as a major and sometimes exciting stage in a trip, from the Victorian side, to the Snowy Mountains. It certainly would be interesting to walk over the old section of 2! miles, as it is quite a few years since it was last used by regular traffic.

Word has been received that bushwalkers who have a high regard for conservation and safety will be especially welcome to visit the recently opened up New England National Park, its 60,000 acres making it the second largest in N.S.W. The climate allows for all-seasons walking through areas ranging from jungly forests to snow-gum and snow grass growing on peaks over 5,000 feet high, and a rugged interior waiting to be explored.

Mt. Bruce (4,056 feet) has long been regarded as the highest mountain in W.A. Recently a survey party from the Lands and Survey department discovered a higher peak. This new mountain has an elevation of 4,104 feet, is situated 42 miles south-east of Mt. Bruce in the Hamersley Range, and has been named Mt. Meharry after the late Mr. W. T. Meharry who directed the survey operations.

In Victoria road-building has been going on apace around the en­ virons of the Bogong High Plains. This is particularly so in the Snowy Creek-Pyramid Hill area. Bridges now replace the fords of the West Kiewa road which is in the process of being metalled.

Police Search and Rescue request that all persons walking in the country should not, except in extreme emergency, signal helicopters and other aircraft. Flying low to investigate, or attempting a landing, can be a risky, and somewhat fatal, affair.

AN INDUCEMENT.-Bushwalking is the subject matter of a pam­ phlet issued to intending migrants in one of the European countries and is promoted as one of the enjoyments and advantages of settling here. Page Sidy WALK MAPPING CENTRE

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WALK Page Sixty-one NEW MAPS Firstly, a short note about two long-established mapping firms. Broadbent's who over the last 70 years have become a household word regarding tourist and road maps, was this year taken over by Robinson's Maps, a Sydney based firm. Melbourne University Mountaineering Club has issued a pro­ visional sketch map of and environs. Map is in two parts: (a) Stream flow-on 2 inches to 1 mile scale; (b) Summit contours on 4 inches to 1 mile scale. The same club has also issued a map of the summit of Mt. Feathertop and environs on a scale of 4 inches to 1 mile, and 100 feet contour lines. These maps sell for about 80 cents each. Also in the same area is the Melbourne Bushwalkers' "Feathertop/ Hotham Divide". Latest edition shows all new tracks. Two inches to 1 mile. Stream How. Price $1. Another new map of the Melbourne Bushwalkers is that of the Mt. Buller/Mt. Stirling area, covering ridge from Timbertop to Clear Hills. Provisional only. 100 feet contours. Scale 2 inches to 1 mile. Price $1. There is also a new edition of the Melbourne Bushwalkers' "Southern Snowy Mountains", 1 inch to 1 mile, 200 feet contours. Price $1. Probably the latest map of Wilson's Promotory is that issued by Algona Guides. Of foolscap size it shows main walking tracks on a reduction scale of 1 inch to 2 miles. Price 20 cents. A revised edition is due to appear in December, 1967. The army has published 3 more maps at 1:50,000, they are Murchison, Arcadia (Old Murchison sheet) and have also been brought up to date. Neerim (east half of old Gembrook sheet) is also now available but is just a rehash of the Lands Dept Gembrook sheet and has no new track information on it. Just issued is the Lands Dept. '"Hotham and Falls Creek Alpine Area" covering the area which its title implies-i.e. somewhat more than that shown on "Feathertop C". Scale 4 inches to 1 mile, 50 feet contours, printed in four colours, four sheets-50 cents each. A sketch map produced by the Melbourne Bushwalkers in Sep­ tember, 1967, is entitled "Mt. Wombat- Gorge". On a scale of 2 inches to 1 mile it covers an area of 44 square miles which includes Charman falls and Wombat Creek, and pinpoints several prominent rock formations. Price 30c. A new issue by Broadbents is Map No. 271A, Seymour Tourist Dis­ trict, with a scale of approximately 4 miles to 1 inch, printed on a fool­ scap sheet. Notwithstanding the small scale, this should be found a useful general map of the areas north of Whittlesea reaching up to Euroa. Main access roads and prominent peaks are clearly marked in such places as the Mt. Disappointment and Tallarook Ranges, the Strath Creek/Yea district, and the mountains north of the Goulburn embracing the Switzer­ land and . Price 20 cents. Page Sixty-two WALK WHY ADVENTURE?

A quick look at adventure training. Robert Taylor.

One of the most important trends in youth work today is towards adventurous outdoor activities and it would be useful to just stop and look at how this has come about, the value of it, and some of the activities in this field in Australia. One man is largely responsible for this trend. Dr. Kurt Hahn was a German educationalist who dared the wrath of Hitler and who was eventually forced to leave Germany for Britain. In 1934, he established Gordonstoun School in Scotland. The stress at Gordonstoun was on the development of initiative, self-reliance and resiliance both physical and mental. Dr. Hahn believed that every boy is an individual and as such should be allowed to develop his natural talents. The traditional games of the English Public Schools were dethroned and athletics, sailing, riding and climbing were given priority. Then came the war and countless numbers of young Britons lost their lives because of their unpreparedness for exacting situations such as occur when a ship is torpedoed - they simply gave in when a bit of fortitude and self-reliance would have saved them. Lawrence Holt, a shipowner of the Blue Funnel Line was concerned enough about this to give financial support to Kurt Hahn's ideas and in 1941 the first Outward Bound school was started at Aberdovey, Wales. Since then numerous other Outward Bound schools have been established - there are now six in Britain, and others in America, New Zealand, Africa, Malaya and Australia. The schools must be founded on the follow­ ing principles:- "They must be residential and the courses must last for a minimum of four weeks. They must be open to all, based on a spiritual founda­ tion, and must contain a diversity of occupations and nationalities, with­ out political or sectional bias. They must present each boy with a set of conditions and give him possibly for the first time, the opportunity to discover himself. These conditions, self-discipline, team work, adventure, physical hardship and some risk, are normally rarely met with. They must endeavour to develop character through training with a vocation or other practical interest." I have worked as an instructor at the Eskdale Outward Bound school in the Lake District of England and have seen the wonderful effect that the course can have on young men. For many, born and bred in a city like London or Glasgow and destined to spend the rest of their lives there, it will be the most unusual and exciting experience of their lifetime, and for all it opens up new possibilities and interests. At Eskdale there are ten courses of 26 days duration each year. The average attendance is about 96 lads who come from all over Britain and sometimes Europe. About 16 days are spent in or around the school­ (a) basic training for mountain skills-map reading, first aid, etc.; (b) physical activities which improve fitness and produce self-con­ fidence-rope courses, obstacle courses, steeple chases, cross coun- tries, !-mile uphill run, circuit training, not to mention the famous (or infamous) early morning run and dip; (c) discussions and lecturettes. WALK Page Sixty-three The other ten days are spent in the mountains, either walking or climbing. There are three expeditions and as the lads gain in skill and fitness, responsibility is gradually shifted from the instructor to them. The course reaches its climax in the final expedition when groups of 4 or 5 plan and carry out their own trips without supervision. It is not unknown for a group to cover 70 miles and ascend some 20,000 feet in such an expedition! Today there are numerous other organisations which offer courses along the lines of the Outward Bound movement. In Australia much of this work is done by the National Fitness Council. About 1939/40, there was considerable consternation among various authorities in Australia about the fitness of the average citizen. In 1941, this concern took the form of the Commonwealth National Fitness Act, in which each State was required to set up a National Fitness Council to promote the development of fitness, financed by funds from both State and Commonwealth Governments. In Victoria, we interpret fitness in the broadest possible sense - that is, to include mental and emotional fitness as well as physical fit­ ness. Our main work is done in the field of recreational and leisure time activities and in this we assist and develop the work being done by schools, youth organisations, sporting and recreational clubs. Our activities in the outdoor field include Adventure Schools for school children, Ski Schools and courses in bushwalking, rock climbing, canoeing, water skiing and recently, Catamaran sailing. As I see it, there are at least four reasons why this sort of training has value:- 1. Playing a sport is not in itself a guarantee of physical fitness. In schools too often it is only the gifted few-the "prima donnas" of ball games who get the attention and the average performers are left to themselves. However, activities like walking, climbing, canoeing, rope courses, if carried out properly do have a tremendous effect on fitness­ ask any lad who has just finished an Outward Bound Course! 2. Every youngster needs to feel the satisfaction of achievement. Too many people these days have a sense of failure, are made to feel they don't matter, simply because they don't excel at anything. Com­ petition is the key word of our present society and competition often breeds frustration, boredom and despair in the unsuccessful. Adventurous activities offer experiences which are beyond the imagination of most youngsters and enable them to tackle challenges they believed they could never answer-it gives them self-confidence and self-esteem. 3. I think that adventurous experiences are a basic need of most young people. If we don't allow them these sort of experiences, they will often take them anyway-but usually in a socially unacceptable form. Providing outlets for adventure is a good insurance against much of the social rebellion of young people. 4. It brings young people into contact with nature and all its wonders and forces, something which is too often lacking in our modern society. Even when young people do come into contact with nature it is usually in a form so emasculated and tamed as to have little effect. Encounters with a raw and powerful nature help to create a healthy feeling of awe and a less arrogant approach to this world and all its occupants.

Page Sidy-four WALK The KODAK INSTAMATIC 104 CAMERA OUTFIT makes picture· taking easy, especially at night. Everything's there, in the Kodak lnstamatic 104 Camera Outfit, for fast flash photography. You get the famous lnstamatic 104 Camera with a flashcube - a jewel-like cube that lets you take four flash pictures without changing bulbs. Flash! flash! flash! flash! Candid camp-fire scenes can be your specialty! The outfit also contains a drop-in Kodak black-and-white film cartridge, plus batteries and instruction booklet Everything you need is there. Take a Kodak lnsta- riiiiiiiiii:;.;;:; cartridges of Koda­ matic 104 Camera Out­ color Film for colour fit on your next trip. snapshots and Koda­ Only $16.15 from your chrome or Kodak Ekta­ Kodak dealer. The chrome Film for colour camera also accepts slides.

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