Old Masters — New Era New

FRIDAY-SUNDAY, MARCH 12-14, 2010

ing the 12th-15th centuries A.D. in the At left, Uwe Lausen’s West African kingdom. ‘Untitled’ (Moon Landing) British Museum (1968) on show in Frankfurt; Until June 6 below, Florian Merkel’s ‘Magabe’ % 44-20-7323-8181 (2004), shown in Berlin. www.britishmuseum.org

art “Victoria & Albert: Art & Love” ex- plores Queen Victoria and Prince Al- bert’s enthusiasm for art through 400 works from the Royal Collection. The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace Old Masters March 19-Oct. 31 % 44-20-7766-7300 www.royalcollection.org.uk — new era Lucerne music “Lucerne Festival at Easter 2010” features performances by Cecilia Art at Maastricht fair shines Bartoli, the Freiburg Barock Con- sort, and The King’s Consort from as collectors seek safer bets London in a performance of Bach’s St. Matthew Passion. Lucerne Festival March 18-28 % 41-41-2264-400 www.lucernefestival.ch Madrid music “The Cranberries” brings the newly re- united Irish rock band to Spain, performing classic hits alongside new material. March 12, Palacio Vistalegre, Madrid March 13, Pavello Olimpic Badalona, Barcelona March 14, Le Dome, Marseille March 16, Mediolanum, Milan March 17, Hallenstadion, Zurich March 19, Le Galaxie, Amneville March 21, Halle Tony Garnier, Lyon March 22, Zenith, Paris March 23, Heineken Music Hall, Amsterdam March 25 Forest National, Brussels More European dates at www.cranberries.com Uwe Lausen Amsterdam composer Mela Meierhans and Pales- figurative and Pop Art painter, along- art photography tinian singer Kamilya Jubran. side a room recreating the artist’s liv- “Pierre Huyghe: La Saison the Fëtes” is “First Light: Photography & Astron- Berliner Festspiele ing conditions. a site-specific installation by the French omy” showcases historical astronomy March 19-28 Schirn Kunsthalle artist in the Palacio de Cristal using photographs and present-day images % 49-30-2548-9218 Until June 13 flowers, plants and trees in bloom. made by telescopes and space probes www.berlinerfestspiele.de % 49-69-2998-820 Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reine Sofia/ Parque del Retiro, such as ESO, Hubble and Cassini. www.schirn-kunsthalle.de Palacio de Cristal Huis Marseille- Dusseldorf March 17-May 31 Museum for photography art Geneva % 34-91-7741-000 Until May 30 “Matts Leiderstam—Seen From Here” photography www.museoreinasofia.es % 31-20-5318-989 presents installations by the Swedish “Humanity in War: Frontline Photogra- www.huismarseille.nl artist using projections and computer phy since 1860” presents war photog- animations examining work by land- raphy from the past 150 years, simul- Paris scape artist Johann Wilhelm Schirmer. taneously tracing the evolution of the art Basel “Gosse de Peintre—Beat Takeshi Ki- art Kunsthalle Dusseldorf International Committee of the Red March 20-May 24 Cross since its inception. tano” displays paintings and videos “Günther Förg” presents wall paintings alongside abstract objects and fan- and 21 large-format photographs by % 49-211-8996-243 Musee International de la Croix-Rouge www.kunsthalle-duesseldorf.de et du Croissant-Rouge tasy machines created by the Japa- the German artist.. nese comedian, actor and artist. Until July 25 Fondation Beyeler Fondation Cartier % 41-22-7489-525 Until April 5 Frankfurt pour l’art Contemporain www.micr.ch % 41-61-6459-700 music Until Sept. 12 www.beyeler.com “Eros Ramazzotti” brings Italy’s biggest % 33-1-4218-5650 pop star to venues and fans across Ger- London fondation.cartier.com Berlin many, performing his hits and material theater art from his 2009 album “Ali e Radici.” “The White Guard” presents a new Vienna “Berlin Transfer” shows contemporary March 13, Arena Nürnberger version of Mikhail Bulgakov’s Russian music paintings, photography, graphics and Versicherung, Nuremberg civil war play directed by Andrew Up- “Vienna Spring Festival 2010” is a installations by artists including Falk March 15, Festhalle, Frankfurt ton, starring Graham Butler, Pip Carter classical music festival featuring per- Haberkorn and Florian Merkel. March 17, Color Line Arena, Hamburg and Anthony Calf. formances by Artemis Quartett, Berlinische Galerie March 19, Koenig Pilsener Arena, National Theatre Louis Lortie, Quatuor Ebène and the Until May 24 Oberhausen March 15-June 15 Vienna Symphonic Orchestra. % 49-30-7890-2600 March 20, Lanxess, Cologne % 44-20-7452-3000 Wiener Konzerthaus www.berlinischegalerie.de More dates online at www.nationaltheatre.org.uk March 20-May 16 www.ramazzotti.com % 43-1-242 002 music art konzerthaus.at “Maerzmusik Festival 2010” is a con- art “Kingdom of Ife” features 109 out- temporary-music festival featuring “Uwe Lausen” showcases paintings standing pieces of brass, copper, stone Source: ArtBase Global Arts News

works by Salvatore Sciarrino, Swiss and works on paper by the German and terracotta sculpture created dur- Service, WSJE research. Florian Merkel

W16 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL Film:Wine: The The timeless best of appealChristmas of ‘Breathless’ drinking European Wine: The Web scent habits of Burgundy revealed v Books

Bookshelf / By Michael J. Ybarra Contents 7 3 | Film 8-9 | Cover story Arts & Antiques 12 | Sport Passage to Nowhere

In 1903, Roald Amundsen set trapped in ice for months, many stalled in Westminster Abbey in Reflecting on Godard’s Horseracing at Cheltenham off from Norway in a 47-ton fish- wrecked or abandoned, survivors 1875, with an epitaph by Tenny- Tefaf treasure trove ing ship with a crew of six and enduring incredible hardships in son: “Not here! The White North groundbreaking classic five years of provisions. Over the a frozen wasteland, others simply hath thy bones; and thou, / He- 14 | Top Picks next three years he managed to falling off the map. Two fine new roic sailor-soul, / Art passing on Old Masters roar back as safe bets do what explorers had been try- books trace the sad saga. An- thy happier voyage now / To- 4-5 | Food & Wine ing in vain to do for centuries: He thony Brandt, in “The Man Who wards no earthly pole.” Of Frank- found a path through the maze of Ate His Boots,” claims that, early lin’s quest, and those of others islands at the top of the world on, it was understood that the over the years, Mr. Brandt says The failed flight of ‘Das Rheingold’ that would connect the Atlantic passage would “never be of any that there is a tension “between Dining in Vegas’s City Center and Pacific oceans. Amundsen, practical use.” Still, the effort to the nobility and the folly of the who was just starting an explora- find it had the irresistible appeal enterprise that makes the story ‘Love Never Dies’ effects stun, tion career of a seem- so rich and has inspired so many Wine: Earthy Burgundy that would ingly impossi- efforts to tell it.” singing sags eventually The Man Who Ate His Boots ble task. In Both Mr. Brandt and Mr. Will- make him the By Anthony Brandt “Arctic Laby- iams do an able job of recounting 6 | Fashion first man to (Knopf, 441 pages, $28.95) rinth,” Glyn the search for the Northwest Pas- From Matisse to Malevich reach the Williams ob- sage. Mr. Williams, a professor of history at the University of Lon- South Pole, serves that Arctic Labyrinth don, offers the more comprehen- had found the the promised counts it is John Franklin—“the ditioners. Eventually the Scottish On Style: By Glyn Williams sive narrative—he describes the Collecting: Oceanic Art Northwest short cut be- man who ate his boots.” He made explorer John Rae learned from (Allen Lane, 440 pages, £25) a name for himself in 1819-22 by early history of the search as Passage. tween oceans Inuit hunters about two ships well as the role that fanciful car- Wearing the latest runway styles leading an expedition to explore Since then had a dream- that had become icebound, the tography played in making it diffi- the north coast of Canada. The 15 | Books seven differ- like allure crews trying to reach safety over- cult. Mr. Brandt, a journalist, fo- 7 | Luxury ent passages have been tra- but became “a nightmarish laby- trip turned into an epic battle for land, all dying from the cold or cuses more on John Franklin and versed. They shave about a quar- rinth in which ships and men dis- survival, with 11 out of 20 men starvation, the last survivors re- his doomed journey. dying. Lichen and leather boots ter of the mileage off the trans- appeared without trace, and sorting to cannibalism. Franklin Both writers note a final Ice-bound were the diet of the survivors. oceanic shipping routes that go would-be rescuers had to be res- became an imperial hero, an em- irony: Global warming is finally Hermès expands to yachts through the Panama Canal, but cued themselves.” In 1845, Franklin set off from blem of British rectitude, whose making the Northwest Passage a England with two ships, 129 men the window of navigation is so The quest was mostly a Brit- fate prefigured that of another po- year-round shipping route. Which 16 | Time Off and stores for three years. The narrow, because of ice, that the ish affair. An obsession, Mr. lar explorer, Robert Falcon Scott, in turn has prompted Canada to ships were last spotted in July in claim sovereignty over the water- t discovery of the Northwest Pas- Brandt calls it. As early as 1745, who died just after reaching the Baffin Bay (between Greenland way and any resources that sage has proved to be commer- Parliament offered a cash prize South Pole in January 1912. Our arts and and Canada). After three years might be found in the region. cially irrelevant—which makes for the crew finding the passage. (Amundsen had arrived there five Matts Leiderstam, VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2010 Bild-Kunst, VG Matts Leiderstam, the first of many rescue expedi- Someday the entire Arctic Sea Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor culture calendar the centuries-long search for it Capt. James Cook’s final (and fa- tions was launched. Five ships— weeks before.) could be one giant Northwest Pas- Elisabeth Limber Art director even more tragic and bitter. tal) voyage, from 1776 to 1779, and more lives than had been a Franklin’s body has never been sage. Brian M. Carney Books page editor Bastiaan van Musscher, 2008 Musscher, van Bastiaan Matts Leiderstam ‘Neanderthal From the start, the search was was made in pursuit of it. If a sin- part of the original expedition— recovered (though a search for Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. Landscape’ (2009-2010) on show at nothing but one fruitless expedi- gle figure dominates both Mr. were lost in the repeated at- the wrecks of his ships contin- Mr. Ybarra is a frequent contribu- Please include your full name and address. COVER, Tefaf Art Fair. ‘Matts Leiderstam — Seen From Here’ tion after another, ships often Brandt’s and Mr. Williams’s ac- tempts to find the Franklin expe- ues), but a bust of him was in- tor to the Journal. Photograph by Loraine Bodewes. exhibition in Düsseldorf. Bookshelf / By Adrian Wooldridge 7 Big Think in the Boardroom THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 53 Sustains Down 43 Holder of 1,093 84 Third of a Seinfeld line 57 Lofgren who plays 1 Put in the patents 85 Does very well with Bruce overhead bin, say 44 Northern natives 24 Wasn’t a 34 Recipient of 42 Advertiser’s ploy 87 Yellow-flowering As a business journalist and share, thanks to the accumulation scrutiny and self-examination. In sultants currently work in the pri- tionship with Enron, for example— Across 59 “Cheerio!” 2 Golfer with an “army” 47 Best man’s primrose smooth private lessons 44 Bad time former editorial director of the of know-how. The “growth share 1982, Tom Peters and Robert Wa- vate-equity business. but he skimps on evidence. 1 Authorizations responsibility speaker 36 Friendly for Caesar 61 Painter’s base layer 3 Let someone else speak 88 Drea’s role on Harvard Business Review, Walter matrix” encouraged companies to terman—McKinsey stars at the “The Lords of Strategy” is at Mr. Kiechel makes up for this 7 Catches flies, e.g. 48 “Balderdash!” “The Sopranos” 25 Pilot Post introduction? 45 Dot in la mer 63 Handy Mr. 4 Clinched Kiechel has had the unenviable view themselves not as an undif- time—argued in the best-selling its best describing and explaining coyness, though, with his enthusi- 13 Parts expert? 49 Does in 89 “The King of Swing” 26 Man of the future 37 2009 Broadway 46 1973 Bruce Lee 64 I guys 5 Jazz singer Anita task of spending much of his life ferentiated whole but as a portfo- “In Search of Excellence” that the the evolution of an influential asm for telling the bigger story 18 Had a fit? 27 Pelvic pic, e.g. revival classic 66 Unfamiliar with 6 Kind of latte 54 Conversation 93 Sirius merged with it hanging around with manage- lio of businesses that make differ- obsession with strategy was lead- idea in American business. The after canning in 2008 at the heart of his book: the intel- 20 Max Ernst’s 28 Model Bündchen 38 Hydrocarbon 50 Whistle blower 68 Marked by merrymaking 7 Supporter ment theorists. These are the ent contributions to the bottom ing managers to ignore the hu- book is less successful as the “se- 55 Hot prospect 95 Some hip-hop women lectualization of business. Back in creations 29 Deg. held ending 51 First name 70 Stood out 8 Playground response folks who bring out book after line (“cash cows” vs. “dogs,” for man side of things. The year be- cret history” it claims to be. Mr. 96 Mighty cold the days of the “organization 21 Dolly the by Jill Biden 39 Fireplace at the CIA 71 Topic of discourse 9 Aggravate 56 Less affable book of example). fore, Richard Pascale, another Kiechel has the habit of pulling sheep, man” in the 1950s, business peo- 30 Sports receptacle 52 Newest colleague 73 Gov. Richardson’s state 10 Christine of 58 Emmy nominee 97 Ratchet parts business Nowadays McKinseyian, said in “The Art of aside the veil on the darker side notably for playing Truman ple tended to be affable types— analyst’s 41 Sheepish of Clarence and 75 Suffix with quip or tip “Chicago Hope” 99 1960 Wimbledon advice that The Lords of Strategy that sort Japanese Management” that the 22 Somehow aid response Ruth 60 Lackluster champ ___ Fraser pleasant, easy to get along with, 76 Funny papers unit 11 Rap Dr. readers By Walter Kiechel III of think- Japanese, who were then sweep- ___ 100 Governor but hardly rocket scientists. Since Signs of the Times / by Randolph Ross 77 Stockpile 12 Orch. section 62 “The Three Faces ” find un- (Harvard Business Press, 347 pages, $16.99) ing might ing all before them, regarded the 13 Increasingly 65 Half of quatorze before Pataki then an ever greater amount of 123456 789101112 1314151617 79 Fertilization target readable be unex- West’s newfound passion for uncomfortable 101 High, in a way brain power has been applied to 81 Old Saturn model 67 Salon and Slate and man- ceptional, strategy as strange, much “as we 18 19 20 21 14 Envelope part 102 Bluejacket business as more and more gradu- 82 “Don’t move!” 69 Of affluent agers find unmanageable. Yet by but it was a radical development might regard their enthusiasm 15 Dried (off) commuter towns 104 Savvy ate students pursue MBAs 22 23 24 86 Raleigh-to-D.C. heading some miracle Mr. Kiechel has re- in the stagnant, inward-looking for kabuki or sumo wrestling.” 16 Like many country bridges 72 Chopper on the road 108 Frau’s fellow (150,000 annually in the U.S., up 87 Batting practice backdrop mained immune to the maladies world of 1960s corporate Amer- And an army of young thinkers 25 26 27 28 17 Late flights 74 Scale on which 109 Long in the tooth from 3,000 a year in 1948), and 90 Baby showers? of the genre. His “The Lords of ica. began shifting attention to more 19 Virtuous diamond is 10 111 Texting protocol the brightest MBAs often go on 29 30 31 32 33 91 Remarks from the relieved Strategy” is a clear, deft and co- nuts-and-bolts matters, such as 20 Casual clothes 78 Best successor initials The 1970s and the decades to become business consultants. gent portrait of what the author business processes (which could 92 Bobcat mascot of 80 One of three squares 112 Gumshoe that followed saw the institution- 34 35 36 37 38 the Diamondbacks 23 Milne moniker calls the most powerful business be re-engineered) and “core com- The story that Mr. Kiechel 28 Composer born in Bergen 83 Nevil Shute’s 113 Letters for Elizabeth alization of the revolution. One of tells does not have a particularly 39 40 41 42 43 44 94 Mileage meter, for short idea of the past half-century: the petencies” (which needed to be 30 Mack, maker of “___ Like Alice” 114 Common Market: Abbr. BCG’s main competitors, McKin- 95 Portend happy ending: The “quants” who madcap movies realization that corporate leaders sey & Co., shook -itself out of a cultivated). 45 46 47 48 49 96 Abbr. before a name would supposedly take business 31 Exams for needed to abandon their go-it- complacent torpor and began en- Today the status of strategic on sheet music alone focus on their company’s to a new level of intellectual so- 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 future OB/GYNs Last Week’s Solution thusiastically running out its own thinking in the business world is 97 Assassinated Swedish fortunes and instead pursue poli- phistication designed financial 32 Tara family management-strategy models. Bill somewhat confused: An idea that 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 prime minister ERMA AR I SE TESH BLADE cies based on a detailed study of tools such as the credit default 33 Letters on a G-suit patch BOOB MASON I L I E ROBOT Bain and several other BCG execu- owed its appeal to the seemingly 98 Directionally challenged the competitive environment and swap that instead took the world 64 65 66 67 68 69 pilot of 1938 35 Chinese weight BURSTYNOUT BERRYATSEA tives left the company in the hard truths presented by models equal to 50 grams SEETO DBLS EVEREST of broader business trends. is becoming ever more nebulous. economy to the brink of catastro- 70 71 72 73 74 75 103 They have Xings 1970s and started a rival enter- 39 “His ___” (Michael RUMBA ATA PHOB I A The “strategy revolution” be- The lords of strategy are now phe. But Mr. Kiechel is surely 105 Free hit of the hockey ball prise, Bain & Co. Meanwhile, 76 77 78 79 80 81 Jordan nickname) ASWARM RESTATED SAND gan in the 1960s when the Boston given to happy talk about “peo- right that we cannot begin to un- from out of bounds Michael Porter brought strategy 40 Deceptive dexterity PLACIDO DUNNEDEAL SFO Consulting Group upended the in- ple”—on the grounds that people derstand the world that we live 82 83 84 85 86 106 2009 NCAA basketball PITTS SCIFI SPLITSUP to the heart of the American busi- of the management business only champs 41 Natural talent dustry. Rather than take the are the key to innovation and in- in unless we grasp how corporate APT MOORE I NFO PAT I ENT ness establishment, the Harvard to pull it back again. He says that 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 107 Take a pledge 42 Belief usual tack of just cozying up to novation is the key to long-term intellectuals came to have such a LUSH PLO ELOI BERT Business School. He added a pow- management gurus are known to 108 Words with ball or look SPCA TEASE APNEA ETHS individual chief executives for a success. Such concerns can easily dramatic influence on the busi- 94 95 96 97 WSJ.com erful tool to the discipline’s arse- hire ghost-writing outfits such as 110 Truman’s birthplace OILS KISS SAM SHOW bit of corporate kibitzing and call- degenerate into bromides about ness world—and how old-fash- nal, the notion of the “value Wordworks to produce their 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 111 Get a bad situation Crossword online PROL I FE BATESTRAP ORE ing it consulting, BCG produced a the need to treat employees well. ioned virtues, such as judgment chain,” which helped managers books—but he refrains from tell- under control For an interactive TAKENOTE ADORE ACURA series of elegant intellectual mod- Perhaps it is no coincidence that, and common sense, were side- 105 106 107 108 109 EM I CRUZ L I NE S DARENOT 115 Collectively version of The Wall els that could be broadly applied break down a business into its at least before the current finan- ing us the gritty (perhaps dis- lined in the process. RING IRONCLAD RANDRY component parts, from raw mate- graceful) details of the marketing 110 111 112 113 114 116 Personal pieces of writing Street Journal Crossword, OSGOOD ODE EMAGS across the business world. BCG’s cial crisis wreaked its havoc, 117 Category of savings bond WSJ.com subscribers model for the “experience curve,” rials to finished products, and young business hotshots were and packaging process. He notes Mr. Wooldridge is The Econo- 115 116 117 ITSLATE SOME OOZES 118 Clear squares can go to DERNTOOT I N THERONROOM for instance, taught companies then subject those parts to the turning their attention to finan- that a worrying number of con- mist’s management -editor and 118 119 120 119 Rob Roy ingredient WSJ.com/WeekendJournal IRATE GYNT ENACT ENNE that they could reduce their costs rigors of cost-benefit analysis. cial engineering. About a third of sulting engagements end in tears— the author of its Schumpeter col- 120 Loudly expressed pleasure GATOR SAGS MONKS DESE as they expanded their market Yet success brought intense former McKinsey and BCG con- McKinsey had a long-term rela- umn.

W2 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W15 v Top Picks v Film ‘Das Rheingold’: A failed flight of fantasy Paris: For just a few moments at The timeless appeal of ‘Breathless’ the opening of “Das Rheingold” at the Paris Opera Bastille, it looks as if German director Günter Krämer’s Elisa Haberer Jean-Luc Godard’s groundbreaking debut feature remains a cult classic 50 years on new production might take off in a lovely flight of stagecraft fantasy, with the trio of Rhine maidens on By Tobias Grey old-fashioned swings wafting back HEN “BREATHLESS” pre- and forth in a flurry of pink feathers miered in Paris on March 16, and floating crimson chiffon. Courtesy of Sotheby’s W1960, its audacity stunned But that magic moment soon de- New Ireland figure of man with audiences in a way no first film was scends into the hackneyed atmo- outstretched arms (circa supposed to. For make no mistake, sphere of a lowbrow cabaret carni- 1880s-1890s). Estimate: this monochrome masterpiece was val, with ham-fisted attempts at hu- Œ250,000-Œ350,000. Jean-Luc Godard’s first full-length mor: the Rhine maidens’ slinky pink- feature. Not since another young up- sequined mermaid gowns have red- start,bythenameofOrsonWelles,ex- sequin pasties in all strategic areas; Oceanic Art’s ploded onto the scene with “Citizen the gods of Valhalla sport rubbery Kane” 20 years earlier had a first- faketorsos—muscularforthemales, time film so radically redefined the bare-breasted for the females; and captivating grammar of filmmaking. the hordes of giants seem to be part Fifty years on and “Breathless” telephone linemen, part guerrilla collection (“A Bout de Souffle”) is still the commandos in balaclavas waving unique French film that remains red revolutionary flags. HE EMOTIVE POWER of cool for everyone to have watched Meanwhile, Loge, the god of fire, TOceanic Art will be illus- at least once. It has been name- is a cigar-chomping Winston trated by a Sotheby’s sale in checked in recent films like Churchill-style carnival barker in a Paris this month. “Knocked Up” and “The Squid and tattered suit singed with brimstone. On March 24, Sotheby’s the Whale,” and in television series Then, as Valhalla is built, banners will offer the Rosenthal Col- like “The L Word.” And it was the proclaim “Germania,” as in World lection of Oceanic Art with subject of a sappy Hollywood re- Peter Sidhom as Alberich and a trio of Rhine maidens. Capital Germania, Nazi architect Al- 37 lots, including dramatic make that hardly bowled people bert Speer’s idealized vision of a figures, masks and orna- over when it came out in 1983. transformed Berlin. Rheingold, or L’Or du Rhin as it is ippe Jordan and the Paris Opera Or- nicely supported by French mezzo- ments. Eight pieces from The original, though, remains a It’s all over the top, a three-ring billed here, is the much-anticipated chestra offer a truly fine, fluid inter- soprano Sophie Koch as Fricka and master-class in cinematic smarts circus, and, like a throwback to the first installment of the Paris Opera’s pretation, and the singers provide Danish soprano Ann Petersen as by a 29-year-old filmmaker who his thumb across his lips à la Bogey. bad old days of recent memory at first full production of Wagner’s top-notch performances, especially Freia.InacameoappearanceasErda— Collecting made up the rules as he went “Poiccard is perhaps Godard the Opera, opening night curtain four-opera Ring of the Nibelung cy- those devilish gods. English tenor inexplicably gowned like Queen Vic- MARGARET STUDER along. Inspired by the Italian neo- thinking of the kind of gangster he’d calls launched a war between ap- cle since 1957. Kim Begley is in full command of the toria—Chinese contralto Qiu Lin realists and the documentary film- like to have been if he hadn’t be- plause and raucous booing. But in the end its really only the stage as Loge, Anglo-Eqyptian bari- Zhang is superb. —Judy Fayard making of his New Wave colleague come a cineaste,” says film writer The new production is all the opera itself that counts, and on that tone Peter Sidhom is wonderfully www.operadeparis.fr New Ireland in Papua New Jean Rouch, particularly Rouch’s Antoine de Baecque, whose engross- more disappointing because this level things are clearly better. Phil- nasty as Alberich, and they are Until March 28 Guinea will be at the collec- Côte d’Ivoire-set “Moi, Un Noir” ing biography “Godard” was pub- tion’s heart. New Ireland (“I, A Negro”), Mr. Godard decided Left: Alamy; above: Rex Features lished in France earlier this month. carvings have long fasci- to film the fictional world of Mr. Godard’s ambition with nated artists and collectors. “Breathless” like a reportage, us- “Breathless” was to make a chilling The complex sculptures, ing natural light. This meant re- French crime movie. “Although I ‘Love Never Dies’ special effects stun, singing sags which are on an extraordinar- versing the French tendency of felt ashamed of it at one time,” said ily high level of carving skill, shooting almost exclusively in the Mr. Godard two years after his film’s London: Some aspects of An- miliar affected chord progressions haunt viewers with their in- studio and finding a hand-held cam- release. “I do like ‘Breathless’ very drew Lloyd Webber’s “Love Never and harmonies that make up (and for tensity and otherworldliness. era light enough to film on the much, but now I see where it be- Dies,” his sequel to “Phantom of the me trivialize) brand Lloyd Webber. Before the First World streets of Paris. longs—along with ‘Alice in Wonder- Opera” at the Adelphi Theatre, The casting is just sad. The only War, the German Expression- The only light-weight camera of land.’ I thought it was ‘Scarface’.” Catherine Ashmore where the half-masked egomaniac really musical voice I heard on the ists in particular came under the epoch was the Cameflex which relocates from Paris to Coney Is- first night belonged to the Phan- the spell of New Ireland’s rich had rarely ever been used for the cin- Mr. Godard’s sardonic sense of land, are wonderful. Real imagina- tom’s bastard son (Harry Child), the imagery. After 1918, the ema before because of the incessant humor and the almost playful ways tion has gone into Bob Crowley’s secret of whose parentage is thrown French Surrealists promoted noise it made. This obstacle was in which he pumped new life into a sets and costumes; and the Phan- away by feeble book. Joseph Mill- art that their leader André quickly overcome by Mr. Godard stagnating medium meant that his first film, despite its tragic ending, tom’s lair, with a chorus consisting son, as the alcoholic, wronged aris- Breton said filled one with who decided he could post-synchro- could never have resembled any- of a pyramid of Medusa-heads sus- tocratic husband, might have the “fear and wonder.” nise his film’s dialogue by way of Jean-Paul Belmondo thing as much as his own impish im- pended in mid-air, and an automa- makings of a singer. Niamh Perry, A star lot of the Rosenthal looping, meaning he could also feed with Jean Seberg in a who was a finalist in some sort of TV scene in ‘Breathless’; age. All these years later the great ton percussionist, is fabulous. Scott Collection’s New Ireland seg- his actors lines of speech while the talent show, sounded like one of my ment will be a stunning above, the film’s French jazz pianist Martial Solal, who com- Penrose’s special effects are the camera was turning. talkative cats when very hungry. painted sculpture from movie poster. posed the suspenseful and romantic kind of theatrical magic only big The film’s remarkably natural Sierra Boggess plays Christine, around the 1880s or 1890s street shots were made possible be- music of “Breathless,” still doesn’t money can buy. Paule Constable’s and in this sequel has to choose be- which is believed to repre- cause Mr. Godard and his slimmed- know if Mr. Godard was joking when lighting is subtle, as are Jon tween leaving with the husband or sent a clan chief. The power- down crew did everything to make he suggested that he should per- Driscoll’s projections. The produc- singing the “aria” her Phantom ful, surreal man stands with themselves invisible to passers-by. tard. “He would arrive with that success of his first film “The 400 haps focus on just one instrument tion is sensational to look at. lover has composed for her. The con- both arms outstretched, his “Jean-Luc [Godard] is one of the day’s scene under his arm and no- Blows” (1959), along with fellow New for the film’s score—a banjo. “I ig- However, the book, credited to ceit that she has an operatic voice is ribcage and liver exposed (es- only directors I’ve ever met who body would know what was ex- Wave filmmaker Claude Chabrol, had nored him in the end,” says Mr. So- Lord Lloyd Webber and Ben Elton, is about as credible as that Ramin Ka- timate: Œ250,000-Œ350,000). knows how to film in the street be- pected of them. If he hadn’t written to vouch for Mr. Godard’s reliability lal. “But with Godard you never rubbish; and Glenn Slater’s lyrics rimloo (the Phantom) will some day Another highlight will be a cause he always finds a way of keep- anything for that day then we didn’t as a director to assuage the concerns know if he’s being serious, or if he’s rhyme “Beneath a Moonless Sky” knock ’em dead at La Scala. frightening, carved mask ing his camera out of sight,” says work at all.” of Beauregard and the film’s main fin- having his own private joke.” with the grammatical solecism “for —Paul Levy with staring eyes and a black Mr. Coutard recalls one incident ancier, a French distributor called Ramin Karimloo as the Phantom. Joking aside, Mr. Godard, who you and I.” The score uses all the fa- www.loveneverdies.com snake for a nose from the in particular when Mr. Godard rung René Pignères. Truffaut also wrote turns 80 this December,could be fear- end of the 19th century (esti- The script was a work in progress, with Godard him up complaining of having eaten the film’s original treatment: a story less too, some might say reckless. mate: Œ50,000-Œ80,000). “a bad pizza” the night before: “He ripped straight from the headlines Faced by the challenge of cutting The Rosenthals began the writing the day’s dialogue the night before, told me to tell everyone that they about young car thief Michel Portail, down “Breathless” by an hour Mr. Go- who went on the lam with his Ameri- Hermitage puts Modern Art pioneers on display in Amsterdam the French collection around wouldn’t be working that day. When dard inventedin a waythat couldhave or even the same morning on a bistro table. can journalist girlfriend after killing 40 years ago when the cou- I telephoned [producer] Georges de gone horribly wrong but didn’t. In- Amsterdam: Henri Matisse, the including Wassily Kandinsky, Mau- arts scene since opening last year. Beauregard he went absolutely a French motorcycle policeman. ple moved to French Polyne- stead of dispensing withentire scenes most accomplished of the Fauvist rice De Vlaminck and Amedee Ozen- Dominatingtheviewoftheexhib- nuts.” Afterward, Beauregard went sia, and lived there for more Mr. Godard, who had already di- he devised a system of jump cuts painters, elevated artistic instinct fant,originallycamefromthecollec- it’s main room as you walk in is Mat- than 20 years. the film’s cinematographer, Raoul for a coffee in a bistro not far from rected four short films, retained the which cut away hundreds of snippets against the academic rigor of the tions of two Russian patrons, Ivan isse’s landmark 1908 canvas “The Other works in the sale Coutard, who went on to collabo- where Mr. Godard was staying and crux of Truffaut’s original treatment of film as opposed to several swathes. day, and won. From all accounts, he Morozov and Sergei Shchukin, who RedRoom:HarmonyinRed.”Sixteen come from New Zealand, Eas- rate with Mr. Godard on a further 16 found the director already there eat- but developed the two main charac- It was the filmic equivalent of sculpt- enjoyed the fight. In a 1907 essay, at the turn of the century hoped to worksfrom theFrench masterare on ter Island, the Sepik region features. For the famous shots of ing his breakfast. A fight ensued ters Michel Poiccard (Belmondo) ing and the ground-breaking result writer and art critic Guillaume Apol- bring nascent West European styles display, flanked by Fauvist and Cub- of Papua New Guinea, New stars Jean-Paul Belmondo and Jean which ended up with “the two men and Patricia Franchini (Seberg) to spawned thousands of imitations. linaire quotedMatisseassayingthat to their Russian homeland. The col- ist masterpieces: from Henri le Fau- Britain and New Caledonia. Seberg walking down the Champs rolling around in the gutter.” match his own existential obses- the artist’s personality “develops lections were confiscated after the connier’s menacing “The Signal” Sotheby’s specialist Al- Elysées, Mr. Coutard spent most of For director and producer there sions. In a letter to Truffaut thank- “Nowadays there’s a generally ad- and affirms itself through the strug- October Revolution in 1917, and in (1915) to De Vlaminck’s “Small Town exis Maggiar says prices his time lying on his belly in the was a lot more than they cared to ing him for his treatment, Mr. Go- hered to way of making films,” says gles it has to endure against other 1948endedupinlargepartinthecol- on the Seine” (circa 1909). have risen for Oceanic Art back of a postman’s pushcart. acknowledge riding on “Breath- dard wrote: “The story will be about Mr. Coutard. “But back then for a personalities.” lections of the Hermitage. As the exhibition’s concluding in the past five years. At a The film’s script was very much a less.” Mr. Godard was living in a a guy who thinks about death and a while a lot of us thought that we At Hermitage Amsterdam, “Mat- Thisisthesecondfullexhibitionin piece,particularlyaptisthechoiceof Sotheby’s sale in December work in progress with Mr. Godard state of “penury and sadness,” ac- girl who doesn’t.” The character of could make films with anything at isse to Malevich: Pioneers of Mod- the Hermitage’s new branch on the Kazimir Malevich’s “Black Square” 2009, a Sepik mask with a frantically writing the next day’s dia- cording to friend and fellow direc- Poiccard (played with feline grace all, about anything at all, in any way ern Art from the Hermitage” fea- Amstel. The scale of some of the (circa1930)—theartist’sprimeexpo- deconstructed human face logue the night before, or even very tor François Truffaut; while Beaure- by Mr. Belmondo) is a particularly we chose. I directed a few which went tures more than 75 works drawn works and the sheer number of can- sition of his suprematist style. fetched Œ324,750, well early the same morning on a bistro gard who had come off the back of fascinating, albeit misogynistic, con- belly up… We have a tendency to for- from the permanent collections of vasesbyleadingnamesserveasacom- —Joel Weickgenant above a pre-sale estimate table. “Nobody working on the film several flops was himself on the struct whose obsession with Hum- get the genius of Jean-Luc Godard.” Pictoright Amsterdam 2009 the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. pelling display of how much value the www.hermitage.nl/en ‘Lady in a Black Hat’ (1908) of Œ180,000. had a clue what [Godard] wanted to verge of bankruptcy. phrey Bogart finds expression in a —Tobias Grey is a writer Many of the paintings, from artists Hermitage hasaddedtoAmsterdam’s Until Sept. 17 by Kees van Dongen. do most of the time,” recalls Mr. Cou- Truffaut, who was basking in the puerile tic which has him brushing based in Paris

W14 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W3 v Food & Wine

! "# $% &'($ ) " $ $#"! $ *$*"!% "'$&"# " 9)! &!! + ,(% *!&"!" ! 0 0) &(-% .""! @A,*# *& - )!* ))!+ ,#& !* ,*!+ - / &( ( :#' ,( 1,/ ( & - > "! ( 9 &+&!/ B& - :#&( 0*&!#A, B )&/ ) *.*+( &/ / &( $( / 0&1 ,! / '*&! *&/ !)# '&/ !#& # / '*&! *&/ ' ? !!#! B( 9* $ )!# # ( @+ C#A*( ! &+&!( '*&! &*#!&/ )&/ , &( *!/ &*), !$! $##!#&( # *) ,*##'/ ,#( (&!!(( D 4 )).( 2 3 ( 4 ( 5,6 078 2 3 (4( + #( 5,6 078 ;*&!( < =,&( 5,6 078 3( 4( 9 @:#( 5,6 078 * $ % # ! " # $ $

Taking a chance in Vegas #' !% $& +"&01# *-% ,/ &!# *$/% '$$ " 1, # &*' !1 / $& ! % + & $0 ! $#"! $ 4'#E! $& *"& !% ,/ :#& # ! '+ 4# #& 1, :# :#' $! :: &#!# ). - #: :#&( (1 )#&* ))!+( )!* :#&/ &! &)( ! ,&/ / 7*&!:# H,( I1!! !* &/ !#;* $*1 #:#' - !/ ! !/ '&& '/ , &&/ )#:! F!!+( 1, &( $( - / &( $( * #( #:! )/ !& #& #'&( I& - *!&!#' :#&( ( 4 &:!+/ &*/ # / ,! &/ # *&/ 1, '*&! !!'/ )( ? ,#& - .)&#: & :#&( 2 3(4 ! A City Center visit finds fine dining at Sage and Twist, empty seats at Shaboo )).( 2 3 ( 4 $*#& ( 5,6 078 ( 1 '*&( 2 3( 4( 5,6 078 2 3(4 $*#& ( 5,6 078 2 3( 4( &+ G( 5,6 078 &! ( # $$ !% &'! ( !'! $ )! *+ # $

By Raymond Sokolov headliner Shawn McClain (Sage) burners integrated into our table. Las Vegas and Masayoshi Takayama (Bar We counted eight courses and many MARTIAN LANDING in MGM Masa and Shaboo), wizard of raw- ingredients flown in at great cost Mirage’s huge and elegant ness at Masa in Manhattan’s Time from Japan. And it may be that if we ACity Center would think that Warner Center, were the biggest were a couple of deeply experienced Above, the entrance to Shaboo and Bar Masa, and the restaurant’s Toro tartare news in this first season of City Cen- Japanese shabu-shabu lovers, this the 69-acre site with its six hotel &(-% .""! 1, ( #:#' *""&0!% ,# " 1,/ ( 1,! '+# !% #"! K#!# &! # # *!&1"#% 2'1+ % "!" " *.*#*& with caviar; below, baked ‘farm’ egg and foie gras crème brûlée at Sage. ter’s struggling but apparently via- would have been some kind of pinna- and condo towers designed by - #' ##'&/ !)+ #! / $!( I/ ,#&/ $ 1&!+ ( &( (/ ,&/ ,! &/ *)&!#& 1,/ (1,! # #&!# #&!#! world-class architects had plopped ble leviathan. cle in our overcosseted gustatory lives. But as non-adepts at this form 1, !>& *&( D 4 )).( #:#' / )*& &! ,! / :!/ $E( &! , - &*#! ,! ( &) - ' #:#' &)&/ E E#& &/ && ! down in the center of Sin City’s If, however, the only restaurant 2 3( 4 ( @+ C#A*( 5,6 078 3( 4( 7#' H&( 5,6 078 '&/ #' #&! ! :#'( $* ! #!#&( 03( 4( *#& Strip as smoothly as his saucer. you fetched up in here was Mr. of mink-lined Zen cookery, we had a * $ % # " % ( 4( =;*# I( 5,6 078 GJ#( 5,6 078 Most terrestrials, even casual read- Takayama’s Shaboo, you would far finer time for far less liquidation $ $ $ &( 1! 23 $ ),-! . ers of financial news like me, know have been on your Droid right away of euroyen across the hall in the vast that this behemoth nearly col- selling MGM Mirage short. Admit- Aria lobby-atrium-casino at Sage. lapsed into a bankruptcy that tedly, Shaboo sets the bar very Young Mr. McClain isn’t trying threatened the monetary health of high, even for the highflyingest for a Guinness world record as its biggest partner, Dubai. diner: $500 a person for a set but priciest chef at Sage. But he might deserve one for most eclectically at- But now the place is well on its unpredictable meal, exclusive of tentive to high-end trends. Sage’s way to completeness. Gamblers are wine service and tax. And even if subfusc elegance serves as an all- feeding the slots at Aria, the central you are willing to blow that kind of purpose foil for food that repre- property. Shoppers are trolling for coin on a blue-chip version of the sents his personal version of dishes glitz in Daniel Libeskind’s cavernous traditional Japanese hot-pot cui- that are hot all around the gastro- funhouse of a mall, Crystals. There is sine, you will also have to pass a stratosphere. There’s a delicious major-league art everywhere, by credit check and not lose your foie gras crème brûlée, a triumph of ("' 3"/"4*"0 % .""! 1,/ 1,! ! !!"& % 0 @,+ 4/ # ( ,,- $ + "0% $& *"-$% "!& '" 2#;* '% ("'" % 0"/" <# * !!# RobertRauschenberg,Jenny Holzer, nerve after two warnings, one from unctuous texture plays. Also a slow- '!+( 4&! &*#! - &*( 7&/ ! 51))!# #:#' - :*! #1 :)! ! ! # #* :#& - ,*!#$* , ( 1*#! )F! - 1 FrankStellaand,fromNancyRubins, a reservationist and the other from *!/ ! - ,,* ( D 4 )).( #'/ )&! # =, !+( ,&/ & - $ !&/ !!, '&& &/ 1, &( *!#$* ' a captain, about how pricey your in- cooked “farm” egg, Iberico pork, tof- a monumental assemblage of multi- fee pudding—and a lot of other cur- 2 3 ( 4 ( @+ C#A*( 5,6 078 ,! &/ &!$$ ,& ,! &( 3 (4( #E#!+ )&( *), *#!+ #!#&( :#&!&( G&!1&!+ #!#&( 3< ! 3( 4( dulgent dinner is going to be. colored boats moored together in rently hot ideas that are executed * $ % # # 4#/ 0 H#&( 5,6 078 2 3 < ! 2 3 (4( 5,6 078 " G, *)( 5,6 078 the circular traffic island facing Pelli You also have to find Shaboo, with assurance and originality. $ $ *' / &(0( $ 4 *! # $ )!5 6 )0 ! . $$ $ Clarke Pelli’s hugely shimmering which is a dark inner sanctum For a meal that truly justifies 61-story Aria and Rafael Viñoly’s re- tucked away to the side of Bar the worn-out accolade “fine din- strained, casino-less hotel/condo- Masa, Mr. Takayama’s main Las Ve- ing,” Sage is your destination in minium Vdara. But most enticing for gas tent, which is shaped like a step- City Center. For something even me was the lure of three “fine-din- roofed pagoda and serves higher and brighter, but not ridicu- ing” restaurants masterminded by sushi/sashimi improvisations (aka- lously overfussy, reserve at Twist, three famous chefs. mutsu deep-sea snapper from Pierre Gagnaire’s bistro de luxe on How did we pick this trio out of Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that the 23rd floor of the discreet new the dozens toothsomely described had local dining critics gasping Mandarin Oriental. in City Center’s advance publicity? with disbelief. I’d already eaten with mixed emo- They had to be outposts of very well- Will Mr. Takayama ever fill the tions at Mr. Gagnaire’s flagship res- respected venues outside Vegas potential maximum of 418 seats at taurant in Paris some years ago, find- *!& -% * 5 1,/ (1,! $"! * ' # "## ! % * 5 0*!+ '". '% "7% +"3 # K# / !! #" +""% '!&" # $& % '' '"- 01 whose chefs had never worked here Bar Masa? Maybe if the big conven- ing its florid food amazingly intri- ( # '! *#!+/ *1 &!! - ,&/ ( ,! &( 4#!!# 1 &( ( !/ ,&/ ,! &( I& )* !&( &*#! ,& )*& before. This may have been unfair to tions overcome Obama-era shame. cate but a muddle in the mouth, like !# :#&/ E E#& &/ E)&/ !&/ )/ )/ #* &)#'( 8:!/ # )!#&( 0*#!+ #!#& #* )/ , ( &!/ ,! &( 1, '*&! *&( ( # Michael Mina’s American Fish or But now attendance in the big top is a failed finger painting by an overly )/ '&( 2 3( 4( 5,6 078 / #1B #! !/ '*&! &#!( ' 2 34( "#& &)( 5,6 078 *) ;*&!( !!+ # ( 5,6 078 Julian Serrano’s clever-looking cele- sparse and my wife and I had Sha- ambitious schoolkid: All those care- 6 !( 2 3(4 $*#& ( 5,6 078 !$ + 8 #9 $ & $ bration of Spain, named after him- boo, with its intimate 52 seats, all to fully managed ingredients melted to- $$ 7 )0 ! $ $ $ self, at Aria, or Wolfgang Puck’s Bis- ourselves, literally, except for a gal- gether without any unifying taste tro inside Crystals. But news is lant staff of young women atten- drama. So I wasn’t an easy sell at news. And the arrival of three-star dants, who helped us get the hang of Twist, despite its eagle’s view of the ! " French mastertoque Pierre Gag- pushing foie gras and other luxury lights of Vegas (a rare glimpse of the #$% #&!#&'!&!!&( ( #&!#&'!&!!&( naire in North America, and the oddments around in broth simmer- rest of the city from hermetic City

MGM Mirage (4) Clark County debuts of Chicago ing over cool magnetic induction Center) and the knowing assistance

W4 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W13 v A racegoer watches the horseracing Sport through binoculars; left, horses jump one of the fences during the Jewson Novices’ Handicap Steeple Chase at the The scent of Burgundy Cheltenham Festival in 2008. FEW YEARS ago it was re- shirt, newly pressed blazer or corpo- Aported that the Bureau Interpro- rate presentation. fessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne On the day we meet, Bruno had had developed a “web parfumé” brought over the wines for his tast- project which enabled users of the ing in a suitcase from Burgundy. He Internet, via a hand-held diffuser, to is first and foremost a farmer, physically smell the aromas of Bur- never happier when he’s getting his gundy’s wine domaines from the hands dirty tending his vines. His comfort of their home computer. I’m approach is twofold: intense work not sure if it would ever replace a in the vineyard and minimal inter- vention in the winemaking process. From pruning, to looking after the Wine vines during the summer, to making decisions such as whether to WILL LYONS green harvest (the practice of re- moving unripe bunches of grapes to trip to the Côte d’Or or whether the reduce the yield, thus increasing gadget ever took off but I can only the concentration of the wine) to assume that the inventors hadn’t making decisions in the cellar with read Anthony Hanson’s seminal his winemaker Philippe Brun, every- book on the region. thing is done by Bruno, the man whose name is on the label. At this point the Burgundy train- It is this authenticity that pulls spotters among you will roar with me back time and time again to laughter. For the rest of us, let me the thin 48-kilometer strip of land explain. In 1982, Mr. Hanson, then that begins just south of Dijon and head of Christie’s wine department, ends in Chalon-sur-Saône and is no caused a bit of a stir when he more than 1,500 meters wide at wrote in his book “Burgundy” that any given point. In an age where “great burgundy smells of s—.” winemaking is neatly, if somewhat With a few years bottle maturity, simplistically, divided into two great red Burgundy can indeed take camps—those that shape the char- on a vegetal, gamey odor, a smell I acter of a wine using technology A showdown at the horses associate with decay or in some cir- and those that see wine as a reflec- cumstances the vegetal character tion of terroir. Burgundy falls into of the forest floor. I often find my- the later every time. Kauto Star and Denman to vie for the big prize at the Cheltenham Gold Cup self writing “farmyardy” although Agence France-Presse/Adrian Dennis (2) Part of its appeal lies with its having grown up on a pig farm I rich history. Vines have been tended By Dominic Prince an air of romance and drama. It is out the biting chill of the wind. the Ryanair Chase on the Thurs- world’s most supremely gifted am referring to the more delicate in this region for more than 2,000 among the biggest horserace meet- But unlike, say, Royal Ascot or day,” Monsignor Byrne says. His jumping horses participating, you N THE WORLD of English end of the agricultural spectrum. years. Wine was grown here during ings in Europe), and this year the the English Derby there is no horse has paid terrific dividends have to offer top-ranking prizes. horseracing, a sport that is in de- The point is the scent of pinot the Roman republic and later culti- organizers are expecting more dress code. You won’t be barred too, winning nearly £500,000 in This year there will be a £3.5 mil- Icline, the Cheltenham Festival is noir, without question the most vated by nobles, peasants and an anomaly: the four-day meeting than a quarter of a million racego- for wearing jeans and trainers, prize money during his career. lion prize fund for the owners of evocative of grape varieties, can monks under the rule of Charle- in March continues to triumph. ers, collectively paying an envi- and that in part is the secret of Steeple chasing, as jump racing the horses. take on a myriad of smells from magne. It thrived during the Medi- able £7 million in entrance fees. Cheltenham’s success. is known in the U.K., is an impor- Set in a steep-sided, stony The festival is a beacon of cherry, violet and rose petal to eval period when the Benedictine Racegoers come from all over tant sport here. The Cheltenham Gloucestershire valley in south- All sorts attend, rich and hope in an otherwise depressed black olive, leather and oak. These and Cistercian monks established Europe, with the biggest contin- Gold Cup and the Grand National west England that creates a natu- poor. The dress at Cheltenham is market place. Horseracing in the wines, compared with their cousins large vineyard holdings. Indeed, driv- ral amphitheater around the track, all tweeds and brogues. Men in gent being the Irish—more than in Aintree, both National Hunt U.K. is in trouble, and it is also un- in Bordeaux, are light in texture, ing down the route 74 toward the Cheltenham’s March 16-19 spring loud check suits and trilby hats 50,000 arrive from the Emerald meetings, are two of the year’s of a sommelier I trusted all the more der pressure in the rest of Europe, and can dance down the palate Medieval town of Beaune is to cut festival combines some of the fin- mingle with ladies draped in fur Isle alone. There is a betting mar- iconic sporting fixtures. Contrast since I had spied her at lunch at the Japan and New Zealand. Terres- with their scintillating acidity. through a landscape that to a large est jump racing in the world with with thick woolen coats to keep ket on the outcome of the battle this to the U.S. where support for trial TV coverage has been hacked Beard Award-nominated Thai res- I was reminded just how ubiqui- extent hasn’t changed for 400 between the English horses and the sport is marginal, or to Austra- back, due mainly to declining view- taurant Lotus of Siam, an unglamor- tous this grape can be at a recent years. But it wasn’t until the 17th the Irish raiders. This year around lia where animal-rights activists ing figures, and although the state- ous mecca for feinschmeckers with and 18th centuries when the church tasting of the wines of Bruno Clair. 15% of the 500 or so horses which are trying to have it banned on owned Channel 4 TV covers the a renowned German wine list in a started selling off land to the local DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES grotty mall north of the Strip. I have been buying Bruno’s wines will do battle over the 1.5-meter- cruelty grounds. festival and other race meetings, bourgeois, a process accelerated by since the mid-’90s and although high solid brushwood fences will The animal-welfare protesters it only does so with the sponsor- Mr. Gagnaire has reined in his the French Revolution, that its wines they are by no means inexpensive have been trained in Ireland. have a point. Jump racing is a ship backing of Darley, a horse- vaunted creativity and produced a began to attract international ac- given the quality, his prices haven’t GREECE UNITED STATES And 2010 is going to see a spe- very dangerous sport both for the breeding operation owned by the menu at Twist that, as Michelin says claim. More than any other historical of its top choices, rates a special disappeared off into the strato- cial battle. Two horses at the top of horse and for the jockey. But over ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed. figure it was Napoleon—and in partic- trip. He hasn’t abandoned his sphere either. their game, Kauto Star and Den- recent years much has been done High admission prices of up to ular his laws of equal inheritance— take-no-prisoners style. But a dish Bruno typifies the type of vign- man, ridden respectively by Ire- to address this at Cheltenham. £75 a ticket, betting competition who did more than anyone to shape like the foie gras tasting—four sepa- eron still plying their trade in Bur- land’s champion jockey, Ruby Equine fatalities at the festival from other sporting events, low today’s character of the region. Such rate preparations (terrine with gundy. While the appellations sur- Walsh, and Britain’s equivalent, have dropped from a high in 2006 prize money for owners and bad is the complexity that a 40 acre vine- dried figs and toasted ginger bread; rounding Bordeaux are peppered Tony “AP” McCoy, the most success- when deaths of horses ran into service have all been blamed for yard can be owned by as many as 15 ful jump jockey in the history of the custard with green lentils and with grand Palladian-style châteaux double figures over the four-day the sport’s decline. But the truth different vignerons. Within these sport, will battle it out on the final period to zero in 2009. Fences grilled zucchini; seared, with duck frequented by absent, in many multiple owned vineyards each wine is that horseracing has been very glaze and fruit marmalade; cro- day of the event. They will be rac- have been modified, greater atten- cases foreign owners, in Burgundy can taste differently. If ever there bad at selling itself. Deigned too quette with trevicchio purée), by be- Texas Irrigated Citrus Orchard ing for the third time in the Gold tion is paid to the welfare of the the contrast couldn’t be more pro- was a convincing argument for the Approx. 60 acres with frontage on elitist on the one hand (it was af- ing divided into four compartments, ! " Cup for a prize fund of nearly horses and qualification has been nounced. There’s no smooth sales expression of terroir, this is where it paved road near McAllen. Profit ter all a sport that was started by organizes your sensations, and adds # $ averages $80,000 yearly - has future £500,000. So far the honors have tightened up. Injuries to both patter, there’s no crisply ironed can be found. the British aristocracy, and to this up to an awe-inspiring and analytic residental development possibilities. been spread evenly with one vic- horses and jockeys are neverthe- Contract management in place day the royal family are keen own- tribute to the most overused expen- tory a piece, and it is fair to say less inevitable. Ideal for absentee owner ers and followers) and too down- sive ingredient of all. ! "# $ %&'()! that there is great excitement “If the ground is hard, or fast as $1,200,000 market on the other. Another rea- Mr. Gagnaire has also turned e-mail @ [email protected] among the racing community about it is called, then the jockeys tend to son is the lack of sporting super- into an American locavore, sourcing the outcome. go at break-neck speed and as we stars, the absence of horses like his never-confined veal in Wiscon- Alan Cooper, 51 years old, who Stunning Plantation Home all know speed kills,” says former Sea Biscuit, Pharlap and Red Rum. sin from the estimable Strauss com- has been attending the festival Modern elegance & rustic beauty. Pris- three-time-winning Cheltenham pany. And if you want to see what a since he was a child, says, “Chel- jockey Marcus Armytage. “If the Edward Gillespie, 57, has been SPAIN tine environment with luxurious the chief executive of Cheltenham great cook can do with American lob- amenities. Perfect setting for privacy and tenham for me is apotheosis of ground is fast, injuries do happen for the past 30 years and he ster, try the symphonic dish that in- relaxation,inspiration, activeoutdoor life- English and Irish jump racing, but they have taken great care to cludes lobster poached in Sauternes style. $2,950,000 puts the success of the festival where owners, trainers and stable make sure the ground is soft; 2006 with an impressive entourage of gar- www.braysislandhome.com staff gear their year toward this was a bit of a fluke.” down to a concoction of ele- ments. “The people are great nishes and a lobster bisque. pinnacle in the calendar. There is Cheltenham has consistently If you are raising an eyebrow WATERFRONT PROPERTIES always a friendly rivalry going on bucked the trend against other company, the quality of the racing is unparalleled anywhere in over my use of the term “locavore,” and I think that goes back to the British horse racetracks, some of well, let me clarify. I don’t claim 1940s when the great Irish trainer which fail to get crowds approach- the world and it is a truly egali- LAGUNA BEACH, CA, USA tarian event,” he says. “You can that, for any amount of money, any- Vincent O’Brien was so prevelant.” ing 1,000. It is in the top 10 of one could source virtually any food Among the throng are Irish U.K. sporting fixtures in terms of buy yourself into a £600 deal for a day, but frankly most people do in the Nevada desert in midwinter. I priests, including Monsignor John attendance, television-viewing fig- mean that Mr. Gagnaire knows not bother, they pay £25 and Byrne from Portlaisoe, a demon ures and profitability. More than enough to pick ingredients pro- have a fantastic time.” tipster and racehorse owner. Fa- £1 million are expected to be bet duced with ultimate finesse in the What Cheltenham proves is if ther Sean Breen, had, until his on-course on each of the nearly U.S. He isn’t flying potatoes in from death last year, not missed a Chel- 30 races and total betting reve- you invest heavily in prize money France. And his prices (about $50 INVESTMENT PROPERTIES and give the spectators an enter- 2 spectacular, oceanfront family vacation tenham Festival in 40 years. Oth- nues will likely top £600 million for an à la carte entrée; $185 for a !" villas with great income. ers, like Father Breen, used to over the four days, the highest of taining, affordable day out, you’ll six-course tasting menu) make #$ % & $ 3-unit villa US $6M or 8-unit villa US $9M bless the horses before they did any sporting event in the U.K. The attract top-class horses and high- Twist look like a bargain in the 50% equity on both properties US $7M battle over the ferocious fences outcome of the races has a huge spending visitors. It has to be the same mega-complex that hopes to Jeff Green for The Wall Street Journal (3) ' ( )*+,-,'. /+'(- '-(-' Excellent fractional opportunity and testing course. way to go. Call in US at (949) 310-9002 impact on the profits of the lead- support Shaboo. [email protected] “I’ll be coming over to watch ing British bookmakers. But, to —Dominic Prince is a But, of course, if you win big at From top: ‘langoustine five ways’ at Twist, sea scallops and foie gras www.bestlagunavacations.com my horse, Schindler’s Hunt, run in show high-class races with the writer based in London the tables... at the restaurant, the main dining room at Twist.

W12 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W5 v Fashion How to pull off the new runway styles

Key looks suggest autumn’s fashions are going to be sporty and classic—and far from boring

Paris favorite boutique and ask them to ges HE FUR HOODIE. The tailored order it or arrange a trunk show blazer that doubles as a with the designer. These days, it’s ! Tcape. The simple sheath possible to see most full collections % ? 86 % dress digitally printed with a gi- online at fashion houses’ Web sites H " 4" % ant landscape and turned abstract. or sites such as Style.com. Come au- % & > C% Key looks from the just-ended tumn, designers will be creating 7% . 8 (. % their spring 2011 collections. : !" # # " % runway shows in Paris suggest fall’s ! & % $ " % &'( +++0 fashions are going to be sporty and Here’s a guide to the trends that " ; % - 3 " classic—but far from boring. showed up on the runways. They’ll 1 " ? % &'( )**))+ trickle down to all sorts of brands. =% " , - . /% On Style Mongolian goat and sheep fleece: Seen in vests, coats, and trims, Christina Binkley 5 " /!0 % & dramatic, long-haired fleece— '' & ! ! ''1- ! ! along with some faux look- In New York, London, Milan and alikes—is a key look for the sea- Paris, designers’ fall collections son. While these coats can risk a ' 0 G : / were dominated by deluxe sports- bulky Nanook-of-the-North look, ! 7 % +12 # @# wear and exceptional tailoring. The the latest vests avoid that. Lanvin (% % # clothes were wearable, with twists was particularly successful with a + (. % 3 4 5 +*6 4 such as dramatic fur and leather de- coat, vest and lighter embellish- ++4 ; tails, flattering lean silhouettes, ments on boots. Other designers &'( * *+)6 % &'( 166+ &'( 8)6+ and chic shoes that weren’t 20-cen- who pulled off this look were - < (# ( 7 imeter platform combat heels. Jean Paul Gaultier and Viktor & Most of the clothes even Rolf. Some designers, including looked as though they might fit Lefranc Ferrant, said they use the real women, as well as the grace- goat and sheep fleece because ful giraffes on the catwalks. the animals were killed for their " # $ % & " # $ % & “Sometimes we as designers miss meat, not just their luxury skins. ( ! ''(' ) (' ! !) ''(( ! !) what real women want to buy. It looks great on the runway but you Intriguing suits: miss the reality,” says Giambat- The suit is back. Period. The “Char- +* ' 6 @ ' 0 % 1 " % tista Valli, whose clients include lie girl” suit was all over the run- % !''D > @ ) % $ 8 1 # % # 7 %% % Pepsico Chairman Indra Nooyi. ways. Shoppers may want to be + 1 (. % D2,=% 7 + (. % 3 % The shows in Paris—the grand wary of the versions with large * > * % =% *1 > (. # % finale of the collections shown each notched lapels and wide-bottomed Clockwise from top right, Reuters; Associated Press/Jacques Brinon; Nathalie Lagneau/Catwalking/Getty Images; Agence France-Presse/Getty Ima % &'( 866* 9 # season—ended Wednesday. Now, pants, which will look dated in a &'( 8)06 D / &'( 8)0* stores are placing their orders and few years. For more timeless suits, 7 9 :% designers are moving on to the look to Celine, which went slightly manufacturing phase of the season. minimalist, and Yves St. Laurent, They’ll lengthen some skirts or which focused on new technical tex- close slits that served to create tiles and cape-blazer concoctions " # $ % & " # $ % & " # $ % & drama on the runway, and the with top-notch tailoring. And don’t ( ! !) ''('- ! !) ''((( ! !) clothes will start appearing in miss those white cotton YSL stores in August—some as early as blouses to match. July—after the summer sales end. ! . D '; If you see a favorite look on the The end of giant shoes: A% % # %;% runway, now is the time to call your There is hope for those who % % . " have cringed at the Clydesdale (. (. % 1 # > &'( &- *1 6* # ; % % footwear that has been popular " ' % Arbitrage for several years. This season, % 3 &'( *1 + &'( * 100 there were plenty of coy heels— & - entirely sans platforms—and !% < '= even flats on the runways. Giam- A Logitech battista Valli’s kitten heels were a delight, colorful and playful. 2 3 3 $ % & 2 3 3 $ % & universal Rochas’s flat boots and curvy ( ! ! ( ! ! '(' ! ’60s heels were edgy. And all remote the thigh-high boots—a trend carrying over from last year— ' % # % 2 %" 9 2 > ? , have the added benefit of length- # %% * # %;% ening the figure. Clockwise from top # 9 left: fur hoodie by # @ " Fur blocking: Jean Paul Gaultier; a % 0 (. % # % When designers use geometric design by Karl " % =% 7 > Lagerfeld; Rochas’s *8 &'( 1*6+ ((A % blocks of color, it’s called “color &'( * 06) 3 . blocking.” For want of a better flat boots; a striking 7 (; *+ , !& Local term, let’s call this year’s trend “fur print jazzed up a City currency Œ blocking”—big fur arms on a coat simple Akris sheath. or blazer, a fur panel at the front or back of a skirt. !0 % & * ! + , (-- ! '' 1 ! ! -( #& ! London £120 Œ132 This look is dramatic. Timeless it’s not. It takes some courage to inkblot-like shape ran vertically up Leggy looks: New York $229 Œ168 wear this trend. Some of the best the front of a dress. If you turned Despite what your office dress looks came from Nina Ricci, where the dress sideways, the image code may say, hose are still out. ,/ # , 3 % % '; % *6 $ %;% ' D4! > # % designer Peter Copping started the turned out to be a scene of moun- Leggings, skinny pants and color- 4*(. % % % 4 % # # Rome Œ198 Œ198 fur sleeves just below the shoulder tains reflected on a lake. On a sim- ful tights are still in. Look to Ba- # # ) =% # " on a coat. ple sheath, the look was timeless lenciaga for a zany, colorful take % % " % % 6 " 2 and artful. on skinny pants, which can be 2 " # + # ; # " 4 " 7"4 Frankfurt Œ199 Œ199 Arresting prints: worn under tunics or dresses. * ! " E ! # " # 4% For years, you’ve been able to print a Sporty luxury: Karl Lagerfeld used latex-look leg- F < - , D . % -B(/ . photo of your dachshund on your From Jean Paul Gaultier’s fur gings, which managed to be sexy Brussels Œ215 Œ215 handbag, thanks to digital-printing hoodie and knit sweatpants to the while dressing down more formal techniques. Now, luxury textile mak- leather patch-pockets on Celine’s tailored looks. And don’t be ers are exploring the artistic possibili- tailored wool pieces, the fall season afraid of bright-colored tights, 2 4 # 5 0 6 . Paris Œ219 Œ219 ties. As a result, memorable prints is defined by its mix of materials in like the teal ones at Jean Paul ((- 2 4 ! '(- #& 0 ! -- ) '- # ! are showing up on runways, some of ways that either dress up sports- Gaultier. ! " # $ #% & Note: Prices for the Harmony One model, plus them created by a camera. wear or dress down more formal taxes, as provided by retailers in each city, '! (! # '! )! (! & (& (" ( The season’s best appeared on looks. The idea is to look noncha- See a slideshow of fall trends at fashion

averaged and converted into euros. t weeks at WSJ.com/Lifestyle. Akris’s runway, where a Rorschach lant and comfortable.

W6 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W11 v Luxury From saddles to yachts at Hermès Artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas adopts change while upholding tradition at the French luxury house

By Alexandra A. Seno IERRE-ALEXIS DUMAS em- braces innovation. But as & # # 9 Pthe sixth-generation member -- 7( of his family to lead, in his case, ;0 < 5 #! . the creative end of the French lux- ( (! # ury house Hermès, he must up- ! 12,3 $$%! ! hold tradition, as well. "# # $% . ,! # Best known for its leather goods ! & "# ' ! ! #( ) . ! )!. > such as the Birkin bag, Hermès— # ! ) ( (! which began in 1837 as a saddle #! shop in Paris—currently has 17 de- * + ! partments creating products that range from perfume, apparel and .+ !" # / tableware to jewelry, cashmere $$, 0$,$$ 1 throws and yes, saddles. Over the ! % past two years Mr. Dumas, as the company’s artistic director, has ex- =# 9! , #7#( 6 # "( 1 . # 3 panded Hermès’s offerings to in- /: %-0 G # " ? ? =! G clude a $7.6 million (Œ5.6 million) # # ( # helicopter, a $2.1 million car and a ! . , # $109 million yacht. 0- # ( # “My grandfather used to tell ! % # # ! me luxury is what you can repair,” ( &#! # ! ! ! 5 &(! says the 43-year-old Mr. Dumas. . ( ! , ! ? .! Indeed, many Hermès bags have been handed down from mother to daughter to granddaughter. !- ! / & ' !" # Mr. Dumas graduated from - ,$ $ ,, 9- 9 Brown University in the U.S. with a degree in visual arts and has worked at Hermès—first in Paris, ,# ( # ? # $%$ 2 ! then Hong Kong and London— # , since 1993. Time being the ulti- ) #(! * # # ( ! mate luxury, Mr. Dumas recently # --- ! , / # = ! *( # , ! ! 12,3 +$-/- ! #! + took some to have tea with The # !( #! Wall Street Journal in Hong # # ( ,#! 12,3 --0 0 ! ! Kong, and he shared his thoughts ( on the future of luxury. He is # ! ! married with three children un- # . ! der the age of 12, and when he can, he likes to paint at a studio Clockwise from right: Pierre-Alexis Dumas; the 56-meter-long yacht; the Hermès yacht is based on a Norwegian designed hull; the Hermès helicopter. 234 ! !" # he keeps in Paris. , $$ % $ $ % Of all the things you’re doing at the moment, what excites you $/ @ ?" ,# most? ! 0 , ! , #( Working on large-scale design; %! ! # # # , #( #8# until recently, the largest Hermès ! . ! $-A 7 $0A ! 5 2# product was a suitcase. ! ! 12,3 --0--! 12,3 --0- 0! ! B ! ( " 4 %$!/!--$/ 4 ! %$!0$ !$$%! ! + And now? , 4 %$!$-! / ! # ! We make a helicopter with a ! @ F ! company called Eurocopter, a sub- sidiary of the European space agency. We don’t just come in and do decoration. With a heli- ! !" # ! !" # # $ % $ % $, ,$ # copter, the priority is that it flies. We improved the design. !" ! We thought of someone stepping " 5 9#7## 8# ) ! $$--- into the helicopter, it’s a delicate % %-C / , moment, so we added a step—it # ! 6 .D ) / ! * #( is a small detail that improves 78# ( # 4 # 9 the performance. # # =#! & 7! 0--- # # # # # How many have you sold? # # /--- $ --- # ! ! 0 ! We’ve delivered two and we ! ! ! $ ! *( &! " ! ! " 4 ! 4 #! (>! have six orders. We just launched > # ! it a year ago. We’re not into vol- ume, especially in this large scale design. It’s the level of quality. & ' ( 5& / 6 5& / 6 $ & ) ,,,$ - ,,$, $ - And now you want to build " # ! yachts?

That’s a very large-scale design. Clockwise: Hermes, Samantha Sin for The Wall Street Journal, ArtFactory Lab, Toni Meneguzzo. 2 9 2E( ( F# 9#7## . )3 ) -- # # What is the price tag on that? the luxury for tomorrow? One of a feeling of acceleration of every- very interested in expanding the tered companies to design-cen- # ( ( #( 0: ! F ( Between Œ80 million to Œ110 them is time. thing. We have to slow down. line. We have to reinvent our- tered companies. People come to ( -A ! 6 # million. The industry standard is selves. If we launch a perfume contribute to Hermès like it is a # 78# ! +# 9 $---A Œ1 million per meter. A super- What do you think of our cul- That said, do you have a fa- and it is like what we did in the collective creative project. Jean ( # ( , # yacht is about 100 meters long. ture of constant change? vorite disposable object? ’70s, what’s the point? We are Paul Gaultier [the designer of ; -- %%--

W10 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W7 v Art Loraine Bodewes

By Kelly Crow

event of the season. Rodney Graham/Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth; Kunstkammer Georg Laue; Galerie G. SARTI For years, this 10-day Dutch fair was con- s sidered a footnote in the annual art market calendar. During the boom, collectors put a pre- mium on high-profile contemporary-art sales like the Art Basel fairs in Switzerland and Mi- ami, and the biannual modern and contemporary-art sales of Christie’s and Sotheby’s in London and New York. While prices for Rem- brandt and Raphael rose slightly, prices for liv- Clockwise from top right, Dickinson; ing artists like Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons were skyrocketing to record highs. Now the Old Masters are roaring back. Clockwise from far left: the vetting at Tefaf 2008; Paul Gauguin’s The highest price paid last year for a work of ‘Deux femmes’ (1902); Artist’s model posing for ‘The Old Buglar, art at auction was for Christie’s $48 million among the fallen, Beaune de Roland’ by Rodney Graham; Raphael chalk drawing, “Head of a Muse,” Venetian-Dalmatian coral renaissance cutlery (circa 1600); (1508-11) sold in December. Christie’s also triptych (circa 1360) by Niccoló di Tommaso. broke Rembrandt’s record by getting $33.2 million for his “Portrait of a Man, Half- Length, With Arms Akimbo” (1658). Sothe- by’s, meanwhile, got a record £8.3 million three months ago for Anthony van Dyck’s Treasure trove “Self Portrait” (1640). Old Masters roar back as collectors seek safer bets in Maastricht Everything that once made such Renais- sance men appear old-fashioned—their scholarly followings, their steady price levels—has their behalf. everything on new art,” Ms. McAndrew said. a financial boon: All of Maastricht’s 2,000 ho- now become a strong selling point. Although Some of the fair’s traditions—like its fa- David Leiber, director of New York gallery tel rooms are reserved this weekend, accord- the recession hurt every art category last bled vetting process—are unheard of at other Sperone Westwater, says he’s already noticed ing to the city’s tourism office, and VIPs have fairs. Earlier this week, dealers had to step out- this salon-style aesthetic filtering into the year, Old Master values at auction only fell filled up the handful of luxury hotels and es- side the convention for hours so that 168 art homes of major collectors across the U.S., Bra- tates that ring the city’s outskirts, including 12% last year, compared to a 60% drop for con- scholars and curators could fan out and in- zil and China—a noticeable departure from Chateau St. Gerlach, a former monastery. temporary art, according to Clare McAndrew, spect every object. About 100 objects deemed the white-cube living rooms that were more a Dublin-based art economist. Old Masters The fair’s atmosphere is a refreshing depar- inauthentic or of “poor quality” were placed popular during the contemporary boom. also have a history of rebounding quickly ture for collectors like Mickey Cartin. The in storage until fair’s end, said Henk van Os, an Fair organizers said they tried to capitalize New York collector began buying modern mas- from downturns: As an investment asset, art-history professor at the University of Am- on interest from foreign buyers by hosting ters like Joseph Albers two decades ago but older art yielded a 6.2% compound annual re- sterdam who oversees the vetting commit- cocktail events for collectors at Dutch embas- says he’s grown “bored” of contemporary turn over the past decade, besting the nega- tees. Mr. van Os said only a few dealers for- sies in Brazil and Argentina in recent months. fairs in urban centers like New York and Lon- tive 1.4% for the S&P 500 for the same period, mally appeal such temporary losses, but, he This year for the first time, they included galler- don. Maastricht is his new mainstay—he’s according to the Mei Moses Annual Old Mas- added, “sometimes I do get screamed at.” The ies from mainland China and South America. come for the past five years, and now his col- ter Art Index, which tracks repeat sales of fair says it began vetting works years ago to Also new is a section for works on paper in- lection includes illuminated manuscripts, thousands of artworks at auction and com- weed out potential fakes or duds. (By concluding rare books and photography, whose 15th-century gold altarpieces, and paintings pares the trajectory of art prices to other fi- trast, other fairs ask juries to screen their ros- price levels can be a fraction of major Old Mas- by Dutch Old Master Hans Memling. nancial barometers ter of fair applicants but don’t vet their indi- ter canvases. One highlight from the new sec- During the fair’s preview yesterday, Mr. Thanks to Tefaf’s large inventory of older Cartin and his collections manager and a few art—about 70% of the marketplace’s available friends ambled through the fair’s aisles, stop- Old Masters show up here—the insured value Everything that once made Old Masters appear ping in Mr. Günther’s booth to admire the of its goods on display this week outstrips jewel-toned pages of Albrecht of Branden- Christie’s annual sales last year by at least burg’s 1555 manual on military strategy. Mr. $700 million. old-fashioned—their scholarly followings, their steadyCartin said he comes to the fair to discover “When you walk into this fair, you just works he’s never seen anywhere, an element gasp,” said Phyllis Allen, a collector from Cor- price levels—has now become a strong selling point. of discovery that he prefers to building an en- pus Christi, Texas, who is visiting with donors viable roster of trendy art names. When the from the Art Museum of South Texas. “It re- vidual offerings.) tion is Tiepelo’s “Head of Giulio Contarini, af- blackout hit, he was poring over glass cases of ally feels like you’re shopping in a museum.” Security is also tight: Additional video cam- ter Alessandro Vittoria,” which Barcelona ancient books: “I wish the cases weren’t The priciest works this year include Paul eras equipped with face-tracking technology dealer Artur Ramon is selling for roughly locked,” he joked. Gauguin’s “Deux Femmes” (1902), a violet- were added to the fair’s exits after thieves $273,500. Some longtime fair dealers were ner- For the museum world, the fair doubles as and-lime-colored portrait of two Tahitian stole $1.2 million worth of diamonds from a vous about the shift. Four rare-book dealers an informal reunion. The fair packs its vetting women that London gallery Dickinson is offer- booth two years ago. (The thieves were later like Mr. Günther, who is selling the Marco Polo squads with curators, some of whom go shop- ing for $26 million. Other highlights include caught but the gems had already been fenced, manuscript, got permission from the fair to ping after the fair opens and their vetting du- the Ludolphus Carthusiensis, a historical vol- said a fair spokeswoman.) keep their usual booth spots, rather than move ties are complete. ume illustrating the life of Christ that was The fair also had a scare during the VIP pre- to the new works-on-paper section where they Budget cuts are still taking a toll, though. commissioned by a French noblewoman, Phil- view on Thursday when the convention cen- weren’t sure their regular clients would spot Susan Bandes, director of the Kresge Art Mu- ippe of Gueldes, in 1506. German dealer Jörn them. Dealers like Mr. Günther rely on the fair ter’s electrical transformer overloaded seum in East Lansing, Michigan, saved up sev- Günther wants $3.5 million for the book. to bring in a third of their annual income. around 2:17 p.m. and caused a seven-minute eral years of interest earned on her museum’s Overall, about 263 galleries from around the The fair does bring in some contemporary- endowment before she had enough to merit a blackout. Nothing was reported stolen and worldareparticipating,upfrom239lastyear.To art dealers, like Iwan Wirth, a Swiss dealer trip to Maastricht last year. Ms. Bandes came the crowd reacted calmly, said fair organizers. orientvisitorsinthevastlocalconventioncenter with spaces in Zurich, London and New York, home with a glowing seascape by Jan van The security system remained intact because aisles are given names like Champs Elysées, who joined the fair four years ago and sold a Goyen, now one of the museum’s six Dutch Old Place de la Concorde and Sunset Boulevard. it is powered by a separate source, a fair half-dozen works in the fair’s first few hours, Masters. But this year, she had to trim the bud- Last year, organizers said 225 museums spokeswoman added. Collectors milled including a bronze bust of a mustachioed get by 10% so she’s staying home, she said. sent representatives to browse or buy, and around, sipping champagne and in a few Mona Lisa by Subodh Gupta. Mr. Wirth says Not so for Ms. Allen, the Texas collector this year’s contingent includes Madrid’s cases, using flashlights to continue shopping. the payoff of attending the fair can be small who, along with nine others, is planning to Prado museum and Boston’s Museum of Fine Old Master paintings remain the calling card for him, as a percentage of his overall sales, spend at least two days trolling the fair’s Arts. Top collectors in town include Beth Ru- of this 23-year-old fair, but collectors are also but the fair grants him access to traditional wares. “My ladies want to look lovely, but I’m din deWoody, a real-estate heiress who sits on finding solid values in other segments once collectors that he would miss on his regular telling them they better wear comfortable several museum boards; Amsterdam-based deemed unfashionable, like Renaissance circuit of newer fairs. “I know a lot of people, shoes,” she said. “It’s a feast for the eyes, but film producer Frans Afman; and Dutch bank- bronzes, medieval manuscripts and Louis XVI- but the fair still represents unknown territory it’s still hard on your feet.” ers Dirk Scheringa and Jan-Michiel Hessels. era table clocks. “Everyone is realizing that for me,” he said. Others like J. Tomilson Hill, vice chairman of those with boring, stable, diversified collections For a medieval city with cobblestone See a slideshow of works from Tefaf at WSJ.com/Lifestyle.

the Blackstone Group, sent agents to scout on are faring better than the speculators who bet streets and a population of 118,000, the fair is t

W8 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W9 v Art Loraine Bodewes

By Kelly Crow

N THIS SMALL, Dutch town near the Belgian border, a space the size of five football fields brims this week with $4 billion worth of art. There’s a $15 million Botticelli, “Madonna and Child with the Infant Saint John,” I(circa 1445-1510) hanging on one wall, and a $7.5 million Gilbert Stuart portrait of George Washington (1796) on another. Art dealers are competing to set up the most opulent booths: One Belgian art dealer has smothered a few walls of his booth with dirt to evoke an 8th- century Korean library. The European Fine Art Fair, or Tefaf, opening today, is the art event of the season. Rodney Graham/Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth; Kunstkammer Georg Laue; Galerie G. SARTI For years, this 10-day Dutch fair was con- s sidered a footnote in the annual art market calendar. During the boom, collectors put a pre- mium on high-profile contemporary-art sales like the Art Basel fairs in Switzerland and Mi- ami, and the biannual modern and contemporary-art sales of Christie’s and Sotheby’s in London and New York. While prices for Rem- brandt and Raphael rose slightly, prices for liv- Clockwise from top right, Dickinson; ing artists like Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons were skyrocketing to record highs. Now the Old Masters are roaring back. Clockwise from far left: the vetting at Tefaf 2008; Paul Gauguin’s The highest price paid last year for a work of ‘Deux femmes’ (1902); Artist’s model posing for ‘The Old Buglar, art at auction was for Christie’s $48 million among the fallen, Beaune de Roland’ by Rodney Graham; Raphael chalk drawing, “Head of a Muse,” Venetian-Dalmatian coral renaissance cutlery (circa 1600); (1508-11) sold in December. Christie’s also triptych (circa 1360) by Niccoló di Tommaso. broke Rembrandt’s record by getting $33.2 million for his “Portrait of a Man, Half- Length, With Arms Akimbo” (1658). Sothe- by’s, meanwhile, got a record £8.3 million three months ago for Anthony van Dyck’s Treasure trove “Self Portrait” (1640). Old Masters roar back as collectors seek safer bets in Maastricht Everything that once made such Renais- sance men appear old-fashioned—their scholarly followings, their steady price levels—has their behalf. everything on new art,” Ms. McAndrew said. a financial boon: All of Maastricht’s 2,000 ho- now become a strong selling point. Although Some of the fair’s traditions—like its fa- David Leiber, director of New York gallery tel rooms are reserved this weekend, accord- the recession hurt every art category last bled vetting process—are unheard of at other Sperone Westwater, says he’s already noticed ing to the city’s tourism office, and VIPs have fairs. Earlier this week, dealers had to step out- this salon-style aesthetic filtering into the year, Old Master values at auction only fell filled up the handful of luxury hotels and es- side the convention for hours so that 168 art homes of major collectors across the U.S., Bra- tates that ring the city’s outskirts, including 12% last year, compared to a 60% drop for con- scholars and curators could fan out and in- zil and China—a noticeable departure from Chateau St. Gerlach, a former monastery. temporary art, according to Clare McAndrew, spect every object. About 100 objects deemed the white-cube living rooms that were more a Dublin-based art economist. Old Masters The fair’s atmosphere is a refreshing depar- inauthentic or of “poor quality” were placed popular during the contemporary boom. also have a history of rebounding quickly ture for collectors like Mickey Cartin. The in storage until fair’s end, said Henk van Os, an Fair organizers said they tried to capitalize New York collector began buying modern mas- from downturns: As an investment asset, art-history professor at the University of Am- on interest from foreign buyers by hosting ters like Joseph Albers two decades ago but older art yielded a 6.2% compound annual re- sterdam who oversees the vetting commit- cocktail events for collectors at Dutch embas- says he’s grown “bored” of contemporary turn over the past decade, besting the nega- tees. Mr. van Os said only a few dealers for- sies in Brazil and Argentina in recent months. fairs in urban centers like New York and Lon- tive 1.4% for the S&P 500 for the same period, mally appeal such temporary losses, but, he This year for the first time, they included galler- don. Maastricht is his new mainstay—he’s according to the Mei Moses Annual Old Mas- added, “sometimes I do get screamed at.” The ies from mainland China and South America. come for the past five years, and now his col- ter Art Index, which tracks repeat sales of fair says it began vetting works years ago to Also new is a section for works on paper in- lection includes illuminated manuscripts, thousands of artworks at auction and com- weed out potential fakes or duds. (By concluding rare books and photography, whose 15th-century gold altarpieces, and paintings pares the trajectory of art prices to other fi- trast, other fairs ask juries to screen their ros- price levels can be a fraction of major Old Mas- by Dutch Old Master Hans Memling. nancial barometers ter of fair applicants but don’t vet their indi- ter canvases. One highlight from the new sec- During the fair’s preview yesterday, Mr. Thanks to Tefaf’s large inventory of older Cartin and his collections manager and a few art—about 70% of the marketplace’s available friends ambled through the fair’s aisles, stop- Old Masters show up here—the insured value Everything that once made Old Masters appear ping in Mr. Günther’s booth to admire the of its goods on display this week outstrips jewel-toned pages of Albrecht of Branden- Christie’s annual sales last year by at least burg’s 1555 manual on military strategy. Mr. $700 million. old-fashioned—their scholarly followings, their steadyCartin said he comes to the fair to discover “When you walk into this fair, you just works he’s never seen anywhere, an element gasp,” said Phyllis Allen, a collector from Cor- price levels—has now become a strong selling point. of discovery that he prefers to building an en- pus Christi, Texas, who is visiting with donors viable roster of trendy art names. When the from the Art Museum of South Texas. “It re- vidual offerings.) tion is Tiepelo’s “Head of Giulio Contarini, af- blackout hit, he was poring over glass cases of ally feels like you’re shopping in a museum.” Security is also tight: Additional video cam- ter Alessandro Vittoria,” which Barcelona ancient books: “I wish the cases weren’t The priciest works this year include Paul eras equipped with face-tracking technology dealer Artur Ramon is selling for roughly locked,” he joked. Gauguin’s “Deux Femmes” (1902), a violet- were added to the fair’s exits after thieves $273,500. Some longtime fair dealers were ner- For the museum world, the fair doubles as and-lime-colored portrait of two Tahitian stole $1.2 million worth of diamonds from a vous about the shift. Four rare-book dealers an informal reunion. The fair packs its vetting women that London gallery Dickinson is offer- booth two years ago. (The thieves were later like Mr. Günther, who is selling the Marco Polo squads with curators, some of whom go shop- ing for $26 million. Other highlights include caught but the gems had already been fenced, manuscript, got permission from the fair to ping after the fair opens and their vetting du- the Ludolphus Carthusiensis, a historical vol- said a fair spokeswoman.) keep their usual booth spots, rather than move ties are complete. ume illustrating the life of Christ that was The fair also had a scare during the VIP pre- to the new works-on-paper section where they Budget cuts are still taking a toll, though. commissioned by a French noblewoman, Phil- view on Thursday when the convention cen- weren’t sure their regular clients would spot Susan Bandes, director of the Kresge Art Mu- ippe of Gueldes, in 1506. German dealer Jörn them. Dealers like Mr. Günther rely on the fair ter’s electrical transformer overloaded seum in East Lansing, Michigan, saved up sev- Günther wants $3.5 million for the book. to bring in a third of their annual income. around 2:17 p.m. and caused a seven-minute eral years of interest earned on her museum’s Overall, about 263 galleries from around the The fair does bring in some contemporary- endowment before she had enough to merit a blackout. Nothing was reported stolen and worldareparticipating,upfrom239lastyear.To art dealers, like Iwan Wirth, a Swiss dealer trip to Maastricht last year. Ms. Bandes came the crowd reacted calmly, said fair organizers. orientvisitorsinthevastlocalconventioncenter with spaces in Zurich, London and New York, home with a glowing seascape by Jan van The security system remained intact because aisles are given names like Champs Elysées, who joined the fair four years ago and sold a Goyen, now one of the museum’s six Dutch Old Place de la Concorde and Sunset Boulevard. it is powered by a separate source, a fair half-dozen works in the fair’s first few hours, Masters. But this year, she had to trim the bud- Last year, organizers said 225 museums spokeswoman added. Collectors milled including a bronze bust of a mustachioed get by 10% so she’s staying home, she said. sent representatives to browse or buy, and around, sipping champagne and in a few Mona Lisa by Subodh Gupta. Mr. Wirth says Not so for Ms. Allen, the Texas collector this year’s contingent includes Madrid’s cases, using flashlights to continue shopping. the payoff of attending the fair can be small who, along with nine others, is planning to Prado museum and Boston’s Museum of Fine Old Master paintings remain the calling card for him, as a percentage of his overall sales, spend at least two days trolling the fair’s Arts. Top collectors in town include Beth Ru- of this 23-year-old fair, but collectors are also but the fair grants him access to traditional wares. “My ladies want to look lovely, but I’m din deWoody, a real-estate heiress who sits on finding solid values in other segments once collectors that he would miss on his regular telling them they better wear comfortable several museum boards; Amsterdam-based deemed unfashionable, like Renaissance circuit of newer fairs. “I know a lot of people, shoes,” she said. “It’s a feast for the eyes, but film producer Frans Afman; and Dutch bank- bronzes, medieval manuscripts and Louis XVI- but the fair still represents unknown territory it’s still hard on your feet.” ers Dirk Scheringa and Jan-Michiel Hessels. era table clocks. “Everyone is realizing that for me,” he said. Others like J. Tomilson Hill, vice chairman of those with boring, stable, diversified collections For a medieval city with cobblestone See a slideshow of works from Tefaf at WSJ.com/Lifestyle.

the Blackstone Group, sent agents to scout on are faring better than the speculators who bet streets and a population of 118,000, the fair is t

W8 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W9 v Luxury From saddles to yachts at Hermès Artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas adopts change while upholding tradition at the French luxury house

W10 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W7 v Fashion How to pull off the new runway styles

Key looks suggest autumn’s fashions are going to be sporty and classic—and far from boring

W6 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W11 v A racegoer watches the horseracing Sport through binoculars; left, horses jump one of the fences during the Jewson Novices’ Handicap Steeple Chase at the The scent of Burgundy Cheltenham Festival in 2008. FEW YEARS ago it was re- shirt, newly pressed blazer or corpo- Aported that the Bureau Interpro- rate presentation. fessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne On the day we meet, Bruno had had developed a “web parfumé” brought over the wines for his tast- project which enabled users of the ing in a suitcase from Burgundy. He Internet, via a hand-held diffuser, to is first and foremost a farmer, physically smell the aromas of Bur- never happier when he’s getting his gundy’s wine domaines from the hands dirty tending his vines. His comfort of their home computer. I’m approach is twofold: intense work not sure if it would ever replace a in the vineyard and minimal inter- vention in the winemaking process. From pruning, to looking after the Wine vines during the summer, to making decisions such as whether to WILL LYONS green harvest (the practice of re- moving unripe bunches of grapes to trip to the Côte d’Or or whether the reduce the yield, thus increasing gadget ever took off but I can only the concentration of the wine) to assume that the inventors hadn’t making decisions in the cellar with read Anthony Hanson’s seminal his winemaker Philippe Brun, every- book on the region. thing is done by Bruno, the man whose name is on the label. At this point the Burgundy train- It is this authenticity that pulls spotters among you will roar with me back time and time again to laughter. For the rest of us, let me the thin 48-kilometer strip of land explain. In 1982, Mr. Hanson, then that begins just south of Dijon and head of Christie’s wine department, ends in Chalon-sur-Saône and is no caused a bit of a stir when he more than 1,500 meters wide at wrote in his book “Burgundy” that any given point. In an age where “great burgundy smells of s—.” winemaking is neatly, if somewhat With a few years bottle maturity, simplistically, divided into two great red Burgundy can indeed take camps—those that shape the char- on a vegetal, gamey odor, a smell I acter of a wine using technology A showdown at the horses associate with decay or in some cir- and those that see wine as a reflec- cumstances the vegetal character tion of terroir. Burgundy falls into of the forest floor. I often find my- the later every time. Kauto Star and Denman to vie for the big prize at the Cheltenham Gold Cup self writing “farmyardy” although Agence France-Presse/Adrian Dennis (2) Part of its appeal lies with its having grown up on a pig farm I rich history. Vines have been tended By Dominic Prince an air of romance and drama. It is out the biting chill of the wind. the Ryanair Chase on the Thurs- world’s most supremely gifted am referring to the more delicate in this region for more than 2,000 among the biggest horserace meet- But unlike, say, Royal Ascot or day,” Monsignor Byrne says. His jumping horses participating, you N THE WORLD of English end of the agricultural spectrum. years. Wine was grown here during ings in Europe), and this year the the English Derby there is no horse has paid terrific dividends have to offer top-ranking prizes. horseracing, a sport that is in de- The point is the scent of pinot the Roman republic and later culti- organizers are expecting more dress code. You won’t be barred too, winning nearly £500,000 in This year there will be a £3.5 mil- Icline, the Cheltenham Festival is noir, without question the most vated by nobles, peasants and an anomaly: the four-day meeting than a quarter of a million racego- for wearing jeans and trainers, prize money during his career. lion prize fund for the owners of evocative of grape varieties, can monks under the rule of Charle- in March continues to triumph. ers, collectively paying an envi- and that in part is the secret of Steeple chasing, as jump racing the horses. take on a myriad of smells from magne. It thrived during the Medi- able £7 million in entrance fees. Cheltenham’s success. is known in the U.K., is an impor- Set in a steep-sided, stony The festival is a beacon of cherry, violet and rose petal to eval period when the Benedictine Racegoers come from all over tant sport here. The Cheltenham Gloucestershire valley in south- All sorts attend, rich and hope in an otherwise depressed black olive, leather and oak. These and Cistercian monks established Europe, with the biggest contin- Gold Cup and the Grand National west England that creates a natu- poor. The dress at Cheltenham is market place. Horseracing in the wines, compared with their cousins large vineyard holdings. Indeed, driv- ral amphitheater around the track, all tweeds and brogues. Men in gent being the Irish—more than in Aintree, both National Hunt U.K. is in trouble, and it is also un- in Bordeaux, are light in texture, ing down the route 74 toward the Cheltenham’s March 16-19 spring loud check suits and trilby hats 50,000 arrive from the Emerald meetings, are two of the year’s of a sommelier I trusted all the more der pressure in the rest of Europe, and can dance down the palate Medieval town of Beaune is to cut festival combines some of the fin- mingle with ladies draped in fur Isle alone. There is a betting mar- iconic sporting fixtures. Contrast since I had spied her at lunch at the Japan and New Zealand. Terres- with their scintillating acidity. through a landscape that to a large est jump racing in the world with with thick woolen coats to keep ket on the outcome of the battle this to the U.S. where support for trial TV coverage has been hacked Beard Award-nominated Thai res- I was reminded just how ubiqui- extent hasn’t changed for 400 between the English horses and the sport is marginal, or to Austra- back, due mainly to declining view- taurant Lotus of Siam, an unglamor- tous this grape can be at a recent years. But it wasn’t until the 17th the Irish raiders. This year around lia where animal-rights activists ing figures, and although the state- ous mecca for feinschmeckers with and 18th centuries when the church tasting of the wines of Bruno Clair. 15% of the 500 or so horses which are trying to have it banned on owned Channel 4 TV covers the a renowned German wine list in a started selling off land to the local DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES grotty mall north of the Strip. I have been buying Bruno’s wines will do battle over the 1.5-meter- cruelty grounds. festival and other race meetings, bourgeois, a process accelerated by since the mid-’90s and although high solid brushwood fences will The animal-welfare protesters it only does so with the sponsor- Mr. Gagnaire has reined in his the French Revolution, that its wines they are by no means inexpensive have been trained in Ireland. have a point. Jump racing is a ship backing of Darley, a horse- vaunted creativity and produced a began to attract international ac- given the quality, his prices haven’t GREECE UNITED STATES And 2010 is going to see a spe- very dangerous sport both for the breeding operation owned by the menu at Twist that, as Michelin says claim. More than any other historical of its top choices, rates a special disappeared off into the strato- cial battle. Two horses at the top of horse and for the jockey. But over ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed. figure it was Napoleon—and in partic- trip. He hasn’t abandoned his sphere either. their game, Kauto Star and Den- recent years much has been done High admission prices of up to ular his laws of equal inheritance— take-no-prisoners style. But a dish Bruno typifies the type of vign- man, ridden respectively by Ire- to address this at Cheltenham. £75 a ticket, betting competition who did more than anyone to shape like the foie gras tasting—four sepa- eron still plying their trade in Bur- land’s champion jockey, Ruby Equine fatalities at the festival from other sporting events, low today’s character of the region. Such rate preparations (terrine with gundy. While the appellations sur- Walsh, and Britain’s equivalent, have dropped from a high in 2006 prize money for owners and bad is the complexity that a 40 acre vine- dried figs and toasted ginger bread; rounding Bordeaux are peppered Tony “AP” McCoy, the most success- when deaths of horses ran into service have all been blamed for yard can be owned by as many as 15 ful jump jockey in the history of the custard with green lentils and with grand Palladian-style châteaux double figures over the four-day the sport’s decline. But the truth different vignerons. Within these sport, will battle it out on the final period to zero in 2009. Fences grilled zucchini; seared, with duck frequented by absent, in many multiple owned vineyards each wine is that horseracing has been very glaze and fruit marmalade; cro- day of the event. They will be rac- have been modified, greater atten- cases foreign owners, in Burgundy can taste differently. If ever there bad at selling itself. Deigned too quette with trevicchio purée), by be- Texas Irrigated Citrus Orchard ing for the third time in the Gold tion is paid to the welfare of the the contrast couldn’t be more pro- was a convincing argument for the Approx. 60 acres with frontage on elitist on the one hand (it was af- ing divided into four compartments, ! " Cup for a prize fund of nearly horses and qualification has been nounced. There’s no smooth sales expression of terroir, this is where it paved road near McAllen. Profit ter all a sport that was started by organizes your sensations, and adds # $ averages $80,000 yearly - has future £500,000. So far the honors have tightened up. Injuries to both patter, there’s no crisply ironed can be found. the British aristocracy, and to this up to an awe-inspiring and analytic residental development possibilities. been spread evenly with one vic- horses and jockeys are neverthe- Contract management in place day the royal family are keen own- tribute to the most overused expen- tory a piece, and it is fair to say less inevitable. Ideal for absentee owner ers and followers) and too down- sive ingredient of all. ! "# $ %&'()! that there is great excitement “If the ground is hard, or fast as $1,200,000 market on the other. Another rea- Mr. Gagnaire has also turned e-mail @ [email protected] among the racing community about it is called, then the jockeys tend to son is the lack of sporting super- into an American locavore, sourcing the outcome. go at break-neck speed and as we stars, the absence of horses like his never-confined veal in Wiscon- Alan Cooper, 51 years old, who Stunning Plantation Home all know speed kills,” says former Sea Biscuit, Pharlap and Red Rum. sin from the estimable Strauss com- has been attending the festival Modern elegance & rustic beauty. Pris- three-time-winning Cheltenham pany. And if you want to see what a since he was a child, says, “Chel- jockey Marcus Armytage. “If the Edward Gillespie, 57, has been SPAIN tine environment with luxurious the chief executive of Cheltenham great cook can do with American lob- amenities. Perfect setting for privacy and tenham for me is apotheosis of ground is fast, injuries do happen for the past 30 years and he ster, try the symphonic dish that in- relaxation,inspiration, activeoutdoor life- English and Irish jump racing, but they have taken great care to cludes lobster poached in Sauternes style. $2,950,000 puts the success of the festival where owners, trainers and stable make sure the ground is soft; 2006 with an impressive entourage of gar- www.braysislandhome.com staff gear their year toward this was a bit of a fluke.” down to a concoction of ele- ments. “The people are great nishes and a lobster bisque. pinnacle in the calendar. There is Cheltenham has consistently If you are raising an eyebrow WATERFRONT PROPERTIES always a friendly rivalry going on bucked the trend against other company, the quality of the racing is unparalleled anywhere in over my use of the term “locavore,” and I think that goes back to the British horse racetracks, some of well, let me clarify. I don’t claim 1940s when the great Irish trainer which fail to get crowds approach- the world and it is a truly egali- LAGUNA BEACH, CA, USA tarian event,” he says. “You can that, for any amount of money, any- Vincent O’Brien was so prevelant.” ing 1,000. It is in the top 10 of one could source virtually any food Among the throng are Irish U.K. sporting fixtures in terms of buy yourself into a £600 deal for a day, but frankly most people do in the Nevada desert in midwinter. I priests, including Monsignor John attendance, television-viewing fig- mean that Mr. Gagnaire knows not bother, they pay £25 and Byrne from Portlaisoe, a demon ures and profitability. More than enough to pick ingredients pro- have a fantastic time.” tipster and racehorse owner. Fa- £1 million are expected to be bet duced with ultimate finesse in the What Cheltenham proves is if ther Sean Breen, had, until his on-course on each of the nearly U.S. He isn’t flying potatoes in from death last year, not missed a Chel- 30 races and total betting reve- you invest heavily in prize money France. And his prices (about $50 INVESTMENT PROPERTIES and give the spectators an enter- 2 spectacular, oceanfront family vacation tenham Festival in 40 years. Oth- nues will likely top £600 million for an à la carte entrée; $185 for a !" villas with great income. ers, like Father Breen, used to over the four days, the highest of taining, affordable day out, you’ll six-course tasting menu) make #$ % & $ 3-unit villa US $6M or 8-unit villa US $9M bless the horses before they did any sporting event in the U.K. The attract top-class horses and high- Twist look like a bargain in the 50% equity on both properties US $7M battle over the ferocious fences outcome of the races has a huge spending visitors. It has to be the same mega-complex that hopes to Jeff Green for The Wall Street Journal (3) ' ( )*+,-,'. /+'(- '-(-' Excellent fractional opportunity and testing course. way to go. Call in US at (949) 310-9002 impact on the profits of the lead- support Shaboo. [email protected] “I’ll be coming over to watch ing British bookmakers. But, to —Dominic Prince is a But, of course, if you win big at From top: ‘langoustine five ways’ at Twist, sea scallops and foie gras www.bestlagunavacations.com my horse, Schindler’s Hunt, run in show high-class races with the writer based in London the tables... at the restaurant, the main dining room at Twist.

W12 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W5 v Food & Wine

MGM Mirage (4) Clark County debuts of Chicago ing over cool magnetic induction Center) and the knowing assistance

W4 Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 12 - 14, 2010 W13 v Top Picks v Film ‘Das Rheingold’: A failed flight of fantasy Paris: For just a few moments at The timeless appeal of ‘Breathless’ the opening of “Das Rheingold” at the Paris Opera Bastille, it looks as if German director Günter Krämer’s Elisa Haberer Jean-Luc Godard’s groundbreaking debut feature remains a cult classic 50 years on new production might take off in a lovely flight of stagecraft fantasy, with the trio of Rhine maidens on By Tobias Grey old-fashioned swings wafting back HEN “BREATHLESS” pre- and forth in a flurry of pink feathers miered in Paris on March 16, and floating crimson chiffon. Courtesy of Sotheby’s W1960, its audacity stunned But that magic moment soon de- New Ireland figure of man with audiences in a way no first film was scends into the hackneyed atmo- outstretched arms (circa supposed to. For make no mistake, sphere of a lowbrow cabaret carni- 1880s-1890s). Estimate: this monochrome masterpiece was val, with ham-fisted attempts at hu- Œ250,000-Œ350,000. Jean-Luc Godard’s first full-length mor: the Rhine maidens’ slinky pink- feature. Not since another young up- sequined mermaid gowns have red- start,bythenameofOrsonWelles,ex- sequin pasties in all strategic areas; Oceanic Art’s ploded onto the scene with “Citizen the gods of Valhalla sport rubbery Kane” 20 years earlier had a first- faketorsos—muscularforthemales, time film so radically redefined the bare-breasted for the females; and captivating grammar of filmmaking. the hordes of giants seem to be part Fifty years on and “Breathless” telephone linemen, part guerrilla collection (“A Bout de Souffle”) is still the commandos in balaclavas waving unique French film that remains red revolutionary flags. HE EMOTIVE POWER of cool for everyone to have watched Meanwhile, Loge, the god of fire, TOceanic Art will be illus- at least once. It has been name- is a cigar-chomping Winston trated by a Sotheby’s sale in checked in recent films like Churchill-style carnival barker in a Paris this month. “Knocked Up” and “The Squid and tattered suit singed with brimstone. On March 24, Sotheby’s the Whale,” and in television series Then, as Valhalla is built, banners will offer the Rosenthal Col- like “The L Word.” And it was the proclaim “Germania,” as in World lection of Oceanic Art with subject of a sappy Hollywood re- Peter Sidhom as Alberich and a trio of Rhine maidens. Capital Germania, Nazi architect Al- 37 lots, including dramatic make that hardly bowled people bert Speer’s idealized vision of a figures, masks and orna- over when it came out in 1983. transformed Berlin. Rheingold, or L’Or du Rhin as it is ippe Jordan and the Paris Opera Or- nicely supported by French mezzo- ments. Eight pieces from The original, though, remains a It’s all over the top, a three-ring billed here, is the much-anticipated chestra offer a truly fine, fluid inter- soprano Sophie Koch as Fricka and master-class in cinematic smarts circus, and, like a throwback to the first installment of the Paris Opera’s pretation, and the singers provide Danish soprano Ann Petersen as by a 29-year-old filmmaker who his thumb across his lips à la Bogey. bad old days of recent memory at first full production of Wagner’s top-notch performances, especially Freia.InacameoappearanceasErda— Collecting made up the rules as he went “Poiccard is perhaps Godard the Opera, opening night curtain four-opera Ring of the Nibelung cy- those devilish gods. English tenor inexplicably gowned like Queen Vic- MARGARET STUDER along. Inspired by the Italian neo- thinking of the kind of gangster he’d calls launched a war between ap- cle since 1957. Kim Begley is in full command of the toria—Chinese contralto Qiu Lin realists and the documentary film- like to have been if he hadn’t be- plause and raucous booing. But in the end its really only the stage as Loge, Anglo-Eqyptian bari- Zhang is superb. —Judy Fayard making of his New Wave colleague come a cineaste,” says film writer The new production is all the opera itself that counts, and on that tone Peter Sidhom is wonderfully www.operadeparis.fr New Ireland in Papua New Jean Rouch, particularly Rouch’s Antoine de Baecque, whose engross- more disappointing because this level things are clearly better. Phil- nasty as Alberich, and they are Until March 28 Guinea will be at the collec- Côte d’Ivoire-set “Moi, Un Noir” ing biography “Godard” was pub- tion’s heart. New Ireland (“I, A Negro”), Mr. Godard decided Left: Alamy; above: Rex Features lished in France earlier this month. carvings have long fasci- to film the fictional world of Mr. Godard’s ambition with nated artists and collectors. “Breathless” like a reportage, us- “Breathless” was to make a chilling The complex sculptures, ing natural light. This meant re- French crime movie. “Although I ‘Love Never Dies’ special effects stun, singing sags which are on an extraordinar- versing the French tendency of felt ashamed of it at one time,” said ily high level of carving skill, shooting almost exclusively in the Mr. Godard two years after his film’s London: Some aspects of An- miliar affected chord progressions haunt viewers with their in- studio and finding a hand-held cam- release. “I do like ‘Breathless’ very drew Lloyd Webber’s “Love Never and harmonies that make up (and for tensity and otherworldliness. era light enough to film on the much, but now I see where it be- Dies,” his sequel to “Phantom of the me trivialize) brand Lloyd Webber. Before the First World streets of Paris. longs—along with ‘Alice in Wonder- Opera” at the Adelphi Theatre, The casting is just sad. The only War, the German Expression- The only light-weight camera of land.’ I thought it was ‘Scarface’.” Catherine Ashmore where the half-masked egomaniac really musical voice I heard on the ists in particular came under the epoch was the Cameflex which relocates from Paris to Coney Is- first night belonged to the Phan- the spell of New Ireland’s rich had rarely ever been used for the cin- Mr. Godard’s sardonic sense of land, are wonderful. Real imagina- tom’s bastard son (Harry Child), the imagery. After 1918, the ema before because of the incessant humor and the almost playful ways tion has gone into Bob Crowley’s secret of whose parentage is thrown French Surrealists promoted noise it made. This obstacle was in which he pumped new life into a sets and costumes; and the Phan- away by feeble book. Joseph Mill- art that their leader André quickly overcome by Mr. Godard stagnating medium meant that his first film, despite its tragic ending, tom’s lair, with a chorus consisting son, as the alcoholic, wronged aris- Breton said filled one with who decided he could post-synchro- could never have resembled any- of a pyramid of Medusa-heads sus- tocratic husband, might have the “fear and wonder.” nise his film’s dialogue by way of Jean-Paul Belmondo thing as much as his own impish im- pended in mid-air, and an automa- makings of a singer. Niamh Perry, A star lot of the Rosenthal looping, meaning he could also feed with Jean Seberg in a who was a finalist in some sort of TV scene in ‘Breathless’; age. All these years later the great ton percussionist, is fabulous. Scott Collection’s New Ireland seg- his actors lines of speech while the talent show, sounded like one of my ment will be a stunning above, the film’s French jazz pianist Martial Solal, who com- Penrose’s special effects are the camera was turning. talkative cats when very hungry. painted sculpture from movie poster. posed the suspenseful and romantic kind of theatrical magic only big The film’s remarkably natural Sierra Boggess plays Christine, around the 1880s or 1890s street shots were made possible be- music of “Breathless,” still doesn’t money can buy. Paule Constable’s and in this sequel has to choose be- which is believed to repre- cause Mr. Godard and his slimmed- know if Mr. Godard was joking when lighting is subtle, as are Jon tween leaving with the husband or sent a clan chief. The power- down crew did everything to make he suggested that he should per- Driscoll’s projections. The produc- singing the “aria” her Phantom ful, surreal man stands with themselves invisible to passers-by. tard. “He would arrive with that success of his first film “The 400 haps focus on just one instrument tion is sensational to look at. lover has composed for her. The con- both arms outstretched, his “Jean-Luc [Godard] is one of the day’s scene under his arm and no- Blows” (1959), along with fellow New for the film’s score—a banjo. “I ig- However, the book, credited to ceit that she has an operatic voice is ribcage and liver exposed (es- only directors I’ve ever met who body would know what was ex- Wave filmmaker Claude Chabrol, had nored him in the end,” says Mr. So- Lord Lloyd Webber and Ben Elton, is about as credible as that Ramin Ka- timate: Œ250,000-Œ350,000). knows how to film in the street be- pected of them. If he hadn’t written to vouch for Mr. Godard’s reliability lal. “But with Godard you never rubbish; and Glenn Slater’s lyrics rimloo (the Phantom) will some day Another highlight will be a cause he always finds a way of keep- anything for that day then we didn’t as a director to assuage the concerns know if he’s being serious, or if he’s rhyme “Beneath a Moonless Sky” knock ’em dead at La Scala. frightening, carved mask ing his camera out of sight,” says work at all.” of Beauregard and the film’s main fin- having his own private joke.” with the grammatical solecism “for —Paul Levy with staring eyes and a black Mr. Coutard recalls one incident ancier, a French distributor called Ramin Karimloo as the Phantom. Joking aside, Mr. Godard, who you and I.” The score uses all the fa- www.loveneverdies.com snake for a nose from the in particular when Mr. Godard rung René Pignères. Truffaut also wrote turns 80 this December,could be fear- end of the 19th century (esti- The script was a work in progress, with Godard him up complaining of having eaten the film’s original treatment: a story less too, some might say reckless. mate: Œ50,000-Œ80,000). “a bad pizza” the night before: “He ripped straight from the headlines Faced by the challenge of cutting The Rosenthals began the writing the day’s dialogue the night before, told me to tell everyone that they about young car thief Michel Portail, down “Breathless” by an hour Mr. Go- who went on the lam with his Ameri- Hermitage puts Modern Art pioneers on display in Amsterdam the French collection around wouldn’t be working that day. When dard inventedin a waythat couldhave or even the same morning on a bistro table. can journalist girlfriend after killing 40 years ago when the cou- I telephoned [producer] Georges de gone horribly wrong but didn’t. In- Amsterdam: Henri Matisse, the including Wassily Kandinsky, Mau- arts scene since opening last year. Beauregard he went absolutely a French motorcycle policeman. ple moved to French Polyne- stead of dispensing withentire scenes most accomplished of the Fauvist rice De Vlaminck and Amedee Ozen- Dominatingtheviewoftheexhib- nuts.” Afterward, Beauregard went sia, and lived there for more Mr. Godard, who had already di- he devised a system of jump cuts painters, elevated artistic instinct fant,originallycamefromthecollec- it’s main room as you walk in is Mat- than 20 years. the film’s cinematographer, Raoul for a coffee in a bistro not far from rected four short films, retained the which cut away hundreds of snippets against the academic rigor of the tions of two Russian patrons, Ivan isse’s landmark 1908 canvas “The Other works in the sale Coutard, who went on to collabo- where Mr. Godard was staying and crux of Truffaut’s original treatment of film as opposed to several swathes. day, and won. From all accounts, he Morozov and Sergei Shchukin, who RedRoom:HarmonyinRed.”Sixteen come from New Zealand, Eas- rate with Mr. Godard on a further 16 found the director already there eat- but developed the two main charac- It was the filmic equivalent of sculpt- enjoyed the fight. In a 1907 essay, at the turn of the century hoped to worksfrom theFrench masterare on ter Island, the Sepik region features. For the famous shots of ing his breakfast. A fight ensued ters Michel Poiccard (Belmondo) ing and the ground-breaking result writer and art critic Guillaume Apol- bring nascent West European styles display, flanked by Fauvist and Cub- of Papua New Guinea, New stars Jean-Paul Belmondo and Jean which ended up with “the two men and Patricia Franchini (Seberg) to spawned thousands of imitations. linaire quotedMatisseassayingthat to their Russian homeland. The col- ist masterpieces: from Henri le Fau- Britain and New Caledonia. Seberg walking down the Champs rolling around in the gutter.” match his own existential obses- the artist’s personality “develops lections were confiscated after the connier’s menacing “The Signal” Sotheby’s specialist Al- Elysées, Mr. Coutard spent most of For director and producer there sions. In a letter to Truffaut thank- “Nowadays there’s a generally ad- and affirms itself through the strug- October Revolution in 1917, and in (1915) to De Vlaminck’s “Small Town exis Maggiar says prices his time lying on his belly in the was a lot more than they cared to ing him for his treatment, Mr. Go- hered to way of making films,” says gles it has to endure against other 1948endedupinlargepartinthecol- on the Seine” (circa 1909). have risen for Oceanic Art back of a postman’s pushcart. acknowledge riding on “Breath- dard wrote: “The story will be about Mr. Coutard. “But back then for a personalities.” lections of the Hermitage. As the exhibition’s concluding in the past five years. At a The film’s script was very much a less.” Mr. Godard was living in a a guy who thinks about death and a while a lot of us thought that we At Hermitage Amsterdam, “Mat- Thisisthesecondfullexhibitionin piece,particularlyaptisthechoiceof Sotheby’s sale in December work in progress with Mr. Godard state of “penury and sadness,” ac- girl who doesn’t.” The character of could make films with anything at isse to Malevich: Pioneers of Mod- the Hermitage’s new branch on the Kazimir Malevich’s “Black Square” 2009, a Sepik mask with a frantically writing the next day’s dia- cording to friend and fellow direc- Poiccard (played with feline grace all, about anything at all, in any way ern Art from the Hermitage” fea- Amstel. The scale of some of the (circa1930)—theartist’sprimeexpo- deconstructed human face logue the night before, or even very tor François Truffaut; while Beaure- by Mr. Belmondo) is a particularly we chose. I directed a few which went tures more than 75 works drawn works and the sheer number of can- sition of his suprematist style. fetched Œ324,750, well early the same morning on a bistro gard who had come off the back of fascinating, albeit misogynistic, con- belly up… We have a tendency to for- from the permanent collections of vasesbyleadingnamesserveasacom- —Joel Weickgenant above a pre-sale estimate table. “Nobody working on the film several flops was himself on the struct whose obsession with Hum- get the genius of Jean-Luc Godard.” Pictoright Amsterdam 2009 the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. pelling display of how much value the www.hermitage.nl/en ‘Lady in a Black Hat’ (1908) of Œ180,000. had a clue what [Godard] wanted to verge of bankruptcy. phrey Bogart finds expression in a —Tobias Grey is a writer Many of the paintings, from artists Hermitage hasaddedtoAmsterdam’s Until Sept. 17 by Kees van Dongen. do most of the time,” recalls Mr. Cou- Truffaut, who was basking in the puerile tic which has him brushing based in Paris

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