Sweden's King of the Arctic. By Peter Potterfield

In the extreme north of , a hundred miles (160 kilometers) inside the Arctic Circle, hides the last remote wilderness in Western Europe. This is , and through it runs Kungsleden, the "King of Trails," a 275-mile (443-kilometer) route through an expansive landscape of birch forests, hidden glaciers, powerful rivers, and the highest mountains in Sweden. The sheer scale of the Kungsleden hits home when, at the end of a 16-mile (26-kilometer) day, you realize you've only traversed half of the undulating, glacier-carved valley that you dropped into that morning.

Kungsleden runs through four national parks and a nature reserve. While hiking its entire length requires a month or more, you can appreciate the highlights of the trek by taking a week to cover its northernmost 65 miles (105 kilometers). In addition to the Tjäktjavagge, Lapland's most majestic valley, this week-long section also takes in the range, which includes Sweden's highest peak, Mount Kebne (6,926 feet, or 2,111 meters). But while the Arctic terrain is rugged, there's a certain civility to the Kungsleden. Sturdy suspension bridges span dangerous rivers, and comfortable huts welcome hikers at the conclusion of each day. At both ends of this 65-mile (105-kilometer) route lie two of Sweden's mountain stations, where hot showers and limb- warming spirits will bookend your stay in the wilderness.

FACTS: Staging area: , Sweden Recommended distance: 65 miles (105 kilometers) Total length: 275 miles (443 kilometers) Trail time: 5-7 days Total trip: Ten days Difficulty (scale of 1 to 5, 5 most difficult): 3 Do It Yourself cost: U.S. $1,000-$1,200

Route and tips:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1v-8ophO19KFRRsSTNCswRBOOo5w

“Kungsleden: to Nikkaloukta, don't miss it” We took this trip in the first week of July. This is the start of the busy season, but the route is by no means overcrowded. Each day we met maybe 15 people in total over an 10 hour hiking period, and the huts were generally about half full.

In terms of gear, go as light as possible. There are some good climbs along the way, so you don't want to be too loaded down. The huts have good kitchens, and you can generally buy dried packet meals everywhere except for Singi. For a price. It's worth taking a light camping stove, so you have the chance for a coffee break along the way. The huts are warm, so you can carry just a sleeping sheet, rather than a sleeping bag. There are a couple of dodgy river crossings, so take spare socks. And of course bug spray is a must.

The route itself is well marked and easy to follow. But it's no stroll, so make sure you have some good base fitness before attempting this. Underfoot is a combination of forest trails, wooden boards, and open stoney ground. The stoney sections are long and take some negotiating. They really slow your pace down. Wear good strong well padded walking shoes, preferably with some ankle support. There is also snow to be negotiated at the highest point.

The trail itself is 105km long, and climbs about 850m before descending the same. Most of the climbing is over a two day period in the middle. We recommend limiting yourself to about 15km a day. To really enjoy the experience. It ties in nicely with hut locations for all days bar the second day. We had 2 days of 25km, and that was just too tiring. It's a spectacular environment, and you don't want to be too tired to enjoy it. Especially if the weather turns nasty. That's important to remember, because you are in the mountains. And also carry plenty of water.

There is a very good train service to which drops you off just a few hundred metres from the start of the track in Abisko, and a bus service from Nikkaloukta to the afternoon train in Kiruna. We made the trek in 5 days, but would really recommend that you take 7 days to really enjoy your time. Those long days are very long. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g189817-d583480-r41346812-Kungsleden- Vasterbotten_County.html#

We went on a hiking tour on northest part of Kungsleden, from Abisko in North to Singi in south. There we turned east of Kungsleden and finished in Nikkaluokta, but topped Sweden on the way, by climbing the highest peak in Sweden, Kebnekaise, 2106 m. We started 15th. August and finished 23rd of August. The weather was great, heat almost always above 20°C., with just a slight wind. It rained only part of one day. The time was fine, lot of berries just waiting to be picked and eaten. There are some flies and they can sting. Just be prepaired and the trip will be fine. We started with 17kg backpack, but we found out it is not necessary to bring all the food, you can buy almost everything on the way. Just be aware the all food has to brought to the huts by snowmobiles in the winter, so there are no fresh food. There are canned and dried food. Prices are on the Svenska Turistforeningen website and select Lapland and Kungsleden.(www.svenskaturistforeningen.se). Another thing, you do not need a sleeping bag, as there are pillows and blankets in each bed in the huts, just bring a sleeping bag liner. It weight less than a sleeping bag and takes a less space. In all huts are guards and inside each hut is everything that you need for prepairing food, a gas stowe and the usual kitchen thing. You can drink the fresh water on the way, so do not bring any water. By the huts are dry toilets. You don´t, but have to, get used to the aroma. Best regards. Isar, Iceland. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g189817-d583480-r41346812-Kungsleden- Vasterbotten_County.html#

Little Big Explorations http://i1.wp.com/littlebigexplorations.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/IMG_5140.jpg Kungsleden, “the royal trail”, it’s a 450km trail running into the swedish mountains of Lapland, above the Arctic circle. Thousands of hikers come every year in summer to complete a portion (or all!) of one of the most beautiful treks on the planet and enjoy full wilderness – not even phone connection! The first part of the trail, between Abisko to Nikkaluokta is a rewarding 5- 7 days trek. Highlights – why go trekking above the Arctic circle • Witness the midnight sun (if you go before 18 of July): infinite daylight to trek long and to follow the course of the sun • Experience wilderness: spot reindeers! • Choose your lodging options: Enjoy the swedish allemansrätten – the right to public access, which allows you to camp where you want. This is a huge plus! Contrary to treks in many other places, trekkers with their camping equipment: can here progress at their own pace and camp in remote spots for a feeling of total freedom… or appreciate the comfort offered by the mountains cabins. • Combine the trek with summiting the highest mountain in Sweden, Kebnekaise

Itinerary suggestions – Kungsleden trek day by day The portion between Abisko to Nikkaluokta is the most popular due to its accessibility and the alpine views it offers. The hiking season usually runs from June to September. Be aware that the weather changes quickly in the region and can affect your hiking plans. Late snow fall in season will result in a more muddy path and more difficult river crossings. Stay careful and allow extra time. Below itinerary is based on trekking with a tent, where you can take full opportunity of your freedom and review your plans as you go, depending the weather conditions. About the distances below: distances with an asterisk* are the ones we measured while hiking with our own tracker, the other ones are the official distances provided by STF.

Day 1: Abisko – Abiskojaure, 15-17*km, 5h The trek starts right from the Abisko Tourist train station. Recommended campsite: If the weather is not too bad, push an extra couple of kilometres to get out of the National Park, Just after its exit -notified by a sign- there are several decent places to camp. Starting in Abisko, most of the day is easy hiking along a generally good condition trail, not overly muddy or rocky and often fairly wide in places. At times the summer route crosses with the winter route, just keep following the red trail markers and you’ll keep going the correct way. There are some minor ups and downs, but it is not an overly hilly day and you barely notice the elevation gain of 100 meters. The first day of the trek is the easiest day on the whole hike. It starts no more than 300m from the train station/tourist station and is very easy with only a few small hills. There is a really nice campsite set up after about 6km with outdoor toilets and wind shelter and a river passing by so if you want to have a very easy starts on the hike, then this is the perfect place to take it easy.

Day 2: Abiskojaure – Alesjaure, 20-24*km, 7h A loooong day where your progression can be really slowed down in case of heavy rain. Recommended campsite: (N 68°07.7464 / E 018°24.6416). Pass the cabins, cross the bridge and continue for a kilometre or so. At dawn you can observe running packs of reindeers from there. This is one of the longest days on northern section of the Kungsleden, and unless you are an avid hiker, you might be feeling a few muscles from the previous day. Get an early start and take plenty of breaks as needed. The hiking is mostly along good trail with a fair amount of wooden planks over the boggy areas. There are some rocky parts, and some final bog just before reaching Alesjaure – it can be useful to rock hop along the shore of the lake to avoid some of the worst sections.

Day 3: Alesjaure – over Tjäkta pass, 24*km, 6h30 The most grandiose part of the trek! If the weather is good and you feel in good shape, continue after the Tjäkta cabin to the Tjäkta pass. At the top of the pass, there is a little hut where you can get warm if the conditions are bad. Recommended campsite: (N 68°00.2667 / E 018°14.7653) Just after going down from the Tjäkta pass (3h after the cabins). This is mostly an easy day until the final, short ascent to the hut. The trail is good, with a lot of wooden planks – which often seem unnecessary. There are some muddy and rocky sections, but they only make up a small part of the day. Tjaktja to Salka: Don’t underestimate the short distance of this day. While it is a relatively easy ascent to the Tjäktja pass, the highest point along the entire Kungsleden, the going is slow along the often muddy and rocky trail. If it’s raining, then it will be slippery and boggy much of the way.

Day 4: south of Tjäkta pass – Singi, 25*km, 6h A day from one end of the valley to the other. Recommended campsite: (N 67°50.8863 / E 018°19.8800) just after the Singi cabins, you will find a spot with a river and even a lovely waterfall, fairly protected from the wind and with an awesome view. The hiking is generally good on the way to Singi. Even with some ups and downs, you can keep a faster pace than on the rockier section to the north of Sälka. Overall this is an easy day.

Day 5: Singi – Kebnekaise, 14-19*km, 5h It’s upon this point that you leave Kungsleden and turn East in the direction of Nikkaluokta. You will notice that this part is busier due to the proximity of the tourist station of Kebnekaise. Recommended campsite: by the mountain station. Much of the trail is similar to the route to Singi the previous day, though with a considerable more elevation gain and descent. There are some bouldery sections in the pass as you climb over and around old rockfalls. Beware of the bog as you near Kebnekaise Fjällstation.

Day 6: Kebnekaise – Nikkaluokta, 19-23*km, 6H The last part of the trek, flat and quite boring to be honest… Recommended campsite -if you want to split the distance: (N 67°50.7683 / E 018°53.0046) Just at the boat station. It will cost you 80sek per tent but the spot just by the lake is lovely – you can even try your luck at fishing. The trail here is average and mostly uneventful standard hiking. There are some boggy sections, particularly around lake Ladtjojaure, and a fair amount of wooden planks also line the way. From the east side of the lake the trail begins to widen, similar to the route near Abisko, as you travel through the hilly forest before reaching Nikkaluokta. An optional water taxi can save you 7 km of hiking.

Have More time? • Day 3 and 4 are the most beautiful. If the weather is good, you may want to take 3 days to cover the distance to enjoy even more the mountains and not to get too tired. • Fancy an extra challenge? On this trail, you can add an extra day to submit the highest peak of Sweden: Kebnekaise, at 2100m. The trail leaves from Kebnekaise fjällstation and the return journey will take you between 10-13 tiring hours. • A popular longer version is to continue after Singi to . It’s 70-80km so an additional 4 days. The portion Saltoluokta – is another 70-80 km. For 3 weeks of trekking and more: continue South till the end of Kungsleden: !

My tip: • Plan an extra day. It will come handy in case of bad conditions, if you decide to climb Kebnekaise or just if you want to take your time because you love it so much. This is also what makes it vacation time! • Lodging on Kungsleden • As said before, I believe doing Kungsleden camping is a fantastic experience -it’s also free if you stop only in the wild! • For a bit more comfort, you can rely on the mountains cabins. Usually separated from 15- 20km, they offer facilities for campers (toilets, a kitchen room, and sometimes a sauna) for 100SEK per person. Don’t want to carry a tent? It will cost you 350-400SEK per night and they never decline a hiker. If it’s full you will end up sleeping on a mattress in the corridor or the shop, but you will have a roof above your head!

My tip: After a few days under the tent in the wild, you will appreciated the comfort of the Kebnekaise mountain station and a great meal at their restaurant on day 5. The rooms are a bit pricey (from 800sek per person for a private) but for only 100SEK you can enjoy the facilities of the hotel: showers, kitchen, dry room – perfect for soaked wet boots!- and even a great sauna with view over the mountains!

INSIDER ADVICE: There are no restrictions on camping along the route: Bring a stove and bivvy bag to sleep out under the midnight sun.

WHEN TO GO: Mid-June to mid-September

LOGISTICS: The 65-mile (105-kilometer) sampler section starts at Abisko, the northern terminus of Kungsleden, and finishes at the Sami (ethnic Laplander) settlement of Nikkaluokta. Base your trek out of Kiruna, an old ore-mining town with excellent air connections to (U.S. $347; www.scandinavian.net). In Kiruna, collect information about the trail from the Swedish Tourist Association (www.svenskaturistforeningen.se); they can also organize your bus transportation to either end of the route (U.S. $26). While it is possible to hike in either direction, it's best to travel from north to south—that keeps the sun warming your face, no small consideration in the Arctic.

Kiruna is the closest airport to Abisko and has flights available via Stockholm. From Kiruna, it is just a short train or bus ride to Abisko (approx 1.5hrs)

Bus website: http://www.resrobot.se/# http://www.resrobot.se/

Accommodation Saunas are available at Abisko, Alesjaure and Sälka.

The mountain cabins have mixed-sex rooms with 4-10 beds. The beds are fitted with mattresses, pillows and blankets. You should bring a light sleeping bag and camping kit with knive, fork, spoon etc with you. Occasionally if the beds are all taken then you will get a space on the floor with a mattress but this is not very common and is only really a problem at the Tjaktja cabin during peak season.

The cabins are basic and have no electricity or running water. Everybody helps with domestic duties including cleaning, cooking and taking the rubbish out. Cooking is done on gas-stoves. All the huts are manned by hut custodians.

Can book online in advance:

= £206 for 5 nights = £41 per night

Advance purchase of a mattress in STF's mountain huts does not mean a booking of a bed or room. Sleep means a regular bed or a floor bed which is access to a mattress, pillow and duvet. - http://boka.stfturist.se/sv/se-gora/a1137116/köp-boende-i- fjällstuga/detaljer?filter=t=fjällstuga&_ga=1.186628649.1294312730.1468440505

USING THE HUTS The Swedish huts depend on everyone to look after them. You need to collect fresh water and take out the old water. Dishes should be washed, dried, and put away, with counters wiped and stoves cleaned. Firewood needs to be cut and brought in from the woodshed. Beds need to be made and floors swept. All trash is sorted in various bins according to type, with anything burnable being burned on site and the rest hauled away during winter.

Payment While many of the huts can accept credit card payments, not all can. Therefore it is useful to carry enough cash to cover your accommodation, or you can also purchase credit vouchers at the Abisko Turiststation or the Fjällstations at the start of the trail.

Shops Most of the huts on the northern section of the Kungsleden have small boutique shops offering basic food and supplies (at prices you can expect to find in the mountains). In theory, if you are looking to travel light, you can purchase all your food upon arrival at each hut, to keep from carrying anything unnecessary.

Sleeping Beds are basic bunks in rooms of varying size from 4-10 beds on average, a pillow and blanket is provided. If you are not camping, you can carry a light sleep sheet, otherwise, you can use your sleeping bag. No booking is possible, though on the chance the hut is full, you’ll still get a mattress somewhere on the floor. Some bedrooms will have wood burning stoves for warmth, if not otherwise part of a shared common area.

Kitchen All hut kitchens have gas stoves and a supply of pots, pans, and utensils for cooking, along with the necessary equipment for washing up. Water is typically collected in buckets from a nearby river/lake and used water is emptied into waste buckets, which are then emptied into special drainage containers outside, referred to as ‘slask.’

Common area Generally combined with the kitchen, the common – dining area will have a series of benches or chairs for sitting. A wood burning stove is available for heating and candles are provided for light once it gets dark. Wood is collected from outside (vedbod), and if used, you must cut new wood for the next guests.

Toilets All huts have simple drop toilets and supplies of toilet paper, hand cleaning gel and soap. A washing basin is located outside the toilet. Water must be refilled if near empty.

Water Water is typically collected from a nearby river or lake. Follow the signs to ‘Vatten.’ In recent years, some of the huts have begun developing water delivery systems to centralized containers, saving some previously steep hikes.

Washing Never wash upstream from the water collection area. Typically there will be a sign labeled ’Tvatt,’ where it is possible to wash and clean.

Sauna A relaxing sit in a sauna, perhaps combined with a brisk dip into a nearby river or lake is often a rewarding finish to a day of hiking. The saunas will have women, men, and mixed times, usually starting around 17:00-18:00 in the evening. Even if you’re not planning on sitting in the sauna, there is a plentiful supply of hot water, which you can use to wash yourself after a long day hiking.

Camping It is possible to camp in the nearby vicinity of the huts and pay a reduced fee. This allows you use of one of the buildings typically designated for campers with common area and kitchen. You also have access to the sauna, should there be one. This is a popular option many people use to help save a bit of money, while still maintaining most of the convenience of the huts.

HUT LINGO There’s a few common words you’ll see used around the huts. As the days pass, you’ll get used to them, but it can be a bit confusing at first. So to help you out, here’s a few of the key words and signs you’ll see around. Vatten – Drinking water These signs will point you to the place to collect drinking water from – usually a nearby river or lake, though some huts are beginning to develop easier onsite water systems. Tvatt – Washing Downstream from the drinking water, this is where you can do any necessary washing. Slask – Waste water This is usually a large wooden container to discard used water from the kitchen. Vedbod – Woodshed If the firewood isn’t kept outside, you’ll need to head to the vedbod for the sawing and splitting. Hundrum – Dog room/cabin Often a separate, small, self-contained cabin. Bastu – Sauna If you don’t feel like sitting in the sauna, you can also use the hot water for washing. Stugvärd – Warden’s hut This is where the warden can be found, typically with a small office. Butik – Shop Often located at the warden’s office, each shop varies in amount and variety of supplies, and selection gets thin as the season nears the end. Säkerhetsrum – Emergency room This is an emergency room left open after the hut closes for the season. Hjälptelefon – Emergency phone Typically located in the entrance of the emergency room, this is a phone to contact local police in an emergency

What to take: the best map to have of the entire area is Lantmäteriet Kartförlaget’s Norra Norrland (scale 1:400,000).

Read more: http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/europe/sweden/swedish- lapland/kungsleden/kungsleden-trail/#ixzz4EKO50frF

I recommend the following mindset when planning what to bring: 0 – 5 degrees C, rain and very windy. You will hopefully have sunshine and warm weather, but if you aim to be comfortable in these conditions you will not go wrong. What does this mean? Well, in terms of clothing, it is important to bring waterproof jacket and pants. Good trekking boots that can take wet weather (for example Gore Tex lined medium height boots) are also essential. I would personally stay away from lighter trail running (or similar) shoes. Also make sure you can dress in layers and adjust them easily. One warm jacket (fleece or light down) is also necessary for breaks and in the evenings, especially if you stay in a tent. Otherwise, wear what you typically wear on a multi day trek.

• If you stay in the cabins, you do not need to bring a sleeping bag. Honestly, you don’t. All you need is a travel sheet or sleeping bag liner. All guests will get a mattress, pillow and blanket and there are stoves in the cabins to heat them up. • If you camp out, I recommend bringing a good tent that can take a lot of wind and a sleeping bag that keeps you comfortable down to a few degrees below zero. • You don’t need to bring a stove if you stay in the cabins – all cabins have kitchens with gas stoves. Choosing the right size backpack is very individual, but I can definitely fit everything I need for a six or seven day cabin-to-cabin hike into a 55 liter backpack. Maybe even 45 liters would be ok considering no tent and no sleeping bag, but I haven’t tried it. • Bring a couple of plastic shopping bags to collect your own garbage along the trail (and do please collect it!). All cabins have outhouses equipped with toilet paper and hand sanitizer. • Mosquito head net • DEET

Food: In Abisko, Alesjaure and Sälka you will find small shops where you can buy dried and canned food, drinks and snacks etc. There is no fresh food for sale. Budget approx 150SEK per person per day for food plus a beer in the sauna!

Breakfast: 4 x porridge with protein powder

Lunch: Primula / dairylea and crackers. Graze boxes. Nak’d bars, chocolate, nuts

Dinner: past in a packet, freeze dried korma, freeze dried pudding

Links: http://www.trekkingdivingliving.com/trekking/kungsleden-the-kings-trail-sweden-useful-information/ http://sleepinginthecar.blogspot.co.uk/2009/06/hiking-kungsleden.html