• Austria's Mountain Roads • Readers' Forum • LTU Special Winter Fares GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe THIS ISSUE: • Cologne-Dresden Reports

The Grand Tour, Part 2...

DEAR SUBSCRIBER AUSTRIA BY AUTO October 28, 1995 Many of Europe's remotest and most beautiful mountain roads are in Austria. This Why Not Now? second segment of our "Grand Tour" traverses several of them. Here we stand, eyeball to eye- n August we in Zürich and finished in ary, we were forced to ball with winter. In Europe, only the launched the Frankfurt. We also settled make difficult choices hardiest boulevardier still sips his "Grand Tour" on 14 days as the most about what to include and coffee outdoors. Most of the leaves I series; suggested what to bypass. Except for have fallen and table umbrellas are common time frame for a being put away all over the Conti- 14-day automobile journeys European vacation. Vienna, Salzburg and nent. to many of our favorite Graz, one could design cities, towns, village, sights, This month's drive is several tours of equal or Still, it’s a great time to go. hotels and backroads. almost entirely through even greater interest than Opera companies and symphony Austria. It begins 50 miles the one that follows. Stops In order to orchestras are up and running full By south of the Munich Air- on this itinerary were throttle. The great museums, al- cover as much Bob port in Bad Aibling, Ger- selected in part to give the ways an indoor activity, are a lot new ground as Bestor many, and ends with four trip continuity and pro- less crowded at this time of year. possible, we days in Vienna. In be- vide for "quality" driving And the Christmas season, cel- chose an "open jaw" format; tween, are short visits to time. Thus, some wonder- ebrated in Europe as nowhere else, each journey begins in one Graz and Salzburg and ful parts of Austria were is about to launch. Most Christmas major gateway city and some of Europe's most left out. In addition, markets will be open by the end of ends in another. Our first November and hot drinks like thrilling and beautiful numerous towns along our tour, though it was mostly Glühwein and Weihnachtspunsch mountain driving. route, or just a short through Germany, started will soon be for sale in restaurants In planning this itiner- detour off it, — places like and on street corners. Kitzbühel, Bad Ausee, Bad And the best part is...a trip to Ischl, St. Gilgen and St. Europe doesn’t cost as much in TRAVELER'S DIGEST Wolfgang come to mind — winter. are destinations as inter- Among the normally slim pickings culled by our clipping esting as some of the stops Roundtrip airfares are available service this month are two informative New York Times articles. we chose. But, we will see from the low $500s from the East more of Austria in subse- Coast and the high $600s and low Munich’s Schwabing District $700s from the West. quent "Grand Tour" seg- The New York Times travel section seems to operate on ments. Car rental companies are also the novel premise that travel writing should be more running promotions. Through DER informative and less dramatic. Seldom does the Times Like the first "Grand Tours (phone 800-521-6722), Hertz reader have to suffer the “I inhaled the crisp, clean Alpine Tour," this itinerary is a and Sixt-Budget are offering two air” style so pervasive in travel magazines and Sunday guideline. We assume you free days with any one-week rental. travel sections. Recently, there have been several good will adjust it to suit your At that rate, an Opel Astra, perfect articles on Germany. own style of travel. for a couple, is just a little over $15 per day for nine days, including One is a September 24, 1995, piece by J.S. Marcus DAY ONE Bad Aibling, German Value Added Tax. entitled The Bohemian Side of Munich on the city's Schwab- Germany ing district. A few excerpts: Many hotels have established Suggested Map(s): Die winter discount rates. The Sofitel “Schwabing, the district north of the city’s old medi- Generalkarte Germany #23, group (800-763-4835), for example, eval center and a traditional stomping ground of students, Die Generalkarte Germany is offering rates of $118 to $138 per artists and assorted hangers-on, has often been thought of #26 room, per night at more than 50 as Munich’s other half, artistic rather than bourgeois, Activities: Arrive European hotels. Resort hotels, cosmopolitan rather than Bavarian...These days, Schwab- Munich. Pick up your hard up for customers between the ing has been rigorously gentrified, populated, as some rental car and head south summer season and the midwinter would have it, by fashion editors and swinging for Bad Aibling (about 80 Continued on page 2… Continued on page 7… Continued on page 3…

October, 1995 (Terrassenufer 12, D-01069, tel. 02508/440 9500, We spent most of the day going through the DEAR SUBSCRIBER fax 02508/440 9600). Our double room for three two large museums near the Cathedral. One of Continued from page 1 nights, including one dinner, was $394. Recently these is loaded with items uncovered during the constructed, it is close to the Elbe river and about ski rush, are ready to deal. Smaller hotels, too, cut excavations, including a large mosaic floor. So a 10-minute walk to the town center. their prices, especially those in the countryside. many artifacts have been recovered that many of them are stacked on racks in other buildings close Or, you can really save money by renting an apart- While in Dresden we took a day-trip by train to to the museum. ment or condominium for as little as $250 per week Meissen to see the porcelain. The train ride was (see Gemütlichkeit, August 1985). interesting but the porcelain showroom at the We stayed at the Altstadt Hotel (Salzgasse 7, This time of year in Europe, I have the feeling factory was overly crowded and difficult. We D-50667, tel. 0221/257-7851, fax 0221/257 7853) I’m seeing the countries as they really are, not as would not go back to Meissen. which we chose primarily for its price and perfect location; a short walk to the Cathedral area, the in summer when everyone is whipped into shape Dresden’s historic center is fascinating with Hauptbahnhof (for the International Herald Tri- and braced for the tourist invasion. In November, considerable evidence of reconstruction and bune) and the Altes and Neues Rathausen. It is also that little restaurant on a side street in Zürich can’t cleanup since reunification. The Dom, the Schloss, very close to the restaurants, bars and all the other be a tourist trap because there are no tourists; the the Swinger Galleries and the Opera House are activity along the river-front area. patrons are all locals. A European trip now is like restored and ready for visitors. The jewel collec- visiting Disneyland with the park's employees as tion at the Albertinum is fantastic. Reconstruction Our double room at the Altstadt was on the its only customers. of the Frauenkirche, which was completely de- fifth floor facing a small square in the back. It was But is it as much fun when the trees are bare stroyed in that one last gigantic bombing raid quiet and the price was $100 per night. This is and the streets windy and cold? Speaking for before the end of the war, is just starting. The modest compared to the other hotels in the down- myself, ducking into a cozy Gasthof on a chilly day pieces of the bombed church have been carefully town area. numbered, labeled and stored on numerous metal for a bowl of soup and glass of beer is just as One problem was the hotel's rooms are lo- appealing as a summer lunch at a sidewalk table. racks in the nearby area. Completion of the resto- ration of the Frauenkirche is scheduled for some cated in two adjoining buildings and our fifth floor I’m not putting down summer travel. Each four to six years after the turn of the century. room was in a building with NO LIFT! Access to time of the year has its own charm; but all we have our room was by climbing a very narrow circular now is winter. And lower prices. In the town center are two large, expensive staircase. Oxygen stations are not provided. We hotels, the Dresden Hilton and the Grand Hotel would return to Altstadt but only with a guaranteed Another Uncle John Report Taschenbergpalais. The Hilton complex includes reservation in the building with the lift. This month we turn the rest of “Dear Sub- several restaurants and sidewalk cafes. A more There are a large number of restaurants along scriber” over to John Bestor, for the past nine years traditional German restaurant, the Paulaner, is the river but our top choice was La Colombe, a member of the Gemütlichkeit advisory board, adjacent to the Steigenberger. We enjoyed two located in a quiet area near Gross St Martin Church. and a man who can find his way around Germany, meals there. The meals were excellently prepared, and we were Austria and Northern Italy as well as anyone we Cologne was wonderful. Of course, the Cathe- served by the owner, Rosemarie Hahn. One evening know. Heed his words. dral is awesome, and there are many other places we had lamb and rabbit and it was such a pleasant In prior years we traveled in Germany, Austria of special interest. experience, we went back a second night for Hirsch and Northern Italy almost entirely by car. I think medallions and quail. During the first three centuries after the birth auto travel in Europe creates the tendency to of Christ, Cologne was a Roman city and during bypass the center of some of the larger cities. This Large Rhine cruise boats docked within two part of that period, it was the capital of the Roman year we used rail the first two weeks of the trip and hundred yards of our hotel, and we took a day government for that part of Europe. The old city, took the opportunity to spend three nights in cruise up the river to Bonn. This was a break in a semicircle facing the Rhine, is literally built on Dresden and several in Cologne. tramping through all the Roman ruins we could Roman ruins, some of which can be visited below find. The boat left at 9:30 a.m. There were very few In Dresden, we were primarily interested in street level. My wife, “H,” calls it an “archaeologi- passengers either going to Bonn or on the early seeing the buildings and sights in the historic cal smorgasbord.” The existence of these ruins evening return trip. It was a weekday, and the center and our hotel choice was the Terrassenufer continues to delay construction of new buildings, subways and underground garages. Continued on page 8…

Vol. 9, No. 10 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY October, 1995 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Category Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Unacceptable 0 - 3 People/Service 30% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Adequate 4 - 7 Location/Setting 15% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Above Average 12 - 15 Public rooms 5% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Excellent 16 - 20 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Subscription Dept: Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Special Designations Restaurant Criteria Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- G By virtue of location, decor, Food 65% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- special charm, warmth of Service 20% 6722 or 510/538-0628. FAX: 510/582-8296, E-MAIL [email protected]. Sub- management, or combina- Atmosphere 15% scriptions are $67 per year for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide tion thereof, an especially correct information in this publication, the publishers can make no guarantees pleasant establishment. regarding accuracy. Second-class postage paid in Hayward, CA. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: $ Offers significant value. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 October, 1995 AS ($35) in high season and the fee Activities: The day starts with AUSTRIA BY CAR for the Felbertauren Tunnel is 190 AS another spectacular mountain drive Continued from page 1 ($19) in high season. There may be and ends in Salzburg, one of Europe’s km/50 miles) and the Romantik other tolls as well. most beautiful cities. However, because the town is visited daily in Hotel Lindner. The Lindner’s best Directions: To save time, take the rooms are in a quiet annex at the rear summer by hundreds of tour buses, it Munich-Salzburg Autobahn east to is best seen in the off-season. Our of the property. The hotel's decor Autobahndreieck Inntal and from features a classic Baroque facade, recommended hotel downtown is the there south on Autobahn 93 in the friendly little Trumer Stube. Outside windows with striped shutters, dark direction Kufstein and Innsbruck. wood wainscoting and vaulted ceil- the city, in Oberalm near Hallein, Past Kramsach, take the Achensee some of the warmest hospitality ings. A walk around town, a good Zillertal exit (map coord. C-4) and go meal and night’s sleep will begin the you’ll ever experience is at Schloss south on Red Road 169. At Zell am Haunsperg. jet lag healing process. Ziller, head east on Red Road 165 Directions: Go south from the through Gerlos and over the pass. In Directions: From Zell Am See, go Airport on the Red Road that circles Gerlos you might purchase the mak- north to Saalfelden then east on Red the eastern edge of the town of Erd- ings of a picnic lunch to be eaten at Road 164 to the picturesque village of ing. At Hohenlinden turn right to the magnificent Krimml Falls (map Maria Alm. The road on to Dienten, Ebersberg and another Grafing. The pretty town, road is scenic CZECH REPUBLIC is particularly between Ho- scenic, with henthann and an abun- ERMANY Beyharting. G dance of Bad Aibling is Vienna flower- just 5 km north bedecked of the Munich- houses. Munich Salzburg Auto- THE GRAND TOUR, Part 2 From there Salzburg Rust continue to bahn (map Bad coordinates Aibling Mühlbach 53.1-2.8). and then to AUSTRIA Bischof- AY WO D T Zell Sebersdorf shofen. Then Am See go north on Zell Am See Suggested the Red Road along the Map(s): Die Murau Graz Generalkarte Salzach river Austria #7 & #6 HUNGARY into Salzburg. If you plan to Activities: stay at Schloss This morning Haunsperg begins two days ITALY SLOVENIA take the of great moun- Hallein exit. tain driving. Oberalm is on You will negotiate the Gerlos Pass to coord. D-7). the east side of the river. the Upper Pinzgau, see the Krimml Waterfalls and, finally, drive one of At Mittersill go south on Red DAY FOUR Salzburg Europe’s most spectacular mountain Road 108 through the Felbertauren, through Lienz and from there back Activities: Salzburg’s top sights roads, the Grossglockner. The over- are well covered in the Michelin Green night is in Zell Am See at the Hotel north on Red Road 107 over the Grossglockner (map coord. B-6). (The Guide for Austria. Two of our favorites Berner; try dinner at Gasthof Steiner- are the cemetery at St. Peter’s Church wirt (Dreifaltigkeitgasse, tel. 06542/ road is usually closed from early November to the beginning of May.) at the foot of the Mönchberg — while 2502). An option would be to stay you’re there have a beverage or lunch near the Grossglockner summit in the At the top, take a side trip to the Franz Josefs-Höhe and see the Pas- in the Stiftskeller, said to be the Alpenhotel Kaiser-Franz-Josefs- oldest restaurant in Austria — and Haus; nothing special as a hotel but it terze Glacier. After the descent, continue on to Zell Am See. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich’s mauso- is an interesting experience to over- leum in St. Sebastian Cemetery, night at about 8,000 feet. Even July DAY THREE Salzburg which contains his ostentatious can seem like winter. Suggested Map(s): Die Generalkarte instructions for his own funeral. The You’ll need some cash for this Austria #7 & #4 Mozart family tomb is also here, drive. The Grossglockner toll is 350 though “Wolfie” was buried in Vien- Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 October, 1995 (Marktplatz 104, tel. 06134/263) or the and is closed in winter. At Red Road AUSTRIA BY CAR Bräu Gasthof (Seestrasse 120, tel. 36 turn left and continue to Murau. Continued from page 3 06134/221) — head south via the DAYS SIX & SEVEN Graz na. A good excursion is to Hellbrunn Yellow Road around the south end of Castle, combined with lunch or dinner the lake and on east to Bad Aussee. Suggested Map(s): Die Generalkarte at Maria-Theresien-Schlößl (Morzger From there turn right and south on Austria #5 Strasse 87, tel. 0662/820 191). Red Road 145 through Bad Mitten- Activities: After a DAY FIVE Murau fairly short drive to SUGGESTED GRAND TOUR HOTELS Graz you will have Suggested almost two full days Map(s): Die Gener- Alpenhotel Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Haus, A-9844 Grossglockner, phone to explore this terrific 04824/2512, Moderate to Expensive, RATING: 9/20. alkarte Austria #5 city. We like it be- Der Murauer Gasthof Hotel Lercher, A-8850, Schwarzenbergstr. 10, Activities: An- Murau, Austria, phone 3532/2431, fax 3532/3694, singles 550 to 950 AS ($175 cause it’s authentic other day of pleasant to $243), doubles 1000 to 1800 AS ($175 to $243). Rating: 12/20 and, though not a and very scenic Seehotel Rust, A-7071, Am Seekanal 2-4, Rust, Austria, phone 2685/381, metropolis, is still motoring through fax 2685/381-419, singles 980 to 1150 AS ($98 to $115), doubles 1560 to 1900 large enough to offer the Austrian coun- AS ($156 to $1900). RATING: 13/20 plenty of central tryside, with a stop Schloss Haunsperg, A-5411, Oberalm bei Hallein (Salzburg), Austria, European urbanity. phone 6245/80662, fax 6245/80680, singles 900 to 1350 AS ($900 to $1350), at the unique lake- doubles 1800 to 2700 AS ($180 to $270). RATING: 18/20 G See the side village of Hall- Trumer Stube, A-5020, Bergstrasse 6, Salzburg, Austria, phone 662/874767, Landeszeughaus statt, ending in the fax 662/874326, singles 550 to 900 AS ($55 to $90), doubles 900 to 1450 AS ($90 (arsenal), the Cathe- small town of Mu- to $145). RATING: 15/20 G dral, the facade of the rau. Overnight at Schloss Obermayerhofen, A-8272, Sebersdorf, Austria, phone 3333/2503, Hof Backerei at fax 3333/2503, singles 1500 AS ($150), doubles 1950 to 3000 AS ($195 to $300). Der Murauer Hofgasse 6 and the Gasthof Hotel RATING: 16/20 Pension Aviano, A-1010, Marco d’ Avianogasse 1, Vienna, Austria, phone Mausoleum of Ferdi- Lercher, whose nand II. If there is restaurant specializ- 1/512 83 30, fax 1/5312 81 65-65, singles 620 to 740 AS ($62 to $74), doubles 980 to 1500 AS ($98 to $150). RATING: 16.5/20 G time, take half a day es in game dishes. In Pension Pertschy, A-1010, Habsburgergasse 5, Vienna, Austria, phone 1/ to drive south to Hallstatt, don’t miss 534 49-0, fax 1/534 49-49, singles 580 to 740 AS ($58 to $74), doubles 980 to explore one of Eu- the Chapel of St. 1240 AS ($98 to $124). RATING: 11/20 rope’s little-known Michael with its Pension Nossek, A-1010, Graben 17, Vienna, Austria, phone 1/533 70 41, wine roads; the Süd- fax 1/535 36 46, singles 550 to 700 AS ($55 to $70), doubles 900 to 950 AS ($90 collection of skulls of steirische-Wein- former town resi- to $95). RATING: 10/20 Pension Altstadt, A-1070, Kirchengasse 41, Vienna, Austria, phone 1/526 strasse (map coord. E- dents. Later, you 10) along the Slove- will traverse the 33 99-0, fax 1/523 49 01, singles 850 to 1450 AS ($85 to $145), doubles 1150 to 1750 AS ($115 to $175). RATING: 17/20 G nian border. Our scenic Erzherzog Romantik Hotel Römischer Kaiser, A-1015, Annagasse 16, Vienna, Austria, recommended hotel is Johann Strasse in phone 1/512 77 51-0, fax 1/512 77 51/13, singles 1500 to 2100 AS ($150 to Erzherzog Johann; the green, sparsely $210), doubles 1900 to 2900 AS ($190 to $290). RATING: 16/20 G dine at Kepler-Keller populated province Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth, A-1010, Weihburggasse 3, Vienna, Austria, (Stempfergasse 6, tel. of Styria. phone 1/15 526-0, fax 1/15 52 67, singles 950 to 1450 AS ($95 to $145), doubles 0316/72 4 39). 1900 to 2600 AS ($190 to $260). RATING: 16/20 G Directions: Go Hotel Sacher, A-1010, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, Vienna, Austria, phone 1/ Directions: The east from Salzburg 514 56, fax 1/5145 7810, singles 1900 to 2450 AS ($190 to $245), doubles 3700 goal today is to get to to 5400 AS ($370 to $5400). RATING: 18/20 G on Red Road #158 Graz. Proceed east on toward St. Gilgen. König von Ungarn, A-1010, Schulerstrasse 10, Vienna, Austria, phone 1/ Red Road 96 toward From there turn left 515 840, fax 1/515-848, singles 1500 to 1950 AS ($150 to $195), doubles 2100 AS ($210). RATING: 15/20 Judenburg. At the and north on Red junction, take Red Road #154 to the Hotel Berner, A-5700, Zell Am See, Austria, phone 6542/2557, fax 6542/ 25577, singles 700 to 1500 AS ($70 to $150), doubles 1100 to 2600 AS ($110 to Road S36 northeast south shore of the $260). RATING: 15/20 G toward Knittelfeld. Mondsee. Take the Romantik Hotel Lindner, D-83043, Marienplatz 5, Bad Aibling, phone Then follow the Auto- Yellow Road east 8061/90630, fax 8061/30535, singles from 100 DM ($70), doubles to 230 DM bahn (A9) southeast and then, just before ($162). RATING: 16/20 G into Graz. the Attersee, go right on Red Road 152 and DAY EIGHT Sebersdorf at Schoberstein head southeast on dorf. At the intersection of Red Road Red Road 153. At Red Road 145 turn 308 (map coord. C-9), turn right and Suggested Map(s): Die Generalkarte right and pass through Bad Ischl and west toward Grobning, where you Austria #5 then south toward Hallstatt, along the then turn south on a Yellow Road; the Activities: This is a day to relax west shore of the Hallstattersee. After approximately 35 km (22 mile) long and enjoy one of Austria’s most a walk around the town — and per- Erzherzog Johann Strasse. It is nar- charming castle hotels, Schloss Ober- haps lunch at the Hotel Grüner Baum row, lacks guard rails or shoulders mayerhofen in Sebersdorf about half

Gemütlichkeit 4 October, 1995 an hour north of Graz. Check in Activities: Use the late morning to Zentralfriedhof (main cemetery) early, enjoy your room, take a long visit the spa town of Baden, perhaps with its graves of Beethoven, Schu- walk, an afternoon nap and have for lunch. One of many addresses in bert, Brahms and the Strauss family; dinner in the Hofstüberl, once part of and around Vienna once occupied by the Belvedere Palaces, the grounds at the castle’s stables. Beethoven is at 10 Rathausgasse, Schönbrunn, Hundertwasser Haus, Directions: From Graz go north now a small museum. a fancifully designed apartment house; the Saturday morning Flohm- via the main Vienna-Graz Autobahn Just north of Baden, the village of arkt (flea market), any performance (A2) and exit Sebersdorf-Waltersdorf. Gumpoldskirchen produces one of at the Volksoper, and Kunst- Note the words ‘Schloss Obermayer- the few Austrian wines sold in the HausWien, a new museum designed hofen’ on the map to left of the exit. U.S., Gumpoldskirchner, a white by Hundertwasser. wine. DAY NINE Rust Directions: Go north from Rust West of Baden is Mayerling, site Suggested Map(s): Die Generalkarte on the Yellow Road through Oggau. of the 1888 double-suicide of 30-year- Austria #5 & #2 At Red Road 50 turn left toward old Archduke Rudolf — son of Eisenstadt. From there take the Activities: Day nine features a Emperor Franz-Josef and Empress Yellow Road north through Stotzing, drive through vineyards and a short Elizabeth — and his 17-year-old Loretto and to Unterwaltersdorf; then visit to the province of Burgenland, a mistress, Maria Vetsera. very different and undiscovered part the Red Road 210 west through of Austria on the Hungarian border. Gemütlichkeit recommends several Ebreichsdorf to Baden. From there, Stroll the towns of Mörbisch and Rust, hotels from which to choose your one can continue north to Gumpold- noting the rooftop storks’ nests, and Vienna headquarters. In the luxury skirchen and on to Vienna, or head don’t fail to stop for a snack and a category, the Sacher has great old- west to Mayerling and the Vienna made-on-the-premises glass of fresh world style. Favorite small, charm- Woods. white wine at a Heuriger (wine tavern). ing hotels inside the Ring include the Römischer-Kaiser, the Kaiserin DAY FOURTEEN Fly Home from Stay at Seehotel Rust directly on Elisabeth and the König von Un- Vienna Airport the Neusiedler See, a seven-foot deep, garn. We think the best combination 124-square-mile body of water that of comfort and value is found at the sometimes mysteriously disappears. Pension Aviano. Plainer accommo- The last time was for four years in READERS' dations, also good value, are the 1968. Pension Nossek and the Pension Directions: Proceed north on the Pertschy. Just outside the Ring is an FORUM Autobahn and exit at Pinkafeld. Take establishment we liked well enough the Yellow Road east through Pinkaf- to make the “Gemütlichkeit Hotel of Not Everyone Loves "The Old eld to Red Road 50, then turn left and the Year” in 1994, the Pension Alts- Philosopher" north passing through Bernstein and tadt. Sir: Günseck. Just past Langeck, take Red Cancel my subscription to Road 55 north through Pilgersdorf. Vienna has many good restau- rants in all price categories. We Gemütlichkeit immediately and please At Kirchschlag take the Yellow Road refund any unearned subscription fee. east for about one or two kilometers recommend: Restaurant Korso and then turn north toward Stang. (Mahlerstr. 2, tel. 01/51-516-546, very Your extended condescending There is quite a network of roads in expensive), Zum Kuckuck (Him- comments in your August 30, 1995 this area but use the map to continue melpfortgasse 15, tel. 01/512 8470, edition (The Old Philosopher) con- to work your way north through expensive), Restaurant Boheme cerning your “unique” newsletter was Wiesmath to Hochswalkersdorf. (Spittleberggasse 19, tel. 01/933 173, difficult enough to stomach, but your From there follow the green-lined moderate) Zur Hohen Brücke response to Dennis A. Bell’s letter Yellow Road toward Mattersburg. Gästatte (Wipplingerstrasse 23, concerning the lack of information Almost immediately after crossing inexpensive) and Gösser Bierklinik about air-conditioned hotels in Eu- Red Road S31 take a right on the (Steindlgasse 4, tel. 01/535 6897, rope was beyond the pale. inexpensive). Yellow Road toward Marz. Follow “Hot muggy days are not nearly the Rotwein Strasse (Red Wine Road) Guidebooks, particularly the as common in Europe as in the U.S.” through Rohrbach, along the Hungar- Michelin Green for Austria and the Oh, really? What Europe do you ian border through Schattendorf, then Eyewitness Guide Vienna, provide travel in? As one who lived in Ger- up to Draßburg, Siegendorf and to St. ample information about the city’s many for 11 years I can assure you Margarethen where you turn right on many sights. Among our favorites: that German weather routinely ap- Red Road 52 and into Rust. the Hofburg’s Schatzkammer (Impe- proximates the same weather condi- rial Treasury); Kunsthistorisches DAYS TEN, ELEVEN, TWELVE & THIRTEEN tions as the Midwest in the U.S. Museum (Museum of Fine Arts); the Vienna Kaisergruft (tomb of the Hapsburgs); But, that is not the point of this Suggested Map(s): Die Generalkarte the Prater (an amusement park); the letter. The point is that some of your Austria #2 Continued on page 6… Gemütlichkeit 5 October, 1995 Trip Report: Austria or B & B in an interesting locale for READERS' FORUM A few random thoughts on some hiking, biking and “soaking up atmo- Continued from page 5 experiences my wife and I had on a sphere.” We prefer a small town with subscribers have medical problems June, 1995, trip to Austria: good train transportation as we plan which require the use of air-condi- • We shared a Kilometerbank to take some day trips and do not tioned rooms if at all possible. The Pass (3000 km for 3,450 AS, $357) for wish to drive. We have been told that same holds true for nonsmoking travel on the trains. The mileage for the Harz Mountains or Bavaria are rooms. I speak from personal experi- each segment is subtracted by the areas to consider but we are open to ence. conductor en route. It was an eco- any and all suggestions. We plan to nomical and convenient way to stay in any selected area(s) for 5 to 10 If you are going to fill your news- days. We will be going by train to letter with PR flack for those “unique travel. The trains were comparable to the trains we used in Switzerland last Frankfurt or Munich for the flight hotels,” you might at least exert home. Any recommendations? yourself and ask about the availability year, although not as frequent on of air-conditioned and nonsmoking every line. Also, what would be some good rooms and provide that information in • The prices for rooms, meals, airlines for flying into Vienna and out your newsletter. Your front page etc. were surprisingly reasonable, of either Frankfurt or Munich? Our letter from Mr. Halbach in the current even with the weak dollar. In gener- entire stay will be about 17 or 18 days. issue of Gemutlichkeit regarding Mr. al, we spent no more than we would Janet Keith, Washington, DC Bell and his air-conditioning was the have in the U.S. Some examples: (Dear Ms. Keith: Given your head- final straw. 0.5L beer for 35 AS, entrees for 150- quarters requirements we recommend 250 AS, rooms 700-800 AS for double Get a life, indeed! We’d love to Garmisch–Partenkirchen in Bavaria, room with extensive breakfast buffet and that is why we handicapped are about an hour by train southwest of and very drinkable wines starting at still trying to travel. Munich; Freiburg im Breisgau, at the 25 AS per liter. southern end of the Black Forest; and Please enlighten Mr. Halbach and • No one should miss Vienna. perhaps Würzburg, near Frankfurt. By B the rest of your subscribers about we & B we assume you mean a small Pen- “Ugly Americans” need for accurate • We like some of the smaller, sion or Zimmerfrei in a private home. information concerning air-condition- less well-known places (Feldkirch, For a list of such accommodations write ing and smoke-free rooms. Klagenfurt) better than the more famous and much more expensive Verkehrsamt, Dr. Richard-Strauss-Platz, I hope your beer is better than and crowded Innsbruck and Garmisch-Partenkirchen, D-82467, fax your newsletter. Salzburg. 8821/50657; Freiburg Information, Rotteckring 14, Freiburg im Breisgau, D- Robert Claytor, San Francisco CA • In late June — with the excep- 79098, fax 761/37003; or Verkehrsamt tion of Vienna, where we had a (Ed. Note: In our comment on Mr. im Würzburg-Palais, am Congress reservation just in case — we found Bell's letter in the August issue we meant Centrum, Würzburg, D-97070, fax 931/ very satisfactory hotels without no slight to readers with physical handi- 37652. caps. Mr. Bell's letter did not indicate advance reservations in each place that his preference for air-conditioning we stayed. Two of our favorites were Several airlines can meet your flight was related to a medical condition. Hotel Angelika in Neustift im Stu- itinerary requirements. Contact a knowl- baital (700 AS Dbl) and Hotel Maria edgeable travel agent or an airline consol- We do, in fact, inquire at each hotel Theresia in Mayrhofen (750 AS Dbl). idator such as DER Tours. Remember, about the availability of no-smoking rooms Frau Koch at the Maria Theresia as a Gemütlichkeit subscriber, both you and, if the answer is yes, mention it in our generously volunteered to drive us to and your friend qualify for reduced fares report. However, European hoteliers have the train station the morning of our on Swissair. Begin shopping for air told us they find it almost impossible to departure. tickets early next spring. keep smokers out of no-smoking rooms. In • We used our limited German the future, we will also indicate the Austrian Hotel even less in Austria than we did in presence of in-room air-conditioning. I read with interest your article on Switzerland. Oberstdorf and the Allgau region of For the record, according to the • The scenery in superb. Bayern in the November 1994 issue. National Weather Service, the average high and low temperatures during the All in all, it was a thoroughly It is true that this area is very month of July in Kansas City, Missouri, enjoyable trip and if forced to choose scenic and it’s also unique in that the are 88.5 F and 68.5 F respectively. The we would rather go back to Austria Kleinwalsertal section of Austria average highs and lows in key German than Switzerland. cannot be reached (except on foot) cities during July are: Berlin 76/58, Bonn Jeff Keller, Salt Lake City, UT from it’s mother country. Because of this unusual geographic phenome- 74/57, Freiburg 76/58, Hamburg 72/56, Seeking Headquarters non, we found it more interesting to Munich 74/55. A friend and I are planning a trip cross the German-Austrian border to Germany in September, 1996. We Mr. Claytor’s subscription has been and actually stay in the Kleinwalsertal will be arriving via train from Vien- refunded in full.) itself for a few days. na, Austria and are looking for an inn

Gemütlichkeit 6 October, 1995 Our hotel was the Ifen Hotel Castle and Oberammergau; English- make counterfeiting more difficult. (Oberseitestr. 6, D-87568, phone speaking guides; admission to all Those of you who have a suitcase full 08329/507 10, fax 08329/3475) in sights; city tours; welcome reception; of them at home are advised that the Hirschegg, Austria, which is just a farewell dinner; flight bag and an 500-franc note will soon be discontin- few kilometers from Oberstdorf. We inflatable neck pillow. ued. recommend it highly. There are 69 There are also numerous city rooms and some suites and a good Swissair Awards packages ranging from two nights in Swissair has been named "Most restaurant. It is also beautifully London, including a tour of the city situated and rooms facing the moun- Punctual Airline" in a readers' poll of for $139 per person, to a Rome-Flo- Britain's Business Traveller magazine. tains afford views equal to any we’ve rence-Venice nine-night arrangement, seen in the Alps. It is a couple of years In addition, Swissair was named for from $1128 to $2118, that includes "Best International Carrier" in a since we were there but the 1995 air tickets from the U.S. to Rome with Michelin Red Guide lists room rates survey of travel agents; “Best Airline return from Venice, hotel with break- Worldwide” in a poll conducted from 164 to 465 DM per room per fast, a tour of each city, first-class rail night, including breakfast and dinner. among travel trade managers by tickets between cities and a free Germany’s Holiday Magazine; and was As you state in your article, this guidebook. voted the leading European carrier in very beautiful area receives no The Munich Holiday package, the Zagat Airline Survey. through road traffic and hence is off from $798 to $2568, depending on the beaten track and peaceful. hotel, U.S. point of origin and time of TRAVELER'S DIGEST Matthias Sheeleigh, Summit, NJ travel, is airfare plus six nights hotel, Continued from page 1 city tour, free guide book and Munich aristocrats...Architecturally the side Welcome card for free public trans- EUROPE streets often have a pleasing turn-of- port and local discounts. Similar the-century look, with many houses TRAVEL deals are available for Berlin and boasting restored Jugendstil facades.” Frankfurt. Two-night arrangements BRIEFING begin at $155. “Named after the Schwabing For a copy of the brochure, fax magazine, Jugend (Youth), Jugendstil LTU Special Winter Fares DER at 800-860-9944. was Central Europe’s version of Art LTU, the German airline, is now Nouveau...” offering a $598 roundtrip to Düssel- Online Travel Help dorf and Munich from Los Angeles, The Austrian National Tourist “Visitors expecting to find a San Francisco, San Jose, Las Vegas and Office has established a page on the contemporary Bohemia in Schwabing Phoenix. The flights are on Thursdays Internet’s World Wide Web (http:// are invariably disappointed, but only and are nonstop from Los Ange- www. anto.com/) The site is for the there is still a feeling of being ‘out- les to Düsseldorf with connections to U.S. market only and while it includes side’ Munich, beyond the rules and Frankfurt. Travel must be completed a complete listing of events there is pleasures of Germany’s, if not Eu- by March 14. Departures through limited information about hotels. rope’s, gliztiest city.” December 14 include a free rental car Switzerland Tourism (former “It could be argued that the 20th for one week. For the December 21 Swiss National Tourist Office) reports century began in Schwabing. In the departure add $100. There is a 7-day their WWW site will be up and run- years just preceding World War I, advance purchase requirement and ning in “about two months.” Kandinsky painted Western art’s first other restrictions. abstract painting there, Hitler was Other WWW sources for online Book through a travel agent or hanging out in coffee houses on travel info are: call LTU at 800-888-0200. Fax your Schellingstrasse, and Lenin, midway The Rough Guides (http:// reservation request to LTU at 800- through his long exile, was writing www.hotwired.com/world) 898-9140. his most influential political pam- Conde Nast Traveler (http:// phlets in an apartment off Leopold- Winter Travel Packages www.cntravler.com/) strasse.” DER Tours has just released Lonely Planet Online (http:// Europe on Your Own, a collection of www.lonelyplanet.com/) The author also reveals some of European winter travel products Travelweb (http:// the district’s sights and hangouts: including its “Christmas Markets www.travelweb.com/) • Roxy, a cafe-bar at 48 Leopold- From Munich” package priced from Internet Hostel Guide (http:// strasse (tel. 89 349 393) is owned by $658 per person. www.hostels.com/hostels/) glamorous German TV star Iris These one-week tours begin New Swiss Currency Berber and “attracts the kind of December 2 and 9 and include hotel Switzerland has a new 50-franc crowd generally referred to in Ger- accommodations with breakfast; note, the first to bear the portrait of a many as Schicki-Micki (a contraction motorcoach excursions to Christmas woman — artist Sophie Täber-Arp, of Mickey Mouse chic).” A meal for markets in Nürnberg, Salzburg and who died in 1943. The new note is two here is about $70 including wine. Rothenburg; excursions to Linderhof also the first in a series designed to Continued on page 8… Gemütlichkeit 7 October, 1995 • Bavarian State Li- with breakfast are $72 a duck breast in cassis-and- DEAR SUBSCRIBER brary, “one of Europe’s night for a single, $108 for berry sauce. A three- Continued from page 2 largest libraries and home double. The decor in the 37 course meal with wine is modest rooms (some with about $153 for two." waiter on the boat told us that over to perhaps the most impos- the holiday weekend there had been ing staircase in Munich.” shared bath) is old fash- "Frankfurt’s native ioned, plush but dark." as many as 2,000 people on the boat. Frankfurt Hotels & drink washes down heavy The scenery was pastoral. Din- Restaurants "Luxury: The Frank- meat and mushroom ner on the return trip was excellent. Following are excerpts furter Hof, a 19th century dishes at it’s Apfelwein Service was very personal and with from Nathaniel C. Nash's grand hotel in the center of (apple wine, a ciderlike so few passengers, we were the only report on Frankfurt in the town at 33 Bethmann- alcoholic drink) restau- diners. The entire trip was most October 1, 1995 edition of strasse, (69) 215-02, fax (69) rants, where everyone eats excellent. the New York Times. 215-847, is one of the city’s elbow to elbow outside at most elegant and dignified. long wooden tables; in bad Bonn has a lovely market square Hotels in front of the Rathaus but, unlike Its 150 spacious rooms have weather the indoor seating Cologne, does not make extensive "A city service, (69) 212- high ceilings and regal is usually limited." use of the river-front. Beethoven’s 30808, can assist in finding looking furnishings: its "One of the best of the house was closed for renovations. a room - important during French restaurant is re- apple wine restaurants is the busy fair days." nowned. Singles range the Speisekammer, at 41 TRAVELER'S DIGEST "In the quieter, fashion- from $228-$361, doubles Alt Heddernheim, about 10 Continued from page 7 able West End of the city is from $336-$409." minutes by cab ($14.50) the Mozart Hotel, 17 Park- "There are 588 glitzy- from the center of town. • Drugstore, another strasse; (69) 55-0831, fax modern rooms across from The wine is served in blue chic cafe (12 Feil- (69) 569-4559. Its 35 spa- the convention center at the and grey ceramic jugs itzschtrasse, tel. 89 347 531, cious rooms, with heavy, Frankfurt Marriott Hotel, 2 called Bembel. The noise meal for two with wine old-German decor, bright Hamburger Allee; (69) 795- and the food are plentiful. about $55). maroon carpeting and 52222, fax (69) 795-52432. For hearty eaters, a rump • Cafe Reitschule, chic plenty of pictures of the Singles cost $266, doubles steak with roasted onions, and elegant (34 Königin- boy genius, cost $106 for a $309, with breakfast." pan-roasted potatoes, salad, bread pudding with strasse in English Garden, single and $153 for a dou- Restaurants tel. 89 333 402, meal for two ble, with breakfast. (Prices fruit and vanilla sauce and "In Sachsenhausen, Die with wine, $70). given are for private bath apple wine would cost $77 rooms.)" Gans, 76 Schweizer Strasse, for two. For reservations • Cafe Puck (33 features candlelight dining, — a must, especially on "Also in the West End, Türkenstrasse, tel. 89 280 and heaters keep a cano- weekends — call (69) 58- at 121 Kettenhofweg, near 2280, three-course meal for pied terrace warm even on 7711." two about $57) features Frankfurt University, is the the coldest nights. Fish and "Equally known is the Italian food and is the 21 room Hotel Silvana; poultry are the specialties. typically German-rustic author’s favorite. (69) 97 4020, fax (69) 9740 A three-course meal — Solzer, 260 Bergerstrasse, 2222. Its clean, bright tagliatelle with German • Anglia Bookshop (3 (69) 45-2171, also a short rooms have a modern, mushrooms called Pfiffer- Schellingstrasse), “one of cab ride from the center. spare look. Singles cost $91 lingen, followed by a sal- Germany’s best English- For about $44 two can have and doubles $120, with timbocca of anglerfish language bookstores.” hearty portions of grilled breakfast." (Seeteufel) with leeks and pork ribs with sauerkraut • Some of Munich’s "Budget: The atmo- potatoes and exotic-fruit and potato salad, apple finest examples of Ju- sphere is postwar German - salad with passion fruit wine and a thick blueberry gendstil can be found just dark furniture in bright sorbet — will cost $139 for compote with vanilla sauce west of Roxy on Ainmiller- rooms - at the 26 room two with wine, but not tax on top." strasse where artists Paul Hotel Diana, also near the and tip. For reservations, Klee and Vassily Kandin- University, at 83 Westend- which are recommended, "The cafes and bars on sky lived and worked. strasse; (69) 747-007, fax call (69) 61-5075." the Fressgasse are a good choice for budget meals. (69) 747-079. With break- "A lesser known but • Hohenzollernstrasse, Plöger’s Delicatessen, (69) fast, a single costs $66 a equally fine dining spot one block north, is famous 20-941, offers a variety of night, a double $115." with lovely terrace for for its small, unusual cold and warm salads and sunny lunches is Avocado fashion boutiques. "For a traditional Gast- other prepared dishes. Le Bistro at 27 Hochstrasse, haus experience in an old One can either eat standing • The grand main near Hauptwache; (69) 29- but well kept building with or sit down and be served building of the University 2867. The menu, mainly a family feel, try the Hotel along the Fressgasse. The of Munich is “one Mu- French and Italian, includes Pension Sattler, 46 menu changes daily, and nich’s architectural trea- marinated lachs (salmon) Beethovenstrasse; (69) 746- two can eat, with a glass of sures." on cucumber salad and 091, fax (69) 7480466. Rates beer or wine, for $44."

Gemütlichkeit 8 October, 1995