Denham Quarry Bouldering GR: SD 592 228

Description On first appearances Denham is a green, grafitti ridden quarry that is a popular haunt for the local underage drinkers and psychotic moto-cross enthusiasts. The more time you spend there the more you will realise that your initial impression were entirely correct, however there is some good (if not desperately attractive) bouldering here if you adopt a selective approach. Most of the problems are in the lower grades but there are one or two nasties that will take most people a while to crack. It is worth pointing out that you will need a mat if you want to do anything of quality (other than traverses) as the problems here are high and the cruxes are usually not getting off the floor.

Access No access problems.

Best Grades The majority of problems are in the sub V3 range, with a few rather hard things at V7- V11

Best Problems Pickpocket (V1), Pickpocket Direct (V2), Denham Traverse (V9), Snatch V10/11)

Approach

From the M6 travel south on the A6 to the roundabout at Clayton Green. Turn left here and follow the road round right to another roundabout. Turn left here (over the M61). After a short distance turn right into Holt Lane. The quarry and parking is obvious on the left after ¼ mile. From the M65, exit at J3 and follow the A675. Turn left just after the Royal Oak pub (B5256). Follow this through Brindle until Holt Lane appears on the left.

Section 1

Some good problems in the area right of Mohammed TMMOMHFMM. Slightly spoiled by an awkward landing but fine with a good mat.

1. V0 The arête on its right is good. 2. V2-V5 The face to the right. Eliminate. Grade depends how strict you feel. 3. V0 Easily up the face/flakes. Take care with the rock- friable. 4. Little Monkey V3 Dyno between the ledges with disappointingly poor foot-holds.

Section 2

5. Snatch V10/11 Climb the very blank steep slab/wall right of the diagonal crack using the obvious sidepull and some microscopic crimps. Very hard and high. 6. Pickpocket V1 Start at the small groove/flake a take a rightward trending line to the obvious large pocket just below the large ledge. (Traditionally this is the start to Monkey Puzzle, HVS 5c) 7. Pickpocket Direct V2 Start just left of the thin crackline and climb directly up the wall on good crimps. Finish as for Pickpocket or slightly right (a bit harder). 8. Crackpot V4 Climb the thin crackline, technical first move and doesn’t ease much. 9. Crap Pot V7 Start just left of the shallow groove with your hands on very poor, small holds. Make a hard move up with your right to the obvious crimp, then a long move with your left to a slopey crimp. Finish as for problem 6. 10. V3 Climb the vague groove. Awkward and reachy.

Sections 3&4

Section 3 These problems are all short and are better from sit-starts.

11. V0 Climb the crack/ corner with ease. 12. V1 The next crack/ corner is also easy. 13. V0 Rather eliminate. Climb the short face without holds on adjacent problems. Even more eliminate is to climb only the crack in the nose, or to eliminate this. All easy. Coolboy Slap II V0 Slap from undercuts A to top B. Nice move, but easy. 14. V0 Easy crack/ corner. Useful as a descent. 15. V1 The face is easiest in the centre. 16. V0 The easy corner.

Section 4 Unfortunately, these problems have a rather poor landing and are often dirty.

17. V8+ Powerful reach from a good hold to an high undercut. Somehow move up off this then trend right to the arete. Descend down the right hand side of the arete. Or jump with care. 18. V5 Climb the arete on its left hand side until stood above the bulge. Descent as for problem 13.

The Denham Traverse

Now you’re talking. The Lancashire Rock guide stated “there is a low level traverse from the corner of Wet, to Green Finger Crack at 5b-6a depending on which bits are missed out”. It must be assumed that “low level” is used loosely. The traverse of Section 2 merits V8+/V9 on its own, especially after the council sand-blasted the few decent foot-holds. The natural line now rises slightly at the crack of Crackpot. The Traverse of Section 3 is worth V7a+/V8 if the shelf is avoided and is quite fingery. The last leg to the arête (section 4) is dirty and powerful (V7+) at the end of a long journey.

The whole traverse from MTMMFMHFMM to Flick of the Wrist in one push would be around V9/V9+ although a sport grade is probably more appropriate. The best problem at Denham. Get to it.

Other Problems

At the right hand side of the pool is an obvious short sharp arete this is a nice V1. It is harder to climb the wall without using the arete, a pleasing V3 eliminate. Further right of this is a low wall with a very overgrown top, there are some up problems on this but the top- outs are horrible and the climbing is not great. The best thing on this piece of rock is the left to right low traverse. Start as far left as possible and traverse as far right as you can then step off. Stay low on small crimps and it is probably worth V7.

Round the arête to the left of Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits is an obvious slab. Climbing the centre of this is a frequently greasy V3/4. It is also possible to create a number of fun eliminates on the large slopey holds just left of the arete itself.

It is possible to find other problems further left in the rest of the quarry, they tend not to be that good but it can be fun exploring.

Credits

This guide is based (heavily) on Nik Jenning’s guide from November 2005. His grades have been modified in accordance with recent changes due to council sand-blasting with a few problems added. All credit to Nik for the original guide.