Wellington Town Council A HISTORY OF O UR W ELLINGTON BY ALLAN FROST

WELLINGTON THE FIRST 1000 YEARS Erdington was granted possession ellington is an ancient of the manor in 1211. OWN REST T C town in Shropshire, Although it was normal for The crest (above) was designed Wsubsumed into the English manor houses to stand and authorised by the College Telford conurbation since 1968 but close to churches, quite where the of Arms from information and with its own distinctive identity manor at Wellington was located ideas submitted by Wellington and proud history. has never been ascertained. The Urban District Council clerk Various theories have been put ‘manor’ lands originally included John Broad, as well as chairman forward to explain the town’s not only Wellington itself but also Cecil Lowe, in March 1951. humble origins but none can several villages in the area plus The design of the Coat of compete with the accepted five outlying berewicks (estates) at Arms features: wisdom that Wellington is named Apley, Arleston, Aston, Dothill • a castle (a reference to Apley after an Anglo-Saxon settler and Walcot. Castle which was demolished named Weola, Weala or similar With Norman rule came a during the 1950s); who arrived and farmed here at gradual expansion in both the • two fleurs-de-lys (from the some time during the sixth or, population and size of the village. Arms of France which were more likely, seventh century. Located as it was between two Whether or not he was quartered and appeared in the main east-west thoroughfares of descended from mercenaries the day (Watling Street to the Royal Arms of King Charles I, invited to quell native rebellions in south and The Portway linking who made his famous sub-Roman Britain, or was obliged Shrewsbury with Newport to the Declaration to his troops near to relocate after the destruction of north), it was linked to both by Wellington, thus marking the the nearby Roman town at narrow lanes. beginning of the English Civil Wroxeter, is not known. Whatever In time, a by-pass road (now War in 1642); his background, he must have called King Street) enabled • a lion rampant (from the been happy to settle here. travellers to avoid the narrow Arms of the Charlton family Between Weola’s arrival and streets of the village centre. In who owned Apley Castle); the Domesday survey of 1086, the those early days, the main route • a fret (the hashing behind settlement had expanded into that into Wellington was via Church the lion rampant, taken from of a village, complete with a Street from the north, a road along the Arms of the Eyton family at windmill and small Saxon chapel which early dwellings and Eyton-on-the-Wealdmoors and with its own priest. hostelries would have been built the Cluddes of Orleton); After the Conquest of 1066, to catch passing trade. The road • and a bugle horn (from the Edwin, earl of Mercia (who died in was split into two during the Arms of the Lord Forester, 1071) was replaced as owner of Victorian period whereupon the whose ancestors were Wellington manor by a Norman northern section was renamed custodians of part of the ‘tenant in chief’: Roger de Park Street. Wrekin Forest from the Middle Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury. To distinguish it from other Roger was succeeded by his son Ages onwards). Wellingtons in England, the Robert de Belleme who, by all settlement was known for a while The portcullis at the top of accounts, was quite an unpleasant as ‘Welyngton under The Wrekyn’, the crest is an emblem denoting and cruel character. perhaps reflecting the importance the town’s relationship with He forfeited his possessions to and dominant nature of the nearby Apley Castle. the Crown in 1102 and, between prominent hill. The motto Deo Adjuvante then and the early thirteenth In keeping with the increasing translates as century, Wellington and its size and importance of Wellington, ‘With God’s Help’. revenues were passed from one a larger new church replaced the favoured family to another until original Saxon chapel during the county sheriff Thomas de twelfth century. It was in the

© Allan Frost, 2017 century. While such charters were often hereditary, they could be (and often were) withdrawn by the Crown and given to some other favoured person. Over the years, Wellington’s markets and (eventually) quarterly fairs were the subject of four charters (1244, 1283, 1514 and 1692) before entitlement to collect tolls was transferred by local church yard that markets, fairs landowner Lord Forester and other community (sometimes called ‘Forster’ or entertainment took place, until ‘Foster’) to Wellington Market King Edward I changed the law by Hall Company in 1856. the Statute of Winchester (1285) It was at about the same time after which such secular and as the first charter that plans were irreligious events were supposed put into effect to develop the The narrow entrance (above) to to find new venues. centre of Wellington. an ancient lane called Ten Tree It was probably then that The The market seems to have Croft still exists between these Green, located next to the church spread along the southern section buildings; the name is derived yard, appeared. Only a small of modern Church Street from The from a corruption of ‘Tenter Croft’, triangle of The Green remains, as Green into what is now Market a smallholding with a field in this 2009 photo shows: Square; the whole of this section which fabrics were stretched on was called Market Place until the wooden frames and held in place early years of the nineteenth using tenter hooks. century and was bounded on one The difference in levels side by the church yard and on the between the road in Church Street other by a succession of new itself and the ground within the buildings from which folk could church yard is probably due to the ply trades and play their part in pounding of feet wearing the developing the local economy. ground down on the one side, and

Markets have been the key to Wellington’s commercial success since at least the thirteenth century. They were already popular and attracted folk from far and wide when, in 1244, Giles de Erdington paid King Henry III a suitable inducement to grant him a market charter (the extract from the original vellum roll recording the grant is shown below). Wellington as a township, it should be noted, has never held a market charter in its own right. This charter allowed Giles to raise a toll on animals and products brought into the town for sale. In other words, the Charter was nothing more than a money- spinner for lords of the manor. Wellington’s was just one of 3,300 charters granted during that

2 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com centuries of burials raising the soil Thereafter, as the free market level on the other. developed, greater emphasis was Market Square itself was much given to financial considerations larger than it is now and gradually than obligation, and land and bounded on its southern side by other property was able to change rows of wooden stalls which hands more freely, without subsequently became more constraints imposed by class. If permanent until, by 1600, they had anyone had the money, they could developed into the cellared rows use it to advance themselves and of buildings forming Bell, Crown their families. and Duke Streets. This became more obvious as Holyhead Road from about 1480 Three new parallel lanes were time progressed. Interestingly, the and later at Dothill Manor (above) also laid out, which later became basic street layout in the centre of until the late eighteenth century Market Street, Walker Street and Wellington remained pretty much when the family seat moved to Foundry Road, while the western the same from the later medieval Willey Hall near Broseley. As with end of New Street seems to have period until the nineteenth the Charltons, the Foresters been created at the beginning of century. became lords and managed to the fourteenth century, with This is not to say property acquire considerable property and burgess plots (long, narrow development stagnated; in fact, land in and around Wellington. patches of ground with a shop or the contrary was the case. New One of them, John Forester house fronting the edge of the buildings tended to be erected in (sometimes Forster’), was granted road with workshops, warehouses gaps along existing streets; a most unusual concession by and gardens behind) providing eventually, New Street, for King Henry VIII in 1520 when he more permanent dwellings and example, which stretched from was allowed to wear his ‘bonnet’ trade outlets. In time, New Street Market Square to the present in the king’s presence on account extended eastwards. junction where Mill Bank meets of ‘certain diseases and infirmities A few years ago, archaeological King Street, had so many which he has in his head’. This discoveries behind Edgbaston properties by the mid nineteenth concession has apparently been House (below) in Walker Street century that it was split into two, retained by successive Lords indicate that this area was the with the eastern portion renamed Forester to the present day. southern limit of the earlier village High Street. The Old Hall became a school prior to or shortly after the Wellington remained a in the nineteenth century and the creation of Market Place. community whose existence grounds are now a private Something may have happened depended on farming, both housing estate. to halt Wellington’s expansion as pastoral and arable. Medieval Another, more famous, very little progress in town livestock, particularly pigs, were Wellingtonian, was Sir Thomas development appears to have able to take limited advantage of Leigh (c.1499-1571, below). His occurred between the fourteenth the Royal Forest of The Wrekin father Roger was a mercer in the and eighteenth centuries. whose ‘verdurers’ or wardens town. Mercers were among a It could well have been the enforced harsh forest laws to limit growing band of businessmen arrival of the Black Plague around what could and couldn’t be done whose family fortunes would be 1350, which greatly reduced the by peasants in the woodland over made over the next few centuries. population and ultimately led to which they had full control. the breakdown of the last vestiges Provided the monarch had a good of the feudal economy. supply of deer, boar and other creatures capable of giving a few days’ worth of good hunting, the verdurer was guaranteed a job, not only for his own lifetime but also during the lives of his heirs. The forest wardenship was eventually held by the Foresters who lived at (below) Old Hall,

© Image courtesy of Stoneleigh Abbey

Visit Wellington Town Council at http://www.wellington-shropshire.gov.uk 3 Thomas was appointed as important nail making industry London agent to another mercer, emerged and continued in places Rowland Hill of nearby Hodnet. until the mid 1800s. Nail making While Rowland became Lord was essentially a ‘cottage’ industry Mayor of London in 1540, which took place in the homes of Thomas, also a member of the very poor people. Haberdashers’ Guild, attained that They would be given a supply powerful position in 1558, the year of metal, probably in wire and in which Queen (‘Bloody’) Mary wrought iron lengths of varying died. thicknesses, by a middle man who where the members of the Thomas was instrumental in told them what sort of nails he Charlton family lived and whose deferring the accession of wanted them to make, and gave members were mainly supporters Elizabeth I so that the politically them a deadline. Using the most of the Crown. Apley lay close to sensitive issue of realigning the basic tools (anvil, hammers, pliers The Portway, the shortest route English monarchy’s sympathies and a coal fire blown by bellows), from Newport, where Charles and from Catholic to Protestant would they’d toil in hot, filthy conditions. his growing army had spent the not result in anarchy. As Lord Providing their work was previous night on their Mayor, Thomas arranged and led satisfactory, the middle man recruitment journey from Elizabeth’s coronation pageant in would pay them and leave Nottingham to Shrewsbury. January 1559 and gained a another supply of materials for Contrary to wishful thinking, knighthood for his efforts. processing. there is no evidence that Charles His country seat was at It has been estimated that over himself ever set foot in the town Stoneleigh Abbey, Warwickshire 130 different nails were produced (although his recruiting officers and is well worth a visit. in rows of hovel-like cottages undoubtedly did), and his famous along Chapel Lane (along which ‘Wellington Declaration’, 1600 TO 1800 today’s health centre is located) pronouncing war on Parliament’s Gradually, small farming-related and ‘Nailors Row’, whose name is opposing forces, was delivered to industries developed. By the end preserved in a car park off Victoria his army and Privy Council, not of the sixteenth century, Road. the townsfolk, immediately before Wellington had grown sufficiently moving on to Shrewsbury. This to attract tradesmen and was Declaration signalled the start of benefitting from a new breed of the English Civil War; special well-heeled gentlemen willing and coins were subsequently struck to able to invest in the local economy. mark the event. This was to prove a good foundation for subsequent economic and social improvement. It was at about this time that the true wealth and industrial potential of minerals in the east Shropshire coalfield to the south and east of Wellington was being discovered, with the first commercially-viable iron furnaces appearing in places like Madeley Wood and Donnington Wood. In Wellington itself, bell casting became an important activity from the 1580s until about 1700. However, Wellington didn’t Although we do not know where Wellington gained an escape unscathed. Apley Castle the foundry actually stood, it was important place in British history became a target for Parliamentary run by the Clibury family and when King Charles I stayed troops, who captured it for a short produced bells for over seventy overnight from 19th to 20th time and before the Royalists churches in Shropshire alone. September 1642. Unfortunately, retook it and dismantled damaged Interestingly, Wellington’s despite unsupported speculation, parts. A new (third) castle, in the Medieval parish church had six the exact location of his stay is not style of an impressive stately bells by the time of its demolition known other than that it was ‘in home, was built nearby in the in 1789, yet none were cast in the the environs of Wellington’. 1790s and enlarged in the 1850s, town. Apley Castle (top right, the and parts of the former castle It was probably during the second to be built north east of the converted into a stable block. seventeenth century that an town centre) has been suggested, Sadly, the building was sold and

4 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com ‘trade tokens’, were supposed to dairy products were sold by be redeemable solely by the women on market days in the person issuing them, such was the sheltered space on the ground dearth of national coinage that between the columns. Sadly, the they became common currency House was dismantled by the throughout the duration of the Foresters c.1805 as it was war until shortly after 1672 when apparently causing congestion and the Royal Mint was able to resume inconvenience to the free normal production. movement of pedestrians and demolished 100 years later, One major addition to (horse drawn) vehicles. Plaques although the grounds may be Wellington’s public buildings was set in the paving of Market Square visited, and the stable block now the Market House, which seems to show the approximate location comprises private apartments. have been built and paid for by and dimensions of the Market In the absence of any larger Lord Forester some time before House. building in the town capable of 1680. Whether it was on the site of Wellington’s economic fortunes accommodating even a small an earlier building in Market continued their long and steady number of troops, Cromwell’s Square isn’t known, but the upturn throughout the eighteenth soldiers occupied the parish Market House was a half-timbered century, predominantly as a direct church, extensively damaging the building supported by columns. result of burgeoning mining and fabric, windows and statuettes, The upper building was used industrial activity on the coalfield. which were used for musket target to conduct market and court It became the largest commercial practice. Thereafter, the Medieval business and was let out to centre in the district, providing not church became increasingly societies and as an amenity for just legal, banking and unstable and unusable until it was social activities, while poultry and accountancy services but also an demolished to enable the present extensive range of trade supplies church of All Saints to be built in (among them rope-, basket- and 1790, a few metres east of its candle-making) as well as predecessor. fashionable mercers, haberdashers, The Civil War not only caused milliners, tailors and a variety of considerable upheaval to peace in other personal and household the country but also within goods suppliers (including dealers families, whose members could in imported tea, coffee, wines and find themselves on opposing sides spirits and a range of other exotic in a war in which no one could be items). trusted. The war not only One firm deserves special destroyed castles, churches, homes mention. It was based in the and families, it also caused severe Bradford Arms pub in Market damage to the economy. Square and begun by William Coinage became scarce, and Wardell in or before 1780. there was a danger that trade The business was taken over by would suffer a total collapse if John Slaney in January 1835, tradesmen weren’t allowed to whereafter it became known as issue their own currency. (A Slaney’s Vaults, with later trade similar situation arose towards the outlets in Market Street as well as end of the eighteenth century.) Oakengates and Broseley. Wrekin Consequently, mercers like Brewery acquired the firm in 1932. Stephen Wright were allowed to produce their own small- denomination copper, brass, pewter, lead and even leather coins between 1642 and 1672 in an effort to stimulate and maintain trade. Although these coins, or

Visit Wellington Town Council at http://www.wellington-shropshire.gov.uk 5 While small businesses helped Street in London to be built. ‘Our’ digitalis (extracted from the the process of turning Wellington George preferred to live a humble foxglove) in treating heart from a large village into a sizeable somewhat dissolute life and what disease. and notable town, some credit was left of the family fortune Unfortunately, we do not know must also go to the two dominant following his death went to found whereabouts in Wellington either landowners whose own fortunes Downing College at Cambridge the Plimers or Dr. Withering were improved during this period. The after years of legal wrangling. born, although a sketch of Foresters and Charltons Withering’s birthplace drawn a encouraged exploitation of few years after his death by mineral wealth on their extensive Shrewsbury schoolteacher David lands. Parkes, has survived: In particular, lime working and coal mining just south of Wellington took place on Lord Forester’s land, while the Charltons had considerable interests in all manner of mining and industrial activities throughout the east Shropshire coalfield. Wellington was fortunate to have such forward-looking benefactors. By the end of the eighteenth 1801 TO 1901 century, the town was well served The nineteenth century witnessed by plenty of everyday shops, Nathaniel Plimer (above, 1757- an astounding series of changes to permanent accommodation in the 1822) and his brother Andrew Wellington’s economy, society and form of cheap tenements and more (c.1763-1837), sons of a Wellington appearance. Although the first half than a smattering of public clock maker, achieved enviable of the century saw continued houses, taverns and inns. reputations for painting extremely steady growth, the town’s future Prosperity in Wellington, at least fine miniatures which are now relied heavily on the fortunes of for those engaged in middle class highly sought after. Regrettably, it the district’s mining activities and enterprise, was definitely on the has not been possible to find a scattered industrial concerns as increase. portrait of Andrew Plimer. well as the state of local farming. Four Wellingtonians from this Dr. William Withering (below, Early in the century, single- and period deserve special mention. 1741-1799), son of an apothecary, two-storey timber framed George Downing (below, 1684- studied medicine at Edinburgh dwellings and shops in and 1749), was raised by Lord Forester University and became one of the around the town centre were at Dothill Manor. His spy- most eminent physicians of the either clad with bricks and made diplomat- shady property day. A member of the illustrious taller with added storeys, or developer grandfather (also Lunar Society comprising replaced entirely by brick named Sir George Downing), inventors and industrialists, he is buildings, a process which described by Diarist Samuel Pepys best remembered as a botanist and continued for over a century, as ‘a perfidious rogue’, amassed a the man who recognised and ultimately altering the centuries- fortune which paid for Downing developed the properties of old outward appearance from that of a dusty low-roofed village to a business-like modern town. Wellington was in an advantageous position when it came to communications, particularly from around 1820 onwards when travel by stage coach became not only more

6 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com frequent but also (slightly) less acceptable alternative to uncomfortable as improvements to unprocessed water for those who the condition of major roads did not wish to consume alcohol became increasingly important. for one reason or another. Businessmen could travel more The effects of the Beer Acts and freely and postal services became the arrival of passenger railway more regular and reliable. services included a steep rise in However, it was the arrival of ordinary folk travelling to and steam railway passenger services from the town, and the number of in 1849 that provided an incredible visitors (especially those wishing boost to the area’s economy. to breathe the healthy air on The Wrekin Hill) requiring food and accommodation. Consequently, the number of inns, hotels (including the iconic Charlton Arms) and other hostelries with varying facilities increased. also a major driving force in Tourism also had the desirable commercial development and knock-on effect of encouraging town improvement. It is no other enterprises, like souvenir exaggeration to say that and gift shops, photography and Wellington’s prosperity during One noticeable addition to the art studios, laundry services and a and after Victorian times owes types of business trading in wealth of other small, family-run much to this man whose Wellington was that of breweries. businesses wishing to satisfy the enthusiasm, vision and Prior to about 1850, beer and ale rise in consumerism as the achievement was unprecidented. production had largely been Victorian era progressed. Barber’s original Smithfield conducted by inns located within The most important aspect of soon outgrew the small plot the town itself. the town economy to develop (approximately where the public However, various Beer Acts from the 1850s was that of a well- convenience building is at Victoria dating from around 1830 had been run livestock market, which Road Bus Station) he operated introduced with a view to became known as The Smithfield. from for the first dozen or so weaning the public off gin, which Run by John Barber (top right), years. was seen as responsible for too it regularised the sale of farm He needed to expand, and the much that was wrong in society, animals and did away with the opportunity arose during the mid and onto beer and ale, which were openly dishonest practices of 1860s when Wellington Markets regarded as highly preferable at a dealers from Wolverhampton and Company enlisted his help to time when drinking unprocessed Birmingham who had previously draw up plans and oversee the water was inadvisable (as, indeed, dominated local sales. necessary legalities to acquire land it had been since the Middle John Barber, a surveyor and to build a new Market Hall, which Ages). property agent as well as a remains an essential asset to the As a direct result, malting livestock and household goods town’s economy. enterprises expanded at a auctioneer, gained a reputation for In 1868, as a gesture of thanks, remarkable rate when laws honest and fair dealing. He was the Market Hall Company erected concerning beer production and a new Smithfield (below), much sale were relaxed. Malthouses larger and better equipped than were scattered in various locations Barber’s original, and granted him around the town, with the more sole rights to operate there and successful centred around The collect the tolls to which the Lawns. Company was entitled. It was only a matter of time The Smithfield (which before someone hit on the idea of eventually became the largest and opening a brewery, where the most successful outside London benefits of large-scale production and distribution could lead to healthy profits. The first brewery to open was the Shropshire Brewery in 1851 (aside, top), followed by the Wrekin Brewery (bottom) in 1871. Several pop (or ‘mineral water’) works followed provided a safe and more

Visit Wellington Town Council at http://www.wellington-shropshire.gov.uk 7 but was obliged to close in 1989 town’s more successful because of the economic climate) businessmen. From 1894, stood on land now occupied by Wellington Urban District Council today’s Morrison’s supermarket replaced the Commissioners. and car park. In addition to securing a clean Although the Market House and regular water supply, had been demolished c.1805, a commissioners also saw to the replacement wasn’t built until creation of a new cemetery (to Wellington Market Hall Company replace the parish church yard, (which subsequently changed its which had become overcrowded name several times) erected a through centuries of burials) and a owner of the town’s first brewery Town Hall off The Shambles (now replacement workhouse on which stood a couple of hundred named Market Approach) in 1848. Holyhead Road, located yards east, also in Holyhead Road. This was rebuilt when the present significantly further away than the The later years of the Market Hall was erected in 1866. former Walker Street workhouse nineteenth century saw a rise in There were several successful originally erected in 1797 (itself the number and variety of leisure manufacturing businesses rebuilt c.1840) and behind the and social events which were operating in Wellington cemetery. accessible to the general throughout this period, To our Victorian ancestors, population, not just businessmen. particularly Samuel Corbett & reputation and image were all- One notable development was Son’s Park Street works, which important, so much so that some that of a town football team. produced numerous award- of Wellington’s streets were Initially known as Wellington winning mechanised implements renamed to give the impression of Parish Church Institute (‘PCI’) for use on farms throughout the respectability. Brewery Street around February 1875, the team world. Unbelievably, more than a (which became Prince’s Street, the joined the English Football few have survived and are still in only road with an official Association when the governing use in farms scattered around the apostrophe), Dun Cow Lane body was formed in 1877. globe. (Duke Street), Swine Market (Bell By 1879, the team seems to Street) and The Shambles (Market have adopted the name Approach) were some of those ‘Wellington’ or ‘Wellington Town’ affected. which was retained (although From the mid nineteenth known locally as ‘The Lilywhites’) century onwards, members of the until it changed to Telford United middle class displayed their in 1969. success and wealth by living in The club ground (below) is at new ‘gentlemen’s villas’ in areas the Buck’s Head, taken from the then regarded as out-of-town, like name of the adjacent former pub Mill Bank and Waterloo Road, as in Watling Street, and the team well as other streets on the may have been located here since periphery. the late 1880s. Perhaps the most notable of these villas is Sunnycroft (top right), now a National Trust property on Holyhead Road, originally built by J.G. Wackrill,

Another firm of international renown was Richard Groom (aside) & Sons, timber merchants whose premises were near Over the years, the club has Groom’s Alley. As well as major won many trophies (with five manufacturers of wooden visits to Wembley Stadium and products from indigenous trees, winning the FA Trophy three the firm was also the largest times) and played in various importer of foreign timber in the leagues, currently the Conference country. North League. Following financial Between 1856 and 1894, difficulties, the club has been sanitation and other developments called AFC (Amateur Football in Wellington were overseen by Club) Telford United since 2004. Town Commissioners, a body Henry John Gauntlett (1805- which invariably comprised the 1876) was the church organist who

8 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com SINCE 1901 The first half of the twentieth century was yet another period of change, undoubtedly the most far- reaching in its history. Whereas family-run shops and other businesses probably reached the peak of their relative importance to the town’s economy, the success of manufacturing would see a rapid upturn before an inevitable decline. Furthermore, the attitudes of ordinary folk to the government of the day in general and the town’s leaders in particular were increasingly affected by the devastating aftermath of the Great War. gave us the hymn tune format by Charles Dickens and the People no longer knew their with which churchgoers have publication of Jessica’s First Prayer proper place, an aspect of British become so familiar. in 1866. She wrote a further 60 or social history which became more Indeed, he wrote many tunes, so books and numerous magazine apparent during and after the including IRBY, the name of the articles, many about the plight of Second World War. music which begins many a the poor in Victorian England as Folk expected (and demanded) Christmas service with the carol well as other subjects like the legal politicians, both local and national, ‘Once in Royal David’s City’. position of women. to raise standards of living. Henry’s father (also named A founder member of the body The Lych Gate war memorial at Henry) was curate at All Saints which became today’s National All Saints parish church was church until 1814 when the family Society for the Prevention of erected in 1922 and contains brass moved to Olney, Bucks. Cruelty to Children, Hesba’s work plaques listing the names of Although starting a career in and the impact her writing had on Wellingtonians who died as a law in London, Henry became politicians and the shaping of result of both World Wars. increasingly immersed in the certain social laws during her world of church music and lifetime, is now sadly overlooked. became involved in virtually every Cecil Lawson (1849-1882) was published collection of hymns for born at Fountain Place, New almost fifty years. He was also Church Road, and became one of instrumental in aspects of organ England’s most famous artists, design. exhibiting at the Royal Academy Despite not being formally between 1870 and 1871 while trained, Henry became a Doctor of living in Chelsea. After marriage Music and a man of colossal in 1879, he moved to Haslemere, Wellington Urban District musical knowledge. His Surrey, where his health Council responded by embarking reputation was such that the deteriorated dramatically. He died on improving the quality of composer, Felix Mendelssohn, before reaching his full potential. council-owned housing, initially at announced: ‘He ought to have a the southern end of Regent Street. statue’! However, larger council estates Sarah Smith (1832-1911), really got under way from the arguably Wellington’s most 1930s onwards, when new estates famous daughter best known by needed to coincide with ambitious her pen name Hesba Stretton, was slum clearance projects, processes born in New Street where her which continued into the 1960s. father Benjamin Smith was Sadly, slum clearance was postmaster and owner of a pursued with an enthusiasm printing works and bookshop. which ultimately destroyed Influenced by what she examples of the town’s witnessed while growing up and architectural and social heritage, working in the town, she became especially within the High Street- an internationally famous Glebe Street-St John Street triangle authoress following her discovery where planners encouraged the

Visit Wellington Town Council at http://www.wellington-shropshire.gov.uk 9 While the Wrekin Brewery itself remained in Market Street, the Shropshire Brewery became O.D.’s fizzy pop works and the preferred bottling plant for large concerns like Guinness and Worthington, as well as pop manufacturers whose products competed with the Wrekin Brewery’s own. Another important construction of blocks of flats and acquisition was that of Slaney’s and ceased trading during the storeyed maisonettes; fortunately, Vaults (see above) in 1932, which century. Both businesses were, high rise flats, the blight on many gave O.D. a crucial wines and coincidentally, housed in former a townscape, were avoided. spirits licence. chapels. The 1930s was a time when In a prolonged period when the Similar economic and social private home ownership became a pub trade was at best changes have affected the number reality for those who could obtain unpredictable, the Murphys took of public houses in the town. A and afford to repay mortgages. risks, and ultimately enabled the mere handful now exist when, a Herbert Avenue (above, caustically Wrekin Brewery, with over 200 hundred years ago, there were at called ‘Bread and Dripping Lane’ tied houses, to become the largest least 45, each with its own band of because some new homebuyers privately owned brewery in the regular patrons. couldn’t afford to eat nutritiously country. The brewery’s assets were There are countless reasons for after taking on a mortgage), acquired by Greenall Whitley in this, not least excessive regulation Roseway and Christine Avenue are 1966 and both brewery and pop and taxation, but the fact that some of the earliest roads works closed for good in 1969. there has been a shift away from developed exclusively for private Both were subsequently brewery tied houses towards dwellings. demolished despite their ownership by pub chains and These significant developments importance to the town’s heritage. property developers has were followed by more ambitious Sadly, every other once- undoubtedly adversely affected projects for further council and important manufacturing business trade. However, the demise of the private housing development in the town closed during the public house seems to have elsewhere in and around the town. twentieth century. The Smithfield coincided in recent years with a Some firms adapted to market, Groom’s timber yard, rise in the number of cafes and changing times, others didn’t. For Corbett’s agricultural implements, eating establishments catering for example, four independent and many more no longer trade, customers. breweries and several mineral victims of changing economic As with other British water manufacturers were conditions, social demands and population concentrations, ultimately reduced to one ... but political whims. ‘modern’ ideas on town planning what a strong one it proved to be! Soft toys, expertly produced by and subsequent building Under the initial leadership of the Chad Valley in their Wrekin developments weren’t always O.D. Murphy (‘O.D.’, (below) Toy Works (below) in New Street beneficial in the long term. whose name became synonymous (where Sooty (bottom right) and The example often cited is that with drink production) and later Sweep were made alongside of the ring road (visible in the his two sons, the Wrekin Brewery innumerable much-loved Teddy photo at the foot of the next page), dominated the scene from the bears; comedian and broadcaster originally conceived in the 1940s 1920s onwards. Kenneth Horne was a director). and already outdated when Additionally, Norah Wellings’s Victoria Toy Works (next column, top) in King Street created high quality dolls, including bespoke sailor dolls for luxury cruise liners, especially during the 1930s) began

10 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com implemented in the late 1960s and 1988 saw the relinquishing of a early 1970s. This ‘noose’ had the few decision-making aspects of effect of restricting economic local government when growth, deterring existing Wellington Town Council, business investment, and severely complete with mayoral leadership hitting the modestly successful which had not existed hitherto, trading areas beyond the ring was created. Although the present road, leading them into a rapid Telford & Wrekin Council is decline. responsible for final decisions, the the market, which currently opens Fate dealt yet another blow to Town Council has the ability to on Tuesday, Thursdays, Fridays Wellington’s fortunes and express at least some of the and Saturdays and brings many independence when Government opinions of its electorate. tourists, as well as shoppers, to the plans to create a ‘new town’ were Wellington’s overall trading town. expanded in 1968 to include a economy has suffered a decline Throughout its long existence, much wider area than originally over the last 30 years, partly due Wellington has welcomed and intended. This new town, which to policies of neglect adopted by accommodated folk from all ethnic was actually no more than a leaders of Telford & Wrekin and religious backgrounds, which conurbation of existing townships Council who apparently preferred might explain why visitors and within the area designated as to concentrate their efforts on residents find it such a pleasant ‘Telford’, ultimately removed the promoting a central, privately place. Wellington’s ability to determine owned shopping centre. The There is so much more to its own future. situation has been changing in Wellington’s story than is related Wellington Urban District recent years and greater emphasis here. For further historical Council governed the town until has been placed on making good information on Wellington, The Local Government reorganisation the damage with projects intended Wrekin Hill and the surrounding in 1974, whereupon Wellington to boost the town’s economic countryside, follow the link to ceased to be in control of its own prospects as well as improve its Wellington History Group’s web destiny and ultimately became just outward appearance. site, and experiment with searches one of several townships within Whereas there are few on the internet. the Telford conurbation. That year traditional small, family-run © Allan Frost, 2017 marked the beginning of shops, and national charity shops Wellington’s political, economic seem to dominate and make and social development relying on competition with local traders THE WREKIN HILL decisions made by the newly- almost impossible, Wellington’s formed Wrekin District Council, prospects appear to be on the often in conjunction with Telford ascendant. Development Corporation, a Market Square (top right) quango whose powers of property continues to be the commercial acquisition, demolition and hub. One particular business construction were greatly resented continues to provide an anchor for by many locals. trade as it has done for centuries:

Despite what geologists say, many locals know, without a shadow of doubt, that The Wrekin Hill was created by at least one, possibly two giants (the precise details, as with all good legends, vary). It certainly wasn’t a volcano, although volcanic activity did play its part, and some of the oldest rocks in the British Isles are to be found here. The remains of two hill forts lie beneath the surface around the summit, the oldest dating back some three thousand years. The original fort was reshaped and reinforced some five hundred years later and fell into disuse

Visit Wellington Town Council at http://www.wellington-shropshire.gov.uk 11 when the Romans left their former source of materials needed to legionary fortress at nearby support a rural economy with its Wroxeter (now protected by vegetation carefully managed to English Heritage and well worth a provide timber for buildings, fuel, visit) during the latter years of the artefacts, grazing and food. first century, whereupon the land Charcoal was once produced in there became the first proper town substantial quantities on countless occupied by the Cornovians, our platforms (levelled ground) tribal ancestors. around the hill, much of it used Souvenirs in the form of scene- Despite its national importance for smelting iron before the use of bearing pottery and postcards and international renown, there coal and, later, coke became the were sold in Wellington shops. have only been two, relatively norm. Horse drawn carriages could be minor, archaeological explorations, Contrary to popular belief, The hired from ‘posting houses’ like in 1939 and 1973 (the latter before Wrekin is not a publicly-owned the Charlton Arms, the Ercall a telecommunications building hill but rather owned by people Hotel and the Duke of Wellington was erected). Nevertheless, some who need to manage it carefully. which also advertised family interesting finds have been The public has the right to wander accommodation, not just for unearthed, like pottery containers its footpaths but also has ‘commercial travellers’. for storing salt (the Cornovians responsibilities, such as not The Halfway House (above) were famous for salt production) causing damage or excessive was well known for its cooked and even a decorated enamel cow erosion to footpaths. breakfasts and frilly-uniformed bell, rather like the ones you see in This fact was understood waitresses. ‘happy cow’ advertisements for when Forest Law applied in the However, pride of place went Swiss chocolates and real butter. Middle Ages. The hill gave its to the 1889 Forest Glen Pavilion Rather than occupy the summit name to the Royal Forest of The (below), which became a much- of the hill throughout the year, it Wrekin whose upkeep was the loved venue by visitors to The looks as though the ancient responsibility of a ‘verdurer’, one Wrekin who expected the courtesy community sheltered here over of whose descendants became the of being able to access basic winter before returning to lowland Lords Forester. As ‘keepers’, the amenities, especially since they farms in spring, and migrated Foresters made sure that ancient had travelled a distance and were back to the hill after harvests had laws governing access and use of supporting the local economy. been gathered and grain stored in the woodland by villagers were The Pavilion closed after one pits in readiness for the next strictly followed. Forest Law was hundred years serving the needs period of seasonal occupation. unyielding and its punishments of travellers and local residents. A The fortress not only provided harsh. Basically, the forest needed visitor car park currently marks protection against wild animals to be well stocked with deer, boar the location. but also shelter in times of and other game on the off chance A walk up The Wrekin is like a adversity. Having said that, there the monarch (Henry II, for pilgrimage. It occupies a special is no evidence that a battle against example) or noblemen came here place in the hearts of everyone the Romans ever took place on the to enjoy the thrill of the chase. At who was born beneath its shadow hill: a couple of javelin or arrow one time, the hill was known as and provides an everlasting heads and a little burnt timber Mount Gilbert and had succession memory for those who have don’t constitute a battle. However, of hermits living on its slopes. experienced its magic; it’s almost numerous Bronze Age weapons The Wrekin Hill is known as if it casts a spell demanding were stumbled across around 1840 throughout the world. People loyalty and affection from which at Willowmoor (on the south- come great distances to visit. Even there’s no escape. eastern slope of the hill) when a in the 1840s, a leisurely climb up farm worker was digging drainage its slopes was an essential aspect channels. Their existence, together of tourism by the well-to-do. with a few buried human remains, By the time railways opened implies that a battle of some up a whole new world of travel description took place on or near for ordinary folk, those with an the hill. Unfortunately, it’s eye for business opportunities impossible to say when. introduced amenities for visitors For the last thousand years, in general and the tourist trade in The Wrekin Hill has been the particular. © Allan Frost, 2017 DISCLAIMER: Every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. Neither Wellington Town Council nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors or omissions, nor do opinions expressed necessarily reflect the official view of either party. All articles and photographs are copyright of the author and must not be reproduced without prior permission and due credit being attributed.

12 Visit Wellington History Group at www.wellingtonhistorygroup.wordpress.com