Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Email: [email protected]

Ligurian Hills Across the Apennines to the sea

https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/ligurian-hills/

Route Summary

At a glance

7 nights, (6 walking days - full route) with just one at the end by the sea in Camogli.

How much walking?

Full days: 13-24km per day, 3¾-7 hrs walking Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 2¼-5 hrs (using taxis)

Max. Grade:

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Following the “Via del Sale” (Salt Road) from “Little Tuscany” or Oltrepo Pavese, this route travels across the foothills of the majestic Apennine chain in its westward extension from Pisa. This is bucolic , fiercely proud of local traditions and in particular local food and wine. The first two days walking in this region is through vineyards and woods, to get you in trim for the next four days of high ridge walking, scene of Hannibal’s march on Rome in 218 BC. From the historic valley town of Varzi, you will climb swiftly above the 1000m mark and will stay there for much of the next four days, before tumbling down to the sea at the picturesque fishing port/resort of Camogli, about 30km west of the Cinque Terre and, we think, far more authentic and Italian.

This is a route for the seasoned walker – the views are tremendous but the days are quite long, unless you take our shortening options. Shorter (5-6 night) options are available, but we recommend spending a night in at the start to take in the historic city with its ancient university, or the lovely monastery at Certosa di Pavia.

Route Highlights

● The picturesque countryside of the Oltrepo Pavese – “Little Tuscany” ● Walk in the footsteps of Hannibal and Frank Sinatra’s mother ● Local wines and sophisticated home cooking ● Varzi and its historic centre ● Crossing the Ligurian Apennines ● Your first glimpse of the blue Mediterranean ● The harbour and beach at Camogli

We Recommend

A day to visit nearby Pavia, and extra nights at the end to explore the Ligurian coast and the Cinque Terre.

Grading

Full days: 13-24km per day, 3¾-7 hrs walking Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 2¼-5 hrs (using taxis)

page 2/9 Walking on paths and tracks, several steep sections after leaving Varzi. Paths are well marked. Highest point on route: 1,650m.

Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 634m (425m - 1210m) per day.

Medium: CUSs 422m (250m - 900m) using shortening options on Days 2-6

GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.

Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.

When to go

The best months to walk: May, June, September

Other possible months: April, July, August, October

This is a route that is best walked after the snow has melted from the hills (still a possibility in May). May and June are lovely for flowers but June can start to be a little hot though height will ameliorate excessive temperatures. September can be busy, but October should be glorious, though with the risk of rain.

Please note: date ranges shown are for a 'normal' year. While Covid-19 restrictions remain, please contact us to discuss your plans and availability.

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive in

Arrive in Montalto Pavese and rest after your journey, explore the surrounds and certainly have a good dinner.

Day 2 - Montalto Pavese to

From your first night’s accommodation, enjoy expansive views as you dip down into the valley of the Ghiaia di Montalto and up again to the ridge. A lovely, if switch-backing, end to your day takes you off the ridge and through the lovely village of Fortunago, where you should linger, as this is one of the “Borghi più belli d'Italia”. (Medium-hard: 3¾hrs, 13½km, CUSs 600m).

Alternatives: Either miss the walk completely by hitching a lift with the luggage (ask your host), or ask your next host to collect you just after the 2hrs timing point.

Day 3 - Fortunago to Varzi

The day starts with a quiet stretch of asphalt before rejoining the ridge, with the last views of the Oltrepó. Leave the open at the “Cross on the col” and then track through beech woods along the ridge top of M. Bruno to the castle at Oramala, before descending to the old town of Varzi in the valley. Your next day’s walking rears up ahead of you! (Medium-hard: 4¾ hrs, 19km, CUSs 650m) Alternatives: Arrange a ride with the luggage courtesy of our excellent host, as far as the Cross. (Easy: 2¾ hrs, 10km, CUS 225m)

page 3/9 Day 4 - Varzi to Capanne di Cosola

Start with a sustained climb up to Castellaro (you can ride with the luggage along this section if you prefer), then up the valley of the Fosso. Climbing steeply up through beech woods, you reach the main ridge just before Monte Bogleglio. Then – a long and sometimes dramatic ridge walk, with a possible bagging of Monte Chiappo at the end before your next night’s excellent meal at the mountain lodge at Capanne di Cosola. (Hard: 7 hrs, 21 km, CUSs 1210m). Alternative: ride with the luggage to Castellaro, saving 2 hrs and 350m of ascent.

Day 5 - Capanne di Cosola to Due Ponti

This is the majestic day. 14 km of high walking, culminating in the meadows which surround Monte Cavalla and views for ever. From here you will be following the old road down (now abandoned except for foresters and walkers) for 6 km to the valley floor, to your comfortable accommodation at the hamlet of Due Ponti. ( Medium-hard: 6¾ hrs, 23km, CUSs 550m) Alternative - two easier shortening options (8½ km and 19½km), or ride all the way with the luggage.

Day 6 - Buffalora to Calcinara

This gorgeous walk seeks to do the impossible. After a short transfer, climb (gently) up to Monte Lavagnola; the climbing is then all but done and the rest of the walk consists of high contouring – maintaining the same level but with the most stupendous views of a much more cultured landscape than the day before – wooded valleys, small farms and villages. And you even get not one, but two, potential pit stops at good bar-restaurants. Your final walk into Calcinara will be rewarded by great friendliness, good food and drink – and almost no English! (Medium: 6 hrs, 19 km, 490m CUSs). Alternatives: Shorten to 2½ hrs or 4 hrs (with lifts).

Day 7 - Calcinara to Camogli (for one night)

A wonderful final day - you continue along the ridge eastwards, then southwards to the coast at Camogli. Again the views will never let you down, and the final mountain spur before the end, with the sea on each side, will be much photographed. Your hotels in Camogli are all welcoming, whatever grade you have opted for. ( Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 15 km, 430m CUSs). Alternatives: None except to ask Fausto’s uncle for a lift with the luggage.

page 4/9 Travel Information

ARRIVING BY AIR

The best airports are Genoa, (Linate, Malpensa and Bergamo), and Pisa. Flights also possible via Turin.

Land By: 16:00 (Pisa 14:30 and Milan by 15:00 so as not to miss supper) for public transport connections to .

Return flight earliest: 12:00 (Genoa), 13:00 (Pisa), 15:00 (Milan airports) for train connections from Camogli (see transfer information below).

Land by/earliest return times not applicable if using pre-booked taxi.

Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.

For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.

See “getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN

Nearest railway stations:

Start: Voghera Finish: Camogli

Sample journeys by rail:

TGV from Paris to Gare de Lyon to Marseille-St-Charles, and a Thello train onwards to Voghera. Alternatively go via Paris to Zurich HB and Milan Centrale – a quicker route but with one more change. ~10 hours

Coming back, consider travelling from Camogli to Paris via either Genoa and Turin or taking a longer route via Milan and Basel. Another choice might be to get to Milan Centrale for the Thello sleeper train to Paris.

We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.

ARRIVING BY CAR

Your car is best left with our hosts at Cella di Montalto (private parking) or Fortunago (quiet country road outside house). Parking in Varzi also possible (public car park, pay locally tbc). Returning, train to Voghera then taxi (pay

page 5/9 locally, see “Prices”).

Getting to the start of the walk

The first accommodation is normally in Montalto Pavese, though the 5-night version starts in Varzi. The last hotel is in Camogli. Transfer times and methods are suggested for the three Milan airports, Genoa and Pisa. For train arrival transfers see below.

Outwards: Bus/Train then either short taxi () or bus or taxi (Varzi) – Milan airports or Genoa 2½ hrs, Pisa 4 hrs, OR pre-bookable taxi transfer from airport to first hotel

Return: Train then Airport bus – Genoa airport 2 hrs, Milan airports 5 hours, Pisa airport 3 hrs

Transfers from train stations:

Outwards: From Voghera station pre-bookable taxi to Montalto Pavese, public bus or pre-bookable taxi to Varzi

Return: Camogli station is within walking distance from most hotels

For pre-bookable taxi costs, see “Prices”

Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.

Where You'll Stay

A wonderful range of local accommodation, including the highly stylish, the earnestly mountain and the friendly basic. All are committed to our ideals, and those before the coast all use locally-sourced (or home-grown) food and wine.

Night 1 Montalto Pavese – Cella di Montalto (dinner, B&B)

Real agriturismo in lovely position with eminent kitchen.

page 6/9 Night 2 Fortunago – Locanda del Molino (dinner, B&B)

Rustic and friendly pension in quiet hamlet.

Night 3 Varzi – Locanda Le Cicale (B&B)

Lively restaurant with rooms in the heart of Varzi (a small town on the edge of the hills), run by Greta and her family.

Night 4 Loc – Capanne di Cosola (dinner, B&B)

Mountain pass restaurant with classic regional cuisine and newly refurbished rooms. Small spa.

Night 5 Due Ponti – Hotel due Ponti (dinner, B&B)

Friendly family run old coaching inn with large gardens on banks of the Trebbia.

page 7/9 Night 6 Calcinara – Albergo Caprile (dinner, B&B)

Simple family albergo with strong local following and refurbished rooms with balcony.

Night 7 Camogli – Cenobio dei Dogi (B&B)

Grand old lady of Camogli hotels, overlooking the sea, with pool, terraces, private beach etc. 2 night min stay in July & August and at weekends in June.

Prices

Price: £1065

Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 5 evening meals, 6 picnics, all luggage transfers, and a shortening transfer at the start of the day from Varzi if required; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support. Locally levied tourist taxes are not included.

All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in early May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.

Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £140 Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £285 Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £60 per person Maximum party size: 10 (when using two different accommodations in Fortunago)

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Extra nights in Camogli hotels and/or other stops en route: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing) Upgrade hotels in Camogli: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing) Taxi Milan airports to first hotel: Malpensa £165 (1-3 pers.), £190(4-8); Linate £125 (1-3), £145 (4-8); Bergamo £210 (1-3), £240 (4-8) Taxi Genoa airport to first hotel: £165 (1-3 persons) £195 (4-8) Taxis from/back to Pisa airport: Contact On Foot Holidays Taxi from Voghera station to Montalto Pavese (pay locally) €40 (1-4 pers.), €50 (5-8); from Pavia station €65 (1-4), €75 (5-8). Voghera to Varzi €55 (1-4); €65 (5-8) Spa entry at Capanne di Cosola: €15 per person (pay locally) Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £10-£40 (per pack, location dependent) Guided walking day with Lucina Gioia - price depends on day(s) chosen, but budget for £155 per day per party

On Foot Holidays Telephone: +44 (0) 1722 322 652 Griffin House, Malthouse Lane, Email: [email protected] Salisbury, SP2 7RF, United Kingdom

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