Marci Wood WBWCD Lead Conservation Horticulturist  We are the 2nd driest state in the nation and the 1st highest water user per capita.  70% of water used is in the landscape (mainly turf)  Cacti take little to no water (mainly rain water)  Add beautiful texture and colorful blossoms and spines  You don’t have to have great soil to grow them!  Little to no maintenance

 Perfect Drainage is essential  Heavy clay and soils rich in organic matter are not recommended  Create raised beds and berm’s  Mix native soil with coarse sand, pea gravels, and things that give good drainage  Do not add organic matter  A berm is the easiest place to successfully grow a or succulent  It creates a microclimate by improving drainage, and giving all sun exposures (NSEW)  It also brings interest to a garden, drawing the eye to a different height and shape in the landscape  Miniature that are otherwise hidden are raised up and easily seen  If you are where the native soil is not the best, you can create islands of quality soil  When creating a berm use the least expensive material for the base layer  Choose large gravel about the size of an apple or slightly smaller. This will hold the soil in place  Base layer should be 6-8” or up to several feet (this will give you increased drainage, and hillsides will not erode as quickly  Next add a layer of topsoil (pick one with very little organic matter)  Soil should be only a few inches thick but deep enough to house the roots  A coarse small pea gravel can be added to amend soil (in berms)  (If you have clay soils mix 50% of your soil with 50% coarse sand)  Once berm is created it can be covered with a decorative layer of stone  The type you pick depends on taste, affordability, and availability  Mulch will also protect the soil from direct sun and evaporation loss  Add large rocks or boulders to create microclimates and interest

 Not all cacti will be hardy in our areas of Northern Utah  There are typically four groups of winter Hardy Cactus  1-Upright Chollas  2-Prickly Pear  3-Barrel, balls, and hedgehogs  4-Oddballs that don’t fit in the other categories but are still interesting, garden worthy plants

 These are Beautiful plants, but if you choose to use them be cautious.  Chollas have beautiful, but detachable spines  Respond well to and can become a large woody-like shrub  Most have yellow to greenish flowers  Very easy to grow  This variety has beautiful silver spines and will grow to 4-5’  Attractive throughout all seasons  Unique greenish yellow flowers bloom late spring

 Prickly Pear are the most widely distributed members of the cactus family  They are Native from Canada to Patagonia in Southern Argentina  Prickly pear consists of small to large pads or stems covered in many spines to nearly none  The only problem with prickly pear are there are too many choices!  Opuntia basilaris, polycantha,  Some of the easiest cactus to and phaecantha are commonly grow grown prickly pear in our region  Differ by pad size ,spininess, and  Prickly Pear generally grow along flower color, and fruit type the ground not getting more  Very Easily started by cutting than a couple feet high

 Make a mat of cactus pads that also respond well to pruning  Flower colors range from red to  Did you know??? pink, orange to yellow, white, The fruit are called Tunas and shades in between Immature pads are called Nopales  Spines may range from large to and are used in Mexican cooking barely there. But beware, they are more dangerous than they look. Opuntia have glochids (tiny hair-like spines) that can be very painful

Opuntia basilaris Opuntia basilaris ‘aurea’ Opuntia basilaris ‘Purple Desert’

Opuntia basilaris

 Many of these varieties are smaller specimen plants, and easy to grow!  Since many of these are miniatures they are also great to grow in containers  Create mounds to place these cacti on so they can be seen when used in the garden  Plants can live a few years to a few decades and add interest all year long

Gymnocalycium

 Members of this family include Grusonia, , , Pterocactus, and Crested Cacti  These are more rare, and hard to find  Many of these are not as hardy. They are more tender in the garden and may not live many years  Some of the are very showy and deserve a protected spot in your garden if you can get your hands on them

 Growing cactus from seed is a slower process than growing from cuttings but is amazing!  Seed is relatively cheap and can provide an abundance of plants  Growing plants from seed doesn’t have to be expensive. You can use simple household items such as egg cartons, paper cups, or containers with a hole punched in the bottom  As long as your container is clean and has adequate drainage holes you are set

 First moisten soil thoroughly, then fill containers and firmly press the mix into place till it is level  Evenly sprinkle seed over surface and place a very thin layer of soil over the seeds. Use a board or block to press seeds in so they have good soil contact  After the seeds are sown place containers in a tray that will hold water  This allows soil to absorb from the bottom up so seeds will not be disturbed (always place pots in a dry tray, then fill with water, and don’t let them sit in a pool of water)  *Soil mix should not be allowed to dry out on the surface for 4-6 weeks  Heat increases the rate of germination. As long as you have warmth, seeds will sprout at any time of year  Seeds will need strong light to germinate  Seed pots can also be covered with plastic to create a humid environment until seedlings have germinated  Once cacti are grown a bit larger place them in a sandy soil that won’t retain water like potting soil

 Growing from cuttings is probably the fastest, easiest way to get your cactus garden going  Cuttings from cacti such as prickly pear, and cholla root very quickly  Spring is the best time to take cuttings for planting  Let cuttings sit before planting. The open area where cut needs to scab over and be dry before planting, or cuttings will rot  How do you a cutting? Once dry, place it in the soil and it will root. That simple!  *If possible keep plants shaded from intense sun until there are signs of rooting*

 Cacti aren’t the friendliest plants to touch, being they have spines and glochids  The best way to remove a plant from the container is to gently squeeze the corners of to loosen it, and let gravity take it from there  *Also wearing gloves, preferably leather, can help prevent injury  The best way to handle cacti is with a pair of kitchen tongs , or forceps  There is another method that involves twisting a sheet of paper into a rope that can be used to handle a cactus  Having your planting hole ready will make your project go much smoother as well

 When planting be extra careful!  As with any plant, cacti will need more water when first planting and being established  Let soil dry out between watering, do not keep soil constantly moist  Throughout extra hot summer months plants may need water once a week to every two weeks  After establishment cacti will survive on rainfall!  Planting cactus in pots can have its  It’s just plain fun, especially for the advantage plant nerds out there  Marginally hardy cactus can be brought in for the winter  Cactus that aren’t hardy here can be moved outside to complement cold hardy cacti, then taken inside for winter  Pots can be places where children and animals don’t run into them  Of course you can get really creative designing a planter  You can use any unique container and control watering  Great for those with limited space  Attention can be brought to smaller plants that can otherwise be hidden

 Microclimates are great for marginally hardy plants you want to strive in the garden  Some cactus are not as hardy as others and need an area to stay protected from the elements  Boulders create a great microclimate. They give protection, provide warmth, and water that runs off them as a source for the plant

 Timing is a crucial factor  Cacti and their garden companion plants are thirsty in the spring when breaking dormancy. They need water to encourage growth during the warmer months  Cutting back water in the fall can help to slow growth and force dormancy, this will help plants if dramatic drops in temperature occur  They also have to be kept dry in the winter months while resting  Sharp drainage is important so roots do not sit in water and rot  Newly planted cacti and seedlings will require more water during establishment But don’t get carried away in the direction of overwatering When watering, give enough to encourage deep, healthy root systems to develop Let the surface of the soil dry completely before watering again Plant Indicator Plants that show signs of stress when water is needed

 Plants that require little to no water like cactus can make great companion plants.  Companion plants provide other texture, color, dimension and a more natural environment to a cactus garden  Provides blooms different times of the year, not just spring  Many companion plants are larger; such as specific trees, shrubs, and perennials, and can create microclimates for marginally hardy cacti

 Perennials/Wildflowers:  Yarrow, Hyssop, Columbine, Butterfly Weed, Chocolate Flower, Winecups, Bellflower, Red Valerian, Tickseed, Iceplant, Dianthus, Coral Canyon Twinspur, Buckwheats, Poppies, Blanketflower, Gaura, Red Hot Poker, Gayfeather, Catmint, Evening Primrose, African Sun Daisy, Penstemon, Salvia, Painted Daisy, Thyme, Speedwell, and Firechalice  Each 0f these plants brings a unique wonderful quality to the garden whether it be fragrance, texture, pollinators, vibrant color, and extra beauty  Grama grass, Silver bluestem, Feather Reed Grass, Fescues, Blue Oat Grass, Mexican Feather Grass, Switch Grass, Fountain Grass, Little Blue Stem, and Indian Grass  Grasses wont grow to their full size until mid summer, and won’t bloom until late summer to late fall. They let cacti take the show with their blossoms in spring, then show off their colors and beautiful seed heads in fall  Grasses are very low maintenance. They require a low pruning once in the spring or fall (whenever you prefer to cut them) and that’s it  Serviceberry, Manzanita, Chokeberry, Sagebrush var., Four-winged Salt bush, Barberry, Peashrub, Blue Mist Spirea, Mountain Mahogany, Fernbush, Desert Willow, Rabbitbrush, Brooms, Mormon Tea, Apache Plume, Oregon Grape Holly, Russian Sage, Ninebark, Chokecherry, Oaks, Buckthorns, Sumac, Currants, and Roses  When using Trees and Shrubs, limit the number of species used and use multiples of a few species types to keep a more natural look  An indicator plant will show signs of stress (wilting) when water is needed  Penstemon and Evening Primrose are excellent examples of indicator plants since they are very drought tolerant. Since they have thin leaves they will show signs of stress when water is needed  When these plants show stress, it is time to water all the plants in the cacti garden, including the cacti

 Your cacti will shrivel and dehydrate in the winter, your plants aren’t dead! Cacti grown in Cold climates have the ability to expand and contract  In spring cacti will swell up taking in water, and in fall they will shrink again when water is cut off  This cycle is necessary for their dormancy period  Still a cacti garden in the winter is still more beautiful than a perennial garden that has gone dormant Questions?  Textbooks: Cacti and Succulents for cold climates by Leo J. Chance  Nurseries: Intermountain Cactus (intermountaincactus.com), Cactus and Tropicals (mainly non cold hardy cactus), and Willard Bay (Willardbaygardens.com for utah natives, water-wise, and companion plants). You can find many of these perennials at other nurseries as well, just with a smaller selection