Fort Worth Fort

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHOTOGRAPHY PETER A. CALVIN A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT A PHOTOGRAPHIC TEXAS FORT WORTH FORT

FORT WORTH, TEXAS A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT PETER A. CALVIN TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS “where the West begins.” begins.” West the “where Fort Worth, Texas is one of the most cultured and Texas Worth, Fort and culture” effortlessly blend to create a special place... captures the many moods of this vibrant city where “cowboys moods of this vibrant city where captures the many cosmopolitan cities in the world. Photographer Peter A. Calvin Photographer Peter cosmopolitan cities in the world. FORT WORTH,TEXAS

A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior con- sent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.

First published in the United States of America by:

Twin Lights Publishers, Inc. 8 Hale Street Rockport, Massachusetts 01966 Telephone: (978) 546-7398 http://www.twinlightspub.com

ISBN: 1-885435-82-7 ISBN: 978-1-885435-82-8

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Leather and Line (opposite) This book is dedicated to my wife, Ana Rosa, whose Through the eyes of the photographer, horse love and support has made my work on this project, tack takes on qualities of beauty and grace. and all others, possible, and to our son, Peter Jose, (jacket front) whose contributions of hard work and good company as Beaumont Ranch at Grandview my assistant have been invaluable.

(jacket back) Flying Man with Briefcase in Burnett Park

Editorial researched and written by: Francesca and Duncan Yates www.freelancewriters.com

Book design by: SYP Design & Production, Inc. www.sypdesign.com

Printed in China INTRODUCTION

Where the West Begins

You can never take the “Wild West” out of Fort Worth, even though it is one of the most cultured and cosmopolitan cities in America. Fort Worth was a new military post in 1849, one of ten along the Trinity River. By 1853, the military moved further west, and the first settlers took over Fort Worth. Soon after the Civil War, this “Wild West” town got an economic shot in the arm as cattle drovers started moving Texas longhorns right through Fort Worth on their way to beef markets in Kansas. Fort Worth quickly became the last important stop on the famous Chisholm Trail, the frontier’s version of an interstate highway. When the railroad came to town years later, the city was on its way to becoming the second largest livestock market in the country. When oil was struck in nearby Spindletop in 1901, life got even better.

Cowboys and Culture

Downtown Fort Worth has been recharged and revitalized by Sundance Square, a world-class cultural and entertainment center, as well as the Historic Stockyards District, offering everything from boutiques and championship rodeos to cattle drives, and Billy Bob’s, the largest “honky-tonk” in the world. In this extraordinary photographic portrait, photographer and Texas native Peter A. Calvin captures the many faces of Fort Worth at work and at play, admiring a Picasso at the Modern Art Museum, listening to Mozart at Bass Performance Hall, or cheering on a bull rider at the rodeo. Page after page of evocative images will show you the heart and soul of this great American city of cowboys and culture...a special place “where the West begins.”

Beaumont Ranch Long-horn steer find relief from the blazing Texas sun under a lone, shady tree, while a llama enjoys the heat, at Beaumont Ranch. The ranch is one of the stops along the historic Chisholm Trail.

4 5 Flying Man with Briefcase Fort Worth Public Market American sculptor Jonathan Borofsky is Stained glass and ornate details adorn the known for his larger-than-life interpreta- entrance tower of this architecturally rich tions of the ordinary, including this 50-foot building. The Public Market was Fort structure in Fort Worth’s Burnett Park. Worth’s original farmers market from Flying Man with Briefcase focuses on man 1930–1941, and is currently undergoing as a corporate slave. renovation.

6 7 The Tower (opposite) Tile Style (above) After a tornado heavily damaged the origi- Fort Worth reflects its Spanish heritage in nal thirty-five-story Bank One Tower, it the architecture of many of its modern was extensively renovated and transformed buildings. In the 1920’s and ‘30’s, Spanish into luxury condominiums and penthouses, Colonial Revival was a very popular style with retail and commercial space on the with its extensive use of colorful, ceramic lower floors, and renamed “The Tower”. tiles.

9 Renaissance Revival (left, right, and opposite) An historic landmark, the Flatiron Building Renaissance Revival architecture with its was inspired by the 1902 Flatiron Building fretwork, gargoyles, and pediments. This in New York City. Ironically, William city’s first skyscraper was heavily criticized Jenkins Worth, the man for whom Fort with fears that it would cast a shadow over Worth is named, is buried at the New York Fort Worth’s entire downtown area. Fears building’s base. Elaborately detailed inside long sinced dispelled, the building is cur- and out, the Flatiron personifies rently being renovated for residential use.

10 11 Fort Worth Convention Center (top and Sundance Square (opposite) bottom) It was called Hell’s Half Acre when the Newly expanded and updated, the spacious Worth Flyers basketball team in the NBA notorious Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Fort Worth Convention Center covers four- Development League. The 11,200-seat Kid frequented the area. Today, its 21st- teen blocks downtown. In addition to meet- facility also hosts concerts and other century entertainment, shopping, dining, ings, conferences and conventions, the cen- notable events. art galleries and museums coincide amidst ter’s multi-purpose arena is home to Fort historic, 19th-century buildings. Worth Brahmas ice hockey team and the

12 Amon Carter Museum Statuary Postmodern Extraordinaire (top) American Art Treasures (bottom) The Amon Carter Museum holds one of depicting the old West by Frederick Born in a one-room log cabin, Amon Carter Opened in 1961, the art museum was the country’s leading collections of Remington and Charles M. Russell, the became a successful businessman and Fort designed by noted architect Philip Johnson, American art, from the 1820’s through most comprehensive collection of these Worth’s most avid promoter and philan- pioneer of the Postmodernist movement. 20th-century Modernists and 21st-century artists’ famous works in the world. thropist. A lover of American art, he fund- This bold glass and steel style defined Contemporary painters, sculptors and pho- ed the museum to make fine art accessible American skylines for fifty years, empha- tographers. Especially noteworthy are over to everyone. sizing form and function. one-hundred paintings and sculptures

14 15 Quiet Courtyard Historic First Methodist Church Ground-breaking ceremonies for the First Once a one-room, wooden building in Methodist Church’s new sanctuary were 1874, the First United Methodist Church held on October 29, 1929, the infamous day has steadily grown in size and stature in the of the Stock Market crash. A testimony to Fort Worth community. Since 1930, several faith and determination, the church opened additions have accommodated its ever- its doors one year later. increasing congregation.

16 17 St. Patrick’s Cathedral Historic Texas Landmark This historic, stone cathedral was designed glass on other windows and entry ways. The stunning St. Patrick’s Cathedral was in the popular Gothic Revival style with Today, this downtown church serves a built in 1888 and is the oldest, continuously twin towers topped by lofty towers, how- congregation of 4,000. used church building in Fort Worth. It is ever, the towers were never built. The largely intact architecturally and has recent- church is magnificently detailed with a ly gone through several years of restoration. large stained-glass rose above the main entrance and pointed arches with leaded

18 19 M. E. Sadler Hall (top and bottom) Texas Christian University Built in 1959, M. E. Sadler Hall serves as students enrolled in seven schools and Texas Christian University was founded in $200,000 to rebuild their campus in Fort Texas Christian University’s administration colleges, including humanities, divinity, 1873 as a frontier school named AddRan Worth. The university accepted the city’s building. It is an outstanding example of business, fine arts, communications, and College in Waco, Texas. It was recognized offer, and the present campus continues to the work of distinguished architects, science and engineering. as Texas Christian University in 1902. grow and prosper in southwest Fort Worth. Sanguinet and Staats, designers of many of When a fire destroyed its main building Fort Worth’s significant buildings. The eight years later, the city of Forth Worth University has nearly nine-thousand offered the university fifty acres of land and

20 21 Japanese Garden Serenity Fort Worth Botanic Gardens The beautiful Japanese Garden at Fort The oldest in Texas, the Botanic Gardens Worth Botanic Gardens is a sanctuary for create a flowing landscape of magnificent the senses. In 1970, Fort Worth’s sister city, shade trees, flowering shrubs, and native Nagaoka, Japan, donated many plants and and exotic plants punctuated with water- materials to create garden features that falls, ponds, reflecting pools and whimsical include a teahouse, Zen meditation garden, sculptures such as this leaping frog at the pagoda, and moon-viewing deck. Gardens’ entrance.

22 23 Japanese Garden Pavilion (top) Koi Pond (bottom) Zen Garden (opposite) The pavilion area of the Japanese Garden is Ponds throughout the Japanese Garden are Used historically by Zen Buddhists as a the setting for seasonal festivals including filled with brightly colored koi, a popular focus for meditation, a Zen garden contains the annual spring Butterflies in the Garden. variety of the common carp fish developed carefully positioned stones that represent Thousands of butterflies take flight creat- by Japanese breeders. Koi have become tranquil islands in a sea that seems to ripple ing a spectacular display. increasingly popular in American water with the thoughtful strokes of finely raked gardens. sand.

24 25 Tarrant County Courthouse (above) Duty Memorial (opposite) This magnificent Beaux Arts courthouse Veterans Memorial Park is dedicated to sits high on a bluff overlooking the Trinity those who served at Fort Worth’s Camp River. At a height of 194 feet, a copper Bowie and to veterans of all wars. The dome crowns the 1895 structure. Short of Duty memorial statue honors American its hundredth birthday, the grand building soldiers who gave their lives liberating was painstakingly renovated to reflect its Belgium during World War I. original beauty.

26 Nancy Lee and Perry R. Bass Trumpeting Angel (bottom) Opening Night (opposite) Performance Hall (top) Flanking the entrance of the performance Over 2,000 people can be seated for per- Home to the Fort Worth Symphony Orches- hall, two 48-foot-tall angels herald a greet- formances beneath the hand-painted Great tra, the Texas Ballet Theater, and the Fort ing to arriving guests. These graceful, lime- Dome at the Founders Concert Theater. Worth Opera, this highly acclaimed per- stone statues, carved by Marton Varo, have Fort Worth has the third largest cultural formance venue has been dubbed “one of come to symbolize the rich, cultural treas- district in America. the top ten opera houses in the world” by ures of the Fort Worth-Dallas metropolitan Travel and Leisure Magazine. area.

28 Geodesic Dome Casa Mañana Theatre Inspired by the innovative designs of Casa Mañana is the largest performing arts R. Buckminster Fuller, architect Henry organization in North Texas and has enter- Kaiser created the stunning, geodesic- tained audiences for forty years with an domed Casa Mañana Theatre, the first exciting repertoire of dramas, comedies, permanent theater in America designed concerts, Broadway musicals, and touring for musicals-in-the-round. shows.

30 31 Rose Marine Theater Fort Worth Public Library Opened in 1918 as a movie house, this The main branch of the public library star- historic theater began showing movies in ted out completely underground in 1978, Spanish in the 1940s. Today, the theater with Lamar Street traffic rumbling above. hosts public events, as well as live perform- When the roof began leaking, this beautiful ances of the Latin Arts Association, Fort two-story addition was added. Worth’s only Hispanic theater company.

32 33 Kimbell Art Museum (top and bottom) Art in Design The Kimbell Art Museum opened to rave and contemporaries, Kimbell has many One of America’s great buildings, Kimbell reviews in 1972, thanks in great part to the treasures, including an impressive collec- Art Museum’s design consists of a connec- award-winning architecture of Louis I. tion of Asian art. It has a well-earned repu- ted series of long, barrel-vaulted exhibit Khan. Of his design, Khan said, “The tation as America’s best small museum. halls that incorporate natural light. In this building feels…that I have nothing to do with intimate setting, visitors experience the full it…that some other hand did it.” From the impact and subtleties of the artist’s brush or works of Caravaggio to Monet to Mondrian the sculptor’s tools.

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Floating Islands of Art (pages 36–37) Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth Vortex (opposite) The flat-roofed pavilions of the new (above) Soaring high above the museum’s roofline Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth rise Chartered in 1892, “The Modern” is one of is a massive, 230-ton sculpture by Richard dramatically out of a shimmering pond. the oldest museums in the western United Serra. Vortex was manufactured in This profound design, by Japanese archi- States. Dedicated to postwar art, its impres- Germany, the only place in the world that tect Tadao Ando, reflects the clean, sive collection includes 2,600 paintings, could handle the immense sheets of steel. unadorned elements of modern art itself. sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs, videotapes, and slides.

38 Fort Worth Nature and Science Museum Prehistoric Worlds (top) Knee High to a Dinosaur (bottom) The Lone Star Dinosaur exhibit at the Fort digs. Together they have uncovered exciting Dino Dig is a popular interactive exhibit One average size human is barely as tall as Worth Nature and Science Museum is an finds of dinosaur bones and fossils and are where children become paleontologists and the knee joint of a gigantic Cretaceous ever-changing display, thanks to the field responsible for identifying five new species. dig for dinosaur bones. The oldest chil- dinosaur that once roamed an ancient sea work of the paleontologists on staff. For the dren’s museum in Texas, this noted facility near present-day Fort Worth. The Lone past seventeen years, the museum has has an IMAX Dome theater, a planetarium, Star Dinosaur exhibit always thrills visitors joined forces with the faculty at Southern and hundreds of fun exhibits. with the latest, prehistoric finds. Methodist University to conduct regional

40 41 Bureau of Engraving and Printing Visitors’ Center Exhibits (top) Commemorative Bill (bottom, left) Hot Off the Presses (bottom, right) The Visitors’ Center at the Bureau of Two floors of interactive exhibits show the A press operator shows a commemorative During a tour of the Western Currency Engraving and Printing offers guided tours history of currency and the complex ten-dollar bill during a special printing Facility, the process of printing billions of of the money-making process with special process of printing money. By the end of demonstration on an antique spider press. dollars can be viewed from an enclosed demonstrations of antique printing presses, the tour, you may want to become a Tourists learn fascinating facts about the walkway above the money-making an engraver’s bench, and what becomes notaphilist– a collector of paper money. money-making process on this popular machines. of mutilated bills that are taken out of cir- tour. culation.

42 43 Cattle Baron Lifestyle (above) Historic Quality Hill (opposite, top) Ball-Eddleman-McFarland House (opposite, bottom) This historic, 18-room mansion was built At the turn of the 20th century, The Ball- The house is a rare treasure in Fort Worth in 1903 during the golden era of the cattle Eddleman-McFarland House was built in because many of this type did not survive barons. A rare example of Georgian Revi- an exclusive neighborhood of wealthy cattle the passage of time. It is also unique val architecture in the southwest, the barons. It is Fort Worth’s most outstanding because only three families have lived here mansion is restored with many original example of the Queen Anne Victorian style. over several decades, and the original furnishings. design was barely altered.

44 45 19th-Century Craftsmanship (left and right) Fine Dining (opposite) The exquisite craftsmanship of the Ball- The hardwood floors feature an elegant Period furnishings enhance the rich pat- Eddleman-McFarland House reflects the maple-leaf pattern with contrasting light terns of woodworking on the ceiling, walls spectacular features of the Queen Anne- and dark in-laid woods. Every surface of and floors of this elegant dining room. A style. Elaborate oak and mahogany wood- this house offers a unique opportunity for built-in corner hutch displays silverware work details every room, including this artistry. and glassware used by prominent Fort entrance foyer staircase and wainscoting. Worth families.

46 47 Confederate Colors (top) Period Style (bottom) Texas Civil War Museum The Texas Civil War Museum shows its A variety of Civil War uniforms and Opened in 2006, this new Fort Worth colors with over sixty carefully preserved firearms are on display at the Texas Civil museum brings together one of the largest flags, many of which were flown in Texas War Museum. In addition to the military private collections of Civil War artifacts in regiments that fought for the Confederacy. clothing, there is wonderful collection of North America and the collection of the The flag collection, alone, is valued at $3 textiles and clothing, including over two- Texas Division of the United Daughters million. hundred Victorian-era dresses. of the Confederacy.

48 49 Buffalo Soldiers (opposite) Flying Saucer Draught Emporium (top) Bikers in Sundance Square (bottom) The National Cowboys of Color Museum Conveniently located in Sundance Square, Good food and live music are served up and Hall of Fame pays tribute to the brav- downtown Fort Worth’s shopping and regularly at 8.0 in Sundance Square, a fun ery of the famous Buffalo Soldiers units entertainment center, Flying Saucer is a place to enjoy with a date or to meet with which were comprised of African Ameri- favorite with beer lovers. Over one-hun- a group of motorcycle buddies. The square cans. Other exhibits honor Hispanics, dred beers are on tap, and the atmosphere has something for everyone’s taste. European and Native-Americans’ efforts. is pure fun.

51 Music at The Ranch (left) Peters Brothers Hats (right) Haltom’s Jewelers Clock (opposite) Fort Worth’s favorite country-western In business for nearly 100 years, Peters When historic Fort Worth retailer Haltom’s music station is The Ranch, broadcasting Brothers’ custom-made hats became Jewelers agreed to relocate to Sundance great county tunes from Sundance Square. famous when Fort Worth promoter and Square, their famous street clock had to go The Ranch is “The Sound of Fort Worth”. philanthropist Amon Carter began giving with them. Now the clock keeps time on them as gifts to celebrities. the corner of Third and Main.

Sundance Stroll (pages 54–55) Reata at Sundance Square (opposite) Chisholm Trail Mural (top and bottom) At dusk, Sundance Square beckons people Reata stands tall in Sundance Square with Created by trompe l’oeil artist Richard to stroll through this hip entertainment four floors of festivities. Top-notch chefs Haas, this mural celebrates Fort Worth’s district. They can pick their pleasures from prepare legendary Western cuisine with a historical role as a cattle town on the boutiques, shops, galleries, restaurants, cosmopolitan twist, while two trendy bars Chisholm Trail which stretched from San hotels, and clubs. and a rooftop view of the downtown lights Antonio to the beef markets in Kansas.The make for a perfect evening. mural is located on the side of the historic Jett Building in Sundance Square.

56 57 White Elephant Saloon (opposite) Billy Bob’s Texas (top and bottom) An authentic, wild west saloon in the Opened in 1981, Billy Bob’s quickly set a games, a “Wall of Fame” with celebrity Historic Stockyards District, White new record as the largest honky-tonk in the handprints, a general store, and its own Elephant is one of the best 100 bars in world. Live C&W bands and a big dance indoor rodeo arena for professional bull America and lives up to its fame with live floor make it hard to resist grabbing your riding. C&W music, dancing, and a huge collec- partner and doing the Texas two-step. This tion of cowboy hats and elephants. world-famous club covers three acres with dozens of bar stations, a restaurant, arcade

59 World’s Largest “Honky-Tonk” (left) Ride ‘em Cowboy (right) Billiards at Billy Bob’s Billy Bob’s building has seen a lot of action The action is always hot at Billy Bob’s, but Whether it’s a game of eight ball or a Willie since 1910. It was an open-air cattle barn, it’s even wilder on Friday and Saturday Nelson concert, Billy Bob’s has the kind of a World War II airplane factory, and a nights in the honky-tonk’s own rodeo arena. entertainment that always draws a crowd. department store. Its twenty-acre parking Cowboys face formidable challengers as Over fifteen million people have spent a lot accommodates large crowds for big- they put on a fantastic show. memorable day or night here since this name C&W shows. honky-tonk opened in 1981.

60 61 Calf Roping at Cowtown Bucking Bronco Each weekend, Stockyards Championship Every second is an eternity while hanging Rodeo comes to Cowtown Coliseum, onto the back of a bucking bronco, but thrilling crowds with calf roping, bull rid- these cowboys know how to take the fall, ing, team roping, barrel racing and other brush themselves off, and get ready for the exciting, edge-of-your-seat thrills. next event.

62 63 Ready to Ride (top) Stockyards Championship Rodeo (bottom) Out of the Gate A spirited bronco almost jumps the gate, Bull riding as a rodeo event was introduced Rodeo history has been made time and time American presidents, famed opera singer while cowboys attempt to bring him back at Cowtown Coliseum in 1934 before eager again in the hallowed arena of Cowtown Enrico Caruso, Elvis Presley, the Russian into the stall, just one example of the many crowds. Riders must stay on the bull for a Coliseum. It was the site of the world’s first Ballet, Bob Hope and Doris Day. surprises during a typical night at Stock- full eight seconds to stay in the competi- indoor rodeo in 1918 and the world’s first yards Championship Rodeo. tion. Often, the bull doesn’t cooperate. live radio broadcast of a rodeo in 1923. It was also the setting of historic non-rodeo appearances by Comanche braves, two

64 65 Signage with a Kick (left) A Texas Legend (right and opposite) Signage featuring a unique neon boot with M. L. Leddy’s Boots and Saddlery boasts an art deco flair, marks one of Fort Worth’s four-generations of expert leather crafts- most prestigious and historic businesses. In menship. These experienced artisans addition to a fantastic ready-made selection custom-make each boot and saddle from of fine western clothing, Leddy’s also pro- start to finish using top-grade materials. vides custom saddles and boots. The exceptional beauty and quality of their work has made Leddy’s world-famous.

66 67 Cowboy Chic (above and opposite) M. L. Leddy’s Boots and Saddlery sells a boots made of chartreuse lizard and purple variety of western styles from ranch-hand stingray. A separate room features the real- tough to sizzling styles for red-carpet cowboy hard tackle, the works you need to celebrities. In its high-end boutique, you’ll run a ranch. find the couture creations of designers such as Ermenegildo Zegna, pure beaver cowboy hats, emerald-studded belt buckles and

68 Beaumont Ranch at Grandview (above) Leather, Lines, and Hands (opposite) One of the best dude ranches in Texas is team-building retreat. As the staff will say, The hands of this Beaumont ranch cowboy just thirty-five miles from Fort Worth. “Just tell us what part of the Old West you were photographed just before heading off Beaumont is a working cattle ranch with a want to experience, and we’ll do our best to to work the cattle. 40,000- acre spread and its own 1880’s deliver it.” western town, Chisholm Fork. It’s great for a romantic getaway, a western-style wedding, a family vacation or a corporate

70 71 Beaumont Cowboys Western Style Beaumont ranch hands are hardworking The tack room at the Beaumont Ranch is and friendly. From branding to bird watch- well-stocked and ready for riders. The ing, the ranch offers many activities that ranch offers great trail rides and more, allow visitors to create their own personal- such as picnics, fishing, ranch rodeos and ized adventure. authentic chuck wagon breakfasts.

72 73 Gun Fights at Chisholm Fork Chisholm Trail Beaumont Ranch’s own little Wild West The historic Chisholm Trail stretched from dle, plus sharp shooting practice with real town is a great setting for living history San Antonio to several Kansas towns, at six shooters, relay roping, cutting cattle events, such as gun fights, cattle drives different times, and ran right through the competition, a hot pepper eating contest, a and exhibitions of the Seventh Calvary middle of Beaumont Ranch. Today, visitors Texas cookout and a special “Cowboy Idol” reenactments. can celebrate this historic trail by signing competition. up for the ranch’s “Cowboy Up” cattle drive which includes lots of time in the sad-

74 75 Log Cabin Village (opposite) Pickard Cabin (above) A stylish scarecrow wards off birds in an One of the Village’s eight restored log herb garden of an authentic 19th-century homes, Pickard Cabin, features period log cabin. Inside and out, interpreters furniture and period performers dressed in demonstrate vital skills that Texan pioneers 19th-century costume. Visitors can watch needed to survive, including weaving and them weave on a shot loom just like in fron- knitting, candle making, corn milling and tier days. nail making.

77 Shaw Cabin and Gristmill Living History This 1854 cabin showcases the impressive use corn meal since then. Relocated to the Stroll down the lanes of this quaint village craftsmanship of a master builder of fron- Log Cabin Village, the house was originally of log cabins in Fort Worth’s Forest Park, tier log homes. Tom Shaw was well-known in an extreme frontier area of Texas. and step back in time to the Texas frontier. for his carpentry skills and helped many The village staff lovingly recreates different other homesteaders build their log homes. tools and skills required in 19th-century The 19th-century working grist mill was daily life. added in 1970 and has produced ready-to-

78 79 Texas and Southwest Cattle Raiser’s Texas Rangers Museum (top and bottom) The Texas and Southwest Cattle Raisers authority with detective skills and knowl- Dioramas, artifacts and interactive exhibits collection with brands used by Nolan Ryan, Museum features an exhibit on the leg- edge of the cattle industry. In 2002 alone, set the stage for the lively history of the Stephen F. Austin, and the King Ranch. endary Texas Rangers who were appointed the Texas Rangers helped recover over $4 Texas frontier from the perspective of cattle The Ken Spain Saddle Collection and the by the Texas and Southwest Cattle Raisers million worth of livestock and property. barons, cowboys, ranchers, ranch hands Joe Russell Spur Collection are favorites Association to catch cattle rustlers. These and rustlers. Authentic artifacts include the as well. specially commissioned inspectors proved world’s largest documented branding iron to be invaluable as they combined legal

80 81 National Cowgirl Museum and Hall Saddle Up (bottom) High Desert Princess (opposite) of Fame (top) Hand-carved panels on the museum’s Sculptor Mehl Lawson captures the This Fort Worth museum documents the façade depict thematic scenes, including strength and independence of the Texan lives of women and their contributions to that of a young cowgirl getting ready to cowgirl, and cowgirls everywhere, in an the American West from the mid-1800s to ride. Richard Haas’ trompe l’oeil mural on exqusite life-size, bronze sculpture that the present. Over 5,000 artifacts and 2,500 the side of the building is of five cowgirls graces the lawn of the Cowgirl Museum. photographs tell many inspiring stories of seemingly riding at full gallop out of the courageous women. building.

82 Hall of Fame (above) Sacagawea (opposite) The women inducted into the National A Shoshone Indian woman, Sacagawea was Cowgirl Hall of Fame were pioneers, the famous interpreter and guide for the entertainers, artists, writers, tribal leaders, Lewis and Clark expedition into the newly suffragettes, modern ranchers and rodeo acquired Louisiana Purchase Territories. cowgirls—each making their mark as part She helped secure safe passage through of a great American legacy. treacherous terrain.

84 85 Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame (opposite) Sterquell Wagon Collection (top) Period Portraiture (bottom) The new Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame has Hungry cowboys gather around a campfire A well-dressed woman poses for her photo- set up house in an old barn at the next to the chuck wagon in one of the graph in front of a camera on a tripod. The Stockyards that once housed horses and exhibits of the world’s largest lifestyle exhibit features an antique wagon that once mules. It pays tribute to Texas’ top cow- wagon collections. The exhibit features belonged to Levi Hand, a landscape and boys and cowgirls with photographs and more than sixty antique wagons, carriages portrait photographer from New Jersey in memorabilia of their lives. and sleighs. the early 1900’s.

87 Texas and Pacific Railway Office Building (opposite and above) An outstanding example of the 1920’s details of the lobby are uncovered, thanks Zigzag Moderne architecture, this twelve- to a recent renovation. Like many of the story structure was part of the massive city’s grand, historic buildings, this old downtown complex built by Texas and office building is being converted into Pacific Railroad, which also included a residential space. warehouse and terminal. The elaborate

89 Intermodal Transportation Center History in Clay (top and bottom) Striking clay murals adorn the walls of the Murals by artist Paula Blincoe Collins landscape. A special salute to the past, the new Intermodal Transportation Center in depict the lifestyle and history of the area’s building’s four-faced clock tower rises downtown Fort Worth. Five murals framed African-American businesses from post- seven stories, helping to keep this busy city in a long, brick wall set the stage for these Civil War to 1940. The rough-hewed style on time. scenes from the neighborhood’s past. enhances its historical perspective. The transportation center was designed to blend the city’s past with the newer downtown

90 91 Will Rogers Memorial Center (above and opposite) The Will Rogers Memorial Center hosts to all who aspired to be a cowboy. Part every event from rodeos to rock and roll. Its Cherokee, Will Rogers once remarked art deco tile mural at the top lights up at about his heritage as an American: “My sunset. An impressive statue of Will Rogers folks didn’t come over on the Mayflower, on his beloved horse, Soapsuds, pays trib- but a few met the boat.” ute to this American icon who was a hero

92 Cowtown Coliseum Fort Worth Stockyards Historic Cowtown Coliseum was built in In Fort Worth’s heyday as a booming cattle 1907 as the “largest and most elegant live- town, it took a strong latch to keep the gates stock exhibition building in America.” It securely closed when the cattle pens were is now synonymous with great rodeos and filled with Texas long-horn steer. Each had Pawnee Bill’s Wild West Show, a recreation an average weight of 1800 to 2000 pounds. of the original one from 1909.

94 95 Cattle Pens Stockyard Blooms Cattle pens at the Historic Fort Worth The history of this old cattle town is kept Stockyards are quiet testimony to the excit- alive today in this national historic district, ing era when the Wild West was booming. the site of the only daily cattle drive in Once the railroad came to town, Fort America. Visitors can watch real drovers Worth exploded with growth. herd real cattle at Stockyards Station.

96 97 White Elephant Saloon The Cross Eyed Moose The epitome of a great, western saloon, this The Cross Eyed Moose is a chic, Western 100-year-old watering hole provides a boutique with fine, one-of-a-kind western glimpse of the Wild West’s past. Every year furniture, well-suited for cattle barons and on February 8th, the White Elephant stages oil tycoons. Unique accent pieces round out an historical reenactment of the last gun- these upscale finds. fight in Fort Worth that occured in front of this famous saloon.

98 99 Puffy the Steam Train (above) Stockyards Station (opposite) When the vintage steam train, Puffy, Stockyards Station features modern shops arrives at Stockyards Station from with 19th-century storefronts, filled with Grapevine, twenty-one miles away, the everything Western. Other attractions engine reverses direction on a turnabout to include galleries, museums, and a ride on take passengers south for a ten-mile trek the Tarantula Train, the only operational along the famous Chisholm Trail. steam train in Texas.

100 Chisholm Trail Marker (above) Bill Pickett (opposite) After the Civil War, cattle drives from A former slave, Bill Pickett became the South Texas passed through Fort Worth on most famous African-American rodeo their way to Abilene, Wichita and other performer in history. The sculpture at Central Kansas beef markets. When the Cowtown Coliseum depicts him wrestling railroad arrived and stock yards were built, a steer, a rodeo event he invented in 1903. Fort Worth boomed.

102 103 The Stockyards Museum The Mountain Man At the museum in the historic Livestock Renowned Amercian artist Frederic Exchange Building, cast iron skilletts and Remington created an incredibly detailed other heavy household items are a testa- bronze sculpture in 1912 to honor a van- ment to Western American lifestyle during ished breed of frontiersmen. Full-size a more rugged era. replicas, such as this, are sold by Fort Worth retailer Cross-Eyed Moose.

104 105 Head First (above) Stockyards Hotel (opposite) In addition to its fantastic cowboy and This historic 1907 Texas landmark lodged cowgirl museums and historic preservation cattle barons and their families, cowboys, areas, Forth Worth celebrates its Cowtown businessmen and foreign dignitaries. Today heritage on every possible public surface, guests can choose from Victorian, Cowboy, like the side of this building near the Mountain Man, and Native American- Stockyards. themed rooms.

106 History in Bloom Fort Worth Livestock Exchange Banks of flowers bloom on the grounds In 1902 this large, adobe-style building was with activity, it was the nerve center of a of the historic Fort Worth Livestock erected as a center for cattle traders. It soon massive system that traded as many as five Exchange. Today it houses the museum of became known as “the Wall Street of the million animals per year—cattle, sheep, the North Fort Worth Historical Society West.” Livestock prices around the world hogs, horses and mules. and headquarters of Lone Star Airlines. were posted here. The Exchange housed a bank, post office, five railroad offices and three telegraph offices. Always bustling

108 109 The Wedding Chapel Old Time Music Young flower girls in fancy gowns with Musicians strumming guitars and fiddles ribbons in their hair get their instructions bring back that old time music for tourists before they walk down the aisle at this little as they browse the unique shops, galleries wedding chapel and photography studio at and food concessions at Stockyard Station. Stockyard Station.

110 111 Chuckie Vintage Flying Museum Manufactured by Boeing, Chuckie, the Force Squadron in England and the Fort Worth’s Vintage Flying Museum legendary B-17 Flying Fortress at Fort Fifteenth Squadron in Italy. Built in 1944, features an array of vintage aircraft such Worth’s Vintage Flying Museum, made Chuckie is unique because it still flies and as wartime trainers, bi-planes, and home- history in the air during World War II with participates in air shows. made tri-planes. It is an impressive collec- its unrelenting, strategic bombing missions tion of aviation history. of German industrial targets. These bombers were flown by the Eighth Air

112 113 Plano Balloon Festival (top and opposite) All Fired Up (bottom) Every September, for three days, the skies When the sun goes down, the Plano over Plano, Texas are filled with colorful Balloon Festival shifts into another gear. hot air balloons. The festival attracts over Nighttime balloon flights create their own 100,000 visitors who come to watch seven- spectacle, as if dozens of bonfires suddenly ty-five balloons take flight. On the ground, rise together into the dark, star-studded visitors enjoy live bands, festivities and skies. funnel cakes, a festival favorite.

114 115 The Richard Petty Driving Experience (above, below, and opposite) The Richard Petty Driving Experience is of driving a race car at speeds up to 150 one of several driving schools at the Texas miles per hour. The Petty Experience is a Motor Speedway. The schools plan their highly acclaimed motor sports entertain- classes between major races, and there is ment company and provides an exciting seldom an empty seat. Racing fans from all once-in-a-lifetime thrill for aspiring race walks of life sign up to experience the thrill car drivers.

116 117 Texas Motor Speedway (top) Stremme Power (bottom) Need for Speed The Texas Motor Speedway’s 1.5-mile David Stremme, 2002 Rookie of the Year, Racing fans all over the world can easily track is shaped in a quad-oval design, very became the first Busch Series driver in 2003 identify this No. 43 Cheerios/Betty similar to the speedways in Atlanta and to take top rookie honors even though he Crocker Dodge, one of the cars driven by Charlotte. Qualifying rounds on the didn’t compete in the full season. In 2006, Richard Petty’s powerhouse racing team. NASCAR circuit in 2004 and 2005 made he placed in the top 20 four times, his best Petty made racing history as a seven-time it the fastest track of its type. ever. NASCAR champion.

118 119 Famous Chicken Fort Worth Cats In 2005, the Fort Worth Cats had their The Cats, Fort Worth’s minor league base- mojo working as they won the minor league ball team, was a founding member of the championship again, for the first time since Texas League in 1888, with many winning 1948, and repeated their lucky streak in seasons and several championship years. 2006. “Famous Chicken” travels from ball- Today’s modern facility was built in 2001 park to ballpark putting on his show. He on top of the old 1926 stadium, with home got his start as “The San Diego Chicken.” plate remaining in the exact same place.

120 121 Baseball Fever (top and bottom) Cats Hero Named one of the top 10 independent watching games on the old La Grave Signed by the Cats in 2006, pitcher Danny parks in the nation by Baseball America, baseball diamond. Enthusiastic fans can Valentin gives autographs for eager, young the new La Grave Field stadium represents look forward to cheering their team in fans after a home game at La Grave a return of minor league baseball to Fort forty-eight home games next season. Stadium. He came from back-to-back Worth for the first time since 1964. 10-win seasons for Edinburg in the Central Leading this exciting renaissance is the League in 2003 and 2004. Cats’ new owner Carl Bell, who grew up

122 123 Fort Worth Zoo (above and opposite) Fort Worth Zoo is one of four American the Fort Worth Zoo held a grand re-open- zoos that has successfully bred lions—two ing in 1992 and introduced two, new habi- were born in 2004 and a litter of four made tats, World of Primates and Asian Falls. headlines in 2005. The nationally ranked Annual zoo attendance soared to one mil- zoo supports over twenty conservation lion visitors. Every year, the number of projects around the world. After some hard visitors continues to rise as the zoo takes its times and successful private fundraising, place as one of the country’s top zoos.

124 Turtles and Much More Maternal Instinct Turtles, elephants, tigers, gorillas, giraffes, the country’s largest reptile collections, and A flamingo nuzzles its egg in poignant snakes, parrots, lions, antelopes, meerkats, one of only four zoos with active breeding symbolism of the cycle of life, fertility and and predatory birds—the Fort Worth Zoo programs for Asian elephants and African birth at this nationally acclaimed zoo. The exhibits 435 species in total. This award- lions. Fort Worth Zoo has come a long way since winning zoo distinguishes itself with com- it was founded in 1909 with 10 animals. prehensive exhibits of all four Great Apes It is the oldest continuous zoo site in the species, three of five rhino species, one of state of Texas.

126 127 Photograph by Ana Rosa Calvin

Peter A. Calvin Peter A. Calvin studied photography at the Butler Institute of American Art, Ohio University (BFA), and Texas A&M University –Commerce (MFA). After spending several years in Mexico in the late 1980’s, he returned to Dallas, where he lives with his wife, Ana Rosa, and their son, Peter Jose. In addition to his personal work, Peter shoots for selected editorial and commercial clients, and is an Ad Interim Instructor of Art in the photography program at Texas A&M University–Commerce. His work has been published in Europe, Canada, Mexico, and the United States. His fine art work is represented by the Afterimage Gallery in Dallas, Texas.

128 PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHOTOGRAPHY PETER A. CALVIN A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT A PHOTOGRAPHIC TEXAS FORT WORTH FORT