20 EPICURE THE AGE Tuesday, April 17, 2012

CHEFS

reproducible. I was sitting up at Chef, writer and Ronnie di Stasio’s [winery in the Yarra Valley], above the hills and culinary adventurer there were a bunch of other chefs there. We’d eaten a dinner, after Anthony Bourdain which Tetsuya Wakuda took the left- overs and made a polpette and threw delivers his verdict together a pasta meal. on Australian dining We asked some of the to Olivia Riordan. world’s top chefs how they perceive Australia’s food scene. What compels you to visit Australia? Since I first came, it has always had Brett Graham, chef-owner of the a really vibrant food, dining and chef Ledbury, London, and expat Australian culture. It has always been very The perception [in the UK] is that supportive of chefs and interested in food in Australia is fresh and what they’re doing. seasonal. Australian restaurants have made massive improvements in the What is the perception of the past 10 years and, in my experience, Australian dining scene abroad? the top restaurants are not only the The Sydney and Melbourne dining best in Australia, but some of the scene is held in very high regard by best in the world. What’s great about chefs and knowledgeable diners. The the Australian food scene is the qual- chefs — who’ve usually been intro- ity in the produce and cooking, all duced to Australia through the way from small cafes to top res- invitations to various food and wine taurants — something I think festivals — are generally really sometimes is lacking in Britain. Two impressed and are, by now, person- chefs who really stand out are ally connected to Australia. We like [Quay’s] Peter Gilmore and [Attica’s] the chefs here. We like how they Ben Shewry. They set the standard cook. We consider them friends. for fine-dining food in Australia and it’s a very exciting time there. How do we rank in the world? The cooking — at least in Sydney Massimo Bottura, Osteria Francescana, and Melbourne — is at a very high Modena, Italy technical level. Chefs and cooks are Australia is a land of wonders, in its motivated, proud and the community raw materials, and its products, it tends to support and promote that reveals itself as an exotic country kind of excellence, which is hugely whose influences range widely from important. Every time I come to China to Japan, from Latin America Australia, the food and the restaur- to Italy. Fine dining is just fine, with ants only get better and better. a handful of old and new classics created by people like my friends What lets Australian dining down? Tetsuya Wakuda, Mark Best, Peter The biggest weaknesses are Australia Gilmore. The outsiders are really restrictive, at times, laws concerning interesting too, like New York’s Dave health and safety of ingredients, and Chang, who opened Momofuku Australia’s great distance from the Seiobo in Sydney in October. His is rest of the fine-dining universe. [The] an incredible cuisine that rocks with fact is — and I’ll paraphrase an Asian-Aussie-oriented flavours and a Australian chef — influence comes confidential precision worthy of a double from elsewhere, and in most cases, Michelin star. Also, the ‘‘All Black’’, somebody, somewhere else thought Ben Shewry, at Attica, whose heart- of it first. This is surely no crime and What are the strengths of cooking in Throughout your travels, has the a jaded diner, respond much more felt vegetable-oriented cuisine is full is entirely due to Australia’s general Australia? What do we do right? Australian dining scene changed? positively to. of delicacy and intimacy. The fun — isolation. What happens in Sydney One of the things I noticed about A few years ago, there was a stark not the faint-hearted — should not and Melbourne tends to have Sydney, in particular, these days is difference [between Sydney and What attracts you to Melbourne? miss Dainty Sichuan, a strong, rad- happened a little earlier in Paris or how busy the restaurants are. Busier Melbourne]. Sydney seemed to be a I have good friends in Melbourne: ical, spicy canteen (in South Yarra) Brooklyn. I’m not being a dick about than New York and Tokyo, generally little flashier, a little more slick. And Paul Wilson, Donovan Cooke. I look making the hottest Sichuan food in this. Any chef will tell you the same. speaking. People are less jaded, more Melbourne, by comparison, seemed forward to reconnecting with friends the world. You can certainly eat as well in excited than in New York, and that to have a more casual laid-back atti- and there are a couple restaurants Sydney or Melbourne as New York or level of interest is a good thing for tude, Brooklyn-style. But the Sydney that are just sentimental favourites. Atul Kochhar, chef-owner, Benares San Francisco. But, with a few chefs, for restaurants and for dining dining scene has changed a lot in the [Bourdain was seen recently at Restaurant, London exceptions, you are less likely to get in general. The ingredients seem to last few years — the trend towards Dainty Sichuan and Circa.] Australia’s food scene is rich, vibrant, the next big thing. If that even be getting better and better and chefs more casual, rustic dining is exciting and inspiring purely due to matters — and I don’t see that it like Matt Moran, Dan Hunter and fantastic. Personally, I think it has Best meal in Melbourne? its borderless cuisine attitude. We should. many others are really concerning changed for the better. Or at least it The best meal I have had in ought to learn so much from its themselves with sourcing. has moved in the direction that I, as Melbourne was ridiculous; it’s not chefs and food producers.

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NATAGE G020 Tuesday, April 17, 2012 THE AGE EPICURE 21 Witness to a revolution

MICHEL Roux snr, giant of British Roux is married to an Australian cuisine, remembers the day an whose family lives in Tasmania and he unknown Heston Blumenthal wandered has visited Australia regularly for down the road in the village of Bray to 30 years. Back then, he says, while Roux’s Waterside Inn to tell him he there were important chefs such as was opening a gastropub close by. Damien Pignolet, Neil Perry — still ‘‘He said, ‘I’m opening down there one of the best, he believes — Tony a couple of hundred yards.’ There was Bilson, Greg and Peter Doyle and a pub, which was pretty grotty. He Stephanie Alexander, there was little in says he’s going to turn it into a gastro- the way of special ingredients. ‘‘You pub. I said, ‘If you need anything, call didn’t have any salmon — proper on me.’ And he did on occasion. salmon — cheese was unknown, [as ‘‘His food was classic food, a little were] fresh herbs, truffles. bit French, modern. Then he decided ‘‘You go to a farmers’ market now, to move towards scientific food. I had or you to a supermarket, and it’s got no bloody clue what was going to bugger-all to do with what it was happen.’’ 30 years ago. The evolution is not an That was 14 years ago and since evolution, it is a revolution. then Bray has become more famous ‘‘To say there was nothing would for Blumenthal’s Fat Duck than for the have been a lie, but to say that nothing Roux family’s Waterside Inn, which has changed would be a lie, too. But has held three Michelin stars for it’s mainly due to the availability of 27 years. Roux, whose favourite ingredients. You grow them now. Look cuisine is Italian for its pristine ingredi- at the truffle — you are farming ents and home style, and whose truffles in Australia. Bloody good. They cooking is classic French, nevertheless are fantastic. I love the marron and has huge admiration for Blumenthal’s lobster, seafood, fish.’’ achievement. Roux believes freedom and top ‘‘Heston is not a madman. Heston ingredients define Australia’s cooking has got a palate, he can taste food,’’ and are its gift to world cuisine. But Roux says from his home in there is a downside to culinary Switzerland. ‘‘Before being a great freedom. Things can get ‘‘a bit crazy’’. chef you’ve got to be a great gourmet, ‘‘The only thing is that it’s been so and he is. quick that sometimes people get ‘‘His food is not busy on the plate. carried away and the food can His food is very clean. His flavours are sometimes be better to look at than to (Clockwise from left) Anthony Bourdain; Brett Graham (right) with fellow chefs Heston Blumenthal and Rene Redzepi; Massimo Bottura; Atul unique and it’s an experience. You go eat. That’s my opinion and, again, I’m Kochhar; Trinh Diem Vy; Stevie Parle. PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES, BARRY J. HOLMES/THE OBSERVER, DANIEL MAHON for an experience. You go there, you not saying everywhere. I’m just saying study the food, your mind’s blown and young chefs should be careful about Corey Lee, Benu, San Francisco Thierry Marx, Mandarin Oriental, Paris lia. I left in the mid-’70s and every you’re fine for a year or two. You’re the way they cook. Less is better than I think the perception falls into two The Australian food scene is very time I come back I’m more amazed. not going to eat Heston Blumenthal more. distinct categories: chefs who have dynamic and open-minded. I think I have the most fabulous food in res- food every week.’’ ‘‘Sometimes young people don’t visited Australia and chefs who the quality of food is exceptional and taurants and the coffee culture in It’s not all perfection — the fam- know better and you get confusion. haven’t. Unfortunately, we don’t hear the country has extraordinary pro- Melbourne is like no other city. You ous bacon-and-egg ice-cream Roux You should never put something delic- too much about the Australian food duce. Australians aren’t ego-driven can recognise Australian cuisine, or dismisses as ‘‘funny’’, and he doesn’t ate with something strong and I’ve scene outside of a few restaurants. and I find this uncomplicated atti- an Australian cooking — the food is mean side-splitting, but Blumenthal is seen that on a couple of occasions in But those who have visited, like tude allows them to do things we open-minded, skilful, not weighed someone who has contributed real Sydney. It can be sublime and it can myself, all rave about and are excited wouldn’t imagine possible overseas. down by traditions or rules. I don’t ‘‘bricks and mortar’’ to the develop- be so over-the-top that it is a shame.’’ by Australia’s chefs and restaurants, like the term fusion food (usually it ment of world cuisine, Roux says. KIRSTEN LAWSON dining audience and quality of Trinh Diem Vy, Morning Glory, is confusion food) but Australian products. Hoi An, Vietnam cooks, often from other traditions, I love the diversity and vast selection understand how to take the bounty Stevie Parle, Dock Kitchen, London of cuisines available in both Mel- of Australian produce and create a My recent trip to Australia confirmed bourne and Sydney. The taste and distinctive cuisine. All those Asian my views that the quality of hospital- standard are great. The one thing I vegetables, spices, herbs and flavours ity there is excellent. I love the found surprising was the lack of are combined into your cooking — relaxed but professional service and greens served with the dishes, even you seem to put those things the simple, sunny food that you find though the markets have a great together better than anybody else. everywhere. When I asked the food selection of the freshest greens from writer and chef Christine Manfield almost anywhere in the world. Aus- Margaret Xu Yuan, Yin Yang, what she thought Australian food tralia is a culinary nation that keeps Hong Kong was, she talked about cooking like a inspiring me. I love Australian food. Australian magpie, picking up dishes from chefs really know how to use Asian different cultures and being inspired Jennifer McLagan, food writer and ingredients. Australian chefs are very by ingredients. Christine has recently author, Toronto, and expat Australian spoilt. If I lived there, I wouldn’t be written a great book on Indian Most Canadians have no idea about bothered having a farm — you have cooking, but the mixing of cultures Australian food. They see Australia such an abundance of good produce. to make up Australian cuisine is her as a country of the great outdoors — Your food has progressed into what real expertise. I tried to do the same sun, surf and weird animals — and I’d call ‘‘world food’’, like world with my fish plate (inspired by my many still have the view that music, which I think is the direction Melbourne visit). It had elements Australian cuisine is anything coo- the world is heading in. But I think of India, south-east Asia ked on the barbecue. But those who that Australians do it best. It all and China but tasted, I hoped, truly have visited are impressed. I love means a very cosmopolitan, contem- Michel Roux, a leader in British gastronomy, applauds Australia’s culinary freedom. Australian. eating out when I return to Austra- porary cuisine on the plate.

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