Bike Sports and Relaxation Tours and Cultural Guide

12G1439_COPERTINA INGLESE 31/01/13 08.28 Pagina 1

Bike Sports and relaxation Bike Sports and relaxation www.cicloviadeilaghi.it/sporterelaxinbici Tours and cultural guide

25 historical routes: Province of Como from competitive climb time trials www.provincia.como.it to relaxation for amateurs www.lakecomo.it to relaxation for amateurs

Province of Lecco www.provincia.lecco.it www.lakecomo.it

Municipality of Cannobio www.cannobio.net www.procannobio.net

Municipality of Brissago www.brissago.ch www.ascona-locarno.com

ITALIA~SVIZZERA ITALIE~SUISSE ITALIEN~SCHWEIZ Le opportunità non hanno confini

Repubblica e Cantone Ticino

Unione Europea Fondo Europeo di Sviluppo Regionale

FREE COPY www.cicloviadeilaghi.it/sporterelaxinbici Bike Sports and relaxation itineraries Itineraries in the province of Como and Lecco

Table 01

. Editorial

Tourism should not be considered a stand alone economic activity, but rather as a driver for conservation and development of the entire territory and its resources. Cycle tourism is a “soft” form of tourism which assures respect for and economic contribution to the host territory. Thanks to the “Italian – Swiss 2007-2013” European territorial cooperation programme, the Provinces of Como and Lecco, along with the municipalities of Cannobio (Verbania Province) and Brissago (Canton Ticino, Switzerland), developed the Bike Sports & Relaxation project. The initiative focuses on two main user types: general and specialist cycle tourists. The main need of the former is physical activity, competitive and non-competitive, while the latter seek milder physical activities, each utilizing the cultural and nature resources of the territory. This guide offers three different route types: • mountain time trials – serious climb routes with timed results in real time; • sports itineraries – difficult climbs without timing; • relaxation itineraries – medium-low difficulty routes suited to those who want to enjoy a pleasant excursion with less physical effort.

The fascination of the challenge, the lake, the mountains, and the historic villas and monuments … all are within the range of a bike ride.

Department for Tourism Province of Como Department for Tourism Province of Lecco Giandomenico Albertella, Mayor of Cannobio Roberto Ponti, Mayor of Brissago

3 IndexIndex

INTRODUCTION: Experience history ...... 6 CANNOBIO MUNICIPALITY...... 76 CA01. Cannobio – Sant’agata Mountain THE ITINERARIES ...... 8 time trial...... 78 CA0101. History / cultural itinerary ...... 80 COMO PROVINCE...... 12 CA0102. Nature itinerary...... 84 CO01. Bellagio - Ghisallo Mountain Time Trial ... 14 CA0103. History / cultural itinerary ...... 88 CO0101. Bellagio - Lezzeno Cultural Itinerary ...... 16 CO0102. Nature Itinerary: Bellagio - Lezzeno - BRISSAGO MUNICIPALITY ...... 92 Nesso ...... 20 BS01. Sports itinerary Brissago - Mergugno ...... 94 CO0103. Religious Itinerary Magreglio - Barni - BS02. Sports itinerary Brissago - Cortaccio ...... 95 Lasnigo...... 24 BS0101. Religious itinerary Brissago - CO02. Nesso - Colma di Sormano Ronco Sopra Ascona ...... 96 Mountain Time Trial ...... 28 BS0102. Cultural itinerary Brissago - CO0201-A. Artistic / religious itinerary Nesso - Ronco Sopra Ascona ...... 102 Pognana Lario - Torno...... 30 CO0201-B. Artistic / religious itinerary Sormano - Lasnigo - Rezzago...... 34 TOURIST INFORMATION ...... 106 CO0202. History itinerary Sormano - Barni - Asso .. 38 Tourist information offices ...... 106 CO0203. Art itinerary Sormano - Caglio ...... 42 Links to official web sites ...... 107 CO03. Onno - Valbrona Mountain time trial ...... 46 “Bike” accomodation ...... 108 CO0301. Religious itinerary Valbrona - Lasnigo - Canzo ...... 48 Como Province...... 109 CO0302. Gastronomy itinerary Valbrona - Lecco Province ...... 110 Asso - Barni...... 52 CO0303. Nature itinerary Valbrona - Cannobio Municipality ...... 111 Asso - Canzo...... 56 Brissago Municipality ...... 111

LECCO PROVINCE ...... 60 LC01. llabio - Piani Resinelli Mountain time trial...... 62 LC0101. Religious itinerary Pasturo - Barzio - Cremeno...... 64 LC0102. Cultural itinerary Introbio - Barzio...... 68 LC0103. Nature itinerary Barzio - Introbio - Primaluna - Cortenova...... 72

4 5 IntroductionIntroduction Experience history

ycling is loved by thousands because it tells stories: also a stage in the Tour of Italy in the 1967, 1976 and Cstories of men and women, of places, of feats, of hard 2006 editions. Some of the greatest competitors in work. The areas described in this guide have a great deal cycling made their names on this climb, including to tell: indeed their landscapes, where flat zones suddenly Girardengo, Coppi, Bartali, Gimondi and Moser. turn into steep climbs, have been the theatre of epic, The symbol of the Ghisallo is the Sanctuary at the top exciting feats throughout the history of cycling. of the climb which hosts a portrait of the Blessed Virgin One might tell of the infamous, prohibitive Muro di Mary, called the Madonna del Ghisallo, proclaimed the Sormano climb which was included in 1960 in the Tour of patron saint of cyclists by Pope Pius XII in 1949. This Lombardy route to make the race more selective and important event is recalled by a moving memory. A which, for three years, tested the resistance of many riders year before, on 13 October 1948, a group of cyclists set who were forced to dismount and finish the climb while off from Rome, not in a race but a spiritual journey: pushing their cycles. they were torchbearers carrying a bronze votive torch, The famous Ghisallo climb is another site in cycling lit at Castelgandolfo by Pius XII with the mission of history, a regular inclusion on the Tour of Lombardy, and depositing the torch at the Sanctuary near Como. The torch reached Ghisallo on 17 October: the last bearers were Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali. Placed in the Bicycle Museum chapel, the torch has burnt for over sixty years in honour of the “Celestial patron of Italian and all cyclists world wide.” Since then, each year, many visitors from all over Italy come to celebrate the cyclists’ Madonna. Meetings and non-competitive rides are also periodically organised: the most important events include the Cyclists’ Easter, National Cycle Day, the International Ghisallo Rose, and World Children’s Cycle Day. A Museum of Cycling was recently inaugurated next to the Sanctuary, offering a rich archive and a collection of mementoes including the jerseys and cycles of the greatest cycling champions. There are many historic links with the cycling world around Lecco and along Lake Maggiore: the climb up to the Piani Resinelli in Lecco Province and the Sant’Agata climb at Cannobio have often been the scene of provincial and regional level cycling races.

6 7 The itineraries

o keep the history of these places alive and offer the ever The “Relaxing itineraries” are designed as alternatives to the Tgrowing numbers of cycling fans a chance to test mountain time trials (they all start close to the start or finish themselves, five mountain time trial routes were designed, point of the mountain time trial of reference), to allow visitors each with a real time route timing system which can be viewed to enjoy genuine themed routes, where physical activity blends on permanent panels installed at the finish of each race. with knowledge of points of natural and cultural interest in the Three are in Como Province, in the Lariano Triangle, one in area. Lecco Province at the entrance to the Valsassina and one in Cannobio Municipality on the banks of Lake Maggiore. 10 RELAXING ITINERARIES IN COMO PROVINCE The five selected routes are not prohibitively difficult but are challenging: the climbs, with average gradients between 5% 3 RELAXING ITINERARIES IN LECCO PROVINCE and 8% with peaks over 12% are accessible to specialist cyclists. As well as offering users interesting technical and 3 RELAXING ITINERARIES sporting aspects, the mountain time trials have a further IN CANNOBIO MUNICIPALITY attraction with natural features and landscapes which host them: indeed, they all offer spectacular views of mountains 2 RELAXING ITINERARIES IN BRISSAGO MUNICIPALITY and lakes.

3 MOUNTAIN TIME TRIALS IN COMO PROVINCE • Bellagio - Ghisallo • Nesso - Colma di Sormano • Onno - Valbrona

1 MOUNTAIN TIME TRIAL IN LECCO PROVINCE • Ballabio - Piani Resinelli

1 MOUNTAIN TIME TRIAL IN CANNOBIO MUNICIPALITY • Cannobio - Sant’Agata

For the specialist cycle-tourists, two sports routes have been prepared at Brissago which, unlike the five indicated above, do not having timing systems.

2 SPORTS ITINERARIES IN BRISSAGO MUNICIPALITY • Brissago - Mergugno • Brissago - Cortaccio Each itinerary has a unique code that you'll find in every project communication tools (roadbooks, georeferenced files, Finally, for all those cycle tourists interested in a relaxing – and photo gallery, touristic and cultural guide). less tiring – day out on their cycles, the discovery of the I.e.: BS01 identifies the Brissago mountain time trial, BS0101 cultural and natural features of the area have certainly not identifies the 01 relaxing itinerary near the climb time trial; been forgotten. BS0102 identifies 02 relaxing itinerary, etc.).

8 9 ItinerariesItineraries General Plan

10 11 Como province Mountain time trials Relaxing itineraries

he three mountain time trials proposed in Como Province lie yond the mere sport, of being part of cycling history. They have been Twithin the Lariano Triangle, a mountainous peninsula wedged be- ridden by some cycling legends – one for all, Fausto Coppi – and for tween the two branches of the Lario. several years the Bellagio - Ghisallo section was included in the Tour The particular geography of the Lariano Triangle, with alternating flat of Italy circuit and is a stage in the Tour of Lombardy today. areas and mountain zones which create significant differences in alti- The historic-sporting significance dictated the inclusion of the Bellagio tude, is ideal to set out mountain sporting time trial routes which se- - Ghisallo climb among the mountain time trial itineraries chosen; the riously test the fitness of cyclists who seek to prove themselves on other two time trials, Nesso - Colma di Sormano and Onno - Valbrona, steep climbs. Some of the itineraries have the additional value, be- although less important to cycling history, are still very interesting from the sporting viewpoint (they are both stages in regional and provincial cycle races) and from that of nature. It is important to remember that the Colma di Sormano, along the Nesso itinerary, is very well known to cycling fans, as it is the finished of the famous “Muro di Sormano” climb: The Muro (Wall) was included in the Tour of Lombardy route in 1960, when the patron Vin- cenzo Torriani, wanting to make the race more selective, decided to add this new climb, which is short but with very steep gradients, after the traditional passage of the Ghisallo, before the finish at Como. The desired effect was beyond expectations: the climb was so hard that many pros had to get off and push. The Muro di Sormano was on the route for three editions, until 1962: that year Ercole Baldini set the record for the climb at 9’ 24”. Thereafter this overly extreme climb was excluded, partly because the race was “falsified” by the pushing help some riders received from spectators. For several years the Muro road fell into disuse, but it was recently re-opened and valorised.

The relaxing itineraries in Como Province are all in the Lariano Tri- angle and include a series of villages which bear good witness to the mixed nature, lakeside and mountain, of the territory. This peculiarity of the Lariano Triangle offers the opportunity to create diverse typologies of itinerary, from flat land with lake views to more difficult mountain routes. As indicated in the introduction, the routes all start close to the start or finish of the mountain time trials of reference:

• Bellagio - Ghisallo • Nesso - Colma di Sormano • Onno - Valbrona

Madonna del Ghisallo, Monument to the Cyclist

12 13 Como province CO01. Bellagio - Ghisallo Mountain time trial

Characteristics and route The Ghisallo climb is 11 km long, starting from an altitude of 202 m at Bellagio rising to 756 m at the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghisallo, with a difference in altitude of 584 m. The climbing sections have fairly constant gradients with an average slightly below 9% and peaks of up to 11%; including the flat section, the average gradient is some 5,3%. The road, in perfect conditions, runs almost entirely through woods and offers breathtaking glimpses of Lake Como and of the Grigne mountains; there are many switchback bends along the final section. The best pros mange to finish the route in less than 20 minutes (Paolo Bettini made it in 19’ 30” on the 2005 Tour of Lombardy). From the junction on State Road 583, to the exit from Bellagio, follow the signs for Asso - Ghisallo and, from Bellagio, after about 1.5 km the real climb starts. The first is the most difficult section: from Mulini del Perlo (km 2.8) there is a climb of some 3 km with an average gradient of 9% and a maximum point of 11%. A sign indicates that there are 8 switchback bends which prove helpful in regaining your breath. At km 6.0, at Guello, the road offers a long easier section: the second section, of some 3 km, is fairly flat (which is why the average gradient of the climb is not so impressive). At km 8.5 you reach Civenna which offers beautiful views of the Lecco

CO01CO01 - HILL - CRONOSCALATA CLIMB BELLAGIO BELLAGIO-GHISALLO GHISALLO branch, in particular over the pre-Alpine massifs which surround it. At km 9.0 the last climbing section begins, for 1.6 km with an aver- 757.5 m age gradient of 8,5%: another series of switchback bends can help 700 m cyclists during this steep climb. The last tiring slope at 9,7% finishes

600 m on the piazza of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghisallo, patron saint of cyclists. 500 m The chapel hoists important mementoes and memories donated by

Elevation the greatest champions on two wheels. The Museum of Cycling is 400 m next door, with a rich historical archive, the jerseys and cycles of the 600 m most famous champions (Bartali, Coppi, Moser, etc.). The Belvedere Romeo offers a superb panorama of the Lecco branch 205.2 m and the Grigne. 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 8 km 10 km

Distance 11.0859 km

Start location: Bellagio (metri 202 s.l.m.) Finish location: Passo del Ghisallo (metri 756) Length: 11 km Difference in altitude: 584 m Average gradient: 5,3% Maximum gradient: 11%

14 15 Como province CO0101. Bellagio - Lezzeno Cultural itinerary

AMONG HISTORIC LAKESIDE VILLAS AND THEIR PRECIOUS PARKS

THEME Lake Como is famed for its’ historic villas. Many stand on the West shore of the Comacine branch, but in the Lariano Triangle it is also possible to wander among the most sumptuous palaces and gardens in the zone, mostly in the Bellagio area. The itinerary touches the principal villas in the territory to surround visitors with the noble splendours of times gone by . Most of these villas, genuine works of art, have an added value given the many famous historical, literary and artistic personages who chose them as residences while staying at the Lake: poems and images immortalise the place, making it part of history.

FIRST STAGE: BELLAGIO The tour is almost entirely concentrated in the Bellagio zone. Starting from the car park in viale Vitali - SS583 heading west, turn right into Via Carcano until you reach the “lungolago,” the road running along the lakeshore. Near the ferry bridge, turn right and take Via Parco Martiri della Libertà uphill to the intersection with Via Valassina. Just to the north you’ll come to the magnificent Villa Serbelloni, a jewel of ancient history which extends onto the Bellagio promontory where, according to tradition, Pliny the young owned a villa called Tragoedia. CO0101CO0101 - SOGNARE - DREAMING FRA LE AMONG VILLE STORICHE HISTORICAL DEL VILLASLAGO E ANDI LORO THEIR PREZIOSI PARKS PARCHI The original plan of the villa is from the fourteenth century, and it

294.2 m was built for the heir of the Marquis Stanga. In 1788 it passed on to 290 m

280 m

270 m

260 m

250 m

Elevation 240 m

230 m

220 m

210 m 205.7 m 0 km 5 km 20 km 15 km 10 km

Distance 21.0586 km

Ride length: 21 km

Connection with time trial: CO01 Bellagio - Ghisallo View of Bellagio

16 17 Como province CO0101. Bellagio - Lezzeno Cultural itinerary

Count Alessandro Serbelloni who dedicated himself heart and soul to the Kingdom of Italy and friend of Napoleon who assigned him the it, mainly concentrating on realisation of the immense external park, title of Duke of Lodi. The park around the villa was realised between where he had carriage roads, avenues and paths built for a total of 1811 and 1815 by Canonica and Villoresi: the seemingly natural dis- some 18 km. After the death of the Count in 1826, the villa changed tribution of the vegetation was the fruit of long studies to increase hands many times and was converted into a hotel which, in 1959, the optical illusion of backgrounds and distances. In front of the Kaf- was left by Princess Ella Walker to the Rockefeller Foundation. Many feehaus, an unusual Moorish style small pavilion, there is a statue of illustrious guests stayed at the villa over the years: Emperor Maximil- Dante and Beatrice, by Comolli, which inspired Liszt to write the ian I, Leonardo da Vinci, Lodovico il Moro, Bianca Sforza, Cardinal “Sonata fantasia after reading Dante”. The illustrious guests at this villa Borromeo, Silvio Pellico, Emperor Francis I, Queen Victoria, etc. Today included: Napoleon, Eugene Beauharnais, Franz Josef and Ferdinand the villa hosts conferences. The gardens are however open to the pub- of Austria, Umberto and Margherita di Savoia. The current owner is lic, with an intricate succession of paths surrounded by vegetation: the Duke Gallarati Scotti who opens the park to visitors from April to The gardens are open from mid March till mid November, closed on October, every day from 9:30 to 18:30. Monday. They can only be visited with a guided tour that starts at Continue towards Como; keep to the right and take Via Giovanni XXIII 11.00 and at 15.30. Turning into Via Valassina and heading south which leads to the San Giovanni district. Cross Via Rienza and then for about a kilometre, you again come to the SS583, and on the left Via dei Pescatori to reach the lake and the Villa Trotti-Bentivoglio, and you’ll find Villa Giulia. It is currently privately owned and thus visible in particular the magnificent and somewhat oriental style park. The only from outside. The villa, the park and the immense avenue of building’s history begins in 1752 when a house built in 1600 was trees, offer a marvellous view over the two branches of the Lake. It transformed by the Marquis Ludovico Trotti into a sumptuous villa was built in the late 1700’s in neo-classical style on the orders of complemented by an Italian garden. The following century a descen- Count Pietro Venini who dedicated it to his wife and gave it her name. dent of the family, returning from a journey to the Orient, modified In the 1800’s the park was enriched with statues, fountains, exotic the façade to a Moorish style and created a tropical aquatic garden plants and the main avenue was adorned with cypresses and magno- with ornamental plants of Oriental provenance (Japan, China and lias, while another grand avenue was designed for the rear of the Korea). The Villa’s grounds are adjacent to the garden of another villa, surrounded by vines and lemon trees. After the Counts Venini splendid building: Villa Trivulzio. Built to the desires of Count Paolo the villa was owned by Leopold I, King of Belgium, and then by the Taverna at the end of the seventeenth century, it was soon let to Prince of Flanders; today it is owned by the Bonecchi family. Francesco Melzi d’Eril who lived their while Villa Melzi was built close At the intersection with the SS583, take it to the west, and pass the by. In the eighteenth century, the property was sold to the noble Poldi starting point, and continue to the intersection with Via Carcano; turn Pezzoli family who extended it with the addition of two lateral wings right to reach Villa Melzi. It was built between 1808 and 1813 to a connected to the main building by galleries. Distinguished by its’ neo- design by the architect Giocondo Albertolli for Francesco Melzi d’Eril, classical architectural lines, the villa has a central body and two wings Deputy President of the Cisalpine Republic, then Grand Chancellor of which extend towards the large English style park. At the far end of the park the neo-gothic mausoleum designed for Giacomo Poldi Pez- zoli by Carlo Maciachini at the end of the eighteenth century is of particular interest. Finally, the Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Loppia is characteristic: known since the year 845, the building has three naves with a bulging transept and a semicircular apse part of which is not original, attributable to the XIIth century.

SECOND STAGE: LEZZENO After leaving the town Bellagio and going about 8 km on the S.S. 583 towards Como, you come to Lezzeno where you follow the signs for the municipal nursing home; take the flight of steps leading to the driveway of Villa Citterio: built in the 18th and 19th century, it currently houses the municipal nursing home with its grounds open to the public, perfect for a well-earned rest. Villa Giulia

18 19 Como province CO0102. Bellagio - Lezzeno - Nesso Nature itinerary

MARVELLOUS GLIMPSES OF THE WATER; BETWEEN TRICKS OF LIGHT AND ANCIENT LEGENDS

THEME This itinerary leads to some of the most characteristic natural sites on the Western shore of the Lariano Triangle, which, further to offering. marvellous views of the Lake and the villages on the opposite shore, has a peculiar disposition of the land with rocky spurs dropping straight into the Lake which take on enchanting lights and colours in reflections from the water. The charm of the sites, whose majesty is almost frightening, contributed to the ancient local legends.

FIRST STAGE: LEZZENO Starting from the Car park in viale Vitali at Bellagio, take State Road 583 towards Lezzeno. After some 3 km you reach the gorge at Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) overlooked by the Dolomitic limestone cliffs of Mount Nuvolone. This place, with its’ gloomy, mysterious aspect, is thought to be the site of exoteric encounters and witchery. Remember that the Ponte del Diavolo is the end of the Via Regia, an ancient mule track (some sections are from the Roman period) distinguished by bridges and steps which follows the Eastern bank of the Comacine branch of the Lake, from Como to Bellagio. Continuing on the road, for a stretch of some 3 km, it is possible to view the steep cliffs falling CO0102CO0102 - -SCENIC SCORCI WATERSCENOGRAFICI VIEWS BETWEENSULL’ACQUA LIGHTS TRA GIOCHI AND EANCIENT ANTICHE LEGENDSLEGGENDE into the Lake at Sassi Gros- 294.2 m galli, where, at the surface 290 m of the Lake, the Grotta dei 280 m Bulberi opening is found, 270 m a cave that can only be 260 m reached by boat, famous 250 m for the colour effects Elevation 240 m caused by the sunlight in- 230 m side. Historians of the 220 m Lario remember that the 210 m 209.4 m largest fish in the Lake hid 0 km 5 km 20 km 25 km 15 km

10 km there, the legendary “bul-

Distance 27.8275 km beri” (which gives the cave its’ name). Once past the town Lezzeno, after some 3.5 km you reach the Ride length: Punta della Cavagnola: 27,8 km this is the extremity of the long, looming ridge of Connection with time trial: Mount San Primo, the CO01 Bellagio – Ghisallo highest peak in the Lari- Wet dock (San Giovanni)

20 21 Como province CO0102. Bellagio - Lezzeno - Nesso Nature itinerary ano Triangle. From here you can see the entire Comacine branch of The waterfall is visible from the Provincial Road or, descending to the the Lake with Comacina isle to the right; further, southeast of the lakeside along the characteristics steps starting from a Roman foot- Punta della Cavagnola between Nesso and Argegno, is the deepest bridge that connects the banks of the watercourse and leading along- point of the entire Lake (- 410 m). side the houses. It is particularly exciting in spring or after abundant The Punta della Cavagnola, with its’ position dividing the two basins rain which swells the course of the Tuf and the Nosè. of the Comacine branch of the Lake, was of strategic importance. Riding back along State Road 583 it is about 12 km to Bellagio. There was a watch tower, but there are also tales of a chapel dedicated to San Nicolao, and of a famous hostelry. The saint was invoked loudly as boats prepared to round the point, which was often considered a portent of dangers.

SECOND STAGE: NESSO Leaving the Punta della Cavagnola, the town Nesso is reached some 3 km further on, where lovers of natural spectacles cannot miss the Nesso gorge. Sited at the mouth beginning of the valleys of Tuf and Nosè, it is formed by the same named streams which join here in a spectacular foaming mass and which, falling over the rocks carved by the natural fury of the waters, form a cascade which thrusts towards the Lake close below.

Foreshortening from the Devil’s Bridge The Nesso Gorge

22 23 Como province CO0103. Magreglio - Barni - Lasnigo Religious itinerary

THE ROMANESQUE IN THE CENTRE OF THE LARIANO TRIANGLE: ANCIENT TRACES OF POPULAR FAITH

THEME In the Lariano Triangle, especially in the central zone, one finds ancient churches of Romanesque layout built in the fervent period from 1000 and 1300: the ancient bell towers standing out in the greenery surrounded by the mountains are particularly scenic.

FIRST STAGE: MAGREGLIO Next to the car park at the Ghisallo Museum you find the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghisallo. At the top of the pass of the same name, this small sanctuary, with late thirteenth century foundations, rebuilt in 1948, is famous for its’ dedication to the Madonna of Cyclists, after which, in 1949, Pius XII proclaimed the Blessed Virgin of the Ghisallo the “Patron saint of cyclists “. The churchyard hosts monuments to Fausto Coppi and to Don Er- melindo Viganò, rector of the Sanctuary. To the right is the cyclist’s monument, a work by Elio Ponti. Next to the Sanctuary, a Museum of Cycling was recently inaugurated,

CO0103CO0103 - ROMANESQUE - IL ROMANICO NELIN LARIAN TRIANGOLO TRIANGLE, LARIANO TRACES ANTICHE OFTRACCE OLD DIPEOPLE'S FEDE POPOLARE FAITH

759.3 m 750 m

700 m

650 m Elevation

600 m

550 m 545.9 m 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 8 km 10 km

Distance 11.8336 km

Ride length: About 12 km (climbing segments between Magreglio and Barni)

Connection with time trial: CO01 Bellagio - Ghisallo Church of Madonna del Ghisallo

24 25 Como province CO0103. Magreglio - Barni - Lasnigo Religious itinerary with a rich historical archive and precious mementoes, including the manesque bell tower, it may be considered one of the oldest churches jerseys and cycles of the great champions from Bartali and Coppi up in the valley, probably going back to the XIIth century and then to- to the glories of modern times Francesco Moser and Maria Canins. A tally rebuilt between the XVth and XVIth century. The bell tower rises stop at the Belvedere Romeo is recommended (to one side of the with a single lancet window and then a double lancet window; inside Sanctuary) where a splendid view of the Grigne and the Northern we find two ancient bells bearing inscriptions from 1420 and 1454. end of the Lario can be admired. Outside the church, in the lunette above the entrance, there is a figure of the Virgin Mary, enthroned Queen. Inside the church, in the apsi- SECOND STAGE: BARNI dal basin, there are numerous figures of saints, with an outstanding Following the Provincial Road 41 South for about 3 km you reach the isolate figure of Saint Lucius on the left wall. Early devotion would village of Barni where, set apart on the southern edge of the village have him to be the protector of milkmen and shepherds, but also as (via Madonnina), there is a Church dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. an example of charity: indeed he is depicted with a form of cheese The precise date of construction of this church is not known but in one hand and a knife in the other, in the act of cutting food for analysing the building today, and in particular the ancient Ro- distribution to the poor.

THIRD STAGE: LASNIGO Returning to Provincial Road towards Erba, about another 4 km take us to Lasnigo. Right on the Provincial Road we find the Romanesque church of St. Alexander, on of the most interesting religious buildings in the entire Valassina due to its’ site, to the characteristics Ro- manesque bell tower and the excellent frescoes by Andrea De Passeris. The church of St. Alexander has all the principal characteristics of Ro- manesque architecture in the Comacine area of the XIth and XIIth century, whose construction typology is strongly connoted by the use of timber, of squared stone and, for lesser works, of large river pebbles, all these materials are found the building site. The church of St. Alexander stands at the top of a hillock, reached by a typical set of steps, embellished by 14 seventeenth century chapels along the Via Crucis. The most likely hypothesis is that the church was extended towards the end of the fourteenth century, with two arches and the widening of the nave, articulated in three bays; there are two visible lines on the façade corresponding to the gable of the previous Romanesque chapel. Inside there are two precious frescoes by Gerolamo Gorla and Andrea de Passeri from the XVIth - XVIIth century. In 1912 St. Alexander was declared a national monument and is still used by the population of Lasnigo, especially on 26 August on the occasion of the recurrence of the martyrdom of the patron saint. Back along Provincial Road 41 towards Bellagio, there are some 6 km to the car park at the Sanctuary del Ghisallo.

Romanesque Church of Saint Alessandro in Lasnigo

26 27 Como province CO02.CO02. NessoNesso -- ColmaColma didi SormanoSormano Mountain time trial

Characteristics and route The 13 km long Nesso - Sormano climb starts at an altitude of 280 m at Nesso, rising to 1,135 m at the Colma di Sormano, with a difference in altitude of 855 m. Although it doesn’t have the elevated gradients of the Ghisallo climb, this is still one of the most difficult climbs in the Lariano Triangle. Ex- cluding the restful section across the Piano del Tivano, it has an average gradient of 7,4%, with points of maximum slope of 12%. The road surface is in discrete condition, the roadway is sufficiently wide, shaded all the way, with twelve switchback bends to face. This climb is also often one of the stages on the Tour of Lombardy. The climb can be split into three main sections: the first 10 km, from Nesso to the Piano del Tivano, is fairly difficulty, with an average gradient of 7%; the second and third have the same length (1,600 metres), yet while the first is all flat, the second has an average gradients of 8,9%. The road to the Pian del Tivano, from the Nesso exit of the Provincial Road 583, climbs tortuously (nine switchback bends in the first 5 km) from Lake Como up to the watershed with the Lambro valley, through small villages clinging to the slopes of Mount Monte San Primo, initially offering views of the branch of the Lake, with glimpses, for example, of Argegno and the entrance to the Valle d’Intelvi. The gradients in this segment are about 7/8%. CO02CO02 - HILL - CRONOSCALATA CLIMB NESSO NESSO - COLMA - COLMA DI SORMANO DI SORMANO The route leads through Erno, then Zelbio (surrounded by magnificent woods hiding the Tacchi and Zelbio caves), finally reaching the 1.121.9 m 1.100 m vast Pian del Tivano basin. On the road across the plateau you’ll see 1.000 m the “Buco della Niccolina”, which receives the rainwater that is col- 900 m lected in the basin. 800 m One of the most difficult parts is crossing Zelbio, but there are other 700 m fairly difficult parts at Comei (km 9.3) and especially in the last kilo- 600 m Elevation metre, where you begin to feel the distance already covered. Reach- 500 m ing the Colma you see the Astronomical Observatory and, above all, 400 m the Alpine Refuge, which serves food, and you have a of a chara - 300 m cteristic part of the Valassina with Sormano, Caglio and Rezzago. 253.3 m 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 8 km 10 km 12 km

Distance 13.1059 km

Start location: Nesso (metri 280) Finish location: Colma di Sormano (metri 1.135) Length: 13,1 km Difference in altitude: 855 m Average gradient: 6,8% Maximum gradient: 12%

28 29 Como province CO0201-A. Nesso - Pognana Lario - Torno Artistic / religious itinerary

IN SEARCH OF PRECIOUS FRESCOES BY THE COMACINE MASTERS - A

THEME The particular scenery of the Lake has always inspired brush artists, so much so that in the Lariano Triangle success has kissed artists of local, national and international importance (first and foremost Turner and Corot). In particular, towards the end of the fourteenth century, a small group of local artists worked around this area leaving precious works in churches and private homes: of these the most important were Andrea de Passeris and Bartolomeo de Benzi.

FIRST STAGE: NESSO Frescoes by De Benzi are to be found in several churches on the West shore of the Lariano Triangle, in the villages of Nesso, Pognana Lario and Torno. Starting from the car park in Via Roma at Nesso, you can visit, in via Santa Maria, the church of Santa Maria in Vico, built in the XIIIth century by the Humiliati lay order, which preached a return to more aus- tere spirituality and a simpler life. Inside there are several frescoes by the fourteenth century painter, with the outstanding polyptych behind the altar, precious due to the noble conception of the wooden structure that frames the image of Our Lady of the Assumption. It is signed and dated 1500. There are two more De Benzi frescoes which CO0201 - DISCOVERINGCO0201A - ALLA RICERCATHE VALUABLE DEI PREGEVOLI FRESCOES AFFRESCHI OF DEITHE MAESTRI LARIAN LARIANI MASTERS (percorso (ROUTE A) A) are particularly interesting in terms of their formal and expressive re- 376.8 m finement. 360 m 340 m SECOND STAGE: POGNANA LARIO 320 m Riding some 5 km southwards along State Road 583 (not forgetting 300 m to enjoy the scenic glimpses of the Lake) you reach the village Pog- 280 m nana Lario where, in the Canzaga area, you can visit the church of Elevation 260 m San Roch. Built in Romanesque style, witnessed by the base of its 240 m wonderful bell tower, and originally dedicated to the Holy Trinity, it 220 m now presents an imposing seventeenth century façade. The cupola is 203.9 m of significant artistic interest, frescoed at the end of the fourteenth 8 km 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 10 km 12 km 14 km century by Master Bartolomeo de Benzi with paintings of the four

Distance 14.4179 km doctors of the church (Saint Jerome, Saint Augustine, Saint Ambrose and Saint Gregory the Great) accompanied by medallions of the Prophets and the symbols of the Evangelists. In 1965 these works were restored to their original beauty of form Ride length: and colours, in a careful restoration campaign. 14,4 km THIRD STAGE: TORNO Connection with time trial: Once again along State Road 583, some 5.5 km further South you CO02 Nesso - Sormano reach Torno, where in Piazza Casartelli you find the last church fres-

30 31 Como province CO0201-A. Nesso - Pognana Lario - Torno Artistic / religious itinerary coed by a Comacine Master: the church of Saint Tecla, facing the Lake De Benzi left other traces of his works in the right vane and in the with a beautiful view towards Como and the villages on the West decorations of the arches. The other local master artist, Andrea de shore. The precise date of construction of this building is unknown, Passeris, painted an Assumption of Our Lady for the church of Saint the visible layout is, however, from the fourteenth century. Tecla which is now in the Pinacoteca di Brera at Milan. Of a slightly The architectural lines of the façade, with the architrave over the door later period than the works of the Comacine painters, is a splendid carved and surmounted by the gothic rose window, bear witness to wood group representing the Lament of Christ hosted in the second the fact that the architects looked at the most ambitious models of chapel to the left. More recent studies attribute it to the second their time, in particular the Cathedral in Como. decade of the fifteenth century. Inside the building, on the right wall of the Baptistery, there is a particularly interesting fresco by de Benzi, of the “The Man of Pains”.

Church of Saint Rocco in Pognana Lario Church of Saint Tecla in Torno

32 33 Como province CO0201-B. Sormano - Lasnigo - Rezzago Artistic / religious itinerary

IN SEARCH OF PRECIOUS FRESCOES BY THE COMACINE MASTERS 2

FIRST STAGE: SORMANO-ASSO Starting from the car park in via Pian del Tivano at Sormano and riding about 2 km towards Asso, you reach the church of Saints Nazarius and Celsus at Mudronno, probably built in the XIIth century: historical notes indicate that it is oldest church in the upper Valassina. The choir of this ancient church was covered in frescoes, with outstanding images of Saints Nazarius and Celsus; Saints Cosmas and Damian, the patron saints of Rezzago; Saints Gervase and Protase, the patron saints of Caglio. Humidity has damaged them beyond repair; only the fresco of Saints Cosmas and Damian could be saved, its’ iconographic characteristics attribute it to the painter Andrea de Passeris from CO0201 - DISCOVERING THE VALUABLE FRESCOES OF THE LARIAN MASTERS (ROUTE B) Torno. The frescoes from diverse periods recently discovered in the CO0201B - ALLA RICERCA DEI PREGEVOLI AFFRESCHI DEI MAESTRI LARIANI (percorso B)

818 m 800 m

750 m

700 m

650 m Elevation 600 m

550 m

500 m 496.8 m 8 km 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 10 km 12 km

Distance 13.6113 km

Ride length: 13,6 km

Connection with time trial: CO02 Nesso - Sormano Church of the Sts. Nazarius and Celsius in Mudronno

34 35 Como province CO0201-B. Sormano - Lasnigo - Rezzago Artistic / religious itinerary presbytery are of significant artistic value: they were totally covered SECOND STAGE: LASNIGO by whitewash which hid and preserved these interesting images for About 4 km down the valley, you reach the village of Lasnigo where, years. The presbytery vault is divided by four ribs: the central panel on the Provincial Road, you find the Romanesque church of is dominated by the figure of Christ in a mandorla with the figures of St. Alexander, worth visiting for its location, for the typical Ro- two saints to the sides. The North lunette shows the Doctors of the manesque bell tower and for the wonderful frescoes by Andrea De church while in the other you can admire the Coronation of Our Lady Passeris, that includes a marvellous, contemplative “Crucifixion”. by god the Father amidst the exultation of angels. As well as the This church has all the principal characteristics of Comacine Ro- frescoes, this little church has two very interesting artistic treasures: a manesque architecture of the XIth and XIIth centuries, with construc- Renaissance sculpture of a Madonna and Child and a characteristics tion typology distinguished by the use of squared stone, timber, and, frontal piece in scagliola. On 30 May 1912 the Ministry of Public for minor works, large river pebbles, all easily procured close to the Education declared the church a national monument. building site. St. Alexander stands at the peak of a hillock whence you can admire a splendid view of the valley and of the surrounding mountains, reached by a typical flight of steps, lined by 14 seventeenth Via Crucis chapels. The most probable hypothesis is that the church was extended towards the end of the fourteenth century, with the construction of two arches and widening the nave, into three bays; on the façade two lines may be observed which correspond to the gable of the previous Romanesque church. In 1912 St. Alexander was declared a national monument and is still used by the population of Lasnigo, in particular on 26 August on the occasion of the recurrence of the martyrdom of its patron saint.

THIRD STAGE: REZZAGO Returning to Provincial Road 41 and turning towards Rezzago, after about 4.5 km – in Via Santa Valeria – you reach the church dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damian, pharmacists and doctors who worked for nothing. It was built in Romanesque style, as denoted by the bell tower. The four twin lancet windows, although of the same width, gradually increase in height as they rise to the top, delivering a particular sweep to the very structure. Given its dominating position overlooking the entire valley, the bell tower was also used as a watch tower. Inside there are outstanding frescoes by De Passeris, including a “Crucifixion” on the rear wall of the apse. The fresco of the Pentecost with the Madonna, the Apostles and the Dove is also very interesting, as well as a wooden statue of the Madonna as the Protector of Har- vests, holding a sheaf of corn. A ride of another 4.5 km brings you back to the car park at Sormano.

Church of the Sts. Cosmas and Damian

36 37 Como province CO0202. Sormano - Barni - Asso History itinerary

DEFENDING THE LAND: A TOUR OF ANCIENT FORTIFICATIONS

THEME The mountainous conformation of the central section of the Lariano Triangle made some villages strategic points in the defence of the inhabitants against attacks from outside. Riding through this zone you can see the ruins of ancient fortifications from the medieval period.

FIRST STAGE: SORMANO An example of reconstructed walls may be seen at Sormano, in via Castello. In the Middle Ages a castle stood here, which was demol- ished in 1500 on the orders of Charles V. The stones of a feudal manor house were used to build the new parish church and many houses. Four centuries later, precisely at the beginning of the second half of the XXth century, where the old castle stood, a perimeter wall crenel- lated in living stone, enriched by a gateway in gneiss and the coat of arms of the Sormani family was constructed. To the side of the gateway there is a plaque which narrates the history of the castle. The renewed fortifications are private property although they are often used by the municipal council for cultural and historic events such as medieval revivals and feasts. The medieval layout of the burg can still be recognised in some views of the historic centre. CO0202 - IN DEFENSECO0202 - OF A DIFESA THE TERRITORY. DEL TERRITORIO. TOUR TOUR BETWEEN TRA LE THEANTICHE ANCIENT FORTIFICAZIONI FORTIFICATIONS

767.9 m SECOND STAGE: BARNI Descending to the plain and riding along the Provincial Road 41 700 m about 8.5 km towards Bellagio, you reach Barni where you may view the old medieval fortifications of which there are still traces in the 600 m fields on the boundary between Barni and Magreglio. The castle built between 900 and 1000, dominates the village with Elevation Its outer wall and a tower which vegetation is gradually hiding from 500 m view.

400 m 386.4 m THIRD STAGE: ASSO 0 km 5 km 20 km

25 km Continuing along the Provincial Road 41 southwards, after some 6.5 15 km 10 km km, you come to Asso, where in via Curioni, you may admire the re- Distance 25.3487 km mains of the wall and tower of the old castle of the burg. The castle was erected in the IXth century: it stands on a hillock, at a height of 21 metres above ground, and is 40 metres in width, the Ride length: walls are metres thick. Today, little remains of the initial defensive lay- 25,3 km (the Rezzago - Sormano section is fairly hard) out, that is the tower: there were two drill grounds and around these there was an earthwork rampart with a battlemented wall for cross- Connection with time trial: bowmen which impeded the use of siege machines and rams by at- CO02 Nesso - Sormano tackers.

38 39 Como province CO0202. Sormano - Barni - Asso History itinerary

The strong castle walls led down from the tower towards the church Inside it safeguards a small altar of probable ancient roman origin, of Saint Joseph, surrounding the old marketplace (now piazza Mazzini) and a plaque, dated 1796, dedicated to the Cisalpine Republic on then climbed up to the parish church, built on top of the wall, meet- which the inhabitants of the Vallassina give thanks to the French re- ing again in the central area of the fortified burg; now just a few sec- public to whom the owe a debt for liberty restored. There is another tions remain in the village which are not easy to identify. tower at Scarenna, a hamlet of Asso, heavily reworked and the ruins The square based tower is thirty metres in height, although the height of what was probably a town wall. was reduced over the centuries by removal of material for the con- Some 7.5 km bring you back to the car park in via Pian del Tivano at struction of the Provostal and Holy Cross churches; it is one of a few Sormano. parts of the castle in a good state of conservation, even though some of the windows are extraneous to the original construction.

Bell-tower of the church of St. Joseph and square based tower Tower and town wall in Scarenna, hamlet of Asso

40 41 Como province CO0203. Sormano - Caglio Art itinerary

ARTE EN PLEIN AIR: SEGANTINI IN CAGLIO

THEME The town Caglio is historically linked with the artistic affairs of the divisionist painter Segantini, an internationally known artist, who stayed there in the autumn of 1885 and the spring of 1886 when he created one of his masterpieces entitled “The Stanga”. The town celebrated the figure of the artist on the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of his birth creating a permanent exhibition entitled “Segantini in the open air”. The exhibition, of particular interest to lovers of the art of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, offers a careful selection of some of his greatest master pieces, reproduced in large dimensions and shown in the open air in the most characteristic points of this town in the Brianza area. The exhibition leads through the entire artistic and ex- istential progress of this painter. After a turbulent youth in Milan, and after an intense period of formation enriched by frequenting the most advanced artistic ambiences, in 1881 Segantini moved to the Brianza with his companion Bice Bugatti, initially settling at Pusiano and then – driven by an urge to explore even higher pre-alpine ridges and indeed the more prosaic need to avoid his creditors – close to lake Seg- rino (Carella and Corneno), then arriving in the autumn of 1885 at Caglio. CO0203CO0203 - ARTE - ARTE EN ENPLEIN PLEIN AIR... AIR... SEGANTINI SEGANTINI IN A CAGLIO The peculiarity of this permanent exhibition is that of achieving a har- 818 m monious interaction of the master’s works of art with the historical 800 m and artistic reality of this burg.

750 m SINGLE STAGE: SORMANO - CAGLIO 700 m Staring from the car park in Via al Tivano at Sormano, riding for some 2 km you reach the village Caglio. Elevation 650 m The old nucleus still has characteristic architecture from other times. Of cultural interest is the church of Saint Valeria, a Romanesque type 600 m building in a Greek cross plan: on the inside walls there are thirteenth 564.7 m century frescoes of the titular saint. 4 km 5 km 6 km 7 km 8 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km The “In the Open Air” exhibition develops in the historic centre of the 8.7037 km Distance town, in a sort of ring surrounding the two main piazzas, Piazza Mer- cato and Piazza Giovanni XXIII. It has 15 panels which reproduce a selection of the most representative of the Master’s works and which bear testimony of the experience Ride length: of his life in the Brianza, and of his artistic and technical growth from 8,7 km realism to the latter divisionist and symbolist paintings. Connection with time trial: CO02 Nesso - Sormano

42 43 Como province CO0203. Sormano - Caglio Art itinerary

The reproductions of the following works are exhibited: • The Two Mothers • Bagpipers of Brianza • The Angel of Life • After a Storm in the Alps • Unnatural mothers • The Blessing of the Sheep • Love at the Fountain of Life • At Early Mass • Haymaking The stanga (painted at Caglio in the fields once known as Saint Vale- • Ploughing in the Engadine ria’s, this painting closes the Brianza period and inaugurates the di- • The Engadine triptychon visionist/symbolist period) • Spring Pastures

Segantini Permanent Exhibition in Caglio

44 45 Como province CO03.CO03. OnnoOnno -- ValbronaValbrona Mountain time trial

Characteristics and route The 5.1 km Onno - Valbrona climb, starting at an attitude of 212 m at Onno, a part of the town Oliveto Lario in the Lecco Province, as- cends to 499 m at Osigo di Valbrona. The climb begins in the town Onno and has no particular difficult parts nor is it excessively long (5 kilometres from the turn off to the fountain at Valbrona): it is, indeed by a proverb «La Onn, la salida di donn» (the Onn, the women’s climb), which emphasises the ease of a short, sweet climb, especially when compared with the neighbouring Gisallo climb. However the gradient only falls away in the last two kilometres and, in no case, is below 5%: the average gradient is 5,3%, with a point of 8,2% from km 2.5 to km 3. On the approach to Valbrona village the gradient softens slightly to almost flat in the last five hundred metres; a pretty fountain “in the honour of cyclists” indicates the finish of the climb.

CO03CO03 - HILL- CRONOSCALATA CLIMB ONNO ONNO VALBRONA - VALBRONA

497.4 m

450 m

400 m

350 m Elevation 300 m

250 m

210.4 m 4 km 5 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km 5.191 km Distance

Start location: Onno (212 m) Finish location: Valbrona (499 m) Length: 5,2 km Difference in altitude: 287 m Average gradient: 5,3% Maximum gradient: 8,2% View of the Lecco Arm

46 47 Como province CO0301. Valbrona - Lasnigo - Canzo Religious itinerary

PLACES OF PAIN: A TOUR OF THE ANCIENT LAZARETTOS

THEME Death and pain have always stimulated a morbid sense of attraction: seeing, touching, perceiving places of pain is a pregnant factor for visitors who love the dark. The Lariano Triangle has sites which bear witness to the dramatic mo- ments experienced by the inhabitants of this zone in the past: one example is the ancient lazarettos where the sick were quarantined during the epidemics which swept through over the centuries. Other religious buildings became the goal of pilgrimages seeking rapid healing for more or less serious diseases. The itinerary includes four churches in the centre of the Lariano Tri- angle, in the villages of Valbrona, Lasnigo and Canzo.

FIRST STAGE: VALBRONA At Maisano, in the immediate vicinity of the car park in front of the sports centre in via Milano, you find the characteristic Sanctuary of the Madonna of Fevers, surrounded by centenary beech trees. The Sanctuary is particularly dear to the locals and was built towards the end of the 1700’s as a reminder of the plagues which hit the village during the invasion by Charles V’s Lansquenets in 1500. The church is dedicated to the Madonna of the Fevers because is was CO0301CO0301 - PLACES - LUOGHI OF DI SORROW: DOLORE: TOUR TRA IN THE GLI ANTICHIANCIENT LAZZARETTI LAZARETS much frequented by the knife grinders who, travelling so much for 635.6 m work, were infected by more or less serious diseases and went to the 600 m Sanctuary to beg for healing. The construction was linked with a popular legend: it is said that in 550 m 1779 some peasants from the village, returning from their labours in the fields, found an image of a Madonna in the bed of brook called 500 m the Campei. The peasants returned home with the precious effigy, Elevation which, unfortunately, disappeared on the following day. After stren- 450 m uous searches, the precious icon was found once again on the bed of

400 m the brook: the inhabitants of Valbrona took it on a procession and in 387.6 m that characteristic place dominated by the Grigna the little sanctuary 0 km 5 km 20 km 15 km 10 km was built.

Distance 20.9263 km There is also an anecdote about Pope Pius XI: when he was still a seminarist, he took holidays with his uncle, then parish priest at Asso, and he was wont to choose the church as the destination of his walks and as a place of prayer. Ride length: 20,9 km SECOND STAGE: LASNIGO Past the village Valbrona and along the Provincial road 41, after Connection with time trial: about 7.5 km you reach the town Lasnigo where, in via dei Morti di CO03 Onno - Valbrona Valmorana, there is a pretty church dedicated to Saint Joseph, better

48 49 Como province CO0301. Valbrona - Lasnigo - Canzo Religious itinerary known as the church of the Dead of Valmorana. It stands on fenced reach Canzo where at the end of a short ascent in Via Gajum there is land where there used to be a lazaretto, where the dead were buried a chapel dedicated to the Archangel Michael. This site was used as a during the plague of 1630 described by Alessandro Manzoni in his lazaretto during the plague in 1863 and perhaps before too: local novel “The Betrothed”. tradition has it that the field below was used as a cemetery for the Since 1903, on the first Sunday in September every year, the feast of victims of the plague of 1630, which, as mentioned, was cited in the the Dead of Valmorana is celebrated. Betrothed. The chapel is well preserved thanks to many restorations: the Saint and temporal works of mercy are frescoed inside. It’s about THIRD STAGE: CANZO 6 km back to the car park at Valbrona. Taking the Provincial Road again, about 6 km further along, you

St. Michael The Archangel Chapel, Canzo Madonna della Febbre, Valbrona

50 51 Como province CO0302. Valbrona - Asso - Barni Gastronomy itinerary

LOCALLY PRODUCED FOOD AND DRINK: GENUINELY GOOD NUTRITION

THEME In recent years a return to genuinely good products, untreated and sold directly by farmers, attracts a growing number of consumers and tourists. A visit to sector specialist companies is particularly appreciated, both as an opportunity to taste and buy natural products, and as an ed- ucative approach to the tradition and culture of healthy food. This itinerary introduces several farm companies specialising in the production and sale of fruit and vegetable produce, charcuterie, dairy products and honey, where you can taste and buy direct from the producer.

CO0302CO0302 - AGRICULTURAL - PRODOTTI AGROALIMENTARI: PRODUCTS: HAVING NUTRIRSI A CONGENUINE GENUINITÀ DIET

755.6 m

700 m

600 m

Elevation 500 m

400 m

365.7 m 0 km 5 km 20 km 25 km 15 km 10 km

Distance 29.7263 km

Ride length: 29,7 km (harder section at Barni)

Connection with time trial: CO03 Onno – Valbrona Little Lake Crezzo

52 53 Como province CO0302. Valbrona - Asso - Barni Gastronomy itinerary

FIRST STAGE: VALBRONA SECOND STAGE: ASSO At Valbrona, from the car park in Via Milano (at Maisano) you can 4 km from Visino you reach the Scarenna that is part of Asso. Here visit two local agriculturalists. you find the Villa Stefano farm company which, further to raising cat- In the Osigo quarter, in via Le Scuole, you’ll find the Grifone farming tle, specialises in fruit and vegetables: you can taste and purchase the company, a beekeeping specialist for over twenty years, managing, market garden produce in season. in the typical Lombard tradition, some thirty nomadic hives, and committed to the production of much appreciated single flower THIRD STAGE: BARNI honeys. Returning to Provincial Road 41 towards Bellagio after some 7 km Here you can taste and purchase the products of the hives, in par- you come to the Sant’Angelo farmstead, in via Colombo, a specialist ticular the precious honeys gathered on the slopes of the Corni di producer of fresh and mature cheeses, Robiola soft cheeses and ricot- Canzo. tas from pure goat’s milk, goat meat and pork charcuterie, honey. En- In the Visino hamlet, 2 km towards Asso, you can visit the La Caprina tering Barni, and taking the road to the Conca di Crezzo for a couple holiday farm, which specialises in animal husbandry (in particular of kilometres you reach the Tourism and Health Company which has the Camosciata and Saanen breeds of goats) and the production of specialised in vegetable cultivation an animal husbandry: you can fresh and matured goat’s milk cheeses which can be purchased at taste and buy the season’s vegetables and charcuterie. the farm shop. It’s about 11 km back to the car park at Valbrona.

Crezzo Plain

54 55 Como province CO0303. Valbrona - Asso - Canzo Nature itinerary

CLEAR COOL WATERS: ANCIENT SPRINGS IN THE LARIANO TRIANGLE

THEME The central part of the Lariano Triangle is characterised by its under- ground watercourses which, at certain points, emerge from the rock forming pretty springs and waterfalls.

FIRST STAGE: VALBRONA Valbrona is well known for its’ numerous springs (Funtanin de Pus- nela, Funtanin da la Val di Campei at Maisano, the Spisarota spring at Osigo, Funtanin la Cumparola at Candalino, Funtanin da la Val di Sassei at Visino): of these, that probably most dear to the locals, also because it has an interesting, mystical story, is the San Carlo Spring at Maisano. Just a few hundred metres from the car park in via Milano, the spring feeds the local public washing house and is famous because, according to the legend, it quenched San Carlo’s thirst during his exhausting visit to the valley. The spring is also the usual site of a particular popular rite followed by the locals on Christmas night: at midnight, while the bells are ringing, the locals runs to drink from the spring blessed by the saint for good luck.

SECOND STAGE: ASSO CO0303 - FRESH AND CLEAR WATER. ANCIENT SOURCES IN LARIAN TRIANGLE CO0303 - CHIARE E FRESCHE ACQUE. ANTICHE FONTI NEL TRIANGOLO LARIANO Descending from Asso, after about 5 km you reach the hamlet of

506.3 m Scarenna where, from the Ponte Folla (bridge) you can see the waters 500 m spring from the rocks at the Cascata Vallategna. The Vallategna wa- 480 m terfall, at the boundary between Asso and Canzo, marks the boundary of the territories of the Brianza and of the Valassina: it is formed by 460 m the waters of the Foce stream which, after a fall of some 30 metres, 440 m flow into the river Lambro. Elevation The water leap from the rocks is dictated by the morphology of the 420 m crag and of the vegetation it passes through: Stendhal mentioned the

400 m Vallategna waterfall in the memoirs in his “Italian Journey”. 387.6 m 8 km 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km

10 km 12 km 14 km THIRD STAGE: CANZO

14.1289 km Proceeding towards Canzo and entering shady via Gajum, some 2 km Distance further on, mostly upwards, you reach the famous Gajum springs. The name of the “Fonti di Gajum” derives from the local word Gaümm (from a Celtic root ga=recipient, belly), which means nutshell as Ride length: there was a large walnut tree above the spring and the shells fell into 14,1 km (harder section from Canzo to the Gajum springs) the basin. The fame of the goodness of this water is so widespread that there is Connection with time trial: always a queue in front of the public fountains, from all over the Bri- CO03 Onno - Valbrona anza and the Milan area, waiting to fill their bottles and containers.

56 57 Como province CO0303. Valbrona - Asso - Canzo Nature itinerary

The Fonti di Gajum have been a rest point for excursionist climbing (now a holiday farm) on the Horns of Canzo. The trail leads to visits up to the Alp for many years; a little coolness is assured by the fronds to the limestone rocks typical of the Lariano Triangle, to several erratic of the woods above the springs (he you may admire the well pre- boulders and to the Devil’s Cauldron, an interesting cavity worn into served Sanctuary of the Madonna Addolorata). the rock by the force of the Ravella torrent. Throughout the Canzo area there are many other springs: each Alp Leaving the wood, you return along the route through Canzo and (small mountain hamlets with farming and livestock) was built close Asso, back to Provincial Road 46 to Valbrona. to one or more springs; there are other springs in the Pesora valley It’s about 7 km to the car park at the start. and at the San Miro hermitage, as well as other, less accessible sites along the sides of the Val Ravella. From the Fonti di Gajum there is a geological trail which, passing by the Sanctuary of San Miro al Monte, reaches the old Terz’Alpe refuge

Vallategna Waterfall San Carlo Spring

58 59 Lecco province Mountain time trials Relaxing itineraries

he mountain time trial offered in Lecco Province is at the en- The three relaxing itineraries in Lecco Province, which begin about Ttrance to the Valsassina, easily reached by car along the State Road 6 km from the Ballabio - Piani Resinelli mountain time trial, are all in SS 36 from Lecco to Ballabio. the territory of the Valsassina with circuits through the villages of Cre- The route chosen is a climb from Ballabio Superiore to the Piani meno, Pasturo, Barzio, Introbio, Primaluna and Cortenova. Resinelli along a twisting yet spectacular road which reaches this vast The itineraries begin at the car park in the square in front of the Val- altopiano lying between 1.200 e 1.300 metres. sassina Mountain Community council, from Valvarrone, Val d’Esino The Resinelli basin, a verdant saddle in the spring and summer, is and from Riviera (via Fornace Merlo) and follow parts of Provincial closed to the East by the spur of the Corni del Nibbio and to the Road 62, roads in the villages and parts of the cycle path which be- North by the Dolomitic pinnacles of the South Grigna. gins close to the car park and runs from Barzio to Cortenova. The Resinelli, which have accommodation structures, are one of the The mountainous lay of the territory is such that the itineraries are most popular excursion areas in the mountains around Lecco. The partially on flatland and partially climbs (quite hard in some sections), local attractions include the Valentino park, the area between the Par- but feasible for amateur cyclists. adiso peak and Mount Coltiglione, with well equipped paths through the fields, beech woods and spectacular precipices, the Grigne House Museum and the Mineral park. The Ballabio – Resinelli climb, is not only a goal for provincial and regional cycle races (above all the Lecco - Piani Resinelli race) also gives the name to a Moto Guzzi motorcycle, called the V11 Sport Bal- labio in honour of the route, now legendary, for lovers of that sport.

60 61 Lecco province LC01. Ballabio - Piani Resinelli Mountain time trial

Characteristics and route The Ballabio - Piani Resinelli climb is some 8 km long, starting from an altitude of 674 m at Ballabio Superiore rising to 1,289 m close to Piani Resinelli. This is a relatively modest distance, with an elevated average gradient. Although there are no extreme sections (only a couple of short pas- sages are 11%), segments where the average gradient is below 7% are rare. Having come through Ballabio Superiore, on the left you find the road marked for Piani Resinelli: this, in excellent condition all along the route, wide, and well asphalted, has 14 switchback bends, the second of which is paved. The road doesn’t see a great deal of traffic (except on some holidays) and almost the entre route is shaded by birch, pine, beech and fir, as far as the entrance to Piazza Asinera (km 7). Completing the last climbing segment there is a mild descent as the highest point is some 200 before the centre: a meal can be found at various places here. A historical curiosity: in 1962 the Piani Resinelli hosted the finish of a stage on the Tour of Italy, won by the Spaniard Soler.

LC01 - HILL CLIMB BALLABIO - RESINELLI LC01 - CRONOSCALATA BALLABIO - RESINELLI

1289.7 m

1200 m

1100 m

1000 m

Elevation 900 m

800 m

700 m 672.9 m 4 km 5 km 6 km 7 km 8 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km 8.0064 km Distance

Start location: Ballabio (metri 674) Finish location: Piani Resinelli (metri 1.289) Length: 8 km Difference in altitude: 615 m Average gradient: 7,6% Maximum gradient: 11% Little Church in the Resinelli Basin

62 63 Lecco province LC0101. Pasturo - Barzio - Cremeno Religious itinerary

THE HISTORY OF VALSASSINESE RELIGION: AMONG ANCIENT BELL TOWERS AND ORGAN MELODIES

THEME This itinerary begins at the car park in front of the Valsassina Moun- tain Community council offices (via Fornace Merlo) and touches several significant local villages, not just centres of economic and social activities, but also of fervent local religious cults of which there are traces in sacred buildings.

FIRST STAGE: PASTURO Leaving the Mountain Community car park along Provincial Road 62 for some 1.5 km you arrive at the first village on the route: Pasturo. in piazza Vittorio Veneto you can admire the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Cintura, one of the major religious sites of the Val- sassina, a land of ancient faith where, from the middle of the sixteenth century, Marian devotion was spread by the Augustinians. The Sanc- tuary already stood in the XVth century as an oratory dedicated to Saint James, with the current perimeter conformation laid out in 1618. This Baroque style church has a single nave with a high altar, to the sides of which there are two lateral chapels decorated with an-

LC0101 - HISTORY OF VALSASSINA CULT: AMONG BELLS AND MELODIES OF ORGANS LC0101 - STORIA DEL CULTO VALSASSINESE: TRA ANTICHI CAMPANILI E MELODIE DI ORGANI

807.6 m 800 m

750 m

700 m Elevation 650 m

600 m

578.8 m 8 km 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km 12 km 14 km 16 km 10 km

Distance 16.3327 km

Ride length: 16,3 km (quite stiff climbs between Pasturo and Barzio)

Connection with time trial: Sanctuary of the LC01 Ballabio - Piani Resinelli Madonna della Cintura

64 65 Lecco province LC0101. Pasturo - Barzio - Cremeno Religious itinerary other two altars. The original façade of the Sanctuary is distinguished THIRD STAGE: CREMENO by an imposing portico overlooking the road leading to the Sanctu- Riding another 1.5 km along via Corsi you reach the last stop on the ary. It hosts works by Giovanni Domenico Aliprandi (an artist from itinerary: Cremeno. In piazza Paolo VI you can visit Saint George’s the Val Taleggio, who also worked in the Duchy of Venice) and Aloy- church, rebuilt around the sixteenth century on a previous medieval sius Realis, a Florentine artist. construction whose high bell tower is still there today. Beside the bell Proceeding to the centre of Pasturo, in via Manzoni you find the tower, there are very interesting frescoes by Borgognone, safeguarded Baroque church of Saint Eusebius. There was a chapel dedicated to in St. George’s chapel to the right of the entrance. Outside the build- Saint Eusebius as early as the twelfth century, but it was consecrated ing the particular via Crucis is worthy of a pause, consisting of four- in 1401 by Friar Guglielmo da Barlassina. It was rebuilt in 1597 and teen chapels created in the late seventeenth century. Close to the hosts canvases from 1645 by Aloysius Realis, Baroque stuccoes by the church, in piazza Europa, during the last Sunday in August, the an- Aliprandi and a marble altar by Giudici. To the sides of the altar you cient feast of Saint Rosalie when typical local produce may be tasted may see two paintings by Aldo Carpi, one representing the funeral of or watch demonstrations of ancient crafts and trades. From this piazza Our Lady and the other Jesus blessing the children. The organ is of there is a splendid panorama over the valley towards the Grigne. particular artistic interest, built in 1849, it has a precious walnut cas- Another 1 km or so towards Maggio, there is a particularly pretty ing. point of natural interest: the Ponte della Vittoria (Victory Bridge), an Some 300 metres to the North, in the Bajedo zone, you reach the last infrastructure some 100 metres in height over the Pioverna stream church in Pasturo included in this itinerary: Saint Andrew’s church. built in the early 1900’s to link Cremeno village with the hamlet of The edifice, at the village cemetery, built in the first half of the 1300’s Maggio. Don’t miss the exciting view of the gorge below, or indeed is very well known locally as it hosts a very small bell, conical in shape the view of the peaks of the Grigne. with a very sweet peal, which is considered the oldest in the Val- To return to the car park at the start, ride along Via Milano, then turn sassina. into via Vecchia to Maggio onto Provincial Road 62 (about 4 km).

SECOND STAGE: BARZIO Leaving Bajedo take the Provincial Road for Ballabio. After about 2 km, at Fornace, turn onto via Fornaci Merlo and proceed for another 3 km between the fields and through the woods to Barzio village (we emphasise that a good part of this road, some 1.5 km, is a stiff climb with average gradients of 6% to 7%). The church of St. Alexander, in via Parrocchiale, stands in the centre of the oldest part of the village. The current aspect of the church is the fruit of diverse intervention over the centuries: around the XVth century, the original little Ro- manesque church saw a profound, radical transformation into one of the most majestic in the valley, due also to the refinement of the decorations and paraments. Around the 1930’s the building was mod- ernised once again, turning the entrance and expansion to how it now stands. The church hosts numerous precious works. The statue in wood of Our Lady of the Rosary is particularly beautiful, blessed in 1715 and carried in procession on the first Sunday of August each year, the San Carlo altar piece (1640), the alter piece with the Mar- riage of Our Lady. Nor should you miss the magnificent organ by the brother Masters Mascioni, inaugurated in 1978, a unique work in terms of size and potency: it is considered avant garde also in terms of production of sound and effects, so much so that it is often used for concerts by Italian and other maestros. Church of St. George

66 67 Lecco province LC0102. Introbio - Barzio Cultural itinerary

FASCINATING TIMES: A TOUR OF HISTORIC PALACES AND MODERN SCULPTURES

THEME The itinerary is recommended for those seeking to see the artistic and cultural reality in the Valsassina, where the ancient and modern are side by side: an entrancing blend for those seeking a jump across time in art.

FIRST STAGE: INTROBIO The tour begins at the car park in front of the Valsassina Mountain Community council offices (Via Fornace Merlo) whence you ride for some 5 km, part along the cycle path and partly along Provincial Road 62, to reach Introbio village. You really must stop at an interesting natural attraction, the Troggia waterfall in Via alla Cascata. Leonardo da Vinci, in one of his Codices, described the Troggia stream leaping from the Val Biandino to the Valsassina: “a leap of one hundred metres whereafter the stream becomes a river, joining the waters of another river running through the valley, the Pioverna”. A few hundred metres from the waterfall, in Via Vittorio Emanuele you can see Villa Migliavacca, the work of the Milanese architect Bot- toli, built in 1913 for Antonio Migliavacca, a pioneer in valorising LC0102-THE CHARM OF TIME: TOUR AMONG HISTORICAL BUILDINGS tourism in the Valsassina. Currently the seat of municipal administra- LC0102 - IL FASCINO DELAND TEMPO: MODERN TOUR TRA SCULPTURES PALAZZI STORICI E SCULTURE MODERNE tion, the building in neo-medieval style, is set in the scenery of a large 786.2 m garden.

750 m

700 m

650 m Elevation

600 m

550 m 527.5 m 0 km 5 km 20 km 15 km 10 km

Distance 22.7538 km

Ride length: 22,7 km (a fairly stiff climb to Introbio - 600 M - and to Barzio - 1.5 km)

Connection with time trial: LC01 Ballabio - Piani Resinelli Troggia Waterfall

68 69 Lecco province LC0102. Introbio - Barzio Cultural itinerary

A few metres from the Villa, a leap back in time takes you to the Torre SECOND STAGE: BARZIO degli Arrigoni, built in the XIIth century as a watch tower over the A ride of some 7 km (mostly along the cycle path) leads to another moth of the Troggia valley (rich in mineral deposits). leap in the history of art and architecture in the Valsassina: Palazzo The tower is linked to two cruel anecdotes. Towards the end of the Manzoni at Barzio. fourteenth century it was the scene of a bloody encounter between This is a late sixteenth century Baroque palace, recognised as a na- the local Guelfi and Ghibellini and in 1531 it was the bastion defend- tional monument in 1930: it was owned by the Manzoni of which ing the valley against the Grigioni, allies of the Duke of Milan in the the great author and poet was a scion. struggle which saw him opposing Gian Giacomo Medici, Lord of the The external façade carries a plaque with a bronze medallion dedi- valley and of Lario: the projectiles launched by the Grigioni are still cated to Tranquillo Baruffaldi, a noble from Barzi, one of Garibaldi’s lodged in the roof beams. Thousand volunteers and a member of the Baruffaldi family which took ownership of the building in the 1800’s. Access to the building is through a main wooden door, decorated by an excellent seventeenth century portal in stone which leads to the master’s courtyard where you’ll seethe family coat of arms, a well with a classical style gable and a cross shaped portico. Inside the palace, the Civic Room is of particular interest, sited to the left of the entrance, with a frescoed ceiling vault decorated in late Baroque style with a coat of arms carved into the marble fireplace. The building is now the seat of the municipal administration and of the civic library: exhibitions and cultural events are also regularly organised and hosted there. Just a few metres separate you from a leap of several centuries: you leave the Baroque for the world of modern art. Via Baruffaldi houses a Museum dedicated to Medardo Rosso, a late impressionist sculptor of international fame, acclaimed by critics for a capacity to catch and impress the moment in wax, the material of preference for his works. The Medardo Rosso Museum, inaugurated in 1928, is housed in the old deconsecrated Saint John the Baptist oratory. The museum now hosts many of the works of this sculptor who holidayed in Barzio: of these we recommend “The Man Reading”, “Sick Man in Hospital”, “La Femme à la voilette”, the “Ecce Puer”, the “Conversation in the Garden” and the “Babe at Breast “, created at the turn of the XIXth and XXth centuries. The artist’s sculpture is immaterial and creates a particular atmosphere which bears the messages of human sentiments and of the intimate depths of the soul. Visits to the museum are by appointment only. Following the Introbio road and turning through the fields into via Sottoripe you return to the car park in after about 3 km.

Palazzo Manzoni at Barzio

70 71 Lecco province LC0103. Barzio - Introbio - Primaluna - Corte nova Nature itinerary

THE CYCLE PATH ALONG THE PIOVERNA TORRENT

THEME The Pioverna runs along almost the entire length of the Valsassina, springing from the Grigna and flowing into Lake Como at Bellano, creating the exciting dell’Orrido waterfall. It is a tumultuous watercourse, with more or less impetuous sections, lived by anglers of all kinds who flock to its’ banks every week. The cycle path from Barzio to Cortenova flanks a good part of its’ course. The path is of interest not just to nature lovers, who appreciate the dancing waters along the stream and the wide expanses of green meadows, it can also prove stimulating to lovers of open air sports like riding and sports angling. There are several stables along the itinerary, as well as an artificial lake and a section of the stream equipped for fishing.

ALONG THE VALSASSINA CYCLE PATH The cycle path, which begins in the immediate vicinity of the Val- sassina Mountain Community car park at Barzio, follows the Pioverna stream for 11 km, connecting Barzio with Ponte San Pietro di Corten- ova, passing by the villages of Pasturo, Introbio and Primaluna. The cascades formed by the waters of the stream along its’ course are

LC0103LC0103 - CYCLING - CICLABILE PATH LUNGO ALONG IL TORRENTE PIOVERNA PIOVERNA STREAM

604.3 m 600 m

580 m

560 m

540 m

Elevation 520 m

500 m

480 m

467 m 8 km 0 km 2 km 3 km 5 km 7 km 9 km 1 km 6 km 4 km 9.2552 km Distance

Ride length: 9,2 km

Connection with time trial: Cycling Path along LC01Ballabio - Piani Resinelli th Pioverna Stream

72 73 Lecco province LC0103. Barzio - Introbio - Primaluna - Corte nova Nature itinerary of particular natural interest; open air sports lovers can also stop at The azienda Agricola e agrituristica Le Tre Casine offers food with typ- agri-tourism companies/holiday farms with stables or go sports an- ical local produce and specialises in the production and sale of foods gling at an artificial lake and along some sections of the Pioverna tor- such as honey, jam, fresh yoghurt and fresh fruit; you can also pur- rent. chase mountain herb and flower based cosmetic products including Calendula and Arnica creams. Leaving the car park, at Prà Buscante there are two holiday farms one Along the cycle path there are many interesting places for lovers of of which has stables: the Maneggio Ranch La Fornace offers riding sports angling: the fish species in the stream are mainly Fario trout, lessons and trips for individuals and groups as well as typical local some char and rarely rainbow trout. dishes, while the Azienda Agricola Invernizzi specialises in the pro- At Cortabbio, an area of Primaluna, the Società Agricola Trota Val- duction and sale of dairy products. sassina offers angles its’ artificial lake; the centre provides rods, lines Following the cycle path towards Primaluna village there are other and bait and you pay for the fish caught by weight. agri-tourism companies/holiday farms. The azienda Agricola Agritur- In 2005, at the end of the cycle path, the Riserva pronta pesca (Ready ismo di Nigro Simona offers food and sells typical local produce as fish reserve) was opened between Ponte S. Pietro and Ponte di Corten- well as having stables offering English and American riding lessons ova. The reserve can only be fished if you have the appropriate license and farriery. (Italian Sports Fishing Federation Card) or, alternatively, a holiday fish- The agriturismo Due Soli, which lies within the North Grigna Regional ing permit, and the fish marking permit for access to ready fishing Park, specialises in forage and vegetables and raises sheep and goats. zones. The companies offers tastings and sells the fresh cheeses typical of Each angler may use a single rod, with or without reel: the fishing the area, in particular blue and mature goat’s milk cheeses. The farm styles permitted are with float, touch, spinning, fly fishing with leader. is also a participant in the ”Panda Project”, an initiative promoted in Angling is permitted every day except Wednesday at the following Italy by the WWF, with the scope of making holiday farms sited in times: parks a centre of knowledge of the environment, history, culture and • 1 April to 30 September from 7:00 to 20:00; traditions of the surrounding area. • 1 October to 31 March from 8:00 to 17:00. The agriturismo Cascina Trote Blu specialises in producing natural honey and offers food with typical local produce. It also has stables which offer riding tours, private and group riding lessons for all ability levels.

Pioverna Stream View fo the Pioverna Valley Bottom

74 75 Cannobio Municipality Mountain time trials Relaxing itineraries

annobio is the last village along the shore of Lake Maggiore be- The relaxing Itineraries proposed, which begin in the vicinity of the Cfore the Swiss border and is, today, one of the most important and Cannobio - Sant’Agata mountain time trial, being within the bound- popular resorts in the Verbano Cusio Ossola area. aries of a single municipality, are shorter than those in the Provinces A short mountain time trial was chosen for this municipality, albeit of Lecco and Como, yet no less interesting in terms of nature, history with fairly difficult gradients: the route winds from the town centre and the arts. proceeding northwards to the climb up to Sant’Agata. The climb is particularly interesting and pleasant from the natural point of view as it offers wonderful panoramas towards Lake Mag- giore and its’ Eastern shore.

76 77 Cannobio Municipality CA01. Cannobio - Sant’Agata Mountain time trial

Characteristics and route Cannobio is the last Italian settlement on the Piedmont shore of Lake Maggiore; then, from the border post at Piaggio Valmara, one enters Switzerland an right along this section of the road, between the town and the border, you find the start of the climb to Sant’Agata. Leaving the short section of paved road in the town centre, proceed towards the border, along the log straight leading to the camp sites and sports centre. At the end of the straight, a series of big curves leads to the start of the climb, on the left, immediately after the camping del Bosco (just over 1 km from the town centre). The road sign shows 2.5 km, but the real length is 3.3 km, confirmed by the ancient milestone close by. The climb isn’t particularly hard, but it shouldn’t be underestimated because the slope is constant; the repeated switchback bends make the climb less difficult. After about 2 km you reach Campeglio, where the climb remains constant and quite hard. Another series of curves and then a 300 metre final straight lead to the small piazza Sant’Agata, where a breathtaking panorama of Can- nobio and Lake Maggiore is to be enjoyed.

CA01 - HILL CLIMB CANNOBIO - SANT'AGATA CA01 - CRONOSCALATA CANNOBIO - SANT’AGATA

471.1 m 450 m

400 m

350 m

Elevation 300 m

250 m

200 m 199 m 4 km 5 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km 5.1824 km Distance

Start location: Cannobio (metri 218) Finish location: Sant’Agata (metri 469) Length: 5,2 km (tutta in salita) Difference in altitude: 251 m Average gradient: 4,8% Maximum gradient: 10% Finish of the Mountain Time Trial

78 79 Cannobio Municipality CA0101. History / cultural itinerary

A RETURN TO THE PAST: A TOUR OF MEDIEVAL CANNOBIO

THEME The discovery of several burials, perhaps pre-Roman, demonstrate the antiquity of the first settlements on this site which, considering its’ geographical position, which must have been an important strategic and commercial centre in Roman times. The seat of a curtis regia during the early Middle Ages, then the centre of a vast parish dependent on the Bishops of Milan, between the XIIth and XIIIth centuries Cannobio became a free, autonomous commune, remaining so until 1342, when it submitted spontaneously to the Vis- conti who governed it until it became the feud of Vitaliano Borromeo in 1441. Much evidence of the Middle Ages is preserved in the gracious historic centre; there is more evidence in the many palaces elegantly facing on the cobbled roads and streets. This itinerary offers a route interspersed by visits to medieval buildings – the seats of political and spiritual power – and to the ancient streets of the this burg which give a good idea of the atmosphere of those times.

THE ROUTE

CA0101 - BACK TO PAST A TOUR IN MEDIEVAL CANNOBIO Riding from the car park in Piazza Martiri della Libertà at the Lido di CA0101 - RITORNO AL PASSATO: UN TOUR NELLA CANNOBIO MEDIOEVALE Cannobio, following the lakeside you come to Via Castello. During

496.4 m the Middle Ages this ancient road, which runs parallel to the lakeside, with its’ ancient home and particular steps down to the Lake, was the 450 m connection to the fortress of Cannobio which was destroyed in 1340 400 m by the neighbouring Helvetians, perhaps as an act of retaliation against the tolls levied on lake traffic. The streets were specifically de- 350 m signed, narrow and closed in by high buildings, to better enable de- Elevation 300 m fence against enemy incursions from the lake. At the end of the road (some 300 metres) you reach the rear of the 250 m piazza where the church of the S.S.Pietà. Its’ story is linked with a 200 m 199.9 m miraculous event at the site in 1522: in a humble hostelry, a painting 8 km 0 km 2 km 6 km 4 km

10 km of Christ on the Cross began to drip blood and tears, while a fragment

10.4725 km of human rib bulged from His ribs. Today that painting and several Distance bloody cloths, belonging to those who witnessed the event, are cher- ished in a niche of the high altar of the Sanctuary, while the Holy Rib is conserved in a reliquary casket in the Collegiate church of San Vit- Ride length: tore. 10,5 km From Piazza S.S.Pietà, taking Via Luigi Meschio after some 600 metres you reach the political and spiritual centre of power of this medieval Connection with time trial: burg. Standing next to each other the collegiate church of San Vittore CA01 Cannobio - Sant’Agata and the ancient Palace of Reason, now called the Parasio Palace.

80 81 Cannobio Municipality CA0101. History / cultural itinerary

The buildings share the old bell tower of medieval layout (built at the Superiore, but its’ origins are as early as the ninth century. turn of the XIIth and XIIth centuries), when two types of bells for To the sides of the spur on which the hamlet stands there are five rung, one for religious celebrations and the other for civil calls and streams surrounded by a great number of terraces where vines, the for public executions. treasure of the ancient populations, were cultivated. The Parasio Palace was built in 1200 as the seat of political power in The church of San Gottardo is another treasure with its’ wonderful Ro- the town; it is well preserved today, and it hosted the assizes on the manesque bell tower and the piazza built over an ancient cemetery ground floor and the general council of the community on the first where, during the plague of 1600 (described in the “Betrothed”), hun- floor. dreds were buried. The Collegiate church was built beginning in 1730 on the site of a The church was built and completed in two stages: a first phase from medieval church. Inside it hosts the reliquary of the Holy Rib linked 1332 to 1401, and a second concluded in 1431. These diverse build- with the miracle of the painting which bled. The reliquary is displayed ing periods are easily recognised by the steps which serve to connect in the church solely on the recurrence of the “luminèri”, a procession the two parts. in memory of the miracle, organised on 8 January each year. There San Gottardo is a casket of artistic treasures of great value, dated from are also important works such as the timber cross from the 1500’s in the XVth and XVIth centuries. There are internal and external frescoes the chapel of the Annunciation and, and the chapel “of the Dead”, mainly attributed to the “Maestro di Carzoneso”, mostly illustrating two fourteenth century triptychs of great value from the church of S. bible scenes. These treasures remained hidden for many centuries be- Gottardo a Carmine Superiore. cause, after the plague in 1630, a period when many of the inhabi- At the far end of the town (in Via Casali Amore) there is a pedestrian tants of Carmine fell sick and sought isolation and refuge at the and cycle path which, through the woods and highly suggestive church, the entire building had to be purified by the application of a panoramic positions, after some 3 km brings you to a medieval jewel: layer of plaster on the walls and, thus, over the precious cycles of fres- The village of Carmine Superiore. coes. Significant restorations in 1932-33 and from 1997 to 2002 Carmine is split into to two hamlets: Carmine inferiore (206 metres managed to restore the ancient splendours of his jewel. From the pi- a.s.l.) on the lake- azza in front of the church side, and Carmine you may enjoy the splen- superiore (305 did panorama towards the metres a.s.l.) a lit- eastern shore of Lake Mag- tle higher, on the giore. slopes of Mount Turing back along the Carza, standing on mountain side path, there a spur of rock ex- are about 4 km to return to tending out to- the car park in Piazza Mar- wards the lake. It is tiri della Libertà. not known who founded Carmine

Our Lady of Pity Church

82 83 Cannobio Municipality CA0102. Nature itinerary

ALONG THE CANNOBINO STREAM: FROM THE VALLEY UPWARDS

THEME The Cannobino stream rises in the valley of the same name, precisely from the peak of the Laurasca; its’ course is typical of a brook in the upper sections, but gradually as it descends to the valley it widens until it becomes a real mountain stream. Its’ course forms basins and very steep precipices crossed by several bridges: after about 25 km it flows into the Cannobio basin where it forms a characteristic waterfall at Sant’Anna; it flows through the town, creating gracious little pebble beaches; finally, about another 2 km onwards, it flows into Lake Maggiore. This itinerary takes you up the course of the Cannobino stopping at the most interesting, suggestive points. From the mouth of the stream, at the Lido di Cannobio car park, you ride the cycle path upstream to reach the Sant’Anna gorge. Once the bridge over the gorge is crossed, to the other bank, its’ just a few km back down to the valley.

THE ROUTE Riding from the car park in Piazza Martiri della Libertà you come immediately to the Lido di Cannobio. Standing at the mouth of the Cannobino and the beginning of the cycle path, it is perhaps the CA0102 - ALONGCA0102 THE - LUNGO CANNOBINO IL TORRENTE RIVER CANNOBINO: FROM DOWNSTREAM DA VALLE A MONTETO UPSTREAM best known and frequented Lido on Lake Maggiore, due both to the 291.6 m 290 m beauty of the area and for the space available; the wind factor cannot 280 m be ignored as it so distinguishes the area that it is recognised as the 270 m best place in Piedmont for sailing activities. Kite-surf, windsurf, cata- 260 m maran and sailboat fans can be found here all year round where 250 m there are also structures to teach these sports. 240 m During the summer season the wide beach and adjacent park host Elevation 230 m hundreds of people. The season also sees the organisation of many 220 m events, both sports and entertainment. 210 m

200 m The green area has a five a side football pitch and 2 beach volley 196.9 m courts; 200 metres there is a tennis club and mini-golf as well as a 5 km 6 km 4 km 7 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km soccer pitch and athletics track. 7.2941 km Distance A cycle path leads directly away from the Lido which follows the left bank of the stream for about 1 km, leading to the Ponte Ballerino (dancing bridge). Recently rebuilt and constructed with wooden slats and rope, it can only be crossed by pedestrians and cyclists who thus Ride length: reach the other bank of the stream. Here the cycle path proceeds for 7,3 km circa another 2.5 km ending in the zone above the Cannobino stream. Here you may be awed by the natural spectacle of the Sant’Anna Connection with time trial: gorge, a cascade of some 25 metres formed by the waters falling tu- CA01 Cannobio - Sant’Agata multuously through a rocky gorge, into a pool surrounded by a

84 85 Cannobio Municipality CA0102. Nature itinerary pretty pebble beach to which there is free access. Crossing the bridge over the gorge you return to Lido di Cannobio The name derives from the Sanctuary built in 1638. Of artistic inter- (through the town) in about 3.5 km. est in the church there are twisted black marble columns in the high altar, precious paintings of the life of St. Anne and the frescoed Madonna di Loreto chapel, which existed prior to this church, whose apse it constitutes, and is probably very ancient.

The Dancing Bridge Waterfall at Sant’Anna

86 87 Cannobio Municipality CA0103. History / cultural itinerary

THE SUN AND MEASURING TIME IN ANTIQUITY: THE SUNDIALS OF CANNOBIO

THEME Sundials are ancient instruments for measuring time based on obser- vation of the sun’s position. The pointer on the sundial, called a stylus or gnomon, is a staff whose shadow projected onto the sundial plate indicates the time. There are several sundials frescoed on the walls of buildings in Cannobio, some in good state, others damaged by time but still suggestive. An additional value of these artistic- astronomical artefacts lies in the fact that today there is limited evidence of these ancient measurers of time past.

THE ROUTE Leaving the car park in Piazza Martiri della Libertà by Via Magistris for a couple of hundred metres, you reach the first sundial on the itinerary, on the South façade of the church of the S.S.Pietà. This sundial was made probably in the XVIIth century and was painted with fresco techniques: most is faded despite a restoration some years ago and there is little trace of the Baroque cornice and of the hour line in Italic hours: in thus type of sundial, sunset is both the end of the day and the beginning of the next day; the twenty fourth is indeed that in

CA0103 - THE SUN AND OLD TIME MEASUREMENTS, SUNDIALS which the sun set. CA0103 - IL SOLE E LE ANTICHE MISURAZIONI DEL TEMPO: LE MERIDIANE Proceeding along the 263.6 m 260 m lakeside then turning into Via Zaccheo (which be- 250 m comes via Cimitero) you

240 m come to the sundial in via De Luatti. Built in the 230 m XXth century, the sundial Elevation 220 m is on the South face of a

210 m private house with a ter-

200 m race. Oval in shape, it is 196.9 m drawn in tempera en- 2 km 5 km 6 km 4 km 7 km 0 km 1 km 3 km closed in a false cornice; it 7.263 km Distance has nine hour lines in roman numerals from eight to four in the after- noon, and also shows the Ride length: half hours. 7,3 km circa Proceeding along via Cimitero you find, on Connection with time trial: your left, the road lead- CA01 Cannobio - Sant’Agata Sundial in via De Luatti ing to the ponte Ballerino

88 89 Cannobio Municipality CA0103. History / cultural itinerary

(Dancing bridge): cross the bridge and take the cycle path to the Sant’Anna gorge in the Traffiume quarter (about 3km). Descending to the valley in Via alla Piana, you find the church of the Our Lady, whose bell tower has sundials on three sides: Southeast, South and West. The sundial on the Southeast side was created in about the XVIIth century with fresco techniques with sinopite incision on plaster: you may decipher the hour lines, with spear points and Roman hours, crossed by nine hour lines with partially legible Arab numbers. On the West side, created with the same fresco technique, you may make out nine hour lines terminating in spear points crossing another seven hour lines. Finally on the South side, again a fresco, thirteen hour lines are visible, as is the local midday line: the numbers, almost illegible now, are in Roman numerals, with some of the letters of an illegible motto are still vaguely visible. Proceeding by via alla Piana for about 1 km, you reach via Casali Lig- nago, where you’ll find the last sundial on the itinerary, set on the South-western part of a private villa built in the last century The image was created in acrylic paint on an ivory white background. The solar quadrant is enclosed in a cornice decorated with floral arabesques. The six hours, are French style, from midday to 5 p.m. The half hour segments are also present, with the same numbering. 1.5 km further on turn into via Casali Darbedo (towards the centre - via Vittorio Veneto) which brings you back to the Lido di Cannobio.

Church of the Holy Virgin at Traffiume

90 91 Brissago Municipality Sports routes Relaxing itineraries

rissago is the last town in the Canton Ticino before the Italian bor- various hamlets, influenced the choice of relaxing itineraries which, Bder. It is split into fifteen hamlets which spread along the hill from by their nature, suggest their use by cyclists unprepared for difficult the lake to the mountains. climbs. For specialist cycle-tourists, two sports routes have been prepared This is why, for each itinerary presented, we preferred defining two at Brissago which, unlike the mountain time trials, do not having tim- different routes: the first shorter, feasible for all occasional cyclists ing systems. ready to make a little effort, while the second is the full route which, given numerous sections of difficult climbs, can only be approached Both routes have been used at times as hill climb routes. by those well prepared, with a suitable bike which allows them to use Bouth itineraries begin at Piazza Municipio. The first route climbs low gear ratios. along the Costa di Mezzo road to the car park at Mergugno, over 8,1 We suggest that amateur cyclists complete the courses, in any case, kilometres with a total climb of 846 metres (average slopes of 10%). on foot, as they offer highly suggestive views and a breathtaking The second route follows the Costa di Fuori road to the car park at panorama over the lake. Cortaccio. It is 7,6 kilometres in length with a total climb of over 800 metres (average slopes of 9,6%). Except for the start, in an urban area, the routes run through chestnut forest and roads almost free of vehicle traffic. The particular territorial conformation of the municipality, with a central nucleus overlooking the lake, with roads climbing away to the

92 93 Brissago Municipality Sports itinerary BS01. Brissago - Mergugno BS02. Brissago - Cortaccio

BS01BS01 - - SPORT ITINERARIO TRACK SPORT BRISSAGO BRISSAGO - PORBETTO - MERGUGNO BS02B02 -- ITINERARIOSPORT TRACK SPORT BRISSAGO BRISSAGO - -BOREI CORTACCIO

708.9 m 1050.6 m 700 m 1000 m

900 m 600 m 600 m

500 m 700 m

600 m Elevation 400 m Elevation 500 m

400 m 300 m 300 m

215.6 m 214 m 4 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km 5 km 6 km 7 km 4 km 0 km 1 km 3 km 2 km 4.6864 km 7.6538 km Distance Distance

Start location: Brissago (214 m) Start location: Brissago (214 m) Finish location: Mergugno (1.037 m) Finish location: Cortaccio (1.067 m) Length: 8,1 km Length: 7,6 km Difference in altitude: 846 m Difference in altitude: 837 m Average gradient: 10,5% Average gradient: 9,6%

94 95 Brissago Municipality BS0101. Brissago - Ronco Sopra Ascona Religious itinerary

PLACE OF WORSHIP: CHURCHES, SANCTUARIES AND VOTIVE CHAPELS

THEME The itinerary wanders between the municipalities of Brissago and Ronco sopra Ascona and introduces the most interesting places of worship in the area. Some of these churches are of particular artistic and historical relevance, from the Sacro Monte complex, with the Sanctuary and the via Crucis chapels, and certain votive chapels locate in isolated natural settings, most suggestive, transmitting a sense of contemplative peacefulness.

THE ROUTE Starting from the car park in Piazza del Municipio after a couple of hundred metres, still in the town, you r reach the first church on the itinerary: the Chapel of Saints Peter and Paul. Built on top of a previous Roman construction, it was designed in 1526 and completed in 1610 by the architect, Giovanni Beretta. The bell tower, in rustic stone, and the churchyard before the portal are a little later (1665). The current façade is from the same year, completed by Berettas son, Pietro, with a portal surmounted by an opening in the channelled columns with Corinthian captals. Inside, along the single nave, the play of shadow and light which

BS0101 - WORSHIP PLACES: CHURCHES, SHRINES AND VOTIVE CHAPELS mark the articulation of the arches, vaults, cupola and chapels are BS0101 - LUOGHI DI CULTO: CHIESE, SANTUARI E CAPPELLE VOTIVE (Itinerario completo) merged in harmony with the architectural elements, thanks to a sug- 577.9 m gestive chromatic effect offered by the raw stone used: a polychrome granite. 500 m The chapels are decorated with many altars, of which just two are sixteenth century, and of these only the sides and rear remain: the altar

400 m said to be to S. Carlo (1619) and that to S. Caterina (1621), attributable to Pietro Beretta. On the S. Carlo altar there is a painting by G. Elevation Andrea Bianchi, called the Vespino (1620). 300 m The high altar was decorated (1969) by Giovanni Genucchi: it depicts the Parousia, the Last Supper, the Deposition and the Resurrection. 206.1 m The glazing is also recent, by Hans Slocker. The organ is also very in- 4 km 6 km 8 km 0 km 2 km

10 km 12 km 14 km teresting, work by local carvers, dated at the end of the seventeenth

14.8095 km century. Distance Going up via Leoncavallo, along the Canton road for just under a km,

Length of the short itinerary: Length of the full itinerary: 3.2 km (climb to the Sacro Monte difficult) 14,8 km (constantly climbing on the via Panoramica)

96 97 Brissago Municipality BS0101. Brissago - Ronco Sopra Ascona Religious itinerary you reach the church of the Madonna of the Bridge standing outside 1773 of an existing church on the site. the village, as it serves various hamlets along the shore and up the The Sanctuary is reached by following the Via Crucis which begins in mountain. Mentioned as early as the twelfth century, the church was Via Gerusalemme (chapels with works by Friar Roberto Pasotti, 1999- completely rebuilt in the second decade of the fifteenth century to a 2000), or following the water mill path in the valley. The two routes design by Giovanni Beretta who dealt in particular with the project meet towards the ninth chapel, called “of the Jews”, close to the Sanc- for the façade, the great door and the bell tower. The façade presents tuary. From the yard there is a splendid panorama over the village clear Renaissance lines and inside you find the single nave with two and the lake below. chapels; the first and third arches are vaulted, the central arch is The baroque building includes the church of the Addolorata and the crossed. Noteworthy the baroque altars to the Madonna Assunta, by parish house (it was once the rector’s palace); to the side there is a G.P. Fossati (1686), and to S. Macarius, by Pietro Beretta (1594); on miraculous fountains (Fonte Vittoria). the rear wall of the choir there is a fresco of the Assumption of Mary, The ostentation typical of the late seventeenth century period is an anonymous work (late fifteenth century). A moment under the ex- found, in particular, in the richness of the capital, in the stuccoes in ternal arcade of the church is rewarding at sunset, you can admire a the vaults, in the picture frames. The Rococo stuccoes are the work of magnificent setting sun reflected on the surface if the lake and on Visetti di Valsolda. The frescoes of Saints Peter and Paul on the pillars the surrounding mountains. of the triumphal arch are by Giuseppe Antonio Felice Orelli, as are Climbing along the Costa di Mezzo for some 1.3 km, after the Al- those in the vault ribs with the figures of St. Joseph and other saints. bergo Brenscino, you reach the Sacro Monte complex. Set in a The main altar has concave section with polychrome marbles (1773) wooded valley, it consists of the Sanctuary of Addolorata and of the and to the sides shows the arms of the Branca family; the other altars Via Crucis. A. F. Branca, the owner of the palace of the same name host paintings by Bellotti di Valsolda. The Holy Friday procession was (now palazzo Baccalà) arranged the extension between 1767 and reintroduced a few years ago, from the “Gerusalemme” zone (the beginning of the via Crucis) culminating with the celebration of the Eu- charist in the Church of the Addolorata. The Via Sacro Monte ends at a junction: if you wish to follow the short routes, take the downward slope (Via Costa di Dentro) which, in about 1.2 km returns to the car park in Piazza del Municipio; to continue the full route, take the ascent to the left towards the Via Panoramica. After the two steep hairpin curves you come to the Oratory of Saint Bartholomew (in the hamlet of Porta), which, already there in medieval times, was recently rebuilt in a modern style (the external walls are all stone finished, to cite local tradition). Leaving Brissago village behind, following the suggestive via Panoramica for some 5 km, you reach Ronco sopra Ascona where, following the Matterello path, you’ll encounter two pretty votive chapels: the Capèla de Nusétt and the Capèla del Mattaréll. The first, closed to the wash house at Ronco, was restored and the inside decorated in 1940 by the Polish painter Richard Seewald (he lived at Ronco Sopra Ascona for many years). The name “Nusétt” derives from the fact that zone where the chapel stands hosted many walnut trees, whose oil was used for both food and light. The second chapel, sited west along the Materéll path, has a small altar. At the threshold a large stone bears the date 1790, when, it is supposed, it was built. Inside you may observe the small altar and a pretty fresco depicting a Madonna di Loreto, between Saints Peter and Antony. Entering the centre of the village, in Piazza Semitori, you find the Sacred Mount

98 99 Brissago Municipality BS0101. Brissago - Ronco Sopra Ascona Religious itinerary

Saint Martin’s church. The building, dedicated to the village’s patron Saint Martin as orator. saint, stands on the edge of the ancient village, on a rock peak over- The most interesting frescoes are above the choir and show Allegories looking the lake creating a privileged belvedere with its’ panoramic, of the Months (from 1491). These frescoes, recently restored, bear open view space under an centuries old chestnut tree. witness not only to the fertility of the Terra di Ronco but also the The church layout is from the fourteenth century while the bell tower habits and costumes of local inhabitants during the fourteenth cen- was completed in 1563 and crowned with an octagonal lantern in tury. 1860; the façade is neoclassical in style and opens on a small square Taking via Livurcio towards Arcegno, you find the chapels of Saint enriched by a columned portico. Gutard and de Grupalt. The San Gutard chapel, located close to the The inside of the church, in Baroque style, consists of a single nave village cemetery, is reached by a short stair down towards the valley. with three altars to the left dedicated to the Addolorata, to the Rosary The inside hosts a fresco of a Madonna portrayed in a group of Saints, and to Saint Rocco. The frescoes and paintings are worthy of note, as including, obviously, Saint Gotthard. The Grupalt chapel, along an are the altarpieces in scagliola (a coloured plaster technique, once old mule track which used to lead to Arcegno, was the only building known as poor man’s marble). The right wall of the nave features a in this zone until the 1940’s. The chapel is also visible from the road late Gothic fresco of Saints Defendent and Fabrian, and indeed an oil which now runs lower downhill from the onetime mule track. Under painting by Antonio Ciseri portraying Saint Anthony the Abbot. Then the portico there is a white marble remembrance of the Work of the confirming the migratory influx of Ronco folk towards Tuscany, you Ronchesi in the customs houses of Florence and Pistoia. find the frescoes in the nave vault, and indeed the balustrades and Returning along the roads, it is some 6.5 km to the car park in Piazza the fifteenth century portrait of the Madonna and Saints Rocco and Municipio at Brissago. Sebastian, from Florence. The high altar (perhaps from the second Alternatively, returning to the centre of the villages, you can rejoin half of the seventeenth century) is very good and is surmounted by the Canton road following via Ronco which is, however, very busy. an altarpiece which hosts another Antonio Ciseri painting portraying Panoramic View

100 101 Brissago Municipality BS0102. Brissago - Ronco Sopra Ascona Cultural itinerary

HISTORIC BUILDINGS AND PEOPLE

THEME The tour offers a visit to several historic buildings which give testimony and celebrate the presence of several outstanding personages who lived in the municipalities of Brissago and Ronco sopra Ascona. Specifically, Brissago hosted the Neapolitan composers Ruggero Leoncavallo (1857-1919) for several years, and he wrote divers works and pianoforte compositions in these wonderful places. Brissago has dedicated a museum to this honorary citizen in the historic Palazzo Branca Baccalà, with a collection of documents and me- mentos of great interest. He is remembered each year with the “Festival Leoncavallo” directed by the Brissago tenor Ottavio Palmieri. Over the years, the festival has had guests of international renown of the calibre of Renato Bruson, Francesca Patané, il Quartetto Amati. The event is held over three weekends with a musical offering ranging from fine singing to exploration of new musical territory. Ronco sopra Ascona saw the birth of the eighteenth century painter Antonio Ciseri. His recognition as an artist of international fame is as the principal exponent of religious painting in the nineteenth century in the Ticino. The painters place of birth and the Cà dei Pitur (Painter’s House in local dialect), his home purchased by his family may both

BS0102 - BUILDINGS AND HISTORIC CHARACTERS be visited. BS0102 - EDIFICI E PERSONAGGI STORICI

577.9 m FIRST STAGE: BRISSAGO Starting from the car parkin Piazza del Municipio within a couple of 500 m hundred metres you reach the Baroque Palazzo Branca Baccalà. After diverse demolitions and the recent external restoration, the Palazzo is the fulcrum of what could have been considered almost a self sus- 400 m taining residential centre, consisting of the family home, service build- Elevation ing, yards, stales and gardens extending throughout the eastern 300 m quarter of the burg. A memento of this magnificence remains in the piazza with the well in front of the Palazzo. The complex building his-

205.4 m tory of palazzo Branca, transformed and extended many times, began 6 km 8 km 4 km 0 km 2 km in the decades around 1700. The grandiose view opening towards 10 km 12 km

12.452 km the lake reveals a distinct sense of architecture representative of great Distance artistic worth. Indoors, somewhat traditional, there are still some ceil-

Length of the short itinerary: Length of the full itinerary: 2,2 km 11 km (constantly climbing on the via Panoramica)

102 103 Brissago Municipality BS0102. Brissago - Ronco Sopra Ascona Cultural itinerary ings painted on paper and a trompe l’oeil cupola with plants, fruit house in Ronco. With its’ small tower, the ancient dovecote and its’ and decorative motifs on a wooden ceiling. elegant entrance courtyard, attributed to the architect Francesco Mes- The Palazzo today houses the Ruggero Leoncavallo museum, exhibit- chini, the house faces onto the small piazza dei Semitori in front of ing collections of documents and mementoes of Leoncavallo of great Saint Martin’s church. On the ground floor you may admire two neo- value to both music aficionados and for researchers. classical rooms decorated with the paintings by the brothers Giuseppe About 1 km further on, in the yard of the Madonna of the Bridge and Francesco Ciseri, the Apses room and the Engaged Couple room. church, a simple gravestone in the floor, suggestively lit by the rays The former takes its’ name from the two apses which distinguish it of sunlight which filter through the church arches, marks the com- and it has a richly decorated box ceiling with neoclassical motifs. The poser’s tomb. latter is named for the frescoes with scenes of Lake Como and char- Following via Ovega you may return immediately to the car park in acters from the Betrothed by Alessandro Manzoni. Piazza del Municipio (short route for occasional cyclists) or, to com- The upper floor is the so called mezzanine, used in the winter. On the plete the full itinerary, climb up to the Sacro Monte complex and pro- top floor elegant bedrooms with mural ornaments and floors in two ceed along the via Panoramica (amateur riders should walk this colour terracotta open onto the walled arch balcony which runs all section). along the façade. Used from 1982 to 1988 as a family museum, today the house, which SECOND STAGE: RONCO SOPRA ASCONA still belongs to the Ciseri family, is only partially open to the public Leaving Brissago along the via Panoramica towards Arcegno, after as it is still a private residence. The ground floor hosts the Ciseri Cul- about 5.5 km you reach Ronco sopra Ascona, where you find, in via tural Centre operated by the Istituto Terapeutico La Motta di Brissago. Ciseri, the Cà Ciseri. This eighteenth century corner house, where the The Centre, which has an art gallery and sells original gift items and painter Antonio Ciseri was born is the most representative private works of art, is the only part of the house which can still be visited and is hosted in the two neoclassical rooms which can, thus, still be admired. In the immediate vicinity, in Vicolo Busbai, there is another building linked with the Ciseri family: la Cà dei Pitur. This house, which belonged to the Spigaglia family of painters, has an older section of medieval origin, as shown by the elegant entrance portal and an ancient ground floor wine cellar, to which diverse elements were gradually added. The paintings outside are excellent, with outstanding decoration of the neoclassical façade and in the small courtyard there are three pretty medallions frescoed with religious themes. The south wing of the house is of particular artistic importance, with an eighteenth century room entirely decorated in trompe l’oeil and a room with a pretty ceiling painted with decorative motifs. The house will shortly be subject to conservative restoration.

Museum Leoncavallo

104 105 Tourist information Tourist information offices Tourist information offices

Como (Como Province) Cannobio (Verbano-Cusio-Ossola Province) Tourist Information Office Pro Cannobio Tourist Office Address: Piazza Cavour, 17 Address: Via Giovanola, 25 Tel.: +39.031.269712 Tel.: +39.0323.71212 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] www.lakecomo.it web site: www.procannobio.it Open all year Brissago (Canton Ticino - Switzerland) Bellagio (Como Province) Lake Maggiore Tourist Board Tourist Information Office Address: Via Leoncavallo, 25 Address: Piazza Mazzini (imbarcadero) Tel.: +41.091.7930154 Tel.: +39.031.950204 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] web site: www.ascona-locarno.com web site: www.bellagiolakecomo.com www.lakecomo.it

Canzo (Como Province) Tourist Information Office Address: Piazza Garibaldi, 5 Tel.: +39.331.9939726 E-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.nonsoloturismo.net

Menaggio (Como) Tourist Information Office Link to official web sites Indirizzo: Piazza Garbaldi, 8 Tel.: +39.0344.32924 E-mail: [email protected] web site: www.menaggio.com Como Province: www.lakecomo.it www.provincia.como.it / www.lakecomo.it

Lecco (Lecco Province) Tourist Information Office Address: Via N. Sauro, 6 Lecco Province: Tel.: +39.0341.295720 www.provincia.lecco.it / www.lakecomo.it E-mail: [email protected] www.lakecomo.it Open all year Cannobio Municipality: Barzio (Lecco Province) www.cannobio.net / www.procannobio.it Tourist Information Office Address: Piazza Garibaldi Tel.: +39.0341.996255 [email protected] Brissago Municipality: www.brissago.ch / www.ascona-locarno.com

106 107 “Bike” accomodation

51 different accommodation venues in the region involved in the Town “Bike Sports and Relaxation” project have signed on for the project Name ”Star” Address Phone partner initiative, which is aimed at establishing a range of bike-ori- rating ented accommodations specifically devoted to bike tourists: COMO PROVINCE

27 Bike Hotels Brunate 16 B&Bike’s Hotel Paradiso sul Lago 3 Via Scalini 70 +39 031 364099 4 Bike-Camping Grounds 1 Agri-Bike Bellagio 1 Bike-Residential Hotel Albergo Silvio 3 Via Carcano, 12 - Loppia +39 031 950322 1 Bike-Shelter Hotel Belvedere 3 Via Valassina 31 +39 031 950410 1 Bike-House Hotel Il Perlo Panorama 2 Via Valassina 180 +39 031 950229 Castiglione Intelvi To obtain this “Bike” label, these businesses have to guarantee their Camping Ai Colli Fioriti 3 Via Case Sparse 10 +39 031 830564 guests the following minimum services: • secure storage area for bikes inside the facility Cernobbio • proximity to places of interest for bike tourists (trails and itineraries Albergo Centrale 3 Via Regina 39 +39 031 511411 for specialists and general cyclists) Civenna • offer of informational materials for bike tourists (guides, maps, top- Hotel Mirabeau 3 Via Provinciale 79 +39 031 963186 ical brochures) • basic information and technical assistance for users: presence at Como the facility of an internal workshop for minor repairs, or a signed B&B Rezzonico Graziella Via Varesina 136 +39 031 520038 agreement with a specialised mechanic Grand Hotel di Como 4 Via Per Cernobbio 41A +39 031 5161 Hotel Como 4 Via Mentana 28 +39 031 266173 Many facilities decided to offer additional, superior services, such as Domaso rental bikes, special discounts for bike-tourist individuals or groups, Camping North Wind 2 Via Case Sparse 170 +39 0344 97418 booking of lodgings for the next stopover, baggage transport to the next stopover, contact with a physician or physiotherapist for minor Erba accidents, “on request” menu for cyclists, possibility of preparing Hotel Leonardo da Vinci 4 Via L. da Vinci 6 +39 031 611556 snacks or “bag lunches,” etc. Lomazzo Just Hotel Lomazzo Fiera 4 Via Ceresio 49 +39 02 96941801 Hence the “Bike Sports and Relaxation” project did not stop with the classic approach of setting up itineraries and communications but – Merone through consulting and technical support offered to local tourism op- Hotel Il Corazziere 4 Via Mazzini 2 +39 031 617181 erators – favoured the construction of a specialised tourism offer geared to the bike tourist segment. Monguzzo Hotel Nastro Azzurro 3 Via Chiesa 8 +39 031 617373 Go to the project web site (www.cicloviadeilaghi.it/sporterelaxinbici - Montano Lucino “Accomodation”) to display the facilities map and details Hotel Cruise 4 Via Carducci 3 +39 031 478301

Pusiano B&B Leon d’Oro Piazza Parini 2 +39 031 658865

Sorico B&B Il Nido dello Svasso Via Vittorio Emanuele 41/a +39 0344 94027

108 109 “Bike” accomodation

Town Town Name ”Star” Address Phone Name ”Star” Address Phone rating rating

Valbrona Pescate Albergo ristorante Sala 2 Via Vittorio Veneto, 21 +39 031 661023 Hotel Le Torrette 3 Via Roma 151 +39 0341 272885

Zelbio Primaluna B&B Il Tivano Via Monti di Là 2 +39 338 8832554 B&B La Vigna Via della Vigna 5/a +39 0341 981148 Albergo National 2 Via Rimembranze 1 +39 031 917931 Tremenico B&B Valvaron Via Caduti di Guerra 6 +39 0341 875133 LECCO PROVINCE Abbadia Lariana Valtorta Camping Spiaggia 3 Via al Campeggio 5 +39 0341 731621 Rifugio Grassi Passo Camisòlo (1.987 m.) +39 348 8522784

Ballabio Varenna Camping Grigna Residence 4 Via Prato Caminaccio, 1 - Balisio +39 0341 232045 Hotel Montecodeno 3 Via Croce 2 +39 0341 830123

Barzanò Vercurago Red’s Redaelli Hotel 4 Via Don Rinaldo Beretta 24 +39 039 9272120 Affittacamere Sirena Via Roma 15 +39 0341 420221

Bellano B&B La Casa delle rondini Frazione Oro 20 +39 0341 820586 CANNOBIO MUNICIPALITY B&B La Respuchina Frazione Oro 48/a +39 0341 821368 Cannobio B&B Antico Sempione Via Casali Sempione, 3 +39 0323 71920 Calolziocorte Hotel Campagna 3 Via Nazionale, 25 +39 0323 71481 Hotel Monastero del Lavello 3 Via Padri Serviti 1 +39 0341 645099 Hotel Cannobio 4 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, 6 +39 0323 739639 Hotel Casa Arizzoli 3 Via Giovanola 92 +39 0323 72001 Civate Hotel Pironi 3 Via Marconi, 35 +39 0323 70624 B&B Angolo di Paradiso Via Privata Pianeta 2 +39 0341 210368 Park Hotel Villa Belvedere 3 Via Casali Cuserina, 2 +39 0323 70159 Residence Antico Sempione Via Casali Sempione, 3 +39 0323 71920 Colico B&B Casa del Viandante Via Biasett 6 +39 0341 930262 B&B Da-Di Via Bassana 19 - Villatico +39 0341 940064 BRISSAGO MUNICIPALITY

Cremeno Brissago Albergo Al Clubino 3 Via Ing. Giorgio Combi 15 +39 0341 996145 B&B Casa Concerto Rossorino 18 +41 (0)91 7868100 Albergo Del Cacciatore 3 P.zza Santa Maria 12 - Maggio +39 0341 996237 Casa Isabella Vicolo al Castello +41 (0)79 3735044

Lecco B&B Alla Bonacina Via San Egidio 1 +39 0341 494355

Lierna Editing: Consorzio Ideas - Lodi B&B Le Ortensie Via Roma 180 - Castello +39 348 2644190 Cartography and photos: Centro Studi Biologia e Ambiente snc - Erba (CO) Mandello del Lario Graphics: Keypress - Lomazzo (Co) Printing: Tecnografica - Lomazzo (Co) B&B dell’Acqua Bianca Via dell’Acqua Bianca 1/1 - Somana +39 0341 735807 © Copyright 2012 Perledo Agriturismo Castello di Vezio Via del Castellano 16 - Vezio +39 335 1802302 Province of Como, Province of Lecco, Municipality of Cannobio (VB), Municipality of Brissago (Canton Ticino, Switzerland)

110 111 Bike Sports and relaxation itineraries Routes in the municipalities of Brissago (CH) and Cannobio (I)

Table 02