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Home , Grey Goose (vodka), Ketel One, Luksusowa, Popov (vodka), Ruskova, Russian Standard (vodka)

A CASE FOR IT’S HARD TO CALL A SPIRIT ‘NEUTRAL’ WHEN THERE’S SO MUCH DIVERSITY WITHIN ITS CATEGORY

BY JEFF CIOLETTI odka hasn’t attracted the sort of feverish fandom that, with vodka, it’s bottled and distributed say, whiskey and agave spirits have, but that, in a sense, quite soon after distillation and doesn’t have to sit in a barrel for a couple of is by design. If vodka is truly doing its job and being years not making any money. Vodka everything it’s supposed to be, it’s neutral—without color, tonic drinkers typically aren’t looking to aroma or flavor (mostly). What’s to get excited about? break the bank and they can’t go wrong VWell, it still outsells every other spirit—that’s pretty exciting. with something along the lines of Georgi, , Burnett’s or New Amsterdam, all of which sell off-premise for around $13 and under for a 750ml bottle. And there’s The fact of the matter is that vodka’s “authenticity”-minded consumers who a good reason value come in large blank slate character empowers it to play gravitate toward brown spirits. bottles, too: they are crowdpleasers that exceptionally well with other ingredients “If you pick up a magazine, it’ll say don’t bust budgets—perfect for parties. in cocktails, helping it become the largest that whiskey is the top trend, and now Value-priced vodkas are also ideal spirits category by volume—71.3 million that the female demographic is invested, for infusions, which are a real cash cow of the 226.1 million 9-liter cases that it continues to rise,” observes Sly Cosmo- for Washington, DC’s Eastern European make up the total U.S. spirits universe, poulos, Corporate Mixologist at Repub- eatery House Lounge—whose according to the Distilled Spirits Council. lic National Distributing Co. (RNDC). menu boasts some 200 vodkas. “I just use That means nearly a third of the “Then I pick up another magazine and it’s different house vodkas and go for the best spirits that legal drinking age Americans , and then in another magazine it’s deal,” says Russia House general manager consumed last year was vodka. And, as ‘poor tequila, mezcal is taking over.’ And Andrew Embree, “As long as it’s a decent large and mature as the category is, it still then another and it’s , with all the dif- vodka, when you infuse it correctly, it managed to post more than 2% volume ferent botanicals.” takes any of the kick out of it.” Russia growth in 2017. Often forgotten among those sexier House sells infusions—everything from If there’s ever been a “something for headlines is vodka. But it’s no less pickle, horseradish and mango to roasted everyone” category, it’s vodka. And that relevant. “When you’re dealing with tomato and habanero—for $10 a shot, so “everyone” includes even the “craft” and the mass market, the general public, the it’s a highly profitable endeavor. average consumer—open the front door and look up and down the street in the FLAVORS: EVOLUTION, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Vodka’s superpower neighborhood—it’s still vodka,” says NOT REVOLUTION is its ability to play a role in countless cocktails, such Cosmopoulos. “With all the different as Absolut’s Unicorn Froze. // Belvedere is among Of course, not all flavors have to be price points and styles and flavors, there the distilleries championing rye as a vodka base. // homemade. And it was not too long ago Absolut Patriot Punch. // The 17th-century manor really is a different vodka for every age that you could barely think of flavors “Le Logis” is a element at , and demographic.” that had not already been tried. And the situated in France’s region. // Deep Eddy Blueberry Ginger Mule // Simple yet sophisticated: sub-category itself was ripe for parody. Botanical Cucumber & Mint with a splash VALUE VODKA STILL ROCKS Flavored vodka may have taken a bit of of soda. // ’s Dutch Berry Gimlet. // Low price doesn’t necessarily mean low a hit recently—the segment lost 400,000 Grey Goose Martinis. quality. Since there’s no aging involved cases last year, according to the Distilled Spirits Council—but there always will be Brands continually reinforce vodka’s flexibility in thing, it’s that local sells. Brands like a place at the bar and on the retail shelf cocktails by serving up easy recipes and delicious Tito’s and Deep Eddy may be national imagery. Seen here: “ for ready-to-drink flavors. The segment is Popper” and Van Gogh’s “Peachy Palmer” minis. players now, but both are still very much just evolving away from gimmicks. Austin brands with fiercely loyal follow- “It’s been seven or eight years since ings around the Texas capital. the huge confectionery [flavored vod- the lastest Infusion is a re-boot: Watermel- “If a brand is local, then that is a sell- ka] trend, the whipped cream, the Fruit on is back, but now it’s “Sun-Ripened” ing point for that particular area,” says JR Loops flavors,” says Cosmopoulos. “We’re and featuring real fruit. Starkus, Nevada-based master mixology steering away from that and we’re starting Meanwhile, Austin Texas-based for Southern Glazer’s & Spirits. to see lighter flavor profiles.” Deep Eddy, now part of Heaven Hill He points to the Frey Ranch Estate Dis- At the Value end, Burnett’s and Pin- brands, has gained as much attention tillery in Fallon, Nevada as an example. nacle remain flavored vodka anchors. But for its Ruby Red Vodka—which in- “You want to do local, here’s someone also at more premium price points, with cludes real grapefruit juice—as it has who’s doing it local on their farm, at a the exception of Tito’s, practically every for its 10-times-distilled original. single distillery. But that’s tied into how big brand-Absolut, Stoli, , Sved- One of the flavored vodka game’s close you are to the source. It doesn’t ka, Cîroc, Ketel One-has distinctive (and biggest rising stars of the past few years mean anything in Texas—Texans are valuable) flavors in their franchise. And has been cucumber. “Everyone would say going to do Deep Eddy and Tito’s.” continued promotions by established that cucumber was a really hard flavor to vodkas that remind consumers how easy capture in a bottle, but now we’re seeing INGREDIENTS FOR SUCCESS and rewarding these variations can be. a lot of it,” Cosmopoulos adds. In 2016, Another element that Nevada’s Frey Meanwhile, some national brands-Van combined a pair of the hottest Ranch has going for it is its grain base— Gogh, for one-have become synonymous trending flavors when it introduced made from an uncommon combination with flavor, while craft-scaled brands such Svedka Cucumber Lime. And, in April of corn, rye, and . That as Charbay and new labels like Western of this year, the venerable wouldn’t have mattered a handful of Son are gaining traction. brand launched Stoli Cucumber. years ago, but today’s consumers are Old stand-bys like citrus will remain Focus is another trend. One longtime increasingly attuned to how their spirits on-trend, as will spicy, peppery expres- leader in the flavor arena, Van Gogh, are made and the ingredients with which sions. Absolut was among the pioneers of scaled back last year from 24 flavors to 15. they are made. both. In 1986, seven years after the Double Espresso is their best-selling flavor “Consumers are savvier now than brand launched its original vodka, overall, followed by Açai-Blueberry, sug- they’ve ever been and they’re more aware it unveiled Absolut Peppar and, gesting people still have a taste for the of what they’re putting in their bodies,” two years later, it introduced exotic. That’s what keeps driving a brand says Cosmopoulos. “They realize, ‘I want Absolut Citron. Both remain in like Figenza, whose fig flavor doubles as a potato vodka,’ ‘I want wheat vodka,’ ‘I the Absolut portfolio today. Last bit of a curiosity for consumers looking to want rye.’ A lot more people are taking a year, the brand launched Abso- try something a bit different, and as an in- look at the base ingredient.” lut Lime—and launching this teresting cocktail enhancer to mixologists. That’s what convinced Belvedere summer: Grapefruit. and to play up their respective The Skyy Vodka portfolio also includes THE LOCAL TEAM SCORES BIG rye bases in marketing and prompted a number of tropical and citrus offerings Vodka is an incredibly crowded category to release its “Single” line of within its Skyy Infusions line. Among and it’s notoriously difficult for a new spirits distilled only once to retain the those are Citrus, Texas Grapefruit, Blood brand to break through. But if the craft character of its base—be it wheat, rye, Orange and Pineapple. A sign of the times: beverage movement has taught us any- barley or potato. Marketing emphasis has shifted away from number Potato remains a classic base, and ar- of times distilled and types of filtration; ingredients guably carries more cachet today than it are emerging as more important. Potatoes rule at Chopin, while rye stars at Belvedere. ever has, thanks to producers who treat in England from the milk of grass-grazed it conscientiously. Examples besides Cho- cows, is not in the U.S.; but in suburban pin include Karlsson’s Gold (Sweden), its association with brand partner Sean NYC there is nice vodka made from hon- Boyd & Blair (Pennsylvania), LIV “Diddy” Combs than its base. A similar ey, called Comb. And Peony Vodka, from (Long Island), Blue Ice (made with case can be made for Bedlam Vodka from the Hudson Valley, includes nine natural Idaho potatoes); Gorgeous (Mon- Durham, NC-based Graybeard Distillery. ingredients, most importantly the essence tana); and Chase from England, Bedlam’s base is rice—more commonly of its namesake flower. created by the family behind a associated with saké, but not so frequent- famous Tyrrell’s potato chips for ly linked to vodka. ORGANIC: THE NEW PURITY some serious potato pedigree. As for some really out there ingre- As vodka marketing tactics go, “X-times- Grey Goose probably gets dients, Fair Vodka is made in France distilled” is starting to feel nostalgic. much of the credit for making from quinoa. Hangar 1, the Alam- Consumers bought into the idea that people start to care more about eda, California distillery adept at each distillation would render the spirit bases. Few people were talking offbeat fruit vodkas such as Buddha’s even more pure. Ditto filtering—from about “winter wheat” before Hand, also created a Fog Point expres- charcoal to diamonds—again in the the Sidney Frank-launched, now- sion using water harvested from San name of purity. Well, here is a radical Bacardi-owned brand exploded onto the Francisco Bay fog. Black Cow, made idea: the purest spirit starts with pure market. And now it’s part of the everyday vodka drinker’s lexicon, tied to no single country. Ravo, for instance gets as much mileage playing up its Swedish winter wheat base as Grey Goose does with KETEL ONE SHIFTS its French crop. THE CONVERSATION Grey Goose also got people talking more about water sourc- ext time someone asks “Is there es, as well, being sourced from a anything new in vodka?” you pristine French spring. It certain- can say yes without hesita- ly has helped pave the way for N tion. Ketel One has a trio of the success of brands like Global new products which, if not game changers, Spirits USA’s Leaf Vodka, whose undoubtedly represent a contemporary take water sources are front-and-center on flavored vodkas. on its label. One iteration is made from Very consciously named, Ketel One Alaskan glacial water and the other with Botanical is vodka distilled with real botanicals Rocky Mountain mineral water. and infused with natural fruit and botanical Bob Nolet. “Just as our father redefined the possibilities for vodka with the exceptionally The growing ingredient orientation essences. Made with non-GMO grain and smooth crisp taste of Ketel One Vodka, we also has enabled smaller brands to dis- finished at 30% ABV, the spirit has no carbs, no artificial flavors, no sweeteners and only 73 believe Ketel One Botanical sets a completely tinguish themselves by showcasing their calories. Beyond pushing lifestyle buttons, it new standard in spirits,” says Bob Nolet. off-the-beaten-path bases. That’s a defi- also delivers aromatics and flavor that with just Available in three expressions—Peach nite selling point for Argentina’s Primo ice, a splash of soda and a garnish become an & Orange Blossom; Cucumber & Mint; and Vodka, made from Malbec grapes. Cîroc instant sophisticated cocktail. Grapefruit & Rose— at SRP $24.99, the new is certainly the best known of the grape The prime drivers behind the spin-off are members of the Ketel One portfolio are hitting vodka niche, but it’s far better known for 11th generation brothers Carl Nolet Jr. and shelves and backbars now. Grey Goose incorporates its estate in France into ingredients—and in that respect, organic around $60 to $75 a bottle off-premise, much of the brand’s content and imagery. // vodkas separate themselves logically and Taking over an old glass factory outside Pittsburgh, with a hefty markup in bottle-service- provide a natural selling point. Boyd & Blair was only the second distillery in style establishments. Then there’s Stoli’s American Harvest Organic Vodka, Pennsylvania since Prohibition; their vodka is made Elit Pristine Waters series, which sources from local potatoes. // Lvov Vodka, made from recently repackaged, is made from from exotic, remote locations. Bottles of- beets, proudly wears a map of Poland on its label. organic Rocky Mountain wheat, ten run upwards of $3,000—off-premise! certified organic ingredients and “There’s definitely a pocketbook that water from deep beneath the Of course, Russia remains well rep- goes along with something like that,” Snake River Plain. The Snake resented by evocative brands such as Be- Starkus says. “People purchase it simply River actually runs under the luga, Hammer & Sickle, Legend of Krem- because they can. In the world of the me- Square One distillery; they use or- lin, and . ga-rich and super-rich, they want to show ganic rye as a base. Prairie, also re- Then again, the great thing about each other up and show you what they cently redesigned, is proudly made vodka is you can make it anywhere—that have and you don’t.” Minnesota, starting with single- factor can elevate locales from around But there is also a practical side to vintage organic yellow corn grown the globe. Ketel One, Van Gogh, luxury vodka, especially off-premise—it on family farms, without herbicides and Effen all hail from the . arguably makes a safer gift than more and pesticides (Prairie also make Cucum- comes from Finland, particular-tasting spirits at similar price ber). The Crop line is a veritable organic from Iceland, Three Olives from England, points. garden with flavor extensions cucumber, and Ao from Japan. Absolut and Svedka tomato and lemon. Ocean Organic Vodka, come from Sweden, as do Purity and IMAGE NO LONGER EVERYTHING? made in Maui, is made using sugar cane and Ravo. Canada supplies Crystal Head, Vodka’s blank slate character naturally ocean water, naturally. And from , Iceberg and Pearl. Don’t forget Slovenia provides ample freedom for creating Punzone uses organic Piemontese wheat Vodka, whose brand team includes chef brands, from the fanciful to the and water from the Italian Alps; Kanon is Peter X. Kelly, Mikhail Baryshnikov and commemorative. Consider Ma- made from organic wheat in Sweden. Bill Murray—not to be confused with the mont, a Siberian vodka, was Slovakian vodka Double Cross. launched by an explorer to cel- A SENSE OF PLACE ebrate the discovery of the Yuka- Most brands showcase their place of ori- ROYAL TREATMENT gir Mammoth; its bottle is mod- gin in one way or another, but some wear Finally, sometimes consumers just want to eled after the tusk. it on their sleeves. Think Khor Vodka, splurge, especially if they’ve got money to Then, of course, marketers which proudly highlights its Ukrainian burn or they just want to live the celebrity have always had fun with vodka: heritage. Khor takes its name from Khor- lifestyle—if only for one night. Bong Vodka’s bottle embod- tytsa, a famous, natural wonder of an is- Italy’s Carbonadi vodka is ies its name; Black Death be- land on Ukraine’s River Dnieper. very much tied to its luxurious came a perennial Halloween hit; Crystal And, while there are so many vodkas image—thanks in part to its price Head embraced both celebrity owner- coming out of Poland—which claims tag. “Carbonadi will probably ship by Dan Aykroyd and chic/cheeky to be the birthplace of the spirit, much run you $80 to $100 off premise, skull-shaped packaging. Some vodkas to Russia’s consternation—few own but in one of the Las Vegas night draw inspiration from local history and their homeland as much as Lvov, whose clubs, a bottle will probably run geography; others tie in to causes (He- package contains a very detailed map of you $1,000,” says Starkus. roes, Salute, Simple, Equality). The list its region of origin. More Polish pride can Similarly, Stoli Elit, easily of image-driven vodka brands is long, as be found in and recognizable by its sleek, silver vodka’s neutral character continues to act and 1852 Kurant Crystal Vodka. and black bottle, usually costs as a very willing enabler. ■`