Bled . Bohinj . Cerklje . Gorenja Vas - Poljane . Gorje . Jesenice . Jezersko . Kranj . Kranjska Gora Naklo . Preddvor . Radovljica . Šenčur . Škofja Loka . Tržič . Železniki . Žiri . Žirovnica SloveniaN Alps

2013

Active Holidays Countless opportunities for sports and activities no matter the season

Family Trips This family-friendly region means no worries about taking the kids along

Triglav National Park Slovenia’s only national park is one of the most magnificent in Europe

Please enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY Slovenian Alps In Your Pocket Contents 3 Slovenian Alps

An endless source of adventures for unlimited family fun ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Get close up and personal with history and tradition: Contents - Visit a tourism farm Introducing Gorenjska 5 - Get to know the secrets of beekeeping and honey-making - Explore ancient castles Bled 8 - See history come alive at medieval events - Enjoy our entertaining museums Bohinj 22 Cerklje na Gorenjskem 34 Combine learning with fun: Gorenja Vas - Poljane 36 - Go for a hike along one of the many themed walking trails - Cook a meal at a culinary workshop Gorje 37 - Enjoy geocaching, an exciting outdoor treasure hunt - Get creative at painting, musical and museum workshops Jesenice 38 Jezersko 41 Meet Slovenia’s fairytale heroes at: - Kekec Land in Kranjska Gora Kranj 42 - Land of the Dwarfs in Gozd Martuljek - Fairytale Land Gorajte in Škofja Loka - Zaki Swan in Bled - Kranjček in the city of Kranj Bled is an amazing place to see any time you visit, but sunset from Osojnica Hill is truly something magical, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia Feel the rush of adrenaline in the Adventure Parks Kranjska Gora 50 of Bled, Bohinj, Jezersko, Naklo 64 Kranjska Gora and Krvavec Preddvor 65 Radovljica 66 Šenčur 73 Škofja Loka 74 Select from a palette of entertaining activities in the great out- Tržič 77 doors all year round: Summer sledging, cycling, swimming in lakes, rivers and pools, rafting, kayaking, rowing, riding, golf & mini golf, Železniki 79 paintball & airsoft, zorbing, ice-skating, snow-shoeing, horse-drawn Žiri 80 carriage rides, sledging, cross-country and Alpine skiing and much more awaits you in the Slovenian Alps. Most visitors may come to Gorenjska for its world famous Žirovnica 81 destinations, but nearly every corner of the region holds something special, photo by Rok Godec courtesy of Picture Maps 82 Slovenia

slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013 4 Foreword Introducing Gorenjska 5

Gorenjska, or the Slovenian Alps as it is most commonly Embraced on nearly all sides by the Julian Alps, Karavanke called in English, has officially become the latest region in Publisher and Western Kamnik-Savinje Alps ranges, the so-called The Green Card Slovenia to join the In Your Pocket family, which now includes Slovenian Alps In Your Pocket Slovenian Alps was formed as a unified tourist destination somewhere around 70 of the country’s municipalities and Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia in order to combine all the amazing things that the 18 con- Those who travel frequently are sure to be familiar the vast majority of its population and area - with Gorenjska Tel. +386 30 316 602 stituent municipalities of Slovenia’s Gorenjska region have with the standard tourist cards that seem to be found accounting for approximately 10 per cent of each. The region [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com to offer in one easily manageable package. Tourists need in most major cities these days, usually offering dis- is comprised of 18 separate municipalities, all of which are not pay attention to municipal boundaries, and can instead counts for a variety attractions, restaurants, trans- bound together by culture, history and of course geography, Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. focus on experiencing the the sights, activities and events port, shops and services. The region-wide Gorenjska but at the same time also have their own unique stories [email protected] that will surely make their visit an unforgettable one. Guest Green Card follows this same model, but with to tell, which we’ve done our best to communicate in the ©IQBATOR d.o.o. two notable exceptions: it’s valid for up to 30 days following pages. and is completely free of charge! One card is also Both in terms of attractions and infrastructure, Gorenjska is Printed Evrografis d.o.o. Active Gorenjska sufficient for the whole family, so you don’t have one of the most tourist-friendly regions in the country, and the The entire Gorenjska region is a paradise for lovers of to worry about the kids losing theirs. Cards can be main difficulty in producing this guide was the formidable task Editorial sports and outdoor activities no matter if it’s winter sports ordered online in advance, downloaded as part of a of trying to condense everything down into one informative, Editor Yuri Barron such as skiing, snowboarding, ice skating, snowshoeing free Slovenian Alps mobile app, or collected directly useful and hopefully entertaining resource for visitors. This Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, James Cosier, Jeroen Nab or ice climbing, or those more suited to warmer weather from participating accommodation providers in the was only made possible by the exceptional cooperation we Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė like hiking, cycling, fishing, golf or numerous water-based region. A full list of all the card’s benefits and more received at the local level in each of the municipalities, who Consulting Craig Turp activities. If you’re feeling especially adventurous you can info can be found on the official website at www. helped us out immensely during the project - from arranging Photos Picture Slovenia, RDO Gorenjska, Bled Tourist Board hike to Slovenia’s highest point (the 2864m Mt Triglav) or slovenian-alps.com. tours and excursions to explaining local myths and legends even literally take flight on a paraglider, ultralite aircraft or to recommending the best places to stop for a drink or meal. (BTB), Kranj Tourist Board, Jošt Gantar, Jana Jocif, Bas Lammers, Luka Dakskobler, Jana Kuhar, Branka Jovanović, Rok regular panoramic tour, all of which provide unforgettable Whether you come to Gorenjska for an active holiday, a family vantage points of the region. In all there are said to be more trip, business meeting, quick weekend away or any other Godec, Tanja Sodja, Mitja Sodja, Izidor Jesenko, Primož Suša and YMB than 60 different sports that can be easily participated in reason, we sincerely hope that you enjoy yourself as much or organised with the help of local agencies. as we did, and always have over the years. As with all of our Cover photo Drejc Karničar guides, we welcome any and all feedback from our readers, Sales & Circulation be it on Facebook, Twitter or even old-fashioned email. Family Fun Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar Gorenjska not only provides countless ways for families to enjoy themselves together, but it also offers great value when Cover story Copyright notice doing so - one of the positive benefits of visiting a region that Selecting a fitting image for the cover of our first Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright is known throughout Slovenia for being home to the country’s Slovenian Alps guide posed quite a challenge, with so cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication thriftiest people. From the various discounts bestowed by the many worthy contenders capably depicting the region’s may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for freely available Green Card to the hearty portions and large magnificent natural beauty, while at the same time the purpose of review, without written permission from the family apartments found at many guesthouses, you’ll find that representing the symbiosis between land and people publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket your euros tend to go quite far here. In addition to the sports that is still so highly valued here. We finally settled on is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, and outdoor activities mentioned above, younger family mem- the idyllic image of Šenk’s Homestead, which with some Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). bers will be enchanted by the local fairytales that come to life Biathlon, to some truly unique local festivals like the an- effort can be found tucked away in the far northeastern during special events or at attractions such as Kekec Land. For nual Potato Feast in Šenčur or the celebration of one of Maps corner of the region, more specifically in the Ravenska older kids there are no less than five adrenaline parks in the Slovenia’s most beloved folk heroes during Kekec Days Kočna Valley of the Jezersko municipality. AV Studio courtesy of RDO Gorenjska region, where they can quite literally run across treetops and in Kranjska Gora, hardly a week passes during the year swing through the air like Tarzan (all with the utmost safety of without some worthwhile event taking place in the region. course). In recent years, even many museums and exhibitions The calendar is at its fullest during the late spring and have become more child-friendly, with the development of summer months with an especially wide variety of music interactive presentations and special guided tours. festivals taking place, but the winter is also a joyous time Europe In Your Pocket of year, and one of the Slovenia’s largest cultural events, It’s now 21 years since we published Prešeren Fair, is held in Kranj each February. Much more Northern Traditional Events info about these and dozens of other traditional events Ireland Estonia the first In Your Pocket guide - to From top international sporting events attracting tens can be found in this guide. Ireland Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time Latvia Russia we have grown to become the largest of thousands of spectators, such as the Ski Flying World Championships in Planica or the Pokljuka World Cup Lithuania publisher of locally produced city guides Triglav National Park in Europe. We now cover more than Slovenia has a well-deserved reputation for possessing Belarus 75 cities across the continent (with a nearly unimaginable amount of natural beauty within Netherlands Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be Symbol key Poland pocketed) and the number of concise, a relatively small package, however, there is only one Germany Ukraine P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted national park in the country, and that is of course Triglav Belgium witty, well-written and downright Czech indispensable In Your Pocket guides O Casino H Conference facilities National Park, the majority of which is located in Goren- Republic published each year is approaching five T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled jska. With a total size of 880 square kilometres, the park million. We also publish an iPhone F Fitness centre L Guarded parking accounts for some four per cent of Slovenia’s total area, Austria and in addition to the stunning natural beauty that is wait- Switzerland app, including more than 40 guides, R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly Slovenia Romania Georgia ing to be discovered around seemingly every turn, it also Croatia which can be downloaded for free from K Restaurant J Old town location Italy the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ has a great wealth of diverse plant and animal life. Much Bosnia Serbia D Sauna C Swimming pool more can be read in the chapters of the municipalities Bulgaria by name. Montenegro Kosovo I Fireplace W Wifi whose territory is included in the park, namely Bohinj, FYR Macedonia Jesenice and Kranjska Gora. Albania To keep up to date with all that’s new at Greece In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Slovenian Alps slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013

If you love the great outdoors, you will simply fall in love with Alpine Slovenia! In addition to thousands ACTIVE

of kilometres of mountaineering and hiking trails, as ACTIVE

well as cycle routes through the forests and mead- ows, there are numerous rivers and lakes providing GORENJSKA opportunities for relaxation or an adrenaline rush, GORENJSKA further to which the snow-covered slopes of small yet well-tended winter resorts are much beloved by Cycle! alpine ski champions. You can also soar - hopefully Slovenia’s Alps are criss-crossed by a number of long-distance cycle not like Icarus - amidst high mountains; then there routes split into stages. Comprised of five stages, the 232 km circular is horse riding, a most excellent golf course as well tour links Kranjska Gora, Bled, and Bohinj, before heading over the mountains to the Soča Valley, and thence returning to Kranjska Gora as plenty of possibilities for hunting and fishing. And International sports via the Vršič Pass. At a lower altitude, the 315 km Loška Tour may be this is just the beginning! divided into twelve stages which range from easy to very difficult. events Check it out yourself. Encompassing Slovenia, Italy and Austria, the Three Countries Tour Slovenian Alps pride themselves with numerous world level interna- Hike! has an international flavour, and passes into Italy at the Rateče bor- tional events through the year. Among summer sports Bled annually der crossing near Kranjska Gora. hosts international rowing regattas and hosted world championships In the vicinity of the Triglav National Park, which encompasses the for four times. Kranj is well known as the venue for sport climbing Julian Alps - together with the Karavanken chain, the Kamnik-Savinja Fly! world cup. Regarding winter sport Planica world cup in ski jumping is Alps, as well as the adjacent subalpine hills - there are numerous the biggest sport event in Slovenia and a place where several world marked mountaineering and hiking trails, as well as gentler paths An Alpine sports aerodrome for light aircraft and gliders, together with dedicated launch sites for paragliders, ultralites and model records were set. Bohinj annually hosts telemark world cup, followed through nature; indeed, hiking in the mountains ranks among the most by Kranjska Gora famous alpine skiing world cup venue (Vitranc) and popular forms of recreation in Slovenia. aircraft, provide new adventures and expand one’s horizons of Slovenia’s Alps. Take off from the highest peaks, fly alone or in international competitions in biathlon at Pokljuka. tandem over the alpine valleys, learn to fly, or clock up some Horse ride! hours as a qualification for further adventures in the air! Along bridleways and trails, at a hippodrome, or on a ranch, with a Li- pizzaner or a pony… equine enthusiasts have much to look forward to; ... and Endless sports indeed, Gorenjska provides opportunities suitable for novices and experi- opportunities enced riders alike. There are over 60 different sports activities one can participate in throughout the year in Slovenian Alps. You will never get bored here.

Enjoy winter! Explore the Alpine skiing, ski touring, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, ice-skating – all rank among Alpine Waters! the most popular winter sports which may be enjoyed in Gorenjska’s ski and winter sports Boating, or rowing employing all your strength, centres. These are generally smaller than the larger such resorts one tends to find in other the adrenaline rush of traversing rapids and countries, but nevertheless the pistes are perfectly regulated and groomed to international falls, diving, or simply swimming… Slovenia competition standards. is a land of innumerable watercourses: lakes Slovenia’s Alps offer a whole lot more than just skiing; you may try ice climbing, put on snow- - large and small, wild rivers, waterfalls, tor- shoes and explore the untamed white plains, or experience the thrill of paragliding with skies rential narrow gorges and wide fluvial streams, on your feet; take a ride on a snowmobile or horse-drawn sleigh, and even spend a night in and - last but by no means least - a great many Go fishing! an igloo Village! swimming pools, which facilitate all kinds of Bohinj and Bled, as well as a number of other mountain lakes, offer excellent an- water sports. gling. The watershed of the Gorenjska, encompassing the Sava and its tributaries, forms part of the greater-Danube river basin. Characteristic fish species include huchen, brown trout and grayling. 8 Bled bled 9

also offering excursions, guided tours and outdoor activi- Arriving by Train ties, Zara Tours cover major Slovene destinations like Bled, Bled has two train stations, but unfortunately neither is Ljubljana, Portorož and Kranjska Gora, as well as neighbouring located in the centre of town. Over 20 trains a day from countries like Klagenfurt and Salzburg in Austria and Venice Ljubljana call at Lesce-Bled station which is on the main line, and Trieste in Italy. Multilingual drivers and guides, plus but is 4km away, meaning you will either have a lengthy hike high quality vehicles, make it a solid option for your holiday or short bus ride into town. The other station is Bled-Jezero a transport needs. couple kilometres to the west, which sees up to five trains a day from the capital, however you have to transfer at Jesenice which can lead to a total journey time of almost 3 hours. Where to eat Check out Slovenia Railways’ incredibly user-friendly website for a complete schedule and prices at www.slo-zeleznice.si. International Chilli Cesta Svobode 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 30 27, resta- [email protected], www.chillibled.si. Just like the Arriving by Car owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make our customers happy’. From Ljubljana take the A2 highway northwest out of the city This restaurant looks like it originally wanted to sell Mexican and follow the signs for Kranj or Jesenice. From Austria, pass food and then realized that it wouldn’t make everyone happy, Jesenice following signs for Ljubljana. Bled is well sign-posted. so decided to offer more. Even though it’s the only restaurant The journey time is around 40 minutes from Ljubljana, and that offers Mexican food in Bled, you can still get Italian and it may get very crowded on Sundays in season at the end international dishes. Having been a professional athlete, the of highway. Once you’ve reached the town, there is ample owner travelled extensively and is now obsessed with having parking available, but most of it must be paid between the the same customer service he has seen around the world, hours of 07:00-20:00, with prices ranging from €0.50-2 per and it shows. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AUGB hour or €3-10 per day. Inquiring about the various options at your hotel prior to arrival is usually a good idea. For those with electric cars, there is a free charging station on the lower level Accommodation of the parking garage at Hotel Krim near Bled Sports Hall - the key can be collected at the hotel’s reception. No matter your budget, preferences or needs, there’s a very good chance that you can find accommodation to suit you in Bled. From the five-star Grand Hotel Toplice Car Rental on the waterfront promenade to the area’s only camp- Europcar Ljubljanska 7, tel./fax +386 (0)45 79 70 03, ground (which is also on the waterfront on the opposite tel. +386 (0)31 38 20 55, [email protected], side of the lake), there is an overwhelming selection of www.europcar.com. Following the simple Europcar formula hotels, guesthouses, tourist farms and hostels, as well of new vehicles rentable from the most convenient locations, as dozens of officially registered private rooms and the Hotel Krim in the centre of town at Bled can be the start apartments. of your own private adventure of the wider area. Most hotels fall in the 3- and 4-star categories, including the family-friendly Hotel Savica, which is one of the only Avant car Ljubljanska 11, tel. +386 (0)41 40 09 80, venues in all of Slovenia to be awarded the EU’s presti- A tour of the lake on one of Bled’s traditional Pletna boats is a must for visitors, photo by Bas Lammers [email protected], www.avantcar-slovenia.com. gious Eco-daisy label, given based on a strict criteria of QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. environmental sustainability. When it comes to mid-range With no less than a millennium of history, Bled has fostered its and budget accommodation, prices can vary quite widely, old traditions and created new ones - such that its culture and Arriving by Bus Avis Rent a car Grajska 4, tel. +386 (0)4576 87 00, fax but in general you pay for what you get, both in terms of events calendar is ever vibrant. Since the 1960s, the bustling Buses leave every hour on the hour from the main bus sta- +386 (0)4576 87 01, www.avis.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, the facilities themselves and the location. For a full listing tourist town has been under its own municipality, and has a tion in Ljubljana and take about 80 minutes to make the Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. of all the accommodation options in and around Bled, large selection of accommodation, restaurants, sports oppor- journey. Close to the town centre at the northeastern tip of see the official website of Tourism Bled at www.bled.si, tunites and nightlife. The beauty of the surroundings not only the lake, the main bus station (glavno postajališče) has a Budget Bled Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)4578 03 20, while for detailed descriptions of many of them you can inspires holiday-makers, photographers, artists and musicians; kiosk outside selling chocolate, soft drinks and cigarettes. www.budget.si. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00-20:00, Sat, visit us at bled.inyourpocket.com. there’s even an internationally renowned business school. To get to the city centre, walk south along Cesta Svobode Sun 08:00 - 12:00. No trip to Bled is complete without stopping by Hotel Park until you hit the water. Schedule and prices can be found for one of their famous Kremšnita cream cakes, and for on the official Ljubljana bus station website at www.ap- first-time visitors a boat trip to the Church of the Assump- ljubljana.si. Ta x i s tion and a visit to the castle is also a must. Bled Tours Ljubljanska 19, tel. +386 (0)31 205 611, [email protected], www.bledtours.si. Available 24hrs, Tourist Information they also offer train station, airport and other long distance Arriving transfers. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Tucked up close to the Austrian border as little as an hour Bled Tourist Office Cesta Svobode 10, tel. +386 away from the capital, getting to Bled by train, bus or car is (0)4 574 11 22, [email protected], www. Four Seasons Travel Tel. +386 (0)40 52 23 64/+386 a relatively painless experience. bled.si. Follow the yellow footprints and be greeted (0)40 52 23 65, [email protected], by an above-average collection of information, maps, www.bledtaxis.com. Using its basis of taxis and airport Arriving by Plane guidebooks, Bled T-shirts and helpful, friendly staff. An transfers (both local and longer distance to Klagenfurt, excellent place to drop by for topping up on the latest Salzburg, Trieste, Venice, Zagreb and others), and including a Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport is located approximately information, there’s also a computer providing free fast shuttle for Easyjet and Wizzair passengers from London, half way between Ljubljana and Bled, and you can expect internet access and a superb view of the lake. QOpen Four Seasons Travel also offers what are in our opinion pretty to pay around €45 for a taxi into town. Buses are con- 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. attractive tours, with Bled as your starting point, to such siderably cheaper (€5.40, with up to 19 connections on destinations as Piran and Skocjan, Lipica, Soča and Brda. weekdays, but virtually none on weekends) although you Bled Tourist Board Tel. +386 (0)4 578 05 00, have to transfer in Kranj. There are also up to six direct fax +386 (0)4 578 05 01, [email protected], www. Zara Tours Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 11 01, Camping along the shores of Bled Lake, courtesy of shuttles per day (€13). You can see the full schedules on bled.si. fax +386 (0)45 74 11 02, [email protected], www. BTB the airport’s website at www.lju-airport.si. zaratours.si. Specialising in taxi and transfer services and

Slovenian Alps slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013 10 bled bled 11

Gourmet Restaurant Promenada Cesta Svobode Oštarija Peglez’n Cesta Svobode 19a, tel. +386 (0)45 the oversized pizzas, the menu features various burg- 15, tel. +386 (0)45 79 18 39, restavracija.promenada@ 74 42 18, ostarija-peglezn.mestna-izlozba.com. A simple Pizza ers, fries, kebaps, sandwiches, sausages and even a hotelibled.com, www.gourmet-promenada.com. Although rustic design punctuated with rag dolls, plates, old coffee pots Pizzeria Briksen Ljubljanska 5, tel. +386 (0)40 full English breakfast, which are balanced out with some no Slovenian restaurant has yet been awarded a prestigious and a broken hat stand in which to feast on a large and highly 652 995, www.pizzerijabriksen.com. Owned by Slo- slightly healthier looking salads. One new addition is the Michelin star, Bled’s Promenada is surely one of the candi- recommended selection of fish, meat and pasta dishes. The vene ice hockey player Tomaž Razingar, it seems only so-called Soči pizza - introduced to the menu to celebrate dates on the shortlist - an unsurprising fact given that head Trout a la Trieste seems to be popular here, as indeed does natural that this incredibly popular pizzeria is located in the Slovene national team’s qualification for the 2014 chef Bine Volčič was trained by two of Paris’ top chefs after the octopus salad and ice-cream with hot fruit, the latter two Bled’s sports hall, whose main function is as an arena Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. graduating from the famed Le Cordon Bleu culinary school. not coming together on the same plate. Once again, every- for hockey and other ice-based sports. In addition to PYALVBW Situated below Hotel Park along the lakeside promenade thing is complimented with an admirable wine list including (hence the name), the restaurant has no permanent menu, reds and whites from both Slovenia and abroad. QOpen but changes to reflect the availability of fresh seasonal 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-27). TA6IGBXS History ingredients. A meal here is a must for serious (and aspiring) gourmands. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Starters €11, Panorama Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)45 79 12 75, As a result, great changes occurred in the forming of mains €21, multi-course menus €27-52. PJAL fax +386 (0)45 74 18 41, [email protected], www. estates and the settlement of the region. In the middle panorama-bled.com. Along the shores of Lake Bled, you can of the 14th century the Bishops of Brixen gave up Julijana Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)45 79 10 enjoy a selection of exquisite seafood, a mixture of Mediterranean direct administration of their properties in Bled and 00, [email protected], www.sava-hotels- and Slovene cuisine and a killer wine and dessert selection that leased them to the chief administrators at the time, the resorts.com. Enjoy a top quality meal on a terrace with a is set among one of the most pristine views that a restaurant in von Kreigh family. Because of encroachment on their stunning view at Juliana, where you can expect the serv- Bled has to offer. Complete with wonderful service. QOpen 10:00 rights and brutal treatment and oppression, in 1515 ers to treat you like Prince Charles, who’s been sighted - 22:00. (high season and weekends); 10.00 - 22.00 (low season). the peasants joined the fight for the “old justice” in a here on more than one occasion. It’s not cheap, so make JAEBK pan-Slovene revolt. your slow food last extra long. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. In 1558 a new holder, the Protestant protector Herbert PTALGBX Restaurant Camping Bled Kidričeva 10b, tel. +386 VII of Auersperg, took over the castle. Until the middle of (0)4 574 17 12, [email protected], www. the 18th century the lessors were exclusively aristocratic; Labod Cesta Svobode 8a, tel. +386 (0)45 79 84 53, restaurant-zaka.si. Don’t be put off by the name - yes, this later these also included townsmen, but they rarely lived [email protected], www.restavracijalabod.si. may be the restaurant of Bled’s largest campsite, but it also Jozip Broz Tito was a frequent visitor to Bled during his in the castle. In 1803, after 800 years of Brixen rule, Bled This very upmarket restaurant adjoined to the Hotel Jelovica has some of the best views of anywhere on the lake. Also more than three decades as leader of Yugoslavia, even passed into state ownership by a decree of the Court provides an International a la carte menu along with a fair pick known as Zaka, it’s located at the far west end of Bled (on the keeping a summer residence in Bled, courtesy of BTB Commission in Vienna. of vegetarian friendly meals. Not a bad choice for a meal with small bay just before the road leaves the lakeside), with the From 1809 to 1813, it was included in Napoleon’s Empire business associates or a romantic lunch or dinner along its lake’s famous island church just off the shore and the castle The fertile land and the protective shelter of the castle as part of the Illyrian provinces, and then it came once admirable lake-side garden, pleasantly adorned with green in the distance. The food is reasonably priced and comes in hill and the island, have always invited settlement around again into the hands of the Austrian Emperor who returned chestnut trees and fountains. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed large hearty portions to satisfy demands of hungry campers. the Bled area. The first, and rare traces of humans in Bled to the bishops of Brixen for the last time in 1838. Sun. (€6.60-20). PTJAULEBKSW Try one of the special dishes, such as Granny’s mushroom Bled, date back to the Stone Age. In the Iron Age, when With the abolishment of the feudal system ten years soup, roast beef Pokljuka-style or the Camping Bled plate the mining of iron had begun in the Alpine regions, settle- later, the estate lost its character of a feudal economic Okarina Ljubljanska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 74 14 58, leo@ for two. TLEB ment increased. and social unit. In the second half of the 19th century, okarina.com, www.okarina.com. Sophisticated interna- Beneath the layer of an already discovered Slavic necropo- Bled changed considerably. The characteristic villages of tional dining in a beautiful setting with an Indian twist. Set Restaurant Park Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)45 lis at Pristava pod Gradom, archaeologists discovered 80 Gorenjska, which had been autonomous units ever since alongside a traditional menu of meat, fish and vegetarian 79 18 18, [email protected], www.hotel-park- gravesites from the late Iron Age (800 to 600 BC) - Celtic the Middle Ages, were united. Income decreased, and dishes sits an ambitious (for Bled anyway) selection of Indian bled.com. If you’re staying in Park Hotel Bled itself, you will and Roman finds however, are more modest. Bled was in 1858 Brixen sold the Bled estate to Viktor Ruard, the delicacies from pakora to samosa to chicken biryani. Also probably pop into this classy eatery. The à la carte menu is later well populated by the Slavs, who arrived in two waves. owner of the Jesenice Ironworks. He kept the castle, the available are a few tandoori treats plus some fine desserts specially prepared for each season, and come tea time, you The Slavic settlements were most probably located at lake and the usable land around it, and sold the rest to the including apple strudel and a selection of cheeses. QOpen mustn’t miss their pride and joy, and Bled’s culinary special- exactly the same spots where the lakeside villages of Kranj Industrial Company. 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€8-30). ity: the kremšnita cream cake - they’ve been practising the Mlino, Želeče, Zagorice, Grad and Rečica formed in the In 1882 Ruard sold the estate to a Viennese wholesale TA6GBXSW recipe for over nearly half a century! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. late Middle Ages. merchant named Adolf Muhr, and in 1919 Bled hotelier Ivan PJAULGBKSW Kenda bought the castle with the lake - for the first time Slavic settlement the property passed into Slovenian hands. In 1937 it was Topolino Ljubljanska 26, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 81, The first wave of settlement of the Bled area occurred in taken over by the Associated Commercial Bank and finally [email protected], www.topolino-slo.com. the 7th century, the next reached the Bled basin during bought by the Drava Province. During World War II, Bled was Self-described as without a doubt the best restaurant in the 9th and 10th centuries. Discoveries from the first used to house the German military and civil headquarters, the entire Gorenjska region of Slovenia, while we know more settlements illustrate the culture of the Old Slavic state and in 1960 it acquired the status of a town. than a few of their competitors would take umbrage with this of King Samo (632 - 658) and the late antiquity traditions pronouncement, there may be some truth to it. Some of the in these lands. The discoveries from the second wave Tourism in Bled, and Arnold Rikli slow food creations that come out of the kitchen of skilled of settlement, such as ornaments found in gravesites The first numerous visitors to Bled were pilgrims, coming chef Zoran Stančič are truly delectable, and this is definitely include enamelled and engraved earrings in the shape to see the church on the island of course. Following Val- the kind of place where the menu doesn’t even need to be of half-moons, circlets, round brooches and iron knives. vasor’s reporting of the thermal springs in ‘The Glory of opened, or at least this is usually our chosen approach. These artefacts indicate the historical development of Bled the Duchy of Carniola’ 1689, numbers of people seeking QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. JAL up to the 10th century and some of these can be seen on health benefits here rose, and thus there were several exhibition at the Castle museum. attempts to destroy the springs and/or lake in order to Vila Prešeren Veslaška Promenada 14, tel. +386 quash this attention, unwanted by certain figures. Alas, (0)45 75 25 10, fax +386 (0)45 75 25 19, vila.pre- The bishops of Brixen they survived, and ‘organised’ tourism started around the [email protected], www.vilapreseren.si. Checking out After the fall of the Old Slavic state, Bled with its surround- middle of the 1800s. the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get any easier ing area fell under Frankisch (Charlemagne 782) and later Swiss hydropath Arnold Rikli spent 52 years in Bled, than this. The large scenic terrace of the villa’s café and under German rule. In 1004 the emperor Henrik II divided the founding the Institute of ‘natural healing’, and perfecting restaurant puts you inches from the lake, where you can lands between the two Sava Rivers, and in 1011 awarded a rehabilitation program of bathing, taking steam baths, you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy view, Bled Castle, to Bishop Albuin of Brixen - a photocopy of the walking, and eating vegetarian; which proved a hit. Indeed, while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also feature a original title deed can be found in the collection at the castle. Bled was later recognised as one of the most important full bistro-style menu of continental and regional fare, and This action was a major turning point in the history of Bled. tourist sites in the Austrian empire, receiving a gold Often accompanying a main course, štruklji are a traditional from dessert you’ll find a range of Bled’s famous creamy The keepers of the castle were bonded knights, who upheld medal in Vienna in 1903; having got its own train station Slovene dish often described as a type of filled dumpling, cakes. Q Open Mon-Thur 07:00-24:00, Fri-Sun 07:00-01:00. feudal authority in the name of the bishops. at Lesce in 1870. courtesy of BTB PTA6GBXSW

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Pizzeria Gallus Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 32 99, Gostilna Pri Planincu Grajska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 Cafés www.pizzeriagallus.si. Sure, you can come because of the 74 16 13, [email protected], www.pri-planincu. view, which is beautiful. You might also come to enjoy the pizza, com. Housed inside a charming traditional house dating Jasmin Cesta Svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)45 74 38 which is delicious and comes from a wood-fired oven. But the from 1903, one of Bled’s more well-known restaurants, 27, [email protected], www.jasmin-caji.si. reason why we enjoy coming here the most is the lively service. Gostilna Pri Planincu’s Alpine ambience is no coincidence Jolly good kremšnita and a pot of tea for shirt buttons Not only will you enjoy their traditional Tuscan food, but you will when you start unravelling the history of the area. With a inside a modern albeit basic café next to the tourist also be entertained by the waiters who will serve you kindly and small bar at the front and a dining area through a small office. The tea in question comes in lots of different take great pride in the restaurant’s food. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, passageway out the back, the traditional menu includes varieties and is served in dainty little pots. An ideal Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (€3.50-9.90). PTJAVBK many local favourites including Karst ham and assorted place to bring your aged aunt. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. home-made sausages. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€7-20). PAUGBX Pizzeria Matjaž Grajska 59, tel. +386 (0)45 74 23 TA6GBXS 60/+386 (0)31 84 18 75, www.pizzeriamatjaz.com. Kavarna Park Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 View overlooking the Karavanke mountains, check; ample Lovec Grill Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 6204 100, (0)45 79 18 18, [email protected], www. seating in cosy surroundings, check; pizzas baked in a [email protected], www.lovechotel.com. This newly hotelibled.com. Sitting opposite the Park hotel and wood-burning oven - of course! Located on the main road opened grill restaurant at the centrally located Hotel Lovec restaurant, on the banks of the lake is the result of the to Bled castle, parking is not a problem here, making for does a lot of things well. Professional service from a knowledg- legend that is Bled cream cake, or ‘Blejska Kremna the quickest possible access to a menu of over 20 types able staff, and the best place to sit is outside on the large Rezina’ in Slovene (see boxed text). The large open plan of pizza, plus grilled sandwiches and sardines in olive oil. terrace where chefs will prepare your meal right in front of kitchen has to work damn hard to keep up with demand Takeout also available. Q Open 14:00-24:00, Sat-Sun you while you enjoy the view towards the lake. The menu is on busy Sunday afternoons and they do it with grace and 12:00-24:00. LBS top quality from the starters to the desserts and every other ease. An absolute must! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €3.10. course in between, and many of the ingredients are bought PJAULB Pizzeria Rustika Riklijeva 13, tel. +386 (0) 45 76 89 from small-scale local farmers - or fishermen in the case of 00, [email protected], www.pizzeria-rustika. the freshly caught trout from the nearby Sava Bohinjska river. Planinček Café E-2, Prešernova 11, tel. +386 com. Snug in between the winding streets behind St Mar- Speaking of which, the grilled fish platter comes highly recom- (0)3 176 36 83, www.pekarna-planika.com. People tin’s Church, resides a cosy and friendly pizza restaurant in mended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PJALB squeeze into this quaint little cafe because it’s a social which those that may stumble upon it are rewarded with big meeting point for people heading off to work in the morn- portions of mouth-watering pizzas, salads and hamburgers. Mayer Želeška 7, tel. +386 (0)4 576 5740, penzion@may- ings; awaiting their turn for a caffeine fix and a take-away Its refreshing terrace and warm interior welcome you after a er-sp.si, www.mayer-sp.si. This popular family-run restaurant pastry from the bakery of the same name next door. day’s walk around Lake Bled. Home delivery available. QOpen and guesthouse serves up some of the best traditional Slovenian Originating from Gorenjska, Kranjska klobasa are a staple QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. 12:00 - 23:00. TAVGBK food in Bled, including pork and sausage specialities, fresh trout of most menus in the region, courtesy of BTB from local rivers and homemade skutini štruklji for dessert. Of Potičnica Bled Island, tel. +386 (0)4 576 79 Rikli Pizzeria Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 18 course there’s also a full menu of other Slovenian favourites and 01, [email protected], www.blejskiotok.si. 39, [email protected], www.sava-hotels-resorts.com. international dishes. There’s also superb selection of domestic Vila Ajda Cesta Svobode 27, tel. +386 (0)41 67 46 When it comes to sweets, Bled is first and foremost In the bustling heart of Bled, on the waterfront beneath the wines, and the possibility of a short tour of the wine cellar. QOpen 72/+386 (0)45 76 83 20, [email protected], www. known for its famous cream cakes, which originated Park Hotel, you can find the friendly Rikli Pizzeria. In fine weather, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PTJAIG vila-ajda.si. Come here if you want to try local specialities here in the 1950s. But in Slovenia as a whole, the nut you may prefer to enjoy your meal with a view from the outdoor in a romantic atmosphere! This typical alpine house offers roll cake known as potica is the traditional dessert terrace. The food is prepared with the freshest ingredients, and Penzion Mlino C-4, Cesta Svobode 45, tel. +386 favourable views of the lake, traditional Slovene food with of choice during most holidays and other important the menu boasts 15 types of pizza, including the house spe- (0)45 74 14 04, fax +386 (0)45 74 15 06, mlino@ a little creativity, dishes for diabetics and vegetarians, events. Most commonly made with walnut filling, cialty Rikli (with radishes and rucola) and a superb four-cheese. mlino.si, www.mlino.si. Known as a favourite amongst and the possibility of accommodation. There are several this bakery and shop on Bled’s island produces the The pizzeria also offers a wide selection of salads, vegetable connoisseurs and gourmands proves that this place rates spacious, fully equipped apartments on offer in addition to cakes in dozens of varieties, including both sweet pies, pasta with various sauces and some delectable desserts. five stars for its menu of typically Slovene cuisine. From the two floors of restaurant space seating up to 80 diners. and savoury, and no trip here is complete without QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PJAULGBKW season to season, the four walls of the guesthouse buzz The summer patio hosts another 80. JBKW trying a slice - or taking a whole cake to go. Q Open with a warm, lively atmosphere and even just outside 09:00-16:00 (Nov-Mar), 09:00-18:00 (Apr & Oct), the front door, the fun doesn’t stop as guests enjoy lake Zaka Župančičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 09, info@ 09:00-19:00 (May-Sept). Slovenian activities, walks and cycling around the area. Q 13 rooms bled-zaka.com, www.bled-zaka.com. Situated at a quiet Bled Castle Restaurant Grajska Cesta, tel. +386 (0)4 €25-35. T6UILGBKW corner of the lake, a 15-minute walk from the main tourist cen- Slaščičarna Šmon Grajska 3, tel. +386 (0)45 579 44 24, [email protected], www.hotelastoria- tre, Zaka is actually a retreat, but remains convenient, being 74 16 16, [email protected], www.smon.si. There is bled.com. An understandably popular venue for wedding Restaurant 1906 Kolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)4 575 close to the Bled-Jezero train station (up to five trains a day no doubt that this long-running café serves up some receptions, business meetings and important protocol events 26 10/+386 (0)4 575 26 11, [email protected], from Ljubljana). In addition to accommodation, a conference of the best cakes, pastries and ice-cream in all of Bled for the government, don’t worry if you haven’t been invited www.hoteltriglavbled.si. Located in the stately four-star hall, tennis courts and the rowing centre; good grilled dishes (or Slovenia for that matter). Opened in 1966, over the to any of these, as the restaurant is also open to individu- Hotel Triglav Bled (which, you guess it, was founded in 1906), including fresh fish can also be enjoyed in the restaurant or past half-century it’s built a reputation for producing als - you even get free admission to the castle if you make a a meal here is guaranteed to be a fine dining experience of on its terrace overlooking the lake. High quality food and an sweets of the highest quality. As such, during tea time reservation in advance. The modern Slovene cuisine include the highest order. The kitchen of head chef Andrej Rovan cre- abundance of it. ZHBKW and other peak hours Šmon can get fairly busy, and you specialities from all of the country’s surprisingly diverse ates some simply wonderful dishes, all of which are modern will be lucky enough to find a seat. The most popular regions, and the menu is regularly adapted to reflect the interpretations of traditional Slovene recipes, methods and choices on the menu are slices of the heavenly Šmon, season. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. PALB ingredients, with a touch of French and Mediterranean influ- Nightlife Grmada and Gibanica cakes. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. ence. In 2011, the restaurant, and its culinary school, were TJAULGBK Gostilna Murka Riklijeva 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 33 awarded the prestigious Jakob Prize, given each year at Slo- Bars & Pubs 40/+386 (0)41 24 59 18, [email protected], venia’s largest tourism fair to only one winner. PAW Apropos Cocktail Bar Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 Tropical Kava Bar Ljubljanska 4. One of two com- www.gostilna-murka.com. A typical Slovenian gostilna, 74 40 44, [email protected]. The main attraction pact (tiny) coffee bars tucked into a cosy corner in the or rather Gorenjska gostilna, the sausage and sauerkraut Union E-2, Ljubljanska 9, tel. +386 (0)45 78 01 50, of this café-cum-cocktail bar is the the sprawling terrace on outdoor shopping centre. Tropical Kava Bar’s theme is, being fine choices here, as well as other Slovene and also [email protected], www.union-bled.com. An almost the main courtyard of Bled’s shopping centre. The lake itself uncannily, just that. Miniature palms spring up from every pasta dishes, all served in massive portions. Murka is mainly hacienda feel inside what’s essentially a traditional, family is visible from where you sit sipping coffee by day and there’s orifice, giving the impression of being far away from the popular with locals, so it’s the perfect place to make that run Slovenian restaurant. The personal touch of the pro- regular live music on summer evenings, for those long island alps. This is agreeable for a while, then it’s best just to extra effort with a few phrases in the Slovene language. The prietors is served up along with a range of dishes cooked iced teas, etc. Their selection includes all the classics and face the truth and go back to reality, the paradise that is covered outdoor seating of the terrace is a nice place to over an open fire. Summertime sees the opening of a large none of the cheesy ‘sex-pun’ named ones, which gives us Lake Bled. A good place for a more serene coffee in the dine, out of the hot sun or indeed a summer shower. Extra terrace in the shade of a few chestnut trees, plus there’s the impression of a serious cocktail establishment, although busy summer season. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat offerings at Murka include schnapps and wine tastings, and a bar too, and a small selection of suites and apartments the interior decor is a bit uninspiring. On the plus side they 09:00 - 02:00. JNB medieval meals. Q Open 10:00-22:00, Sat-Sun and holidays upstairs if you’ve eaten and drunk too much to move. also have internet access and free moblile charging. QOpen 12:00-23:00. JALEB QOpen 17:30 - 23:30. TA6ILEGBXSW 08:00 - 24:00. JABW

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Check their Facebook page for event details. Located in Manasa Klub Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)30 26 snazzy selection of more than 300 local Slovene wines. It’s Bled Cream Cake the main shopping centre. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 78 93. Bled’s hottest club for commercial house, oldies and a classy start for some wine-tasting evenings with friends, 09:00 - 03:00. JNB Balkan music, Manasa organises regular parties for those family or business associates. Why not begin with a glass into the mainstream. Sure to be on your list of nightspots to of Cviček, a local favourite, or some excellent aromatic reds: Grajski Pub 1004 Grajska 22, tel. +386 (0)41 36 hit if you’re a young tourist in town, or young at heart for that like the Merlot or Refošk. Q Open Thur-Sun 17:00-19:00. 50 08. A fun little bar attached to the Grajski Hostel and matter. GoGo dancers have been spotted on occasion here, PJAUL out of the town centre close to the bus station, it’s probably so dressing to impress is a given. Their claim of ‘always open’ not worth hiking all the way up here unless you’re actually should be taken with a pinch of salt, followed by tequila and Zdravljica Cesta Svobode 7, tel. +386 (0)40 543 597, staying in the place, but if you do then expect to find a small lemon presumably. JA [email protected]. With over 120 Slovene wines bar kitted out in oak and a separate room with table football presented here for tasting and purchase, a visit constitutes and electronic darts machine. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat a voyage of discovery in terms of the country’s wine-making 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. R6LGW Casino tradition. The vintage wares from all of Slovenia’s winegrow- Casino Bled Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)45 ing regions make the inevitable degustation something that Old Cup Bar Cesta Svobode 8a. If you just want to 74 18 11, [email protected], www.casino-bled. one should plan extra time in one’s itinerary for, lovingly co- grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, this si. For those with spare time and money on their hands, ordinated by the house sommelier. Reservations preferable. is an ideal meeting spot. A large chestnut tree droops over this hotel-basement casino with roulette, card games QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. the terrace and shades against the scorching sun in the and more than a few electronic machines provides the summer time and the wind in the winter. There’s always a opportunity to fritter away plenty of both. Q Open 24hrs. vibrant atmosphere if you choose to sit indoors, where you POAEGBX What to see will find groups of friends propping up the bar. They serve Much more than just the iconic castle and island, Bled and Cream cakes, known in Bled for decades, are in fact the a selection of pub food: sandwiches, pizza and kebabs. surrounding mountains offer a multitude to see and do. town’s symbol. Although you can buy them elsewhere, QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PTJAR6LGB Wine Visit the helpful tourist office for more detailed information those from Bled are simply the best. Ištvan Lukačevič, the Bled Castle Wine Cellar Grajska 61, tel. +386 (0)51 on what is available during your stay. former manager of Hotel Park patisserie, tested recipes for Pub Bled Cesta Svobode 19a, tel. +386 (0)45 74 26 20 32 56/+386 (0)31 23 13 08, janez@manufaktura. many years before he finally succeeded. His cream cakes, 22. One of Bled’s top party places, with a large selection of org, manufaktura.org. A special experience in itself, the which are prepared at this patisserie and sold in the café mixed drinks and cocktails and DJs most nights, it attracts only wine here is the house wine of the castle (Blejski grad), Natural Attractions opposite the hotel, are famous. What is the secret? a varied mix of tourists, students and local party animals. that of the Dornberg cellars. Medieval traditions are cel- Hills around the lake Straža A leisurely walk to the top, In fact, there is no secret - only experience matters, and There’s also a big screen TV that more often than not is ebrated and rituals relived, not least the festivities tied up or chairlift, allows visitors to enjoy views of the lake from the the cooks from Bled have plenty of that. Since 1953 they tuned to some live sporting event, and if you manage to with producing this most precious of liquids. The Rajsko vino south-east, the castle and also Mt. Stol in the middle distance. have been serving up ‘Kremšnita’ here, October 2009 stop by in the morning for a glass of your preferred hang over (Paradise wine) is an extra special product, first produced to Both summer and winter activities are possible here, it being seeing the 10 millionth slice unveiled in a whirl of glory at remedy you can enjoy nice views of the castle and free wire- commemorate the town’s 1000 year anniversary (2004), the best place to ski in Bled itself. the annual carnival in its honour. less internet. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. and can be purchased with a certificate and informative Osojnica Perhaps the best known spot for Bled’s burgeon- Let us tempt you with the recipe: a golden crispy crust made PR6EGBXW film recording. Tastings are organised for groups of over 10, ing portfolio of photography, especially by the professionals, from butter dough (mixed with butter, not margarine), a deli- reservations being necessary outside regular opening hours. Osojnica is a 45 minute trek on a steep forest path, rising cious vanilla cream of exactly the right consistency (with Pub Lovec Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)45 76 86 15. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. first to a peak of 685m (Mala Osojnica) then to 756m (Velika exactly the right amount of flour - if there is too much the Next to and part of the hotel of the same name, this clean Osojnica), offering views of the main mountain ranges to the cakes are no good, if too little, they collapse after cutting), cafeteria-feel establishment features chunky oak furniture Vinoteka Vinarte Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 east, and the whole Gorenjska plain. topped with whipped cream and a crispy layer of butter and a friendly smile as you walk in the door. Actually split (0)4 579 13 32, [email protected], www.sava- Ojstrica The narrow peaked mountain by name is a relatively dough and finally, last but not least, a good dusting of icing into two, the section to the right acts more as a café, hotels-resorts.com. All the classic wine-cellar elements easy walk from Camping Bled (turn left if coming from town), sugar. You see? Your mouth is watering already. with the left-hand section dedicated to the provision of are elegantly presented in this chic wine bar. It’s got the the said peak of which offering really good views of the lake alcohol with a slightly more bar-like ambience. QOpen stone walls and ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and a and campsite. 17:00 - 23:00. PTA6LGBX Art Café Cesta Svobode 7a, tel. +386 (0)45 76 71 79, [email protected]. A popular social hangout for the Union Bar 99 Ljubljanska 11, tel. +386 (0)45 78 01 younger clientele, especially students from the nearby IEDC 19/+386 (0)41 341 494, [email protected], www. Bled School of Management who like to stop by and mingle union-bled.com/slo-bar.htm. Part of a guesthouse and amongst themselves. When there’s an important sports event restaurant of the same name, the Union Bar 99 is a popular on TV, the place fills up fast and so do the glasses! The wide, hangout on warm summer nights. Frequently enough, a grill open terrace that overlooks the lake also brings a steady flow of is prepared up on the terrace amongst crowds of locals, hotel tourists. The gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds guests and tourists. All major sporting events are shown on a touch of charm to its homey interior. Definitely, a satisfying the big screen and there’s free WiFi. The décor of the interior choice for day and night time entertainment. QOpen 07:00 - is charming and the service top-notch. For the morning after 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. they even serve breakfast. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat PJA6ILGBXW 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JRLGB

Devil Bar Caffe Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)45 74 21 10. Cheeky cavorting imps seducing naked women Clubs over the bar, organ pipes on the walls, Cuban cigars and Kult Klub Ljubljanska 4, [email protected]. toasted sandwiches all add up to one of Bled’s most The almost waterfront terrace (just across the street from the popular spots, not least for the magnificent view over the lake) is the place to be during summer nights in Bled. The views lake, packs a mixed crowd in on two floors and a large ter- are great, there’s usually a nice cool breeze coming off the wa- race for daily lunch specials and heavy late-night drinking ter, and live concerts of varying genres and styles are held quite sessions. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JAB frequently. Don’t let the name intimidate you either, you won’t feel out of place here if you forgot to pack your black leather Fashion Caffe Ljubljanska 4. Although it’s technically jeans and/or have a noticeable lack of tattoos. It is however a café by name, the main spirit of this quite tiny venue lies located on the ground floor of the Bled Shopping Centre, which in it’s night-time atmosphere. Popular with a young local is more commonly referred to as the Gadafi Centre amongst (albeit small) crowd, they sometimes host guest DJs for in- locals, but apparently has no relation to the eccentric former timate techno/house parties. There are a couple of tables Libyan dictator (at least that we’re aware of). QOpen 07:00 - With a constant flow of tourists from around the world, there’s always something to do at night in Bled - especially during outside for smoking and of course a coffee in daylight hours. 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. YAEB the many events that take place during the year, such as the Bled Days Festival seen here, photo courtesy of BTB

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Pokljuka Canyon Besides the famous Vintgar gorge Bled Castle you can visit a beautiful canyon near Krnica. The long and Museums & Galleries Cycling trips dramatic void is the remainder of the Ribščice stream, carved Catbriyur Porcelain Cesta Svobode 18, tel. +386 (0)4 during the retreat of glaciers into limestone rock. It is the larg- 574 39 17, [email protected], www.catbriyur. est fossil canyon in Slovenia. Here we also find some karst ne. Handcrafted by Slovene couple Katja and Jure Bricman, features, such as a natural bridge, overhanging rocks and Catbriyur porcelain has long been recognised as some of the caves. The most famous is the Pokljuka gorge. Last century finest functional art pieces to be produced in the country. a narrow footbridge was built at the canyon’s narrowest point While strictly speaking their premises in Bled are more a and subsequently named after a Serbian prince. shop than a gallery, that doesn’t mean you can’t stop by to browse - just be careful you don’t break anything, as many of The Cave Under Babji Zob Like Slovenia’s best known the items are in the ‘price on request’ range. Distinguished by cave system, Postojna, the Babji Zob (or Hag’s Tooth) caves their irregular shapes and design, each cup, plate, tray, clock became popular with visitors in the 19th century. Although and piece of jewellery is literally one of kind, although there much smaller than its bigger sister, there are some impres- are several different series executed in the same motifs and sive stalactite formations here, as well as spiral stalactites styles. If our recommendation is not enough for you, proud and calcite crystals. Accessible for the unexperienced and owners of Catbriyur porcelain include Vladimir Putin, the King spontaneous; there are arranged paths, electric lights, and of Norway and most famously Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth it’s open for all from May to August. Just turn up at 10:00 II, who was presented an exclusive gold-encrusted Royal on Sunday morning, if you make it out of bed. Otherwise Collection tea set during her official state visit to Slovenia a give the folks at the Society for Cave Research (Društvo za few years ago. If you were interested in making a purchase Raziskovanje Jam) a call and arrange your visit. The cave by which to remember your time in the Slovenian Alps, the There is a wealth of opportunity in terms of cycling and entrance is located above the villages of Bohinjska Bela and most appropriate item is perhaps the small bell that was mountain biking around Bled. For the latter, special Kupljenik (about 6km from Bled). Q Organised visits at 10:00 inspired by Bled’s own Legend of the Sunken Bell. QOpen trips can be arranged through outdoor activity agen- Bled Castle Tel. +386 (0)4 572 97 82, fax +386 on Sundays from May-Aug or by prior arrangement. 10:00 - 13:00 & 15:00-18:00. cies, but there are also lots of villages, forests, gravel (0)4 572 97 72, [email protected], www. tracks and rivers to be explored on your own. blejski-grad.si. Perched quite dramatically high up on Etnogalerija Pletna Cesta Svobode 37, tel./fax +386 For further information and maps visit the Tourist a cliff overlooking the lake and town, Bled Castle is the Churches (0)45 74 37 02, [email protected], www.pletna.com. A Information Centre in Bled: Cesta Svobode 10, stuff of children’s dreams. First mentioned in the year Church of the Assumption Bled island, tel. +386 tourist information point with a rich selection of homemade (+386) 45 74 11 22. Bicycle/mountain bike rental is 1011, it is officially the oldest castle in Slovenia having (0)45 72 93 80, [email protected], www.blejskiotok. products plus arts and crafts. available at outdoor activity agencies such as Helia or celebrated its one thousand year anniversary in 2011. si. Sticking out of the island in the middle of the lake, the Life Adventures in Bled, plus many more. Built and added to haphazardly over the centuries, Church of the Assumption has been much battered by earth- Gallery 14 Prešernova 14, tel. +386 (0)4 574 34 63, nowadays the castle is a photogenic mash of styles. Of quakes and lightning over the centuries. Several churches [email protected], www.studiocerne.si. A superb gal- Bled - Zgornja Radovna the many sights located on the castle’s premises, you have occupied this prime location since one was first built lery space for Bled, from the Studio Černe outfit in Ljubljana. Bled - Radovna Valley - Zgornja Radovna can visit a small but informative museum of the region’s here in the 12th century. The current incarnation is from the With exhibition activities in contemporary art and sculpture, history from the first human settlements till the present 17th century. Inside, the impressive altar and the last surviv- plus high quality artistic equipment and materials, it’s a Length: 37km/4hours day, a 16th century chapel, the wine cellar, an herbal ing frescoes from an earlier Gothic church are worth a look. welcome addition to the cultural scene in town. The house Difficulty: medium/hard gallery, a recreated Gutenberg printing press (that still in which the gallery resides, on Prešernova Cesta, bequeaths Surface: asphalt/gravel track sees heavy work printing souvenirs for visitors) and of St Martin’’s Church Riklijeva 26, www.zupnija-bled. the heritage of one especially well known Černe, namely Jo- course a restaurant with breathtaking views of the lake si. A white neo-Gothic beauty erected in 1905, St Martin’s sef, an ancestor of the modern gallery owning family whose This trip takes you first to the little village of Gorje, where below and mountains beyond. Q Open 08:00-20:00 was designed by same architect who was responsible for saddle-making was known all the way to Vienna. There are you’ll see a picturesque Church of St George. From Gorje from April to October, 08:00-18:00 November-March. Vienna’s town hall, and it shows in the sheer verticality of the two spaces here, 30m2 each, with temporary and permanent you can also turn right to visit Vintgar gorge (a short Admission €8/6/3.50 for adults/students/children, with building. The church is surrounded by the walls which had to exhibitions of a diverse range of Slovene and foreign artists’ distance away). After a well-earned rest at a pub, you discounts for groups of 10 or more. protect the earlier church from Ottoman incursions, and the works. QOpen Thu, Fri 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09.00 - 13:00. will pass through Zgornje Gorje, Krnica then Radovna. interior has frescoes from the late 1930s. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. The Radovna valley, one of the most beautiful in Goren- jska, runs for 16km and is surrounded by breathtaking Iglica waterfall Bohinjska Bela One of the jewels of Sales Gallery Bled Island Tel. +386 (0)4 576 79 01, mountains and green hills. Along the way watch out for Bled’s surrounding nature, Iglica waterfall is a 25m plume [email protected], www.blejskiotok.si. Napoleon’s stone - engraved with the signature of the of water that plunges down a limestone rock face, many Q Open 09:00-16:00 (Nov-Mar), 09:00-18:00 (Apr) and old emperor himself. Note that only the first two and of which nearby serve as climbing walls. Here on the Suha 09:00-19:00 (May-Oct). half kilometres is tarmac, the rest of the way to Zgornja stream, the fall is best admired in spring, a wooden stairway Radovna being gravel. allowing access to the great surrounding views on the clifftop. The trip back is a more adrenaline-filled downhill drag Signposted from the village of Bohinjska Bela, south east of Symbols of Bled - taking only about a third of the time it takes to get Bled lake by the road to Bohinj. Educational Beehouse Selo pri Bledu, tel. +386 (0)41 there. 65 71 20/+386 (0)41 22 74 07, www.kralov-med.si. Mežakla Mežakla is a long undulating plateau about 15 km Get a taste for good healthy Slovenian honey whilst in Bled, long, in the foothills of the Julian Alps. It is mostly covered with but not before you’ve earned it! By taking a one to two hour Fijaker Coachmen Tel. +386 (0)41 69 34 41/+386 spruce and beech trees. There are many pastures and clear tour, you will see about 50 bee families at work (providing (0)31 31 68 02, www.fijaker-bled.si. Proud of their tradi- streams on the plateau. Mežakla is part of Triglav National you come in season), admire the traditional hand-painted tion, the Bled coachmen offer their services of horse drawn Park, and can be easily accessed by forest road in Spodnje beehive panels, and learn and observe the life of the diligently carriage transport every day of the year. Treat your loved Gorje. The main attraction is a natural bridge and hidden renowned Carniolan bee. Only then can you taste and buy the one to a ride, be it rain or shine, their special umbrellas will partisan hospital. produced golden stuff. Beehive panel painting workshops stave off the elements should the latter threaten to dampen take place under a typical Slovene kozolec (hayrack), and one’s spirits. Tradition can be seen most of all in the Fijaker Lake Bled Bled’s most famous feature is the crystal-clear children can delight in natural science days. Beekeeper Blaž uniform, complete with a jacket adorned of ruby red Gorenjska lake which has an island crowned by the 55-metre tower of Ambrožič will be your guide, with up to 20-30 visitors hosted carnations, their top hats bouncing along as they whisk you the Baroque Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of at any one time. Located just south of Bled, in the village of almost anywhere in Bled lake’s vicinity or further afield, and mountains makes this view especially irresistable. Visitors Selo pri Bledu. even wait for a romantic drink or meal to be enjoyed, to then can take a boat tour to the island (€12) on characteristic take you back. Turn up at their station in front of Festival Hall pletna boats, which include half an hour to wander around (Festivalna dvorana) in the summer months to find them wait- or visit the church. Boats leave from the Health Park, at Swans are some of Bled’s most famous inhabitants, www.inyourpocket.com ing, in winter but their sign and contact details, on which you Hotel Park and at the rowing centre. courtesy of BTB can also buy a gift voucher for the said loved one.

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Pletna Boats Tel. +386 (0)41 427 155, tdbled@ Annual Events telemach.net, www.td-bled.si. There’s a local saying, Hiking Around Bled whereby one hasn’t really visited Bled without taking a ride in one of its traditional Pletna boats. Thought to have perhaps May - September August derived from the German ‘plateboot’, meaning flat bottomed Arts and Crafts Fair Zdraviliški park Slovene crafts- Okarina Ethno Music Festival www.festival-okarina.si. boat, the Pletna has a history stretching back to the end of men and artisans peddle their wares in traditional market Organised every year since 1990, the programme director the 16th Century. Since then, the respected profession of style every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from May to of the festival is Leo Ličof - a connoisseur and dedicated oarsman has been handed down through generations, with September. A superb variety of distinct gifts can be found lover of ethno music. Each August stages in Bled come a special technique of standing rowing mastered by but a here, and dare we say the odd bargain. alive with performances by Slovene and foreign ethno few. So board the wooden vessel at its widened stern, its musicians, and the event continues to gain popularity pointed bow aimed at the other side of the turquoise waters, year after year. or squarely at the island, and be carried across, protected June from the sun or rain by its colourful awning. Pletna piers are Medieval Days at Bled Castle www.blejski-grad.si. Bled Mini Marathon and Recreational Run (Blejski located under the Spa Park, under the Park Hotel Bled café The origins of Bled’s thousand year history are of course Maraton) www.bled.si. Another of Bled’s many annual in Mlino and in Velika Zaka. Q Open Nov - Mar 08:00-18:00, connected with its clifftop castle, the oldest in Slovenia by sport events, the Bled Marathon includes both a 21km half- Sun & holidays 08:00-13:00; April - June & Sept - Oct 08:00- written records. The heart of the Brixen estate in Carniola, marathon and a 6km recreational run around the lake. 19:00, Sun & holidays 11:00-17:00; Jul - Aug 08:00-21:00, the castle buildings and courtyards were undoubtedly Sun & holidays 10:00-18:00. Tickets €12. the scene of much tumultuous happenings, lest we say barbarisms. Performances at the festival in memory of September this period include medieval music, a market, tasting of Bled Strategic Forum www.bledstrategicforum.org. Tourist train delicacies, and of course battle. The Bled Strategic Forum is intended to promote a high-level Departing from the Sports Hall (Športna Dvorana) Ljubljan- strategic dialogue between leaders from the private and ska Cesta 5, the tourist train in Bled will whisk families, public sectors on the key issues facing Europe and the 21st the elderly, infirm, or just plain lazy around the lake for 45 July century world. The aim of the Forum is to generate new strat- minutes. Runs up to 20 times per day in summer. Bled Days and Bled Night www.bled.si. Held on egies capable of allowing Europe to better use its strategic a late July weekend each year, this festival is one of the space and leverage, and also to attract political commitments summer’s main festivals in Bled, and consists of a diverse to these strategies. In addition, the forum offers a platform for Sport & Activities schedule of events ranging from a daily arts and crafts cooperation between the private and public sectors aimed Known primarily for the beauty of its lake, castle and Hiking Around Bled Bled is situated in the middle fair and children’s puppet shows to street theatre per- at developing common integrated approaches to resolving island-bound church, Bled also offers a wealth of sports of several mountain ranges, namely the Julian Alps, formances and concerts. One event not to be missed is outstanding challenges and tackling new ones. opportunities for professionals, enthusiasts and families. Karavanke mountains and further to the east the Kamnik the traditional lighting of candles on the lake followed by a For taking in the natural sights of the area there are Alps, all of which form the awesome views from the lake fireworks display from the castle. See the official website Bled Triathlon www.trisport-klub.si. If you feel like numerous walking, hiking, cycling and horseback riding itself. In the immediate vicinity are mountains of medium for the complete programme. going for a little 1500m swim, followed by a 40km bike opportunities, while a bird’s eye view can be had by parag- elevation, such as Galetovec and Lipanca at Pokljuka, ride, and topped off with a short 10km run, then the Bled liding or ballooning. In addition, there are fine facilities for Mežakla (between Bled and the town of Jesenice) and Bled Music Festival www.festivalbled.com. Last- Triathlon was made just for you! If you’re not up for the golf, mini golf, beach volleyball and tennis. Centred around Jelovica (in Talež). Lipanca is also home to the Bled ing a couple of weeks, the festival is centred around a rigours of the course outlined above, there are many other a lake and rivers, there are also many water sports to Mountaineering Club and its mountain hut (+386 45 74 series of classical music concerts that take place almost races taking place at the same time with lengths suitable choose from, including swimming, rafting, fishing, rowing 26 05), the perfect place to start your trip. nightly in different venues - including Bled’s Festival Hall, for amateurs. It’s possible to register via the internet. and for those who’d like to get a bit more extreme diving, If the medium heights are more of a testing ground for St Martin’s Church, Vila Bled and Radovljica’s magnificent canyoning and hydrospeed. Surrounded by the Alps, you than the final goal, trips further afield will surely Baroque Hall. In addition to the performances, there is sports such as skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, ice skating ensue; the beautiful yet technically not too-demanding an international viola and violin competition, which draws November and ice climbing are popular during the winter months. And trails to Begunjščica (2060m), Stol (2236m) and Debela some of the best young competitors from around the Oberkrainer Festival www.bled.si. This celebration last but not least, for technophiles there is ample opportu- Peč (2015m) are good options. There are also numerous world, a series of nine week-long master classes led by of Oberkrainer music, a traditional Slovene folk style that nity to hunt for treasure using so-called geocaching apps others in the aforementioned ranges to be discovered. renowned composers and musicians from eight different is akin to the polka and waltz, will feature performances on your smartphone or other GPS-enable devices. Aside from marked trails, the mountains can be traversed countries, and an art exhibition featuring well-known by various internationally renowned ensembles, and is with a guide from one of the agencies in Bled, which is Slovene artists. First held in 1996, the festival has since guaranteed to liven up the town for at least one late autumn also recommended for trips to Triglav 2864m (unless grown to be one of the biggest and most important of its weekend. In addition to music, plenty of traditional food you are an experienced mountaineer). type in central Europe. and drinks are also on hand, and the event always attracts Should you be restrained by inexperienced company, thousands of visitors from Austria and Germany - where there’s always the Vintgar gorge, castle hill or one of Night Run Around Lake Bled (Nočna 10km) Oberkrainer is perhaps even more popular than in Slovenia the small hills lakeside to conquer to introduce your hill- www.nocna10ka.net. As the name suggests, this unique - as well as from Italy, Hungary and elsewhere. virgin friends to the joys of hiking. Why, even the Church take on the traditional 10km race takes place after the of the Assumption on Bled island has 99 steps to be sun goes down. Participants compete in one of five age ascended in style. groups, and the course consists of more than two laps December around lake. The main event begins at 22:00, while a Merry December in Bled www.bled.si. Christmas recreational 1.2km run leaves at 21:00, and a 400m and time in Bled is as an important time as anywhere else, 800m children’s run at 20:00. with events held throughout the month of December. Agencies The highlights are undoubtedly the Sinking of the Bell on 3glav Adventures Ljubljanska 1, tel. +386 (0)41 Rikli’s Sport Days Swiss doctor Arnold Rikli was Christmas night (which is based on a centuries-old legend 683 184, [email protected], www.3glav- one of the first people to recognise the value and health involving murder, nuns, the Pope and of the actual sinking of adventures.com. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00-19:00. benefits of Bled’s climate and location. He developed a bell) and New Year’s Eve celebrations along the waterfront Open May-September. his own healing methods based on the effects of light, with an almost legendary fireworks display. Every weekend Agency Amigo Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)59 air and water, and went on to found the Natural Health in December there is also a full programme of events for 73 25 0/+386 (0)31 79 19 01, [email protected], Institute in 1855. To commemorate the good doctor’s children and arts fair held at Hotel Park, while on Christmas www.amigo.si. contributions both to health and tourism in Bled, a series eve and Christmas day you can catch a glimpse of Santa Bled Tours Ljubljanska 19, tel. +386 (0)31 32 11 00, of sporting events is held the first weekend of every July, Claus himself riding around the town on a horse-drawn fax +386 (0)45 76 90 30, [email protected], www. which includes tennis and miniature golf tournaments, and sleigh. A full programme of the month’s events can be found bledtours.si. a recreational walk. on the city’s official website. Step back in time on a carriage ride with the Fijaker Helia D-1, Trubarjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)31 54 45 44, info@ coachmen, courtesy of BTB helia.si, www.helia.si.

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Fun Rafting Cesta Svobode 4, tel. +386 (0)51 64 50 for a small fee, or you can just bring your own and hide under Bled Labyrinth 50, [email protected], www.funrafting.com. the shade of the trees along the beach. A water slide on the premises is perfect for those coming with kids. Bled Labyrinth Grajska 34, tel. +386 (0)31 303 509, [email protected], www.labirint-bled.si. Sport Hall Opened in 2011, this giant 2 hectare labyrinth sits just Bled Sport Hall Ljubljanska 5, tel. +386 (0)4 578 05 Thematic trails below Bled’s famous castle and is only 100m from the 38. Bled’s large sports hall has been host to a number of Blejko the goblin is hiding on Bled’s fairy castle trail, wait- lake. Combining corn, forest and grass sections, it is sports, culture presentations and concerts. Some of the ing for the kids to find him, and the Rikli fitness promenade more than just a simple maze, it’s a natural theme park most important events that occur are during the winter. Try is sure to keep the adults happy in the mean time. There’s with plenty of things to see and do - besides getting lost. to catch an ice-hockey match or watch the graceful figure also the Ornithology path at Bled golf course, which Imagined as a way to both entertain visitors, the entire skaters. The sports hall proudly hosted the European Youth through well marked signs teaches walkers more about site is dotted with information points explaining various Winter Olympic Festival, the World Junior Championships in the life of birds, species and behaviour. At 3km it is a good aspects of the natural environment, as well as interactive ice hockey in 2003 and the Finale World Junior Cup in figure length, while not being too demanding, sticking to fields stations where children and adults alike can participate in skating. Throughout the year numerous concerts take place and forest. Once a week there’s a guided walk with a local fun activities and learn new things at the same time. The in the hall, so be sure to check out the programme while you’re bird expert, who can also be hired anytime through Sava labyrinth is especially well-suited for families on a sum- in town. The sports hall is also available for graduate dances, Hotels Bled. mer outing to Bled, and is also a popular destination for congresses and business meetings. school groups, birthday parties, team-building activities and workshops. Of course individuals are also more than Straža Hill welcome too. To get their by car, just follow the signs to Swimming Bled Castle and park in the lot just after the castle road, Castle Bathing Veslaška Promenada 1, tel. +386 (0)4 Adventure Park Straža, tel. +386 (0)31 76 16 61, the labyrinth is about 100m down the gravel road from 578 05 28, [email protected], www.infrastruk- [email protected], www.pustolovski- there. Alternatively, if you’re coming on foot just follow tura-bled.si. Just below Bled’s castle rock, a grassy beach park-bled.si. A family adventure park with suspended the path around the lake, and turn up the hill at Zlatorog awaits those that want to go swimming in beautiful Bled lake. footbridges, monkey bars, suspension bridges, cara- Villa. Q Open 13 July - 31 August 10:00-19:00, 1 Sept The swimming area is protected and kept clean for the safety biners and zip cords, Adventure Park (or Pustolovksi - 31 Oct 11:00-18:00. Admission €6, children, students of guests, and you can also rent a sun-bed, umbrella or mat Park in Slovene) is suitably situated in a forest. The 65 and pensioners €5, family ticket €14. attractions and challenges are both professionally built to EU standards and constructed with respect for the natural surroundings. You’ll not find any tubular painted Kompas Bled Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 72 75 00, steel here, just logs, ropes and the odd steel cable to fax +386 (0)45 74 15 18, [email protected], www. aid the adrenaline-filled descent from your suspended It’s impossible not to relax in a setting like this, courtesy kompas-bled.si. activities (between one and eight metres high). Popular of BTB Life Adventures Grajska 10, tel. +386 (0)4 20 14 with families, adults and groups alike; there are five 875/+386 (0)40 50 88 53, [email protected], www. differently coloured climbing tracks of varying difficulty. lifeadventures.si. A brief safety course and all equipment are provided Wellness Lifetrek Bled Agency Grajska 10, tel. +386 (0)40 508 before entrance to the park. Located at the top of Živa Wellness Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386)4 579 17 853, www.lifetrek-slovenia.com. Straža ski centre. Q Open only at the weekends and 02, [email protected], www.wellness-ziva.com. Živa holidays from early April till late June and in October. means several things in Slovenian, one of them being ‘lively’ Open everyday during the summer. See website for exact - and that’s just how you’ll feel after a full body and soul Golf hours and prices. solution at this wellness centre. With a holistic approach to Bled Golf & Country Club Vrba 37a, tel. +386 (0)4 physical rejuvenation, there’s a wide range of massage avail- 537 7711, [email protected], www.golfbled.com. Straža Ski Centre Rečiška 2, tel. +386 (0)45 78 able, body and facial treatments, plus a variety of saunas, Situated only 4km from the town centre, Bled Golf Course 05 34, fax +386 (0)45 78 05 11, info@infrastruktu- and a plethora of water based delights to be lapped up; two first opened in 1937 and was redesigned by famous golf ra-bled.si, www.infrastruktura-bled.si. Six hectares storeys of thermal pools, and of course a whirlpool. Well if it architect Donald Harradine in 1972. It’s the oldest Slovenian of ski trails can be found but a stone’s throw from Bled was good enough for Arnold Rikli! QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri, golf course and is said to be one of the most beautiful lake, or a rather easier stone’s throw to Bled lake. Sat 07:00 - 23:00. PTAULG golf courses in central Europe. The green fees are not Albeit compact compared with classic ski centres, it is the cheapest in the country, but one look at the stunning so convenient for those staying in the town, and at the vistas and the impressive course itself, and most players time of writing very competitively priced, proving to be will consider it well worth it. There is both an 18-hole course a very viable option for winter visitors. Artificial snow Directory and 9-hole short course, and real enthusiasts can combine and lighting for evening skiing are both on hand, mean- them for a 27 holes of golfing bliss in a single day. Q 18 ing you can enjoy the slopes no matter the weather or Business schools time of day. holes €60/70 on weekdays/at the weekend, 9 holes €35. IEDC Bled School of Management Prešernova Discount packages are available for weekend stays, see Summer Sledding Straža, tel. +386 (0)4 578 33, tel. +386 (0)4 579 25 00, [email protected], www. the website for more info. iedc.si. Founded in 1986, this management school was Mini golf Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)41 840 05 30/+386 (0)31 330 647, info@infrastruktura- bled.si, www.infrastruktura-bled.si. This used to be one of the first of its kind to open its doors in Central and 079. With 3628 square metres of area, 18 holes and 228 Eastern Europe as well as further afield. The school’s metres of total length this is one of the largest classic sport we enjoyed during the winter time, but now Bled has come up with a brand new summer adrenaline gallery is also an attraction in itself. See the website for mini golf playgrounds in Europe! A host of competitions more information. are held here, but most of all miniature golf, as we all experience. The sledding centre itself is perched up know, is about swinging your club in anger at a sibling on Bled’s higher slopes with the view of the lake and Photography opponent. Don’t forget to bring good sportsmanship castle. The sledding tracks are 520 metres in length, with your competitive spirit!QOpen 09:30-23:00 April to with an elevation difference of 131 metres, with sleds Sitra Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)4 574 13 25, foto@ October. reaching speeds of up to 40km/h - a real roller-coaster sitra.si, www.sitra.si. In a prime location, Sitra offers ride! You will have to get up to the centre by one of the all the photography supplies tourists could ever need - cable-car railways. Q Open 10:00-20:00 every day and many that professionals would be after - including Rafting from 22 June to 1 Sept, 11:00-18:00 Sat-Sun only 35mm film and digital memory cards. The small shop Adventure Rafting Grajska 21, tel. +386 (0)51 678 from 27 April to 21 June and in Sept, and 11:00-17:00 is situated within the main shopping centre by the lake. 008/+386 (0)4 57 44 041, [email protected], One of the world’s most beautiful courses is reason Sat-Sun only in Oct. €5-14. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. www.adventure-rafting.si. enough for golfers to come to Bled, photo courtesy of BTB

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Where to stay Bohinj Guest Card Along the lake and in the surounding villages and moun- tainside, Bohinj offers an impressive number of quality www.bohinj.si. If you are spending more than a couple accommodation options, from the 5-star Bohinj Park Eco of hours in Bohinj, and let’s face it you should be, then Hotel, to a hostel and countless smaller family places, as you might want to consider getting a Bohinj Guest Card well as two good campsites for those who want to stay (family cards available). The card entitles visitors to great as close to nature as possible. discounts at heaps of places around Bohinj - save 15% off bicycle and canoe hire; 50% off admission to the impressive Mostnica Korita; get discounted food and Upmarket drinks plus much much more. You can also purchase a Bohinj Park ECO Triglavska 17, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. card that entitles free parking in Bohinj. +386 (0)8 200 40 00, [email protected], www.bohinj-park- hotel.si. Bohinj Park is the first certified ECO hotel in Slovenia. During the colder months there is now need to leave the friendly, tranquil and comfortable. Understated luxury compli- premises at all, with a complete resort at your very fingertips! ments the serenity of nature which emanates from all around. The hotel offers exceptional comfort in all its rooms and suites, The soothing soundtrack is provided by the nearby Savica as well as a classy restaurant and bar. There are wellness and brook. The restaurant and wine-cellar finish off an event- spa facilities in the hotel itself or you can pop over to the Aq- ful day in style, with the finest Slovenian and International uaPark for even more health programmes. Another fabulous cuisine and wines. Paradise for the discerning traveller with amenity is a Bowling Centre which includes 5 professional an appreciation for nature. Q 8 rooms (€50-60 per person). bowling lanes - lots of fun awaiting the whole family. Q 102 HAILGBKD hhhh rooms, 8 suites. PTHARUIFLGBKCW hhhhh Mid-range Jelka Goreljek 93, tel. +386 (0)4 206 00 10/+386 Bohinj Ribčev Laz 45, tel. +386 (0)4 577 02 10/+386 (0)31 761 672, fax +386 (0)4 206 00 29, info@hotel- (0)40 12 71 12, fax +386 (0)4 577 02 15, info@hotel- jelka.si, hotel-jelka.si. Located in the Triglav National bohinj.com, www.hotel-bohinj.com. A pleasant hotel, Park, Jelka is Pokljuka’s newest hotel, and offers guests a perched up on a hill with satisfying rooms that gaze out on the superb mountain retreat with excellent facilities, such as forests and mountains in the distance. The walk to the lake a spa and sauna centre and winter ice skating rink. The will take you a few minutes, and you can also enjoy a variety chalet style hotel looks out over impressive meadows, of activities at your doorstep. The tasteful and understated woods and mountains which turn into a snowy wonderland in furnishings as well as helpful and professional staff guarantee winter - the ideal setting for spending days hiking, biking and a pleasant stay. Good value accommodation. Q 55 rooms Carved by glaciers and endowed with limitless natural beauty, Bohinj Lake is simply breathtaking, photo by Jošt Gantar skiing, then relaxing in the evenings at Jelka’s restaurant, (doubles €40-55, suites €90-120). PTJHA6UI� courtesy of Picture Slovenia which serves delicious local fare, or enjoying a mulled wine LEGBKW hhhh beside the open fire place. Q Singles €65-95, doubles The alpine valley of Bohinj is located in the stunning Triglav €90-150 with breakfast. Half- and full-board also available. National Park, and its surroundings are truly unspoiled with By Bus PTILKDW hhh the feeling of mass tourism is nowhere to be found. There are numerous daily buses from Ljubljana to Bohinj. People here are the definition of amiable, attentive and They leave every hour on the hour throughout the day and Jezero Ribčev Laz 51, tel. +386 (0)4 572 91 00, fax courteous. This is where you come if you want to be the journey takes two hours. +386 (0)4 572 90 39, [email protected], www. treated as a guest, not as a client. Everyone here knows bohinj.si. This hotel scores top marks in location, being right each other and there’s a genuine sense of camaraderie. up on the banks of Lake Bohinj and within easy access to ven- You’ll see them recommending each others’ restaurants Tourist information ues in the town centre. The rooms are large with reasonably and hotels, instead of being overly competitive and trying comfortable furnishings, and the views from the balconies to hoard all the tourists. Not once from all the places we’ve TIC - Bohinj Tourist Office Ribčev Laz 48, tel. come no better than here. It’s a good option for families, visited did we encounter bad service, or good service that +386 (0)4574 60 10, fax +386 (0)4572 33 30, who can make use of its indoor swimming pools, sauna, mini didn’t seem genuine. Just don’t expect a lot of frills. Night- [email protected], www.bohinj-info.com. As golf, gym facilities, restaurant and café bar. Overall, it strikes life is practically non-existent and overly luxurious hotels well as offering helpful advice to visitors the Bohinj a good balance between comfort and practicality. Q 71 are hard to find. Come here to ski at one of several resorts Tourism Information Centre in Ribčev Laz also offers rooms (singles €55-75, doubles €90-160, suites €120-160). in the vicinity, with your family for an active holiday or with a wide range of local and Slovene souvenirs and gifts PTJHA6UFLEBKDXCW hhhh your partner to enjoy the beauty of nature. - perhaps a miniature ‘Zlatorog’ (mythical gold horned buck) or a chunk of delicious Bohinj cheese. Q Open Kristal Ribčev Laz 4a, tel. +386 (0)4 577 82 00, fax Mon-Sat 08:00-18:00, Sun & holidays 09:00-15:00. +386 (0)4 577 82 50, [email protected], Arriving In July-Aug 08:00-20:00 and 08:00-18:00. In Nov-Dec www.hotel-kristal-slovenia.com. This charming family-run 09:00-17:00 and 09:00-15:00. hotel is located a short walk from the lake and is surrounded By Car by impressive mountains and lush alpine forests. Kristal’s Take the A2 motorway north in the direction of Kranj and TIC - Tourism Bohinj Triglavska 30, tel. +386 30 rooms are clean and comfortable whilst the friendly Jesenice. After passing Kranj, take the exit for Bled. Follow (0)4574 75 90, fax +386 (0)4574 75 91, info@ service helps create a homey and relaxed atmosphere. signs for Bled and pass through the town on the main road bohinj.si, www.bohinj.si/en. Q Open Mon-Fri The complimentary breakfast is a great way to start a and approximately halfway around the lake. You’ll then 07:00-15:00. From 1 Jul to 15 Sept & 20 Dec to 15 day of hiking and skiing around Bohinj and tired guests can see signs directing you to Bohinj. The drive from Ljubljana Feb open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00, Sat 08:00-17:00, Sun return to relax in the Finnish sauna, followed by a tasty meal should take around an hour and 15 minutes. 09:00-12:00. in the hotel’s restaurant and a warming drink beside the fireplace. Q 30 rooms (singles €43-70, doubles €76-120). TIC - Stara Fužina Srednja vas v Bohinju 79, THARUILGBKD hhhh By Train Stara Fužina, tel. +386 (0)4 572 33 26, info. Trains from Ljubljana to Bohinjska Bistrica, a village around [email protected]. Q Open 25 June to 15 Sept Villa Park Ukanc 129, tel. +386 (0)4572 33 00, fax Boasting long shores of sheltered pebbly beaches, Bohinj five kilometres from the lake, leave regularly. Most trains 09:00-17:00. +386 (0)4572 73 12, [email protected], www.vila-park. is one of our favourite places to swim in all of Slovenia, involve a change in Jesenice, and take about two hours. com. Set amongst idyllic Alpine countryside, Villa Park is photo by Bas Lammers

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Center Bohinj Ribčev Laz 50, tel. +386 (0)4 572 31 70, History fax +386 (0)4 574 69 50, [email protected], www. bohinj.si/center. This small family-run hotel, 100m from the About 14,000 years ago, a valley was created by a gla- lake, is the ideal base for experiencing all that Bohinj has to cier that cut its way through the land which came to be offer. It’s not just the convenient location that makes this a known as the lower and upper Bohinj valleys. Historical great hotel - comfortable modern rooms, friendly helpful staff findings prove the valley was populated as early as the and careful attention to detail (they even offer complimentary Bronze Age, and the 5000 inhabitants of today’s Bohinj cooked breakfast!) make staying here a pleasure. Guests have are mostly descendents of the native people. access (upon request) to a nearby indoor swimming pool and The area was first used for iron working and mining sauna. And the best thing is that all this quality comes at a great but the ancient method of extracting iron died out a price. The hotel’s restaurant is also very good offering hearty hundred years ago. In the villages of Stara Fužina (Old local dishes and excellent wood-fired pizzas. Q 15 rooms Forge) and Rudnica (mine) serve as the only reminders (doubles €31-49). TAULGBKW hhh of those times. Today, cowbells can still be heard ringing out across Gašperin Ribčev Laz 36a, tel. +386 (0)41 540 805, fax the mountains. The manner of life in Bohinj is in many +386 (0)4 57 23 661, [email protected], www. ways still tied to traditions that stretch back hundreds gasperin-bohinj.com. Located along the main road in the of years. The Alpine Farming Museum in Stara Fužina small settlement Ribčev Laz just a few hundred metres be- offers another glimpse of the past. The architectural fore the lake, this small family-run bed and breakfast offers a heritage of old Bohinj is still visible in many of the well- variety of spacious, completely renovated rooms with en suite preserved alpine cottages with balconies and shingle bathrooms, cable TV, a fully equipped kitchen with a fridge and roofs. The ethnographic features are most evident at even a microwave oven. A large open terrace with parasols the Oplen House Museum in the village of Studor, which and chairs provides you with the opportunity for relaxation also preserves the traditional village plan, with houses with refreshing drinks and the beauty of the alpine peaks in and hayricks huddled together. the distance. Q Doubles (w/o balcony) €50-72, doubles (w/ Bohinj was and still is oriented to the Catholic religion, balcony) €60-102, apartments €50-92. Extra bed €15-20. considering the 11 churches that are speckled around TLGBK hhh the area. The four main churches are: St Nicholas Church in Bohinjska Bistrica, St Paul’s Church in Stara Residence Triglav Stara Fužina 23, tel. +386 (0)4 572 Fužina, St Martin’s Church in Srednja Vas and St John 97 00, [email protected], www.apartmaji-triglav. Herds of wild chamois are not an uncommon sight in the mountains around Bohinj, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture the Baptist’s Church in Ribčev Laz. Slovenia’s leading si. Overlooking a flat plain beside Lake Bohinj, the panorama Slovenia poet, France Prešeren, once wrote an epic poem Krst opens out on one side of this residence and restaurant, Mount pri Savici (the Christening at the Savica), which although Triglav towers above the other. Winter attracts skiers looking Penzion Bohinj Stara Fužina 12, tel. +386 (0)4 572 Penzion Rožič Ribčev Laz 42, tel. +386 (0)4 572 33 largely fictional, depicts the time of violent baptism and for a convenient base for Vogel and Kobla, summer those who 34 81/+386 (0)51 349 035, penzion-bohinj@stip. 93, [email protected], www.pensionrozic-bohinj.com. This battles between the Christians and pagans which took want an idyllic base from which to launch themselves into the nities you may need during your stay: supermarkets, post centrally located pension and restaurant is good enough for place around Bohinj and Bled. surrounding wilderness. In addition to 27 basic-looking but bright office, internet cafes, bars and only 100 metres from the a respectable stay in Bohinj. The establishment is bang in and very clean apartments, there’s a little extra luxury (sauna) lake itself. The restaurant provides a decent menu of the middle of all amenities you may need during your stay: and lots of outdoor activities on offer. Situated in the sleepy set- typically seasonal dishes: trout and game accompanied supermarkets, post office, internet cafes, bars and only tlement of Stara Fužina. Q 27 rooms (doubles €68-82, triples by a glass of local wine. The owners also provide a par- 100 metres from the lake itself. The restaurant provides a from €111, apartments from €66). PALBKDW ticular activity in which some daredevils might take an decent menu of typically seasonal dishes: trout and game interest: paragliding! Q 30 beds (€30-33 per person). accompanied by a glass of local wine. The owners also Tripič I-7, Triglavska 13, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. +386 TJARULGBK hhh provide a particular activity in which some daredevils might (0)4 828 01 20, [email protected], www.hotel-bohinj. take an interest: paragliding! Q 30 beds (€30-33 per person). si. Providing warm and welcoming accommodation in Bohinj Penzion Lipa Stara Fužina 19, tel. +386 (0)4 193 56 TJARULGBK hhh for nearly four decades, the family-run Tripič hotel can be 27, [email protected]. This lovely guest house found right in centre of Bohinjska Bistrica and offers a total of is only a couple of years old, but is already exceedingly Stare Ukanc 128, tel. +386 (0)4 055 86 69, info@ 17 spacious rooms, including many suites and family rooms. popular with visitors from Slovenia as well as abroad. Run bohinj-hotel.com, www.bohinj-hotel.com. Depsite a name The friendly service and top-notch facilities were recognised by a friendly local family who live next door, there’s a large that means Old Pension, this place exhibits fresh, renovated with the Golden Award from the town in 2010, but even more backyard that extends right to the edge of Triglav National rooms with WiFi internet access and other modern amenities. meaningful are the countless glowing comments left in their Park and the azure waters of Lake Bohinj are only a few A lovely buffet breakfast comes included in the price. Ask at guestbook by visitors from around the world - many of whom minutes’ walk down the road. The rooms are rustically reception about the hiking, fishing and skiing packages that become familiar faces on return trips. Additional offers include furnished, neatly kept and all but one have balconies. The they offer for a reasonable extra fee. The restaurant offers a a 10% discount at Bohinj Aquapark just across the street and two suites have separate sleeping quarters upstairs. Try healthy international menu which is also vegetarian friendly. A half-board at the excellent restaurant for only €4. Q 17 rooms to reserve one of the rooms facing west, as the views of fabulous starting point for exploring a landscape that seems (singles €47-62, doubles €64-96). THGKW hhhh the lake and mountains beyond are quite breathtaking. time has long forgotten. Q 10 rooms (€33-45 per person). Q 8 rooms, 2 suites. TLBW TULBK hh

Guesthouses Penzion Resje Nemški Rovt 21a, Bohinjska Bistrica, Vila Bistrica Mencingerjeva 24, Bohinjska Bistrica, Erlah Ukanc 67, tel. +386 (0)4572 33 09/+386 (0)41 tel. (+386)4 57 21 07 9, [email protected], www. tel. +386 (0)8 383 08 52/+386 (0)70 71 37 92, info@ 56 49 02, [email protected], www.erlah.com. Staying at penzion-resje.si. On the edge of Triglav National Park, in penzion-vilabistrica.si, www.penzion-vilabistrica.si. this family run guesthouse located in Ukanc on the western the tiny village of Nemški Vas, stands pension ‘Yeah.’ We Located in Bohinjska Bistrica by the main road to Lake Bohinj side of Bohinj Lake is the definition of a getaway - the village like the simplicity of its name, but the 14 attentively deco- (5km away), this small family-run guesthouse may not have is really just a handful of houses with no shops. The rooms rated rooms help aswell. Every room has a shower, toilet, lakeside views, but it is conveniently walking distance to the are comfy and the service friendly while the secluded location TV, internet, telephone and most have a balcony. Delicious centre of the village and the Kobla ski slopes are less than ensures absolute tranquillity. Despite the lack of shops there homemade food is served in their restaurant. Sports clubs 1km away, whilst the rest of Bohinj’s sights are only a short is plenty close by with the Lake and Vogel ski centre within (and individuals) are catered for in the fitness room, whilst drive. Vila Bistrica’s combination of friendly service, comfort- walking distance and given the quality of the guesthouse’s the kids are kept active by a small playground on the outdoor able rooms with impressive mountain views (especially from restaurant - the local trout is a must - you might not even need terrace. Pastures and forests are very close by, so why not rooms with balconies) and a decent breakfast thrown in, The nearly 80m Slavica Waterfall is well-worth the short to drive anywhere. Q 6 rooms, 1 apartment (rooms €35-45 go exploring or picking mushrooms and fruits. “Yes” indeed! make it a good value for visitors. Q 14 rooms (singles €45- hike, photo by Tanja Sodja per person, apartment €60-100). Q 13 rooms (€25-30 per person). TFLNBK 65, doubles €70-110). PJHLKW

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village of Srednja Vas, if you take the road between Jereka Štrud’’l Triglavska 23, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. +386 Hostels Pokljuka Plateau and Stara Fužina you can’t miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (0)31 518 969, [email protected]. This charming alpine Hostel pod Voglom Ribčev Laz 60, tel. +386 (0)4 572 Closed Mon. TAILB bar and restaurant is located in the centre of town, next 34 61, [email protected], www.hostel-podvoglom. Hotel Center Srednja Vas 165a, tel. +386 (0)4 532 to the tourist information centre - pick up some maps and com. If you’ve come for an action-packed holiday, then this 0000, fax +386 (0)4 532 0001, info@center-pokljuka. Gostilna Tripič Triglavska 13, tel. +386 (0)4 828 01 20, then plan your Bohinj adventure over coffee and a fabulous is the place for you. Summers and winters are swarming with si, www.center-pokljuka.si. This alpine oasis is sur- fax +386 (0)4 828 01 24, [email protected], www.hotel- apple strudel next-door. Popular with locals and visitors alike, adventure travelers, sports people and backpackers that rounded by forests at the foot of Triglav National Park, a bohinj.si. A top dining destination for both locals and visitors, Štrud’l is known for their delicious home style cuisine and make use of its prime location along the southern shore of 30-minute drive from the village of Srednja Vas along windy the Tripič inn is conveniently located in the centre of Bohinjska local specialties - their Bohinj cottage cheese dishes are a the lake and numerous activities organised by the hostel’s mountain roads (and is not to be confused with the Pokljuka Bistrica, and during the warmer months the large summer ter- highlight and make sure to look out for the excellent daily and very own Pac sports centre. Rooms are of the dormitory style, Šport Hotel in Goreljek, which you pass on the way). The race is sure to be buzzing with happy diners. The menu features seasonal specials. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. most with en suite shower and toilettes, but some having to hotel is part of the larger Triglav Pokljuka Sport Centre, a wide selection of hearty traditional Bohinj cuisine, such as veal share a clean common bathroom. Q 47 rooms (€16-26 per which hosts an IBU World Cup biathlon event in March each stew with buckwheat and grilled homemade sausages with black person). THAULGB year, and at other times draws a mix of sports enthusiasts, pudding and turnips, while house specialties include the Tripič Fish groups on business retreats and those who just want to get platter, turkey steak in cream sauce with fruit and of course fresh Zlatovčica Ribčev Laz 51, tel. +386 (0)4 572 91 away from hectic urban life and be surrounded by nature. Bohinj trout - all of which are served in sizeable portions. Stop by 00, fax +386 (0)4 572 90 39, [email protected]. Camping The facilities include an essential bar, two well-equipped from 12:00 to 16:00 for the good value daily set menus. QOpen Named after the gold-bellied fish from Bohinj Lake, we would Camp Danica Triglavska 60, tel. +386 (0)4 572 17 02, lecture halls, a fitness and sauna centre, and a fine à la 08:00 - 23:00. PTJAULEGBKX be cautioned into thinking of ordering exactly what it says on fax +386 (0)4 572 33 30, [email protected], www. carte restaurant. Q 66 rooms (singles €58-68, doubles the tin, or the roof for that matter! Being part of the grand camp-danica.si. The area around the mighty Triglav range €76-96, suites €98-136). Gostišče Danica Triglavska 60, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. Hotel Jezero and with a covered terrace over-looking the lake, is a fantastic spot for camp lovers, being directly at the foot +386 (0)4 572 10 55, [email protected], www.camp- this place provides you with comfort, beauty and relaxation of nature and adventure. The camp is found just outside Šport Hotel Goreljek 103, Zgornje Gorje, tel. +386 danica.si. Located at the entrance to the camping grounds after an adventure in the countryside or mountains. The à la Bohinjska Bistrica and can accommodate over 700 guests (0)4 533 50 17, [email protected], www.sportho- one might dismiss this place as a tourist trap but looks can carte menu offers a wide range of seasonal and fish dishes, in tents, campers and bungalows where you can find a range tel.si. Through deep green forest, the road from Bled be deceiving and behind Danica’s modest appearance is a accompanied by an extensive wine list.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. of fascinating on-site activities such as tennis, badminton, eventually leads to the newly renovated Šport Hotel, the fine restaurant. As well as an outstanding à la carte menu, PJALGBKX volleyball, and table-tennis, and there’s also a large sports biggest in Pokljuka, and the product of a €1.3 million EU the restaurant offers excellent daily specials and an wide hall and aqua park the immediate vicinity. The camp’s excel- grant. While offering a relaxing stay in the middle of idyllic range of Slovene wines. To cap it off the service is friendly lent set of amenities include a WiFi internet access point, nature, the facilities and altitude (1250m) offer athletes and the prices are very reasonable - it makes for a very nice Italian bars and restaurants, a supermarket, bakery, health centre, and active types great opportunities. In the immediate camp dinner indeed. Q Open Wed-Sun 11:00-22:00. During Don Andro U-7, Ukanc 20, tel. +386 (0)5 995 57 pharmacy, laundry service, bank and post office. Q €6-12 vicinity of the hotel you will find cross-country trails and summer 08:00-23:00 daily. 87/+386 (0)41 600 056, [email protected], www. per person. TA6ULEKXCW its own family/beginner ski slope. Activities organised by donandro.si. A small part of Italy in the heart of the Julian the hotel include Nordic walking, trekking, biking, hiking Rožič Ribčev Laz 42, tel. +386 (0)4 572 33 93, rozic@ Alps! It’s a pleasure to eat in this fine but simple restaurant Camp Zlatorog Ukanc 65, tel. +386 (0)4 20 20 (some of which are relatively easy) and snowshoeing. siol.net, www.pensionrozic-bohinj.com. Nearly everything where they prepare large and satisfying pizzas of all varieties. 800/+386 (0)51 441 963, [email protected], Well worth a visit for the surroundings alone, a natural about this restaurant, from its rustic interior decorated with Be aware that a small pizza is actually sufficient enough for www.camp-bohinj.si. For those who enjoy being directly alpine wonderland: Triglav National Park. Q From €38 traditional hanging lamps to the delicious cuisine, is fantastic. two to share, while a large is just ridiculous. The service is in contact with nature, why not park your tent or camper per person. TAFLKDW You will find the restaurant on the top floor of the Pension Rozič top-notch with staff speaking excellent English. Other dishes right up along the banks of Lake Bohinj, just outside the residence which is not just for the enjoyment of the hotel’s worth trying are the pastas, salads and delicious deserts. small village of Ukanc. The camp is an excellent starting guests. Order the deer steak with mushrooms and polenta, or It’s a hit with both the locals and tourists who are staying in point for day trips such as hiking up to the Savica waterfall, one of the many savoury game and trout dishes, all of which are the village of Ukanc for good reason. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Mostnica gorge or the Voje valley. On the site there’s hot Slovenian guaranteed to make your mouth water. PALGB AVBXS water, a children’s playground and a restaurant, as well as Gostilna Mihovc Stara Fužina 118, tel. +386 (0)5 922 various bikes, canoes, boats and kayaks for rent. A tourist 67 86/+386 (0)51 899 111, [email protected], boat also leaves frequently across the lake to Ribčev Laz, www.gostilna-mihovc.si. This authentic family-run restau- in case you don’t fancy the 4km walk. Q (€5-9 per person). rant has been serving up delicious local fare for more than a TA6LBKX hh century. Located in the centre of Stara Fužina, the restaurant is housed in a traditional old Gorenjska-style house, the in- terior has the same rustic feeling - during winter grab a table Private Accommodation besides the central hearth whilst in summer the courtyard There are more than 2000 beds available in private rooms is the place to be. The menu features a wide range of tasty and apartments scattered across Bohinj’s many towns, local specialties and the lunch menus are great value. QOpen villages and settlements. These can often offer great 09:00 - 23:00. TILB value accommodation, especially for longer stays, as well as an authentic experience of bunking down in more Gostilna Pri Hrvatu Srednja Vas 76, tel. +386 (0)4 traditional surroundings. Rooms can be booked directly 572 36 70/+386 (0)31 234 300. Located in the pretty with the owners, although it’s often easier (not least little village of Srednja Vas, this long-running eatery has been because of language barriers) to make arrangements preparing traditional Slovenian dishes for the past 20 years. or get recommendations through a local tourist office or There is always something new on the menu, so it’s best agency, such as the Bohinj Tourist Association (Ribčev to ask the waiters what the current specials are. From what Laz), Tourism Bohinj (Bohinjska Bistrica) or the LD Tourist we’ve seen, this seems to be the place where the older folks Agency (Bohinjska Bistrica). More info about private and from the village like to socialise over a meal or a pint. QOpen other accommodation can be found on the municipality’s 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. TULGB official website at www.bohinj.si. Gostilna Rupa Srednja Vas 87, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 01, www.apartmajikatrnjek.com/rupa. Known amongst Where to eat the locals as one of the best places to eat between Bled Most visitors to Bohinj end up eating the majority of their and Lake Bohinj, we try to drop by the family-run Rupa every meals at their hotel or guesthouse (which is usually not time we’re in the area. The award-winning kitchen turns out a bad option), but for those who wish to venture out in some truly tasty dishes - our favourites include the deer search of sustenance there are a handful of eateries in the medallions, grilled asparagus with gorgonzola and the various villages around the lake, with the most options in Ribčev schnitzels - and the splendid views across the valley seem Laz at the lake’s southwest corner. to make everything taste even better. Located in the tiny A tranquil canoe trip for two in the early morning sun, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia

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Paviljon Bar Ribčev Laz, tel. +386 (0)4 143 55 55, al- also countless opportunities for hiking and mountain biking [email protected]. It overlooks the lake, it’s close to the centre, including at a newly opened bike park up on Vogel, making it it’s crowded almost every evening - this is definitely the best a great year round destination. Q Cable car operates daily location to come out for a drink if you happen to be residing in 08:00-18:00 (every half an hour), in summer 07:00-19:00. Bohinj. The evenings really get going here and the speakers Return tickets €13.50 adults, €9 children (family discounts manage to pump out a good selection of music. The setting of available). the torch-lit terrace truly fulfils a relaxed ambience on a fresh summer’s night. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. LEGB Annual Events International Alpine Flower Festival Various Venues, What to see www.bohinj.si. The breathtaking beauty of Bohinj’s alpine scenery is well-known, with images of rocky peaks, rural Essential farms, abundant wildlife and of course the majestic lake itself Lake Bohinj (Bohinjsko Jezero) Lake Bohinj, the gracing the covers of various books, brochures and family jewel at the centre of this scattering of villages in eastern photo albums. However, the region also boasts an incredible Gorenjska, is absolutely breathtaking. Come early in the botanical richness, which has fascinated visitors long before morning out of season, just before the sun has risen over the railway brought a spike in tourist arrivals more than a cen- the adjacent peaks to experience its awe. Mist shrouds the tury ago. In fact, as far back as the mid-18th century foreign- banks of this still and flat alpine wonder. The pure quiet of this ers were penning odes to Bohinj’s diverse floral beauty, such location really brings nature to life once more. Only birdsong as the scientist, traveller and explorer Balthazar Hacquet, emanates from the surrounding Eden, the splash of one of who was so in love with the region that he not only wrote a Bohinj’s ‘yellow-bellied’ fish, or the crash of Savica waterfall three-volume tome about the flora here, but also yearned to in the middle distance. Perhaps the only other detectable return and spend the rest of his life as a shepherd. sound is the flap of the wings of large birds in flight over this In celebration of Bohinj’s unique floral environment, there is a crystal clear lake. By Bohinj you can be at one with yourself, two-week long International Flower Festival at the end of May and peace is unavoidable. and beginning of June each year, with a veritable bouquet of events and activities taking place across the entire region, Mostnica Gorge (Korita Mostnice) Stara Fužina. The including exhibitions, guided excursions, workshops, lectures, numerous signs, typically carved in log planks, direct you to concerts, open-air markets and much more. this hidden gem. A tiny bridge tucked away in the hills behind Stara Fužina and the lake connects two sides of a deeply Bohinj Hiking Festival Tel. +386 (0)4 574 75 spectacular gorge. Take in a splendid view of Triglav while 90/+386 (0)31 557 124, [email protected], www.bohinj.si. the turquoise torrent swirls below. Bohinj has been a popular destination for hikers for centuries, Bohinj offers perfect vistas of the rocky snow-covered peaks of the Slovenian Alps, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of so it’s no surprise that it is home to one of Slovenia’s largest Picture Slovenia Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica) Bohinjsko jezero, hiking events - the so-called Days of Hiking. Taking place in tel. +386 (0)4 574 60 10, [email protected], www. September and October each year, the event aims to promote Pizzerija Ema Srednja Vas 73, tel. +386 (0)4 57 24 Kava Bar Rondo Trg Svobode 1, tel. +386 (0)4 577 82 bohinj-info.com. Your time spent in Bohinj would not be the area’s rich hiking tradition and potential as a world class 126/+386 (0)41 48 65 50, [email protected], 00, fax +386 (0)4 577 82 50. Kava Bar Rondo is a favourite complete without a day trip to one of Slovenia’s greatest hiking destination, and is comprised of three parts: Recrea- www.pizzerija-ema.si. A popular pizzeria is not something place amongst shoppers coming in and out of the Mercator waterfalls. To reach the waterfall it’s a roughly one hour tion, which includes guided tours along various paths, trails difficult to come by in Slovenia, even in the alpine region, an Shopping Centre, as it is the closest place to grab a drink. walk up a thickly forested slope. The waterfall itself drops a and themed trips; Competition, with several sports events Ema is no exception. We could almost say that the interior When the weather is good a couple of tables outside serve towering 78m into a large water sink, which is located at an held in cooperation with Slovene hiking societies; and Social is picturesque, with red-brick arches hinting at its theme - as a much needed chill out retreat. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, altitude of 500m. An inspirational sight, it has often been activities, including concerts, exhibitions, lectures and hiking- wood-fired, oven-baked (and always huge) pizza. Other nice Sun 07:00 - 15:00. AULGB written about by well-known Slovenian poets and writers. related workshops. touches include a wall covered in miniature logs and antique A small entrance fee is required at the entrance to the site. wooden wheel fixtures. Also very family-friendly, Ema has a Kava Bar Urška Triglavska 16, tel. +386 (0)4 577 Q Admission €1.10 - 2.50. small playground on the rear terrace and colouring pencils 01 41. From the same owner of Bar Kramar, this is more and paper for the kids. The fine mountain views from its of a coffee bar which is popular both during the day and location in the village of Srednja Vas come at no extra cost. evenings. It also sells a range of alcoholic beverages and Around Bohinj TAUILBS its atmosphere makes it quite appropriate for an evening Pokljuka Untouched, unspoiled and undiscovered: Pokljuka, retreat with friends or family. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri the glacier formed, limestone plateau in the Julian Alps is all of 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. these things. Being shrouded in spruce forest and sitting at Nightlife AULGB 1000-1400m, it is mysterious when the weather is cloudy, but Bohinj isn’t exactly party central by any stretch of the on sunny days it’s crystal clear and pristine in every way. imagination, but there are a couple popular watering holes Kobla Trg Svobode 2a, tel. +386 (0)4 572 15 95. Launched as an alpine resort destination several years ago, where visitors can relax with a cold beer after a long day Although the joint shuts down quite early during the with a few brand new or renovated hotels opened since, spent out and about communing with nature. During the evenings, it’s a good enough place to hang-out during Pokljuka’s main attractions are the huge cross-country skiing/ warmer months there are also a couple of good open air the day with a beer or coffee and a newspaper at hand. running track and world cup hosting biathlon center. There places that pack in quite a crowd with live DJs and other Tasty nibbles are available from its very own sweet shop are moderate difficulty hiking trails nearby, offering fantastic events. in case your stomach begins to grumble. QOpen 06:00 - views, and rare alpine plant species to be found in and around 21:00. TULGB the numerous bogs. Great for those wanting a peaceful and/ or active mountain escape, at high altitude. Bars Kramar Stara Fužina 3, tel. +386 (0)4 572 36 97. Allo Allo Triglavska Cesta, tel. +386 (0)41 435 555. Along the road to Stara Fužina, there is a little spot for Vogel View Point Ukanc 6, tel. +386 (0)4 5729 712, Just next to the Camping Danica, this place should be the a quiet drink in the evenings if you are looking for some [email protected], www.vogel.si. The Vogel Ski Centre is one first on your list for going out in Bohinj. During the summer, the light evening entertainment. They serve an array of of our favourite places to hit the slopes mainly because of the pub boasts an eventful programme of concerts, DJs, music beers and wines, along with a bite to eat if you manage incredible panoramic views of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj, and themed nights. On some occasions you might think the to pop in while the kitchen’s still open. Overall, a pleasant but you don’t need to wait for the snow to check out the views. whole camp shoves itself into this humble abode. Definitely ambience and friendly staff. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, In fact, without needing to worry about snowboarders cutting a venue worth checking out if you’re staying close by. QOpen Sat 10:00 - 03:00. From Sept to May open only at the you off and with the mountainsides a bloom with wild flowers There’s no better time to visit Bohinj than during one of the 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. LGB weekends. TLGB the views are possibly even more spectacular. There are many traditional annual events, photo by Tanja Sodja

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Mount Triglav Skiing Cycling trips Kobla Ski Center Cesta na Ravne 7, tel. +386 (0)45 Mount Triglav Mount Triglav is the highest 74 71 00, [email protected], www.bohinj.si/kobla. A Cycling is just one of the many active offerings of Bohinj mountain in Slovenia, rising to 2864m in the relatively compact resort, with 3 double chair-lifts and about and Triglav National Park. Be it road riding through centre of a national park of the same name. 5 ski runs (longest = 6km), Kobla is aimed primarily at families quaint alpine villages, or exploration of the wilderness The mountain is the symbol of Slovenia (it ap- and ameteur/intermediate skiers. Unsuprisingly then, their off the beaten track, there is a large area of outstand- pears on the coat of arms), and the country’s emblem is a cartoon bear rather haphazardy skiing down ing beauty to be discovered. We have chosen some of flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the one of their slopes. the most popular routes for cyclists and tourists, but of day Slovenia declared independence from On a more practical level, Kobla is the only Slovenian ski course there are many more to be seen at the Tourist Yugoslavia. The name, Triglav, means three- center accessible by train. Presumably this means it’s still Information Centres in Bohinjska Bistrica and Ribčev headed, as it looks to have three peaks when open when the snow is too deep to drive. You can also still go Laz (near the lake). seen from the Bohinj valley. in mild conditions, courtesy of their snow-maker (unusual for The first recorded ascent of Triglav was the area). Cable-cars leave from Bohinjska Bistrica. Bled - Ravne v Bohinju made on 26 August 1778, by Luka Korošec, Length: 25km/1hour 20minutes Difficulty: medium Matija Kos, Štefan Rožič and Lovrenc Willo- Vogel Ski Center Ukanc 6, tel. +386 (0)45 72 97 12, Surface: Asphalt mitzer, on the initiative of baron Sigismund [email protected], www.vogel.si. Vogel has be- The ultimate reward of this trip is the beautiful panoramic Zois. Its height was first measured in 1808 come the most famous skiing centre in the area, with 8 cable view of Bohinjska Bistrica and the Triglav mountain range. by Valentin Stanič. railways allowing skiers and hikers the freedom of coming up The route begins in Bled and winds its way through the At the top of the mountain stands a tiny metal and down the mountain as they please. A wide choice of guest valley to Bohinj, parallel with the railway tracks. You will structure, the Aljaž Tower. A storm shelter houses have sprung up like mushrooms on and around the ride through the town of Bohinjska Bistrica, past Kobla for climbers, it is named after Jakob Aljaž, mountain’s foot, but be sure to book well in advance if you ski centre and uphill (3km) to Ravne v Bohinju, for that a priest who bought the land at the Triglav plan to stop by for the skiing season. On the mountain’s peak wonderful view. peak for a single Austro-Hungarian florin from you will find a range of alpine restaurants, cafes and even a the then municipality of Dovje in 1895. A statue of the first four climbers to reach the peak of Mt Triglav is found place to prepare your own picnic which allows you to take a Bohinj Cycling Route Triglav today attracts skiers in winter (to in Ribičev Laz moment and soak up the incredible panorama. If you plan to Route: Bohinjska Bistrica - Bohinj Lake - Stara Fužina nearby Vogel) and climbers in summer. The a two-day ascent to the top, and requires an overnight set of walking into the wilderness, it is advised to prepare - Srednja Vas climb to the summit is not all that hard, but it is long. It’s stay in a mountain cabin. yourselves beforehand with equipment, maps and trail routes Length: 9km Difficulty: Easy Surface: Asphalt as not all walking tracks are visibly marked. One of the most popular, shortest and easiest cycling routes in Bohinj is along the paved pathway that follows Bohinj Fishing Festival Hotel Tripič, Triglavska 13, the Sava river from Bohinjska Bistrica to its origin at Lake www.bohinj.si. More of a venue for fly fishing enthusiasts Sports & Activities Sport centres & agencies Bohinj, onwards to the village of Stara Fužina and then to socialise, share experiences and of course hone their Alpinsport Ribčev Laz 53, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 86, continues through the valley to Srednja Vas. The path crafts than a rigidly organised event per se, nevertheless Fishing [email protected], www.alpinsport.si. Be it summer or is also used by walkers, hikers, roller-skaters and local Bohinj’s annual fishing festival has become an increas- Whether you are a serious angler or just looking to winter time, this agency specialises in a variety of exciting sporting farmers (sometimes on tractors), but is prohibited to ingly popular event on the calendar, taking place each sit in a little boat all day drinking beer (yes, we learnt and leisure activities, tours into Bohinj’s magnificent countryside other motor vehicles. There are well-kept resting spots year at the end of September and beginning of October. to fish in Australia), Lake Bohinj and the surrounding and training in kayaking in the summer and skiing in the winter. and rubbish bins along the way, as well as a few good The programme generally consists of days spent fishing rivers are the perfect place to cast your line with the All activities are carried out in Bohinj’s pristine natural wonders, gostilnas if you manage to work up an appetite. on one of several rivers in or near Bohinj (namely the season running from 1 May to 14 November. Standing be it in caves, lakes, canyons, gorges or rushing wild rivers. The Sava Bohinjska, Soča, Idrijca and Savinja), with nights beside the lake you can see large schools of trout, the prices are reasonable, with all equipment you may need provided Gorenjski Trojček devoted to various fishing-related films, videos, lectures waters are also home to Charr, Chub and Burbot, but by the agency. Professional staff are fully trained and will make The route: Lesce - Bled - Pokljuka - Goreljek - Srednja and presentations, with a large festive cultural event (ie catching them is another story. To start with you’ll need your day a safe and memorable experience. Vas - Bohinj - Zgornja Sorica - Železniki party) on the final night. a licence, gear and skill - or is fishing all about luck? Length: 116km/5hours Difficulty: challenging Sur- Bohinj being somewhat of a Mecca for Slovene anglers, face: asphalt Kravji Bal Bohinj Tourist Association, Ribčev Laz the lake also hosts an annual international fishing festi- This cycling tour (translated as Gorenjska ‘triple’), 48, tel. +386 (0)4 574 60 10, fax +386 (0)4 572 33 val at the end of September and beginning of October for which most people should allow one whole day, 30, [email protected], kravjibal.bohinj-info.com. For details about fishing in Bohinj including regulations, will take you first of all along a well appointed bike The summer season in Slovenia’s alpine region officially licence dealers, gear rental shops and much more lane from Lesce to Bled, then up into the highlands ends in mid-September with one of the country’s most check www.bohinj.si or contact one of the local tourist of Pokljuka, down the steep lanes to lake Bohinj and unique, if lesser known, festivals: the annual Kravji Bal offices. its surrounding villages, down a further descent to or Traditional Cow Ball. Held in Bohinj since 1954, the Sorica and finally up again to Železniki and the end of event celebrates the return of local shepherds and their the route, in Dražgoše. Highlights of the route include cattle to the valley after a summer of grazing high up in Hiking several pristine river crossings and aesthetically the pastures of the Julian Alps. Bohinj represents a compelling base camp and starting pleasing pit-stops in lovely little villages. The festivities kick off on Friday evening with tours of point for hiking and mountaineering. Many sights are Bohinj’s local dairies and regional museum, followed by a accessible to those of all abilities, including fami- Lake Bohinj - Savica Waterfall night of folklore performances, village skits and traditional lies - the lake itself is a natural paradise of serenity The route: Ribčev Laz - Savica - Ribčev Laz music in the village of Stara Fužine in Triglav National Park. and stillness, then there’s Savica waterfall, Mostnica Length: 16km/1 hour 10 minutes Difficulty: easy Of course plenty of cheese and butter will be on hand for canyon and an entire realm of forests and pastures. A Surface: asphalt/gravel tasting. On Sunday the main event takes place in the vil- panoramic view of the whole Bohinj valley can be had A leisurely lakeside ride takes you from Ribčev Laz on the lage of Ukanc when the shepherds and cows make their from Rudnica hill and there are plenty of higher peaks eastern shore of Bohinj, to Ukanc on the western bank. triumphant return, much to the delight of the thousands in the surrounding mountain range to keep altitude From there you’ll ride a few more kilometres on asphalt of onlookers. The all-day party begins in the morning with junkies fulfilled. (straight ahead) to a car park where there are two res- folk music, brass bands, an accordion orchestra, folklore For more information and maps, visit the Tourist taurants. Then you’ll leave the bikes and hike a mountain performances and all manner of other costumed revellers Information Centre in Bohinjska Bistrica, or call +386 path to the waterfall itself (20 minutes). The stillness and competing for the eyes and ears of the crowd. 45 74 75 90. tranquility of the surroundings are interrupted only by the crashing of the water at Savica; the natural wonder on this route will undoubtedly enchant (especially minus bohinj.inyourpocket.com Cycling routes for all difficulty levels criss-cross Bohinj’s car-noise once you head into the wilderness). terrain, photo by Mitja Sodja

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Propilot Tel. +386 (0)41 739 512/+386 (0)41 689 Bohinj Cheese 014, [email protected], www.loop-acrocup.com. Bohinj Tourist Packages - Summer Started several years ago by small group of paragliding The Bohinj region has a long and rich history in the dairy enthusiasts, the company has since grown into a full- Tel. +386 (0)4 57 47 590/+386 (0)31 557 124, industry stretching back to the 13th century. The ring of fledged aero-tourism outfit, organising trips and activities [email protected], www.bohinj.si. cow bells across the pastures can still be heard today as on virtually anything that is capable of flight. In the Bled local alpine herdsmen continue this tradition, producing and Bohinj area the main services offered are paragliding MEGA Bohinj Package . award winning dairy product with Bohinj cheeses being and panoramic flights over the pristine lakes and incom- Excursion boat ride on Lake Bohinj . some of the best in the country. Ask at local restaurants parable Triglav National Park. Other possibilities included Return ride by cable car to Mt Vogel . about the delicious fresh cottage cheese ‘skuta’ as aerobatic plane flights, sky diving, and for those short on “Hungry Chamois” or “Hungry Dormouse” lunch on well as the EU recognised local specialty ‘Mohant’ - an time but not money, air taxi flights to destinations as far Mt Vogel . interesting semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with a strong as Dubrovnik in Croatia. Entrance fee for Savica Waterfall sharp flavour. Local dairies also produce an excellent . Entrance fee for Mostnica Gorge . Emmentaler style cheese known locally simply as Sport4fun Ribčev Laz 78, tel. +386 (0)41 97 58 Visit to the Church of St John the Baptist ‘Bohinjski Sir’. Bohinj cheeses can be found in shops 78, [email protected], www.sport4fun.si. throughout Slovenia but if you’re in the area it’s worth Pop into this agency for a choice of fun and exciting STANDARD Bohinj Package . dropping by the dairy for the freshest products. Bohinj’s activities which can be enjoyed in the best places in Excursion boat ride on Lake Bohinj . dairy culture is celebrated annually at the traditional Cow Bohinj and its surroundings. You will at all times be in Return ride by cable car to Mt Vogel . Bells festival (15 September) where herdsmen parade the safe hands of experienced and professional staff “Hungry Chamois” or “Hungry Dormouse” lunch on their dairy queens through town - the festival is a cultural whichever activity you may opt for be it rafting, canyon- Mt Vogel . experience not to be missed. ing, biking, caving or mountaineering. Or if you prefer to Visit to the Church of St John the Baptist make an adventure all on your own, bikes and kayaks are Bohinjska Sirarna Srednja Vas 114, tel. +386 available for rent. MINI Bohinj Package (0)4 574 61 00/+386 (0)31 678 335. QOpen 07:00 . Excursion boat ride on Lake Bohinj . - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Studor, tel. +386 (0)41 79 02 97, info@ Just some of the many dairy products produced in Bohinj Return ride by cable car to Mt Vogel Ranč Mrcina . ranc-mrcina.com, www.ranc-mrcina.com. 1 x drink on Mt Vogel . Visit to the Church of St John the Baptist Pac Sports Ribčev Laz 50, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 61, Wellness Shopping [email protected], www.pac-sports.com. The Pac Triglavska 17, tel. +386 (0)8 200 40 AQUA Bohinj Package AquaPark Bohinj . Sports outdoor centre and agency is situated at Hostel Pod 80, www.vodni-park-bohinj.si. Spend a fun-packed, wet Food & Drink Excursion boat ride on Lake Bohinj . Voglom, and specialises in adventure and sport holiday pack- and wild day at the AquaPark which includes an extensive Trg svobode 1, tel. Entrance fee for the Savica Waterfall Mercator Bohinjska Bistrica . ages including such activities as paragliding, rafting, canyoning, array of swimming pools, toboggan slides, saunas, fitness +386 (0)4572 74 43. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 Entrance fee for the Mostnica Gorge . trekking and free climbing to name but a few. Their adrenaline programmes, massages and cosmetic services. An alterna- - 12:00. Visit to the Church of St John the Baptist park is an ideal choice for thrill-seeking holiday-makers who tive choice in case of bad weather or to let the kids run wild would like to combine activities and nature in their holiday pack- and free. Amenities include a restaurant, snack bar and a Q Package prices start from only €9, with discounts age. You can pop in to their information points in town, situated cybercafé. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TAUFLBKD� offered for groups. in front of the Pension Rožič and at Camp Zlatorog. CWKDCW Directory

Banks Mercator Ribčev Laz Ribčev Laz 49, tel. +386 Gorenjska Banka Trg Svobode 2B, tel. +386 (0)4 (0)4572 95 32. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. 208 46 83, www.gbkr.si. QOpen 08:00 - 11:30 & Closed Sun. 14:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gifts & Souvenirs Petrol Ethno Gallery Prečna 1a, tel. +386 (0)31 706 962, Petrol Savska 22, tel. +386 (0)4 574 70 10, www. [email protected]. Located near Mercator between petrol.si. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 21:00. the post office and the municipal building, this small arts and crafts shop manages to fit the entire country and its customs into a few square metres of space. All of the items are hand- Pharmacies made in Slovenia and the diverse selection includes witches Lekarna Bohinjska Bistrica Triglavska 15, tel. from Slivnica, painted beehive panels, skilfully made wooden, +386 (0)4572 77 40. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat ceramic and glass items, Idrija lace, felt wool slippers, forged 08:00 - 13:00. iron products, fine Gorjuše pipes and much more. The perfect place to stop if you’d like to take a piece of Slovenia home with Police Stations you! Q Open Mon-Sat 09:00-20:00 and Sun 09:00-13:00. Bohinjska Bistrica Police Station Triglavska 35, TIC - Bohinj Tourist Office Ribčev Laz 48, tel. +386 tel. +386 (0)4 572 14 18, www.policija.si. (0)4574 60 10, fax +386 (0)4572 33 30, info@bohinj- info.com, www.bohinj-info.com. As well as offering helpful advice to visitors the Bohinj Tourism Information Centre in Post Ribčev Laz also offers a wide range of local and Slovene Post Bohinjska Bistrica Trg svobode 2C, tel. +386 souvenirs and gifts - perhaps a miniature ‘Zlatorog’ (mythi- (0)4572 96 40. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - cal gold horned buck) or a chunk of delicious Bohinj cheese. 12:00. Closed Sun. Q Open Mon-Sat 08:00-18:00, Sun & holidays 09:00-15:00. Post Ribčev Laz Ribčev Laz 47. QOpen 08:00 - In July-Aug 08:00-20:00 and 08:00-18:00. In Nov-Dec 09:00- 10:30 & 14:30-17:00, Sat 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. 17:00 and 09:00-15:00. Post Srednja Vas Srednja Vas 79. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 15:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 11:00, Sat For those in search of a real thrill, paragliding can be arranged through many agencies in Bohinj, photo by Primož Suša 08:00 - 09:00. Closed Sun. bohinj.inyourpocket.com courtesy of Picture Slovenia

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cottagers in the Gorenjska region at that time. It underwent some drastic changes and besides being enlarged, became Krvavec Ski Resort a brick house with a rich façade and frescoes. Almost a century later the house was renovated again and got its Krvavec Grad 76, tel. +386 (0)4 25 25 911, info@ present appearance, with the year 1863 carved above the rtc-krvavec.si, www.rtc-krvavec.si. Krvavec is the portal. The owners opened a restaurant which flourished until nearest ski resort to Ljubljana (25km away) and at- WWII and was renowned for its excellent gastronomy. Hence tracts many visitors during winter. The skiing season the village restaurant theme of the ethnological collection. here usually lasts a minimum of 100 days and under QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. the right conditions up to 150 days per year. Excellent infrastructure to and from the ski slopes. With extensive runs for beginning and advanced skiers and even a 5km Around Cerklje route for walking and cross country skiing, you might call Beekeeping Franci Sp. Brnik 43, tel. +386 (0)31 663 it a winter wonderland. But besides frolicking in the snow, 001, [email protected]. Private museums and Krvavec is also an ideal destination in the summer for collections have their charm. Beekeeping Franci has been mountaineering, cycling and hiking. A vast number of beekeeping since 1982 and nowadays works with between trails lead through beautiful nature to spectacular views 70 and 80 bee families in three bee houses. In the private of the Ljubljana basin and it is always a good option to beekeeping farm museum you will be escorted through the escape the infamous summer heat and cool off on the history of farming these little insects. And Slovenia has a Alpine meadows. When on your way up or down don’t rich history of beekeeping. The first houses with beehives hesitate to make a pit stop at a mountain lodge for some are from the 17th century and to make it easier for the of the domestic culinary specialities like roast beef, a bees to find their way home beekeepers used to stain and vast scala of sausages, homemade bread, stews and paint the beehive panels. These handmade artistic beehive buckwheat, it tastes delicious all through the year. panels are a typical example Slovene cultural heritage. Franci has many historical items used by beekeepers on display. The museum shop offers you a vast choice of lo- of the Republic Slovenia and used as a guesthouse and cal honey, medicinal propolis, products made of beeswax conference site by the government. and honey brandy. First mentioned in literature in 1287, Strmol Castle is among the oldest in the area and in essence medieval, but the castle A panoramic view of Cerklje at the foot of the Slovenian Alps Češnjevek Fishing Ponds On the outskirts of Češnjevek was renovated in Renaissance and Baroque style resulting in village you will find an old brick factory complex which has been an interesting architectural mixture. The castle park has an shuttered since 1980. One happy byproduct of the factory’s aesthetically pleasing design dating from the 17th century. Favourably located on the passage from the Ljubljana Cerklje work is that it left the nearby landscape with a couple of holes Currently it consists of an artificial lake, non-native trees, Basin to the mountainous area of the Kamnik-Savinja Cerklje Town Centre The inviting town square of Cerklje where clay had been extracted from the ground, and which grass fields and a fountain, with Dvorjanski hill in the back- Alps, the municipality of Cerklje na Gorenjskem (as it is has all the highlights within walking distance. The buildings function now as fishing ponds. The nearby area has also been ground. Around the castle and the hill are some nice paths properly known) boasts natural diversity and a rich histori- are painted in lively pastel colours and the monument of declared protected Natura 2000 site. For fishermen this is for enjoyable strolling. Q Open only for guided tours at 11:00 cal and cultural heritage. The municipality itself consists famous composer Davorin Jenko takes a prominent place in an ideal place to enjoy their sport in all tranquility. However and 15:00 Mon-Sat, 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00 Sun & holidays, of 30 villages, of which the majority are spread out on the square. But the undeniable eye-catcher is the Church of do not forget to purchase a fishing permit. and by prior arrangement for larger groups. the fertile southern lowlands and some on the northern Saint Mary of the Assumption. The main altar of the church foothills and slopes of Krvavec mountain and the adjacent is one of the richest late baroque creations in Gorenjska, with Repnik WWII Collection Zalog 77b, tel. +386 (0)40 Velesovo Monastery In the serene village of Adergas lies hills. Cerklje is conveniently situated near the three major gold leaf dominating the interior. There are also two, a bit 837 802, [email protected], freeweb. the Velesovo monastery with its parish church. The original cities in this part of the country. By car Kranj is just 15 more macabre, characteristics of this church and its adjacent siol.net/repnikc. Ciril Repnik takes an interest in WWII Dominican convent was founded in 1238 and severely dam- minutes away, and Ljubljana and Kamnik 20 minutes. With graveyard. The first one is on the right side of the entrance, and specifically in the weapons and equipment of Slovenian aged during Ottoman raids in 1471. The east wing of the Slovenia’s international airport a stone’s throw away and a memorial plaque for the town’s fallen soldiers during WWI partisans. Through the years he’s gathered an extensive monastery got its form between 1732 and 1771, after that an abundant amount of hotels and guesthouses it’s an lined with their portrait photographs. The other is the town’s amount of weapons of all sorts, from an anti-aircraft gun to it was used as a military hospital and seat of the some minor ideal base for both tourists and business travellers. Not small mortuary in the graveyard behind the church, which was several machine-guns and more. All of this heavy equipment nobility. The adjacent parish church was rebuilt in the same to resort to cliches, but the area has everything one could designed by architect Joze Plečnik in the same style as the is complimented with uniforms, posters, bronze sculptures period in a late-baroque style and the interior is decorated want, hospitality, honest food, diverse nature, historical National Library in Ljubljana. and a lot of photos. Q Open Saturdays 15:00 - 19:00 and with seven artistic altar images by the well-known Viennese and cultural heritage that dates back thousands of years by appointment. painter Johann Schmidt. The main attraction, however, is the and last but not least plenty of recreational opportunities Hribar’’s Villa Trg Davorina Jenka 10. Opposite the oldest preserved Maria with child statue in Slovenia, which all year round. church is Hribar’s Villa, named for the famous mayor of Šmartno Archaeological Site In the vicinity of Šmartno, dates back to 1220, while under the church you can find eerie Ljubljana Ivan Hribar, who bought this old stone farmhouse prehistoric burial sites from the Late Bronze Age, a long route catacombs with burial places for Dominican nuns. in 1886 and hired engineer Vladimir Hraske, famous for his of Roman roads and Roman rural cemeteries were uncovered. work on the opera house in Ljubljana, to turn it into one of Among them is a bronze buckle in the shape of two horses Tourist Information the most impressive manors in the area. This secessionist dating back to the turn of the 7th century, found in the road villa with classical window frames and a richly decorated that used to be part of the network connecting the Roman Krvavška Tourist Information Centre Cerklje wooden façade definitely stands out when compared to the Empire. The oldest discovered objects in the road are two 1b, tel./fax +386 (0)4 28 15 822, info@tic-cerklje. relatively mundane architecture of the surrounding buildings. bronze coins made during the reign of Emperor Tiberius (14 si, www.tic-cerklje.si. Opened in 2010, Cerklje’s tour- Nowadays the villa is in use by Gorenjska Banka and not to 37 AD). The findings from these archaeological sites can ist information centre has a wealth of free materials opened to tourists. be admired in the archaeological-ethnological museum in about the town and surrounding area, and the helpful Petrovc House in Cerklje. staff are eager to advise visitors on the many things Pr’ Petrovc Hiša Krvavška 1b, tel. +386 (0)4 28 15 to see and do. There’s also a free internet point if you’d 822, [email protected], www.tic-cerklje.si. The Petrovc Strmol Castle Tel. +386 (0)51 324 294, grad.strmol@ like to do some of your own last minute research (or house functions as the cultural hub of the municipality, hous- gov.si, www.brdo.si/grad_strmol. Along the road con- just check your email). Their newly launched website is ing the public library, an art gallery, the local tourist information necting the villages of Češnjevek and Dvorje you will find the in both English and Slovene, and includes a full listing centre and a museum with an archaeological-ethnological fairytale-like castle Strmol and its park. Of the twelve medieval of accommodation and dining options, in addition to all collection of which most noteworthy are the finds from the castles in the municipality this is the only one which survived of the info about attractions and more. QOpen 08:00 - Šmartno archaeological site. Until the mid-18th century the ravages of time and is still in tip-top condition, and is also 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Petrovc’s house was a small wooden farmhouse, as wood one of the only castles in all of Slovenia that still includes its The famed Veselovo Monastery in the village of Adergas, was the basic building material used by small farmers and original furniture. Since 2004 it has been a registered object photo by Jošt Gantar, courtesy of Picture Slovenian

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Gorje is a group of cute villages and settlements (eleven in total) close to Bled, on the way to Pokljuka, the Mežakla plateau and the valley of Radovna. The name itself means something like ‘up in the high’. The oldest trace of man here is dated to the Stone Age, the economic pulse of the past set by agricultural activity, promoted by the river Radovna and rich Pokljuka forests. The ironworks and blacksmith tradition was also alive here from the 16th cen- tury. The river Radovna drove wooden wheels saws, mills, foundries, forges, and later power plants. The construction of the railway later gave Gorje a new economic boost. The administrative centre of the Municipality is Zgornje Some of Gorje’s four-legged inhabitants await a storm, Gorje. Early settlement of the area is confirmed by several photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia graves discovered from the 11th century. The parish church in the village is dedicated to Saint George. In Spodnje Gorje there are two monuments designed by Jože Sightseeing Plečnik: a monument to villagers that died in the Second Vintgar Gorge www.vintgar.si. One of the most spec- World War, and a private tombstone. It’s a good spot to tacular natural sights in Slovenia is hidden away just north of visit if you’d rather see a typical village than well-trodden Gorje and only 4km from Bled. The Vintgar Gorge, known lo- tourist attractions. cally as Soteska Vintgar or Blejski Vintgar, was formed during the last ice age when glacial movements forced the crystalline waters of the Radovna river to the northeast, where it was Arriving able to slowly cut its way through the limestone terrain, creat- By car From Bled on the main road (5km), on the A2 ing sheer canyon walls reaching heights of up to 100m. motorway (Ljubljana-Jesenice) exit at Lipce, the local road Only officially discovered in 1891, the gorge’s natural beauty was from Jesenice via Kočna (11km). Taxi is also available. immediately recognised and work commenced on the construc- tion of a wooden walkway along its 1.6km length, opening to the By train From Ljubljana via Jesenice or Nova Gorica via public only two years later on 26 August 1893. The walkway has Bohinjska Bistrica and Bled. The station for the Gorje been renovated several times over the past century, but still looks municipality is Podhom. very much the way it did when it first opened. Nowadays it leads Tavčar Mansion is surrounded by lush green hills in the Poljanska Valley, photo by Izidor Jesenko awe-inspired visitors past rapids, pools and overgrown rocky Gorje Tourist Association Tel. +386 (0)31 34 40 53, crags to the 16m-high Šum waterfall at the gorge’s furthest end, The central settlement in the Pojanska Valley, Gorenja Vas subterranean forts were first discussed in 1926, actual con- [email protected], www.vintgar.si. which is said to be the highest fluvial waterfall in all of Slovenia. (which makes up half of the municipality of Gorenja Vas - struction didn’t commence until 1937 under the command The short but breathtaking trek is definitely a must-do for anyone Poljane) is roughly halfway between Škofja Loka and Žiri. of General Leon Rupnik, and was supposed to have been who visits the region! Q Open everyday from 1 April to 5 Nov For years it was a popular place to stop on the road from completed in 1947. 09:00-19:00. Admission €4 for adults, €3 students, €2 children, Vienna to Trieste, but saw much less traffic with the open- The pace of construction quickened as war broke out in other €0.80 children under six years-old. ing of the railway line in the middle of the 19th century, parts of Europe and by early 1941 over 60,000 men (both and was then burnt almost entirely to ground by children soldiers and civilians) were working on the project. However, playing with fire in 1901. when Axis forces finally invaded on 6 April 1941, the work Sports and activities Nowadays, with only some 1300 people calling the town abruptly stopped and the fortifications that had been built Cycling Some of the most beautiful cycling experiences in home, there is not an overwhelming amount to see or do were never actually used for military purposes. Today these nature are possible around here: from Zatrnik to Pokljuka and here, but it is probably the best place to organise a guided eerie remnants of darker times in European history can be Gorjuše, and to Bohinjska Bistrica (24km); via the amazing tour of the overgrown bunkers and fortifications that visited on guided tours, and make for one of the more interest- Radovna Valley to Mojstrana and Kranjska Gora (20km); and comprise Rupnik’s Line. There’s also one fine museum ing experiences to be had in the region. over Kočna to Jesenice (11km). Bled is only 5km away. Bear dedicated to photography - the Vlasta Photo Museum - in mind that these are mostly forest roads, so better to use and the Krvina Gallery, which exhibits and sells works by Tavčar Mansion Visoko pri Poljanah. Dating back to the a mountain bike. both Slovene and foreign artists. 14th century, this exquisite countryside manor was occupied by no less than a dozen noble families before finally settling Hiking Gorje is a paradise for beginners to intermediate under the ownership of the Kalan family for several centuries. hikers. You can enjoy a pleasant afternoon’s walk in the aston- Sightseeing In 1893, the estate was bought by the noted Slovene poet ishing beauty of Vintgar and Pokljuka canyon. Or you can walk Rupnik’s Line Of all the lessons learned in the aftermath and politician Ivan Tavčar, who was born into a poor peasant in the silence of mighty forests, gathering mushrooms in the of The Great War, one of the simplest was that employing family, but managed to work his way to the top of Slovene late summer. There are also more dangerous and advanced old military tactics despite the advent of new technologies society, becoming mayor of Ljubljana in 1911 and helping to paths to the highest peaks in the Julian Alps. Rudno Polje directly led to a massive increase in the number of casualties found the Sokol sports society among his many other achieve- is the perfect starting point for the Triglav mountain range. suffered by both sides - or to put it another way: charging into ments. Tavčar resided in the mansion (which was then referred Others interesting points are Viševnik (2050m), Debela Peč machine gun fire and fighting in muddy trenches for years on to as Kalan or Visoko Mansion) until his death in 1923, after (2014m) and Lipanski Vrh (1968m) . end was not a lot of fun. which he was buried in the family tomb on the property. This knowledge, coupled with a pessimistic outlook of a As would be expected the house has undergone numerous peaceful future, led many European states to construct renovations over its storied history, with its appearance now St George’s Fair and Spring Run fortifications along their borders in the years following the largely dating from the 18th century. More recently it has been war, and the newly formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and restored, or at least partially restored, by local authorities, St George’s Run and Spring Fair St George’s Fair Slovenes was no exception. who have also set up a small exhibition dedicated to Tavčar in- (or Jurjev Semenj) is a traditional event held every year in The Treaty of Rapallo had left nearly 1/3 of Slovene territory side. While visits here require prior arrangement, the grounds Zgornje Gorje on the last weekend of April. During the fair under the control of Italy in 1920, with the newly created themselves are also worth exploring, with the main sight many activities take place, from the blessing of horses border running just west of Gorenja Vas - Poljane and nearby (other than the building itself) being the large bronze statue to a large parade. On Saturday you can compete in the Žiri. As the Poljanska Valley was seen as the easiest route to of Tavčar reclining in a small grove, which was create by the ‘spring cross’, a special race, which attracts more and Ljubljana were there to be another major conflict, the most sculptor Jakob Savinšek in 1957. Located along the banks of more runners from the surrounding villages and from extensive fortifications were planned for this area. the Poljane Sora river, it can be seen to the south of the main The sheer rock cliffs of Vintgar Gorge are one of Slovenia’s other parts of Slovenia each year. Although proposals for a series of bunkers, tunnels and large road a few kilometres outside of Škofja Loka. most spectacular (and most hidden) natural attractions

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Bistro Oaza Cesta Maršala Tita 55, tel. +386 (0)45 86 43 96, www.bistro-oaza.si. With some of the largest What to see pizzas in Jesenice, the ‘Oasis’ bistro pretty much sells it- self, being popular with Austrians skipping over the border Cultural (through the Karavanke tunnel) in search of a cheap yet Historic Murova Dating back to at least the mid-15th good quality lunch. Their other homemade offerings are century, Murova is the oldest of the former group of settle- also an excellent value, and as such it should be on one’s ments which were later incorporated into Jesenice, with its itinerary to try whilst in town. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun first houses being made entirely of wood. In addition to St 10:00 - 23:00. Leonard’s church in the centre, a few old buildings retain their original character and are worth a look. Try asking for Pračkova Bowling Club Podmežakla Ledarska 5, tel. +386 Hiša, Resmanova Hiša, Pavlekova and Markeževa, otherwise (0)70 13 51 35, [email protected]. Fancy a just wander and spot the preserved architectural antiquity. spot of bowling before or after your meal? OK, we agree Murova lies on the Mirca mountain slope. that before is probably the healthier choice, especially given that they offer Slovene food, known to be on the heavy side. As well as the food (snacks and lunches) Museums and bowling, there is sometimes entertainment on, and the space can be rented. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun Stara Sava Franceta Prešerna 48, tel. +386 (0)4 08:00 - 23:00. 583 34 92, [email protected], www. gornjesavskimuzej.si. Made up of the Bucelleni-Ruardi mansion (now housing the Gornjesavski Muzej Jesenice), Pizza church of the Assumption, former workers’ residential Pizzerija Mak Cesta Bratov Stražišarjev 38, tel. +386 block (kasarna), renovated chimney and blast furnace, (0)45 86 15 35. Set into the hillside (on the Karavanke and a mill; the Old Sava complex has once again been Sheltered in a narrow valley and surrounded by nature, Jesenice is still one of Slovenia’s industrial centres, photo by Jošt side, under Stol) at the edge of the town, this typical Slovene reintroduced as a key part of the city of Jesenice. The Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia eatery serves locally renowned pizza from its large clay oven whole area has been renovated, and the outdoor space (krušna peč), ensuring the most tasty results of those most hosts summertime events. Apart from that, the life and With a combination of essences that seem not to marry staple of ingredients being combined with love and care. Our work on the site is presented in the Jesenice museum together too easily, Slovenia’s ‘mesto jekla in cvetja’ (town Where to eat personal choice, the kmečka, consists of farmer’s salami collection, through really impressive working models and of steel and flowers) manages to do just that. Situated in and mushrooms, plus the usual cheese and tomato sauce, reconstructed work-spaces (not to mention a mineral col- the upper-Sava valley region of Gorenjska, Jesenice is a Slovene all high quality. A family-run place, deliveries are also offered. lection and fragment of the meteorite that fell near here mostly formerly industrial city that is surrounded by moun- Kmečki Turizem Betel Planina pod Golico 39, tel. Q Open Mon 15:00-22:00, Wed-Fri 09:30-22:00, Sat-Sun in 2009); a reconstruction of an ironworker family’s living tains and hedged by the Karavanke ridge, with one very +386 (0)4 580 04 63/+386 (0)31 831 337, gasper. 12:00-22:00. Closed Tues. quarters is the main attraction of the former barracks special hill that has legendary status in Slovenia. Golica is [email protected]. Set high in the upper reaches of the (kasarna) here, the Jesuit architecture of the church being the home of daffodils in spring, and the slopes above the village of Planina pod Golico, just below the famed daf- the first in Slovenia. A must see whilst in Jesenice. town are adorned with innumerable white and yellow blos- fodil fields that transform the top of the mountain into a Mexican soms in May, the perfect time to visit! In addition to the sea of white each spring, Betel is said by many to have Pastel Trg Toneta Čufarja 3, tel. +386 (0)45 83 50 Kolpern Hall iron and steel heritage here, hockey is integral to the town, the best food in the region, and we have no reason to 78, [email protected], www.pastel.si. A great place to A reconstruction of one of several storage houses for spectated or participated in by the majority of the locals. disagree. Heaping plates of hearty and delicious Slovene dine if one fancies something a little more international, coal at the Stara Sava iron production settlement, this Another sport is the centre of attention in 2013 though, cuisine are served to famished hikers at the weekends, Gostilnica (little restaurant) Pastel serving up an array of attractive building now has two halls (one larger, one the opening rounds of the EuroBasket championships who seem to come here as much for the food as for the Mexican dishes, as well as Italian, salad plates, dishes to smaller) which host cultural events of all kinds, including being played at its sports arena. hiking. The place is also a certified 3-apple tourist farm, order, pizzas from a clay oven (iz krušne peči) and of course weddings, conferences and art exhibitions. Prices for with accommodation for up to 12 in three doubles and desserts. Fine wine and champagne make it the ideal both public and private engagements are very good, and three triples. Q Open Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, Mon-Fri by romantic choice, with the possibility of a digestif in nearby the antiquated surroundings of the restored industrial Arrival & Transport prior arrangement. Tea-ter Bar. Q Open 07:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 07:00-24:00, complex make it an attractive choice. Getting to Jesenice is easiest from Ljubljana (Slovenia) Sun 08:00-22:00. or Villach (Austria), two major cities close by. By car, it’s Ejga Maršala Tita 27, tel. +386 (0)4 586 60 00, ejga- Mining and iron production 45 minutes from Ljubljana via the A2 motorway and from [email protected], www.ejga-jesenice.si. Pronounced Jesenice is best-known for two things, daffodils and iron. The Villach south through the Karavanke tunnel on the A11 it ‘Ey-ga’, local dialect for ‘get a load of him’, the ambience Cafes and bars latter, albeit an unlikely candidate for romanticised travel dis- takes about a half hour. From Ljubljana’s Brnik airport it’s and very good food at this central restaurant is a slightly Kavarna Železar Franceta Prešerna 58a, tel. +386 coveries, is a fascinating aspect of our history and heritage, also about 30 minutes by car. more civilised affair than the name would suggest. They (0)41 62 25 26, [email protected], www.jur.si. A trip one that has been appreciated as such in recent decades. Going by train is also a good option, Jesenice being the serve typical Slovene farmhouse food for brunch or lunch, to the market (opened 2012) will bring you to this ironworks From the fifties onward, the veteren miners and ironworkers northernmost stop on the main line with frequent connec- specialities, desserts and à la carte dishes, with the themed cafe, and if you’re not planning a trip to the market of this area came together in an ardent effort to collect, col- tions in both directions. On Saturdays there are 12 trains, dunajski zrezek (chicken steak) proving to be one of the then maybe you should! There’s no better way to get to know late and honour the centuries old tradition, culminating in the and on Sundays there are 13 trains in total running from winners. Speaking of winners, the owner is none other the local people than to talk to them, and here you have the reintroduction of a former ironworking complex/community Ljubljana. If you’re coming from or going to Lake Bohinj, than Olympic skiing medalist Alenka Dovžan, who took perfect excuse. Located near the museum (Stara Sava) the into the heart of the city, Stara Sava. there are conveniently up to seven connections per day home a bronze medal from Lillihammer in 1994. QOpen cafe itself offers coffee and croissants (fresh) and the usual between Jesenice and Bohinjska Bistrica, taking only 30- 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed on Sundays stuff, plus alcoholic drinks. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00, Sat 06:00 Important dates for Jesenice’s iron and steel: 40 minutes. Check www.slo-zeleznice.si (in English) for the from May to August. - 15:00. Closed Sun. 1130 - mining iron ore starts in Savske Jame (the Sava complete timetable and ticket information. pits), in the hills around Jesenice. Tea-Ter bar Trg Toneta Čufarja 4, tel. +386 (0)40 1538 - the first ironworks are built at the site in Stara Tourist Information 602 838, [email protected]. The place to reward yourself Sava (where the museum is), by Bernardo Bucelleni Where to stay after a hard day’s (or just morning’s) tourist activities. A 16th Century - Savske Jame supplies large blast fur- For those in Jesenice for more than a day, or during a sports Tourist Information Centre Cesta maršala cold beer, seat on the terrace overlooking a square in the naces at Sava and Javornik event such as the Eurobasket, your options are either to Tita 18, tel. +386 (0)45 86 31 78, tic.jesenice@ centre of the town and hopefully good company make 1873 - innovative Jesenice steel receives a prestigous sleep in one of several mountain lodges, or reside in Bled siol.net, turizem.jesenice.si. Q Open 08:00- Tea-Ter the place to be for a largely younger clientele, but award at famous Rotunda in Vienna (16km) or Kranjska Gora (22.7km). Of the former, Dom 16:00. Closed Sat-Sun and holidays (Sept-June). without the absence of the odd family and couple. And 1992 - present day steel company, Acroni, estab- Pristava (see Javorniški Rovt) is the best known, but the other Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-14:00. Closed Sun and that’s during daylight hours. Located near the theatre, lished, still making specialist and niche steel and alloy accessible are Kmečki Turizem Betel in Planina pod Golico, holidays (July-Aug). unsurprisingly. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, products Apartments Tarman, Blandford and Podlogar also in Planina. Sun 08:00 - 24:00.

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The Kos Mansion (Kosova Graščina) Built in 1521, the Kos Mansion was one of four built by ironworks proprietors in EuroBasket 2013 the Jesenice area in the 16th and 17th centuries. This one has played a vital role, or rather vital roles throughout its The biennial European Basketball Championships, or- history, both virtuous and unsavoury. For example it was a ganised by the European branch of the IBF, are being held transit prison for the Germans during the second world war, in Slovenia in 2013. The sporting town of Jesenice will host but towards the end of the 19th century served for thirty Group B of the preliminary stages in the first half of Sep- years as a primary school (know to locals as stara šola - the tember, which is comprised of the following nations: Bosnia old school). The mansion, now with a municipal wedding hall and Herzegovina (BiH), Lithuania (LT), Macedonia (FYROM), on the second floor, exhibition space and restored prison cell; Montenegro (MNE), Serbia (SRB), and Latvia (LV). has its namesake in one Pavel Kos. The story goes that the The matches will be played in the Podmežakla Sports shoemaker stole a barrel from a wagon of French soldiers, Arena (Športna Dvorana Podmežakla), which has had a which upon opening the next day revealed a massive haul of full refurbishment, and offers 5500 seats (including 55 golden coins, enough to see the merchant buy the mansion disabled spectators). It is also the home of Jesenice’s (beginning of the 19th century) and other local assets. world famous ice hockey team. The Plavž Memorial Park (Spominski Park na The Group B programme for Jesenice: Plavžu) The resting place of many, and remembrance site 4 Sept 2013 - LV/BiH, SRB/LT, FYROM/MNE for lives lost in both World War I (see soldiers chapel near 5 Sept 2013 - BiH/SRB, MNE/LV, LT/FYROM the entrance), during the drilling of the Karavanke railway 6 Sept 2013 - MNE/BiH, FYROM/SRB, LV/LT tunnel (1904-5, see monument with a metal cross) and also 8 Sept 2013 - BiH/FYROM, LT/MNE, SRB/LV for local ironworkers and national hero, Tone Čufar (note the 9 Sept 2013 - LT/BiH, LV/FYROM, MNE/SRB bronze busts by sculptor, Jaka Torkar). Built on a previously abandoned cemetery, the current excellently maintained gardens have grown up in the last thirty years, with over 200 Zois, discovered an endemic yellow pansy here, named Zois’ ornamental trees and plants. violet. Fossils of ancient flora and fauna are abundant, includ- Jezersko’s picturesque alpine valleys have more animals than people, guaranteeing guests a peaceful, relaxing stay ing samples of sea lilies, ferns, urchins and snails. All in all a great spot or starting/finishing point for families or nature Nature lovers alike. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. The municipality of Jezersko is a popular tourist destina- the unique chance to try mineral water which has the highest Hiking Around Jesenice There are numerous hikes pos- tion for Slovenes, but has not yet been discover by magnesium content in all of Slovenia and is especially recom- sible and marked paths around Jesenice. The most notable Planina Pod Golico Jesenice is famous for two things, and masses of foreign visitors. The eye-catcher here is the ro- mended to people with cardiovascular diseases. Most visitors are Stol (one of the most popular in the whole Karavanke the village of Planina Pod Golico has or had them both, namely mantic Lake Planšar surrounded by grandiose mountains. seeking the full therapeutic effects of the water choose to bathe range); Mežakla (with a natural bridge and well-known rocky iron and daffodils. The former was mined until the 15th century The valley is a good starting point for hikes and bike rides, in it. For those who would like to taste it, be aware that drinking outcrop called Poljanska Baba on the way to the top that from nearby mines, and the latter is celebrated every year with but also lends itself perfectly for more easygoing and more then 2dl is not a good idea, as it has a laxative effect. To overlooks the town from high above); Vajnež (the highest a festival in May. The grassy mountain of Golica becomes a relaxing holidays. The area used to be part of Carinthia but reach the two waterfalls, which have a 7m drop and are situated peak in the municipality); Hruška Planina (accessible from floating sea of white and yellow blooms come spring, and was was ceded to the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes at an altitude of 1240m, follow the signs from spring. Dovje, Hrušica, Plavški Rovt or Planina Pod Golico); Dobršnik most famously celebrated in the Avsenik national folk song, in 1919 and since then has a special place in the heart of (seven waterfalls on the way to Hruška planina from Hrušica); Na Golici (On Golica), said to be the most played song in the most Slovenes. Krtina Partisan Hospital Continue on the gravel road and Španov Vrh (with winter skiing). world! The village itself is 5km from Jesenice, has some ac- from the Travertine quarry onwards up the hill and park in commodation to offer (mainly apartments) and a lovely view TIC Jezersko Tel. +386 (0)4 25 45 140/+386 (0)51 the vicinity of the wooden bridge. This might look adventur- Javorniški Rovt It is well worth a trip up into the slopes of the said mountain. In winter the slopes are used for skiing, 219 282, [email protected], www.jezersko.info. Q Open ous but it is doable. Follow the signs to the Krtina Partisan of the Karavanke mountains near Jesenice, Javorniški Rovt whilst all summer the village serves as yet another starting Mon-Tues 10:00-15:00, Wed-Fri 09:00-12:00/13:00-17:00, Hospital. Built in 1944 the little hospital saw a total of 30 comprising a mountain cottage (Pristava), serene Zoisov point for hiking trips. Sat 09:00-12:00/13:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-12:00/13:00- patients before it burned down in 1945. Rebuilt in 1953, it is Park with artificial lake and, if you come in May or June, a 17:00. Closed in the wintertime. reconstructed in its original form and houses a small exhibition sea of daffodil filled meadows. Up from Javorniški Rovt village, Šum Gorge and Waterfall (Vintgar in Slap Šum) The about the living conditions of partisans and medical person- Pristava will welcome you offering tasty stews, the quintes- sound of the Šum waterfall earns its name (which is Slovene nel who served here during the war. Beds, cooking equipment, sential traditional Slovene štruklji (dumplings) and ajdovi žganci for ‘roar’), with the rushing torrent of Radovna in the gorge What to See & Do cutlery and medical equipment are all on display in such a (buckwheat porridge). Built in 1647, it’s a very popular place here providing the awesome spectacle of a 26m drop, which Jenk’s Barracks Museum (Jenkova Kasarna), playful way that it is almost like the cottage is still in use. to spend a summer afternoon, hikers and sunbathers filling you can look directly over from a footbridge. Known to tourists tel. +386 (0)4 53 25 411/+386 (0)30 685 011, www. the recliners here. Zoisov Park, is a story in itself, and one for a hundred years, Šum is part of the gorge simply known as jezersko.info. Originally built in the 15th century as a board- Lake Planšar This small romantic and by coincidence of botanical renown. Karel Zois, the brother of the park’s ‘Vintgar’ (Slovene for gorge), but falls under Jesenice’s jurisdic- ing house for travelling merchants, as Jezersko is located heart-shaped lake may be artificial, but this in no way dimin- namesake, the nobelman and owner of Pristava, Baron Žiga tion and is reached by a small and pretty road, lying between along one of the major routes between the historic regions ishes its beauty or the aura of tranquility it radiates. Not many the two towns. Be it the sprin-gtime green flora, summer cool of Carniola and Carinthia, there is still some debate as to how foreign tourists make the journey here, which is unfortunate off, autumn colours or giant winter icicles, Šum is always sure the large peculiar building got its name. Although it never of- because the drive leads through some beautiful natural to have its charm. Access via Blejska Dobrava. ficially served any military purpose, some say that it simply sights. The lake is surrounded by lush green mountains and resembles a military structure, while others proclaim the more offers a spectacular view of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. There The Month of Daffodils (Mesec Narcis) Jesenice is romantic notion that Napoleon’s troops stayed here during are several hiking paths around the lake and an outstanding the place to be in May, when its most famous village comes the time of the Illyrian provinces. Regardless of its history, restaurant which offers excellent homemade cuisine. The alive with daffodils and happy people. The Month of Daffodils nowadays the premises house a fine rural ethnographical whole place has an air of unpretentiousness and is a great features several events: exhibitions of photography and paint- museum with a diverse collection of items. Perhaps the most place to spend an afternoon. ings, the Miss Daffodils ceremony takes place, and many hikes interesting are some well-preserved inscriptions left on the to Golica and Rovte are organised. Planina Pod Golico becomes walls by travellers several centuries ago - a type of historical Travertine Quarry When on your way to Jezersko take some a village of daffodils, and the crowds come to celebrate at the graffiti! To get there, take the road north towards the Austrian time for a small detour to this former quarry, it’s worthwhile. At traditional village party (veselica). Kmečke igre ( or farm games, border, there’s a sign reading ‘Jenkova kasarna’ directing you the small village of Bajte turn left and cross the bridge, continue eg races) are fought out in joyous rural style. Štefelin’s house to take the second right. Q Open with prior arrangement only. along the gravel road. On your right-hand side you will see a serves as the gallery space and temporary tourist office, the Admission €1.50 adults, €1 children. quarry, which is not operational anymore but this makes it a participants of the event receiving awards from the mayor at perfect playground for amateur geologists and anybody else the end of it all. The event is crucial to the identity of Jesenice, Ank’s Spring and Waterfall Pass Ank’s farm and continue who likes fossils and stones in all shapes, sizes and colours. The sea of white daffodils on Golica are a sight to behold and as such the daffodil emblem is jokingly referred to as the uphill on the gravel path, from here you can follow the signs to There is treasure everywhere. The travertine deposits are up to each spring vinjeta (tax sticker) of the town. Don’t miss (narcis)! the mineral water spring and waterfalls. At the spring you have 20 metres thick and fossils can be found with every step.

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Creina Koroška 5, tel. +386 (0)4 281 75 00, info@ Gostilna Krištof Predoslje 22, tel. +386 (0)4 234 hotel-creina.si, www.hotel-creina.si. If ever a hotel were 10 30/+386 (0)41 358 786, [email protected], www. to prove the old adage not to judge a book by its cover (or gostilnakristof.si. One of the dozen or so Slovene res- in this case accommodation by its façade) then the Creina taurants that are perennially in the running for the title of would be it. Located on the main square just north of the the finest dining in the country, Krištof can be found in the old town centre, while the building’s exterior can best be village of Predoslje just next to Brdo Castle north of Kranj. described as an acquired taste dating back to 1970, it’s True to it’s small town roots, the restaurant combines the actually a creation of renowned Slovene architect Edvard best of rural ambience and charm with modern Slovenian Ravnikar and a protected historical and cultural monument. cuisine, and the family that runs the place is said to have On the other hand, the interior recently underwent exten- been the catering business for more than 700 years, so sive renovations and has been completely modernised. you can rest assured that you’re in good hands. The fresh An added bonus is the restaurant, which has great views seasonal menu is certified organic, and there are also many of the surrounding landscape, especially from the large vegetarian and vegan dishes to choose from, all of which can terrace that hangs out over the hillside. Q 87 rooms. be found in English (and with prices) on their website. PJHAULKW Gostilna Na Sedlu Čepulje 3, tel. +386 (0)4 231 11 Hostel Cukrarna Tavčarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)51 788 20/+386 (0)51 237 235, [email protected]. With 887, [email protected], www.cukrarna.si. One of our a name that translates directly as ‘inn on the saddle’, the favourite hostels in all of Slovenia can be found in the saddle in this case being the pretty little village of Čepulje premises of a former confectionery on a quiet street in on top of which it sits, this family-run restaurant has been Kranj’s old town. Run by a well-travelled local who knows satisfying hungry locals for more than a century. At an exactly what it takes to give guests a pleasantly memo- altitude of 665m (luckily it’s not one metre higher or we’d rable stay, Cukrarna has all the small touches that make a be tempted to make some terrible joke about the food hostel great. Of course the facilities themselves are also being devilishly good), Na Sedlu is extremely popular with excellent, with cool common spaces, high ceilings, ample crowds of hikers who seem to make secular pilgrimages bathrooms, great views and pretty much everything else here on the way to or from the hills. The cuisine is nothing you could want. JBXW fancy, but everything is excellent, from the fresh homemade bread to bowls of piping hot deer goulash and everything in Kokra Predoslje 39, tel. +386 (0)4 260 10 00, fax 386 between. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 4 04 202 15 51, [email protected], www.brdo.com. If Closed Mon, Tue. you can’t afford to stay in the ultra-luxurious apartments inside Brdo Castle (and very few can!), the four-star Hotel Gostišče Arvaj Kajuhova 2, tel. +386 (0)4 280 01 Kranj’s old town boasts one of the most beautiful medieval skylines in the world, photo by Luka Dakskobler, courtesy of the Kokra is the next best thing. The hotel is set just outside the 10, www.arvaj.si. Founded by a single pioneering butcher Kranj Tourist Board entrance of the castle estate, and offers unfettered access back in 1956, in the past half century the company has to all of the attractions within, from carriage rides drawn grown to employ more than 50 people, and the name Arvaj Perched on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the the premises of an early-19th century mansion that was most by famed white Lipizzaner horses and picnics in the park has become synonymous with famed Kranjska Klobasa, Sava and Kokra rivers, the old town of Kranj has one of the recently the headquarters of a large bank, Actum opened its to the the modern conference centre and of course tours winning countless medals, awards and other acclama- most spectacular medieval skylines that you’ll likely ever doors in 2011 and now offers 17 glorious rooms, including ten of the castle itself. Recent renovations have bestowed the tions. Thus there is likely no better place in the world to see, with its three distinct church towers and an unreal larger suites with jacuzzi baths among other luxuries such as hotel with all the modern comforts, and the premises also try Kranj’s trademark sausages, which is a must for all backdrop of the Slovenian Alps rising up only a few kilome- Persian rugs and Venetian chandeliers. Despite its first-class include a fine restaurant, new wellness centre and two (non-vegetarian) visitors. Located to the north of the city tres to the north. Not as well-known as Bled or as heavily pedigree the hotel still manages to maintain an unpretentious conference halls. The rooms and suites are a great value, centre at the eastern edge of the lush Kokra gorge, the trodden by tourists on Kranjska Gora, in most senses of personality, demonstrated by its subtle theme of old timer while the 200m2 presidential suite is true to its name, restaurant has warm ambience and a full menu of Slovene the word Kranj is still the true capital of the Gorenjska cars and other cheeky touches in the uniquely furnished having accommodated a certain US leader during his stay cuisine to choose from. Their products can also be found in region, both historically speaking and nowadays, as it has rooms. Q 17 rooms (singles €90, doubles €140-160, family in Slovenia in 2001. PHARLKD finer supermarkets across Slovenia. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, long-served as one of the main industrial centres of Slove- room €250, presidential suite €350). PTJALKW Sun 09:00 - 16:00. nia and is also the country’s fourth largest city. Thanks to its ideal position at the foothills of the moun- Azul Šuceva 26, tel. +386 (0)8 2000 300, info@hotel- Restaurants & Cafés tains but also only a short commute (20km) to Ljubljana, azul.si, www.hotel-azul.si. Situated on the eastern edges Brioni Koroška 10, tel. +386 (0)4 201 07 50, Tourist Information Kranj is a popular place for young families to settle down, of the city, the newly built Azul is quite possibly he most [email protected]. If you’ve had your fill of dining on heavy Mit- as property prices are a bit more reasonable here than conveniently located hotel in all of Slovenia - less than 5km teleuropa cuisine in traditional wooden-laden restaurants TIC Kranj Glavni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)4 2380 in the capital, and an abundance of shopping centres from Brnik airport, 14km from the Krvavec ski resort, 22km and inns, then a trip to the refreshingly modern Brioni is a 450/+386 (0)4 2380 451, [email protected], and other modern conveniences have been built in recent from Ljubljana and 30km from Bled. Surrounded by cultivated good idea. Named for the north Croatian islands where Tito www.tourism-kranj.si. Set in a beautiful 16th-century years. farmland with sweeping views of the Alps from room windows, kept his magnificent summer residence (and entertained townhouse right in the centre of the old town, Kranj’s Of course it’s Kranj’s historic centre that is still the main the hotel combines rural tranquility and urban premises, with various foreign heads of state, film stars and other celebri- tourist information centre is the most logical first stop draw for most tourists and daytrippers. Protected as a ample conference and meeting facilities, modern amenities and ties), the restaurant’s fresh light fare is definitely Mediter- for most visitors to the city. In addition to countless national cultural monument since 1983, the lively old town professional service. Q 25 rooms. PHALW ranean-influenced and prepared with exquisite attention to brochures in a variety of languages covering everything boasts an variety of diverse sights, from religious monu- detail by award winning young chef Tomaž Polenec. Gourmet in Kranj and elsewhere in the Gorenjska region (several ments and ethnological museums to modern arts spaces Bellevue Šmarjetna Gora 6, tel. +386 (0)4 270 00 soups, salads and sandwiches are also available, and on of which can even be downloaded directly from their and unique remnants from World War II. For most Slovenes 00, [email protected], www.bellevue.si. Perched top of everything the truly amazing desserts are both liter- website), there’s free internet, a fine selection of gifts the city is inextricably linked with the nation’s greatest at the very top of Šmarjetna Gora just to the west of the ally and metaphorically the icing on the cake. and souvenirs, a small gallery with contemporary art poet, France Prešeren, who lived and worked here in the city centre, the hill is actually 11m shorter today than exhibitions and bicycle hires for €2 per hour or only €5 for mid-19th century. when the hotel was built, as the top had to be flattened to Gostilna Kot Maistrov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)4 202 61 05, the whole day. Arrangements can also be made for a tour make space for it. In any event, the end result is absolutely gostilnakot.si. Located just inside the former town walls at with an experienced local guide. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, stunning panoramic views in all directions, which are said to the north end of the old town, Kot prepares traditional authen- Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Accommodation cover up to 20% of all Slovene territory on clear days. The tic Slovene cuisine at reasonable prices. With a couple of large Actum Prešernova 6, tel. +386 (0)5 90 82 400, info@ rooms are not exceptionally luxurious or modern, but are a dining halls it’s a popular venue for weddings, celebrations and actum-hotel.com, www.actum-hotel.com. It may come great value for the views alone, and the hotel restaurant is other events, and in the summer time it’s not uncommon to as a surprise to find that one of the country’s top boutique excellent - definitely worth a visit even if you’re not a guest see a whole pig roasting on the spit outside, where a seasonal hotels is found right in heart of Kranj’s old town, but we can at the hotel. Q 20 rooms (singles €35-40, doubles €60, terrace is also set up on the square. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, slovenia.inyourpocket.com enthusiastically confirm that this is indeed the case. Set in waterbed rooms €55-75). HALBKXW Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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Titled Beautiful Gorenjska, the comprehensive and extremely give visitors demonstrations of how they functioned. Smaller Plečnik in Kranj well-presented exhibition leads visitors on a journey from in scale but equally interesting are the numerous business The Tunnels Under Kranj the geological formation of the region millions of years ago, and personal items from the Pirc family, which include a large Although he didn’t leave as much of a legacy in Kranj through prehistoric settlements, the arrival of Slavic tribes, working desk covered in aged documents, various middle-class as did his one time protégé Edvard Ravnikar, Slovenia’s development of Slovenes as a distinct people, growth during household items, many original old photos (with some great great architect Jože Plečnik’s unmistakable work can be the medieval and renaissance periods, and concludes with beards among the previous generations!), and a special pre- seen at three different sites around the city. The most modern Slovenia’s accession to the European Union. Special sentation of the family’s most influential member, the late Ciril notable is the colonnaded façade of Prešeren Theatre, emphasis is given to several other important areas such as the Pirc who was mayor of Kranj from 1921 till 1935. which was added during extensive renovations carried ethnology of rural life in the region, including both the hardships During his terms in office the town saw great development. out in the early 1950s - Plečnik’s trademark lamps will faced and social triumphs, the notable individuals of the 19th Ironically, it was also at this time that rapid industrialisation be familiar to anyone who has seen his work in Ljubljana. century, both World Wars and the Yugoslav era. The space led to the closing of the dye-works, but in a further twist of At the southern entrance to the old town is a sight often of the castle’s interior is used to maximum effect, and some fate nowadays many of these factories have themselves overlooked by most casual visitors, but which is one interesting and novel curatorial approaches make a visit here been shuttered, while the dye-works is once again open to of our favourites: a large fountain and obelisk topped both fascinating and informative. As such, the museum is great the public, albeit in a strictly educational capacity. Visits can by a bronze rooster, which is an interpretation of the place to begin a first trip to the region. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. be arranged through the tourist info centre, and tours are Plečnik-designed Garden of Eden at Prague Castle. On Closed Mon. Admission €2.50, students €2, families €4.50. often given by Ciril Pirc’s granddaughter, and founder of the the opposite side of the old town (at Koroška Cesta museum, Darja, who despite her modesty speaks almost 27) is one of the few single-family homes that Plečnik Kokra River Canyon While most visitors admire Kranj perfect English and is happy to regale visitors with stories designed, the so-called Bežek Villa, nowadays home to for the breathtaking panoramic views of the mountains to from the intertwined histories of her family and Kranj. Q Open the Gorenjska Tourism Association and the Mountaineer- the north, the first inhabitants chose to settle here not for upon prior arrangement. Admission €2. ing Club of Kranj. its natural beauty, but for the more practical reason that the 30m deep gorge immediately to the east provided a Prešeren’s Grove Gregorčičeva Ulica & Partizanska significant defensive advantage. Carved into the colourful Cesta. The town’s cemetery from the end of the 18th century conglomerate sedimentary rock at the end of the most recent until 1951, one of the few tombstones left here is that belong- What to see ice age, the lush green canyon is home an extremely diverse ing to none other than the great France Prešeren, as well as Tel. +386 (0)4 23 80 450, www.tourism-kranj.si. collection of plants and animals, and has been a protected those of his daughter and another noted Slovene poet Simon One of the most unique attractions in the Gorenjska Essential Kranj natural site since 1983. Jenko. Whilst standing in front of the modest marble monu- region is the WWII-era tunnel complex that runs for Khislstein Castle & The Museum of Gorenjska For those who would like to explore the area themselves, the ment marking Prešeren’s final resting place, astute visitors will 1.3km under the heart of Kranj’s old town and was built Tomšičeva 42, tel. +386 (0)4 201 39 50, www.gorenjski- most easily accessible public entrance is next to the Poštna notice that his name is actually written ‘Prešerin’, which is not to serve as a bomb shelter. Construction commenced muzej.si. A key element of Kranj’s magnificent medieval Ulica Bridge, and the tourist office stocks a very information a mistake but simply an alternative 19th-century spelling. The in the late-1930s in anticipation of he conflict, but most skyline and quite literally an inseparable part of the town brochure that includes a maps as well as details about the grove’s other monument of note is the small pyramid found of what exists today was carried out by occupying forces (as the complex’s lower section forms part of the defensive areas flora and fauna, geological history and the milling in- in the northwest corner, which dates from 1931 and is one in 1944, as they feared Kranj would be targeted by Al- walls), Khislstein Castle derives both its name and Renais- dustry that flourished here until the early 20th century. During of the earliest memorials to the victims of fascism in Europe. lied bombing due to its strategic location and strong sance appearance from its 16th-century owner Janez Khisl. the summer months the several rocky beaches found along Despite the solemn air here, the area is actually a popular industrial output. The complex crosss directly under the Historical records show that other fortifications were built on the riverbanks are popular destination for swimmers or those local park, especially during the warmer months when it’s not old town with a western entrance at Jelenov Klanec, an the same site as early as the 5th century, while excavations just looking to escape the heat. uncommon to find families enjoying a picnic or kids playing east entrance in Kokra Canyon and a southern entrance of the castle’s foundations have unearthed artefacts going football. To get here just follow Gregorčičeva Ulica a couple below Pungert - there is also a ‘secret’ entrance above all the way to late Antiquity. More recently the castle and its Layer’s House Tomšičeva 32, tel. +386 (0)31 37 92 hundred metres north from the Kranj City Library. ground behind Prešeren Theatre. grounds were extensively renovated in 2012, when the open- 37, [email protected], www.layer.si. The one-time home of Following the war the tunnels were largely forgotten about air summer theatre was built and the Museum of Gorenjska’s Kranj native and lifelong resident Leopold Layer (1752-1828), Pungert Tower Trubarjev Trg 6. Occupying the southernmost and fell into a state of disuse, although during the 1980s central exhibition was opened on the premises. a prolific Slovene painter, has recently been transformed into edge of Kranj’s old town, on the promontory overlooking the one enterprising local restauranteur used a large section a beautiful multi-use arts space, which features a cool café confluence of the Kokra and Sava rivers, is the city’s only entirely of them to grow his own supply of mushrooms. Due to with sweeping views over the old town walls, a museum with preserved 16th-century defensive tower: Pungert. The distinctly the waste produced by this subterranean agriculture as several permanent exhibitions, and even a few gorgeous resi- German sounding name is derived from the German word for well as the more than half a century of general neglect, dences that are intended primarily by visiting artists but can orchard, baumgarten, which at one time grew here. Among other the tunnels were in rather poor condition at the end of also be hired by tourists. The first-floor museum is divided into uses, over the centuries the tower has served as residences and the 20th century. Recognising that they are an important three parts, with one room boasting walls covered in restored a prison, counting among its inmates the well-known local artist piece of the country’s historical and technological heri- 19th-century frescoes, another showcasing an impressive Leopold Layer, who was convicted of forging currency. tage, in 2003 the Caving Society of Kranj decided to take collection of works by Layer himself, while the third is devoted Nowadays the premises contain a 3-floor children’s play the initiative of cleaning them up, and were later joined to the life and work of Janez Puhar, who was a pioneer of early centre, which frequently hosts various events and activities by the city and other organisations, with the extensive photography and is credited with inventing a novel method of for children such as puppet workshops and performances. restoration works finally completed and the tunnels capturing images on glass in 1841. Elsewhere in the house For older visitors, there’s a cosy café-cum-bar that is also a opened to the public in 2008. there is a small gift stocks some unique souvenirs, and there is venue for live open-air concerts during the Jazz Kamp festival In the years since their reopening the tunnels have also additional space for workshops, lecture and other events. in August, and in the immediate vicinity there is a large 15th become one of Kranj’s main tourist attractions, even QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. century church and a recently built glass bottomed lookout winning the national tourism board’s so-called Silver platform that juts out precariously over the Kokra Canyon. Sower award in 2009, given for especially creative and Pirc Dye-Works Vodopivčeva 11, tel. +386 (0)4 202 70 To round out the already wonderful atmosphere, there’s also innovative achievements in Slovenian tourism. In ad- 11/+386 (0)40 79 11 96. More than a simple ethnologi- an old music school right next door whose pupils provide a dition to a small permanent exhibition of minerals and cal exhibition, the Pirc Dye-Works takes visitors on journey pleasant (if sometimes off-key) soundtrack. fossils, and a reconstructed bomb shelter that includes through the economic, social and political history of Kranj a simulated air raid, the tunnels now host several well- and Slovenia over the past few centuries, as well as offering attended annual events such as the Kranj Wine Route, an intriguing glimpse into the lives of the Pirc family, eight Buildings & Squares a nativity production during Christmas time, a children’s generations of whom operated the dye-works in the very Glavni Trg (Main Square) This long narrow square in entertainment programme featuring Kranček the Dwarf same house and still reside there to this day. the heart of the old town is Kranj’s main public space (hence and various other cultural events (concerts, literary read- The private museum was opened in 2006, the centrepiece of the name) and home to many of the city’s most visited ing, film nights, etc). Q Regular guided tours are given which is a 5m long oak box that was filled with some 5 tonnes of sights, such as the Parish Church of St Kancijan, Prešeren every Tuesday and Friday at 17:00 and on Saturday stone from the Sava river and used to flatten the dyed linen and Theatre, several galleries and museums and the tourist of- and Sunday at 10:00, with a meeting point in front of cotton in the final stage of the production process. The massive fice. It also serves as the main venues for events throughout the main tourist office on Glavni Trg. Admission €3 for Looking out over the Kokra Canyon from Pungert, photo by press mechanism, along with another smaller device, both date the year, from weekly farmers markets to the all-important adults, €2.50 groups, €2 children. Luka Dakskobler, courtesy of the Kranj Tourist Board from the turn of the 18th century, and have been restored to Prešeren’s Fair.

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Kranj City Library Gregorčičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)4 201 the original brutalist structure (eg rusted steel plates and Maistrov Trg (Maister Square) Named for the 35 50, fax +386 (0)4 201 35 60, [email protected], www. exposed I-beams) with modern additions (a glass façade and moustachioed general Rudolf Maister, who famously Prešeren in Kranj mkk.si. As an institution Kranj City Library dates back to 1960, futuristic ergonomic furniture), and is rightfully a newfound secured the city of Maribor and its surrounding lands for but after dutifully providing the good citizens of Gorenjska with source of pride for local residents. More than just fancy home Slovenia during the waning days of the First World War, the Born not far from Kranj in the small village of Vrba, reading material for some five decades, the library made a for books and periodicals, Kranj’s library has been conceived square marks the north end of the old town. While Maister Slovenia’s greatest poet and national cultural icon headlines in 2011 when it centralised several of its branches to serve as the ‘town’s living room’, providing ample space himself was not from Kranj, he is a fitting namesake for France Prešeren has remained closely linked to the in the renovated premises of a former socialist-era shopping social activities and also hosting various exhibitions, lectures the square, as this was historically the most vulnerable town since his untimely death here in 1849. Raised in centre. Both inside and out the building is an impressive and other cultural events. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:30 position in the town’s defences, and thus had thick double a family of relatively well-off farmers, Prešeren showed architectural specimen, seamlessly combining elements of - 13:30. Closed Sun. walls to keep out unwanted guests. Nowadays the exact great aptitude for studies at an early age and was thus position of the former walls is marked by rose coloured sent to be educated at private Catholic schools in the paving stones. south of Slovenia, before attending the prestigious State Culture & Events Gymnasium in Ljubljana. The young Prešeren spent the Slovenski Trg (Slovenian Square) Just north of the better part of the 1820s working towards his law degree old town, Slovenia Square, or Slovenski Trg, is the heart of in Vienna, which is also where he made his first attempts Events modern Kranj. Redesigned as larger open space following at writing poetry. Jazz Kamp Various Venues, www.gramus.si. For one WWII, in addition to the city’s most prestigious secondary Upon returning to Ljubljana, he was unable to open his week each August the city of Kranj is taken over by jazz school and some very colourful modern blocks, several of own independent law practice due to the discriminatory musicians, jazz enthusiasts and lovers of great music, the buildings on the square are the work of famed 20th policies of the Germanic city authorities, so he resigned during the annual festival known as Jazz Kamp. During the century architect Edvard Ravnikar, including the Creina Ho- himself to assisting other lawyers, which at least allowed day attendees participate in workshops, lessons and both tel, City Hall and the former Globus shopping centre, which him sufficient free time to further develop as a poet. In individual and group sessions under the tutelage of profes- now houses the magnificent Kranj City Library. However, 1946, the now middle-aged Prešeren was finally given sional jazz mentors, while during the evenings the general the focal point of the square itself are the mesmerising permission to open his own office in Kranj in his native public is treated to open-air jam sessions and an organised sculptures by Lojze Dolinar, whose work is characterised Gorenjska, but this long sought after achievement came programme of concerts by Slovene and international art- by vivid expression and dynamic movement. Of special too late, as years of depression and heavy drinking ists, transforming the old town into one large festive stage. interest for tourists is the scale-size bronze relief of Kranj finally and fatally caught up with him less than three One of our favourite events of the year, the festival gains in that was installed in 2007. years later. popularity each year, so it’s best to book accommodation In the years after his death, the town of Kranj became well in advance as it can become quite scare. the de facto guardian of the great poet’s legacy, and even Churches nowadays his presence is felt throughout the city. The Khislstein Summer Theatre Tomšičeva 44, tel. Church of St Fabian, St Sebastian and St Rok house in which he lived and worked is now the Prešeren +386 (0)4 238 04 50, [email protected], www. recitals of his poetry, concerts of period music, all manner Trubarjev Trg. The smallest of the three churches in Memorial Museum (located naturally on Prešeren Street), tourism-kranj.si. From May to September each year this of costumed performers and various other activities. All Kranj’s old town, it does at least enjoy an enviable position while his final resting place is now a public park known as new open-air amphitheatre hosts frequent concerts (both of the city’s cultural institutions also open their doors with at the very south end of town, high on the bluff overlooking Prešeren Grove. Since 1945, Slovenia has commemo- classical and pop), various theatrical performances, a cul- their own programmes of activities and events. Definitely the confluence of the Kokra and Sava rivers. Built during rated the day Prešeren died, 8 February, as the national tural festival or two, and many other events. The facilities a festive experience not to be missed! the 15th century, it was named for the trifecta of saints day of culture, and the largest event in the country is held have space for more than 400 seats or an standing audi- who are patrons against deadly diseases. in Kranj. There are also several public sculptures of the ence of up to 800, and there’s even a retractable fabric roof Wine Road in the Tunnels Under Kranj Glavni poet, including the most famous one set just outside the in case of bad weather. Along with Vovk’s Garden, Škrlovec Trg 2, tel. 04-2380-450, vinskapot@tourism-kranj. Church of St Kancijan Glavni Trg. Of the three old Prešeren Theatre, as well as the Prešeren Prize Winners Tower, Layer’s House and of course Khislstein Castle itself, si, www.tourism-kranj.si. Slovenia is not lacking in wine- town churches that distinguish Kranj’s majestic medieval Gallery with a collection of works by the artists who have the summer theatre rounds out Kranj’s burgeoning arts related events (or wine for that matter), but Kranj’s annual skyline, the most impressive is the parish Church of St won Slovenia’s most important artist award. district, with all of the venues found within a couple hundred wine festival in mid-November may be the most interesting metres of each other. of them all, as it takes place in the tunnels underneath the old town. First held in 2008 shortly after the restored Kancijan. Its current appearance dates primarily from the WWII-era tunnels were reopened to the public, the event 15th century, while the founding stone was laid all the way has grown each year both in terms of participating wine back in the 8th century when it was first built as a Slavic producers and visitors - with well over 60 of the former and church. The interior feels even more monumental, with several thousand of the latter taking part. Due to the space brightly decorated Gothic rib vaults supported by ornate limitations of tunnels the number of visitors admitted per keystones sitting atop massive polygonal columns. For hour is limited, but to accommodate the growing demand us the highlights are the very modernist altar from the the festival has added more days, and is also now compli- 1930s and the crucifix suspended in the air above it, mented by a full programme of other events around town which depicts Jesus without a cross. Outside of Mass the running concurrently. church doors are infrequently open, but the friendly priest is usually somewhere nearby with the keys - enquire at Youth Week (Teden Mladih) [email protected], www. the TIC office if you’d like to visit. teden-mladih.si. In May each year Kranj becomes the youth capital of Slovenia during its annual Youth Week festivities. Holy Mother of the Rosary Cankarjeva Ulica. With With roots dating back to the socialist era, the festival’s its distinctive tower the so-called Rosary Church is an es- Prešeren’s Fair Various Venues, info@tourism- modern incarnation was born during a now legendary punk sential part of Kranj’s famous old town skyline. Situated in kranj.si, www.tourism-kranj.si. One of Slovenia’s most concert at Khislstein Castle in 1995, and has since grown the southern part of the town just next to Plečnik’s gate, important cultural events takes place in Kranj each year into a week-long event organised by the Student Associa- the church was built at the beginning of the 16th century on 8 February, the country’s official day of culture, which is tion of Kranj. A diverse programme of more than 100 events and long-served as a place of worship for Protestants a work-free public holiday chosen because it was the day offers something for everyone, from families with younger during its early years. Restored in the 17th century in a famed poet France Prešeren passed away in 1849. As Kranj children to university students looking for a party. Across the Late Gothic style, it was completely renovated again in is the unofficial guardian of Prešeren’s heritage, it’s only city exhibitions, workshops, lectures and other educational the 1890s. fitting the it hosts the largest celebration of not only his life activities compete with sporting competitions, concerts, and and work, but also the period in which he lived. For one day entertainment events for the attention of the thousands of the streets and squares of Kranj’s old town are transported visitors who come to Kranj. Q A bracelet giving admission back to the early-19th century, and some 20,000 visitors to most activities, including evening events and concerts, Slovenia Square is the heart of modern Kranj and home slovenia.inyourpocket.com are entreated to experience the time of Prešeren with starts from only €10. to some amazing modern works of art by sculptor Lojze Dolinar, courtesy of the Kranj Tourist Board

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looked like. On the ground floor there is well-stocked gift TRADITIONAL Museums & Galleries shop and temporary exhibition space. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Prešeren Memorial Museum Prešernova Ulica 7, tel. Closed Mon. Admission €2.30 adults, €1.70 children/seniors, +386 (0)4 201 39 83, www.gorenjski-muzej.si. In a town €4.20 families. EVENTS where the great Slovene poet France Prešeren is revered unlike any other, this unassuming 17th-century house on the Prešeren Prize Winners Gallery Glavni Trg 18, tel. street that now bears his name can be considered ground +386 (0)4 202 57 16, [email protected], www.gpn.kranj.si. Numerous carnivals are among the largest traditional zero, as it’s where he lived and practiced law from 1846 Since 1947 the Prešeren Awards have been given to Slove- events in winter time, Prešeren Fair in Kranj in Febru- until his untimely death in 1849. In a restored apartment nia’s leading artists on the national day of culture, which is on on the first floor there is a small exhibition dedicated to his 8 February in commemoration of the great poet’s death, and ary, the Alpine Night in Bled in May, Potato Day in life and work, including some pieces of period furniture as are considered the highest national honour in the field of the Šenčur and Historial - History festival in Škofja Loka well as several of Prešeren’s original works. Perhaps most arts. Some 140 works by past winners of the so-called Grand in June, Lacework Days in Železniki and Bled Night in interesting to the non-Prešeren enthusiast is the large case Prešeren Award (give to two artists) and the Prešeren Fund of books adorned with very disparate images of the poet, a Award, also known as the ‘Small Prešeren Award’, (given to Bled in July, Shoemaker’s Sunday in Tržič in Septem- testament to the fact that no portraits of him were produced up to six artists) are on display here at the municipal gallery ber, Evenings of Avsenik music in Begunje na Goren- during his lifetime, meaning no one is exactly sure what he located in the labyrinthine 16th-century Pavšlar House. The premises themselves are almost as interesting as the award- jskem, Kekec Days event for children in Kranjska winning artwork, with original frescoes, exposed wooden Gora, several New Years’ Eve celebrations in the open Brdo Pri Kranju Renaissance ceilings, clay brick floors and numerous other architectural embellishments. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat and other events. The largest events in the Slovenian 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Alps are international sports competitions: the Vitranc Cup in Kranjska Gora, ski jumps in Planica, biathlon Town Hall Glavni Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)4 201 39 80, www.gorenjski-muzej.si. Located on the southern side world cup races in Pokljuka, rowing regattas in Bled, of the Glavni Trg is Kranj’s former town hall, which from the telemark in Bohinj. The Gorenjska region invites you exterior still resembles the two separate buildings that were joined to form it: the white 16th-century Gothic structure with several international festivals, such as the Bled with its distinctive clock tower and the yellow 17th-century Festival with classic music, the Okarina Bled Festival aristocratic mansion. Inside the premises there is a veritable treasure trove of art works and archaeological finds, with the with ethno music or the Old Music Festival Radovljica. most space devoted to three permanent exhibitions. On the The Wild Flower Festival takes place in Bohinj in the ground floor is a collection of more than 50 smaller sculptures and prints by the sculptor Lojze Dolinar. Much of the building’s spring, while in the summer Kranj hosts numerous fes- first floor is used to present the so-called Iron Thread exhibi- tivals: the Carniola Festival, Jazz Kamp and Kranfest Brdo Castle & Park Predoslje 39, tel. +386 (0)4 tion, which includes an impressive collection of finds from the with Kranj Night. 260 15 01/+386 (0)4 202 15 51, [email protected], Palaeolithic period up until late Antiquity and the Romans, www.brdo.si. One of the grandest estates in all of while entire second floor houses countless pieces of folk art Slovenia, Brdo Castle was originally built at the beginning from the Gorenjska region. Those interested in visiting the Every year in May, Tržič hosts the International Days of of the 16th century by Habsburg nobleman Georg Egkh, ossuary can also make arrangements to do so here. QOpen and in the past five centuries has been home to several 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2.30 adults, €1.70 Minerals, Fossils and Environment - MINFOS, which powerful owners including the Zois family and the last children/seniors, €4.20 families. is considered as one of the largest events of its kind in monarchs of Serbia. In more recent history, the estate served as one of the favourite residences of Yugoslav Europe. The ethnographically interesting and enter- leader Josip Broz Tito and also famously hosted the first Around Kranj taining Blacksmith Holiday in Kropa in July, the Sheep meeting between the then newly elected presidents of In addition to it’s beautiful setting below the hills and the United States and Russia, George Bush and Vladimir mountains rising to the north, the countryside around Ball in Jezersko in August and the Cow Ball in Bohinj Putin. In 2008 a modern conference centre was built Kranj is full of well-marked paths for walking, hiking and in September remind of old customs. From May to to accommodate the numerous high-level events that cycling through nature. Enquire at the tourist office for September villages and towns in the Slovenian Alps were held during Slovenia’s six-month Presidency of the more specific info and dedicated maps of the area. Council of the EU. come to life with fire-fighter’s Depending on visitors’ interests, the most impressive parties which are organized by site at Brdo is either the magnificent grounds or Brdo Castle. In addition to its amazing location at the foothills fire-fighter associations and of- of the Alps, the estate is criss-crossed with pathways fer relaxed socialising for locals, that wind through pastures and gardens, around several lakes and through a large forested area. Meanwhile in the where guests are also welcome. middle of it all sits the indelible castle. Modest in size and In 2015 more than a thou- with an unembellished façade, the interior stands in stark contrast, as it was completely renovated and refurnished sand performers in the streets after WWII to reflect the tastes of Tito, and has been left of Škofja Loka will stage again largely unchanged since his death in 1980, offering an the grandiose Škofja Loka Pas- intimate look into the life and times of one of the larger than life figures of the 20th century. For us the highlights sion Play, the oldest Slovenian include the display of gifts that Tito received from foreign dramatic text. heads of state (such as a 14th-century ivory chest from North Korean leader Kim Il-Sung), an original copy of the You are warmly welcome! Dalmatin Bible, countless paintings from the collection of the National Gallery, and of course the stories that tie everything together. Explore the lush green countryside around Kranj, courtesy of the Kranj Tourist Board

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Traditional Events in Kranjska Gora History March Kranjska Gora was first formed when inhabitants started Vitranc Cup (Pokal Vitranc) Podkoren. Aside from clearing the forests to make space for farm land and Planica, the Vitranc world cup event (Pokal Vitranc) is what pastures back in the second half of the 14th century. brings the international crowd to Kranjska Gora; it is the place A railroad was built in 1874, after which Kranjska Gora be- to be for one weekend in March, when skiers from the world’s gan to develop as a famed tourist destination, providing competitive winter sports nations gather and compete. Sla- convenient access to the nearby mountains, forests and lom and giant slalom world cup races are held on the slopes valleys. The town gained further significance following above the town, and the day is rounded off with concerts World War I, when Russian prisoners constructed a road and other entertainment at the foot of the Kranjska Gora ski passing over the 1611m Vršič highlands, and connecting slopes, courtesy of the presently named ‘Q-Max Party’. the Sava to Soča valleys. Blossoming tourist activity in the Kranjska Gora region arose when the first cable cars were built on the sides of May the Vitranc at the end of the 1950s, on which ski jumping Gathering of the Horsemen Planica. Bear witness and ski flying became increasingly popular. to an event taking place only triennially in Slovenia: The Kranjska Gora and its position on the tri-border be- gathering of horsemen. Also consisting of riders from tween Slovenia, Austria and Italy certainly boosted its Austria and Italy, this event alternates between those achievement. For tourists, the region of Kranjska Gora three countries every year. Ever since Slovenia’s addition particularly represents an excellent combination of a to the European Union, the this spectacle has become cosmopolitan tourist village and idyllic serenity in its sur- an annual tradition. roundings. Kranjska Gora is the cultural and social centre of the region, and also known as the alpine heart. June Kekec Festival Kranjska Gora. Celebrate one of Slovenia’s cultural icons! The Kekec festival takes place August in the second week of the summer school holidays with a Aljaž Days Dovje, Mojstrana & Valley Vrata. The Aljaž rich and interesting programme of events and activities Days, in remembrance of Dovje’s most celebrated former for the entire family, at the centre of which are the fairytale resident, happens over a weekend in late summer, with a heroes created by Josip Vandot, who provide plenty of programme including exhibitions at the Alpine museum, a Kranjska Gora in winter, photo by Matej Vranič courtesy of Picture Slovenia amusement for all. hike to one of the village’s hills, cultural evenings, concerts In addition to appearances by children’s dance and folklore and a holy Mass. groups and performances by well-known Slovenian musi- People from the Gorenjska region are known as being By Car cians, there are also the following activities: sport and Village Day in Rateče Rateče. At this festive summer the most frugal Slovenes, to put it politely. It isn’t hard to To get to Kranjska Gora by car from Ljubljana take the entertainment (eg cycling, leisurely strolls, rollerblading, event locals put on their regional national costumes, several believe, though, since life has always been a struggle in the A2 motorway towards Kranj and Jesenice. Pass Kranj climbing lessons for kids, swimming, archery, mystery of which are over one hundred years-old, and are more than harsh winters of the rugged mountains. While not consid- and continue in the direction of Jesenice. Once there you tours, golf), trips in the countryside (a visit to the Land of happy to show them off to tourists and visitors. The pre- ered very outgoing or extroverted, the locals will warm up to will see signs for Kranjska Gora. But be careful, if you Draws, On the Trail of Triglav, Kekec Land) and workshops sentation of how original Rateče slippers known as žoki are you once you’ve won them over. One way you can do that is miss the exit, you’ll end up driving through the 8km-long (pottery, t-shirt designing). produced is especially interesting. The eager villagers dem- by showing them your prowess on the slopes or by enjoying Karawanken Tunnel into Austria! After exiting in Jesenice, onstrate the complete procedure of how wool is processed a shot of a local’s homemade schnapps. Remember to continue following the signs for Kranjska Gora. The short and žoki are made. always look people in the eyes when saying ‘Na zdravje’! drive from there is entirely on a two-lane road. The whole July Kranjska Gora is, not surprisingly, famous for its skiing journey should take around an hour. Russian Weekend Kranjska Gora. Every year, Kranjska and other winter sports. People from the area are often Gora pays tribute to the hundreds of Russian soldiers who September excellent skiers, as parents have their kids racing down the perished in a merciless avalanche while constructing a road Ascent of Vršič Kranjska Gora. A cycling event which toughest runs as soon as they learn how to walk. Slovenia’s over the mountain Vršič during WWI, with the highest repre- makes the most of the colossal pass which winds its way professional skiers have enjoyed a significant amount of Tourist Information sentatives of both the Russian Federation and Slovenia in 12km up into the Julian Alps from Kranjska Gora, the Assault success in World Cup and Olympic competitions and most attendance. The past few years have seen performances on Vršič brings together more than a thousand brave souls of them hail from Gorenjska. The Vitranc World Cup and the Kranjska Gora Tourist Information Centre by Cossacks, a Chamber Choir and Slovene Octet, and who are willing to take on the steep slope and many bends, annual ski flying event in nearby Planica bring thousands of Kolodvorska 1c, tel. +386 (0)4 580 94 40, fax organisers never seem to run out of heart-warming ways to the first Saturday every September. spectators to Kranjska Gora, turning it into the party capital +386 (0)4 580 94 41, [email protected], commemorate this tragic event. of Slovenia, at least for a weekend or two. www.kranjska-gora.si. Q High season: Open 08:00- Hike to the Tri-Border Rateče. Every second Sunday in 19:00/20:00. Low season: Open 08:00-15:00, Sat September sees Slovenes (alliteration unintended there), Ital- 09:00-16:00. Closed Sun. July - August ians and Austrians all ascend the slopes of Peč to meet at the Arriving Summer Under Mt Vitranc Kranjska Gora. Vitranc is tri-border peak for various ceremonies and celebrations. By Train Dovje-Mojstrana Tourist Office Savska 1, one of the steepest slopes the country has to offer, and is There isn’t a train that takes you all the way to Kranjska Mojstrana, tel./fax +386 (0)4 589 13 20, info@ located in the Kranjska Gora ski resort. It is at the foot of Gora from Ljubljana, but if you have a rail pass you want mojstrana.com, www.mojstrana.com. Q From 20 this slope, where you are most welcome to an assortment October to take advantage of, it is possible to travel by train to June to 30 Sept open Mon-Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00- of spectacular weekly summer events including concerts, Lavtižar Days Kranjska Gora. This is a traditional annual Jesenice and then catch a bus the rest of the way. 14:00. From 1 Oct to 19 June open Sat 09:00-13:00, theatre and other delightful forms of entertainment. All this event organised to take place in late autumn in memory of Sun 09:00-12:00. will take place in the square in front of the church from July Josip Lavtižar, a local writer, composer, travel journalist and to August. The aim of the events is to provide additional priest. The event is based on the ethic followed by Lavtižar By Bus Rateče-Planica Tourist Office Rateče 22, entertainment to long-stay guests in Kranjska Gora as well throughout his life: to promote, to the best of one’s ability, Buses from Ljubljana leave once an hour throughout most Rateče-Planica, tel./fax +386 (0)4 587 60 41, as locals. the development of the Zgornjesavska valley. of the day. The trip takes exactly two hours and lets you [email protected], www.ratece-planica.si. The Lavtižar Days are devoted to two ideas: cultural events are soak up the amazing Alpine scenery. The bus drops you Q Open Mon & Thur 07:00-15:00, Wed 07:00-17:00, Fri organised to add to the many other events in the area, whilst the off in Kranjska Gora, a five-minute walk from the main 07:00-13:00. Closed Tues, Sat, Sun and holidays. www.inyourpocket.com other goal is to promote dialogue on topical problems. The event is square. A one-way trip cost around €8. organised by a local cultural association named after Lavtižar.

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Merrily to Kranjska Gora Kranjska Gora. An annual meeting of Alpine folk music bands (narodno zabavni ansam- Where to stay bli), not only from Slovenia but from Austria, Italy and Ger- A massive range and capacity, just as well, given the many. Smiles abound, this is sure to be among the merriest of thousands of guests who flock here both during the festivals, essential for getting into the rural party spirit. winter and summer seasons. If you’re looking for luxury you’ll not be disappointed; several upmarket hotels offer lots of fancy facilities. The wealth in the area can (at November - December least a small part) be attributed to the relentless influx Running of the Parkeljni (Bogeymen) Podkoren. of casino goers at weekends and during holidays. At the This tradition spans the whole of Slovenia, and sees wild opposite end of the price spectrum there are two hos- bogeymen run amok at the start of Advent. They can be tels, and plenty in between. The only things lacking are appeased with sweet things or gifts of schnapps, but, as camp-sites, but with snow covering the valley for four they say, don’t get too close, because they’re gentle touch months of the year, it’s not difficult to understand why. can leave black stains on your clothes!. In this corner of the country, the parkeljni also come from Austria and Italy, to wreak havoc. Upmarket Kompas P-2, Borovška 100, tel. +386 (0)4 588 44 77/+386 (0)4 589 21 00, fax +386 (0)4 588 44 December 79, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. New Year’s Celebration Kranjska Gora. What better From all the hotels that belong to the Hit Group in the way to see in the new year than to gather on the town square region this is easily the best one. The hotel offers all the and dance to live music until midnight. Needless to say a drop amenities you expect from a four-star hotel, including a of fine wine is bound to come into the equation! swimming pool, saunas and a beautiful restaurant that specialises in Slovenian food. If that’s not enough for you, you have free entrance to the Larix Wellness Centre and December - January a very complete gym, both located close to the hotel. If Live Christmas Crib on Ice Mojstrana. Come Christ- you come with your significant other, make sure you ask At 2864m the peak of Mt Triglav is Slovenia’s highest point, photo by Valentin Štular courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora mas-time, the nativity is performed amidst the frozen water- for the ‘romantic’ room where you’ll get, you guessed it, a falls of Mlačca Del in Mojstrana (near Kranjska Gora). water bed! Q 149 rooms (prices depend on occupancy). PTHARUGKDCW hhhh for a small fee and make use of the sauna and solarium. tooth-check up all under one roof! Rooms are neat, tidy You can even recuperate at the pool and wellness centre at and modernly equipped and superbly priced all year round. Planica Larix P-3, Borovška 99, tel. +386 (0)4 588 44 the neighbouring hotel for no additional fee. The restaurant The location is central without being too noisy, set only 77/+386 (0)4 588 41 00, fax +386 (0)4 588 44 70, provides a satisfactory menu of international and Slovene a hundred metres away from the swarms of people on Planica is actually busy all year, the village of Rateče under- [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. An dishes in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Head to the the skiing resort and the main promenade. The on-site going a certain level of ongoing preparation, to be ready for excellent hotel with first-rate facilities and a large casino, cocktail bar on the summer terrace for a romantic evening restaurant has a cheerful and personal atmosphere. its time to shine every March, and the onslaught of 50,000 rooms overlook the ski resort, and the in-house restaurant escape. Q 99 rooms, 6 family rooms. PTALGB� God forbid, you’ll get a tooth-ache during your stay, but people. Being amongst dramatic alpine peaks soaring over offers some classic Slovenian dishes. In the back of the KDX hhh the owner who is a qualified dentist has a well-equipped 2000m, it’s the only kind of setting worthy of such an inter- hotel, you can enjoy summer and winter nights along the dentist’s surgery on location. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. 12 nationally prestigious ski event. As such, records have been Snežna Plaža, or Snowy Beach, and enjoy the beautiful Grand Hotel Prisank R-3/4, Borovška 93, tel. +386 rooms, 2 apartments (B&B €41-65, half board €56-79). made and broken here since all the way back in 1934. views of the mountains and ski slopes. At night, it’s a per- (0)4 588 44 77/+386 (0)4 588 48 20, fax +386 (0)4 PTJVGBKXS Home to the annual FIS Ski Flying World Cup event, the fect romantic location under a clear and starry sky. During 588 44 79, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg. backdrop of the valley here is magnificent. Awesome the day, you can select a Wellness programme if you feel si. This hotel provides guests with the comforts typical of four- rugged peaks tower all around; formed by a glacier like some pampering and even take advantage of the hotel’s star hotels. Being only 100m from the skiing slopes and along Apartments some 20,000 years ago. The jump itself comprises own water park. Overall, Hotel Larix promises a cosy and the main promenade you have the best of both worlds. You Center Apartments Borovška 88a, tel. +386 (0)4 a fearsomely large and heart-stoppingly steep slope, restful holiday. Q 118 rooms. POTJHAFLG� can opt for rooms that suit your fancy; some balconies that 588 14 70, fax +386 (0)4 588 47 81, apartmaji@ stuff only for professional ski fliers, which has produced BKDXCW hhhh look onto the mountains and the skii slopes, while others face intersport-bernik.com, www.apartment-kranjskagora. countless world records going all the way back to the the hustle and bustle of Kranjska Gora’s main promenade. A com. Being part of the Intersport Bernik agency, guests 1960s. In 2005, the Norwegian Bjørn Einar Romøren Špik Jezerci 21, Gozd Martuljek, tel. +386 (0)4 587 lovely buffet breakfast is included in the price. Q 110 rooms. staying at one of the two apartments here get favourable set a new world record of 239m, which stood for some 71 00, fax +386 (0)4 588 44 79, info@hitholidays-kg. PTJHAULBKXW hhhh discounts on ski rental. Located just 100m from the ski six years before finally being broken by one of his fellow si, www.hitholidays-kg.si. Fully renovated in 2013, Hotel resort and cross-country ski trail, the Center Apartments countryman in Norway in 2011. Špik has already found the favour of countless guests, and Kotnik S-3, Borovška 75, tel. +386 (0)4 588 15 are exactly that, in the centre! In the summertime they is undoubtedly the current hot property in town. With both 64/+386 (0)41 671 980, fax +386 (0)4 588 18 59, make a good base for active holidays, and when the three- and four-star accommodation, a wellness centre [email protected], www.hotel-kotnik.si. Although day’s cycling, mountaineering or nordic walking is done, and water park, it definitely appeals to many, including undoubtedly high-quality, Kotnik retains a personal, homey you’re just a step away from the town’s restaurants and ourselves. Its supposedly sustainable character can in touch. It’s a bright yellow family-run establishment, also bars. TJ6 part be attested to by the use of local materials in its housing a restaurant and the oldest pizzeria in Gorenjska. construction, and aesthetically unobtrusive appearance. We like that the staff describe themselves as kind and Hiša Aktivnega Oddiha (House of the Active There is a lot of natural light inside, including in its three welcoming. The latter also applies to the rooms, with warm Break) Borovška 88a, tel. +386 (0)31 65 81 71, fax conference halls (the largest accommodating up to 170 colours and plant-life, there’s not a hint of cold minimalist +386 (0)45 88 47 81, apartmaji@intersport-bernik. guests). Špik is ideal for a relaxing break in aid of a special chic. The amenities are well-taken care of as well, with SAT com, www.apartment-kranjskagora.com. One of three occasion. hhhh TV, wireless internet, a minibar and safe coming standard. apartment buildings offered by Intersport Bernik in the Located on the busy high street in the centre of Kranjska centre of Kranjska Gora, the inspirationally named House Gora. Q 15 rooms (singles €55-65, doubles €70-90). of the Active Break is attractive, newly built and themed Mid-Range PJALGBKXS hhhh according to the surrounding valleys, bodies of beautiful Alpina P-4, Vitranška 12, tel. +386 (0)4 589 31 water and towering mountains, the latter naturally in the 00/+386 (0)4 588 44 77, fax +386 (0)4 589 30 attic. The so-called multi-purpose room means that those 51, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. Budget looking to socialise, just hangout with their own crowd in Norway is well-represented both at the competition Perched 100m up the slope, this lovely alpine hotel is Miklič P-4, Vitranška 13, tel. +386 (0)4 588 16 35, a more open space, or have a small meeting, can do so in itself and the after-parties, photo by YMB great for families who want the ski slopes and forest at fax +386 (0)4 588 16 34, [email protected], comfort. Also suitable for couples, or single travellers not on their doorstep. All guests can rent bikes, play table tennis www.hotelmiklic.com. A place to sleep, eat and get a a tight budget. Q 28 beds. TJHA6LBW

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Josip Vandot. A 5% discount can be yours, on the ski school, rental services, night sledding, or indeed after party drinks Cafés at the snack bar! Café Sport Point Borovška 93a, tel. +386 (0)4 588 48 82, fax +386 (0)45 88 48 81, kavarna@ International sport-point.si, www.sport-point.si. If you need Gostilna Oštarija R-3/4, Borovška 93, tel. +386 (0)4 anything to get up on the slopes or trails, this café bar 588 48 36, fax +386 (0)4 588 44 70, info@hitholidays- has a shop that sells and rents boots, skis, snowboards kg.si, www.hitholidays-kg.si. Oštarija is a fabulous hang- and poles, and stocks the top brands. It’s directly in out both day and night. It is situated directly on the Snežna the vicinity of the ski resort and behind the Hotel Larix, Plaža, or Snowy Beach, and it’s a perfect retreat after being and it also offers a resting point for skiers. Usually, out on the slopes all day. The waiters offer refreshments and it’s always packed and busy during the winter period. hot meals around the clock. The place is always buzzing with QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. July, August open till 22:00. ski school students, children playing at the playground and TYAULGBKW also pension guests at the inn itself, so the place barely sleeps. On a warm summer’s day, people sit out on the ter- Kavarna London Borovška 93, tel. +386 (0)4 588 race and make their own picnic and frequently enough you 48 20, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg. can catch some entertainers, shows or concerts. QOpen si. London is grand, as is this café whose inspiration 09:00 - 22:00. PTA6ULEGBKXS was the English capital. Sink into one of the super-soft armchairs, indulge in a huge slice of cake, then read the Penzion Lipa Koroška 14, tel. +386 (0)4 582 00 00, newspaper or look out through full length windows upon [email protected], www.penzion-lipa.si. The first eatery the main street. It’s perfect for cold and blustery winter you see when stepping off a bus in Kranjska Gora, Penzion afternoons, looking like your granny’s living room, the Lipa is a great place to get a quick, piping-hot pizza. The dining front opens up to create a summer terrace too. Given area is divided into two floors, with the pizzeria in the bright that the London is attached to the classy Prisank Grand atrium on the ground floor and the restaurant downstairs. The Hotel the prices remain surprisingly reasonable. QOpen cuisine is a combination of French, Italian and Slovene, and the 07:00 - 23:00. PTJRUILGBS specialty of the house is the four- to five-course degustation menu, which features whatever meat and fish is freshest at the time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. AGK Restavracija Vila Roza Dovje 127c, Mojstrana, tel. +386 (0)4 58 95 25 0, [email protected], The beautiful Jasna Lake is just one of the many amazing natural sights around Kranjska Gora, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy Restavracija Kotnik Borovška 75, tel. +386 (0)4 www.villaroza.com. The ‘pink villa restaurant’ is not half of Picture Slovenia 58 81 564/+386 (0)41 671 980, restavracija@hotel- as gaudy as it sounds. Actually subtle and tasteful, it has kotnik.si, hotel-kotnik.si. Somewhat strange is their policy little touches of pink: candles, fresh roses and tablecloths, Hiša Neža Smerinje 4, tel./fax +386 (0)83 87 87 Where to eat of keeping restaurant and pizzeria separate, the latter being not a Barbie doll anywhere to be seen! And the cuisine, well, 26, [email protected], www.hisaneza.si. Experience the Traditional food in these parts is hearty, Austrian-style fare. sidelined to the wooden-cabin extension. Otherwise this its food is fit for a critic, easily some of the best you can get wonders of the Julian Alps with invigorating activities such as Sausages and thick slabs of pork are usually served with warm and welcoming inn provides good fresh fare in rustic in Kranjska Gora. Attention to detail continues throughout, mountain biking, horse riding, rafting, and much more. sauerkraut and potatoes with pancakes or apple strudel surroundings, although we don’t know what to make of the with lots of marble, teak wood and an appropriately romantic To make things easier and even more delightful, thoughtfully for dessert. In order to brace yourself before heading out unconventionally served Goulash; on a plate with a knife and soundtrack. The place to bring your girlfriend, prospective furnished Hiša Neža offers various services, making your stay into the cold, it isn’t unusual to have a strong drink to finish fork! On the plus side it has a menu in English, which is notably wife, or indeed the kids (for the special kids menu). Located fall nothing short of excellent. A horse-drawn carriage ride off your meal. For the true Gorenjska experience, try the only common in the town centre. Also good are the rooms, 6km east of Kranjska Gora, beside the main road. QOpen through Kranjska Gora, masseurs and masseuses available, blueberry brandy locals call borovničevec. from an agreeable €34 per person. Q Pizzeria open 12:00- 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Wed. PALBW child care, just to name a few. With all this (and much more) 23:00, Restaurant open 11:00-22:00. PJAUBW available, you are sure to forget your troubles! Q 5 apart- ments, €110-180. Discounts available outside of the high Chinese Pizza season. PTJALDW Šang Hai T-2, Naselje Slavka Černeta 34, tel. +386 Pizzeria Napoli Borovška 93, tel. +386 (0)4 588 48 (0)45 88 13 46, [email protected], www. 20, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. This Smučišče Apartments Borovška 88a, tel. +386 (0)45 sanghai-restavracija.com. The one and only Chinese Res- small pizzeria, adjoined to the Hotel Prisank serves up cheap 88 14 70/+386 (0)45 88 47 81, apartmaji@intersport- taurant in Kranjska Gora features an array of standard dishes and tasty Italian food. It’s got a lovely little terrace which in- bernik.com, www.apartment-kranjskagora.com. Groups at premium prices. It’s hidden within the shopping complex on tegrates itself with several other small cafés and bars along wanting to stay together for a reasonable price are well-suited Slavka Černeta Square, but you can’t miss it due to its conven- the main promenade. The pizzas (prepared in a wood-fired to this pair of large apartments by the Dolenčev Rut ski lift, tional Chinese décor: bamboo, china dolls, dragons and hang- oven), pastas and salads are consistently well-prepared and right on the slopes. Each apartment has three bedrooms, a ing lanterns. The staff are extremely polite, and surprisingly of high-quality. You might wish to continue your evening in the spacious living room and bathroom, with free use of the barbe- good speak English well, unlike some Chinese establishments. nearby Pub Legende or move to a nice cup of coffee at Kavarna cue in the summer. Those on a budget will be pleased to hear QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJAULGKS London. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. PTJAULGB about the generous 40% discount on bike rental (plus various others connected with the owner, Intersport), the apartments being right on the cycle main route to Rateče, Planica, Tarvisio Fast food Slovenian (IT) and the Belopeška lakes. Book early for winter ski holidays Pekarna Planika Borovška 54, tel. +386 (0)51 383 Gostilna Frida Rateče 97a, Rateče-Planica, tel. +386 here. Q €15-20 per person. TJA6LW 328, pekarna-planika.si. Always welcome when the mid- (0)4 587 60 51, [email protected], www.gostil- morning munchies comes a calling, the humble bakery can nafrida.com. This large restaurant lies on the main road Vitranc Apartments Borovška 93, tel. +386 (0)4 588 also be found in Kranjska Gora. Be it fresh bread, pastries, or between Planica and Italy (a few kilometres west of Kranjska 48 20/+386 (0)4 588 44 77, fax +386 (0)4 588 44 79, a slice of cake, there’s only a stroll down Kranjska Gora’s main Gora). The deserted Italian and Austrian borders are merely [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. A sizeable thoroughfare required to fill that hole.QOpen 06:30 - 14:30, de jure boundaries these days, the whole area a heady mix and attractive block of holiday apartments located just 50m Sat 06:30 - 12:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. of Slavic, Germanic and Romanic influences and people. Fit- from the ski slopes, the typical alpine-looking Vitranc is a tingly the menu we got was in Slovene, German and Italian, good option for those wanting to be in the thick of the action. Snack Bar Lačni Kekec Smerinje 11, tel. +386 (0)41 A typical dish of the region, Rateški krapi are delicious but not English. The fusion of influences continues with the Simple and clean, the accommodation is classed as three 36 72 11, [email protected]. Part of the Kekec ski ravioli-like dumplings made from potato dough and stuffed cuisine and the building itself; it’s also a pizzeria, and the star, and you get your own kitchen with refrigerator, plus the school, Lačni Kekec (Hungry Kekec) is a snack bar of the with a variety of either savoury or sweet fillings, photo décor inside is purely alpine. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed apartments (sleeping up to four) have balconies. same theme, namely the local boy hero Kekec, created by courtesy of BTB Mon. PUN

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Gostilna pri Žerjavu Rateče 39, tel. +386 (0)4 587 Kekec 60 26, [email protected], www.prizerjavu.si. What to see Slovenian Alpine Museum Gorishly quirky would be an appropriate description of this By virtue of the fact that Kranjska Gora borders Triglav alpine guest house. The walls of the bar room are adorned National Park and is close to heart of the Julian Alps, Slovenian Alpine Museum (Slovenski Plan- with figurines in traditional dress, the horns of mountain there is incredible and abundant natural beauty all inski Muzej) Triglavska 49, Mojstrana, tel. +386 goats and deer, fish and stuffed birds. The restaurant is around it. Whether you’re looking for snow capped (0)8 380 67 30, [email protected], www. cosy with a wide choice and the bar is well stocked.They peaks and slopes in the winter, or unspoiled alpine planinskimuzej.si. Perhaps the most popular pass- have six rooms available, starting at a pretty cheap €19.50 lakes and lush forest in the summer, the wonderful time in Slovenia of course deserves to be documented per person. Positioned in the village of Rateče, very close sights around Kranjska Gora will amaze and enchant. and presented in museum fashion, the tradition of to Planica. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Breakfast from 08:00. mountaineering finding its place in the hometown of AUB many famous national sportsmen and sportswomen, Culture Mojstrana. Housed in a building which performs the Ambrožič House Mojstrana. The once mighty house of unusual feat of combining modern architecture with a Nightlife renowned beekeeper Mihael Ambrožič (1864-1904) certainly natural theme (it’s shaped like a huge rock), you’ll find A sleepy village-like vibe is inevitable for about half the has historical value. A long structure which incorporated a an old mountaineering equipment on display, safety and year here. However, in ski season from December to barn and shed, bridge and mill, an arch connecting the two rescue equipment, an interactive display on protected March, and in July and August, it’s much more lively and parts; there are decorated tiles with the places the said mountain flora, legends, and also a storm simulator - in happening. After an active day outdoors, be it hiking beekeeper gained international repute. Have a look at the which your senses are bombarded while sitting in a mock Photo by Klemen Gričar courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora Triglav in summer or skiing in winter, Kranjska Gora offers house, reaching it by heading towards the Vrata valley from mountain hut. There is a lot of information in English plenty of options in the compact centre. Note that most of the junction in the middle of Mojstrana. (including the interactive displays), and also up to date The best known Slovenian children’s hero happens to the lively venues line Borovška Cesta and Tičarjeva Ulica. information on weather conditions/open mountain huts be a shepherd boy, whose cunning and quest for justice Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Triglav National Park. Q Open 09:00-19:00 (May- in the mountains around Kranjska Gora gets him into all Borovška 76, Kranjska Gora, tel. +386 (0)45 80 94 40. Sept), 09:00-17:00 (Oct-Apr). Admission €6 for adults, kinds of problems, but whose bravery and intelligence get Pubs Said to have been built in the earliest days of Kranjska Gora, €3.60 children, €13 families. him safely out of. Pub Legende R-3/4, Borovška 93, tel. +386 (0)4588 the original church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is only Kekec (pronounced: kay-kats) runs into various other charac- 44 27, [email protected], www.hitholidays-kg.si. attested by the original Romanesque-style bell tower. The ters of the wilderness on his adventures, originally in several The attention to detail in this English themed pub is impres- late Gothic period saw the rest of the existing built (1510), architectural element with the typical farmhouse layout of books (1918-1924) by the Slovene writer and poet, Josip sive. You’ll find regal old brass lamps, a newspaper rack, two in which can be seen a Carinthian influence. living room with small room, hall with black kitchen and gra- Vandot, and later three films (1951, 1963 and 1968). English billiards tables and an imposingly large London clock nary. Notable original features include the front doors, pantry While in Kranjska Gora, children can take a two hour behind the bar. There’s even an electronic dartboard in one Kajžnk House (Kajžnkova Hiša) Rateče 43, Rateče- and black kitchen doors, a fresco of St Florian and a pretty adventure into the mountains, meeting the boy and his corner of this spacious establishment. They have a large Planica, tel. +386 (0)4 587 61 48, www.gornjesavs- sundial on the southern wall. Situated near the Planica ski companions, including the wicked Bedanc (an evil poacher), selection of reasonably priced beer. Situated downstairs in kimuzej.si. The former residence of a moderately well off jump. Q Open Tues-Sat 10:00-18:00 (May-Oct), 10:00-16:00 mysterious wild mountain woman Pehta, gentle Mojca the same block as Kavarna London. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. farm, the Kajžnk House underwent a long renovation which (Nov-Apr). Closed Sun-Mon and holidays. Admission €2.50 for and Kekec’s friend, a scared boy named Rožle, not to PJULEGW ended in 2004 and turned it into a preserved 19th-century adults, €2 children, €6 families. mention the goodie Brincelj, whose drawbridge trap set for Bedanc is the subject of much humour. The trip takes Vopa Pub R-3, Borovška 92, tel. +386 (0)41 840 806, place at 16:00 every Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday [email protected]. The place to party in Kranjska Gora. (and on Sunday at 10:00) in July and August, the Bedanc Open until the wee hours at weekends during ski season, this bus leaving from the Julijana tourist agency, who you should pub-disco combo has earned its reputation for being the best contact for bookings (+386 51 62 37 01). place to shake it till dawn after a day on the slopes. The tiny Otherwise, there’s always the Kekec Festival in June (see disco has cheap drinks, an indoor smoking room and plays events), when the whole town goes Kekec crazy. Just different styles of music every night, with live bands on Fri- remember, if you can’t find him, you just need to shout days. In the pub, skiers taking a break sit at large picnic-style louder: Keee- keeeeeeec! tables while couples reading newspapers relax in comfortable armchairs. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PJAULBW

Gostilna Jožica Zgornje Rute 51, Gozd Martuljek, tel. +386 (0)4 588 01 26/+386 (0)41 62 05 25, info@ Casinos gostilnajozica.si, www.gostilna-jozica.si. This maze of Casino Korona S/T-4, Vršiška 23, tel. +386 (0)4 587 an eatery (also with rooms available) is typically Slovenian. 80 00, fax +386 (0)4 588 13 22, marketing.korona@hit. Conventional artefacts hang from the ceiling and walls, includ- si, www.hit.si. The choice of casinos in the town is limited to ing dried sweet-corns and wooden wine barrels. Drink a coffee two main establishments, which are wildly popular with Italian or beer on the indoor terrace at the front, or meander through tourists. Korona is the only casino in Kranjska Gora where you several pine clad rooms to discover an open, south-facing can play live table games. It also has slot machines, bingo terrace. The menu comprises a wide range of meat and fish every evening, a poker room and concerts/events every Friday dishes, and they also serve massive rustic pizzas (even if you and Saturday. Q Free admission. POAG order a small), to eat-in or take away. Located 3km east of Kranjska Gora. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. TABW Casino Larix Borovška 99, tel. +386 (0)45 88 47 18, fax +386 (0)45 88 47 1, [email protected], www. Gostilna pri Rudiju Log 12b, tel. +386 (0)4 58 85 casino-larix.com. A synonym for hospitality and entertain- 74 0. The atmosphere of an evening is positively jovial; it ment, if you like gambling you can do so at Larix 24 hours attracts big groups of merry locals for dinner, the huge plat- a day every day of the year. With 184 slot machines, two ters look sumptuous. There’s the customary (in these parts) electronic roulette games, both mega- and mini-bingo and ski memorabilia hanging from the walls and ceiling, including regular prize contests there’s always something new to try. autographed portraits and skis of Slovenian winter-sports Sporting events are shown, and when it all becomes too heroes. The menu’s pretty standard; entree, fish or meat with much, there’s the piano bar to forget your losses or celebrate or without sauce, potatoes etc. and a selection of desserts. your winnings, the likes of Diana Ross adding to a list of well By the main road on the eastern outskirts of Kranjska Gora. known Slovene musicians to have graced the place with QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. AUB their presence. A The Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana is a must-see for mountain enthusiasts, photo courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora

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Monument of Jakob Aljaž Not only a Roman Catholic Liznjek House (Liznjekova Hiša) Borovška 63, priest, but a composer and mountaineer, the achievements Kranjska Gora, tel. +386 (0)4 588 19 99, www.gornje- Triglav National Park of Jakob Aljaž place the man firmly in the history of the savskimuzej.si. Incredibly important in rural architectural Slovene people as a key figure. His most notable namesake terms, Liznjekova House was at the cutting edge in its time, Triglav National Park, is the tower, Aljažev Stolp, on top of the country’s highest and is preserved as an ethnographic museum in the centre the only one of its kind mountain, Triglav. Not only that, but many mountain huts of Kranjska Gora. More than 300 years-old, the wooden part in Slovenia, covers only across the Julian Alps can be attributed to him, helping to dates back to the second half of the 17th century, a Baroque 4% of the landmass, cultivate a national love for hiking which can be seen to brick room added during the 18th century. Later many others yet what a spectacular this day. Triglav as a centrepiece of the Slovene identity followed the farmhouse’s layout; barn in the cellar, a brick proportion it is. Locat- comes partly from his composition of the poem, Oj Triglav, ground floor and wooden living room, black kitchen, two small ed in the southeast- moj dom (Oh Triglav, my home), and Aljaž was responsible bedrooms, a hall and a heavy wooden pillar over the entrance. ern section of the Alps, for a system of marked alpine paths. A statue of him gazing Once an inn, not much has been changed besides the addition the Eastern Julian Alps in awe and respect at the mountains stands imposingly of ground floor windows, the space also housing a permanent stretch across much in his native Dovje, right beside the main Kranjska Gora- exhibition of the Kekec children’s stories author, Josip Vandot. of northwestern Slove- Jesenice road. Q Open Tues-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-17:00 (May-Oct), nia, bordering Austria 09:30-16:00 and 10:00-16:00 (Nov-Apr). Closed Mon. Admis- to the north and Italy sion €2.50 for adults, €1.70 children, €6 families. to the west. The park’s Cycling breathtaking landscape, Pocar Homestead (Pocarjeva Domačija) Zgornja including jagged peaks, Our preferred mode of exploration, cycling is perhaps Radovna 25, Mojstrana. Those who romanticise the rustic expansive spruce forest, the best way to see the most in the Kranjska Gora charm of the countryside, present company included, will be lush valleys and harmo- and Triglav National Park area. Aside from the highest thrilled to see one of the oldest homesteads in Triglav National nious ecosystem has all mountain pass in Slovenia, Vršič, which will surely not Park, located in a spectacular valley. Now open as a museum, a been protected since escape serious bike lovers, there is a wonderful well permanent exhibition and guide introduces visitors to the work the Alpine Conservation kept cycle path from Zgornja Radovna (where the Pocar and architecture, and story (respectively) of the rural locals, the Park was founded back homestead lies) to Gorje, via which you can visit Bled wonderful house also playing host to cultural events in the sum- in 1924. lake. One of Slovenia’s few fully paved cycling paths mertime. Rarely for homesteads, it has regular opening hours The centrepiece and Photo courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora runs the length of the valley from Jesenice to Rateče, (weekends in summer) so you don’t need to book in advance, inspiration for its name passing Kranjska Gora. Built where a disused railway although that is possible outside opening hours. QOpen , Fri, is Mount Triglav, the highest in Slovenia (2864 metres). a tiny metal structure, the Aljaž Tower. A storm shelter used to be, it is relatively flat and so ideal for families, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00 (summer). Open Sat-Sun and holidays The mountain is the symbol of Slovenia (it appears in for climbers, it is named after Jakob Aljaž, a priest allowing them to see beautiful natural attractions on from 29 June to 1 Sept from 11:00-18:00. Guided visits for the coat of arms), and the country’s flag was flown who bought the land at the Triglav peak for a single the way such as Zelenci Nature Reserve (the source of groups can be arranged in advance. here on June 26th, 1991, the day Slovenia declared Austro-Hungarian florin from the then municipality of Slovenia’s longest river). independence from Yugoslavia. The name, Triglav, Dovje in 1895. In fact, there are 200km of cycling tracks around Kran- Russian Chapel (Ruska Kapelica) Vršič. The Russian means three-headed, as it looks to have three peaks Triglav today attracts skiers in winter (to nearby jska Gora, which all feature in a map available at local Chapel (Ruska Kapelica) was built to honour Russian prison- when seen from the Bohinj valley. Vogel) and climbers in summer. The climb to the tourist information centres. ers of war who died here on the road to the Vršič pass during The first recorded ascent of Triglav was made on 26 summit is not all that hard, but it is long. For most For downhill enthusiasts there’s the bike park with its the First World War. It was a strategic point for the Austrians, August 1778, by Luka Korošec, Matija Kos, Štefan amateur climbers it’s a two-day ascent to the top, jumps, tables and seesaws, accessible via the Vitranc providing access (and arms) to the Soča Front. While keeping Rožič and Lovrenc Willomitzer, on the initiative of baron and requires an overnight stay in a mountain cabin. 1 ski lift. the road clear of snow an avalanche buried the soldiers, and Sigismund Zois. Its height was first measured in 1808 In short, it’s a special piece of nature, well worth Of course, bike rental is available at numerous places ten guards. The small but beautiful structure is in the style by Valentin Stanič. At the top of the mountain stands visiting. in town, including sports shops and many accommoda- of a traditional Russian church, situated 7km from Kranjska tion provider. Gora, on the left just after a right-hand hairpin bend.

Špan House (Španova hiša) Mojstrana. Formerly a large farm, the Špan residence shows little indication these Nature falls run through a picturesque gorge, the Upper Martuljek days of its once powerful role in the village. The Baroque fres- Črna Voda Waterfall Part of a series of waterfalls in waterfall cascading 110m down a cliff face, and later down cos on its façade, sun dial and ornaments, date from 1747. Tamar, deeper into the valley from Planica, the Črna voda a 50m drop, the Lower Martuljek waterfall. The spectacular falls spring from the rock face under the Slemenova Špica Martuljek or Špik dramatically overlooks the spectacle, which St Clement’s Church Mojstrana. A small Roman chapel mountain (1909m). The largest drop is 70m, below which the is now all part of Triglav National Park. stood here from the 11th century, which took its present form water suddenly disappears. Tamar is 5.5km from Rateče, and To reach the falls, head from the village of Gozd Martuljek in the mid-17th century. Legend has it that the Apostles of the falls are just 550m from the mountain hut, so suitable near Kranjska Gora, take either the direct gorge path (can be the Slavs rested here en-route to Rome with the bones of for families. dangerous because of falling rocks), or the path via Planina the church’s namesake saint. Jesenje, where you can stop for lunch at the alpine farmhouse Jasna Lake They say a picture tells a thousand words, in (Brunarica Pri Ingotu) followed by a left turn and steep 5-minute St Michael’s Church Dovje. According to local legend, which case, seeing the magnificent Jasna lake in reality must walk down to the lower Martuljek waterfall. the parish church of Dovje was moved to the edge of the tell a million. Purity, colour, serenity, clarity do not go any way village after the one in the centre collapsed several times. to describing the setting, the mixed spruce and deciduous Nadiža Waterfall (Slap Nadiža) The first source of The current neo-renaissance structure dates from 1829, covered slopes in the near-distance giving way to soaring the Sava Dolinka river springs from a crack in the rock here and houses a well preserved fresco of the crucifixion. Jakob rocky peaks in the dramatic background. This paradise is a at Tamar, under the Zadnja Ponca mountain. With only a Aljaž, the local patron and pioneer was based here, and many quick escape from Kranjska Gora, only a 20 minute walk up 300m surface course, the mountain stream then passes Triglav mountaineers from around Europe are buried here. the winding road toward Vršič. You are greeted at the lake’s underground to reemerge at Zelenci near Rateče. Located shore by the gruff face of the zlatorog (mountain goat), looking near the Tamar mountain hut. The Former Šmerc Inn Mojstrana. Now fully restored, contentedly northwards from his rock. While away an hour on in its heyday the Šmerc inn was legendary in these parts. It one of the benches lining the shore, then get a drink in one of Peričnik Waterfall (Slap Peričnik) A magnificent was here that the story of the golden-horned mountain goat the nearby bars and soak up that view for even longer. waterfall in one of the most spectacular valleys in Slovenia (Zlatorog) was penned. The famous Italian mountaineer and (Vrata), the Peričnik falls actually include one drop of 16m author of several books on the Slovenian Alps, Julius Kugy, Martuljek Waterfalls (Martuljški Slapovi) By virtue and then the main 52m descent, a spectacular spray from a was also a guest. The house was first built out of wood by the of an excellent beauty to effort ratio, ie stunning scenery point in the rock face, best seen during the spring snow-melt. Photo by Iztok Noč, courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora Bavarian Šmerc, and these days frescos of St Mary of Višarje, with relatively easy accessibility, the site of the Martuljek Located deep in the valley from the main road at Mojstrana, St Florian and St Michael still adorn the walls. waterfalls is one of Kranjska Gora’s more popular. Several under the north wall of Triglav.

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it’s a must see. Ajdovska Deklica (Buckwheat Girl), Ruska overlooking the sleepy former agricultural villages. Some of Hiking Kapelica (The Russian Chapel) and Prisank mountain window the best views of the Martuljek mountain range can be had Skiing are all sights to be seen on the way. Indeed it is known as from Srednji Vrh, on the opposite slope. Probably the most popular outdoor activity you can do Ruska Cesta, having been built by Russian prisoners of war around Kranjska Gora. There are 121km of marked to supply the Soča Front during WWI. There are numerous Podkoren Idyllic and serene, Podkoren is almost a world paths in the adjoining valleys, namely Planica, Pišnica and marked paths accessible from the pass, leading to the high away from its larger neighbour, Kranjska Gora. Actually older Krnica, and walks range from easy strolls to full blown peaks in the vicinity. than the latter, Koren was important for its Medieval road. hikes (some with equipment necessary). The tourist of- Indeed Korensko sedlo (saddle) was, until the completion fice, as always, is a good starting point, where you can Zelenci This nature reserve is home of the serene and pris- of the Karavanke tunnel in 1990, the main transport route pick up a map with 20 marked trails, which meander in tine source of the Sava Dolinka river, tributary to the longest between central and northern Europe. Now it represents an and out of national park territory. in Slovenia, the Sava. However, it’s not the original source, attractive retreat from the bustle of Kranjska Gora, unless Paths starting in Kranjska Gora include Srednji Vrh there is a secret lurking beneath the pure green waters. If you it’s ski world cup weekend that is! (960m), above Gozd Martuljek; towards Podkoren look closely, you will see what look like little volcanoes on the through the Stan valley; the Krnica valley via the winding bed of the lake. Don’t be alarmed, this is just water seeping Radovna A 20km valley connected to two adjacent valleys, road towards Vršič, turning left over the Pišnica river after out from the Nadiža underground stream, which comes from Kot and Krma, Radovna is also the name for the local river the second bridge and traversing the foothills of Prisank the Planica valley. A mere 5-6°C all year round, it’s not warm and village, where you can find the 500 year old Gogal linden and Razor - mighty peaks; and from the Vitranc chairlift as you might have been expecting. tree, which is 25 metres tall. You can also pay a visit the Pocar a footpath along the winter cross-country ski track and The immediate surroundings are covered in woods, long reeds farm here, and do a cycling trip to Bled. through forest brings you to an alpine hut in Tamar. And and grass, and are home to such fauna as the whiskered bat then there are the magnificent valleys of Vrata, Kot and and sand lizard, thankfully neither of which preys on tourists. The Rateče Best known for the adjacent Planica and one of the Krma so be discovered. flora is also diverse; early summer when the white blossoms largest ski jumping hills in the world, the village of Rateče is reach full bloom is a good time to visit. Having walked for about the last on the road to the Italian border, in fact being located Photo courtesy of BTB seven minutes from the main Kranjska Gora-Planica road to by the tri-border (also with Austria). To the south, the source get here, it’s convenient yet a little noisy, making early morning of the Sava Dolinka river springs out as the Nadiža waterfall At heart, Kranjska Gora was and is essentially a ski town. a favourable time to fully experience the mystique of this gem. at Tamar. Rateče is one of the coldest places in Slovenia, The winter season sees the town at its height, bustling with harsh alpine winters, but plenty of sunny days on which with winter sports enthusiasts from Slovenia and abroad. to enjoy walks across the pastures and through the forests. The slopes are spread along the Vitranc mountain ridge For Kids Some of the first official records in the Slovene language from Kranjska Gora all the way to Planica (800-1215m), Buckwheat Girl (Ajdovska Deklica) One of the best originate here, copies of which are on display at the church and are served by 5 chairlifts and 13 drag lifts. Aside from known local legends goes like this: a kind-hearted local girl used of St. Tomaž (the originals being in Klagenfurt). a range of Alpine ski slopes, including the World Cup run to lead mountaineers and travellers through winter storms, at Podkoren, cross-country skiers can take advantage safely over the mountains to Trenta. The twist is that she of a beautiful trail, made where the train tracks used to was also a Pagan deity, Sojenica, who foretold the fortunes of Sport & Activities lie, at the bottom of the valley. newborns. A boy from Trenta was prophesised as a formidable Courtesy of the dramatic mountainous terrain, there are numer- Ever popular with trendy snowboarders, the board- hunter (common on the Soča side of the mountains, as op- ous sports opportunities to be found in and around Kranjska park here features enough carved up piste, jumps and posed to the farmers in Zgornjosavje), who would later go on Gora. Should you decide to make the town your base, you can grinding rails to satisfy the needs of the most chronic to kill a sacred chamois known as the Goldhorn (or Zlatorog (and probably should) venture onto the peaks for summertime ‘carvaholics’ and those who prize showing off their in Slovene). She was damned and cursed, upon her return to hiking, climbing or cycling - and wintertime skiing or boarding slash-and-burn turns. Prisank hill having been turned to stone. Her terrified face is (checkout the local board-park). For watersports, the upper part The best part is, there’s no long gondola ride to get best seen from Poštarska Koča, a mountain hut on Vršič. of the Sava river, or the nearby Soča (over Vršič), offer great access to the slopes in Kranjska Gora, with just a snow opportunities. Fishing permits are available at the tourist office beach between you and the piste when you roll out of and you can take up to three home for dinner. There’s also a bed in the morning. Around Kranjska Gora golf course near Kranjska Gora. Dovje and Mojstrana Two villages on opposing sides of So active holidays are something of a must here, and probably the the Sava Dolinka river, Dovje and Mojstrana are important reason you came in the first place! Check out further descriptions as well as diving courses and van rental. There are also three agricultural and (formerly) industrial sites, respectively. The of the most popular of Kranjska Gora’s outdoor pursuits below. apartment houses in Kranjska Gora managed by Bernik (see Photo by Bobo courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora latter developed in the 14th century around the growing min- accommodation). ing and iron industry, the former has a thousand year history of agriculture, its terraced fields sitting under the towering cliffs Agencies Julijana Turizem Borovška 93b, tel. +386 (0)45 88 Prisank Mountain Window Visible from the Vršič road and slopes of the Karavanke mountains. Three spectacular 1005 Smerinje 11, tel. +386 (0)41 36 72 11, janez.zle- 13 25/+386 (0)41 62 37 01, fax +386 (0)45 82 03 is a window in the rock, through which the sky is visible, but valleys lead from Mojstrana into the Julian Alps: Krma (good [email protected]. Part of the Kekec complex, well if you count 18, [email protected], www.julijana.info. from that long distance it doesn’t look as mighty is it is close access to Triglav and good for ski tours), Kot (shaded seren- a ski school, equipment rental place, night sledding organiser Established just as Slovenia gained independence, in 1991, up. A massive 80m by 40m, it is a matter of speculation as ity) and Vrata (sheer beauty and the sheer northern wall of and snack bar sporting the boy’s name as such! Julijana is one of the best dedicated sports agencies in to the origin of the hole, though a landslide and puncturing Triglav). Indeed, the area is a great starting point for exploring. Kranjska Gora. Aside from Kekec land, a fairytale theme of a weak point in the rock seem feasible. Known as both Both the Kredarica and and Vrata mountain lodges were built Extreme Outdoor Adventures Borovška 95, tel./fax park in honour of the so-named children’s national hero, Prisank and Prisojnik. under the famous Jakob Aljaž around the turn of the 20th cen- +386 (0)42 50 53 59, tel. +386 (0)31 26 12 63, exo@ they organise ski tours, sledding, rafting, trips by torches, tury. Also a composer and poet, the said man was responsible siol.net, www.exo-adventures.com. An agency in the mountain biking, mountaineering and even offer a snow taxi Recurrent Lake of Ledine Not far from Rateče and for the tower on top of Triglav, and his monument can be seen centre of Kranjska Gora, focussing on the those sports with service (presumably featuring icy wind in your face at no extra Planica, there is an attractive recurrent lake. Full of water from the main road between the two villages. a little bit more adrenaline involved, namely: trekking, horse charge). Picture hunts are also conducted, courtesy of the in autumn and spring (from the Sava Dolinka and Nadiža Located some 15km east of Kranjska Gora, on the main road riding, hunt safari, paintball, sailing, alpine biking, sledding. photogenic surroundings. Located in the centre. rivers), with the warm summer air it evaporates, leaving just to Jesenice (10km away). Plus they organise a cross-country ski school, courses and a patch of grass for the local farmers to mow. In winter the workshops, and mini bus rental. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Kofler Sport Kurirska Pot 20, tel. +386 (0)41 60 82 lake freezes over. Gozd Martuljek and Srednji Vrh Two settlements a 97/+386 (0)31 36 49 80, [email protected], www. few kilometres east of Kranjska Gora comprise interesting Intersport Bernik Borovška 88a, tel. +386 (0)4 588 kofler-sport.si. A Mojstrana based outdoor sports agency, Vršič Where to start, well the word ‘epic’ springs to mind, stories of Carinthian herdsmen and pilgrims on their way to 47 80, fax +386 (0)4 588 47 81, info@intersport- offering summertime activities including sport climbing, guided with 50 hairpin bends making up this high mountain pass Višarje. At the end of the First World War, there were 19 mills bernik.com, www.intersport-bernik.com. Specialists mountaineering, downhill mountainbiking, watersports; and in between Upper Carniola and the Trenta valley. It’s the high- and 4 sawmills in Rute. At that point, Gozd Martuljek was for ski related services in the winter, be it equipment rental, the winter all manner of ski-related activities, sledding and ice est in Slovenia, and the Eastern Julian Alps, reaching 1611m, renamed as such. Nowadays they can serve as the starting servicing or skiing lessons, Bernik does it all. The summer climbing. There’s a special children’s program, and additional with five mountain huts along the way. Whether you cycle it, point for hiking (there’s also a nearby waterfall), or picturesque programme includes packages combining cycling (with bike services such as climbing equipment rental and ski servicing offering the best views and rewarding descent, or go by car, destinations in themselves, the Martuljek and Špik peaks rental) and rafting, the adrenaline park or summer toboggan, are offered.

Slovenian Alps slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013 62 Kranjska Gora TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK Kekec story baddie) is a 70m chute on air cushions. Both are guaranteed to keep your kids satisfied (or hyperactive) all afternoon. In the Kingdom of the Goldenhorn magnificent Triglav glacier - also called the Zeleni Sneg Shopping (Green snow) by the locals - the highest peaks take your ‘Duty free’ and luxury breath away. Hidden between are typical high-mountain karstic phenomena and a subterranean world with over Kompas Shop Podkoren 50a, MMP Korensko Sedlo, tel. +386 (0)4 58 81 19 6, [email protected], www. 600 caves discovered to date. Here’s also the north face kompas-mts.si. These two border stores at Korensko Sedlo of Triglav, the second highest in the Julian Alps, and a (Austrian border) and near Rateče (Italian) are a honey-pot for number of natural windows, the largest being in Prisank citizens of the neighbouring European states. Predominantly (2,547 m) together with the famous Ajdovska Deklica rock they come for cheaper (albeit to a lesser extent these days) formation that resembles the face of a young woman. cigarettes. Alcohol and other ‘duty free’ type commodities are also on sale: perfume, jewellery, chocolate, luggage, toys and home-wares. Both shops, and indeed borders, are The park has a wealth of plant species: indigenous alpine conveniently only a 20-25 minute drive from Kranjska Gora. flowers, the remains of virgin forests, larches over a mil- QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. PAL lennium old, the most southern swamplands in Europe, a number of wetlands… It is also the habitat of numerous Art & Souvenirs All genuine fairy-tales begin with “Once upon a time...” and animal species, such as chamois, mountain goat, golden Shop and Gallery Kekec Borovška 82, tel. +386 (0)41 end “And they lived happily ever after.” When you enter eagle, wildcat, western capercaillie, hazel grouse, Teng- 322 518/+386 (0)41 790 292, fax +386 (0)4588 20 the Triglav National Park, you realize that there’s no end malm’s owl... 67, [email protected]. Art enthusiasts can browse to a fairy-tale, and that you are indeed its main character. Cultural features: The architecture of rock and timber through a tasteful selection of Slovenian art in this small, but Traversing blooming pastures swept by a warm Mediterra- quality shop and gallery, as well as an interesting selection of nean wind, relishing the reflection in crystal clear mountain prints, souvenirs, antiques, gifts and memorabilia. QOpen In the park area, the architecture of rock and timer join to- 09:00 - 12:00 & 15:00 - 19:00. lakes, and in every contact with the dazzling-white moun- gether, with over 300 units of real-estate cultural heritage. tains whose breath-taking walls reach to the sky, bring you It has 25 settlements, each with distinctive characteristics Souvenir & Workshop Prezlc R/S-3, Borovška 91, closer and closer to your true self. tel./fax +386 (0)4 588 53 50, tel. +386 (0)41 330 Triglav National Park which connects botanists and ro- 063, [email protected], www.prezlc.si. Don’t forget to get mantics the world over is one of the oldest such parks a souvenir or two to remember the wonderful memories in Europe. The high hanging valley of Sedmera Jezera - There are lots of family-friendly places to discover around you’ve collected during your stay in Kranjska Gora. Pop into Kranjska Gora, photo courtesy of LTO Kranjska Gora this little souvenir shop and look through traditional and where the story of the park actually started – is one of the unique products such as ceramics made of glass and wood, gems of the entire Alps. books, maps, guides, postcards and more. Many products are RTC Žičnice Kranjska Gora Borovška 103a, tel. +386 carefully handmade at their very own in-house workshop, in The park is a synonym for untamed and heterogeneous (0)4 580 94 00, fax +386 (0)4 580 94 10, info@kr-gora. which you can usually take a peek during the working months. si, www.kr-gora.si. If there’s an outdoor activity that can be QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. JA nature which can be discovered by way of enjoyable well- done in or around Kranjska Gora, then these guys can help marked scenic routes. Here your children will realize that make arrangements for it. From leisurely hiking and Nordic cows are not purple and there is no need to check the walking to more extreme climbing, canyoning and cycling in the Sportswear & Equipment expiry dates on the dairy products. summer, they also operate two summer toboggan runs and Intersport Borovška 92, tel. +386 (0)51 285 453, Every visit to the Triglav National Park will make you feel an extreme bike park. In the winter months, they provide info www.intersport.si. One of Slovenia’s largest sporting retail- about the various different skiing opportunities available. ers has a shop conveniently located in the middle of Kranjska as though this was your first: such perfect beauty can Gora, which is also conveniently open every day of the week. A never be familiar. And this is why there’s no end to this wide selection of clothing, shoes and equipment are all found fairytale! and herdsmen’s settlements. Special mention should be Sport Centres here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. made of the Pocar homestead in Zgornja Radovna, whilst Olimpijski Športni Center Planica Rateče 167, the sacred architecture includes the Church of St. John Rateče-Planica, tel. +386 (0)4 58 84 57 0, planica@ Monarh Sport Naselje Slavka Černeta 34, tel. +386 TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK: UNIQUE csod.si, www.osc-planica.si. Aside from the obvious winter (0)4 588 13 73, [email protected], www.monarh- and the Church of the Holy Spirit at Lake Bohinj, the small attraction - the annual Planica world ski jumping championship sport.si. Conveniently located in the small shopping centre The only national park in Slovenia protects the last area of Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit at Javorca and the - you have so many other opportunities at this sports centre (Naselje Slavka Černeta) by the main road through Kranjska original alpine nature. Its international significance is con- Russian chapel under the Vršič pass. A very special re- and hotel: gym, indoor and outdoor sports areas (basketball, Gora, this sports shop is a very good all-rounder. The friendly firmed by the European Diploma of the Council of Europe, minder of the past is the metal Aljaž Tower on the peak of volleyball and football), massage rooms, snack bar, function staff sell everything you might need for an outdoor pursuit in listing as a Natura 2000 site and in particular, UNESCO’s Triglav, the highest Slovenian mountain (2,864 m), which room (100 persons) and seminar room (30 persons). Other the rugged surrounding Julian and Karavanke Alps. Famous- facilities include sports equipment rental and hypoxia simu- brand skis, equipment, outdoor clothing and footwear are all decision to include the park in the international network of gave the park its name. lation, which recreates a high altitude environment of up to supplied in abundance. Bike/scooter rental is also available biosphere reserves, MAB in 2003. 6000m. Room rates are a good value, and include a visit to in the summer. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. In summer Natural features: More than a thousand valuable natural Administration and information centre at Bled the sauna! Located 5km from Kranjska Gora. Q From €31 Sundays 09:00-13:00. features Triglav national park per person. PAUW Ljubljanska 27, 4260 Bled Sport Point Borovška 93a, tel. +386 (0)51 348 000/+386 (0)31 388 488, www.sport-point.si. This Situated in an area of glacial lakes and valleys, karst Tel.: + 386 (0) 4 57 80 200 Summer Toboggan Rides family-run shop has been selling sports equipment and springs and waterfalls and the remains of the once E-mail: [email protected] There are two places to get an instant thrill out of the fashionable sportswear for more than a dozen years, also slopes during the summer months. The Besna Pehta​ offering ski rentals during the winter and bike rentals in the (Furious Pehta) runs 1500m down the Vitranc 1 slope, summer. They additionally run a charming little café and let the Bedančeva Drča (the Slide of Bedanc - the infamous a two-bedroom apartment.

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Duplje Castle Spodnje Duplje 36, tel. +386 (0)4 One of the things we love about Slovenia is that it offers a Baroque tower, whilst the medieval interior is one of the best 2571 503, [email protected], www.grascina- bit of everything, and like some kind of geographic Russian preserved in Slovenia. It is worth popping into to check out duplje.si. While it has officially been bestowed with the nesting doll the small town of Preddvor has a bit of every- the original 15th century frescos which include a scene of title of ‘castle’, Duplje more closely resembles a stately thing too - beautiful natural wonders, historic castles and St George fighting a dragon. One church a day is enough for countryside mansion. This former nobleman’s residence cute churches with a good dose of local folklore thrown in. us, though if they are your thing then there are plenty more is privately owned and houses a museum dedicated to Visitors can relax besides the picturesque Črnava Lake historic churches in the area. Check with the tourist informa- the history of Duplje and the castle itself. The exposition and take a stroll along the four castles path or for a more tion office in the centre of town for more details. includes old weaponry (like halberds and lances), several re- demanding hike head up Mt Zaplata to the mysterious gional coats of arms, richly decorated medieval costumes, Devil’s Forest. Preddvor is also a popular destination for The Four Castles Path In a country as rich in castles as old pictures of this and other regional castles and much newlyweds as a stroll along the town’s ash tree prom- Slovenia, Preddvor still manages to boast far more than its more. The castle is superbly renovated and the collection enade is said to guarantee 50 years of faithfulness and fair share, with four in total on its territory, or one for every radiates passion for the local and regional history. Visits love. The town, or village really with just over 800 inhabit- 200 or so residents: Hrib Castle, Turn Castle, Dvor Castle are by appointment only. ants, is located some 10 kilometres north of Kranj. and the remains of the 12th-century Pusti Castle, which are connected by an easily navigable walking path. Pod Krivo Jelko Pod Krivo Jelko is a spot in the Udin Castle Turn overlooking the village of Potoče is probably Boršt forest which was a renowned meeting and party What to See the most impressive of the bunch. Built in the mid-14th place for 19th-century bandits, most of whom were ac- Črnava Lake This picturesque artificial lake is a popular century, its long storied history includes time spent under tually sons of regional farmers attempting to evade year round destination and picnic spot. In warmer months the ownership of the Counts of Celje (when it was dam- military service and were covertly given assistance by Slovenes pack the banks sunning themselves and swimming, aged during an ongoing feud with the Habsburgs), raids their families. However, in due time more people joined whilst in winter brave souls venture onto the ice to skate the by Ottoman Turks, and being sold by Holy Roman Emperor and the general movement turned into an ordinary gang natural way. Hotel Bor next to Castle Hrib on the shore of the Maximillian I. During the 19th century it was also the home of ruffians with their own codes and language, who often lake is a good spot to grab an ice cream on a sunny day or of one of Slovenia’s first female writers, poets and compos- resorted to violence to gain wealth. Recently Pod Krivo flee the ice in winter for a warming local brandy. ers - Josipina Urbančič Turnograjska. Walking the castle Jelko has been transformed into a popular place for picnics path is a nice way to explore the local villages and take in and other gatherings, ideal for seeking refuge from the Mt Zaplata and the Devil’s Forest Preddvor sits the beautiful natural surroundings. infamous summer heat. Noteworthy is also the nearby at the base of the mysterious Mt Zaplata, famous for the walking path which leads along local Karst landscape that isolated patch of woods on its steep slope, known locally features sinkholes and caves. by the more menacing moniker Devil’s Forest. Legend has Tourist Information it that two brothers from the plains below Mt Zaplata were Vogvar House Spodnje Duplje 47, tel. +386 (0)41 quarrelling over a forested plot of land near their farm when Tourist Information Centre Dvorski Trg 3, tel. 517 476. The Vogvar House, constructed from wooden one of them bemoaned “to hell with it!“ at which point the Devil +386 (0)59 14 88 46, [email protected], beams and logs, is a typical 19th-century farmhouse which himself picked up the forest and carried it on his back up the www.preddvor-tourism.si. As well as offering local nowadays serves as an ethnographic museum and gives mountain. However, before he reached the top the day broke, knowledge and helpful advice, the Preddvor Tourist you the chance to take a peek into the daily life of the olden causing him to lose his strength and drop the six hectare Information Centre also rents bicycles and sells local In the middle of it all stands the charming town of Naklo, days. The exhibition is small but thorough, consisting of an patch of forest where it still rests today. Its remoteness and souvenirs, such as honey, dried fruits, hand-blown glass historical shoemakers corner with all the equipment, an superstition mean that it has remained a beautiful untouched photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia products and postcards. Open in the mornings seven authentic ‘black’ kitchen (people didn’t have a cooker hood, virgin forest and is a popular hiking destination, some two and days a week as well as the afternoons at the weekends, hence the term black kitchen) and a room that was used as a half hours away from Preddvor on foot. they’re also the best people to talk to about the numer- First mentioned in 1241, Naklo had a turbulent history a living and sleeping area. ous walking, hiking and cycling paths in the area. QOpen for its first seven centuries or so, due mainly to waves Traditional costumes, old photos and antique everyday utensils The Church of St Leonard It seems like there is cute 09:00 - 12:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00. of unwanted visitors who were interested in the town’s enrich this interesting exhibit. One further interesting detail is that church on almost every hill and in every town in Slovenia, but Rates for standard and electric bike rentals: €4.50 for 1 strategic location: Turkish raiders, French troops, the home was still inhabited until only two decades ago. St Leonard’s Church is particularly impressive. Dating back hour, €10 up to 6 hours, €15 per day. unscrupulous bandits and German soldiers all once to around 1400 it mixes styles with a Roman design and terrorized the landscape here. Nowadays tourism is high on the agenda and visitors with good intentions Where to Stay & Eat are more than welcome in this inviting municipality. Hotel Marinšek Glavna 2, tel. +386 (0)5 9234 100, Centrally located between several of Slovenia’s most fax +386 (0)4 2577 720, [email protected], www. famous tourist destinations and with excellent bike marinsek.net. This luxurious 61-room hotel boasts a wide routes leading past its own highlights, Naklo is a per- range of facilities. The rooms are tidy and comfortable, and fect starting point for day trips of even longer holidays. include cable television and wifi. Famished travellers will most Abundant traditional inns and craft workshops add to definitely be satisfied with the extensive choice of traditional the rural charm of this picturesque town. homemade or international cuisine in the restaurant and pizzeria. For recreation one can head to the bowling centre, play pool or go to the gym for some fitness. Relaxation is What to See & Do possible in the wellness centre, which offers saunas, treat- Church of St Mary of the Seven Sorrows Podbrezje ments and massages. 193, tel. +386 (0)41 875 118. On a hill in Podbrezje stands the old fortified church of St Mary of the Seven Sorrows. Built Kamp Trnovc Zgornje Duplje 4, tel. +386 (0)4 533 in the 15th century as a safe haven for the surrounding popu- 10 00, [email protected], www.trnovc.com. The camp- lace in case of Turkish attacks. What remains of the fortifica- ground at the Trnovc Farm is conveniently located near tions is a guard tower and the defensive wall. Alongside the the main motorway, but once you’ve checked in you’ll feel wall visitors can admire 11 chapels depicting the Way of the surrounded by nature thanks to relaxing murmur of the Cross, all of which feature artworks by contemporary Slovene river which flows next to the site. Guests can also expect artists. Inside the church is an eye-catching altar with St Mary to receive a hospitable welcome from the family who runs of the Seven Sorrows, which has been a famous pilgrimage the camp, which makes settling in for your stay all the more shrine for some 150 years, as well as several beautiful stylisti- pleasant. Besides having shaded places, clean and neat cally diverse frescos ranging from the 18th to the mid-20th sanitary fittings, and the option to buy refreshments, the century. The interior of the church is further adorned with a camp is an ideal place to discover Naklo and surround- painting of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, a personal ing highlights like Bled, Kranj, Bohinj and even Ljubljana. If a quiet communion with nature is what you’re after, than Preddvor is the place to head, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of gift from famous Slovene artist Ivana Kobilca. Q Open from 1 May to 30 Sept. Picture Slovenia

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parking. The conservative rooms come armed with all the ideal for taking advantage for the range of outdoor activities expected mod-cons, and Internet access is available though- on offer, such as hiking, cycling, rafting and fishing - all of out. The views from the rooftop terrace are excellent. Q 34 which can be arranged with advanced notice. Q 9 chalets rooms (singles €48-60, doubles €69-85, triples €99-122). €75-105, does not include breakfast or mandatory €20 PJARULG cleaning fee. TAL

Lambergh Château & Hotel Dvorska vas 37a, Vidic House Linhartov Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)31 810 767, Begunje na Gorenjskem, tel. +386 (0)8 200 5000, [email protected], www.vidichouse.com. Despite fax +386 (0)4 532 5907, [email protected], being called a hostel and even having official HI status, as www.hotel-lambergh.com. Set on a vast estate at the it mostly offers private accommodation it’s really more of foothills of the Alps, Lambergh doesn’t so much combine a guest house. But semantics aside, you can find cheap classical and contemporary style as it actually offers both accommodation here right on Radovljica’s main square. The at the same time - with an elegant modern hotel built Renaissance mansion dates from the early 17th century, alongside a exquisitely restored 13th century manor. The and rooms tidy if a bit dated. The café and sweets shop on hotel offers guests large, bright rooms, all with balconies the ground floor should be a mandatory stop for those with and most with glorious views of the countryside and children. The premises are open year-round, but reception mountains in the distance. The manor, or castle as it is closes at 22:00 in the summer and 21:00 in the winter. sometimes called, has nine superior rooms with an authen- Q 2 rooms and 3 apartments (€17-22 per person). Break- tic Renaissance ambience. However, the most attractive fast and tourist tax not included. TJA part of the premises may be the luxurious spa centre on the ground floor of the hotel, which in addition to various saunas and massage rooms, has a full pool and jacuzzi Apartments where you can take in panoramic views of the landscape Apartmaji Vidmar Begunjska 6b, tel. +386 (0)4 53 while you swim. Q Hotel: 43 rooms (singles €105-140, 18 878/+386 (0)41 606 155, info@apartmaji-vidmar. doubles €140-190, suites €200-240). Manor: 9 rooms si, www.apartmaji-vidmar.si. These spacious modern (singles €120-195, doubles €160-260, suites €280-320). apartments are situated in the old town centre of Lesce, PHARLKDCW just across the street from the Church of St Mary of the As- sumption. At 45m² the four apartments can accommodate Sport Hotel Manca Gradnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)4 531 two to four people each. Perhaps more interesting the so- 4051/+386 (0)4 531 4120, [email protected], called Legat House next door. Dating from the 17th century, www.manca-sp.si. This large family run guest house has it is the oldest building in town and can also be rented for use by larger groups. It can accommodate up to 12 people Named for an 18th-century playwright, Linhart Square is one of the most picture-perfect public spaces in Slovenia everything one could want for an active holiday - there’s a swimming pool, tennis court and elegantly-designed sauna in five bedrooms, and also has two kitchens, one of which facilities on the premises and bikes are on hand for trips into has a traditional black fireplace, as well as a garden. Q 4 Radovljica, or Radol’ca as it is more affectionately the surrounding countryside, including Bled, which is only apartments (doubles €55, each additional person €10). Pets Tourist Information known, may not be as well-known as nearby Bled, but 6km away. They also specialise in arranging a number of and breakfast are each €6. Legat House (10-12 people) has it boasts a wide range of sights and activities, and other activities, such as hiking excursions, rafting, golfing a weekly rate of €1050-1200, plus cleaning costs. TIC Radovljica Linhartov Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)4 531 also offers something that its more famous neighbour and even panoramic flights and sky diving. Most rooms 51 12, fax +386 (0)8 205 13 36, [email protected], simply can’t: peace, quiet and a relaxing medieval town have balconies and views towards the mountains, and if radolca.si. Radovljica’s tourist information centre can atmosphere. An administrative centre since the 16th you’re lucky the family’s enormous black Newfoundland be conveniently found near the main entrance to Linhart century, today the municipality of Radovljica comprises will keep you company while you’re poolside or relaxing in Square. Located on the ground floor of the Mrak House, some four dozen individual settlements and nearly the garden. Q 16 rooms (singles €39-70, doubles €60- the shiny new office provides a whole host of informa- 20,000 people. At the centre of it all, and of most inter- 104, triples €79-138, suites €80-140). Rates depend tion and services for the town, municipality and entire est to tourists, is the picturesque old town situated on on season and whether or not breakfast is included. Gorenjska region, including accommodation, excursions, a hilltop overlooking the Dežela plain to the east and TJA6LBDCW maps, tickets and free internet. It also has a wide selec- the Sava river valley to the west, with perfect views of tion of typical Slovene souvenirs, as well as products the Julian Alps dominating the background in seemingly made under its own brand, and free guided tours of all directions. Guest Houses & Pensions the old town depart from here every Sunday at 14:00. The compact city centre is a veritable open air museum of Tulipan Alpska 8, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)4 537 88 00, fax Q Open every day 09:00-19:00 from May to October, beautifully restored buildings, narrow sloping streets and +386 (0)4 537 88 40, [email protected], www. 10:00-16:00 from November to April. pleasant sidewalk cafés. The wider area is home to count- tulipan-azman.si. The nine rooms located above a well- less hiking and cycling paths, some great accommodation known restaurant of the same name are clean and comfort- Hop-On Hop-Off Radol’ca Linhartov Trg 9, tel. options (including an award-winning campsite, a newly able. The family rooms - which are essentially two-room +386 (0)4 153 151 12/+386 (0)40 460 675, info@ built tourist farm and several old town guest houses), an suites - are a good value since they can be had for the same radolca.si, www.radolca.si. While the hop-on, hop-off airport offering scenic flights and the Bled-Lesce train sta- price as a double. There are also some gorgeous views to tourist bus concept is a familiar sight in most of the world’s tion. All of this, plus the genuinely welcoming spirit of its be had of the Julian Alps, in fact, the rooms are named for major cities, it’s not often that you see such a thing in residents, should lead many visitors to consider choosing which peaks can be seen from the windows. Easy to find just rural areas and small towns. However, Radovljica’s forward Radol’ca as their base for the region and making Bled a off the motorway on the main north-south road going through thinking tourist office has realised that this is the perfect day trip, rather than vice versa. Lesce. Q 9 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50). Breakfast €5 way for visitors to discover some of the region’s hidden per person. TALK corners and off the beaten path venues. Operating from the beginning of July till late August, every Tuesday and Where to stay Turistično Naselje Dole Poljšica 6, Podnart, tel. Friday the bus makes four circular journeys along a route +386 (0)41 680 925, [email protected], covering Bled, Radovljica, Begunje, Brezje and Kropa, be- Hotels www.naselje-dole.si. Experience the tranquillity of na- fore returning to Bled via Radovljica, taking in all the sights Krek Hraška 15, tel. +386 (0)45 30 23 45, fax +386 ture at this newly built tourist village outside the village of along the way. Special guided tours and other activities (0)45 30 23 49, [email protected], www.hotel.krek.si. Podnart. The nine chalets measure 70m², with a kitchen, can also be arranged in advance. For more info and full Situated in the village of Lesce, Krek is a great option for living room and bathroom on the ground floor and with programme see the website of Tourism Radovljica. Q All business travellers with their own cars - who are in town for private balconies on the first floor. They are situated a day tickets are €4 for adults, free for children. business but would rather avoid the tourists in Bled. Its large symmetrically on a hillside, to provide the feeling of privacy rounded glass façade is hard to miss, and there is plenty of and unobstructed views of the countryside. The location is The Šivec House is the town’s main gallery space

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treasure: the ‘Gala In’ beer. The culinary concept of refined Lectar Inn Linhartov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)45 37 48 00, Camping pub food and pizzas also melts down perfectly with a pint. A [email protected], www.lectar.com. Serving a selection Camp Šobec Šobčeva 25, tel. +386 (0)45 35 37 00, fax popular establishment amongst locals, who have acquired of delicious Slovene cuisine and wines, Lectar is an impres- +386 (0)45 35 37 01, [email protected], sobec.si. Located a habit of returning night after night. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. sive option for any occasion, event or business social. Folk in a thick pine forest, this camping ground with its very own (€6-18). TAUIB music and dancing is arranged most evenings for some light lake is located on the road out of Bled towards Lesce. You entertainment for the restaurant’s guests. The restaurant can either pitch a tent or rent one of the bungalows that feel Gostilna Kunstelj Gorenjska 9, tel. +386 (0)4 53 is conveniently divided into several rooms, perfect for those and smell pine-wood fresh during the summer time. Plenty 15 178, fax +386 (0)4 53 04 151, gostilna@kun- coming in larger gatherings or families. A must see here is of family-friendly activities can be organised, as well as just stelj.net, www.kunstelj.si. First opened in 1873, this museum in the basement. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed relaxing in the campsite itself. A supermarket, restaurant friendly family-run guesthouse can be found in the centre Tu e . PTJAUG and laundry are located on the grounds. Q Tents/person of Radovljica’s old town, just north of Linhartov Trg. The €8.10-13.80, bungalows €75-150. menu is focussed on traditional Slovene favourites and also includes a number of house specialties as well as Events set multi-course menus for groups, all of which can be Where to eat viewed in advance on their website. There are a number Bolšjak Flea Market Linhartov Trg, tel. +386 Gostilna Avsenik Begunje 21, Begunje, tel. +386 (0)45 of separate themed dining spaces (hunters, poets and (0)4 531 51 12, [email protected], radolca.si. Held 33 34 02, www.avsenik.com. The Avsenik Brothers are golfers all have their own rooms), but the real standout on the last Sunday of every month on the town’s main the world’s reining kings of Oberkrainer polka (with gold and here is the glorious summer terrace out back, which offers square, the flea market is one of the largest in the platinum records abounding), and their centuries-old family some of the finest views of any restaurant in Slovenia. area and attracts both buyers and sellers from as restaurant, in their hometown of Begunje, draws crowds from Accommodation in modernly renovated rooms upstairs is far as Ljubljana. The programme also includes free around the world not only for its homemade regional food but also available. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Thu. workshops for children, and in the event of rain the also for its regular polka performances, dance floor and an- PTJAILEB entire affair is moved inside to the lobby and atrium nual festival. Avsenik is a great way to experience Slovenia’s of the adjacent Radovljica Mansion.QOpen Sun particular form of Alpine culture, but if you’re looking for a Gostišče Tulipan Alpska 8, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)4 537 08:00 - 13:00. quiet place to dine and chat, this isn’t it; the jolly sound of 88 00, [email protected], www.tulipan-azman.si. The gingerbread workshop at the Lectar Inn is a must for the accordion pervades throughout. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Easy to find just off the motorway on the main north-south families or anyone with a sweet tooth Radovljica Chocolate Festival Linhartov Trg, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (€6-15). road going through Lesce, the newly-renovated Tulipan tel. +386 (0)4 531 5112, www.radolca.si. First serves up a menu full of filling Slovene and international held in 2012, in a few short years the Radovljica Gostilna Gala In Hraška 13, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)45 cuisine in its wood-covered dining areas and intimate out- Izletniška Kmetija Globočnik Globoko 9, Radovljica, Chocolate Festival has already become the largest 31 60 00, fax +386 (0)45 31 60 01, galain.nida@ door terraces. The house specialities are game dishes, tel. +386 41 54 57 48/+386 40 73 69 30, globocnik.tur- event of its kind in Slovenia, as well as one of the gmail.com. Tucked away outside Lesce, this complex is a including several venison choices and some excellent wild [email protected], www.globocnik.si. About as traditional overall tastiest events of any kind. Bringing together pub, restaurant, pizzeria and brewery all housed under one boar. Rooms are also available upstairs. Q Open Mon-Thur as you can get. This beautiful old cottage, built in 1628, has the country’s top chocolate producers (of which there roof. The environment here provides a perfect sanctuary 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00 and Sun 12:00-22:00. been restored to its former glory by friendly, round-cheeked are surprisingly quite a few, especially on a per capita for beer lovers gulping down pints of the establishment’s (€6-18). TALB local artist and chef Cena Globočnik. Having been handed basis!), visitors can taste chocolate of every shape, size down through generations, it’s now a restaurant, featuring an and consistency, including as an ingredient in various authentic black kitchen (used for smoking meat) and a huge drinks, pralines, biscuits, muffins, ice cream, liquors clay furnace, for warming the charming dining room. Every inch and more. The festival includes a packed programme of of the interior and exterior is truly inspiring; you’ll find wooden both chocolate-related events, such as cooking shows, wheel chandeliers, antique farming tools, and even an ancient workshops, chocolate sculpting and even a chocolate pair of wooden skis hanging above the picturesque bar. The fashion show (with models wearing the stuff), and rustic farm food is all home-made and the atmosphere is entertainment for the whole family. The festivities take always merry and cheerful. Q Open 11:00-24:00 Fri-Sun, place in Radovljica’s main square each April. Mon-Thur by prior arrangement only. Full course home-made meal from about €10 per person. 6INBK Radovljica Festival Radovljica Early Music Society, Linhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 531 22 Krčma Mexico Begunjska 6b, tel. +386 (0)8 38 91, [email protected], www.festival-radovljica.si. 70 644, [email protected], www.mexico- Radovljica has been a top destination for early music prebacevo-lesce.si/lesce.html. Who would have thought enthusiasts for more than 30 years, as each August that Slovenia’s best Mexican restaurant would be found near the town hosts two weeks of concerts by top musi- Bled in the village of Lesce? Definitely not us, but that’s the cians from around world, making it the longest running conclusion we (quite easily) came to after eating here for the festival of its kind in the country. Performances are first time. The brightly coloured interior is packed with a fine held in the magnificent Baroque Hall at Radovljica collection of the somewhat kitschy bric-a-brac that is more Mansion as well as in the Church of St Peter nearby, or less required of any good Mexican eatery, and the portions and each year at least one concert usually also takes are so large that even the most famished American will have place at the Church of the Annunciation in the town trouble saving room for dessert - and speaking of dessert, do of Veselovo near Kranj, which boasts one of the fin- try the home-made crêpes, made with your choice of some est pipe organs in Slovenia. In addition to the formal 40 fillings! Highly recommended. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00- early music concerts, the diverse festival programme 23:00, Sat 11:30-23:00 and Sun 11:30-22:00. (€6.50-15). also includes contemporary music, theatre and dance PTALBS performances. During the events there is a free fes- tival bus that brings guests to Radovljica from Kranj Krek Hraška 15, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)45 30 23 45, and Ljubljana. [email protected], www.krek.si. Sit on the roof terrace at the Krek and enjoy home-made ice cream as you sit back and Summer Concert Series Linhartov Trg. Every think that life is quite wonderful. In these surroundings and Thursday during July there are live open air concerts with these views they could get away with serving anything held on the main square starting at 20:00. In August here; instead they come up with a wide range of great local every Thursday you can hear Slovene folk music and dishes, with pork and lamb to the fore. Choose from the long watch couple wearing traditional costumes dance the line of them placed on the buffet counter at this self-service night away starting at 18:00. Q Admission free. Shopping the old-fashioned way on Linhart Square restaurant. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. AULB

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Vila Podvin Mošnje 1, tel. +386 (0)41 747 636, vi- 16th century. Back in medieval times they were considered [email protected], www.vilapodvin.si. Just opened prestigious gestures of romance, these days they make great Kropa in June 2013, Vila Podvin is set in a beautifully restored gifts and can be personalised. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed 14th-century castle some 2km east of Radovljica, and Tue. Open every day in July and August. just a short drive north of Ljubljana. There are seven comfortable guests rooms and suites available, but the Linhart Square (Linhartov Trg)The town’s main real highlight here is in the kitchen, which is run by one of square is one of the best-preserved medieval squares in Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin. Renowned for trans- Slovenia, and home to the majority of its sights, the tourist forming traditional Slovene cuisine using modern culinary information office, several cafés and even a couple of ac- techniques, Štefelin prepares his own unique dishes with commodation options. Named for Anton Tomaž Linhart, an local ingredients and ample creativity. Already a popular 18th century playwright, historian and Radovljica’s most venue for weddings, the Podvin estate also hosts other famous son, who among other achievements penned private events, offers horseback riding and cooking work- the first Slovene comedy, the square is lined with historic shops, and even has a selection of souvenirs representing buildings dating from the 15th to 19th centuries and is a Slovenia’s rich cultural heritage. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. veritable open air museum of different architectural styles. Radovljica Mansion is a popular venue for weddings and Closed Mon. It was renovated and turned into a pedestrian-only zone a other important events couple of years ago.

Leščan Alpska 33, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)45 31 70 00, What to see Radovljica Mansion Linhartov Trg 1, tel. + 386 41 695 [email protected], www.bagi.si/pizzerija-lescan. 011, www.radolca.si. Originally built by the wealthy Counts of Perfect for lovers of big portions, the Vienna schnitzel Old Town Ortenburg in the middle of the 15th-century in what was then comes on an enormous wooden platter, definitely requiring Lectar Inn Museum Linhartov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)4 537 a small German settlement, nowadays Radovljica Mansion a break halfway through. Despite being a self-styled Italian 48 00, fax +386 (0)4 537 48 04, [email protected], www. dominates the upper section of Linhart Square and is one of the restaurant, the menu covers many European options. The lectar.com. Gostilna Lectar’s very own living museum makes centres of cultural life in the region. Expanded and renovated décor is Mediterranean, with lots of tiles and terracotta, the a traditional Slovene craft, gingerbread from honey dough. over the centuries, much of its appearance dates from the pizza wood-fired and the staff friendly. The location is ideal The hospitable family, dressed in everyday medieval clothing, mid-17th century, while the High Baroque façade was added in if you’re travelling to/from Bled by train with Lesce Bled sta- will give you a tour of the museum. Tools dating back over the early 18th century. In 2002, the premises were completely tion being just a stone’s throw away. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 100 years are still used to produce these uniquely decorated restored and refurbished with locally sourced materials, and it is The centuries-old tradition of iron forging is alive and PTALB cakes and the oldest preserved wooden mould is from the now home to part of the permanent collection of the Municipal well in Kropa Museum of Radovljica and the Apiculture Museum. However, the mansion’s single most famous element is likely the glori- This little village is a hidden gem tucked away in the Begunje na Gorenjskem ous Baroque Hall on the first floor, with sweeping views of the narrow Lipnica valley below the Jelovica plateau, a 20- mountains in the distance it is a popular venues for weddings, minute drive south of Radovljica. Kropa’s rich technical Sitting in the foothills of the spectacular Karavanke Avsenik Museum Begunje 22, tel. +386 (0)4 530 concerts and other events. heritage and unique preserved architecture led it to mountains and Kamnik Alps, Begunje na Gorenjskem, or 73 00, [email protected], www.avsenik.com. Q be the first settlement in Slovenia to be named as a just Begne to the locals, first appeared in the historical re- Open Tue-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun and holidays 10:00-17:00. Radovljica Municipality Museums Linhartov Trg protected cultural monument. Known as the cradle of cords around the 11th century. The village and surrounding Admission €1.50. 1, tel. +386 (0)4 532 05 20, fax +386 (0)4 532 05 Slovene iron-forging, the area was a busy industrial hub countryside is rich in natural beauty and cultural heritage 24, mro@siol. net, www.muzeji-radovljica.si. Under with numerous small scale foundries and ironworks including a number of significant archaeological sites. Museum of Hostages Begunje 55, tel. +386 (0)4 the auspices of the Institute of Radovljica Municipality operating between the 14th and 19th centuries. These At the heart of Begunje is the impressive Katzenstein Man- 53 33 790, [email protected], www.muzeji-radovljica.si. Museums, and only a short drive from Bled, there are five days things are somewhat quieter, though the stream sion and gardens, the onetime home of the Lamberg Counts Q Admission €2. separate historical museums. In the centre of Radovljica, is continues to roar and the occasional sound of a ham- the building also served as a penitentiary for women before the Radovljica Municipal Museum with a permanent exhibi- mer on anvil attests that the tradition of working iron the Second World War and then as an infamous Gestapo tion of the first Slovene playwright, historian and pedagogue continues. prison during the war. The mansion is closed to the public Anton Tomaž Linhart (1756-1795), the Museum of Apiculture On our first visit we were admittedly a bit sceptical apart from a wing which has been transformed into the which presents, among other things, the unique tradition of about how interesting iron-forging could be but we were Museum of Hostages, where displays detail the horrifying Slovene folk culture, and the Šivec House Art Gallery with a pleasantly surprised. The Iron Forging Museum makes experiences of the more than 11,000 prisoners who suf- rich collection of book illustrations and monthly exhibitions. it all very interesting with informative displays covering fered at the mansion. Also make sure to have a stroll through Eleven kilometers south of Radovljica, in Kropa, is the Iron the whole process of working iron as well as the social, the mansion’s gardens which house a magnificent pavilion Forging Museum, which recreates the town’s hundred-year- economic and historical development of Kropa. You can designed by the famous Slovene architect, Jože Plečnik. old tradition of iron work. And last but not least, some seven also find interesting examples of local contemporary Before taking residence at Katzenstein the Lamberg kilometers to the north of Radovljica, in Begunje na Goren- wrought iron and perhaps even a nice souvenir, maybe an Counts resided in the nearby Kamen ‘Stone’ Castle, which jskem, one can visit the Museum of Hostages, a memorial iron dragon, at the UKO Kropa wrought-iron shop. dates from the 12th century when it was built by the counts to the victims of Nazi terror during the Second World War. The village itself is also very interesting and picturesque, of Ortenburg. Located at the entrance of the picturesque See the institute’s English language website for directions, the old town is nestled along the banks of the gushing Draga Valley, it is well worth visiting the imposing ruins of opening times and admission fees. Kroparica stream and is full of well-preserved architec- the castle and climbing the preserved Romanesque tower. ture, including the grand old houses of wealthy foundry Visiting the ruins is free though be careful as you enter and Šivec House Gallery (Galerija Šivčeva hiša) Linhar- owners. It’s worth having a stroll around to absorb the climb at your own risk. The Draga Valley is the starting point tov Trg 22, tel. +386 (0)4 532 05 20, galerija@muzeji- quaint atmosphere and check out the decorative wrought for some excellent hikes up into the mountains and there radovljica.si, www.muzeji-radovljica.si. Part of the Radov- iron features adorning the buildings as well as the recent- are many other great walks nearby including themed trails, ljica Municipal Museum, the beautifully restored 16th century ly commissioned street furniture - all of which is made of check at tourist information centre for details. house is the town’s main gallery space, hosting up to a dozen iron and locally designed and wrought of course. In addition to its castles and mansions Begunje is also fa- exhibitions every year in the vaulted hall on the ground floor. mous for being home to Elan, one of the world’s leading ski Visitors can also see the ornately-furnished wood-panelled Iron Forging Museum Kropa 10, tel. +386 (0)4 manufacturers, and Slavko Avsenik, a pioneer of popular former living quarters on the first floor, which nowadays can be 533 7200, [email protected]. Q Admission Slovene folk music. You can purchase a set of award win- hired for weddings. Q Open Tues-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 17:00- €3 adults, €2 children. ning skis directly from the Elan factory and there are weekly 20:00 during July and August, 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00 folk music concerts held at the Avsenik Restaurant, or if in May, June, Sept and Oct, and 10:00-12:00 & 16:00-18:00 UKO Wrought Iron shop Kropa 7a, tel. +386 (0)4 you miss the show check out the fascinating little Avsenik Grad Kamen is one of several castles to be found in and from Jan-Apr, Nov and Dec. Closed Mondays. Admission to 533 7310, www.uko.si. Q Open Mon-Fri 07:00-15:00 Museum, which is found next to the restaurant. around Radovljica the gallery free of charge. Admission for the 1st floor €3/2 (till 18:00 in July-Aug), Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. for adults/children and €7 for families.

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around €100 all the way up to €750 (or at least there was last Around Radovljica time we stopped by). QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00-19:00, Beekeeping Centre (Čebelarski Razvojno- Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 15:00 - 19:00. Izobraževalni Center Gorenjske) Rožna Dolina 50a, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)8 38 57 164, cebelarski. [email protected], www.radolca.si. If you’re like Wine Shops most visitors to Slovenia you have a vague understanding Vinoteka Sodček Linhartov Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)4 531 59 that the country is famous for its traditional beekeeping 71/+386 (0)41 678 408, [email protected], www. practices and of course its honey, and you may have even vinoteka-sodcek.si. While the largely mountainous Gorenjska seen some painted beehive panels for sale in a gift shop, region is not one of the Slovenia’s major wine growing areas, but you’re not sure where to go to see a comprehensive that doesn’t mean that the locals are any bit less enthusiastic presentation of this fascinating field - at least this is the about drinking the stuff - as evidenced by this combination wine feeling we once had. shop and bar at the edge of Radovljica’s main square. If you’d However, with the opening of the Beekeeping Centre (or like a liquid souvenir there’s a fine selection of bottles from as it is officially called, the Beekeeping Development and across Slovenia, and there’s also the option of filling up multi- Training Centre of Gorenjska) in Radovljica in 2012, all the litre jugs for those staying at a nearby campsite or apartment. education, development, demonstration and promotional QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. activities related to beekeeping that you could possibly imagine can all be found in the same place. Learn about long history of beekeeping and see how honey gets from Sport & Activities the flower to the jar, and is nowadays used for a diverse range of purposes in addition to sweetening your tea. Panoramic Flights For most people the highlight of any visit will be tasting Alpski Letalski Center Lesce Begunjska 10, Lesce, the different varieties of honey, but many other activities, tel. +386 (0)4 53 20 100, [email protected], www.alc- workshops and short trips can be arranged with advanced lesce.si. There’s no better way to see the Slovenian Alps The Church of St Radegund and St Catherine has more than a few stories to tell, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture notice. Definitely one of the sweetest destinations in than from the sky. Panoramic flights from Lesce aiport near Slovenia Slovenia! Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-20:00, Radovljica start from only €90 for up to three passengers for Sat 08:00-13:00, and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun a quick tour of Bled, up to €270 for a one hour tour of Bled, and holidays. Bohinj, Triglav and most of the rest of the region. The municipality of Šenčur is endearingly nicknamed body of water also lends itself perfectly for some relaxation, ‘Potatoland’, as the fertile area surrounding the beautiful as visitors can enjoy refreshments and take in the lovely Kokra river is mainly used to grow spuds and a large part scenery at one of five catering establishments on or near Shopping Rafting of the population depends on agriculture and typical rural the shores of the lake. Tina Raft Prešernova 4, tel. +386 (0)4 53 00 870/+386 trade occupations as a means of income. This does not Second-Hand (0)41 646 255, [email protected], www.tinaraft.si. With imply that it is located in the middle of nowhere, on the Monument to the Potato Pipanova 1 The monument to Komisijska Trgovina Šparov’c Linhartov Trg 10, tel. more than 25 years in the business, Tina Raft can arrange contrary, it is conveniently close to Brnik Airport and Kranj, the potato is one of a kind and clear proof of the love Slovenians +386 (0)31 479 618, [email protected]. If you’re look- pretty much any water-based activity you’re interested in, as with Ljubljana also within easy driving distance. All told have for the humble vegetable, which is an essential part of a ing for some kind of offbeat gift or souvenir from Slovenia, then well as paintball, canyoning, zorbing and transfers. Šenčur offers beautiful nature and rural tranquility, while standard Slovene diet. The monument is centrally placed in this is the place to head. They’ve got everything you could not being far away from the major urban centres. the town centre, but easily overlooked when passing by. From expect from a small town second-hand store - and more! a distance one might think it’s a run-of-the-mill monument, but Old Yugoslav records, original paintings, antique tea sets, Sports Agencies it is truly unique in its historical significance as well as subject pre-World War Two bibles and all kinds of other trinkets and JMB Sport Linhartov trg 4, tel. +386 (0)41 227 798, What to See & Do matter. The monument was erected as a sign of gratitude to knick-knacks line the shelves - all with the prices prominently [email protected], jmb-sport.si. Organises paintball, Bvagne House Pipanova 2, tel. +386 (0)4 25 19 Empress Maria Theresa, who ruled the Habsburg lands in the displayed. If you want to splurge on something truly Slovene, rafting and ‘zorbing’, or rolling down a hill inside of a large 100. Noteworthy for being the last structure remaining in mid-18th century and reduced famine by giving the famous there’s a large selection of accordions ranging in price from rubber ball. or around Šenčur area that is representative of the classic imperial decree on 16 May 1767 that potatoes should be grown building style of the late-18th century. Typical is the large throughout Slovenia. This odd memorial was an initiative by farmhouse’s wooden first floor, and as a whole the building the municipality and the Association for Recognition of Roasted is considered an important element of the cultural heritage Potatoes as an Independent Dish. of farm architecture in the region. Currently Bvagne House is not in use, but the municipality is planning to make it the Museum of the Šenčur Pipanova 6, tel. +386 (0)4 25 cultural epicentre of the area in the near future. 19 100. This is definitely not your ordinary small town municipal museum. The top floor of the institution is dedicated to modern Church of St Radegund and St Catherine On the ceramics, boasting a unique permanent exhibition with contri- outskirts of Srednja Vas lie two picturesque churches with butions by international artists from nearly two dozen countries. a shared steeple located between them. The Church of St Different techniques and styles have been applied to articles of Radegund is the older of the two, and by a remarkable twist everyday use as well as to modernistic pieces of art. Around of faith a lightning strike that hit the church in 1961 revealed 80 pieces are currently on display in total, and the collection gothic frescos on the north wall dating back to 1440. One of is continually being expanded. The ground floor is reserved for the magnificent altars in this church is dedicated to St Stephen temporary expositions of the work of local and national artists. and the village people have restored the old tradition of blessing Q Open 17:00-19:00 Tues and Fri, 10:00-12:00 Sun. Closed horses on his name day. The gothic church of St Catherine is Mon, Wed, Thur and Sat. Free admission. just as interesting, especially notable are the beautiful series of eight paintings depicting the Station of the Cross. Visoko Walking Path Tel. +386 (0)51 273 476. The small village of Visoko is an excellent starting point for a nice Lake Trboje www.trbojsko-jezero.si. This artificial lake walk, horse or bike ride along the riverbanks of the river Kokra, was created in 1986 by the construction of a dam for the which boasts a wide variety of flora and fauna and runs for total benefit of the hydroelectric plant at Mavčiče, and is nowadays of 36km before meeting the Sava river at Kranj. There is an the habitat for numerous species of birds, fish and plants. educational and informative path which starts at the bridge over The amount of flora and fauna is impressive, but the lake the Kokra in Visoko and ends near the bridge at Hotemaže. is also suitable for recreational purposes, with fishing and Along the way you can find several signs explaining everything Learn all about Gorenjska’s apiculture heritage at the Beekeeping Centre in Lesce rowing being amongst the most popular activities here. The about what lives and grows in and around the river.

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Since 1959 the castle has been the home of the Loka Mu- What to see seum, which makes great use of the space to present a col- lection ranging from history and archeology to ethnology and Old Town natural history to fine arts and local crafts. Highlights include Capuchin Library Kapucinski Trg 1. Just north of the artefacts from the Palaeolithic Era, a copy of the founding old town across the river Sora is one of the most interesting deed in which German Emperor Otto II granted Loko and the sights in Škofja Loka: the 18th-century Capuchin monastery surrounding lands to Freising Bishop Abraham, scale models and its famed library, which houses the original manuscript of Škofja Loka’s development from the middle ages to modern of what is considered to be the oldest drama written in times, well-presented exhibitions of the town’s early guilds and the Slovene language. The monastery itself is quite new industries, and a great collection of modern art in a unique by monastery standards, having been built in 1709 it is basement-level exhibition space. The panoramic views of the actually the youngest such institution in the country. It was rugged snowcapped mountains in the distance, green fields just more than a decade after its establishment that Friar and forests all around and the old town directly below is worth Romuald penned his epic play The Passion of Škofja Loka, the price of admission alone. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed which was performed for the first time in more than two Mon. In summer open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00. centuries in 1999 and most recently in 2009. Based on Admission €3/5 or only €4/5.20 with a guide. the history of mankind from the time of Adam and Eve until the crucifixion of Christ, the production requires more than 1000 participants, and the next performance is scheduled Path to Puštal for 2015. A bibliophile’s dream, the monastery library also contains countless other priceless tomes, which comprise the largest collection of its kind in the country.

Duo Arts & Crafts Centre Mestni Trg 34, tel. +386 (0)4 511 24 60, [email protected], www. skofja-loka.com. This small gallery and working space can be found on the main square in the heart of medieval Škofja Loka. In addition to viewing and purchasing a wide- A panoramic view of one of Slovenia’s most photogenic towns, photo by Jana Jocif range of hand crafted items, visitors can also participate in workshops and various organised courses, or just observe one of the two resident masters at work during normal One of the oldest settlements in Slovenia, Škofja Loka business hours. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. (Slovene for Bishop’s Meadow) is a picture perfect medi- Arriving Closed Mon, Sun. eval town that is both one of the easiest and most reward- Only 26km northwest of Ljubljana and well-connected by ing day trips from Ljubljana. The incredibly well-preserved public transport, Škofja Loka is probably just about the Mestni Trg Unlike some other old towns in Slovenia, old town is the main attraction here, followed by the great easiest place to visit if you’re already in the capital. Buses Škofja Loka’s main square is still the active centre of the museum collection contained in the enormous castle depart from the main station in Ljubljana over 30 times city’s social life, where even during summer month locals There’s much more to Škofja Loka than just its (most) ensconced on the hill above. But the devil is in the details, per day (but only 12 at the weekends) between 5:20 and going about their daily business outnumber camera-toting famous castle and historic medieval town centre. While as seemingly every building, bridge and alleyway in the old 23:00 and will drop you just outside the old town in Škofja tourists such as yourself (and us). This fact, coupled with outsiders may think it slightly bizarre that the neigh- town has a story to tell, and it’s well worth engaging a local Loka. A one-way ticket is €3.10, and can be purchased the colourful façades of the buildings facing the long narrow bourhood just across the Poljane Sora river from Škofja guide through the tourist office to provide a more in-depth from the driver. Trains are almost as frequent (19 on square, have led the town to be affectionately nicknamed Loka proper is thought of as a separate settlement, explanation of the town’s intriguing history, culture and weekdays and 9 at weekends), cheaper (a weekend return ‘colourful Loka’. Most of the buildings on the square exhibit for much of its history Puštal was under the control legends than we can fit within the following pages - you is as little as €2.46) and faster (between 15-24mins late Gothic architectural elements and were constructed in of a different lord, and thus developed its own unique can also find out why the coat-of-arms somewhat bizarrely compared with 37mins for the bus), but unfortunately the the early and mid-16th century, as a powerful earthquake cultural heritage. Through the centuries the residents depicts an African man wearing a crown! train station in Škofja Loka is over 3km east of the old in 1511 destroyed nearly everything that had previously here, so-called Puštuci, were known largely for two very town gates, adding a 30min walk to your journey. If you been built. disparate cottage industries: comb making and frog come by car there is a large car park just north of the old The most notable individual building is likely Homan House, catching, the latter being found in a natural abundance town, but even this has a tendency to fill up with workers which sits at the far north end of the square. The imposing on this side of the river. Not unexpectedly, the Puštuci on weekdays. manor house is actually composed of three separate build- were subjected to quite a bit of good-natured ribbing ings, and once counted the painter Ivan Grohar as a resident from their neighbours on account of their professions, - his work Loka in the Snow captures the view from one of but they were known to give as well as receive, mocking Tourist Information the upper floor windows. Other points of interest include a the people of Škofja Loka for their traditional turnip very active cultural centre, a still-working cinema, several dish known as smojka. Tourism Škofja Loka Kidričeva 1a, tel. +386 art galleries and of course a so-called Plague column built Today the best way to take in the sights of Puštal is by (0)4 517 06 00/+386 (0)51 427 827, info@ after the last bout of Black Death in 1751 and dedicated to following the organised Path of Puštal, which takes an skofja-loka.com, www.skofja-loka.com. Don’t be Mother Mary. hour to an hour and a half to cover some 2km. Begin- deceived by the fact that it’s located in a former petrol ning at the southernmost corner of Škofja Loka’s town station, as Škofja Loka’s tourist information centre Škofja Loka Castle & Museum Grajska Pot 13, tel. square, it first passes several interesting historical is an essential first stop for all first-time visitors. +386 (0)4 51 70 400, www.loski-muzej.si. Dominat- houses along a quiet residential street, before cross- Packed with an assortment of multi-lingual brochures, ing the town below and visible from the entire surrounding ing the ominously named Devil’s footbridge over the maps, leaflets, guide books and catalogues, you’ll find countryside, Loka Castle is not only one of the finest castles river. The photogenic wooden structure got its name everything you need to explore Škofja Loka and the in all of Slovenia, but also houses one of the country’s most thanks to frequent appearances by the Devil himself wider region on your own, or you can have the cheerful impressive museum collections. in the immediate vicinity, but the area is now safe English-speaking staff arrange guides, tours and/or First officialy mentioned in the early 13th century, it served as thanks to a shrine to St John Nepomuk (the patron accommodation for you. The latter option is especially the administrative seat for the vast feudal estates that were saint of bridges) that has been placed in the middle of recommendable if you plan to visit any tourist farms under the domain of the powerful Bishops of Freising from the span. Now in Puštal, the the path passes several - which you definitely should. You’ll find it situated on Bavaria for more than eight centuries. As with the rest of the more historic houses, including the one of a kind Nace’s your right-hand side just before reaching the parking old town, the castle had to be completely restored after the House, before passing the impressive Puštal Castle Bibliophiles will definitely want to pay a visit to Škofja lots outside the old town walls. great earthquake of 1511, so the current ground plan dates and finishing high above the town on Hribec hill. Loka’s Capuchin Library, photo by Jana Kuhar from just after this time.

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Puštal Nace’s House (Nacetova Hiša) Puštal 74, tel. +386 (0)41 756 955/+386 (0)41 769 425, info@naceto- vahisa.com, www.nacetovahisa.com. In 1755, Ignacij Homan - who was known as Nace to his neighbours - had his home extensively renovated in the village of Puštal just across the river from Škofja Loka, and since then the house has remained almost unchanged. In fact, it is not only the best preserved Slovene homestead from this time Škofja Loka, but all of central Slovenia. Although the mid-18th century renovations gave the exterior an unmistakably Baroque appearance, evidence suggests that structure had actually been built some 200 years early, with rare late Gothic stone detailing in the cellar and two still functioning ‘black kitchens’ the most obvious testament to this. The Arrange a trip to Nace’s House, the best preserved 18th- interior still includes furniture and other personal objects century homestead in the region, photo by Jana Jocif collected by its occupants over the centuries, and is open to the public as a highly authentic ethnographical museum. Three Castles Path Connecting Loka Castle with the With advanced reservations groups can arrange to try a overgrown ruins of nearby Krancelj Tower and the so-called meal prepared in the 400 year-old oven. Q Open by ap- Wild Loka Castle hidden away in the hills high above the town, pointment only. Admission €2-3.50. the Three Castles Path is a great way to learn a bit about the history of Škofja Loka and enjoy a pleasant hike through the countryside and forests. Of the three structures, Loka Tourist Farms Castle is the ‘youngest’, dating back to only the late-12th century, while the other two were originally built during the previous century. However, only Loka Castle was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake that occurred in 1511. The marked path begins just outside the main entrance of Tržič is the so-called Venice of Gorenjska, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia Loka Castle, where there is an information board and map, as well as directions to Krancelj Tower, which is only a short walk Beautiful Tržič is situated near the ancient route that for tragedy all new buildings had to be built according to strict up the hill. The remains of the tower were largely forgotten centuries led over the Ljubelj pass and connected Carinthia regulations in the year following the fire. about until the middle of the 20th century, when excavation with the plains of Gorenjska. Nowadays the route over the Nowadays, on most of the old houses you can see steel doors works were undertaken by a team of Slovenian archaeolo- mountains may no longer be trodden (as travellers instead and window shutters, while the door and window frames are gists, who discovered many long-buried objects ranging from opt to use the tunnel which goes through the Karavanke made from a fireproof green volcanic rock known as tuff. Most medieval weapons and equipment to household items and mountain range), but Tržič has always profited from its loca- of the dwellings have a unique feature called jostle stone, these children’s toys. From here the path leads past a local farm, tion on this old trade route, and the town is still a regional were placed to protect the buildings from carriages which two abysses and into the woods, which is marked with a centre for trade and crafts. could scrape and hit the façade. The prevalent architecture is monument to Slavko Fils, an early supporter of tourism in Although a big fire destroyed a large part of the town centre classicist. Therefore there are many small details, for instance the area and founder of the pathway. in 1811, the population overcame this setback with financial portals decorated with rosettes and images of the all-seeing After some 20 minutes, the trail winds its way to Wild Loka help of Austrian Field Marshall Joseph Radetzky. He owned eye bearing the house number. Several of the old buildings, Castle, which is also known simply as the Old Castle. Even a mansion in the town and is immortalized by the famous which used to be tanneries and dyers, have characteristic holes after more than five centuries of being left to the elements, Radetzky March, which was composed by Johann Strauss just below the roof where textile and hides were dried. Situated the castle’s once mighty walls still remain partially intact, and Lunch at a tourist farm, photo by YMB and dedicated to this brilliant army leader. The town centre between the streams of the Tržiška Bistrica and Mošenik riv- offer some idea of the structure’s original size. A popular spot of Tržič has been protected since 1985 as a cultural and ers this picturesque town centre with its colourful authentic to stop for a picnic lunch, from here the path descends quite If you’re looking for the most authentic experience pos- historical monument and this is clear proof of its rich past buildings is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. The local quickly into the village of Vincarje and then leads back to the sible whilst in the countryside, a visit to one or more of and architecture, and due to its many little canals with tourist office offers excellent guided tours. starting point. In total, the entire route covers around 5km Slovenia’s officially recognised tourist farms is a must. bridges the town is often referred to as the ‘Venice of and takes about two hours to complete at a relatively leisurely In the valleys and hills to the west of Škofja Loka there Gorenjska’. A staggering 80% of the municipality of Tržič Museum of Tržič Muzejska 11, tel. +386 (0)4 53 15 pace. In addition to the info boards found along the way, the are over a dozen of these farms to choose from, most is considered a protected area as part of the European 176, [email protected], www.trziski-muzej.si. local tourist information office also has brochures with maps of which are situated within sight of each other near the Natura 2000 project, which aims to protect important areas Located in a well-preserved 150 year-old manor once owned by and more details about each of the sites. Stari Vrh ski resort. where flora and fauna can thrive. The town and surrounding the influential Pollak family, the museum presents a clear insight While the phrase ‘tourist farm’ may conjure up images area is an excellent destination thanks to its breathtaking into the cultural and ethnographic heritage of the Tržič area of masochistic urban dwellers paying their hard-earned landscape, rich history and cultural heritage. through a variety of exhibits. Crafts like shoemaking, charcoal money to willing be put to work getting their hands dirty burning, leather tanning, wheel-making, weaving and dyeing tending to animals or toiling in the fields, in most cases TIC Tržič Trg Svobode 18, tel. +386 (0)4 597 15 36/ +386 have a long tradition and were important means of income in Slovenia’s tourist farms are more akin to delightful little (0)51 627 057, [email protected], www.trzic.si. the region. The different guilds responsible for these professions rural guesthouses that also happen to be working farms. were very influential in Tržič and their legacy can still be seen today. They generally come in two categories, tourist farms The exhibitions in the museum paint a vivid picture of how these (turistična kmetija) and open door farms (kmetija odprtih What to See & Do traditional occupations were performed, as well as the living and vrat), with the only difference being that the former has Tržič Old Town Centre Tržič gained market rights in 1492 working conditions of the workers. Very interesting and entertain- both rooms and board, while the latter only serves food. and was a booming trade and crafts town, favourably located ing at the same time. Q Open 09:00-15:00, Wed 09:00-17:00. In either case, be prepared to enjoy one of the best meals near the Ljubelj pass which was an important trade route Closed Sat-Sun. Admission €2.90, children/students €1.50. you’ve ever had, with simple but incredibly flavourful connecting Central Europe with the Mediterranean. Originally food heaped on your plate until you can’t possibly raise the old town centre consisted mostly of wooden buildings, Dovžanova Soteska Gorge Just a short drive from another bite to your mouth. which turned out to be an important catalyst for an enormous Tržič in the heart of the Karavanke mountain range lies the Calling ahead for reservations (and perhaps directions) is tragedy in 1811, when a gigantic fire broke out devastating Dovžanova Soteska Gorge, a site of immense natural beauty. Watch the masters at work at the Duo Arts & Crafts not technically required, but strongly recommended. the town, resulting in the destruction of more than 200 build- Throughout time the wild Tržiška Bistrica river has cut itself Centre, photo by Jana Kuhar ings and the deaths of 75 people. To avoid a repetition of this deep into the limestone here, creating this unique spot and

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uncovering rich geological treasures. Since 1988, it has officially been a protected natural monument. A wide range Mauthausen Memorial Park Ivan Grohar of fossils and stones dating back to the Paleozoic era have been uncovered here and can still be found in and around the www.trzic.si. The park One of the lead- gorge. Most notable are fossils of the Schwagerina carniolica, is situated at the location ing members of a micro-organism which used to thrive in a shallow sea that where the Ljubelj concen- Slovenia’s Impres- covered this area and can only be found here. tration camp (part of Mau- sionist movement, It’s advisable to take the educational path, which leads past thausen) once stood. The Ivan Grohar led all the geological highlights and ends at the Exhibition and camp was built to house a stereotypically Educational Centre in the Dolina Valley, where the staff can tell the prisoners who were impoverished and you everything about the origins of the fossils and creation of charged with carving out a tumultuous life that this breathtaking landscape. Nearby is the impressive sight 1.5km long tunnel through was tragically cut of the Tržiška Bistrica river cascading down huge flint rocks the Karavanke mountain short at the age and some enormous limestone pyramids. Q Dolina Educa- range. Although there was of 43, just as he tional Centre open June - Sept on Sat, Sun and holidays, or also a small contingent seemed poised to by prior arrangement. of civilian engineers and gain wider recogni- workers, the largest part tion for his work. Ljubelj Adrenaline Park Pot na Bistriško Planino of the workforce consisted Born in 1867 in the picturesque hillside village of 10, tel. +386 (0)31 513 645/+386 (0)4 59 22 700, of political prisoners and Železniki might be known first and foremost for its historical Spodnja Sorica, which now lies in the municipality of [email protected], www.koren-sports.si. A visit to captured combatants, who were forced to work on the ironworks, but this hidden municipality is also blessed with Železniki, Grohar demonstrated a keen interest in art the adrenaline park is not for the faint of heart nor people tunnel in deplorable and inhumane conditions. Between many beautiful views, photo by Jana Jocif at a young age, but was only able to pursue his passion who have a fear of heights. You are guaranteed to find 1943 and 1945 the mostly Polish, French, Russian, in fits and starts after being orphaned and left in the yourself dangling, balancing and crawling several meters Yugoslav and Norwegian prisoners worked without any With some 7000 inhabitants Železniki is the main town care of the state. above the ground on this action packed course. Luckily respite on the strategically important tunnel. of the Selška Valley, and has a long proud history dating His first break came in 1888, when he was able to spend visitors are supervised by an experienced instructor, and Nowadays the site of the concentration camp, the only one back to the middle of the 10th century when the German the summer working in the town of Škofja Loka with a due to the nature of the track there are also some age and on Slovene territory, is marked by an impressive sculpture. Emperor donated it to the Bishops of Freisburg. It’s not local church painter, which led to a further opportunity height restrictions. The monument is in the shape of a skeleton with a heart, a coincidence that the town’s name is derived from the in Zagreb shortly thereafter. Then, after briefly being raising its arms to the sky accompanied by the inscription Slovene word for iron, as Železniki owes its existence to conscripted into the Austro-Hungarian Army, deserting St Anna Mine www.trzic.si. This once valuable source on the pedestal: j’accuse (I accuse). Across the road the the rich deposits of iron ore in the surrounding hills and and serving a short prison term, Grohar continued his of mercury has not been in use for almost a century and is foundations of a large part of the camp still remain and the related ironworks industry that dates back nearly 700 studies in Graz with financial assistance from the state. nowadays opened for guided tours. The mine was first ex- information signs specify the exact layout of the camp years. After graduating he opened his own atelier in Škofja Loka ploited in the 16th century and was used intensively for some and the function of the buildings. In the cellar of the nearby While the ironworks was shuttered at the beginning of the and befriend Richard Jakopič, who is largely considered four hundred years. There are several disused entrances to Koren restaurant is a memorial room with an exhibition 20th century, the town’s most recognisable sight is the per- the founder of Slovene Impressionism. the mine, along all of which visitors can see stones contain- consisting of the prisoners’ personal belongings, the tools fectly preserved smelting furnace that still stands defiantly Over the next decade, Grohar and the other core ing small amounts of cinnabar, the ore from which mercury they used and photographs of the camp and its detainees. in the main square - the only remaining structure of its type member of the movement enjoyed increasing suc- is extracted. Only one entrance is accessible, which leads The whole site is a monumental place and we would recom- in Europe and now a protected technical monument. cess and exhibited their works in cities across to a 300m deep horizontal shaft and ends in an impressive mend a visit to this historically important location. Nowadays Železniki is thriving once again, and is home to Europe, including Vienna, Belgrade, London, Krakow, limestone room inhabited by bats. Along the way the path several leading Slovenian firms, most notably the furniture Warsaw, Trieste and Berlin. However, Grohar was passes by many newly formed stalactites and little creepie maker Alples, and Domel, which manufacturers electronic never able to escape financial difficulties, and finally crawlies like spiders and grasshoppers, who have adapted motors and other components. The town’s museum, which succumbed to tuberculosis just before embarking on to a world without daylight. The tour takes you to the heart of Where to Stay & Eat details its rich historical, cultural and industrial heritage, a trip to Italy in 1911. Today, his most recognisable this eerie environment and is not for the squeamish. Koren Podljubelj 297, tel. +386 (0)4 596 22 75, www. is reason enough to visit, but the municipal region also works - including the Sower, which is also enshrined damo-catering.si. Koren is one of the last pit stop opportuni- extends high up into the mountains to the idyllic village of on the five cent Euro coin - can be found in the National ties before crossing the border with Austria and an excellent Sorica, which was the birthplace of famed Slovene impres- Gallery in Ljubljana. choice if you are a lover of tasty hearty cuisine. The restaurant sionist painter Ivan Grohar. The house Grohar’s family lived in is now a protected is charmingly authentic and the cosy interior is decorated with cultural site, with a small museum and gallery dedicated icons and photos of Tito’s numerous hunting trips to Podljubelj. to the artist on the ground floor. The place is managed The long-serving chef prepares every meal from fresh ingredi- Sightseeing by respected local artist Miro Kačar, who, along with the ents and uses only local products, thus guaranteeing exquisite, Museum of Železniki Na Plavžu 58, Železniki, tel. help of his son, runs very popular painting and music high quality dishes cooked with passion and served with a +386 (0)4 514 73 56, [email protected], www. workshops for both children and adults on the house’s smile. The menu offers a wide range of choices, including house zelezniki.si. Even for those who are not normally interested upper floors. specialities like wild boar goulash, river trout and lamb stew in ethnographical or technical museums (which is a group with buckwheat. The owners also rent out a wooden lodge for we somewhat shamefully admit belonging to), the collection parties, run a small hostel, which offers beds to weary travellers at Železniki’s town museum is a worthwhile stop if you’re and have an authentic Finnish sauna on their premises. QOpen passing through. The well-presented exhibitions are spread 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. across 12 rooms on three floors, and give visitors an in-depth overview of the region’s main products over the past 700 or Štorman Apartments Lom pod Storžičem 10, tel. +386 so years, namely iron ore, timber, lace and decorative cook- (0)41 786 269/+386 (0)51 667 693, kmetija.storman@ ies - a diverse offering if there ever was one! Other exhibits siol.net. Situated on an idyllic location with a grandiose include famous people from Železniki, a room dedicated to view of the Alps, this family-run farm boasts two brand new the national liberation fight during WWII, a functioning model apartments for tourists and a multi-media conference room smelting factory, and a huge machine that methodically trans- for groups. Each apartment is outfitted with all the comforts forms a spool of wire into paperclips - one at a time. Perhaps of home and accommodates up to four guests, who can also the only downside may be the lack of English, so make sure to take advantage of a Finnish sauna. There is also one more bring along a guide or someone who can translate, as nearly basic room for up to four guests, intended for single night everything here is in Slovene. Q April to October open stays. The owners do some small scale ecological farming Tues-Thur 09:00-15:00, Fri 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-14:00 Stegovnik Waterfall is one of the many beautiful natural and visitors are more than welcome to taste their homegrown (17:00 in July & Aug), Sun 13:00-17:00. Closed Mondays and A statue of painter Ivan Grohar proudly stands outside sights to discover in the unspoiled nature surrounding Tržič, asparagus and homemade honey and schnapps. The sur- holidays. November to March open Tues-Fri 09:00-14:00, his home village of Sorica, photo by Jana Jocif photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia roundings are perfect for hiking, cycling and sightseeing. Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Slovenian Alps slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013 80 Žiri Žirovnica 81

Located just a 10-minute drive north of Bled, Žirovnica sits in the picturesque foothills of Mt Stol, the highest peak in the Karavanke Mountains. Known as the ‘cradle of Slo- vene culture’, it seems like every village in this clustered settlement was home to an important historical figure of Slovene literature and culture, most notably Dr France Prešeren from Vrba. The region is also well-known for its long history of beekeeping which continues today, and the locally produced honey and particularly honey liquor are definitely worth sampling. The valleys and mountains surrounding Žirovnica are also popular with hikers and mountain bikers.

Žirovnica Tourism and Cultural Office Žirovnica 14, tel. +386 (0)4 580 15 03, [email protected], www. zirovnica.eu. What to See & Do Dr France Prešeren’s Birth House Vrba. Most visitors to Slovenia first encounter Dr France Prešeren as an imposing bronze statue in the heart of Ljubljana, although more than just being at the heart of the capital, Prešeren is at the heart of Slovene identity and culture. Described as the Shakespeare of Slovene literature, Prešeren’s poetry articulates the spirit of Slovenia and A border town between the First and Second World Wars, in the latter half of the 20th century Žiri became famous for its the Slovenes, and a stanza from his poem ‘A Toast’ is used as production of award-winning footwear, photo by Jošt Gantar courtesy of Picture Slovenia the lyrics for the national anthem. Born in Vrba in 1800, his birth house has become a popular tourist destination. If Slovenia is situated at the geographical crossroads of ings by local artists, most of which date from the past few The house was built in the 16th century though its current Europe - with the Alps, great eastern plains and Mediter- decades, as well as perhaps the most complete presentation form dates from 1856 when it was rebuilt following a fire. ranean all converging within its borders - then Žiri is at of shoemaking that we’ve ever seen. In addition to tracing Opened as a museum in 1939, Slovenia’s first protected the crossroads of Slovenia, which by our calculation the history of the craft, visitors can also see several large cultural site continues to attract thousands of visitors an- Sleepy Žirovnica is the birthplace of poet and Slovene makes this small town of just under 5000 inhabitants display cases of shoes and boots produced by the local nually. Whilst it’s mainly Slovenes who make the pilgrimage cultural icon France Prešeren, photo by Jošt Gantar the unofficial centre of Europe! While this may be a slight Alpina factory - including those worn by the first Slovene to here the museum offers all visitors a window into the life and courtesy of Picture Slovenia exaggeration, Žiri is set in an enviable location in a small reach the summit of Mt Everest, the pair of red ski boots times of this literary master, with its collection of 19th-century basin at the end of the Poljanska Valley, just a few minutes responsible for the company’s first Red Dot award in 2008 artefacts including Prešeren’s crib and an informative exhibi- Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Path The cultural heritage drive away from Škofja Loka to east, Vrhnika to the south and some unexpectedly elegant items of lady’s evening wear. tion of the great man’s life. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 path begins at the birth house of Matija Čop and snakes its and Idrija to west. Q Admission €2.00-2.20. - 17:00. Admission €2.50, children/seniors €2. way for 6km through many of the area’s quaint villages taking But Žiri wasn’t always in the centre of things, in fact, for in historically significant houses and churches. The path is a much of it’s history it has been a border town between the Primožič Gallery of Lace Jobstova 29, tel. +386 (0)4 Valvasorjev Dom & Ajdna Archaeological Park, pleasant walk or scoot around it on an electric bicycle avail- great empires of the east and west - most recently during 510 69 50, [email protected]. Žiri may be best known tel. +386 (0)40 618 756, [email protected]. able for hire (reservation required) at the Žirovnica tourism the period between WWI and WWII, when it was only a for its tradition of high-quality shoe production, but the lace- This mountain lodge 5km north of Završnica is the perfect office (located in Matija Čop’s birth house). Before setting off couple of kilometres from the border separating Italy and making trade also has a long history in the region - which is base for hikers setting off into the mountains and is a great check at the tourism office about opening hours of museums the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. In the years understandable given that it’s less than 20km from Slovenia’s place to try the local cuisine. Accommodation is also avail- on the route as many are open only by appointment. immediately following the Second World War, the borders undisputed lace-making capital, Idrija. The best place to view able, so don’t fret about enjoying a post hike beer or trying The first sight is the birth house of Matija Čop, a linguist once again receded and gave Žiri a bit more breathing this finest of handicrafts in Žiri is the small but well-stocked the local honey liqueur. (speaking a staggering 19 languages!), writer and Slovenia’s room. It was at this time that the town’s most recognisable Primožič Gallery, located just opposite the Church of St Martin A 30-minute walk from Valvasorjev Dom, the Ajdna archaeo- first librarian, as well as being a friend and mentor of France company, Alpina, began to grow from a small cooperative right in the centre of town. Boasting a fine collection of various logical park is one of Slovenia’s best archaeological sites Prešeren. From Žirovnica the path heads to Selo where you of local shoemakers into the international firm that it is lace creations and associated paraphernalia from the 19th and provides a window into late-Antiquity and Middle Ages. can catch magnificent views of the cliffs above the town, and today. A repeat winner of the prestigious Red Dot award and 20th centuries, the gallery also sells replica patterns Excavations have uncovered the remnants of an old walled the 15th-century fresco in the Church of St Cantianus is well for design, many of Alpina’s award winning models can be from the Primožič family archive, modern lace patterns and of Christian settlement, including 25 buildings and an early worth viewing too. seen in a special exhibit at the city museum. course countless pieces of lacework. Q Open Mon-Fri 16:30- church from the 5th or 6th century. The site sheds light on The next village is Breznica, birth place of Anton Janša an 19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00 and Sun by appointment only. the plight of early Romanised inhabitants who sheltered in 18th-century artist and pioneer of modern beekeeping, in- the region’s rugged landscape from marauding Germanic deed the first teacher of beekeeping by royal decree. Whilst a Sightseeing tribes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun reconstructed apiary sits in the place of the original, a number Žiri Museum (Muzej Žiri) Tabor 2, Žiri, tel. +386 (0)4 07:00 - 18:00. of the original beehive panels painted with traditional motifs 519 10 83. The main tourist sight within the town of Žiri are on display, and also make great souvenirs. itself is the well-maintained city museum, which is arranged Završnica Recreational Park Završnica (‘Zavrh’ to The next stop on the path is Doslovče, the smallest village thematically to present the main topics of importance for locals) shares its name with the stream that winds its way in the region, though keeping with the way of Žirovnica it the city and wider area. It is set at the far south end of town through this beautiful valley. In bygone years the valley was too is the birth place of a significant Slovene author and in what was originally a country manor house for the noble a hive of activity with the stream powering many mills. The playwright, Fran Saleški Finžgar. Those doing the path on families of Škofja Loka before being converted to a school and valley is also beautified with a reservoir that powered Slove- foot will enjoy the walking trail from Doslovče and Rodine, then finally a museum in 1970. On the ground floor there is nia’s first public hydroelectric plant. These days Završnica is which offers beautiful views of the country side and the Julian a presentation of Žiri’s history, including its time as a border a popular year-round excursion destination with opportunities Alps. Rodine dates back to the 10th century and it too has a town, and it’s possible to watch a short film on the topic with for mountain biking, horse riding, hiking and sledging in winter. museum dedicated to its famous local literary figure, author a voiceover in English. If you plan to take a tour of Rupnik’s line And if that isn’t enough, the valley also now offers visitors and playwright Janez Jalen. and its famous bunkers, we recommend making a stop here even more, with a new recreation park opened in the spring The final village on the path is Vrba, and while Prešeren’s birth first. Here you can also find collections detailing lace-making 2013. The Završnica Recreation Park includes a children’s house is the star attraction, the more than 200 hundred year and the events of the Second World War. See Žiri’s long shoemaking tradition first-hand at the playground, jogging paths with exercise equipment, volleyball old linden tree (Slovenia’s national tree) and village meeting The first floor holds a small but impressive exhibition of paint- town’s fine museum, photo by YMB courts and picnic facilities. place are also worth checking out.

Slovenian Alps slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com slovenian-alps.inyourpocket.com 2013 82 Maps

Arrival & Transport Situated at the historical and geographical crossroads of yond calling at both Kranj and Jesenice, where transfers can western, northern and southern Europe, it’s not surprising be made to local transport (ie trains, buses or taxis). A full that the Gorenjska region is well connected to the rest of the timetable and price info can be found on Slovenian Railways’ continent in all directions, as well as to all corners of Slovenia very user-friendly site at www.slo-zeleznice.si. via the capital Ljubljana. In this section we give some basic info on getting to the region from abroad, while more detailed By Bus info about getting to and from individual municipalities can Most of Slovenia’s international bus connections go directly be found in the relevant chapters. to Ljubljana, where transfers can be made to national bus operators. Prices and journey times from Ljubljana to the By Air major towns in Gorenjska are comparable to trains, but run Slovenia’s main international terminal, the Ljubljana Jože much less frequently at the weekends. With a little luck, time- Pučnik Airport (LJU), is located in the Gorenjska region just tables and some prices can be found on the official website outside of the village of Brnik near Kranj - making access to of Ljubljana Bus Station at www.ap-ljubljana.si. all of the cities, towns and sights included this guide conve- nient from most anywhere in the world. Lots of info for the By Car airport, including all onward ground transport options, can Driving is by far the most convenient way to get around be found at www.lju-airport.si. Alternatively, the nearby the Slovenian Alps, especially for those who would like to airports in Klagenfurt, Austria (KLU) and Trieste, Italy (TRS) explore the countryside outside of the handful of cities are also popular points of arrival for travellers headed to the and towns in the region. As with the rest of Slovenia, road Slovenian Alps, as they offer many connections on European are generally in good condition and well-marked, and if you budget airlines, while Venice’s Marco Polo Airport (VCE) is ever find yourself lost (and without a GPS device) friendly less than 2.5hrs away by car and has the best international locals are usually glad to point you in the right direction. connections in the wider region. The A2 motorway runs the length of the region, from the Karavanke Tunnel at the Austrian border to Ljubljana, By Train a total distance of some 72km. If arriving from abroad, Slovenia’s main railway line to western and northern Europe don’t forget to immediately purchase a vinjeta sticker for passes directly through the centre of Gorenjska, with most your winscreen, which is used on Slovenian motorways in international trains to/from Austria, Italy, Germany and be- lieu of paying tolls.

KRANJSKA GORA JESENICE

ŽIROVNICA

GORJE JEZERSKO TRŽIČ BLED RADOVLJICA PREDDVOR

BOHINJ NAKLO CERKLJE NA GORENJSKEM

KRANJ ŠENČUR ŽELEZNIKI

ŠKOFJA LOKA

GORENJA VAS - POLJANE

ŽIRI

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