Cenotaph Corner
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The Yorkshire Mountaineer Issue 365 May 2015 In this issue ... • An Everest Adventure at the time of the 2015 earthquake in Nepal • A letter of thanks to those who donated to a Nepal Earthquake Appeal • The Isle of Skye Meet May 2014 • Climbing the cliffs of Sron na Ciche and the Cioche • Adventures of a trans Alpine Babysitter • Messing about on Welsh Rock • Cenotaph Corner, a classic climb in Llanberis Pass • Birth of boulder at Hawkswick Crag and the adventures of John Howard, a former YMC member who climbed In Yosemite in the 1960s Newsletter of the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club - Founded 1941 The Yorkshire Mountaineer Editorial This issue is a ‘catch up’. A number of Guinness World record bid attempt writers sent contributions towards the by sitting round a table for a black tie end of 2014 and early in the new year dinner with a menu created by Sat. The and I am sure they have looked forward expedition was trying to raise £100,000 to their articles in the magazine. I am for Community Action Nepal, www. sorry to disappoint those who have everestdinner.com, and Hospitality promptly sent meet reports describing Action, www.justgiving/sat-bains. the YMC meets of winter and early spring 2015. Their stories will appear Regrettably the expedition was in the next issue. abandoned as it coincided within days of the Nepal Earthquake while the Congratulations to Ken Tilford for team was on the mountain. identifying most of the YMC members shown on the 1978 compilation There have been many appeals for featured on the back cover page of ½RERGMEPWYTTSVXXSEMHXLIVIPMIJIJJSVXW issue 363. There is nothing wrong with in Nepal. Martin Tetley (Membership ]SYVQIQSV]-X´WSJXIRHMJ½GYPXXSTYX Secretary) has received a letter from a name to a face from the past. The Kalsang and Susie Sherpa-Baer of photo is on the wall at the Coniston The Walking and Climbing Company, Cottage. Beverley, thanking the many people who have contributed to The Nepal 8LI WYFNIGX SJ XLI ½VWX EVXMGPI MW XS Earthquake Appeal- Solukhumbu YWI E GPMQFMRK XIVQ³E HMJ½GYPX TMXGL´ Region. The letter is reproduced in this It’s about a slightly different climbing issue. Many individuals in the club have adventure on Everest at the time of made personal donations. the Nepal earthquake earlier this year. The people of Nepal continue to suffer In this issue Sean Kelly has written from the devastation caused by the about the popular Isle of Skye meet in earthquake. May 2014. Andrew Sugden describes climbing on the crags above Coire Most days during the winter months, I Lagan during the meet. Tom Thompson visit a local leisure centre for an early gives an account of a visit to the Alps in morning swim. While there I have met summer 2014. a well known chef, Sat Bains, 2007 winner of the Great British Menu on Many in the club will have climbed in TV, and now a 2 Star Michelin Chef Snowdonia. Mike Bebbington recalls who runs a restaurant in Nottingham. how he climbed the classic route He is a regular early morning visitor ‘Cenotaph Corner’. The route is on to the gym and earlier this year was the north side of Llanberis Pass, 37m undergoing rigorous training for MR PIRKXL KVEHIH F ) -X [EW ½VWX an attempt on Everest. He and his climbed in 1952 by Joe Brown and team planned to get to 7,100m for a Doug Belshaw. Adam Wainwright www.theymc.org.uk 3 The Yorkshire Mountaineer Editorial cont.. Photo By: Tony Crosby 4 www.theymc.org.uk The Yorkshire Mountaineer Editorial cont.. describes his memories of climbing the The maps to use are 1:25000 Tabacco, route during the 1980s. maps 03,06,07,017,025, depending on which mountain area you visit. They Bev Barrat reminisces about a stone are available in many of the tourist and fall at Hawkswick Crag in the Yorkshire outdoor shops in the region. Dales. He also describes the adventures of deceased member, John Howard, Would you like to learn more about who climbed Half Dome in Yosemite in the geology of the Yorkshire Limestone, the early days of climbing, it has now and the landscape you hike over? If so become one of the world’s popular then you are invited to join a Yorkshire valleys for rock climbing. +ISPSKMGEP 7SGMIX] ½IPH QIIXMRK XS the Malham area. On the 26th July, a Girls in the club who would like to member of the Society will be leading a enjoy climbing in the sun on well party to classic localities near Malham. protected routes, please contact Please let me know if you wish to come Caroline Phillips, coziphillips@gmail. along. I have added this meet to the list com . Caroline is planning a trip to the of Summer meets. Italian Dolomites to climb Via Ferrata at a date in August this year. For more information about Via Ferrata read ‘Via Ferratas of the North, Central& Eastern Dolomites, The Yorkshire Mountaineer Issue 333, October 2009. For locational information read ‘Ski the Italian Dolomites 2015’, The Yorkshire Mountaineer Issue 363, November 2014. There are two excellent guides produced by Cicerone, Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites : Vol 1, and Vol 2. Start ticking off the climbs this summer and work through the grades. Any climber who has climbed on Yorkshire Gritstone or Limestone will have few problems, but you will need a good head for heights and sun tan lotion. www.theymc.org.uk 5 The Yorkshire Mountaineer Chef Sat Bains Everest Adventure In April 2015 the Chef Sat Bains, with a team of mountaineers, set out to climb Everest to 7,100m and while there serve a three course formal dinner. Information from Lynette Pinchess, Nottingham Post April 2015 The Nottingham Post printed a number In the chamber temperature, humidity of stories about the attempt by a two and altitude can be adjusted to starMichelin chef Sat Bains to raise simulate climates across the world, money for two charities, Community such as conditions likely to be Action Nepal and Hospitality Action encountered on Everest. All this effort (see editorial for contact information) was supplemented by long hikes in the Derbyshire Peak District. Chefs are a tough breed, but Sat, with advice from local Nottinghamshire Despite all this meticulous preparation, mountaineering experts, realized Sat before reaching the height of the LI LEH XS YT LMW PIZIP SJ ½XRIWW8LMW proposed dinner party, suffered life meant many visits to the local gym threatening high altitude pulmonary under supervision of a personal oedema which results in a build-up trainer, exercising in the environmental SJ¾YMH MR XLI PYRKW%PXMXYHI WMGORIWW chamber at Nottingham Trent GEREJJIGXXLI½XXIWXSJQSYRXEMRIIVW University. After early medical attention it took two days for Sat to be taken down the mountain to hospital in Kathmandu. The expedition was going to continue but then the earthquake struck Nepal and the attempt was abandoned. To have survived two such traumas, Sat considers himself to have been very lucky. 6 www.theymc.org.uk The Yorkshire Mountaineer Nepal Earthquake Appeal SOLUKHUMBU REGION Dear Martin, We will collect funds for this project (YMC Membership Secretary) until the end of May and then get them to the area and make sure they are Further to our previous message used appropriately; as you know the immediately following the earthquake monsoon season will start in June. in Nepal I can say the response has been staggering. We have been To donate to this fund you can make a reminded of the immense kindness and payment into this account generosity that people are capable of. It has also been so touching to hear Barclays Bank how people who have been to Nepal, Sort Code: 20-98-61 or know others who have been out there have been affected by the reports Account Number: 10539570 from Nepal. It is indeed a sad and very uncertain time for the people of Nepal. Reference: Nepal Appeal (please add your name / organisation) In the last week we have been contacted by numerous people and Or pay using Paypal through our organisations that are organising fund website at - raising activities. Many of these have http://www.walkingandclimbing.co.uk/ already donated to the Penny Appeal how_to_book.html and are looking at what more they can do. For example, there is a charity gig in Please include the reference Nepal York, a danceathon in Hull and a school Appeal (please add your name / sponsored poetry event in Sussex organisation) amongst the ideas we have been told (Please note that Paypal charges about. approximately 3%). We have also been talking to family and You can give whatever amount works staff in Nepal and it is overwhelming to for you and please know that 100% of know where to start with the enormity what you give will go to Nepal of the damage to the country. We have decided that we want to support three With love, schools in the Solukhumbu region that have been badly damaged and also the Kalsang and Susie villages in this region where many of our porters come from. This region is Kalsang and Susie Sherpa-Baer where the Sherpas come from and is The Walking and Climbing Company part of the Everest region. 16, Finkle Street Bishop Burton Beverley www.theymc.org.uk 7 The Yorkshire Mountaineer YMC Skye Meet May 2014 By Sean Kelly Attendees: Nigel Atkinson, Lawrence Farndell, Janet Hagen, Sally Harris, Sean & Sam Kelly, John Littlewood, Caroline Philips, Roger & Mel Shaw, Graham Smith, Bill Stevenson, Andrew Sugden, John Ward, Patrick & Tom Warren The Skye meet this year was moved to Despite mixed weather everyone was half-term to accommodate members in action today.