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A fling with spring There’s a new season in and everyone’s happier for it. The city is blooming right through to May with flowers of every imaginable colour, Inside from pink to purple wisteria and yellow tulips to baby blue nemophila. The sunny days and cool weather call for more time spent outdoors, so go for a walk through paradise – also known as a Japanese April – June 2020 garden – and then take to the water with either a scenic cruise on or a paddle down the rivers and canals for a unique view of the city. And don’t forget the food streets, on which you can enjoy a leisurely stroll while feasting on Japanese and delicacies. It certainly is a wonderful time to be in Tokyo. ÈDiscover springtime at its most beautiful in Tokyo on p22 Table for one How to eat well even when you’re dining solo PAGE 44 È KISA TOYOSHIMA Total devotion Specialist shops dedicated to a single craft PAGE 48 È FUJI SHIBAZAKURA FESTIVAL (SEE P27) KEISUKE The great Vitamin sea outdoors Go island-hopping along Venture into an actual jungle the Kanagawa coast without leaving Tokyo PAGE 68   È  PAGE 50 SEA CANDLE   È  È FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 10 Courtesy Calls 12 To Do 18 Guide to Olympics and Paralympics 22 Springtime in Tokyo 44 Eating & Drinking 48 Shopping & Style 50 Things to Do 56 Art & Culture 60 Music 62 Nightlife 64 LGBT 66 Film 68 Travel & Hotels 72 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when…

Cover Editor-in-Chief Staff Writers Editorial Assistant Staff Photographers Aya Ito Advisor ORIGINAL Inc. Art direction: Steve Nakamura Lim Chee Wah Mari Hiratsuka Youka Nagase Keisuke Tanigawa Phillip Huey Masashi Takahashi 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, , Tokyo, 150-0012 Contributing Editor +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Photography: Naohiro Tsukada Shiori Kotaki Designers Kisa Toyoshima Paul Clark Executive Vice President Marcus Webb Advertising and general enquiries: [email protected] Origami sakura: Origami Kaikan Tabea Greuner Yuki Masuko Administration Ili Saarinen Akiko Toya Sub-editor Jessica Thompson Chikako Fukui Ando Leo Kaku President/Publisher Kit Kriewaldt Emma Steen Zineb Bektachi Creative Solutions Aidan McFarlane Hiroyuki Fushitani Time Out Digital Time Out Group CEO Editor 77 Wicklow Street, Julio Bruno Kasey Furutani Saiko Miyasato Mao Kawakami Reina Iwabuchi London, WC1X 9JY Kaila Imada Founder Hisato Hayashi Naoki Shimao Hinata Matsumura www.timeout.com Tony Elliott +44 (0)207 813 3000

5 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo KISA TOYOSHIMA Tokyo Update

2 Tokyo COUNTDOWN ON THE TO TOKYO 2020 COVER Update The Olympic The Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games are just a few months away and the city is already decked out in its Torch Relay Olympic best. Get your cameras ready and snap a pic at these photo spots before the crowds gather in the summer. Starting on March 26, the Olympic Torch Relay will The Olympic torch relaybegin its has 121-day been journe y through all 47 prefectures, cancelled and will beconn rescheduled.ecting the country with community torch bearers. After kicking off the journey in Fukushima, the torch will FIVE THINGS pass through central all the way down south to Okinawa in early May, before looping back up to and finishing with a 15-day Tokyoites celebration in Tokyo. Æ tokyo2020.org

are talking JAPAN OLYMPIC MUSEUM While you have to pay to enter the second floor of the Japan Olympic Museum (¥500, 65 and older ¥400, free for high They may only bloom briefly, but cherry 3 4 school students and under), the first floor of the museum and the outdoor monument gallery are completely free. The blossoms are the symbol of spring in Japan. outdoor sculptures make for the best photo ops; they include Olympic cauldrons from the previous Japan-hosted After all, spring is the season for hanami about Games and the iconic Olympic rings. festivities, which see friends and family gather Æ4-2 Japan Sport Olympic Square Kasumigaoka, (Gaienmae, Kokuritsu-kyogijo, stations). tinyurl.com/ under cherry blossoms for picnics and other A new jewel TOTJapanOlympicMuseum. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). outdoor activities. The gorgeous sakura origami on the cover in Shibuya’s were made by the paper-folding experts at crown MARINE PARK Origami Kaikan in . They have Hosting the Olympic marathon swimming and triathlon hundreds of paper types in stock, ranging from 1 Miyashita Park is events and the Paralympic triathlon, Odaiba Marine Park the delicate single-coloured washi to hand- transforming into is one of the main venues for the Games. Overlooking the dyed origami paper, all of which come with a a multi-purpose water are the five Olympic rings – especially picturesque set of English instructions to help you create shopping and in the evening when they are lit up with the your own origami art. If you’re all thumbs entertainment and Tokyo Tower glowing in the background. After the when it comes to crafts, sign up for a workshop complex with a Olympic closing ceremony, the rings will be replaced with and learn how to create a paper crane, a doll

KISA TOYOSHIMA hotel and a rooftop the three ‘agitos’ – the official symbol of the Paralympics or even some slick, if impermanent, fashion Izakaya for vegans park with lush – until the Games come to an end. Get the best view from accessories including earrings and brooches. Izakaya, Japan’s version of the gastropub, is one of the best ways to experience the breadth of greenery – another Odaiba’s many waterfront walkways, or better yet, take a Æ1-7-14 Yushima, Bunkyo (). 03 3811 4025. Japanese food and drink in one sitting. However, vegans and vegetarians have often missed development in yakatabune boat tour for a closer look. origamikaikan.co.jp. 9.30am-6pm, gallery 9.30am-5.30pm, out on this quintessential Japanese experience – until now. Izakaya Masaka has opened in Shibuya’s massive Æ1-4 Daiba, Minato (Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station). tinyurl.com/ closed Sun & hols. Shibuya, serving beloved comfort food classics that are entirely meat- and dairy-free. makeover. TOTOdaibaPark Ætinyurl.com/TOTimasaka 5 Located in front of Tokyo Station’s Central Exit, the Olympic and Paralympic countdown clocks track SEE MORE K5 the days, hours, and even seconds until the opening Once the last place you’d go to have fun, this former bank ceremonies on July 24 and August 25 respectively. TIMEOUT.COM/ building from the 1920s has just been transformed into one The distinctly European red brick facade of the station 21The number of Studio Ghibli is a photo spot in itself and year-round you’ll see both TOKYO of Tokyo’s hippest hangouts. Between the boutique Hotel K5, 0. TORCH RELAY DETAILS ARE CORRECT AS OF MAR 10 movies that are currently amateur and professional photographers snapping pics modern Japanese restaurant Caveman, a Switch Coffee shop of the station and of Gyoko-dori, the gingko tree-lined streaming on Netflix the and a Brooklyn Brewery beer bar, there’s plenty to explore. world over, except North street that connects Tokyo Station and the Imperial What keeps us coming back is the inventive tea-based Palace. „Kasey Furutani America and Japan. We’re cocktails at Ao Bar. Æ1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). tinyurl.com/ KEISUKE TANIGAWA © K5 bummed to miss out. Ætinyurl.com/TOTk5 OLYMPIC TORCH: © TOKYO 202 TOTTokyoStation

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 6 7 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update

LIGHT UP COFFEE ONE DAY IN… This charming little café pours a mean cuppa with house- OPEN TOKYO roasted beans, which can also be purchased at the shop. Go For -free for the tasting set if you can’t decide – it features a fl ight of ramen, see three different drip coffees. Other menu items include lattes and Americanos, made with a different espresso bean each tinyurl.com/ Kichijoji day, as well as snacks like and puddings. TOTpframen Æ4-13-15 Kichijoji Honcho, (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 2094. lightupcoffee.com. 10am-8pm daily. Halal restaurants in Tokyo Tokyo’s western suburb of It’s not all tonkotsu ramen and pork katsu – Tokyo has plenty of good halal options, too. Kichijoji is close to the city By Mari Hiratsuka and Shiori Ito. Photography Kisa Toyoshima centre (with direct trains from Shibuya and Shinjuku) and ICHIEN HONTEN yet far enough removed for a Located on the bustling shopping street Nakamichi-dori, Ichien spot of tranquility, especially Honten is hard to miss – there’s usually a queue outside the at the lush Inokashira Park, shop. The big draw is the jumbo pan-fried gyoza (¥500 for fi ve) ZAKURO which go well with the satisfying shoyu ramen. Other This raucous little slice of Persia is tucked away in known for its iconic swan options include chicken and shiso leaf gyoza, miniature one-bite quiet, leafy Yanaka. Beneath myriad mosaic lamps and boats and cherry blossoms. gyoza and a premium pork variety. If the line looks a bit daunting, billowing sheets suspended from the ceiling, you’ll fi nd So don’t just come for the just get the gyoza and nikuman (steamed buns) to go. a mix of Iranian, Turkish and Uzbek cuisines served on nearby Ghibli Museum; Æ2-17-2 Kichijoji Honmachi, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 22 5919. wooden boards placed on the fl oor. 11am-9pm, closed Wed. Zakuro is not the place for a quiet meal, especially explore a little further during the nightly belly dancing show at pm. While and you’ll discover a cool the restaurant has a menu, the big draw here is the set neighbourhood peppered course customised on-the-fl y by the owner Ali to suit DO each table’s tastes. with stylish restaurants, cafés The  ‘super hungry’ lunch course comes and boutiques to keep you UPLINK KICHIJOJI with soup, stew (choose from chicken, lamb, beans browsing for hours on end. For some relaxing-yet-edifying downtime, head to the trendy or vegetable), , chai tea and dessert. Or try the Uplink theatre in the basement of Parco Kichijoji. It offers a range  dinner course cheekily named ‘you-can’t-fi nish- By Kaila Imada of documentaries, independent and art fi lms. Spend some time it-all’; an advance booking for three or more people exploring Uplink before your show, as the space also features an art includes a complimentary shisha session. gallery plus a gift shop with a range of fi lm merchandise. The snacks ÆYanaka Studio 1F, 3-13-2 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa (Nippori, Nishi-Nippori stations). here go beyond your standard popcorn and soda: settle in with craft 03 5685 5313. nippori-zakuro.com. 11am-11pm (last orders 10pm), closed Wed. beer and cola, house-made ginger ale, hot dogs, cookies and cakes. Check its website for the fi lm schedule. ÆParco Kichijoji B2F, 1-5-1 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 66 5042. joji.uplink.co.jp. Opening hours vary according to movie times.

SHOP MAJERCA This minimalist outlet only stocks what it calls ‘welfare’ items, or products designed and made by people with disabilities. The items in store, sourced from all around Japan, each have their own charm. Browse through artisanal ceramics and jewellery, children’s toys, hand-woven belts, camera straps and more besides. Many of the products come with a description of their provenance and the artisans who TURKISH RESTAURANT ANKARA ALADDIN LE MAGHREB CHANDELIER created them. SHIBUYA MIYAMASUZAKA Sitting just across the street from the This Nishi- restaurant has been dishing Æ3-3-11 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 The draw at this Turkish restaurant near swanky Hills shopping centre, up traditional Moroccan and Mediterranean 1623. majerca.com. 11am-7pm daily. is the lunchtime beef kebab Aladdin serves up Arabic and Iranian dishes fare since . You can tell the food here set ( ), which comes with (Turkish overfl owing with vegetables. Inside, the off ers an authentic taste of the region – many of with meat), shakshuka made with Iranian paintings on the walls and the wooden Le Maghreb Chandelier’s devoted diners work EAT & DRINK deep-fried aubergine and yoghurt sauce, and lattice at the windows give this place a real at the nearby Moroccan embassy. pide . If you’re not feeling like a feast, go Arabian Nights vibe. Kick back in one of the cosy booths and CAFE LUMIERE for the chicken kebab set instead, with bread, The  all-you-can-eat lunch buff et chow down on a kebab platter ( ), a plate This café takes kakigori shaved ice desserts to the next level CINQ soup and salad for just . (Mon-Sat am-pm) is great value. piled high with chicken and mutton. For a real by covering them in fl uffy meringue before lighting them on If well-designed homeware is what you’re after, make a Lunch deals aside, we also recommend Thin, crispy bread and shish kebabs are treat, get the lamb tagine ( ) – stewed in a fi re with a fl aming concoction of rum. It makes for quite the beeline for this zakka lifestyle store. Cinq carries all sorts dinner with a group of friends, since so much regulars, with other dishes changing daily. If mixture of spices, dried fruits and sesame show-stopping dessert, plus it tastes pretty amazing, too. of tableware and kitchen gear, plus fashionable clothing of the food here is meant to be shared and you’re in luck, you’ll fi nd the fantastic biryani for hours, the meat is so tender it falls apart at Flavour combinations range from caramel and strawberries such as socks and knitwear. It even has its own brand of there are regular belly dancing performances cooked in a dozen spices. With so many a whisper. to seasonal varieties such as rum raisins and apples with merchandise which includes metal coffee and tea canisters, on Friday and Saturday (pm-pm). Don’t options plus dessert, chai tea and coff ee on ÆYamatake Kasumicho Bldg 1F, 1-12-5 Nishi-Azabu, Minato fresh custard cream and mascarpone cheese. The menu cloth aprons and umbrellas. With items sourced from leave without having dessert – the chewy, off er, expect to leave with a full stomach. (Roppongi, Hiroo, Nogizaka stations). 050 5589 5919. here also features cakes and . around Europe and Japan, the shop is perfect for a spot of sweet dondurma ( ), Turkish ice cream, is ÆRoppongi Yasuda Bldg 2F, 3-2-6 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi lemaghrebchandelier.com. 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm, ÆHigashiyama Bldg 4F, 1-2-2 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji interior inspiration. a must. Station). 03 3401 8851. persia-aladdin.com. 11.30am-3pm, Sat, Sun & hols 12noon-4pm, 5pm-11.30pm. Station). 0422 48 2121. twitter.com/lumiere_cafe. 12noon-8pm, Sat & Æ2-28-3 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 26 ÆMiyamasuzakaoka Bldg B1F, 2-19-20 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya 5pm-10pm, Sun 5pm-10pm.

Sun 11am-8pm. 8735. cinq-design.com. 11am-7pm daily. PHOTOS BY KEISUKE TANIGAWA Station). 03 3486 7449. ankara.jp. 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 8 9 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo are not decided by the customer. content and price of the appetiser, with the drink. The the waiter will bring drink along with food. expected to order at least one it with hot green tea, you are your glass of water, or replace While the ff sta with your food at an izakaya. improper to only drink the with just water at a restaurant, it’s nose into it. the impolite to wipe your face with matter of personal hygiene. It’s and throughout the meal as a wipe your hands with before iced water. The towel, and given an table, you will be immediately Once you sit down at the dining TABLE YOUR ON IS WHAT KNOW LIFE INJAPAN Time Out TokyoTime April-June, 2020 to follow. the most important dining rules social faux pas, here are some of things. To avoid embarrassing maintain the natural order of customers are expected to help in a restaurant setting, where handled. This is especially true and how they are to be properly unwritten rules stipulate when their own defined places, and from shoes to cutlery have order and rhythm. Daily objects When the first drink is ordered, While it’s okay to be content oshibori or worse, blow your , a hot wet wet hot a oshibori, ohiya will gladly refill is often marked by is to to oshibori is Courtesy Courtesy , a glass of otoshi, or an otoshi Calls ohiya

dedicated dedicated storage lockers. with the toes facing out or in and put them at designated areas seating area, take o straw mats). Before entering the tables on Many restaurants have low EXPERIENCE COMMUNAL DINING THAT IS A REMEMBER or stab food with them. Japanese funerary rites – or lick both actions are associated with between two pairs of them – up in a bowl, pass food directly is o wooden drawer on the table. It chopstick rest, or stored in a little forget the chopsticks, laid on a and clubs. commonly used in bars of the ‘cover charge’ more izakaya, the restaurant’s speciality. For like edamame, or a sampler of that goes well with alcohol, It usually consists of something Of course, you should not ff ensive to put them straight otoshi is a replacement tatami (traditional ff your shoes

10 that the bill is settled at the table entrance. Only if a sign indicates next to the restaurant’s main but be paid at the cash register should be asked for at the table, pour a drink for yourself. The bill refill the person’s glass – never communal bottle of beer or sake, drink. If you are sharing from a person if they want another drinking glass is empty, ask the you see that your companion’s be considerate of others. If restaurant for the meal. desu’ as a show of gratitude to the end your meal with ‘ gratitude for the food. Similarly, word ‘ drink in hand. everyone at the table has their And it should not happen before sip of anything besides the precede people having their first ‘ words should not be forgotten. Kanpai’, or ‘cheers’, should While at the table, you should Before digging in, utter the Once at the table, certain itadakimasu’ to show your gochisosama By Xiaochen Su a Japanese restaurant. cultured customer at How and apolite to be Table manners ohiya .

‘Mmmm…’ in restaurants the world over: of all, a welcome expression one of the most important words And while you eat, don’t forget restaurant’s recommendations. word ‘ order, simply utter the magic If you’re at a loss as to what to out ‘ raising your hand and calling should call over the waiter by rice or noodles, be ordered. the last dish of the meal, such as has had their fill should Only when everyone at the table and fish, should be ordered first. protein dishes, like salad, meat to eat. At an izakaya, fibrous and before you decide what you want should be ordered first, even a proper process. The drinks Ordering at the restaurant has ORDER TO HOW KNOW the money. will the waiter come to handle When ready to order, you sumimasen’ (‘excuse me’). osusume’ to ask for the shime,

AYAKO KOJIMA

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FILM which were originally used as THINGS TO DO ZUSHI FILM FESTIVAL undergarments, to the more EARTH DAY Every spring, this popular beach modern ones you see worn by Since starting in the US in 1970 in Zushi (Kanagawa prefecture) women at festivals and on special Earth Day has spread to 175 turns into an open-air movie occasions. The highlight is a countries. The annual Earth theatre. You can look forward hand-painted kimono from the Day Tokyo event in Park DO to live music performances, a 18th century – as the last surviving features stalls with eco-friendly merry-go-round, a skate ramp work by the famous Japanese traditional goods, handmade and a food bazaar. artist Korin Ogata, the item has accessories and food, plus live TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO ÆApr 24-May 6. Zushi Beach, 3 Shinjuku, Zushi, been designated an important performances and talks. Expect TO Kanagawa prefecture. zushifilm.com. Details TBA. cultural property. Every Friday and a massive gathering of eco- Saturday and over Golden Week conscious Tokyoites, and What’s in town from April to June   ART (April 29 to May 6), you can try on don’t forget to bring your own DON’T KIMONO: FASHION IDENTITIES a few of the kimono and even have shopping bag! FOOD & DRINK MISS Dive into the history of Japan’s your photo taken with them. ÆApr 18-19. Yoyogi Park Outdoor Stage, 2-3 Jinnan, VEGAN GOURMET FESTIVAL national dress at the Tokyo ÆApr 14-Jun 7. Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Shibuya. earthday-tokyo.org. Sat 10am-7pm, Sun Held in , Kyoto and National Museum. This five-part -koen, Taito. tnm.jp. 9.30am-5pm, Fri & Sat 10am-6.30pm. FREE. Tokyo, this fully vegan festival is exhibition features some of the until 9pm (last entry 30 mins before closing), a welcome celebration in meat- finest textiles, prints and designs, closed Mon (except May 4). ¥1,700 (adv ¥1,500), mad Japan. Expect a strong line- from ancient kimono from the university students ¥1,200 (¥1,000), high school up of around 70 stalls at Kiba Park, THINGS TO DO period (1185-1333) students ¥900 (¥700). which will sell veggie burgers, curries, burritos, doughnuts, Sanja Matsuri soft serve ice cream and plenty more. Every food stall will list the The traditional Sanja Matsuri, ingredients used (in Japanese), known as one of the Three Great so you can be 100 percent sure that no animal was harmed in the Festivals of Edo (now Tokyo), was process of making your meal. first held in . This massive ÆApr 19. Kiba Park, 4-6-1 Hirano, Koto. three-day spectacle draws over a veganfes.com. 10am-4pm. FREE. million visitors to every FOOD & DRINK year and celebrates the three men JAPANESE WHISKY FESTIVAL 2020 who founded the neighbourhood’s FOOD & DRINK Japanese whisky is some of the famous Sensoji Temple. You can CRAFT SAKE WEEK most sought after booze in the Looking to get into sake? Join world, yet highball-happy Japan expect processions and traditional Craft Sake Week at Roppongi has never had a festival dedicated dance performances, culminating Hills and learn more about to its own whisky – until now. The in the festival highlight when three Japan’s national drink. Each day first Japanese Whisky Festival of the event features a different will be held in Ebisu on April 12. huge mikoshi (portable shrines) selection of sake from the 130 It’s limited to 1,000 people, and are shuttled through the streets participating breweries. Whether tickets are on sale online now, by local residents. you’re a sake newbie or long-time so don’t assume you’ll be able to ÆMay 15-17. Asakusa Shrine, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. connoisseur, this boozy bash is snag one at the door. Expect 22 asakusajinja.jp/english. FREE. for everyone to enjoy. Foodies booths including the big three should also take note, as a number distilleries, Kirin, Suntory and of gourmet restaurants will whip Nikka, as well as craft distillers up sake-pairing dishes during the like Kanosuke, Saburomaru and festivities. Wakatsuru. ÆApr 17-29. , 6-9-1 Roppongi, ÆApr 12. Ebis 303 3F, 1-20-8 Ebisu, Shibuya. Minato. craftsakeweek.com. 12noon-9pm (last whiskyfestival.jp. ¥6,500 (includes souvenir tasting

IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY. KOSODE (KIMONO) WITH AUTUMN FLOWERSEDO AND PERIOD, PLANTS, 18TH CENTURY. PAINTING TOKYO NATIONAL BY OGATA KORIN, MUSEUM, TOKYO orders 8.30pm). ¥3,600. glass and water bottle). APRIL way. You’ll agree when you see the Kawasaki, Kanagawa prefecture. tinyurl.com/ giant mikoshi (portable shrine) TOTkanamara. 10am-5pm. FREE. containing a variety of phalluses being paraded through the THINGS TO DO streets. Crowds will start forming TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE FESTIVAL as early as 9am at the shrine, but Tokyo Rainbow Week is back to the parade will only commence celebrate LGBTQ pride with a at noon. Don’t miss the Elizabeth number of events, including a Mikoshi, a less traditional float rip-roaring parade (April 26) that donated by the eponymous sees thousands of people gather drag queen club Elizabeth every year and take to the streets Kaikan, with a huge pink penis in fancy dress alongside colourful that certainly stands out in the floats. This year’s theme is ‘your a variety of booths by LGBT- THINGS TO DO crowd. Visitors can also enjoy happiness is my happiness’ and friendly companies, while a KANAMARA MATSURI (in)appropriately shaped candy, the festival hopes to unify Tokyo’s number of stage performances Better known as the Penis vegetables and decorations, all diverse communities, regardless and charity events take place Festival, this annual highlight while helping to raise money of age, ability, nationality or from April 25 to May 6. at Kawasaki’s Kanayama Shrine for HIV/AIDS prevention and gender identity. The main event ÆApr 25-May 6. Yoyogi Park, 2 Yoyogi- falls on the first Sunday in April treatment. will be held at Yoyogi Park over kamizonocho, Shibuya. tokyorainbowpride.com.

and celebrates fertility in a big ÆApr 5. Kanamara Shrine, 2-13-16 Daishi Ekimae, two days on April 25 and 26, with 11am-8pm. FREE. SANJA MATSURI: PIERRE JEAN DURIEU/DREAMSTIME

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 12 13 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo TO DO TO DO

THINGS TO DO prettiest when it’s wet. While – there will also be an activity area KURAYAMI MATSURI the flowers are out, you can also and kids’ park where youngsters The Kurayami Matsuri, or ‘darkness catch events such as concerts can have even more fun playing festival’, is a week-long event and pop-up shops, which are interactive games. at the Okunitama Shrine out in mainly held on the weekends. ÆJun 13-14. , 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. Fuchu. The festivities take place ÆJun 6-14. Hakusan Shrine, 5-31-26 Hakusan, toys.or.jp/toyshow. FREE. throughout Golden Week, with Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/TOTHakusan. 10am-4pm. float parades, performances and FREE. THINGS TO DO lots of family-friendly fun. We MILLION CANDLES AT recommend visiting on the evening THINGS TO DO ZOJOJI TEMPLE of May 5, when eight mikoshi OTAKU SUMMIT ‘Turn off the lights, take it slow’ (portable shrines) are carried A geeky event in for is the motto of the summer and through the shrine grounds to the those who love manga, winter solstices in Japan, when beat of huge taiko drums. Don’t and video games, this is a chance some people turn off the lights miss the spectacular yabusame for otaku (the Japanese term for in their homes for a few hours (horseback ) demonstration obsessive geeks) from around the and light candles instead. at 10.30pm on the same day. world to meet and attend panel Million Candles at Zojoji Temple Head to Zojoji Temple on June ÆApr 30-May 6. Okunitama Shrine, 3-1 Miyamachi, discussions and events with local 21 to bask in the flickering glow Fuchu. ookunitamajinja.or.jp/matsuri/5-kurayami. cosplayers. Meanwhile, the World a figure-eight movement is said to KIDS of candles on the temple steps. php. FREE. Otaku Conference will take place bring 1,000 days of luck. During TOKYO TOY SHOW Even Tokyo Tower, located just at Hareza Ikebukuro, featuring this time, the shrine also harvests This enormous toy convention behind the grounds, will be sessions with famous writers and the native Chinese lantern plants where you can test out the latest turned off for this event. While voice actors from anime, manga that grow on the grounds. The games and gadgets for free is every the candles are only lit at night, MAY and video games. plant’s ripe berries are said to kid’s fantasy, but luckily you don’t the event begins at 11am with ÆJun 27-28. Sunshine City, 3-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, protect children from diseases have to be a child to enjoy it. Have performances and pop-up stalls. FOOD & DRINK . otaku-summit.jp. Hours and prices TBA. and eczema, so visitors tend to eat a gander at some 35,000 products ÆJun 21. Zojoji Temple, 4-7-35 Shiba-koen, NIKU FES them just for good measure. If you from approximately 200 vendors Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTzozoji. Hours TBA. FREE. Bunkyo Hydrangea Festival

Niku Fes is back and bigger than MOMO/PIXTA THINGS TO DO feel like your luck is starting to ever with a theme-park-sized A THOUSAND DAYS OF WORSHIP – run dry, this is your chance to get a Æ meat festival at Komazawa Don’t bother traipsing all over MUSIC official website. HOZUKI FAIR booster shot. Note: The situation with the worldwide Covid-19 outbreak is still uncertain at the time of print. Some events might be cancelled or postponed. Olympic Park during Golden Tokyo looking for the perfect buy MUSIC FESTIVAL Æ May 30-31. Various locations throughout At Atago Shrine’s annual festival, ÆJun 23-24. Atago Shrine, 1-5-3 Atago, Minato. Please check timeout.com/tokyo for the latest updates. Week. This decidedly carnivorous – the Outlet Jamboree gathers Organised by renowned music Roppongi. roppongiartnight.com/2020. FREE. stepping through a ring of reeds in atago-jinja.com/event. 9am-8pm. FREE. event offers meat dishes of all a wide range of suppliers and producer Seiji Kameda, this free kinds, from premium beef steaks shops in one place, who peddle outdoor festival will feature to surf and turf – surprisingly, you their wares at reasonable prices. dozens of live performances can even get vegetarian burgers We’re sure you’ll find some from the likes of the Kameda-led JUNE made with mock meat. Entry is unique pieces that aren’t on sale Music Park Orchestra, Japanese 123,0#%(,*,&#"4,+#/0, free, but to get your meat fix, you’ll elsewhere. Keep your eyes peeled pop group Dreams Come True, FOOD & DRINK need to buy meal tickets for ¥700 for bargains. world-famous guitarist and singer GREAT JAPAN BEER FESTIVAL each at the festival grounds. ÆMay 22-24. TOC Bldg 13F (Hall A1 & Miyavi and local rapper Kreva. From humble beginnings in 1998, ÆMay 1-6. Komazawa Olympic Park, 1-1 A2), 7-22-17 Nishi-Gotanda, . jamboree. Don’t miss the chance to apply for the Great Japan Beer Festival, or Komazawa-koen, . nikufes.jp. 10am-9pm mds-japan.co.jp/outlet. 10am-5pm (May 24 until free tickets online. BeerFes to its fans, has become !"#$%&'("&)#"#)"*%(("+# (last day until 8pm). FREE. 4pm). ¥300 (cash only), FREE for primary school The live gigs will be the largest craft beer celebration students and younger children. complemented by a roster of in the country. This year’s event is MUSIC workshops, which are also free to expected to attract around 5,500 LOVE SUPREME JAZZ FESTIVAL attend. You can shop for musical attendees ready to sample the #$,"-).)#"-,(#+/0+&# One of the UK’s most popular instruments, and if you feel best craft beers Japan has to offer. !"#$""%&#'"&()%*"+,&*-)(&.%&-),"+/-.0'#,1&'20"&345&,*+""%,& music festivals comes to Japan peckish, head to one of the food In addition to domestic brews, Save for the first time and features stalls. This is your perfect chance the festival will also feature beer )%(&"6"%&7.00"+&+878#,1&.#9,&')+(&:%8$&$')#&-88:&)#& ¥2,000 jazz, soul, funk and everything to get a (free) taste of Japan’s from Europe, and Asia. $'"%&;829+"&<2--;&.=="+,"(&.%&#'"&>)$/(+8??.%0&@AA&B878#& on your ticket with in between. At Pit, music music scene. The admission fee includes a B",#)2+)%#&,'8$C&D"+"&)+"&<.6"&#.?,&'"-?&;82&=):"&,2+"& our coupon on fans can expect a spectacular live Æ May 30-31. Hibiya-koen, Chiyoda. reusable beer glass for tasting as ;82&')6"&#'"&<2--&"E?"+."%*"C page 13 performance by Grammy award- hibiyamusicfes.jp. 10.30am-9.30pm. FREE. many brews as you like. winning R&B musician Robert Æ Jun 6-7. Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20 Ebisu, Glasper, while those on a budget THINGS TO DO ART Shibuya. beerfes.jp. ¥5,200 (adv ¥4,800). At the Robot When the lights go We don’t want to spoil the plot for can enjoy free live jazz and DJ sets GREENROOM FESTIVAL ROPPONGI ART NIGHT 1 Restaurant, the 2 down for the first 4 you, but look out for a blink-and- at the Mifa Football Park – there’ll With the motto ‘Save the Beach, An annual nocturnal celebration THINGS TO DO show begins before act, get ready to keep you’ll-miss-it death scene in the second be plenty of snacks and drinks Save the Ocean’, this outdoor of all things creative, Roppongi BUNKYO HYDRANGEA FESTIVAL the show begins. time with the intense act featuring one of the main robot available, too. party at Yokohama Red Brick Art Night returns with a diverse Hakusan Shrine is, rather oddly, While you’re waiting taiko drummers – the antagonists – for those that spot it, the ÆMay 9-10. Toyosu Pit & Mifa Football Park, 6-1-23 Warehouse celebrates beach and line-up of outdoor installations, known as the shrine to visit at the bar before the dancing ‘deities’ and moment is surprisingly emotional. Toyosu, Koto. lovesupremefestival.jp. From 2pm. surf culture, with an emphasis on live performances, cultural when you have a toothache. main event, look ‘demons’ will smile and 2-day ticket ¥20,000, 1-day ticket ¥11,000, 1-day protecting the shrinking number exhibitions, talks and workshops. It also, even more oddly, out for the house wave at you if you do. The first two acts ticket for high school and university students ¥6,000, of usable beaches in Japan. The spectacular event takes over holds memorial services for robot band who will are absolutely be playing some 5 FREE for junior high school students and younger Attendees can expect art gallery the neighbourhood from dusk toothbrushes – but in June, Keep your eyes action-packed, but the children (must be accompanied by an adult). exhibitions, video screenings and until way past dawn, with the people flock here for a different smooth jazz for your 3 peeled for a show really saves the Book now! live music from the likes of MGMT, area’s art museums and galleries reason. With the rainy season enjoyment – though special appearance best for last, so make Shows start at 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm and 9.30pm on most weekdays and Tash Sultana, Asian Kung-Fu staying open until the wee hours. comes the flourishing of the set list varies SHOPPING in the second act by sure you still have energy weekends. Reserve your seats online or by phone. A standard ticket is ¥8,500, Generation, Oscar Jerome, Sigrid For some stunning photo ops, hydrangeas, and the Hakusan from time to time. OUTLET JAMBOREE – STATIONERY a pizza-loving, sewer- to cheer the massive excluding food and drinks. and Love Psychedelico. head to Mori Art Museum in the Shrine boasts over 3,000 of these AND HOMEWARE dwelling hero from your mecha and its smooth Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (). 03 3200 Revamp your stationery and ÆMay 23-24. 1-1 Shinko, Naka, Yokohama, early morning and catch the colourful blossoms. Worried childhood. dance floor moves. 5500. shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily. Show schedule subject to change. homeware collections at this Kanagawa prefecture. greenroom.jp. From 12noon. sunrise from its observation deck. about getting caught in the three-day festival in Gotanda. One-day ticket ¥12,000, two-day ticket ¥19,000. For the full programme, check the rain? Some say hydrangeas look

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 14 15 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo !"#$%&'($)$*&+,$-&.%$ !"#$%&'($)$*&+,$-&.%$ !""#$%#& '()$%#*+&

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O*'R)-#!6*8'6*'!0"'R#))6*8'S*6;"3+"'-?' !0"'.-6'&13+!'6*!-'?)-5"3+'#*7'!0"' )(+)()&0"*&76(/"<3+8&(D63'37):& ?X;JF;H.&R;?XWI;FF&YI&FAZP?&G;W?A[FXQ&;?&?PX&?YG&YI&;S&AS[FASX.&CNB\.&VAZA?;F& ASQ?;FF;?AYS&]&?X;JF;H R)-5"3+:'?)-5"3+'-?'#))'.6*7+'?)-#!'!03-180'!0"' 2"!#)+'?)-#!'#5#/='Q+'/-1'8"!'1+"7' 7#3.'3--$='P-19))')6"'7-5*'-*'!0"'$633-3"7' !-'!0"'+!3#*8"*"++:'!0"'.-6'+56$' ?)--3'#*7'-&+"3;"'!0"'1*6;"3+"'?3-$'&")-5'#+' ?#+!"3'#*7'?#+!"3'1*!6)'!0"/'!13*'6*!-' Æ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o TOKYO 2020 ,g Everything you need to know about the t By Kasey Furutani In a contentious move, the marathon and e race walking events have been moved up north to , which has a milder summer August is also prime matsuri (festival) The Olympics are not just a time to celebrate s in the spotlight, with climate. season in Tokyo and throughout Japan, and Japanese culture – they are an opportunity Tokyo hosting the first local temples, shrines and neighbourhoods for cultural exchange, and many of the , summer Games of the Have any new sports been added? will be hosting festivals with and participating nations will host hospitality decade, making it the cultural performances. Watch out for the street houses and festivals with events, food and y only Asian city to host Absolutely. Sport climbing, surfing, dancing fests Bon Odori and Awa- Odori in meetups. Most of the locations are to be JAPAN IS NOT AFRAID the Games twice. skateboarding and karate have all been added particular. confirmed but we know Team to break barriers. As the To accommodate to the line-up. And after being removed in However, do note that major summer events and Heineken have partnered up, and first Asian nation to host the growing numbers in and around Tokyo, especially the fireworks Switzerland will have a pop-up village on d the summer Olympics of visitors for this projects. All the hard are making a much-anticipated comeback. festivals and the Fuji Rock music festival, have ’s Cat Street. and Paralympics in momentous event, work will pay off come been rescheduled so they don’t clash with Tokyo has been What can I do besides watching the Olympics. (Fuji Rock is now set for August

a rebranded the country working hard, with sport? from post-war tragedy to redevelopments in make their appearance

futuristic powerhouse. Shibuya, constructing in Olympic Stadium. One of the most rewarding things about going e After hosting the winter a new Visiting Tokyo for to the Olympics is learning about the culture

Olympics in Sapporo station and increasing the Olympics and

foreign language Paralympics? Don’t fret Festival, comprising four big cultural events R Tokyosignage, am2020ong other – we havOlympicse your back. takingand place from AprilParalympics to September, will introduce traditional and contemporary have been postponed Japanandese culture to a globalwill audience. be held latest by summer 2021. For updates, check timeout.com/tokyo.

THE BASICS THE VENUES

When are the Olympics and the Where are the venues? easily accessible by train from the Tokyo What about open accessibility? Paralympics? city centre. Football will be hosted in six The Games are divided into two zones: the different prefectures (Hokkaido, Ibaraki, The Games of the XXXII Olympiad will be held What will the weather be like? Heritage Zone and the Tokyo Bay Zone. The Miyagi, Saitama, Kanagawa, Tokyo) and Metropolitan Government and other across the country, which will offer big-screen Heritage Zone, including Olympic Stadium water sports such as sailing and surfing will Softball and football matches will start on July sporting action as well as food and drink, (formerly the National Stadium) and Yoyogi be held near the ocean in Kanagawa and Accessibility Guidelines, approved by the special events and live performances. Summer Olympics were held in October. National Stadium, is inland and uses venues Chiba. The cycling road race will kick off in International Paralympic Committee. There As for sustainability, items such as podiums, Summer in Tokyo is notoriously hot, humid Tokyo, cover three prefectures (Kanagawa, will be ramps and accessible hotel rooms for uniforms, medals and the torches have been the Ariake Gymnastics Centre and Odaiba Yamanashi, Shizuoka) and finish near Mt Fuji. wheelchair users. Assistive hearing devices made from recycled materials. The Olympic Marine Park, among others, consists of the In a controversial move, the marathon and including induction loop systems, FM loops, Village has furnished the athletes’ rooms with But don’t worry, there will be ways to cope; man-made islands at Tokyo Bay. The Athletes’ race walking have been moved to Sapporo’s passive infrared emitters, captioning, sign What will Tokyo 2020 do cardboard beds, which can be recycled into after all, millions of people live through Tokyo Village is in the middle of the two zones, on the Odori Park to avoid heat-related illness. language interpretation and live audio differently? paper products after the Games. man-made island of . description services will be offered for those omotenashi, the measures to make life more comfortable for hard of hearing, while braille and large print humble and courteous Japanese hospitality spectators, including the potential use of CH I, THRUER Are there venues outside of What are the stadium rules? will be offered to the visually impaired. and relief efforts for areas in the Tohoku that has won over the world. If you need help, artificial snow to lower heat levels, allowing Tokyo? You’ll be able to share pictures on social media Olympic staff and volunteers have also gone there will be volunteers, both Japanese and spectators to bring one bottle of water into but keep video/audio recordings to yourself. for disability etiquette training. For more Events will also be held in neighbouring and earthquake. Tohoku will host baseball foreign, to assist you. Moreover, a friendly venues, and some dorky yet effective umbrella One non-alcoholic bottled beverage is allowed information, read the official Accessibility prefectures Saitama, Kanagawa and Chiba, and softball at Fukushima Azuma Baseball fleet of robots will greet visitors and assist with hats, in addition to adjusting event times to into the stadium to help you cope with heat- Guidelines at . LU STRATIONS: ZINEB BEKTA

Stadium – along with Yokohama Baseball security at the venues, among other functions. avoid the harsh midday sun. IL related dehydration.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 18 19 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo TOKYO 2020

WHERE TO STAY

What are the best The Oedo Line is also ideal for sightseeing, neighbourhoods to stay in? with the fish market, the museums to some of the sporting events finishing late at and old-school Okachimachi shopping night. We recommend staying anywhere along the street of Ueno, and the clubs of Roppongi and Tokyo’s loop line JR Yamanote and the Toei Oedo Line. Not only does it connect the Kabukicho all on its route. and Toei Subway lines are Olympic Stadium, the Tokyo Metropolitan If hotels in central Tokyo are booked up, or Gymnasium, the Kokugikan Arena and the exorbitantly priced, we recommend staying the Olympics. Train lines in Sapporo, Miyagi Olympic Village, it also gives easy access to in large cities with convenient train lines such and Ibaraki will offer special night services the Line monorail (transfer at as Ikebukuro and Yokohama, or staying out after evening football events. ). west on the JR Chuo Line for a taste of local The events in and around Tokyo Bay are life. Kichijoji, home to the Ghibli Museum and held along the Yurikamome Line, which Inokashira Park, and counter-culture hub will take you to events at Koenji, with its public art and vintage stores, (gymnastics, tennis, volleyball, cycling and skateboarding), minutes from Shinjuku. The Chuo Line also (equestrian, canoe, rowing), gives access to Shinjuku, Kanda, Tokyo Station (beach volleyball) and Odaiba-kaihinkoen and . Station (marathon swimming, triathlon). Odaiba, a man-made island in Tokyo Bay, What’s the train situation like? is home to the digital art museum teamLab Borderless, a giant Gundam robot, indoor Tokyo trains are packed at all hours of the day theme parks and shopping malls. The details are still being discussed, but it’s Tokyo 2020likely Olympics that during the Olympics theand trains will Paralympics have been postponed and will be held latest by summer 2021. For updates, check timeout.com/tokyo.

Can I buy tickets on the day? HOW TO GET TICKETS Maybe, depending on ticket supply. However, at the time of print, there are no announcements yet regarding on-the-day What are the ticket prices like? ticket sale. I don’t have tickets – can I still watch the Games? tickets through an Authorised Ticket Retailer (ATR; ). the Games as well as host concession stands, Can I still buy tickets? special events, activities and performances. These areas will be just as exciting; best of all, In Japan, a portion of the tickets have been entrance is free. Official live sites will be set up doled out via three lotteries for local residents throughout the country; Tokyo venues include Yoyogi and Inokashira parks. on a first-come-first-served basis to everyone. Tickets can be purchased online or in-person Æ Details on Tokyo 2020 Olympics and be official resale services in late May. Only Paralympics are subject to change. Check tokyo2020.org for the latest updates. website ( ) or an ATR.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 20 Cherry blossoms at Kunitachi About C-GEO/PIXTA THE ENDURING ICON of spring in Japan, cherry blossoms have come to be synonymous with CHERRY BLOSSOMS KUNITACHI the country itself, seasonally Usually end of March to early April Located in western Tokyo, Kunitachi is one attracting hordes of admirers train stop away from Tachikawa’s Showa from across the world. While The wondrous cherry blossoms, also known Kinen Park, one of the city’s top sakura spots. cherry blossoms generally flower locally as sakura, are worth a trip to Japan However, Kunitachi is worth a visit for its in mid-April, recent years have on their own. In full bloom, the pink flowers, pink blossoms, too. The main road leading seen them blooming earlier and often packed in dense clusters across far- from Kunitachi Station towards Hitotsubashi earlier, and they usually last no reaching branches, are so profuse they appear University is lined with large cherry trees, bloomin’ longer than a couple of weeks. to be giant pink clouds tethered to the ground which make for a scenic stroll while checking So if you missed the cherry trees by tangled wires. It’s a mesmerising sight that out the various shops, restaurants and cafés at peak bloom, fret not – there steals the show from everything else in the in the area. Walk up to some of the pedestrian are lots of other floral sights you vicinity, and Japan’s nationwide fascination overpasses for a breathtaking bird’s-eye view can find that are just as beautiful with the blooms inspires everything from of the street in full bloom. in their own way. And the best ukiyo-e art to desserts and drinks. ÆEnd Mar to early Apr. Kunitachi Station, 1 Kita, Kunitachi. part is, there’s always something Although cherry blossoms are thought of putting out its petals in Tokyo as being pink, these delicate flowers actually during spring, from late March vary in colour depending on the species; in The Kanda River is a lesser-known sakura right through to May. Tokyo they are usually light pink in colour, destination within central Tokyo that or white with a pink centre. You’ll find these gets relatively little tourist traffic. Take fleeting blooms across the capital, with the capital’s only remaining tramline, the popular spots like the River and Arakawa Tram (also known as the Sakura time Shinjuku Gyoen becoming sakura pilgrimage Tram), all the way up to Waseda Station and Cherry blossoms are not the only colourful spectacle in spring. sites for both tourists and locals alike. So for the river is just a short walk away. The scene a more relaxed hanami (flower-viewing) here is similar to that at Meguro River but Here are the season’s most beautiful florals and where you can experience, escape these crowds and head to with far fewer crowds. The riversides and see them in Greater Tokyo. By Kaila Imada and Tabea Greuner. one of our favourite lesser-known spots. the bridges will be strung with festive pink lanterns, and since the cherry trees here are Origami flowers by Origami Kaikan KAWAGOE SHINGASHI RIVER old, their sheer size and volume do make for a If Tokyo’s Meguro River is your usual go-to jaw-dropping impact when in full bloom. sakura site, switch it up this year by heading ÆEnd Mar to early Apr. Waseda Station, 1-23 Nishi-Waseda, Shinjuku. out to Koedo in Saitama’s Kawagoe city, also known as ‘Little Edo’ for its historical streets and buildings. Behind the Hikawa Shrine you’ll find a gentle river flanked by grassy banks and cherry trees. Expect a gorgeous pink boulevard at peak bloom, but the river is especially photogenic near the end of the season when the water surface is completely covered in the fallen pink petals. You can even take a slow boat ride along the river. Kawagoe Shingashi River ÆEnd Mar to early Apr. 2-11-3 Miyashitamachi, Kawagoe, Saitama Kanda River

(Kawagoe, Kawagoeshi stations). PICTURE CELLS/PIXTA

22 23 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

Showa Kinen Park SHOWA KINEN PARK TULIPS Usually end of March through to April

When we think of tulips, we usually associate them with the Netherlands, calling to mind football fields of the colourful dew-drops set against a picturesque backdrop of windmills. Well, good news: you’ll also find this highly photogenic scenery in Greater Tokyo, complete with the windmill. SHOWA KINEN PARK Showa Kinen Park in Tachikawa is famous for its year-round beautiful flowers. A visit in spring lets you enjoy its massive tulip garden with about 250,000 tulips of 284 varieties. Set amid lush nature, some of the flower beds feature flowing streams, which add to the appeal of the picture-perfect landscape. ÆEnd of Mar to end of Apr. 3173 Midoricho, Tachikawa (). 042 528 1751. tinyurl.com/ TOTshowa. Mar 1-Oct 31 9.30am-5pm, Nov 1-Feb 28 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols between Apr 1-Sep 30 9.30am-6pm. ¥450, FREE for junior high school students and younger children. Ashikaga Flower Park

SAKURA FURUSATO SQUARE ASHIKAGA FLOWER PARK Every year, the Sakura Furusato Square in Chiba hosts the Kanto region’s largest tulip festival. Here you’ll find more than 800,000 blooms of 100 different tulip types, complete with a Dutch-style WISTERIA reflection on the water’s surface is stunning. violet blossoms. windmill in the background for an added touch of authenticity. You Usually mid-April to mid-May You can also find a variety of wisteria tunnels, Æ End of Apr to early May. 5-31-10 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu (Chofu can even dress up in traditional Dutch costumes (¥1,000/45min) for a which are fun to walk through. Station). 042 483 2300. tinyurl.com/TOTjindai. 9.30am-5pm (last entry stroll through the colourful flower beds. Wisteria vines produce gorgeous - Don’t miss the park’s seasonal snacks and 4pm; Aquatic Botanical Garden until 4.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is ÆApr 1-26. 2714 Usuida, Sakura, (Keisei Usui Station). 043 486 6000. tinyurl.com/sfq2020. coloured fl owers that resemble dripping beverages, including a unique wisteria soft- hols). ¥500, junior high school students ¥200, FREE for younger children. 9am-4pm daily. FREE. beads and as such, they are often grown on serve (¥400) with a floral aroma. trellises or formed into a tunnel. It creates Æ Apr 11-May 20. 607 Hasamacho, Ashikaga, Tochigi prefecture a fairy tale-like experience as you walk (Ashikaga Flower Park Station). 0284 91 4939. www.ashikaga.co.jp. under the hanging violet, blue, pink or white Apr 11-21 7am-6pm, Apr 22-May 20 7am-9pm. Entrance fees vary on the blooms. condition of the flowers: ¥900-1,900, children ¥500-900, evening ticket ¥600-1,600, children ¥300-800. ASHIKAGA FLOWER PARK Ashikaga Flower Park in Tochigi prefecture JINDAI BOTANICAL GARDENS is one of the top destinations in Japan for For a more relaxed wisteria excursion, head wisteria. About 350 plants impress visitors towards Tokyo’s Chofu area, where the huge from mid-April to mid-May, but keep an eye Jindai Botanical Gardens is home to a large out for the 150-year-old plant, which features selection of fl owers. The end of April through hundreds of wisteria blooms dangling from a to May will see about 50 wisteria plants of 13 Sakura Furusato Square massive construct of wooden trellises. Come kinds in bloom, including an 85m-long and

SAKURA CITY night, the huge, mature tree is lit up and its 5.8m-wide trellis that’s home to white and

25 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

Chichibu Hitsujiyama Park

SHIBAZAKURA the entrance fee is ¥300. Usually from mid-April to late May Æ Apr 17-May 6. Hitsujiyama Park, 6360 Omiya, Chichibu, (about 20 mins walk from Yokoze and Seibu-Chichibu stations). Moss phlox, or shibazakura, is a beautiful 0494 25 5209. navi.city.chichibu.lg.jp. Park is open 24 hours daily; low-growing, creeping evergreen that turns festival hours 8am-5pm. into a giant fl oral carpet during the fl owering season. While pink is common, the fragrant FUJI SHIBAZAKURA FESTIVAL Seaside Park fl owers can also be found in various bright Another stunning spot to catch these fl owers colours including white, light purple and is at the Fuji Shibazakura Festival near Lake white with pink stripes, which are neatly Motosu in Yamanashi prefecture. This NEMOPHILA of different flowers including narcissus, view these tiny blue flowers. The ¥450 entry groomed and landscaped in spring. festival promises two national icons: you’ll be Usually from mid-April to early May tulips, poppies and sunflowers (they bloom at not only gives you access to the nemophila able to get a glimpse of these fl owers with Mt different times). but other seasonal flowers as well, including CHICHIBU HITSUJIYAMA PARK Fuji as a backdrop (weather permitting). The Nemophila or ‘baby blue eyes’ are small blue Here you’ll find roughly 5.3 million tulips and cherry blossoms. The baby blue Located about 80 minutes from Ikebukuro area features more than 800,000 shibazakura flowers which are actually considered a herb. nemophila flowers during the season and eyes are spread across a small hill opposite the Station via the Seibu Railway express train, in eight diff erent varieties over the spacious The plant grows close to the ground, and in they run up rolling hills, making for beautiful tulip fields and they’re surrounded by lush Chichibu Hitsujiyama Park in Saitama 2.4 hectare area. There’s even a Mt Fuji topiary spring, countless flowers turn entire areas scenery against the clear blue sky and the nature. The area may not be as large as some hosts an annual Shibazakura Festival. The showpiece covered in pink and white fl owers underfoot into a sea of gorgeous blue. nearby ocean. of the other nemophila spots in Japan, but park is known for its perfectly manicured and it’s a super-popular photo spot. The Æ Mid-Apr to early May. 605-4 Onuma, Mawatari, Hitachinaka, the fact that this park is within Tokyo makes shibazakura, groomed into many diff erent festival is scheduled for April 18 to May 31 this HITACHI SEASIDE PARK (). 029 265 9001. hitachikaihin.jp. it a convenient option for those with limited shapes, over the roughly 1.8-hectare area. year and it’s approximately a two-hour train One of the most popular spots to catch a 9.30am-5pm. ¥450 (price may vary according to season), FREE for junior time. There are around 400,000 shibazakura ride from Shinjuku Station. Entrance is ¥800 sea of baby blue eyes is Hitachi Seaside high school students and younger children. Æ Mid-Apr to early May. 3173 Midoricho, Tachikawa (Tachikawa Station). here in nine diff erent cultivars, with colours for adults (junior high school students and Park up in Ibaraki prefecture. The park is 042 528 1751. tinyurl.com/TOTshowa. Mar 1-Oct 31 9.30am-5pm, ranging from white and pink to blue. The older) and ¥250 for children. approximately 85 minutes by express train SHOWA KINEN PARK Nov 1-Feb 28 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols between Apr 1-Sep 30 grounds also feature local street-food stalls Æ Apr 18-May 31. Fuji Motosuko Resort, 212 Motosu, , (plus an additional 15-minute bus ride) from Showa Kinen Park in Tokyo’s Tachikawa 9.30am-6pm. ¥450, FREE for junior high school students and younger and souvenir shops. The festival this year is Minamitsuru, Yamanashi prefecture (). 0555 89 and it’s home to a number neighbourhood is another wonderful spot to children. scheduled to run from April 17 to May 6, and 3031. shibazakura.jp. 8am-5pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 26 27 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

YOU CAN’T QUITE put your finger on it but you know it’s there: the sense of calm and inner peace you feel upon entering a Japanese garden. Take a closer look at what goes into landscaping one, and the levels of intricacy involved might give you a new appreciation of these soothing spaces. The history of Japanese horticulture is partially rooted in Zen Buddhism, with the aim

of harnessing nature to create KUREMO/DREAMSTIME better environments to meditate Plants and flowers may seem in. Elements such as ponds and like the most obvious ingredients stones represent both physical in any garden tradition, but aspects of the earth and abstract the foliage chosen for these concepts relating to spirituality. landscapes is specifically A traditional Japanese garden selected to ensure that there will can be divided into four main always be colourful leaves or elements. Rocks are commonly blossoms to admire throughout used to create ‘mountains’ or all four seasons. The varieties of ‘rivers’ within a garden. Larger trees planted also have particular volcanic rocks that are long in meanings associated with them. shape are used to symbolise In ancient eras, evergreen cedar mountains whereas smaller and camphor were thought to stones are picked to form dry be the trees that were closest to ‘rivers’. They must be placed the gods because of how tall they to show their ‘best side’ to the could grow. For these reasons, viewer and rarely appear in these species can also be found even-numbered formations at most Buddhist and or regular patterns, arranged shrines. instead as single structures or The fourth category covers the in asymmetrical clusters so man-made features, also known they look more natural and less as a garden’s scenic elements. contrived. While gardens were originally Water is another element that designed for reflection, following features heavily in Japanese the introduction of the tea house gardens, for the sounds it makes as a common fixture, a modern as well as for its metaphysical style of garden design introduced cachet as a symbol of continuity. a number of elements to make the So alongside the stony, dry space more hospitable to visitors. ‘oceans’ and ‘rivers’, you’ll find Stone lanterns are often seen more literal small waterfalls and in gardens with tea houses, ponds, often filled with koi fish. placed to help guests find their While in Western gardens, water way to the entrance of the fountains might be taken as a structure. Stone water bowls token of artifice and humans’ were installed so that guests control over the elements, in could rinse their mouths, and Japanese gardens, waterfalls stepping stones were also added Shinjuku Gyoen capture water in its most natural to create pathways. Eventually,

EKATERINA SPIRIDONOVA/DREAMSTIME state. these functional elements also served as decorative flourishes and expert landscapers would ‘The history think carefully about how the placement of these objects would of Japanese add to the natural beauty of the garden. horticulture is Due to their asymmetry and HEAVEN IS A the meticulous approach to each partially rooted garden’s design, no two are alike – which is apt given that they in Zen Buddhism’ are also intended to reflect the transient nature of the changing seasons. Here are some of the most celebrated landscaped PLACE ON EARTH gardens in Tokyo, which offer particularly fine examples of Emma Steen explores the beauty and philosophy of all the elements that make up a Japanese gardens and recommends her favourites in Tokyo Houkokuji Temple traditional nihon teien (Japanese

VANESSAJOHL/DREAMSTIME garden).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 28 29 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Tokyo's best THE HIDDEN GEMS Japanese gardens Houkokuji Temple While a little out of the way, Kamakura is worth the hour-long train journey from Tokyo for its historical shrines and temples. Houkokuji Temple, in particular, is known for its small but beautiful bamboo grove where you can enjoy a cup of matcha with Japanese sweets (¥600). As you enter the forest, you’ll see three shallow caves that are said to be the resting place of notable Kamakura priests and including Ietoki and Yoshihisa Ashikaga. The path leading up to the temple takes you through a zen stone garden famed for its karensui (dry landscape) with intricately raked gravel. Æ2-7-4 Jomyoji, Kamakura (). 0467 22 0762. houkokuji.or.jp. 9am-4pm daily. ¥300. VOYATA/DREAMSTIME TRAVELLING-LIGHT/DREAMSTIME Shinjuku Gyoen Kiyosumi Teien Famous for its appearance in Makoto Shinkai’s hit anime ‘The Garden Characterised by its large pond, Kiyosumi Teien features footpaths

of Words’, the expansive Shinjuku Gyoen was originally a private that were designed to take you on a walk through the garden’s BENNYMARTY/DREAMSTIME estate before opening to the public in 1946. It boasts some of the most waterscape, which is alive with glittering koi fish, turtles and birds. beautiful gardens in the city. Each sector in the park has a different As beautiful as the boulders of Kiyosumi Teien are, their placement theme – there is a French garden, an English landscape garden, a around the garden and its three islands are no coincidence. Shipping botanical greenhouse and a momiji-yama (maple mountain) – to financer and Mitsubishi founder Iwasaki Yataro used his steamships showcase each of the four seasons. As such, the park offers a different to collect beautiful stones from all around Japan and decorated the experience as the season changes, but it’s especially popular for garden with them. Large stepping stones called isowatari are placed hanami (flower viewing) gatherings during cherry blossom season. in the shallower parts of the pond where you can admire the trees’ Tonogayato Æ11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3441 1461. tinyurl.com/TOTshinjukugyoen. Mar 15-Sep reflections across the water, something that makes the garden unique. 30 9am-6pm, Jul 1-Aug 20 9am-7pm, Oct 1-Mar 14 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). ¥500, ¥250 Æ3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). 03 3641 5892. tinyurl.com/TOTkiyosumi. 9am-5pm daily. Garden university & high school students, FREE for younger children. ¥150, FREE for primary school children and younger. Spring is the best time to walk through a bamboo grove and the forest at Tonogayato Garden is so lush that it’s a designated cultural asset of Tokyo. This garden in Kokubunji has a storied noble history: it was established between 1913 and 1915 on the grounds of a villa built for the vice president of the Manchurian railway, Eguchi Teijo, and was later KEISUKE TANIGAWA purchased by the founder of Mitsubishi, Iwasaki Yataro, in Okuma Teien 1929, who added a tea house Students of come to this garden, to the premises. Tonogayato’s tucked on the edge of the Shinjuku campus, in between beauty lies in the diversity of lectures for a quiet nap or to eat bento on the lawn. Some of its landscape, which features the gardens around the city ban visitors from crossing the a waterfall leading to a grass or eating within the garden, but this hidden green CRISFOTOLUX/DREAMSTIME KAZUKIYATUKO/PIXTA natural spring. oasis is here to serve the masses with whatever kind of rest Rikugien Garden of Denboin Æ2-16 Minamicho, Kokubunji (Kokubunji they need most, be it a quick snooze or an afternoon of While Rikugien is located in the metropolitan area of Bunkyo, the The Garden of Denboin is located on the revered grounds of Asakusa’s Station). 042 324 7991. www.tokyo-park.or.jp/ reading on the grass. garden concealed behind the walls feels miles away from the bustling Sensoji Temple. It’s said that the garden was built by Enshu Kobori, teien/en/tonogayato. 9am-5pm daily. ¥150. The garden features a traditional stone lantern as well as city. Rikugien gets especially popular in spring as crowds flock to the a well-known gardener, during the Kanei period (1624-44). Stone a pond of lotuses, but also has a statue of the philosopher glorious weeping cherry tree, which is lit up after dark. Autumn is just pagoda and stone lanterns are placed at various points to add to the Confucius and a traditional Korean bell donated by as scenic due to the abundance of blushing maple trees. Nevertheless, scenery. The garden, along with the residence on the grounds, is only graduate students to mark the hundredth anniversary of permanent highlights to be enjoyed year-round include the Fukiage open to the public in the months of spring so that visitors can admire the university and to symbolise the diverse ties among its Chaya tea house, where you can sip on a cup of matcha for ¥620. its tranquility just as the cherry blossoms are blooming. international scholars. Æ6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo (). 03 3941 2222. tinyurl.com/TOTgardenrikugien. Æ2-3 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3842 0181. tinyurl.com/TOTsensoji. Mid-March to early May Æ1-104 Totsukamachi, Shinjuku (Waseda Station). 03 3203 4333. 9am-5pm, closed Sun 9am-5pm daily (last entry 4.30pm). ¥300, FREE for primary school children and younger. 6am-5pm daily. ¥300. (and sometimes on rainy days). FREE.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 30 31 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo LEISURE CRUISES SEE MORE YAKATABUNE AMITATSU TIMEOUT.COM/ Centuries ago in Japan, yakatabune were the pleasure boats of TOKYO wealthy merchants, aristocrats and military leaders, and they were lavishly decorated, often with tatami mats and low tables for dining. Nowadays, these traditional wooden longboats are seeing a revival as private entertainment vessels for groups to enjoy Tokyo’s night scenery over food and drinks. However, this doesn’t mean yakatabune are off limits to casual tourists. Yakatabune Amitatsu, which has been in business

for over a century, also caters to couples and smaller groups on 1912/PIXTA HIT one of their eight ships, all equipped with a sky deck. Make a booking for the Odaiba-Skytree Cruise, which takes you from KEIHIN FERRY – Tokyo’s heritage centre, Asakusa, to the modern pleasure island FACTORY NIGHT-VIEW CRUISE Odaiba. The two-and-a-half-hour cruise comes with a bar and a The Yokohama cityscape is picturesque, but you’re really here for the Japanese dinner that includes tempura and sashimi, and there’s ‘Blade Runner’-esque vista in the neighbouring city of Kawasaki. The a vegetarian option, too (pre-book during reservation). Keihin Factory Zone, to be specific, is made up of massive industrial In spring, Amitatsu also offers a special sakura tour that takes units, power plants, warehouses and cranes set along canals – and you to some of Tokyo’s most picturesque riverbanks, all flanked come nightfall, the steely industrial zone is all lit-up, creating post- by cherry blossoms. apocalyptic scenery that looks like it’s lifted straight off a sci-fi Æ Asakusa (Azumabashi Pier), 1-23 Azumabashi, Sumida (Asakusa Station) or Harumi Pier, 3-1-1 flick. It’s a mesmerising sight, especially with the vista reflected Harumi, Chuo (Kachidoki Station). 03 3655 2780. amitatsu.jp. Hours vary, see website for details. in the water. The 90-minute night cruise departs from Osanbashi From ¥11,000, primary school children and younger ¥5,500; minimum booking of two persons. Pier, located between Yokohama’s Minatomirai waterfront and Chinatown. It’s a small group on a small boat that’s all the better for navigating through the narrow canals. Æ Osanbashi Futo Bldg 1F, 1-1 -dori, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa prefecture (Nihon-Odori Station). 045 201 0821. keihinferry.co.jp. Times vary monthly depending on sunset, closed Mon. ¥3,800. Reservation and confirmation essential, both via [email protected]. International tourists pay in cash on the day of the cruise; available seats can be booked until 12noon two days prior.

TOKYO NO KABA Every major city seems to have its own gimmicky duck bus, including Tokyo, except here it’s reimagined as the ‘Hippo of Tokyo’ (Tokyo no Kaba). Popular with kids, the journey starts on land in Odaiba and hits the water with a huge splash, with an enthusiastic SYMPHONY TOKYO BAY CRUISE tour guide narrating as you go. The bus-boat This is not your standard tourist tootle out-and-back, takes a leisurely journey through Tokyo Bay, but a relaxing sightseeing cruise that gives you a brand TOKYO passing Odaiba Beach, the Rainbow Bridge new perspective on the city. There are multiple sessions and the futuristic architecture of the Fuji from morning to night, taking you out to Tokyo Bay for Television headquarters. spectacular views of the iconic Rainbow Bridge, the Kids with shorter attention spans might FUNAASOBI MIZUHA bustling man-made island Odaiba – which is known for its prefer the short course, which runs for 30 A boat ride into the past, Funaasobi Mizuha introduces you to the city’s shopping malls and amusements – and . minutes (compared to the 45-minute regular history through the four main rivers in Tokyo: , Kamejima, You might just want to enjoy the cruise, but you can turn tour) and spends less time on land. Tours Sumida and Kanda. During the 90-minute tour, you’ll discover the it into a waterborne meal at one of the boat’s restaurants; run during daylight hours but adults will ancient stone walls of the old , historic bridges and railway- options range from French and Italian to Japanese ON WATER appreciate the sunset on the last tour of the related heritage sites, plus ancient waterways excavated about 400 cuisines and there’s even an international buffet. With its sprawling cityscape, it’s easy to forget that Tokyo day. It might be a trip catering to children, years ago, which go to explain how and why Tokyo is really a city of water. Otherwise, there’s a bar if you want to drink in the view is a city defined by water: there’s a bay to the east while but we’re all kids again when the bus-boat It’s an illuminating journey that reveals a side of Tokyo few visitors with, well, an actual drink. Park yourself on the open deck rivers and canals snake through the concrete jungle into splashes into the water. get to appreciate. There’s a knowledgeable English-speaking guide and watch the buildings parade past like an architectural Æ 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato (Daiba, Tokyo Teleport stations). 03 3455 on board and you can bring along food and drinks for a little picnic on catwalk show. the mountains. Here’s how to explore another side of the 2211. en.kaba-bus.com. Tours at 10am, 11am, 1.15pm, 2.15pm, the boat. Each reservation comes with a small souvenir and guide to Æ Sealine Tokyo, 2-7-104 Kaigan, Minato (Hinode Station). 03 6858 4506. symphony- metropolis through these scenic waterways. 3.15pm, 4.15pm (5.15pm April to September; short tour at 9.20am), Tokyo’s waterways. cruise.co.jp. Lunch 11.50am-2pm, afternoon 3pm-3.50pm, sunset 4.20pm-6.20pm, closed Wed. ¥3,600, children (four to primary school age) ¥1,800, Æ Nihonbashi Pier, 1-9 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Mitsukoshi-mae Station). 070 6476 9827. funaasobi-mizuha.jp. dinner 7pm-9.30pm. Cruise only, ¥1,600-4,000, children ¥800-2,000; meal or buffet By Tabea Greuner and Kasey Furutani infants ¥500; short tour ¥3,300, children ¥1,700, infants ¥500. Hours vary, see website for details. ¥3,900, primary school students ¥1,900, FREE for younger children. option from ¥6,100 (reservations essential).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 32 33 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

WATER ACTIVITIES KISA TOYOSHIMA TOKYO GREAT KAYAKING TOURS You’ve explored Tokyo by train, on foot, possibly even on two wheels – but what about on water? Tokyo Great Tours lets you travel by kayak and see the city from its canals and rivers. Beginner-level to advanced courses have kayakers paddling under historic bridges, beside train tracks and on the , where you’ll get an unparalleled view of Tokyo Skytree. At some point you’ll want to lay down your paddle, lean back and realise you’re floating in the middle of Tokyo. We recommend ‘Route C’ for beginners: you’ll paddle under highways and the historic Nihonbashi Bridge, and see Tokyo Skytree. You’ll also be a sight to behold yourself: wide-eyed salarymen will wave at you from bridges and fascinated children will point from boats. Hopefully you’ll stay upright for the duration – BOAT-ROWING AT but as an experience it’ll capsize your whole image of Tokyo. CHIDORIGAFUCHI Æ 1-3-2 Shinkawa, Chuo (Kayabacho Station). 03 4590 2995. tokyokayaking.jp. Tours on irregular dates, reservation only. MOAT From ¥5,000. The Chidorigafuchi Moat, north-west

of the Imperial Palace, is one of the PLODPRONG/DREAMSTIMENAVAPON most popular spots in Tokyo come YOKOHAMA SUP spring. And justifiably so: it offers a

romantic way to see the pink sakura CLUB CANYONS up close, as you can rent a rowboat Stand-up paddleboarding, or and paddle under the blooming SUP, has grown from its humble CANYONING AT OKUTAMA branches of 200 cherry trees along the origins in Hawaii to become an White-water rafting? Been there, done that, 700m long promenade, day and night. international sport. Home to and so last decade. Adrenaline junkies can We’d recommend the latter, though: Chinatown and the waterfront now immerse themselves in the water with one, to avoid the crowds and, two, the Minatomirai, Tokyo’s seaside only a helmet and a life jacket by canyoning, trees are all lit up at night. Don’t worry neighbour Yokohama has an a relatively new adventure sport that uses if you miss the blooms at their peak. SUP scene of its own, with the natural canyons as a real-life adventure park. The tail end of the cherry blossom Yokohama SUP Club, a school Tour operator Canyons offers the two-hour season is just as stunning, when the educating both beginners and Big Holy Canyon tour, where you’ll slide down moat turns into a pink carpet, thanks more serious SUP paddlers, and waterfalls up to 25m tall, zip-line down rivers to the fallen petals. hosting events and a monthly and jump off precipices from a height of six Æ 2 Sanbancho, Chiyoda (). 03 3234 river clean-up. metres, all in the middle of Okutama’s lush 1948. www.city.chiyoda.lg.jp/shisetsu/koen/073.html. The certified guides and nature (Okutama is just 90 minutes from ¥500 for 30min, ¥1,000 for 1hr; cherry blossom season instructors will teach proper central Tokyo). ¥800 for 30min, ¥1,600 for 1hr. form and paddling techniques Looking for a bigger rush? Combine it with so you’re not too sore the next a packrafting tour and speed down the white day. You’ll stand-up paddle down water of the . However, if you SPORTS CLUB ZAC the Ooka River, which empties prefer to ease into something less strenuous, SPORTS CLUB ZAC into Yokohama Bay, and see opt for the relatively milder Holy Canyon SEE MORE Morning workouts might sound drab while on holiday, but how about exercising famous sightseeing spots like the tour – the jumps aren’t so tall and you’ll have while seeing Tokyo from water? Sports Club Zac offers stand-up paddling (SUP) Landmark Tower and the giant time to chill in the river. Be aware that under- tours for beginners and advanced paddlers – you’ll give your arms and core a good ferris wheel Cosmo Clock 21 along 13s cannot participate in the Okutama tours; TIMEOUT.COM/ workout as you paddle through Edogawa’s Kyunaka River and get a rare view of the way. they can, however, join the rafting tours in TOKYO Skytree without the crowds. If you’re completely new to SUP, don’t worry – the Æ 2-166-1 Hinodecho, Naka, Yokohama , Gunma prefecture. shorter courses stick to calm waters. (Hinodecho Station). 090 3502 2701. Æ 54-1 Kawai, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (free shuttle available Æ Oshima Komatsugawa Park, 1-9-8 Komatsugawa, Edogawa (Higashi-Ojima Station). 03 6671 0201. zacsports.com. Tours yokohamasup-club.com. Irregular times and dates. from Mitake Station). 0278 72 2811. canyons.jp. Tours from May to

7am, 9am, 11am, 1.30pm. Irregular dates, reserve online or via phone. From ¥4,500. YOKOHAMA SUP CLUB From ¥5,000. Oct, irregular dates. From ¥7,500.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 34 35 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

MOOMINVALLEY PARK – the adorable white, troll-like creatures created by Finnish-Swedish artist – are the stars at this theme park right beside Metsä Village. Moomin-related landmarks are scattered throughout the park, including a fully furnished replica of the BIG Moominhouse. Opt for the one-day pass and you’ll get access to all the attractions. Everything at the park is family friendly, including the outdoor theatre with a live-

© MOOMIN CHARACTERS action Moomin story, and the Kokemus, a three-storey museum about Jansson and the origin of the Moomins. There’s also a treehouse playground, and older children can enjoy a thrilling zip-line ride – the 400m round-trip goes through the dense forest and over the lake. Don’t miss the world’s largest Moomin store, selling Moomin merch you never even knew existed. DAY Æ 327-6 Miyazawa, Hanno, Saitama prefecture (Hanno Station). 0570 03 1066. tinyurl.com/TOTmoominvp. 10am-6pm daily. ¥2,500 (adv ¥2,300), primary school students and children aged four and older ¥1,500 (adv ¥1,300), FREE for younger children. Zip-line OUT ¥1,500. Give in to the springtime urge to get out and about, and escape the city for these family-friendly adventure parks and attractions. By Tabea

Greuner and Youka Nagase © MOOMIN CHARACTERS

FUJI SUBARU LAND FOREST ADVENTURE Located at the foot of Mt Fuji, Subaru Land offers dozens YOKOHAMA of attractions for outdoor With three different courses, enthusiasts of all ages. Dog lovers this aerial adventure park is in particular should head straight both a workout and a day out. for the Touch and Feel House to The approximately 80-minute meet the park’s resident canines canopy course is family friendly, – you can even rent one (¥500 per and features basic high-ropes 20 minutes) and take it with you activities like zip-lining, to enjoy the property. crossing suspension bridges and Score a hole-in-one at the climbing rope ladders. The more miniature golf course that takes challenging two-hour adventure you through World Heritage Site course takes you much higher up replicas, get lost in the gigantic into the trees and even includes a

METSÄ VILLAGE © FUNABASHI HC ANDERSON PARK Named after the Finnish word for forest, Metsä Village is a wooden maze filled with riddles daring Tarzan swing. For the little large Nordic-themed park in Saitama prefecture. With free FUNABASHI ANDERSEN PARK and stamp rallies, experience ones, there’s a 45-minute kids entry, the park provides a calm, stress-free environment Named after the Danish fairy-tale author Hans Christian Andersen, a 7m-high jump on the Sky course offering simpler activities MOTHER FARM on the shore of Lake Miyazawa, with a thick, lush forest this vast green patch of about 40 hectares is one of Japan’s most popular Trampoline, or slide down the and extra safety harnesses. Meet friendly farm animals like sheep, cows, pigs, goats and donkeys roaming just across the water. Parents can relax at a café or shop for theme parks. There may not be any roller coasters, but the park boasts 50m Jumbo Slide. There’s also an If you prefer to stay on the around the fields of Mother Farm in Chiba. You can pet and feed the animals genuine Nordic homewares. a wide range of outdoor activities for both kids and adults, spread out obstacle course for dog owners to ground, you can ride an electric in selected areas of the park and participate in activities like horseback For something a little more active, hire a canoe and over five different areas. Children can explore massive playgrounds, show off their pets’ spectacular mountain bike on a riding. For first-timers, we recommend taking the Mother Farm Tour DX paddle around the lake. And for the kids, there’s the Panza conquer obstacle courses, visit a petting zoo, go on a pony ride, agility and jumping skills. adventure around the forest. (adults ¥1,600, children ¥900), where you’ll ride a tractor train through the Miyazawako – an adventure playground with a difference. participate in creative workshops or play in the water park in summer. Æ 6663-1 Kenmarubi, Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko- First-timers are given an optional meadowlands, giving you a fantastic view of Tokyo Bay. The tour is the only Up in the trees, thick woven nets are stretched out to create The two main areas are connected by a bridge crossing a central machi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi prefecture one-hour lesson to help them get way to feed the adorable alpacas and watch the sheep-herding up close. Don’t undulating platforms for kids to run, jump and walk on. lake surrounded by lush greenery, and you can take in the tranquil (Bus from Kawaguchiko Station). 0555 72 2239. used to the trail before heading worry if it rains – the farm has plenty of indoor activities, too, like milking These so-called ‘funmocks’ – that’s a disconcerting blend scenery by boarding a rowboat. The large windmill turns into an subaruland.jp. Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols out. With so much open space, it’s dairy cows, sheep-sheering demonstrations, and cooking workshops where of ‘fun’ and ‘hammock’ – turn into walls, floors, slides and Instagram cliché in spring, when the whole scene is surrounded by 9.30am-5pm, closed Thu; Dec-Mar 10am-4pm, hard to believe the park is just 75 you can make cheese, ice cream and from fresh milk. tunnels. It’s an ingenious play park in the sky, and they won’t colourful tulips. There are several replica farmhouses, based on the Sat, Sun & hols 10am-4pm, closed Wed & Thu. Apr- minutes from central Tokyo. The animals may be the main attraction, but Mother Farm also offers fruit want to come down. 19th-century buildings of Andersen’s birthplace, Odense in Denmark, Nov ¥1,500, primary school students and children Æ 1425-4 Kamishiranecho, , Yokohama, picking (strawberries and tomatoes from January to May), bungee jumping, Æ 327-6 Miyazawa, Hanno, Saitama prefecture (Hanno Station). 0570 03 1066. tinyurl. which is a sister city of Funabashi. aged four and older ¥900; Dec-Mar ¥1,200, ¥600. Kanagawa prefecture. (Bus from Nakayama craft workshops, and a flower field that’s open all year round. com/TOTmetsa. 10am-8pm daily. FREE. Canoe rental per hour ¥2,000, primary school Æ 525 Kanehoricho, Funabashi, Chiba prefecture (Misaki Station). 047 457 6627. park-funabashi.or.jp. or Tsurugamine stations). 090 4750 0720. Æ 940-3 Tagura, Futtsu, Chiba prefecture (bus from Kimitsu or Sanukimachi stations). 0439 37 3211. students ¥1,000, younger children FREE if riding together with parents, otherwise ¥500. 9.30am-4pm, Sat, Sun hols between Apr 8-Oct 31 and Mar 20-Apr 7, Jun 15, Jul 20-Aug 21 9.30am-5pm, fa-yokohama.foret-aventure.jp/eng. 9am-3pm motherfarm.co.jp. Feb-Nov 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5pm, Dec-Jan 10am-4pm, Sat, Sun & hols Panza 90 min ¥2,000, 60 min ¥1,500, children aged 3-6 ¥1,000, FREE for younger closed Mon (except hols and during spring, summer and winter breaks). ¥900, high school students ¥600, daily. Adventure course ¥3,800, Canopy course 9.30am-4pm. ¥1,500, primary school students and children aged four and older ¥800. children (primary school children and younger have to be accompanied by an adult). junior high and primary school students ¥200, children aged four and older ¥200, FREE for younger children. ¥2,800, Kids’ course ¥1,500.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 36 37 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo !"#$%&'($)$*&+,$-&.%$ 9:;$+<35$8$(<%=$*<'+$

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To burn off WILL those calories... KAMEYA HONPO Seasonal and seaweed The friendly staff here will guide you through the standard dango (rice fl our dumplings) varieties as well as some more o eat ones. For a savoury bite, try the WALK age (deep-fried) dango or nori dango, which are best washed down with a cold beer. On the sweeter side, there’s a colourful selection of dango topped with seasonally fl avoured shiro-an (white bean paste), such as yuzu in winter, cherry blossom and ryokucha (green tea) in spring, and chestnut in autumn. Æ 7-7-9 Shibamata, . 03 3657 6670. kameyahonpo.com. 9am-5pm daily. When you’ve had your fi ll of street eats, check MASUMOTO KAMEIDO out Taishakuten, an expansive Buddhist FOR Tamagoyaki temple dating back almost 400 years. There’s Masumoto Kameido is a popular local also Yamamoto Tei, a teahouse in a grand old restaurant, but it serves street food, TAKAGIYA mansion with stunning traditional architecture too. Look out for the bunch of fresh Kusa mochi and gardens. You should also try an old- Kameido daikon, a speciality of the Kusa-fl avoured sweets are a speciality fashioned ferry ride on the last remaining region dating back to the of the Katsushika area and they are traditional Edo-era boat; the journey will take (1603-1868), running under a stream of made from local yomogi (Japanese you across the Edogawa River on a famous FOOD cool water. Right beside it is a stand with mugwort), which is a popular passage called the yagiri-no-watashi. Masumoto’s street food off ering: age- ingredient in sweets for its distinctly mochi (deep-fried mochi basted in soy grassy fl avour and speckled green sauce and wrapped in nori) and sticks of appearance. Takagiya started out over Japanese-style omelette. The 100 years ago and sells a selection of On a mission to latter, called tamagoyaki, comes in two sweets including kusa mochi (¥170) – fl avours, regular and aonori (powdered mugwort-fl avoured mochi rice cakes experience Tokyo seaweed), and we recommend trying shaped like an English muffi n and fi lled through her taste buds, SHIBAMATA them both. with red bean paste. The confection is Wander down a historical Æ 7-7-10 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 6657 9889. lightly toasted, giving it a combination Jessica Thompson masumoto.co.jp. 9am-6pm daily. of chewy and crisp textures. pilgrim route and sample Æ 7-7-4 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 3136. takagiya. explores some of the local treats as you go city’s most popular co.jp. Café, 9am-5pm (last orders 4.30pm) daily. food streets Shibamata in Tokyo’s northeastern Katsushika ward food streets is one of the few remaining FRESH AIR, traditional examples of the shitamachi, streetscapes, colourful local Tokyo’s old working class characters, a relaxed stroll – enjoy neighbourhoods. With its small all these with a in hand traditional shops and nearly at Tokyo’s tabe-aruki (literally, 400-year-old temple, here you eating and walking) streets. Since can get a glimpse of the Tokyo it’s generally considered a social of yesteryear – and an authentic faux pas to eat while walking in taste of its food, too. Japan – save for when you’re at a Leading from Shibamata festival – these food streets are a Station all the way to the rare phenomenon in Tokyo, thus Taishakuten temple is the adding an element of novelty to Taishakuten-Sando, an old- the experience. fashioned street with back-to- TORAYA ISHII TACHIBANAYA OJIGI CHAYA Spring is the ideal time to enjoy back shops – some dating back Kusa dango Butter-grilled sweet potato yokan Senbei Motsuni and croquettes the outdoors and tabe-aruki centuries – selling traditional Back in the Edo period (1603-1868), kusa Yokan are traditional Japanese sweets, made While you can fi nd senbei (rice crackers) Located right at the entrance to Taishakuten- is the perfect way to snack on a souvenirs and trinkets, as well dango (rice fl our dumplings) were a Shibamata from sweetened bean or vegetable paste. To anywhere in Japan, getting handmade ones Sando, Ojigi Chaya’s most popular dish is range of Japanese specialities as snacks. Note that most stores speciality popular with pilgrims visiting the make the unique butter-grilled sweet potato straight from the grill is something special. motsuni (¥500) – a steaming bowl of pork while soaking up local culture wrap up by around 3pm, and the nearby Taishakuten temple. There are a lot yokan (butter-yaki imo-yokan; ¥200 each) at This 100-year-old shop off ers sesame, aonori innards and vegetables in a light but umami and history. Here we’ve selected popularity of the area means that of kusa dango vendors along Taishakuten- Ishii, Japanese sweet potato is mashed with (powdered seaweed) and soy sauce-fl avoured broth, perfect for pairing with one of the shop’s three of our favourite tabe-aruki some stores sell out much earlier, Sando, but Toraya is our pick. The shop is over a little salt, then shaped into blocks and fried senbei. Although the range has grown to beers. We also love the gyu-suji (beef tendon) destinations around town – so so it’s best to arrive mid-morning 100 years old and the dango are still made on a teppan grill in sizzling butter. They’re include miso, karashi pepper, granule croquette (¥150): potato and beef coated in grab some napkins (things can at the latest. After walking the fresh daily. Topped with a house-made bean served hot, fresh off the grill, which is the best and sakura ebi (tiny dried prawns), the three breadcrumbs and fried until crisp, and its get messy) and some cash (you street, be sure to take some paste, the dumplings are springy and light and way to enjoy them. Let the alluring smell of original fl avours are hard to beat. The crackers meat-free equivalent, the satsumaimo (sweet can’t count on stalls taking cards), time to enjoy the other cultural come in skewers of four for ¥150. caramelised butter guide you to the shop. range from ¥70 to ¥130 apiece. potato) croquette. and discover your new favourite attractions of the area, too. Æ 7-7-5 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3659 8111. toraya.info. Æ 7-6-20 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 1749. shibamata-ishii. Æ 7-7-6 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 0928. shibamata.net/ Æ 7-1-4 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 6806 9227. ojigichaya.com.

Tokyo pastime. Æ Shibamata Station 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5.30pm. KISA TOYOSHIMA KISA TOYOSHIMA net. 8.30am-5pm, Sun & hols 8.30am-6pm. shop/jpg/tachibana/tatibanaya. 9.30am-5pm daily. 11am-10pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-10pm.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 40 41 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo Springtime in Tokyo

YANAKA TSUKIJI MARKET An old-fashioned shopping street with There’s still plenty to eat at the bustling Tsukiji, even after traditional and modern snacks the inner market has moved to Toyosu

With its blend of old and modern Tokyo, After a bit of uncertainty following the opening of the new Toyosu Fish friendly neighbourhood felines and winding Market in 2018, the Tsukiji Market is once again one of the best places in the fl ower-lined streets, Yanaka makes for an city to visit for street eats. Many of the market restaurants have food stalls easy and relaxed day trip. Be sure to visit out front, and the seafood shops sell samples of fresh fi sh and shellfi sh to Yanaka Ginza, a traditional shopping street eat on the spot. In the grid of narrow streets and alleys, you’ll fi nd vendors with around 60 stores selling everything from tucked into the most improbable of spaces. ceramics to groceries – and, of course, plenty Tsukiji is famed for its raw seafood off erings, but there’s also plenty of the to eat and drink. We recommend starting at cooked variety, grilled fresh to order, as well as non-seafood options, sweets the top of Yuyake Dandan steps, which off ers a and drinks. Stores open by 9am, so you can go for – and even wash view straight down Yanaka Ginza. it down with sake or beer, if it’s that kind of morning. Æ Nippori, Nishi-Nippori, Sendagi stations Æ

TSUKIJI SOLATSUKI Ichigo daifuku The gem-like form of ichigo daifuku HAKKODO makes them pop amongst the seafood Grilled onigiri off erings at Tsukiji: a ball of sweetened A recent edition to Yanaka Ginza, Hakkodo’s main off ering is grilled bean paste, wrapped in mochi (rice onigiri (rice balls). The unique fl avours on off er mean these aren’t your cake) , with a ripe strawberry typical onigiri. Try miso and parmesan, salt and Japanese pickles, in the middle. The juicy fl esh of the soy sauce and bonito fl akes, or butter and soy sauce, all for ¥330 each. fresh strawberry makes these mochi a They’re cooked to perfection, with a chewy crust and fl uff y interior. If must. At Solatsuki, you can go for the you’re thirsty, try one of Hakkodo’s special fermented drinks like the classic red bean paste, or experiment tangy and refreshing fruit vinegar soda. with variations like yomogi (Japanese Æ 3-12-1 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5834 7737. hakkodo.tokyo. 11am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-5pm, closed mugwort), pastry cream, mango, yuzu, Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). matcha and edamame. They cost ¥350 per piece. Æ 4-11-10 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 6228 4500. soratsuki.jp. 8am-3pm daily. SHOURO Tamagoyaki Established in 1924 as a sushi shop, Shouro switched to tamagoyaki during WWII and has been specialising in Japanese omelette ever since. You can buy tamagoyaki on a stick or in little bite-sized pieces, but we recommend the tamagoyaki sando (sandwich) for ¥500. It’s fi lled with a juicy omelette, smeared with Japanese mayonnaise and encased in fresh shokupan (). Even better, from 10am-2pm each day, you can try your hand at making tamagoyaki and take your eff orts home – for free! Æ 4-13-13 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 3543 0582. shouro.co.jp. 6am-3pm, Sun & hols 7am-4pm.

CHONMAGE MAGUROYA IMO TAMARU KUROGIN Sweet potato and sesame skewers Tuna sashimi and sushi WAGURIYA Chonmage means ‘topknot’ in Japanese, Maguroya specialises in tuna; Chestnut soft serve the traditional hairstyle of choice for SUZUKI here you can try the choice cuts Waguriya is all about chestnut confectionery, samurai and sumo. At Chonmage Imo Mince croquettes KAKIGOYA in sashimi and nigiri-style. At serving everything from mont blancs to Tamaru, skewers of chonmage-shaped Established in 1980, this store makes Grilled scallops and steamed oysters the top of the range is the kama- choux pastries fi lled with chestnut cream and sweet potato (¥350 each) are dipped in 100 percent beef mince croquettes Kakigoya is a seafood izakaya with a stall toro (special fatty tuna, ¥800 wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) made black or white sesame seeds and cooked. (menchi katsu) using a blend of high- out front selling steamed oysters and grilled for a piece of nigiri), which is the with the sweet nut. For a treat on the go, you The seeds become nutty and toasty, quality local and Australian beef. scallops to order. Giant scallops (¥500 each) highly prized neck meat. Next in can buy a cone of chestnut soft serve for ¥463. popping and crunching in your mouth, The succulent mixture is coated in are cooked in a combination of butter, soy line is the otoro (fatty tuna, ¥550), It features all-natural ingredients, including contrasting perfectly with the warm, breadcrumbs and fried until golden, sauce and sake until they’re tender while followed by chu-toro (medium a chestnut paste that’s made using nuts from pillowy sweet potato. They contain then served piping hot. Just one is plump oysters are steamed in a metal tin fatty tuna, ¥400) and akami (lean forests in Ibaraki prefecture. The soft serve is no additives, so you can pretend these never enough, so try the potato and (¥500 for two). If raw oysters are your thing, tuna, ¥250). If you’d rather skip creamy with the distinctly earthy and slightly delectable treats are making up your mince croquette, or the crumbed you can knock them back freshly shucked for the rice, try the sashimi plates – sweet taste of the shop’s signature ingredient. recommended serve of vegetables for mushrooms and mini aubergines fi lled ¥700 apiece. Wine and draft beer are available you can get three types of tuna Æ 3-9-14 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5834 2243. waguriya.com. 11am-6pm, the day. with mince. by the cup for ¥500, too. for ¥2,000. closed Mon (except in spring and autumn). Æ 3-11-15 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5814 3460. 11am-7pm, closed Æ 3-15-5 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa. 03 3821 4526. Æ 4-10-14 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 6228 4880. minato-kakigoya.com. Æ 4-10-12 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 3544 7440.

Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). 10.30am-6pm, closed Mon & Tue. KISA TOYOSHIMA KEISUKE TANIGAWA 9am-4pm daily. kurogin.jp. 8.30am-2pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 42 43 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo MARK’S TABLE Tucked away on a backstreet in Ginza is the sleek yet intimate kitchen of Mark’s Table. Chef and owner Mark Sekita quit finance to follow his father’s footsteps in the food industry and promptly signed up for culinary school. He opened this restaurant in September  after spending a year working under chef Michael Anthony at ’s Gramercy Tavern, and serves up a monthly changing five-course menu of classic American dishes with a Japanese twist. Passionate about reinventing dishes closest to his heart, Mark often incorporates traditional family recipes in his menu to share the Eating & flavours of his childhood. While dishes like the macaroni may look familiar, the tastes will challenge everything you thought you knew about flavour combinations. A dash of shoyu to cranberry sauce prevents it from being too sweet, and adding dashi to butternut squash soup makes for a moreish broth that you don’t get tired of. Dinner at Mark’s Table is the kind of occasion Drinking that wouldn’t be complete without a glass of wine as you watch the chef work his magic behind the counter, so ask for the recommended glass of red or white, all of which is sourced from , a homage to Mark’s San Franciscan roots. Æ 8-4-3 Ginza, Chuo (). 03 3571 1900. markstable.com. 6pm-11pm, closed Sat & Sun. Chef’s menu ¥10,500.

FUSHIKINO In , Yusuke Miyashita opened his restaurant Fushikino, serving a banquet of Japanese dishes paired with craft sake, in the stone-cobbled neighbourhood of Kagurazaka. Miyashita is a licensed sake brewer, sommelier and Enshu-style tea- ceremony master who pairs seasonal sake with traditional multi-course kaiseki dishes created by renowned chef Yoshio Aramaki. The Michelin-starred restaurant only seats nine people at a time, and as you settle down at the chestnut counter and eye the antique tableware, you know you’re in for something special. Behind the counter, Miyashita warms a flask to reach a temperature of °C, ensuring the in the fish or meat of the dishes will melt in your mouth as you sip throughout your meal. Every evening features at least one vintage sake, which has been aged over ten years, as well as a blend of two sake that Miyashita combines to match the food. The meal concludes with a bowl of rich matcha, which Miyashita whisks in front of you to revive you from the spell of the potent rice wine. Æ 2F, 4-3-11 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku ( Station). 03 3269 4556. fushikino.com. 6.30pm-11pm, closed Sun.

KISA TOYOSHIMA ¥12,000 for seven courses, ¥15,000 for nine courses, sake pairing ¥6,000.

& PIECE No forks, knives or chopsticks for this omakase course: & Piece (or ‘And Piece’, to its friends) offers a uniquely fun

and playful dining experience by only serving dishes that KISA TOYOSHIMA are meant to be eaten by hand. Chef Masaki Yamagishi’s food, which combines Japanese ingredients with French cooking techniques, will definitely engage all five of your senses. The dishes are presented like dainty little treasure Table pieces, from foie gras mousse disguised as a pair of red lips to ogura toast ‘puzzle pieces’ made with butter and anko (sweet red bean paste). Yamagishi, who spent a number of years working at the Joël Robuchon Restaurant in

Ebisu, is particularly gifted in French confectionery and KISA TOYOSHIMA KEISUKE TANIGAWA his speciality financiers and Basque cheesecake can be for one enjoyed fresh out of the if you call to request them LOCALE BLIND DONKEY Forget casual ramen joints and fast food chains. in advance. This unconventional restaurant lets you Chef Katy Cole brings her diners closer to produce at her farm-to-table While neighbouring taverns cater to the after-work penchants of rediscover a curiosity for food and will leave you dreaming restaurant in Meguro. Everything served in the warmly lit restaurant is Kanda’s salarymen, Blind Donkey’s farm-to-table restaurant is an Emma Steen shows you where to treat yourself to a of the scent of brown butter for days to come. organic, with produce arriving a few times a week from small farms in unexpected deviant in its district. Headed by Jérôme Waag and Shin good meal even if you’re dining solo Æ 3-25-4 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6407 9036. andpiece.com. Hokkaido, Ehime and Kochi. The array of vegetables from the organic Harakawa, the restaurant is a homage to local produce and everything Bakery 12noon-6pm, dinner 6pm-8pm, closed Tue & Wed. Omakase course ¥4,200. farms result in the most brilliantly multi-coloured dishes in Tokyo, here, save for the wine and olive oil, is sourced from small Japanese showcasing a kaleidoscope of seasonal fare. farms. Waag, who worked at Alice Waters’s restaurant Chez Panisse WE’VE SAID IT BEFORE and we’ll say it again (and again), when Her creations, such as avocado with lentils and fuchsia-pink in California for  years, insisted on being rooted in a historic part of it comes to dining out, we are unequivocally spoiled for choice in shibazuke yoghurt, are the kind of dishes celebrity nutritionists Tokyo, where he would bring out the best in Japanese ingredients with Tokyo. In other parts of the world, solo diners might feel lonely or a wish they had thought of for their cookbooks but didn’t. Yet Cole has European cooking techniques. bit embarrassed about the absence of company when hitting more no intention of branding her restaurant as a shrine for Instagram The menu highlights the best ingredients of the season and it’s upscale parts of the city, but that’s not the case in Tokyo. Instead of fanatics (though they no doubt lose their heads over the rustic flower difficult not to let your eyes rule your stomach as you sit at the rustic sitting across from a companion, you’re seated at the counter of a arrangements and the gorgeous tableware she handcrafted herself). kitchen table, covered with colourful bowls of ingredients, aglow with vibrant open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs in action as they Instead, she is set on her philosophy of serving honest food with the linen lanterns. Vegetable dishes are a category all of their own here, dish up your omakase course and fill you in on the best produce of best local ingredients. and while sweet roasted carrots with mikan glaze can be enjoyed by the season. If you don’t go for a whimsical wine dinner, go for the weekend themselves, they would also make an excellent accompaniment to You won’t find your average noodle shops and chain restaurants brunch and treat yourself to an avocado toast with perfectly poached heartier mains such as wild boar braised with shiitake mushrooms and on this list. We’re taking the game up a notch with the best open- eggs to remind you of all that is good and right with the world. red wine served over polenta. kitchen restaurants for serious bon vivants, which are also perfect for Æ 1-17-22 Meguro, Meguro (). 03 6874 6719. locale.tokyo. Wed-Fri 6pm-10pm, Æ 3-17-4 Uchikanda, Chiyoda (Kanda, Awajicho stations) .050 3184 0529. theblinddonkey.jp.

discerning solo diners. Go on, treat yourself. KISA TOYOSHIMA Sat 9.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 9.30am-2pm, 6pm-9pm, closed Mon & Tue. 5.30pm-11.30pm (last orders 10pm), closed Sun & Mon.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 44 45 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Eating & Drinking -.'"*$/,"0"1$(2"3$4*"

TIME OUT LOVES !"#$%&"'"&( Commune )*"+, !"#$#%&'%#()'*%+%(#,%&+-#%'(% Omotesando .+/+(#0#%1$##(%&#+%0/#23+43&3#0 Food trucks and farm produce in an alfresco setting – welcome $##(%&#+%30%.+/+(G0%7+?'B$3&#%6$3(-E%F'%03/% F'-*'G0%?#(63(1%;+2"3(#D'(4*%?#$03'(%'7% 23&*02+/#E%V#+(,"34#>%=&'#(%30%6'3(1%3&0%/+$&% to your new favourite hangout. '(%&"#%1'%43-#%&"#%4'2+40%6'>%)B0&%1$+A%+% &"#%:3%:2"+%A'&&4#%$#2#(&4*%$#2#3?#6%+%(#,% 3(%&"#%14'A+4%;'?#;#(&%+1+3(0&%/4+0&32%,+0&#W% A$31"&%1$##(%A'&&4#%'7%:3%:2"+%&#+>%,"32"%30% /+2-+1#%6#031(%&"+&%7#+&B$#0%&$+63&3'(+4D &"#%2';/+(*%30%/B$0B3(1%+%1'+4%'7%$#/4+23(1% By Jessica Thompson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behind the hip &"#%A#0&D0#443(1%$#+6*D&'D6$3(-%1$##(%&#+% 6$#00#6%3(%*B-+&+%#()'*3(1%73$#,'$-0%M%+44% "#+6%'(%'?#$%&'%&"#%(#,4*%'/#(#6%:2"+%5'';% Farmers Market @ UNU, Commune A#?#$+1#%,'$46,36#E% 0#&%+1+3(0&%&"#%A+2-6$'/%'7%F'-*'G0%;'6#$(% <0"3&+%=&'#(%3(%@"3AB*+%@2$+;A4#%@CB+$#E Omotesando is a casual, colourful and leafy enclave of food trucks with open-air BROOKLYN RIBBON FRIES seating just off the ritzy Aoyama-dori. Despite the name, these crisp paper-thin There’s around a dozen food and drink spiral fries have nothing to do with the Big vendors, free wi-fi, and the area is now Apple. In fact, they are made from premium smoke- and booze-free – although there is Hokkaido potatoes and come in a range of 5673(8990(-,7/$3(:$9"1 a bar selling non-alcoholic beer, wine and flavours – sea salt and black pepper, allspice, mocktails. Commune often hosts events cinnamon sugar, onion gratin soup, and butter 5#+6*%7'$%+%(#,%,+*%'7%#8/#$3#(23(1%+(6%#()'*3(1%&#+9%:2"+%5'';% and festivals, like the monthly Raw Tokyo soy sauce (  small,  large). For a more <0"3&+%=&'#(>%4'2+%'(%&"#%&#(&"%74''$%'7%&"#%;+003?#%@"3AB*+% market, which stocks vintage clothes, substantial meal, pair these with a chicken @2$+;A4#%@CB+$#%2';/4#8>%"+0%+%7$3#(64*%+;A3#(2#%+(6%2+4;3(1% jewellery and other knick-knacks. Here karaage burger ( ) – a hefty assemblage 3(&#$3'$>%3(?3&3(1%1B#0&0%&'%0+?'B$%+%43(#DB/%'7%2$#+&3?#%1$##(%&#+% are our favourite eateries at Commune. of golden, juicy fried chicken, Cajun-spiced 630"#0>%6#00#$&0%+(6%6$3(-0%3(%0#$#(#%0B$$'B(63(10E Æ 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). mayonnaise, creamy coleslaw, tomato and commune.tokyo. 9.30am-8pm daily. lettuce on a toasted bun. Wash it all down with the house-made ginger ale. Æ brooklynribbonfries.com. 11am-10pm daily.

F"#%$"3*990G0%&+0&*%;+&2"+%A+1B#&&#% S'$%&"#%B4&3;+&#%;+&2"+%#8/#$3#(2#>%&+-#%+7&#$% 0+(6,32"#0%H7$';%IJ>JKKL%+$#%;+6#%,3&"%6'B1"% @3(2#%:2"+%5'';%<0"3&+%=&'#(%/$';30#0%&'% &"#%$#036#(&%&#+%#8/#$&0%+&%:2"+%5'';%<0"3&+% &"+&%3(2'$/'$+�%;+&2"+%+(6%1$'B(6%$32#%M%,#% /$'?36#%&"#%7B44%1$##(%&#+%#8/#$3#(2#>%*'B%2+(% =&'#(%+(6%+7/,=(4<(;94*(9+1()9+&(92(03$673T% $#2';;#(6%&"#%'(#%7344#6%,3&"%13(1#$%/'$->%#11% +40'%73(6%+%031(3732+(&%'3*/"$;(92(<*9.46$,(91( *'B%2+(%2"''0#%7$';%&"$##%&*/#0%'7%/',6#$#6% +(6%1$+%2+$$'&0E%=&G0%A#0&%/+3$#6%,3&"%+%14+00% ,3&"E%F"#%43(#DB/%3(24B6#0%#?#$*&"3(1%*'BG44% THE FARMER’S MARKET ZONE STOCKHOLM ROAST 365 PROBIOTICS ORIGINAL &#+%&'%B0#%3(%*'B$%43&&4#%,'$-'B&%H7$';%IUUKLE% '7%;+&2"+%A##$%H7$';%INOPLE%Q''-3(1%7'$%+(% (##6%&'%$#2$#+&#%+%&$+63&3'(+4%&#+%2#$#;'(*% If you want a dose of rural Japan in inner- At the street-facing front of Commune you’ll The folks at  Probiotics Original craft their F'%2';/4#;#(&%&"#%A3&&#$%&+0&#%'7%&"#%;+&2"+% +7&#$(''(%0(+2-%3(0&#+69%R'%7'$%&"#%;+&2"+% +&%"';#>%7$';%"31"DCB+43&*%;+&2"+%&'%A+;A''% Tokyo, come to the Farmer’s Market Zone for find a cosy little caffeine hut, home to the thick, silky ice cream using  percent plant- 3&0#47>%;+-#%0B$#%&'%&+-#%+%A3&#%'7%&"#%6+3(&*% ,+$+A3%;'2"3%6B;/43(10%H0#$?#6%,3&"%#3&"#$% ,"30-0%+(6%+$&30+(+4%&#+%A',40E% fresh produce any day of the week. The setup, Tokyo outpost of Swedish roastery, Stockholm based ingredients like organic soy milk and 0,##&%&$#+&%&"+&G0%0#$?#6%&'1#&"#$%,3&"%&"#%&#+% $#1B4+$%1$##(%&#+%'$%;+&2"+L>%;+6#%7$#0"%'(%&"#% much like the Farmers Market @UNU, is Roast. Pull up a stool and browse the selection sprouted brown rice puree. There’s classic A#7'$#%&+-3(1%+%03/E% stylish, with cheery vendors and vibrant-hued of art and culture books while you sip your flavours such as vanilla and strawberry, plus 0/'&E%<44%;+&2"+DA+0#6%630"#0%+(6%6$3(-0%B0#% produce in wooden crates. There’s organic coffee, or take one of the outdoor seats for a some distinctly local ones including matcha =&'#(G0%"31"DCB+43&*%/',6#$#6%&#+E and seasonal fruit and vegetables from across spot of people-watching. Baked goods from and shine muscat, all at  a cup. We love Japan, as well as pickles, preserves and popular artisan bakeries Katane and Chez the sake lees ice cream, with its slightly funky, assorted condiments. Mikki are available fresh daily. boozy flavour, which pairs beautifully with a Æ> 7/) 4;3(> 6* 3 0) &"(> ? 43* "(@A BC(D %D E % @ D(> 7/) 4;3 C(> 7/) 4;3(F> 7/) 4;3(>$3 $ /9 1GH( Æ 9.30am-8pm daily. Æ stockholmroast.jp. 9am-8pm, Sat, Sun & Mon 11am-8pm. scoop of the rich chocolate. AI(JKAI(K@@DH(/$9"1H69HL

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 46 Shopping & Style Shopping & Style

Hosono Some of the toughest bags to be found in Tokyo come from Hosono, a storied local Studio d’Artisan manufacturer famed among outdoorsy types for supplying gear to Antarctic explorers. Amongst jeans afi cionados it’s almost Operating from a sole shop in Nihonbashi, Hosono is run by a descendant of the man universally agreed that the best Japanese who established the company in nearby Kanda way back in 1912. Hosono products, brands now produce this typically American which are designed to last a long time, owe their durability to the use of ‘sail cloth’, a garment to a higher standard than anybody in Style heavy-duty, paraffi n-treated fabric used for boat sails, combined with a manufacturing the US. Japan began sewing up the high-end process largely done by hand. denim market with the late 1980s rise of the These bags are surprisingly aff ordable, with rucksacks priced from ¥16,500. Colour ‘Osaka Five’, a clutch of Kansai-based labels options are extensive: most items are available in a choice of 18 hues that includes that revived techniques elsewhere abandoned lavender and a ‘wasabi green’, as well as the more typical military olive and sand in favour of mass production, and prominent specialists shades. The Hosono workshop is adjacent to the store, and customers are invited to pop amongst this bunch was Studio d’Artisan. in and take a look. Represented in Tokyo by this Ebisu store, Æ1-6-13 Nihonbashi Horidomecho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). 03 6667 0458. hosono-jp.com. 9am-6pm, closed Wed. the brand was the fi rst in Japan to combine These designed- and made-in-Japan shuttle loom weaving, which creates the brands are single-minded in their fabric’s selvedge (or ‘self-edge’) visible when Vivify you roll up the jean cuff , with a process known pursuit of perfection for their one Maker’s Watch Knot Gallery Shop At this bijou workshop and store located as ‘hank dyeing’. The process, which takes chosen product. By Darren Gore a quick stroll from the many days to complete, creates a deeper Maker’s Watch Knot, hailing from Tokyo’s Kichijoji neighbourhood, achieves the riverside, local brand Vivify creates what it hue than other methods while retaining the impossible-sounding feat of off ering high-quality, made-in-Japan timepieces at calls ‘urban craft jewellery’: predominantly cotton’s natural softness. Studio d’Artisan’s THE JAPANESE TENDENCY to focus obsessively on aff ordable prices: watches start at around ¥17,000. The company has direct ties silver accessories with a distinctly popular SD-101, a straight-legged, regular-fi t a single subject is, though bordering on stereotype, (hence the ‘Knot’ in the brand name) with an assortment of artisan component handmade feel. The natural wood-lined pair of jeans, sells for ¥23,980. nonetheless very much a thing. Otaku and their manufacturers scattered up and down the country. Strap suppliers include the atelier and shop space has a counter There’s humour at work amidst all the obsessions are famed worldwide, but at the other end Tochigi Leather tannery while watch casings are sourced from, among others, spanning most of one wall, behind which earnest artisanal workmanship: jeans feature of the style spectrum Tokyo is also home to clothing Fukushima-based metal workshop Hayashi Seiki Seizo. a jewellery maker can often be observed a pair of pigs on the rear patch, with the and accessory labels fanatically dedicated to the This ‘gallery store’, located off the boutique- and eatery-lined Nakamichi- at work. Outside, a terrace complete with porcine duo also appearing on tees and sweats. pursuit of perfection in one single type of product. dori street, has a chic interior that belies the low price point of its wares. The seating and cacti off ers space to relax and The shop even has a vintage, US-made sewing Contrary to popular perception, many demonstrate glass that usually comes between wristwatches and potential buyers is absent; contemplate your purchase. machine on hand, to give alterations an that ‘Made in Japan’ quality can be surprisingly you’re free to pick up and try on anything from the extensive selection. Styles Silver aside, Vivify’s designs also utilise authentic ‘chain stitch’ that modern machines affordable. From long-established names to some range from elegantly minimal to chunky, dial and gauge-bedecked designs, and other materials including gold, glass, can’t replicate. up-and-coming younger talent, we take a tour of the personalisation is encouraged at the store. Knot’s ‘custom-made’ option can stones and beads, with the collection Æ1F, 1-16-3 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya (). 03 6455 0018. city’s style specialists. be performed by customers themselves, with no tools required: simply select a encompassing earrings, body piercings, dartisan.co.jp. 11am-8pm, closed Wed (except hols). combination of watch and strap, and you’re good to go. rings, bangles, bracelets and more. Rings Æ1F, 2-33-8 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 6360. knot-designs.com. 11am-7pm, Fri & Sat start at around ¥5,500, with necklaces 11am-8pm. ranging from a couple of thousand to about ¥50,000. Æ1-3-5 Nakameguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3760 7922. vivify-net.com. 12noon-8pm, closed Wed. CAG - Chapeaux Artisanaux de Gris This cosy atelier-shop in Tokyo’s Sendagi district was opened by Gris Uchiyama to showcase the chic range of headwear she designs and makes single-handedly Sonomitsu on the premises. The women’s and men’s collections Sonomitsu, a maker of ready-to-wear and draws upon classic silhouettes, yet doesn’t shy are arrayed across wooden shelves that combine to bespoke leather shoes founded by designer away from experimentation. form the same ‘house’ shape used in CAG’s logo. Hajime Sonodo in 1998, takes an unhurried Everything is done by hand, from design Grab a couple that take your fancy, then park approach appropriate for the tranquil Yanaka to last-making, sewing and fi nishing, and yourself on the leather sofa to try them on. Should neighbourhood, where the brand’s atelier fi ttings are a pleasant experience thanks to your favourite need a change of colour or fabric, or and only shop are both located. Sonodo, who the warmly inviting air of this gallery-like another tweak to make it just your style, Uchiyama personally signs the insole of each completed store. Ready-to-wear styles start at around off ers a semi-order option, with a turnaround of pair of his men’s and women’s shoes, learnt ¥37,000. between two weeks and a month and a half. Off -the- his craft by building his own business and Æ2-18-6 Yanaka, Taito (). 03 3823 7178. shelf hats are priced from around ¥14,000. learning from the craftsmen he hired. He sonomitsu.com. Mon, Tue & Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat & Sun Æ2-39-5 Sendagi, Bunkyo (Sendagi Station). 03 6276 8400. gris-hat.com. Thu & brings the know-how gained from this to a 12noon-7pm, closed Wed & Thu. Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-6pm, closed Mon-Wed. uniquely elegant collection of shoes that HOSONO, VIVIFY, SONOMITSU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 48 49 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Conquer Mount Mitake Hiking fans will love this lush mountain close to Mitake Station. If you’re Things reasonably fit, the walk to the summit is roughly  minutes, or you can take the Mitake Tozan cable car, which drops you off - minutes’ walk from the top. The ancient Musashi Mitake Shrine graces the peak of Mt Mitake, and whichever route you take you’ll pass through the tiny Mitakesan village, home to a few souvenir shops and old minshuku (Japanese-style inns) that have to Do been serving both pilgrims and tourists for decades. Stop by the combined guest- and teahouse Higashibaba for some traditional Japanese sweets or a light meal. One of the oldest minshuku on the mountain, this striking wooden building with its thatched roof has been designated an Intangible Cultural Property of Tokyo. The Musashi Mitake Shrine greets you at the summit along with gorgeous panoramic views of the Kanto area. A -minute hiking trail, which starts and ends at the shrine and loops around the mountain, takes you through the dense forest. On your way you’ll pass the Nagaodaira Observatory as well as the Ayahiro Falls and a rock garden with impressive moss-covered stone formations. Into ÆMitake, Ome (Mitake Station). the woods JOOKO3/PIXTA Escape the concrete jungle and unwind in Okutama, a natural paradise in Western Tokyo. By Tabea Greuner

SPRING CALLS FOR nature walks, hiking adventures and water sports, and you can do all that without leaving Tokyo. Plan a trip to Okutama – about  minutes by train MACHA/PIXTA © 2020 BIGSMILE CO., LTD. from Shinjuku Station – in the Walk on water at the Ogouchi Reservoir Ride the rapids on the Tama River Chichibu Tama Kai National Start your Okutama outing by visiting the River rafting is one of Okutama’s most popular Park and recharge by enjoying Ogouchi Reservoir. Surrounded by mountains water sports and the Tama River has  © 2019 MOEGI NO YU the stunning scenery around and verdant forests, the man-made Lake kilometres of ideal rafting conditions. Don’t Soak away your troubles at Moegi no Yu Lake Okutama, hiking Mt Okutama was created back in  when the worry if you’re a newbie – the staff at Big For some serious relaxation, Moegi no Yu is just a -minute walk from Fish for Nippara trout Mitake or soaking in an outdoor Ogouchi Dam went up across the Tama River. Smile Rafting will explain everything from Okutama Station. The water at this hot spring bath is sourced from one The Tama isn’t the only river running through Okutama. The onsen (hot spring). Here are our Hop on the bus from Okutama Station and safety procedures to paddling styles. During of Japan’s oldest rock strata, a Palaeozoic layer deep under the Okutama nearby Nippara River, close to Okutama Station, is the place highlights. get off at Ogouchi Shrine, directly in front the three-hour ride, you and your team will area. The water contains metaboric acid and fluorine, and is said to to go to cast a line. At Hikawa International Trout Fishing, you of the lake’s Mugiyama floating bridge. The conquer white-water and rapid currents and, soothe neuralgia, muscle and joint pain, stiff shoulders, bruises, sprains can catch trout by rod or – if you’re fast enough – by hand before distinctive crossing makes for a great photo if you’re feeling extra brave, dive off rocks into and more. enjoying a barbecue with your day’s catch. You can rent all the spot with the dark blue water on either side and the water. Once you’ve conquered the river, Enjoy views of Okutama’s mountains and forests from the indoor equipment you need on site and the experienced staff will help the lush greenery in the background. Take in you’ll be driven back to where you started, and bath, while the rotenburo (open-air bath) gives you a clear view of the you with angling, and they even gut the fish for you (  per fish) the scenery and then walk back towards the the staff will share photos taken during the trip. Tama River winding its way through the valley. Don’t have time for a full before you skewer and grill it. interactive Water and Green Museum, located ÆBig Smile Rafting, 1-178-1 Mitake, Ome (Mitake Station). 0771 29 dip? Try the communal ashiyu (foot bath) for just . A one-day pass allows you to catch and eat as many fish as you between the bridge and Okutama Station. Here 5370. gekiryu.com/en/okutama. End-Apr to mid-Oct; 9am-12noon, If you feel peckish after soaking in the healing water, head to the like. If you’d rather a meal cooked by someone else, there’s also a you can gain a deeper insight into the history of 1.30pm-4.30pm, additional slots in high season 10am-1pm, on-site restaurant serving local Okutama dishes. We recommend the café on site offering homemade soba, dishes, a selection of Okutama, the native wildlife and the Ogouchi 2.30pm-5pm. ¥4,580 (includes life jacket & insurance; primary school nekkara udon, a very spicy bowl of noodles made with bonito flakes and sweets and free coffee. Reservoir. The on-site restaurant even serves students have to be accompanied by an adult, younger children are not local wasabi. Æ397-1 Hikawa, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). 0428 83 2147. okutamas. an Instagram-worthy Ogouchi Dam-inspired eligible to participate). Bring swimwear and a towel (waterproof shoes Æ119-1 Hikawa, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). 0428 82 7770. okutamas.co.jp/ co.jp/kokusai. Mar-Nov 8am-4pm, Dec-Feb 9.30am-3pm, closed Mon & Tue from Dec-Feb (open curry dish. available for rent ¥300, wetsuit will be provided). moegi. Apr-Nov 10am-8pm (last entry 7pm), Dec-Mar 10am-7pm (6pm), Ashiyu Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Dec-Mar if hols). One day pass (entrance fee, equipment hire and unlimited fishing) ¥3,300, from 12noon ÆOkutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). 10am-4pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). Three hours ¥850, primary school students ¥450, FREE for younger ¥1,700 (entrance fee, equipment hire and fishing of five fish), entrance without fishing ¥300 per day, children; every additional hour ¥200; Ashiyu ¥100. FREE for pre-school children. Note: swimming in the river and open fire at the riverbanks is prohibited.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 50 51 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Things to Do Things to Do

TOKYO MAPPED 4km

NAKAMEGURO Ayako Kojima ROUTE . Illustrations Home to many trendy shops and We runYouka Nagasethis city cafés, Nakameguro makes a great jogging spot for beginners with The best jogging routes in the city to take in some sights while you clock its picturesque river paths that up your daily steps. By are perfect for a leisurely run. This charming neighbourhood is especially busy when the cherry trees flanking the river are in full Bridge and get some photos, bloom, so get here early in the day too – it’s usually less crowded to avoid the crowd. there. Then, it’s a simple loop From Nakameguro Station, back to the station. which has a limited number of coin lockers, take East Exit 1 Post-run: Visit Trueberry and head towards the Tsutaya Nakameguro (9am-6.30pm bookstore and on to the Meguro daily) for a healthy breakfast and River. Whichever way you decide fill up with green smoothies and to run, you’ll be running under the acai bowls. For something more endless brigade of cherry blossom substantial, the Onigily Cafe trees and passing by cool coffee (8am-4pm daily) offers a breakfast shops, gastropubs, minimalist set with a choice of two onigiri, stores and indie art galleries. Make pickles, miso soup and a drink for sure to cross the iconic red Nakano only ¥540.

5km 15km RAINBOW BRIDGE ROUTE If you’re looking for a jog that lets you enjoy the Tokyo IMPERIAL skyline, we suggest the Rainbow Bridge, stretching across Tokyo Bay to Pier. The bridge walkway is only PALACE ROUTE 1.7 kilometres end to end, but if you want more out of your This gentle course in the city run, you can conquer an additional 13-kilometre course in centre lets you take in the serene just under two hours. grounds of the Imperial Palace. Once you’ve crossed the Rainbow Bridge from Odaiba, It’s accessible from nine different turn right and head north along the Yurikamome line stations, but we recommend and past the Hamarikyu Gardens. If you have some time, starting at Hibiya, Sakuradamon take a detour through the gardens for ¥300 – get a sip of or Nijubashimae stations. All matcha from the teahouse before continuing your run. three have coin lockers for your Cross the Tsukiji-o Bridge and keep going straight for belongings and boast easy access the left with water fountains; about three kilometres. You’ll see several Tokyo Olympic to our starting line: the Imperial rehydrate here before the last leg venues on the way. When you hit Ariake Station, take a Palace Front Gardens, where of the run. The final kilometre right to circle back to Odaiba, where you’ll see the Giant you’ll see the iconic Nijubashi takes you downhill along the tree- Sky Wheel in Palette Town. bridge leading into the inner lined moat that expands until the Daiba, Odaiba-kaihinkoen, Tokyo Teleport and palace grounds. Sakuradamon Gate. Post-run: Le Petit Mec (8am-8pm stations all have lockers. For the ultimate warm-down, go Run anticlockwise following There are run stations nearby daily) serves up freshly baked to Oedo Onsen Monogatari to soak in natural hot spring the pedestrian path along the – including Joglis (Hanzomon), goods and ciabatta sandwiches. baths or relax in a rock salt sauna or foot bath. moat and walls surrounding the Adidas Runbase (Nagatacho), For an egg and toast breakfast, East Gardens. You’ll reach the Raffine Running Style Neo seek out Q Cafe (8am-10pm, Sat, Post-run: Fuel up with bagels or an acai banana smoothie National Museum of Modern (Hibiya) and Run Pit (Takebashi) Sun & hols 11am-10pm). Both at Crux Kafeo (7.30am-7pm, Sat 12noon-6pm, closed Sun Art, Tokyo about two kilometres – equipped with showers, running venues are located just outside & hols). The Open Bakery offers baguette and ciabatta in. Further up, there’s a park on gear rentals and energy drinks. . sandwiches along with its premium Daiba roasted coffee.

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IKEBANA CLASSES IKEBANA Art & EXHIBITION Culture KEISUKE TANIGAWA Sogetsu Kaikan Sogetsu Kaikan isn’t only limited to Sogetsu Kaikan was established more classrooms but also features viewing spaces recently than most ikebana schools (it was for visitors to admire ikebana for free. The only founded in ), and it embraces its fifth f loor has a Japanese-style room with own principle that favours creativity over tatami mats, where you can view ikebana as it established form. The school’s philosophy, is traditionally displayed alongside artworks Ikebana x Hyakudan ‘any time, any where’, emphasises how that are selected from the Sogetsu collection. Kaidan 2020 Flower Sogetsu arrangements are f lexible in style so Also worth viewing is the Sogetsu Plaza, Hyakudan Kaidan, the - that they can be displayed in a broad range created by the late artist Isamu Noguchi. This step staircase of Hotel Gajoen, of environments and locations, whether the indoor stone garden is regularly used as an has a histor y dating back to the setting be modern or traditional, Western or exhibition space for ikebana as well as live Showa era (-) and the power Japanese. Rather than being provided with performances. traditional viewing rooms on its a predetermined set of f lowers and vase, Æ7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato (Aoyama-Itchome Station). 03 3408 seven landings make an exquisite All you need to know about ikebana, participants are free to select their own flowers 1154. tinyurl.com/TOTsogetsu. 9.30am-5.30pm, closed Sat, Sun & space for the annual ikebana the traditional Japanese art of and vessel to work with for the lesson. hols. ¥4,140 for trial lesson. exhibitions. The Japan Ikebana Arts flower arranging, including where Association, the largest alliance to try it for yourself. By Emma Steen of ikebana schools in the world, has held this exhibition annually since . Each flower arrangement showcases IKEBANA, also known as theatre and garden design, a different style and viewers can kado, is one of Japan’s most thanks to a group of artists appreciate the varied aesthetics ancient art forms. While managed by the feudal lords, of the  participating schools. the act of arranging f lowers called the doboshu. The doboshu The displays, which will change spans across various cultures, were responsible for aesthetics every week, feature blossoms and ikebana is distinguished by its and techniques, and many who foliage from late spring and early conscientious nature and the chose to specialise in flower summer to ref lect the transition different approaches taken by its arranging formed their own style of the seasons. different schools. Over several of ikebana known as tatebana, ÆMay 26-Jun 21. 1-8-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro centuries, more than  where branches were stood (Meguro Station). hotelgajoen-tokyo.com. schools of ikebana have formed upright in the centre of the vase. KISA TOYOSHIMA 10am-5pm daily (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon. in Japan and abroad, each with From there, different masters of Ohara School of Ikebana Adults ¥1,600, university and high school students different philosophies and ikebana emerged with their own ACADEMY FLOWER MANAKO The school’s founder Unshin Ohara sought ¥1,000, ¥600 for junior high school and elementary guidelines on how to best arrange unique styles and techniques Manako Flower Academy to develop a style that would express the school students. plants and f lowers. that are still taught in ikebana The Manako Flower Academy offers lessons beauty of natural landscapes and scener y. Ikebana has numerous schools today. in all kinds of f loral arrangements: pressed The trial lesson for beginners at this denominations; branches that During the Meiji era (- ACADEMY FLOWER MANAKO f lowers, gift bouquets, and of course, ikebana. -year-old school includes two moribana stem from the same roots but ), the government encouraged the inclusion of of studying to be a master, don’t The academy aims to cultivate a broad arrangements with seasonal f lowers, a style have significant distinctions. ikebana in a girl’s education let that deter you from tr ying knowledge of the aesthetics of f lowers and of ikebana that Ohara created, where flowers Thought to have been introduced as they believed it would help your hand at this ancient art how to incorporate them in ever yday life. and branches are arranged upright in low to Japan from as a Buddhist ‘Ikebana was make them ‘good wives and wise form. Apart from adding to the You can sign up for a one-off trial lesson, and wide vessels. You’ll be provided with a practice, ikebana was first mothers’. However, before then, aesthetic of your home, f lower but the academy also offers certification few reference sheets to give you a visual idea, performed by Buddhist monks first performed it was a tradition that was only arranging can be extremely for Ikenobo, which is the oldest and largest but the instructor will also talk you through who arranged the f lowers as practiced by men. In fact, it was therapeutic and grounding, school of ikebana. Up for something more the process. At the end, you can ask for your offerings to the deities. by Buddhist said that many war generals took so one can only benefit from experimental? Take a course on the latest f lowers to be wrapped to take home and During the Muromachi period up ikebana as a way to centre learning more about the craft. trends of f lower design where you will learn buy materials at the school’s supply store to (about -), the art form monks...’ their minds and come up with an Go join a trial class or head to an skills on leaf manipulation as well as how to recreate the style at home. blossomed along with other effective battle plan. Today the ikebana exhibition to see pick out a vase for your arrangements. Æ5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 culturally significant traditions meditative practice is open to all. flowers like you’ve never seen ÆIko Dai 2 Bldg 3F, 4-7-12 Haramachida, Machida (Machida 3499 1200. ohararyu.or.jp/english/index.html. ¥4,000 for trial

such as the tea ceremony, Noh While ikebana requires years them before. IKEBANA X HYAKUDAN KAIDAN 2020; PHOTO FROM PREVIOUS EXHIBITION Station). 042 726 1187. manako-flower.com. Lessons from ¥5,000. lesson.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 56 57 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Art & Culture Art & Culture

Dress Code: Are You Playing Japan’s Kano school and ancient Fashion? Egyptian artefacts, the show Following an acclaimed run in examines both the original Kyoto, this large-scale exhibition function of these pieces, and the arrives in Tokyo to explore the broader historical relationship world of dress. Over  exhibits between art and authority. Shows come principally from the Kyoto ÆTokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Apr 16-Jul 5. Costume Institute, as well as 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 3823 6921. 9.30am- from the worlds of art, theatre, 5.30pm (last entry 5pm), Fri 9.30am-8pm (7.30pm), cinema and manga, and range closed Mon (except May 4 & Jun 29). to see from ornate th-century French gowns to the avant-garde design of Comme des Garçons (pictured left) and the irreverent st- this century streetwear of Vetements. ÆTokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Apr 11-Jun 21. 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5777 8600. 11am-7pm (last entry 6.30pm), Fri & Sat spring 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4). Kitawaki Noboru: To See the By Darren Gore Universe in a Seed

The National Museum of PAUL KLEE 'FLOWER IN THE VALLEY' (1938). WATERCOLOUR ON COTTON FABRIC (PASTED ON WOOD). Modern Art, Tokyo, draws upon New Acquisitions: its extensive collection to offer The Paul Klee Collection a different perspective on the No other artist of the th century work of avant-garde painter made marks, lines and doodles Kitawaki Noboru (-). sing with quite the same melody Active in Kyoto during the ’s as Paul Klee (-). As a and ’s, Kitawaki has until now result, you’ll spend ages peering been assessed in terms of the at and poring over the witty, influence he derived from the joyful masterpieces in this career- Surrealists. While this aspect is spanning, -work retrospective present – the maple seeds in  of the Swiss-German artist, work ‘Airport’ can alternatively watching Klee’s ideas spring to YOSHITOMO NARA, 'VOYAGE OF THE MOON (RESTING MOON) / VOYAGE OF THE MOON', 2006. MIXEDBY GRAF. MEDIA, COLLECTION: 476X354X495CM. 21ST CENTURY COOPERATION MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY PROVIDED ART, KANAZAWA. PHOTO: NAKAMICHI ATSUSHI / NACÁSA & PARTNERS be viewed as aeroplanes – this life on canvas. explores how each of the six have, appealing art venues – and it is

©RK exhibition argues that the artist’s Drawing influences from in very different ways, pursued featured in a number of works RK: NEOrient deeper aim was to decode the Surrealism, Cubism and universal values that transcend across this group show. Works Japanese photographer RK has invisible laws of the world around Expressionism, Klee experimented nationality and culture while by photographers Tomoki Imai, risen to Instagram fame over us, and present a unification of tirelessly with colour theory, working in a social, cultural and Tamotsu Kido and Tokihiro the past few years, gaining over heaven and earth as if condensed materials and technique. He economic milieu that has often Sato; multi-media artist Lee Kit;  followers with colourful, into a single seed. was originally associated with been considered unique. and the late animator Masaharu

detail-packed images that COMME DES GARCONS (REI KAWAKUBO) SPRING / SUMMER 2018 © THE KYOTO COSTUME INSTITUTE. PHOTO BY TAKASHI HATAKEYAMA ÆThe National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, until the expressionist group Der ÆMori Art Museum, Apr 23-Sept 6. Roppongi Sato capture the flux and flow convey the sense of daily life in Jun 14. 3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 Blaue Reiter and later taught at Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 of the world, offering hints as to Asia’s ultra-high-density cities. years will see breathtaking 8600. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Fri & Sat ’s legendary Bauhaus 5777 8600. 10am-10pm (last entry 9.30pm), Tue how we might pick up on things He also excels at revealing the installation pieces from 10am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4) school before his work was 10am-5pm (4.30pm), until 10pm on May 5. overlooked in our increasingly unintentional symmetries and throughout his career fill the & May 7. deemed ‘degenerate’ by the Nazis. hectic, information-saturated other patterns that appear in the Museum of Contemporary Art ÆArtizon Museum, Apr 18-Jun 21. 1-7-2 Kyobashi, Time Flows: Reflections times. cluttered architecture of cities Tokyo’s vast halls. Eliasson’s Art & Power: From Pharaohs to Chuo. 03 5777 8600. 10am-6pm (last entry by 5 Artists ÆHara Museum of Contemporary Art, Apr 25-Jun 7. such as Tokyo and Hong Kong. grandiose works demonstrate Daimyos. Masterworks from the 5.30pm), Fri (except hols) 10am-8pm (7.30pm), Set inside a distinguished 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 0651. Here RK departs from the both his masterful manipulation Museum of Fine Arts, Boston closed Mon (except May 4). European-style building dating 11am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Wed (except Apr 26 claustrophobia of his best-known of light and geometry, and deft Through some  Japanese and back to the s, the Hara & May 6) 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except work to present a ‘vision of incorporation of phenomena international artworks, Art & Stars: Six Contemporary Artists Museum is one of Tokyo’s most May 4) & May 7. crimson fantasy’. Solitary female from the natural world. ‘Beauty’ Power explores how rulers and from Japan to the World figures, traditionally clad in the (), in which a rainbow powerful figures down the ages Stars brings together six vibrant red hue that signifies good emerges in a darkened space, is have used art to demonstrate celebrated figures from the fortune in many Asian cultures, just one such highlight. and maintain their dominance. Japanese modern art scene, each appear amid muted cityscapes When Eliasson, a passionate Opulent residences and imposing of whom rose to prominence as and natural surroundings. The environmentalist, captures seats of power would be filled with the country became Asia’s first resulting impression is that the monumental power of works by eminent painters and postwar economic powerhouse, these are goddesses who have nature, it’s for a specific reason: craftsmen, with their occupants and transcended Japan’s cultural manifested themselves on earth, to make it explicitly clear that often also commissioning borders to capture imaginations unnoticed by all. THIS – this glorious, miraculous ego-satisfying portraits. Pieces worldwide. ÆDiesel Art Gallery, until May 21. Cocoti B1F, planet with its winds, rains and from the collections would play The careers of Yayoi Kusama, 1-23-16 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 5955. rocks – is precisely what we’re a part in diplomatic affairs, Tatsuo Miyajima, Takashi 11.30am-9pm daily. FREE. systematically destroying by and together come to form the Murakami, Yoshitomo Nara, letting it melt, crack and fall apart. foundations of some of today’s Hiroshi Sugimoto and South Olafur Eliasson: Sometimes the This is epic environmentalism world-class museums. Korean-born Lee Ufan, a resident River is the Bridge and, yes, it’s sublime. Consisting entirely of works of Japan for over six decades, are Olafur Eliasson does epic like few ÆMuseum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, until Jun 14. from the collection of the traced from their earliest works others. The Danish-Icelandic 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5405 8686. 10am-6pm, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, through to new pieces specially TAMOTSU KIDO, SUNLIGHT AND MANDARIN ORANGE, 2019. C-PRINT ©TAMOTSU KIDO artist’s first Tokyo show in ten closed Mon (except May 4) & May 7. OLAFUR ELIASSON, THE EXPLORATION OF THE CENTRE OF THE INSTALLATION SUN, 2017. PHOTO: JEON VIEW: BYUNG PKM COURTESY CHEOL, GALLERY, 2017. OF SEOUL, THE ARTIST 2017 AND PKM GALLERY, SEOUL OLAFUR © 2017 ELIASSON including masterpieces from commissioned for this show. Stars

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 58 59 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo SOUP Head past the self-service laundry and down a narrow Shinjuku stairway and you’ll find one of the nerve centres of Tokyo’s experimental music scene. Nearly  years after it opened, Soup hasn’t lost its DIY spirit, and you’ll often see performers working behind the bar after finishing their sets (tip: the shochu selection is typically excellent). It hosts the odd indie- pop or hardcore punk show, but the musical diet tends towards noise, free Music improvisation, ambient and experimental techno. The venue’s punchy, well-tuned sound system is best appreciated when in-house sound engineer Nobuki Nishiyama performs – and literally plays the room. ÆB1F, 3-9-10 Kami-Ochiai, Shinjuku (Ochiai Station). ochiaisoup.com.

Sounds DAIKI SUZUKI BAR ISSHEE This legendary underground music venue closed down from the in Shibuya in  only to reappear in Sendagi, where it’s been building a loyal following since . Bar Isshee is a space for unique performances and magical nights – the venue regularly hosts collaborations between local and underground international musicians from an eclectic range of genres. The bar has regular performers, but Isshee also These alternative music venues specialise in welcomes guest artists from the underground, bringing improvised, noise and ambient music to an eager audience experimental live music from noise to ambient. every day. Entry is free, but Bar Isshee fills up fast, so it’s By the Time Out Tokyo team worth reserving a spot in advance. The bands are paid in tips from the audience, so bring some cash.

JAMES HADFIELD JAMES ÆSendagi Century 21 B1F, 3-36-11 Sendagi, Bunkyo (Sendagi Station). bloc.jp/barisshee.

BEYOND ITS GLITZY clubs and classic cocktail dens, POOL SAKURADAI Tokyo pulses to the beat of In a nondescript building tucked experimental music. From away on a sleepy residential noise and electronica to street in , Pool Sakuradai free jazz and ambient, the is the last place you would think city’s underground music to go looking for underground hotspots host gigs that will music. But once the doors open, impress even the most jaded visitors walk down a brutalist music aficionado. Immerse concrete passage leading to an yourself in Tokyo’s vibrant open basement space with an experimental music scene impressively high ceiling to MANABU MOROOKA MANABU and you’ll find a supportive be treated to some of the most community of fans and MUSIC AND COFFEE ART SPACE BAR BUENA exciting sounds in the city. musicians. Here are some of With an eclectic range of art hanging on its Check out the handmade robots our favourite spots to get you NO UMA walls, both in terms of subject and medium, placed randomly throughout started. Originally a Japanese-style dive bar, this cosy this bar on the second floor of a building right the venue – they’re props for establishment in Okubo really lets you get next to Okubo Station is a visual treat as well as shows by machine performance

involved in the music – after all, wherever a musical one. The small space has the kind of NEGISHIISAO group Kairai-bunch, who puts on you are in this tiny sonic temple, you are right cosy, welcoming vibe that makes you feel like irregular weekend shows that make Transformers look tame. in front of the stage. The retro seats and bar a regular the moment you walk through the Hosting performances by rock and avant-garde artists, hackathons and other counter add a touch of old-school charm. door. interactive events, Pool Sakuradai is part nightclub, part music venue, and part Celebrating its fifth anniversary in , Gigs happen on an irregular basis, so keep collective art space. Be sure to check the website for details on what experimental this unique venue is starting to draw the an eye on the bar’s website for details. The weirdness is happening next. attention of underground music lovers all space has played host to musicians including ÆB2F, 1-7-7 Sakuradai, Nerima (Sakuradai Station). mdel.co.jp/pool. over the world, attracting performers in a Chihei Hatakeyama and Hakobune, and bar wide range of genres including rock, jazz owner Haruhisa Tanaka regularly takes to the and electronic. stage to share his drone and ambient music. ÆThe opening hours of these venues are dependent on performance schedules. ÆB1F, 1-23-17 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku (Shin-Okubo Station). ÆShinjuku Town Plaza Bldg 2F-D, 1-24-8 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku Check their websites or social media pages for upcoming shows. hikarinouma.blogspot.com. (Okubo Station). bar-buena.com.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 60 61 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Nightlife YUKINAKAMURA EL FUJIYAMA BAR SPICULE Mexican With a certified nutritionist as the owner, Established in  as a cocktail and whisky Azabujuban’s El Fujiyama offers a brand- bar, Bar Spicule pivoted to mezcal after owner new take on mezcal. The mezcal and tequila Tetsu fell for the spirit in  . Sangrita, speciality bar tries to give its wide selection a a spicy tomato drink traditionally used as wave more Japanese touch by offering customers a chaser for tequila shots, is reborn in Bar the option of mixing it with local favourites, Spicule as a mixer for beer and mezcal. The In just a few short years, mezcal like shiso and soybean , or presenting it Latin American ambiance and the innovative has gone from local Mexican in a wooden vessel usually used for sake. The drinks here make for an unforgettable bar food, which must be ordered in advance, evening. moonshine to international not only complements the mezcal but ÆFlora Bldg B1F, 1-5-2 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-juban Station). obsession. Here are the best FERRI’S includes lighter options like pumpkin salad 03 3746 0158. spicule.com. 6pm-3am, closed Sun. places in Tokyo to get a taste of The perfect place to kick off your and duck tacos. mezcal education, Ferri’s boasts ÆAnniversary Bldg 2F, 1-6-4 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-juban the smoky Mexican spirit. By the  types of mezcal and tequila Station). 03 6804 5106. elfujiyama.com. 7pm-12midnight, Fri & Sat

Time Out Tokyo team imported from Mexico, along with KISA TOYOSHIMA 7pm-1am, closed Sun. plenty of craft gin and whisky. The bar’s owner, Ferri Kadem, is an officially qualified mezcalero FIRST, A LITTLE BACKGROUND. Tequila is to (mezcal connoisseur), so there’s mezcal what Scotch is to whisky: just one type no one better to guide you through of tipple that’s part of a much bigger category. its many mysteries. If it’s your first But if you’re not into tequila shots with lime encounter with the drink, ask for and salt, don’t worry. Other breeds of mezcal Los Danzantes Reposado: it strikes are generally much richer and smokier than a good balance between earthy tequila, and they’re made to be sipped, not caramel and smoky flavours. knocked back in one go. If your mezcal needs While you’re sipping spirits, a wedge of citrus to wash it down, it might be be sure to order a plate of Ferri’s time to upgrade your drink. nachos – they’re the perfect match That distinctive smokiness is down to for your mezcal, as is the bar’s mezcal’s traditional production process and intimate interior with its stark red wide variety of ingredients. While tequila is walls. Add to the experience Ferri’s made exclusively from the blue agave plant, flowing English conversation and mezcal in general makes use of all varieties of this is the kind of place you can AGAVE agave, giving it a wider range of flavours. And easily spend too much time in. True to its image as a luxury bar, Agave in KISA TOYOSHIMA

unlike tequila producers, who typically cook Æ4-11-11 Nishiazabu, Minato (Hiroo, Nogizaka Roppongi does not rush its customers through KEISUKE TANIGAWA the agave in industrial , most mezcal stations). 03 6427 1221. fb.com/ferrisbar. its drinks. With  kinds of mezcal and MANCHIN SHUTEN BY makers still cook the plant on wood fire in an 7pm-4am, Sun 7pm-12midnight. tequila in stock, ranging in price from a more BAR JIMADOR outdoor pit, meaning smoky, earthy flavours affordable  per shot to a premium , Named after the jimador, or workers who harvest the agave used for MANGOSTEEN are part of the process. the bar gives plenty of time for people to pick distilling, this hidden bar on the second floor of a building five minutes’ walk Mangosteen, the catering company that Unfortunately, the wider world of mezcal out their drinks and sip them at their own from is a dash of Mexico in the middle of Tokyo. The dark, handles major festivals like Fuji Rock, is remains largely unknown in Japan, even pace. In a city that thinks tequila means doing cosy interior is flanked by bright red walls, and the bar itself is lined with branching out into drinks. Under its own though tequila has become a bar staple. Still, shots, the real luxury of a visit to Agave isn’t carved wooden chairs. Rare tequila bottles and Mexican figurines complete Amores brand, the firm distils its own mezcal Tokyo has some hidden mezcal hotspots of its so much the extensive drink selection, it’s the the picture. using  percent organic agave. With more own – you just need to know where to look. atmosphere, encouraging you to take the time Customers can puff on Cuban cigars and sip mezcal from jicaras, than  kinds of mezcal available, Manchin you need to properly savour the mezcal in your traditional mezcal cups made from the fruit of the calabash tree. The Shuten whips up not only good drinks, but also glass. Mezcarita, a mezcal-based margarita with salt and chilli powder adorning plenty of atmosphere as DJs spinning music ÆDM Bldg B1F, 7-18-11 Roppongi, Minato (). 03 the glass rim, is not to be missed. from around the world are a weekend fixture. 3497 0229. tinyurl.com/TOTagave. 6.30pm-2am (last orders 1.30am), ÆTakahashi Bldg 2F, 3-44-1 Yushima, Bunkyo (Ueno-Hirokoji, Yushima stations). 03 5818 0037. twitter.com/ Æ4-29-14 Daizawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa, Ikenoue stations).

Fri & Sat 6.30pm-4am (3.30am), closed Sun & hols on Mon. ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY TETSU FROM BAR SPICULE bar_jimador. 7pm-5am, closed Sun (open if Mon is a hol). 03 6413 8819. mangosteen.vc/shop. 3pm-11pm, closed Mon.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 62 63 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Where to meet LGBT the queens of Tokyo

Shigata Ichikuchi It’s hard not to be a little intimidated Durian Lollobrigida by Shigata Ichikuchi’s nine-inch heels, Durian owes her last name to her favourite Italian but this diva is a warm and impossibly actress, Gina Lollobrigida, and her first name to, you charismatic host and performer. Life’s guessed it, the king of fruits. ‘It’s stinky but tasty,’ she Shinichi co-founded Haus of Gaishoku quips. This veteran performer has been dressing in along with Goma Dango and moved to drag since 2006, but that doesn’t mean she’s planning Tokyo from Osaka to help expand the to slow down anytime soon. Durian attributes her collective. a drag uniqueness to her endless hunger for life. ‘I want to do Shigata previously lived in Paris it all!’ she says. ‘I want to sing and dance and lip sync, where she actively participated in be a fashion model and fall in love, too.’ large-scale pride events and is eager to AKANE KIYOHARA Our favourite Tokyo ÆFollow her on Instagram @masaki_durian bring international LGBT communities together. Whether she’s dressed head Beauty Blenda drag queens and to toe in dominatrix leather or a lavish Beauty Blenda is a fully bilingual event run by Haus of Gaishoku where to meet them. kimono, her acts are often accompanied (Instagram @hausofgaishoku) combining drag performances By Emma Steen by her entourage of admirers who wear with acts featuring contortionists, comedians and even koto matching outfits and wave fans with (traditional Japanese string instrument) players. The show takes Shinichi’s face on them as she takes to place every month at Shinjuku’s Gyoen Rosso 198 and the ¥3,000 WHILE THE TOKYO drag the stage. entry fee includes a couple of Yaas Yen tokens to tip your favourite queen scene can be Æ Follow her on Instagram @shininjpn performers after their numbers. The event is interactive, so don’t be difficult to tap into if you shy and get ready to cheer, dance and sing along. don’t have someone to ÆGyoen Rosso 198 B1F, 2-12-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). show you the ropes, once fb.com/hausofgaishoku. Entry ¥3,000. See Haus of Gaishoku’s you’re introduced to the top social media for upcoming events. queens and clued in to where TARO IREI they perform, the city is your Queen’s Lounge oyster. There are drag nights from Monday to Thursday every week at Watch these professional Shinjuku Ni-chome’s Aisotope Lounge. The Queen’s Lounge events lip syncers put your weekday Goma Dango are a mix of performances, cocktails and casual chit-chat for when shower routines to shame as Named after her favourite you fancy hanging out with bar hosts who are a step above the rest. they slay the stages of Shinjuku. dessert (sweet sesame The fi rst drink is ¥1,800 and it includes a cover charge and bar Contrary to popular belief, drag dumpling), Goma Dango is a snacks. Feel like you can provide some entertainment of your own? queen shows are not exclusive to Jackie of all trades. This curl- Why not have a go on one of the karaoke machines at the bar and the LGBT community – anyone rocking MC is rarely seen in see if you can impress your company with your singing chops. is welcome to be starstruck Vera Strondh less than three outfits in a ÆMon-Thur from 9pm. Aisotope Lounge, 2-12-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku by the stage presence of these Small but mighty, sultry Vera is the life of night, each paired with her (Shinjuku Station). aliving.net. First drink ¥1,800, regular prices multi-talented queens and their every party. With her Ariana Grandesque custom statement necklaces. from second drink onwards. alter-egos. up-do, she loves representing her roots by Goma started performing incorporating some Latina flair into her on stage with the bilingual Dragmania Night at Eagle Tokyo outfits and performances such as a flower in improv group Pirates of Why catch up on RuPaul’s Drag Race alone when you can see the her hair or a scarlett red salsa dress. Tokyo Bay (Instagram @ latest episode in the company of Tokyo’s very own drag queens? Vera started to do drag after receiving piratestokyo). She later In addition to screening the latest episodes of the show, Western- encouragement from her co-workers at famed co-founded the queer style bar Eagle Tokyo also throws on special cocktails, DJs, lip sync gay bar Eagle Tokyo in Shinjuku Ni-chome collective Haus of Gaishoku battles and other performances to entertain you throughout the and credits her drag persona with helping her as a way to combine her night. This is one party RuPaul fanatics won’t want to miss. become stronger and more resilient as she comedy skills with her ÆEagle Tokyo, 2-12-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). Check fb.com/ learned to embrace herself wholeheartedly. drag queen act and provide dragmaniajp for upcoming events. A special edition of Dragmania on Her favourite music genres are jazz and hip performance opportunities Apr 5 will feature Brooke Lynn Hytes from season 11 of RuPaul’s Drag Race hop, but as a dancer of 11 years, this fierce for new talents. She’s a little (dragmaniajp.zaiko.io). showgirl can choreograph jaw-dropping ditzy, delightfully funny and performances to pretty much anything. we can’t help but adore her. A true dynamite. ÆFollow her on Instagram

ÆFollow her on Instagram @verastrondh MARK WEICH @gomadangohno

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 64 65 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo RIGHT HERE, Film RIGHT NOW

Want to go out and about in Tokyo? Whether it’s a comedy show, a live gig or even a music festival, you can now book your tickets through us. Movie timeout.com/tokyo/book-tokyo-tickets dinners Forget popcorn and slushies – these Tokyo cinemas serve up gourmet meals to go with your movie. By Mari Hiratsuka POLE POLE HIGASHI NAKANO Pick up our magazine and maps here: Just a short walk from Higashi-, this little cinema Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stations: screens cult films and socially conscious documentaries. The theatre Select Toei Subway stations, including IN A CITY AS FOOD-OBSESSED as Tokyo, it’s no surprise café is a popular local hangout with a small art gallery in the back, so Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Center Shinjuku and Roppongi that some cinemas take food as seriously as film. These you can check out the creations on the walls with a chai tea or cocktail You can now get Tourist information centres: movie theatres go far beyond the typical junk food, in hand. If you’re feeling peckish, we recommend the café’s Indian Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters your copy of Time Shibuya-san Tourist Information & Art Center offering restaurant-quality meals to savour. For your speciality: keema curry. Out Tokyo magazine Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre next movie night, head to one of these cinemas, skip the ÆPole Pole Za Bldg 1F, 4-4-1 Higashi-Nakano, Nakano (Higashi-Nakano Station). 03 3227 1445. delivered – we even ship Tokyo City Air Terminal popcorn and sit down for a leisurely meal either side of 9.30am-8.30pm (last orders 8pm), closed Tue. internationally! Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk the show. Tokyo City i Visit time-out-tokyo. ... and more tourist information centres myshopify.com. Airports: Haneda Airport (International Terminal) Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store Books Kinokuniya Tokyo UPLINK SHIBUYA Tower Records Shibuya This mini cinema in Shibuya ... and more shops shows lots of indie and arthouse Restaurants: flicks, along with documentaries Time Out Café & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) and experimental films. The All British Pub Hub locations in Tokyo venue is run by Uplink, known ... and more restaurants for distributing avant-garde KINOHAUS Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan films by famed directors such A collection of independent member concierge: as Alejandro Jodorowsky and cinemas in one building, ANA InterContinental Tokyo Xavier Dolan. On the first floor, Kinohaus has something for The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo you’ll find Tabela, a café and everyone, from the arthouse TIME OUT READERS will know Each edition squeezes the best All of these publications, along Park Hyatt Tokyo restaurant serving Middle Eurospace to the more about our popular series of free of the capital into a compact guide, with issues of our free quarterly Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Eastern and North African food. classically-minded Cinema Vera. maps: pocket-sized guides to the complete with a city map, and magazine, are available to pick Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel On weekdays during happy hour But what keeps us coming back multifarious delights this city has we’ve included everything from up at Shibuya Station’s Tourist Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo (3pm-5pm), you can grab a beer is the first-floor café and live to offer. They’re hard to miss these oeat art galleries and otaku Information Center, conveniently Hotel Okura Tokyo or a glass of wine for just ¥250. music venue Cafe9, serving up an days – as well as our ever-popular meccas to ancient shrines and located in the underground The Prince Park Tower Tokyo ÆTotsune Bldg 1F, 37-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya eclectic menu featuring fish and ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ and hipster hangouts. passage on the second basement Royal Park Hotel Tokyo ... and more hotels (Shibuya Station). 03 6825 5501. uplink.co.jp/ chips, Hawaiian loco moco, beef the comprehensive ‘88 things to We’ve also expanded the series floor of the station. The English- tabela. Hours vary by day. curry, cakes and more. do in Tokyo’, we’ve come up with to include places beyond Tokyo, speaking guides will help you Note: If you can’t nd the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run Æ Kinohaus 1F, Maruyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya maps for nearly all the top areas launching special maps for stock up, provide sightseeing tips out of stock. Please be patient while we work Station). 03 5784 1239. 12noon-5.30pm daily including Shinjuku, Asakusa, those of you heading to Osaka or and assist you in navigating the on the next print run. (only terrace seats and take-outs when there’s an Ikebukuro, Ginza, Arakawa and Yokohama – both make for a great bowels of the cavernous station Please direct any advertising queries to

event). CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA INFORMATION SHIBUYA Tokyo Station. mini getaway from the capital. itself. [email protected].

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 66 67 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels Travel & Islands Hotels in the sun Looking for an easy day trip from Tokyo? Try these islands off the Kanagawa coast just south of the

capital. By Kaila Imada MOKE'S HAWAII Enoshima Sea Candle Moke’s Hawaii Don’t leave Enoshima without Get into the island mood at taking in the jawdropping scenery Moke’s, an Instagrammable café THE STUNNING KANAGAWA COASTLINE is from this lighthouse observation complete with fluffy pancakes often overshadowed by the popular tourist tower. A ¥500 (¥250 for children) and cute décor. Diners can expect destinations nearby such as Kamakura and entry gets you up to the viewing menu offerings such as Moke’s Yokohama, but the Miura Peninsula, located deck, but for ¥800 (¥400) you can signature lilikoi pancakes, just south of Yokohama, has plenty of great purchase an Enoshima Sea Candle which come topped with a tangy Enospa spots which are worth a visit. In particular, Ticket, which also gives you access passion fruit sauce, and the For a bit of relaxation, nothing beats some onsen (hot spring bath) time the four islands of Enoshima, Hakkeijima, to the Enoshima Samuel Cocking equally delicious macadamia nut at Enospa. The wellness complex is located right on the island’s coast Sarushima and Jogashima are easily accessible Garden as well as the escalator pancakes. The café also features and features natural hot springs plus ten different heated pools where from Tokyo and offer numerous seaside connecting the ground level to the Enoshima-exclusive dishes using you can even wear your swimsuit. Although the hot spring baths are activities, outdoor excursions and plenty of base of the lighthouse on the hill. shirasu, or whitebait – a speciality separated by gender, the pools are open to all. Highlights include the fresh seafood. From the top of the Sea Candle, of the area. stunning outdoor infinity pool looking out over the ocean as well as a Direct trains run from to enjoy a great view of Mt Fuji to the Æ1-6-8 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture cave pool with a perfect view of Mt Fuji. Don’t forget to try out the sauna the Kanagawa coast, and from there it’s an easy west, Miura Peninsula to the east (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima and the carbonated hot spring bath – it’s supposed to relieve tiredness walk across a bridge or a short ferry ride to the and Oshima Island just south. stations). 0466 47 7794. mokeskailua-japan.com. and boost your metabolism. islands. Some of the tourist destinations can Æ2-3-28 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture 10am-6pm (closed Wed during Nov-Feb). Æ2-1-6 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima stations). be paired up into one convenient trip, but we (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima 0466 29 0688. enoshimaislandspa.com. Regular season (Mar-Nov) 10am-10pm (full day spa), 6pm-10pm recommend saving islands like Enoshima and stations). 0466 23 2444. enoshima-seacandle.com. (night spa), summer (Jul-Aug) 6pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm, winter (Dec-Feb) 6pm-9pm, Sat & Sun Jogashima for individual day trips, as they take 9am-8pm daily. 11am-9pm. Pool last entry, one hour before closing. a bit longer to get to.

ENOSHIMA The island of Enoshima lies off the Shonan coast on the western side of Kanagawa, and Yokohama Hakkeijima Seaside Paradise is connected to the mainland by a bridge This amusement park is an ideal spot for kids – even the (open to cars and pedestrians). Home to a kind that have a career and a mortgage. There are two main wealth of cultural monuments, cute cafés and areas – Pleasure Land and Aqua Resorts – and no entrance sightseeing activities, Enoshima is one of the fee, so you can pay as you go for each attraction or pick up an best-known spots in Kanagawa. When the all-inclusive ticket. weather’s clear, you can even see Mt Fuji from The Aqua Museum aquarium – in the Aqua Resorts the island. area, of course – is worth a visit in itself for the 120,000 sea Confusingly the island’s must-see Enoshima creatures living there, comprised of 700 different species Shrine is actually three different shrines spread ranging from dolphins and sharks to penguins and polar out across the island. The main one is located bears. At the Umi Farm, visitors can try their hand at fishing on the route to the picturesque Enoshima Sea before cooking up their catch right on the spot. Candle observation tower. While making your Pleasure Island is a more typical amusement park: take in way around the island, stop off at the Iwaya the view from the Sea Paradise Tower, or enjoy the scenery Caves inside the cliffs on the southern coast. at top speed from the roller coaster swooping over the water. Visitors can walk through the caverns, but don’t And speaking of water, you can even cruise on a pirate ship forget to turn around and enjoy the gorgeous through the high seas – there’s plenty to keep you busy view out over the ocean. HAKKEIJIMA during your visit. A small island just south of Yokohama, Hakkeijima is home to a marine-focussed Don’t miss the colourful seaside garden at Hakkeijima, How to get there: The most convenient access amusement park boasting an adrenaline-pumping rollercoaster, an aquarium and where you’ll find cherry blossoms in April and is through Enoshima Station, which is just much more besides. There’s even a hotel on the island, so you can turn your day trip approximately 20,000 hydrangeas come June. under 40 minutes from Yokohama Station via into a leisurely weekend by the sea. ÆYokohama Hakkeijima Seaside Paradise, Hakkeijima, Kanazawa, Yokohama, Kanagawa the Tokaido Main and Enoden lines. If you’re prefecture (Hakkeijima Station). 045 788 8888. seaparadise.co.jp. Hours vary by facility. coming from Tokyo Station, the train trip How to get there: Hakkeijima Station is approximately 40 minutes by train from will take about an hour and 10 minutes. From Yokohama Station, and just under an hour and 20 minutes from Shinagawa Station Enoshima Sea Candle Enoshima Station, it’s just a 20-minute walk to in central Tokyo. From Hakkeijima Station, an easy 10-minute walk across the nearby the island. bridge will bring you to the island.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 68 69 April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels 123,0#%(,*,&#"4,+#/0,

SARUSHIMA Beachside activities The island of Sarushima, just off the coast of After a full day of sunbathing and swimming, Yokosuka, is a popular getaway spot during the it’s time for a barbecue feast. Sarushima warmer months, boasting gorgeous beaches has public beachside grills and equipment and a number of summer events. You can visit available for rent – all you need to do is bring during winter, too, but ferry times are limited the food. to weekends and holidays. This little bayside If partying your day away on a beach sounds O%3,"#$%&'("<)/P66 " paradise – the only natural island in Tokyo Bay more your style, be sure to visit Sarushima – is best explored on foot and features ruins of during one of the island’s festivals. Annual a former fortress, a picturesque observation music fests like Good Music Party in summer point, as well as barbecue spots for a grilling and the Yokosuka Art & Music Festival in 6)3,"+.)/#"#$,"5)#,6" session near the beach. autumn turn the island into a musical oasis.

How to get there: Sarushima is best accessed Ruins by ferry. The trip takes about 10 minutes; the Sarushima was a defence station for the Port ferry runs daily from March 1 to November of Yokosuka from the Edo period (1603–1868) 7,8"9#+&%":);<) 30, but it’s only weekends and holidays from right up until World War II. You’ll still see traces December 1 to February 28. The closest station of the old fortifications, including the island’s is Yokosuka-Chuo Station, about a 15-minute red brick barracks and long defence tunnels, all @?"%"(&.%&LMNG&'8,#&6.,.#8+,&A8:;89,& walk from the dock. Yokosuka-Chuo Station is of which are gradually being overgrown by the <.+,#&@-;=?.*,1&D8#"-&F"$&@#)%.&A8:;8&$),& less than 30 minutes by train from Yokohama island’s flourishing plants. 8%"&8<&#'"&<.+,#&-2E2+;&'8#"-,&.%&#'"&*.#;&O&72#& Station and about 45 minutes from Shinagawa #'.,&0+)%("&()="&8<&#'"&<.6"/,#)+&,*"%"&,#.--& KURO/PIXTA Station. =8+"&#')%&'8-(,&'"+&8$%&)0).%,#&#'"&;82%0& 2?,#)+#,C&D"+"9,&<.6"&#'.%0,&;829--&-86"&)782#& 8%"&8<&82+&<)682+.#"&?-)*",&,#);C JOGASHIMA Located just off the southern tip of the Miura Peninsula, Jogashima is a small island boasting stunning nature, great seafood and views of Mt Fuji. Small restaurants and JAPANESE GARDEN shops are dotted across the sleepy island, as well as two D8#"-&F"$&@#)%.&A8:;89,&08+0"82,&-)%(,*)?"& lighthouses, a lookout point, hotels and guesthouses. 0)+("%,&()#"&7)*:&)+82%(&GHH&;")+,&)%(&8<<"+&)& The town of Misaki, your mainland gateway to the island, ?8*:"#&8<&#+)%I2.--.#;&.%&#'"&*"%#+"&8<&#'"&$8+-(9,& is famous for its abundant tuna. Misaki is also home to a 72JJ.",#&="#+8?8-.,C&K.#'&)&6"+=.-.8%&7+.(0"& couple of fresh fish markets, making it a great spot to sample *+8,,.%0&)&*)+?/<.--"(&?8%(1&)&+"-)E.%0&+8*:& local sashimi. 0)+("%1&)&$)#"+<)--1&*'"++;&#+"",&#')#&7-2,'&?.%:& .%&,?+.%0&)%(&=8=.>.&=)?-"&-")6",&#')#&72+%& How to get there: A 50-minute train ride from Yokohama 7+.0'#&+"(&.%&)2#2=%1&$8%("+&)$).#,&;82&)+82%(& Station will get you to Misakiguchi Station. From there, the "6"+;&*8+%"+C SEKISHIN-TEI Keikyu bus will take you to Jogashima in about 30 minutes. K.#'&RQ&+",#)2+)%#,1&D8#"-&F"$&@#)%.&A8:;8&8<<"+,& If you’re coming from Shinagawa Station, the train trip to #'"&$8+-(&8%&)&?-)#"1&72#&.#&.,&,#"):&+",#)2+)%#& Misakiguchi Station takes roughly an hour and 10 minutes. S":.,'.%/#".&$"&+"#2+%&#.="&)%(&#.="&)0).%& *"-"7+)#"&,?"*.)-&8**),.8%,C&S.#2)#"(&.%&#'"&'")+#& 8<&#'"&0)+("%,1&#'.,&#"??)%;):.&#"=?-"&8<<"+,&#'"& Misaki Maguro #"%("+",#&8<&$)0;2&*2#,&*88:"(&8%&#'"&'8#&?-)#"&.%& Day Trip Ticket <+8%#&8<&;82+&";",C

Make the most of the Kanagawa coast by purchasing the Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket. The one- day pass gives you a round-trip ride on the Keikyu Line (from Yokohama Station or Tokyo’s Shinagawa Station) as well as VIEW & DINING THE SKY EXECUTIVE HOUSE ZEN unlimited Keikyu bus rides for P?&8%&#'"&LQ#'&<-88+&8<&#'"&=).%$"+1&#'.,& S.%*"&.#,&("72#&.%&THHQ1&UE"*2#.6"&D82,"&V"%&'),& Isokaze Urari Market the day. Best of all, you get a meal ,$)%:.",#&8<&72<<"#&+",#)2+)%#,&8<<"+,&,""=.%0-;& 7""%&)&<-)0,'.?&8<<"+.%0&)#&D8#"-&F"$&@#)%.&A8:;81& This quaint seafood restaurant is attached to the This seafood market in Misaki specialises in ticket for fresh seafood at one "%(-",,&*'8.*"&)%(&"%6"-8?.%0&$+)?)+82%(&6."$,& TEA CEREMONY EXPERIENCE )%(&.#&$),&+"*"%#-;&)$)+("(&)&<.6"/,#)+&+)#.%0&7;&#'"& Jogashima Keikyu Hotel. We recommend the tuna, but you’ll also find snacks to eat right of the 32 participating maguro 8<&#'"&="#+8?8-.,C&K.#'&6."$,&-.:"&#'","&#'"&:.#*'"%& UE?"+."%*"&#")&=):.%0&.%&)&#+)(.#.8%)-&#")&*"+"=8%;& W8+7",&A+)6"-&X2.("&THTHC&A'"&,?)*.82,&+88=,&)+"& excellent lunch sets, so you can try out the area’s on the spot. Look out for the swordfish gyoza, (tuna) restaurants in Misaki and *)%9#&'"-?&72#&?2--&.%&#'"&?2%#"+,&O&)%(&.#&+",?8%(,& +88=&*8=?-"#"&$.#'&#)#)=.&=)#,C&A'"&+",.("%#&#")& "-"0)%*"&.#,"-<&$.#'&*-")%&-.%",1&,.=?-"&72#&#),#"<2-& specialities including maguro (tuna) donburi steamed tuna buns, and a variety of puddings. Jogashima island. .%&,#;-"&$.#'&2?,*)-"&(.,'",&<+8=&-.6"&*88:.%0& =),#"+&$.--&#")*'&;82&'8$&?+"?)+"&)%(&,)682+& <2+%.,'.%0,&)%(1&.<&;829+"&-2*:;1&6."$,&82#&)*+8,,&#'"& and shirasu (white bait) donburi rice bowls. For more options, head up to the second floor ÆFrom ¥3,480. Passes can be ,#)#.8%,&)%(&)&,#"--)+&$.%"&*"--)+C&K)%("+.%0& *"+"=8%.)-/0+)("&=)#*')C&A'.,&TH/=.%2#"&-",,8%& +8,"&0)+("%&)%(&8%&#'"&@-;=?.*&S#)(.2=&7";8%(C& But it’s not just about the food – the restaurant for fresh produce, including locally grown fruit purchased at Keikyu Line stations 7"#$""%&*2-.%)+;&("-.0'#,&)-,8&)--8$,&;82&#.="& *8=",&$.#'&$)0),'.1&)&*-),,.*&*8%<"*#.8%"+;&2,2)--;& X2",#,&*)%&"%>8;&=")-,&.%&#'"&,?"*.)-&-82%0"&)%(& is situated on the west coast, boasting the and vegetables, plus a bakery and a juice bar. (excluding Sengakuji and Misakiguchi (+.%:&.%&#'"&?)%8+)=)C =)("&<+8=&,$""#&7")%&?),#"C *8=?-.="%#)+;&)**",,&#'"&'8#"-9,&-)%02.(&,?)C best lookout to Mt Fuji in clear weather. The There’s also an outdoor deck with tables, chairs stations). For more information visit Jogashima Lighthouse behind the restaurant is and views of the harbour. haneda-tokyo-access.com/en/ticket/ also worth a visit for its panoramic views. Æ5-3-1 Misaki, Miura, Kanagawa prefecture (Misakiguchi Station). discount/maguro-day.html. Æ693 Jogashima, Misakimachi, Miura, Kanagawa prefecture 046 881 6721. umigyo.co.jp. Seafood market 9am-5pm, Sun 7am-5pm; Æ"5)#,6"7,8"9#+&%":);<)=">?@"A%)%B$)="C$%<)2+ (Misakiguchi Station). 046 881 5151. 10am-3.30pm, Sat & Sun vegetable market 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5pm. D7+'+#+B$)="1;+(+;+?E%#(/;,"(#+#%)&(FG"HI"IJK!"@@@@G"&,8)#+&%GB)GLMN,&N#);<)G

10am-4.30pm. KISA TOYOSHIMA

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 70 Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 22/10/2013 12:46 Page 77

Getting Around GETTING THERE & AWAY NARITA AIRPORT which will cost you over ¥20,000 The main international airport, and take up to two hours. Narita is roughly 70km away from central Tokyo. The fastest HANEDA AIRPORT GoingGoing underground? underground? way to reach the city is either the The airport most Tokyoites Getting (53 minutes to love for its sheer convenience, Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system Tokyo Station, generally runs Haneda is actually the bigger Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system every 30 minutes, ¥4,070 round and busier airport, but sees a trip) or the Keisei lot of domestic traffi c. Getting Around (41 minutes to , into town is easiest by Tokyo up to three times an hour, Monorail (to Hamamatsucho ¥2,520). Station, about 13 minutes, The cheaper option, which ¥500) or the Keikyu line (to takes around 90 minutes, is Shinagawa Station, about 13 the Airport Bus TYO-NRT minutes, ¥300). to Tokyo Station (every 10 The Keikyu bus goes to minutes at peak times, ¥1,000, many central destinations; or ¥2,000 for late night and it takes about an hour from early morning, pay on board or the international terminal to reserve online). Otherwise, take Shibuya (¥1,050 one way, ¥1,600 Your Tokyo the Narita Access Express train round trip). A taxi is also semi- to Nihonbashi (slightly over an economical from Haneda, with hour, ¥1,350). fares to central Tokyo being around You should avoid taking a taxi, ¥7,000 (pre-book for a fl at fee).

starter pack Getting Around All you need to know for an easy, enjoyable holiday in the metropolis. By the Time Out Tokyo team GETTING ONLINE

Public wi-fi used to be sparse, but nowadays it’s easy to fi nd. Reception can be a bit patchy though, so your best bet for staying online at all times is to buy a data SIM card or rent a pocket wi-fi . GETTING AROUND Get yours at the airport (either at a vending machine or a wi-fi counter), or at larger Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera stores. Tokyo’s public transport map that can also be used to buy things looks like the deranged scribbles at convenience stores, vending of a toddler, but it’s one of the machines and much more. most amazing networks in the Day passes for Tokyo Metro, world: punctual, convenient and Toei subways, Toei buses and JR virtually all-encompassing. Do trains are available too and cost MONEY note there is no public transport ¥500 to ¥1,600 depending on the service at night; most trains, range of services. If you plan to Cash is still king in Tokyo, although more and more places have metros and buses run from 4am move around in one day, this may started accepting cards in recent years. Don’t expect your local ramen or 5am until around midnight be the cheaper option. joint to be one of them, though. For foreign cards, the 7-Eleven and JP (1am on certain lines). Taxis are reasonably aff ordable Post (post offi ce) ATMs are the most reliable. Some FamilyMarts now Public transport consists of for short distances or if you’re have JP Post ATMs installed – look out for a green machine. metro, train and bus, all of which with a small group of up to four For foreign currency, seek out the exchange booths and machines are run by several diff erent people. It’s ¥410 for the fi rst around major JR train stations (often off ering better rates than companies. To save yourself the 1.052km and then rolls at a rate of at the airport). Or, get it done at major department stores such as hassle of having to buy separate ¥80 for every 233m. A 20 percent Mitsukoshi, and Takashimaya. tickets each time, get a or night surcharge is usually added Pasmo, a rechargeable smart card between 10pm and 5am.

SAFETY TAX-FREE SHOPPING Tokyo, and Japan in general, In case of a severe earthquake is pretty darn safe. But on the or other natural disasters such For non-Japanese tourists day, plus tax-free consumables off -chance that you fi nd as typhoon, check the Japan staying in Japan for less than six should not be opened while in yourself the victim of a Meteorological Agency’s months, it’s possible to avoid Japan and need to be taken out crime – or have simply lost website for updates in English: the 10 percent consumption of the country within 30 days of something – head to the nearest www.jma.go.jp. To know tax while shopping – just look purchase, or within six months koban (‘police box’), usually what to do in such a situation out for the ‘Japan Tax-free for non-consumables. Also, found at the corner of bigger or how to prepare, check out Shop’ stickers. Here are the you have to bring your actual intersections. They’ll be able to the multilingual Disaster requirements: minimum passport, ie no photocopy and no help you out. The emergency Prevention Portal, www.mlit. purchase of ¥5,000 per shop per scanned copy on your phone. services number is 119. go.jp/river/bousai/olympic. Note: prices are correct at time of print, but may change without prior notice. Check the respective websites for the latest information.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020 72 73 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyoApril-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo77 … robots are your friends You know By Kasey Furutani you’re IT’S NO SECRET THAT JAPAN loves its robots. From ‘Astro Boy’ comics in the 1950s to today’s favourite robot cat Doraemon, robots have always been prevalent in Japanese in Tokyo pop culture, but now they are inhabiting the real world. Unlike the human-destroying robots commonly seen in sci-fi films, Japan’s real robots are friendly and happy to help – when… whether that’s assisting the disabled or acting as social companion. Tamagotchi these are not – here are some of the cute, weird and very advanced robots you can meet in Tokyo.

Qoobo Sometimes the best part of having a pet is the warm and furry aff ection. Not quite a dog or a cat, Qoobo is a therapy robot that responds to Miraitowa and Someity touch. When stroked lightly, its tail will move The Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic mascots, Miraitowa and Someity, have been gently and when played with, the tail will turned into actual robots by the Toyota Motor Corporation. Unlike other task-oriented move quickly, like a dog having fun. A portable Olympic robots that will help clean balls off tennis courts or broadcast the Games, size will be released soon, so you can take your Miraitowa and Someity are more like cute ambassadors – cameras on their foreheads pillow-bot to work, on the train or wherever will sense humans nearby and they’ll wave and shake hands with people. A perfect robot you need therapy – or want to scare people. introduction for young kids, Miraitowa and Someity are just a couple of friendly ’bots Æqoobo.info. ¥12,120. looking to bond with humans. Ætokyo2020.org

Aibo Bocco Emo Lovot You can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but you The clown-like Bocco Emo has a deeper task Derived from the words ‘love’ and ‘robot’, the can programme a robot dog. Sony’s Aibo has than just sitting around looking like a Dalek penguin-like Lovot doesn’t do much besides been around since 1999 but the most recent in a snowman costume. The robot is used to follow you around the house on its wheel feet, model comes with new APIs so the owner relay messages: parents record a message watch you from a webcam ‘horn’ atop its head can direct Aibo to recognise objects and and Bocco Emo will play it to the kids once and love you. Everything about Lovot is made movements; the mechanical mutt can also be they return home from school. Unlike the to create an emotional bond: it begs to be ‘potty trained’. Ideal for apartment dwellers, fi rst-gen Bocco, which only relays messages, touched and coos when hugged; it will wheel Aibo is just as playful as a regular puppy, minus Bocco Emo also shows emotion. Humans to the door when you return home and ignore the warm aff ection and shedding. Good thing can confi de in the robot and Bocco Emo’s you if treated poorly. If you become really Aibo won’t bother the neighbours with endless cheeks will glow and either chirp or whine in attached to your Lovot, you can even purchase yapping – you can programme that right out. response, depending on the word choice. a matching wardrobe for it. Æaibo.sony.jp. ¥198,000. Æbocco.me. Bocco ¥29,000, Bocco Emo to be released in May. Ælovot.life. ¥299,800.

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