angola • • • •

a journey through

KAZAKavango Transfrontier Conservation Area introduction KAZA in focus

Experience wildlife, safari adventure, community and culture in the heart of Africa

The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation he KAZA Transfrontier T Conservation Area (TFCA) Area (KAZA) is the world’s largest transfrontier initiative is led by the governments of the five partner countries. land-based conservation area. Its mission is: “To sustainably manage the Kavango Zambezi ecosystem, its heritage and Spanning the borders of five southern African cultural resources based on best conservation and tourism countries – , Botswana, Namibia, Zambia models for the socio-economic well-being of the communities and Zimbabwe – covering an area of over and other stakeholders in and around the eco-region through 519 000 sq km (200 387 sq miles) and boasting harmonisation of policies, strategies and practices.” three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it’s a A trip across the numerous borders within the KAZA area has treasure trove of natural and cultural wonders. any bucket list overflowing with possibilities: iconic wilderness settings that are home to the greatest density and variety of African animals, the opportunity to meet locals in rewarding cultural Image: Björn Lauen KAZA’S UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES

Image: Jacques Marais

MOSI-OA-TUNYA / The Zambezi River is 1.7km (1 mile) wide when it plunges noisily into the gorges that make up the Victoria Falls. The spray’s iridescent mist, creating pockets of rainforest, can be seen 20km (12 miles) away. Image: Dietmar Denger

Image: James Kydd interactions, experiencing real how to transform a trip into a more eco-tourism and conservation in rewarding experience through Annual floodwaters fill this action, and visiting three UNESCO engaging with the community, unique inland delta, saturating World Heritage Sites – Mosi-oa- culture and conservation of KAZA. its sand basin to create a pristine Tunya/Victoria Falls, the Okavango This creates a holistic and fulfilling wetland that’s considered a site Delta and the Bushmen paintings travel itinerary that addresses the of Outstanding Universal Value. of Tsodilo Hills. sensitivities and aspirations of The Delta satisfies every safari desire to see diverse species and KAZA comprises a mosaic today’s travellers. endangered animals. of land uses, with 36 formally The following information proclaimed national parks and puts KAZA in focus and offers a numerous other protected areas selection of activities to get the and communal lands. The amount most out of a trip to the area. of flora and fauna is outstanding, This includes suggestions on home to nearly 75% of southern how to interact meaningfully Africa’s , 24% of the with communities and their world’s remaining endangered wild rich cultural heritage, support dog and around 600 bird species. local enterprises, engage with But there is more to conservation projects, experience Image: Björn Lauen experiencing KAZA than wildlife, from safari drives to conventional safari activities fishing and birding, and visit TSODILO HILLS and wildlife encounters on game unmissable World Heritage Sites. drives, bush walks and boat Welcome to KAZA… This quartzite rock outcrop in the flat contains over excursions. This brochure shows 4 500 sacred and symbolic rock art paintings in their original state, recording human activity for more than 100 000 years.

1 introduction

ost travellers are used to a the Okavango, Zambezi, Chobe and M landscape that remains fairly Kafue swell and spread across vast Visiting constant, with perhaps a mountain floodplains, wetlands and . or lake creating a detour from the Local rainfall from November most direct route. In KAZA, nothing to March is not what saturates is constant. The conditions are the Okavango Delta, inundates KAZA forever changing when rivers like the Chobe and Zambezi River floodplains or makes the Mosi-oa- Tunya/Victoria Falls gush with fury. Understanding the These spectacles are caused by the arrival of floodwaters from the landscape of this five- Angolan and Zambian highlands, country conservation and which have travelled south for about four months to reach the development initiative KAZA region, before spreading out across the Kalahari sand basin. makes travel easy. This enormous volume of water, filling rivers and submerging

KAZA UNIVISA ANGOLA Menongue ZAMBIA

While wildlife can migrate through Cuito Cuanavale Kafue corridors uninterrupted, humans Kafue Lusaka still have to stamp in and out of NP KAZA’s five countries. Aimed at growing tourism in the region, the KAZA UNIVISA was first rolled out in 2016 as a 30-day visa for unlimited travel between Zambia Mavinga NP and Zimbabwe, and with a limited Zambezi 24-hour trip into Botswana. There Lake Kariba have since been consultations Matusadona Sioma Ngwezi victoria falls aimed at implementing the UNIVISA NP erita NP h g ZIMBABWE across Angola and Namibia – and d e Luengue-Luiana NP

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o e even beyond. On arrival at any w international entry point within Rundu Chizarira KAZA, enquire whether that country Livingstone NP Harare Bwabwata NP is offering the KAZA UNIVISA. K Mudumu Zambezi NP kavangozambezi.org w Cho e Victoria Falls a NP b n Major Town O d o ka Kazuma Pan v okavango delta NP a Nkasa n Port of Entry erita - g h g Lupala Chobe o e d

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NP w Airport erita h g d e i l s er ta h g

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w World Heritage Site NAMIBIA Hwange NP tsodilo hills Country Border

Image: Craig Pusey Photography Nxai Pan Major Road NP DRIVING TIPS Maun Main Road Bulawayo Secondary Road Driving in KAZA is made easy by Makgadikgadi downloadable GPS maps and self- Pans NP Makgadikgadi Track drive guidebooks. Information on Pans border requirements, camping and National Park attractions can also be found online. Don’t forget to drive on the left. 0 50 100 150 Other Protected Area km BOTSWANA

2 vast grasslands, means that in a KAZA itinerary and enjoy the upliftment to local communities. the landscape in wet season is opportunities that this area has to This often involves mitigation of completely different to that in dry offer. human-wildlife conflict, especially season. Getting around, avoiding The brochure also identifies in Wildlife Dispersal Areas (WDAs). impassable roads, crossing rivers and KAZA’s objectives to manage the There are numerous innovative often country-hopping requires the Kavango-Zambezi ecosystem by examples in the following pages expert advice of ground handlers and putting into practice sustainable of how this is being done, such as tour operators. tourism and conservation models, building -proof cattle kraals This overview, presented in while at the same time providing and enlisting local communities chapters showing cross-border economic opportunities and to be wildlife guardians in return possibilities and highlighting the for financial benefits. Such freedom of travelling in KAZA, projects are intrinsically linked has specific examples of new and to KAZA’s efforts to facilitate free unique ways to enhance human movement of animals along six connections and intensify identified WDA corridors, allowing experiential travel. Follow wildlife to follow their instinct to these suggestions to migrate across great distances, include more variety irrespective of country borders.

ANGOLA Menongue ZAMBIA

Cuito Cuanavale Kafue Kafue Lusaka NP

Mavinga NP Zambezi Lake Kariba

Matusadona Sioma Ngwezi victoria falls NP erita NP h g ZIMBABWE

d e Luengue-Luiana NP

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Rundu Kasane Chizarira Livingstone NP Harare Bwabwata NP K Mudumu Zambezi NP w Cho e Victoria Falls a NP b n Major Town O d o ka Kazuma Pan v okavango delta NP a Nkasa n Port of Entry erita - g h g Lupala Chobe o e d

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NP w Airport erita h g d e i l s er ta h g

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w World Heritage Site NAMIBIA Hwange NP tsodilo hills Country Border

Nxai Pan Major Road NP Maun Main Road Bulawayo Secondary Road Makgadikgadi Pans NP Makgadikgadi Track Pans National Park

0 50 100 150 Other Protected Area km BOTSWANA

3 introduction

KAZA is a colourful celebration of cultures, languages and traditions. There’s no one description that can define the tremendous diversity of this transfrontier area, inhabited by people who identify not just with five different countries, but with a multitude of tribes.

People of KAZA

Image: Carrie Hampton

FOR THE LOVE OF LANGUAGE

he many and diverse cultures spoken in parts of the Zambezi T of KAZA live side by side, each River Valley is different to that speaking their own language but spoken on the plateau, and is also those of their near neighbours, almost unintelligible to the Tonga and usually a couple of dialects, too. of Malawi or the Tsonga (Tonga) of Gilbert Kaimfa from Livingstone is Mozambique. a Tonga who also speaks Toka-Leya, Bantu languages often use Lozi and four other African dialects, prefixes to indicate a category for as well as English. With more than a noun, for example, ba- or mo- can 70 different tribes and many more distinguish people (Batonga), and vernaculars across Zambia alone, chi- or si- can signify the language, his eight languages will only get as in Chitonga. In Botswana, all him understood within a radius of citizens are referred to as Batswana, a few hundred kilometres from his one person is a Motswana and the home. One thing shared by most national language is Setswana. cultural groups of KAZA is the However, the country boasts a staple carbohydrate dish of maize- variety of other local languages. meal porridge. For Gilbert, it’s called Common to all language groups nshima, but across the Victoria Falls is protocol and courtesy, and all Bridge in Zimbabwe, and in much conversations start with the polite of Botswana, it’s known as sadza, enquiry, ‘Good morning/good while Namibians refer to it as pap afternoon, how are you?’ Master or inkoko. this greeting in the local language Another example of language with the help of a guide, and the complexity is how the Chitonga people of KAZA will open their language of the Tonga people hearts to you.

tribal hierarchy A knowledge of tribal hierarchy will who represents a number of villages on foster a greater understanding of the tribal council (khuta), which is the cultural protocols when meeting highest legislative, administrative and the people of KAZA. This example judicial body in the tribal area. This is of traditional tribal structure from presided over by the chief councillor Namibia’s is common (ngambela) and, ultimately, by the to many tribes. Each village has a chief of that traditional authority. The headman – or more frequently these ngambela communicates the chief’s days a headwoman – who consults with wishes to the community through the a senior headman/headwoman (induna) induna and vice versa. Image: Björn Lauen

4 introduction

AngolaAngola ZambiaZambia

ZimbabweZimbabwe

NamibiaNamibia BotswanaBotswana

connecting the dots – wildlife migrati0n corridors People of KAZA Six Wildlife Dispersal Areas have been identified in KAZA, offering critical linkages for animals to migrate between countries through protected areas. Creating a sustainable wildlife economy that benefits people living in these areas and encourages them to conserve wildlife is a priority. ●● Zambezi-Chobe-Floodplain ●● Hwange-Kuzuma–Chobe ●● Kwando River ●● Zambezi-Mosi-oa-Tunya ●● Hwange-Makgadikgadi-Nxai ●● Khaudum-Ngamiland

symbols of kinship

Totems serve as emblems to denote kinship or a mystical relationship with an animal or plant. Those who share the same totem are considered as relatives, even if not by blood. Totems also distinguish clans from each other. For example, the different clans of the Shona people of Zimbabwe are identified by at least 25 different totems, including the Ngwena (crocodile), Shumba (lion), Nzou () and Dziva (hippo). Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta of Zambia’s Shesheke chiefdom has decorated his Mwandi palace gates with a buffalo totem, symbolising the fierce defence skills used to repel invasion of the territory.

Image: Carrie Hampton

a royal occasion Barotse culture permeates the Zambian quarter of KAZA. In March or April, when the floodwaters have risen, the Kuomboka ceremony marks the occasion when the litunga (king) is paddled by over 100 warriors in the royal barge down the Zambezi River to his winter palace on higher land. This spectacle is steeped in ritual, characterising the unity of the and their links with the landscape. Image: Sarah Kerr

5 zambia • zimbabwe

Angola Almost every safari in KAZA includes a visit to Mosi- Zambia oa-Tunya/Victoria Falls, either on the Zambian side or on the Zimbabwean side. The falls are a sight to behold Zimbabwe but there is a world of other possibilities to experience Namibia Botswana life in Livingstone and Victoria Falls from new angles. Land of adventures: Livingstone and Victoria Falls

ollowing the trajectory of the Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World F the Zambezi River, the earth Heritage Site and one of the Seven suddenly fractures in a geological Natural Wonders of the World. fault 1.7km (1 mile) wide, and A bridge, built in 1905 across the over it tumbles one of the greatest Victoria Falls’ second gorge, links Image: Jacques Marais volumes of falling water in the Zambia and Zimbabwe. This road, world. The spray billows up to the rail and foot bridge along with CUSTODIANS OF sky, while rainbows touch pockets the international airports of both of indigenous rainforest, giving rise Livingstone and Victoria Falls provide KAZA’S WILDLIFE to the Lozi name Mosi-oa-Tunya, excellent access to all the attractions Without the committed protection or ‘Smoke that Thunders’. This is and adventures in the area. of Africa’s wildlife by anti- poaching units, made up of men and women, there would be no safari tourism, and the natural ecology and local economy would collapse. Respective wildlife agencies are responsible for anti-poaching operations, and these units are found throughout KAZA. Transboundary law enforcement operations are being undertaken and are set to increase as part of KAZA’s ongoing efforts to harmonise and strengthen collaboration. State-supported anti-poaching efforts often collaborate with non-profit organisations, where dedicated men and women go on patrols with national park units, sometimes accompanied by the local police force or army. Together, they prove an effective deterrent. For example, in the Victoria Falls area, more than Image: Jacques Marais 850 poachers have been arrested and over 22 000 snares have been removed. In the Sebungwe region LOOKING FOR AN ADVENTURE of Lake Kariba, ivory poaching has all but ceased due to concerted The Mosi-oa-Tunya/Victoria Falls gorge swing, zip line, helicopter anti-poaching efforts, after the have long attracted travellers flip and microlight flight. Get wet loss of 11 000 elephants (75% of seeking an adrenaline rush, and wild with a swim in Devil’s the local population) since 2006. Tourism is essential to the wildlife perhaps the most daring being Pool on the very edge of the falls, economy in KAZA and directly the 111-metre bungee jump or white-water rafting, which will contributes to these praiseworthy off Victoria Falls Bridge. Other almost certainly deposit you into custodians of Africa’s wildlife. vertiginous thrills include the the frothing Zambezi River.

6 Image: Dietmar Denger

them, but at 1 pm every day near a VULTURE CULTURE waterhole in , Vultures are the cleaners of the bush, the trees are packed with white-headed, eating 70% of leftover carrion, ensuring hooded, lappet-faced and white-backed there’s no rotting meat for diseases vultures, as well as renowned rubbish to spread. But this has also been their dump scroungers – marabou storks. It’s downfall. Their numbers are dwindling feeding time, when the birds swoop to the due to loss of food supply, scavenging on ground to devour the scraps of leftover carcasses poisoned by ivory poachers, meat from restaurants. In a programme of electrocution on power lines, and their education and conservation, this Vulture body parts being used in traditional Culture feast helps to protect these birds medicines. There’s a lot stacked against Image: Jacques Marais that are so essential to a healthy ecology.

7 livingstone & victoria falls Something for the soul

or travellers wanting some possible with tailor-made interactive F personal growth while still conservation itineraries. Tour enjoying the thrills of Mosi-oa- operators can include meeting lion, Tunya/Victoria Falls, the region wild dog or elephant researchers, offers immersive experiences to seeing how lion-proof cattle bomas help uplift the local communities help to mitigate the human-wildlife and contribute to protecting wildlife. conflict in rural villages, and an Some of these activities include: introduction to tribal leaders and Programmes for volunteers anti-poaching patrol units. Plus, Image: Africa Albida Tourism are action-oriented to help make there’s some private guiding by a difference to communities and experts in various fields. FEAST OF FUN conservation in and around Victoria For insights into the Feasting on barbecued food under Falls. Tasks involve recycling, rural science behind wildlife rescue, the stars with dancing, singing and farming, education and community rehabilitation, research and drumming is a uniquely African development, at projects such as community outreach, a visit to the activity that most visitors will only wildlife forensics lab in KAZA encounter at one safari lodge or a local sewing group or a clinic. another. There are also renowned Activities are in partnership with is fascinating. They use scientific boma banquets in Livingstone and traditional leaders, schools and and veterinary techniques to tackle Victoria Falls, with face-painting, appropriate authorities. Families wildlife management problems, interactive drumming circles, and with children find this kind of such as taking DNA samples from colourful dances representing poached ivory to determine its many of the cultures of KAZA. voluntourism especially rewarding. Travelling with a purpose is made regional origin.

Image: Carrie Hampton

CHITENGE FRIDAYS On Fridays in Livingstone, everyone sports bright chitenge, in celebration of this colourful traditional fabric. Printed in batik-style in vivid hues, it’s worn as sarongs and head scarves or is made into other items of clothing. Visit a street market, side-street fabric shop, or curio stall to buy some chitenge to wear on Friday, wherever you are.

Image: Carrie Hampton

PAINT A MASTERPIECE Ignite your inner artist by painting After a personal introduction to the elephants onto canvas at an art elephants and a chat about elephant workshop beside the Zambezi River in conservation, it’s time to sit behind your both Livingstone and Victoria Falls. This easel and unleash your creative genius. has replaced elephant-back riding as Don’t worry if you haven’t picked up a the most fun you can have with orphan paintbrush since school and are terrified elephant herds that are habituated of looking like a fool – a local artist to people, without compromising the patiently guides you towards creating a animals’ dignity. masterpiece.

Image: Art of Africa

8 TASTES OF AFRICA One food journey is found along moringa ‘miracle’ tree, whose superfood a dusty road in Chinotimba – a qualities boost ‘tired blood’, and tea In a region where many varied community near Victoria Falls – where from the resurrection bush, which has adventures are possible, take the women have been upskilled in every anti-aging benefits. Baobab powder gives challenge of trying some new and element of providing an authentic a citrusy tang to smoothies and desserts, unusual flavours of Africa. Mopane restaurant meal. That means cooking, and is packed with antioxidants and a worms – dried caterpillars of the waitressing, bar duties, greeting healthy dose of vitamins and minerals. emperor moth – are a high-protein, guests, answering the phone and even When faced with a menu offering seasonal delicacy that are not to accounting. indumba hummus, mongongo nut everyone’s taste. But there are other Much of the local produce has balls, and mnyi berry juice, throw culinary experiences to delight the most medicinal properties used widely for caution to the wind and give the tastes discerning palate. self-medication, like the leaves from the of Africa a try.

Image: Jessie Sargeant - Our Life Adrift Photo & Video

Image: Jessie Sargeant - Our Life Adrift Photo & Video

Image: Jessie Sargeant - Our Life Adrift Photo & Video Image: Jessie Sargeant - Our Life Adrift Photo & Video

9

namibia • botswana

Angola In this area of KAZA, life revolves around the Chobe Zambia River. Tourism is as concentrated here as the wildlife, which often comes close to human habitation. Chat Zimbabwe with locals to find out what it’s like to live in proximity Namibia Botswana to large and often dangerous wild animals. Exploring Chobe: Kasane, , Chobe River & Island

he Chobe River is the life-giving sundowner cruises, and fishing and T force of this region and provides photography expeditions. a border between Botswana on Taking to the water is the most the southern banks and Namibia convenient way to hop between the on the northern. The river has two countries and participate in extensive grassy floodplains all the activities on offer. This does on either side, which disappear mean stamping your passport in Image: Carrie Hampton under the annual floodwaters, and out of Namibia at the Kasika making watercraft the best way or Impalila Island immigration KASANE of getting around for visitors, posts, and at Kasane for Botswana, Kasane in Botswana is one of the locals and even hospitality staff. sometimes more than once a day. busiest townships in this region, There are boats galore on the All are located on the banks of the providing a variety of restaurants, Chobe, taking travellers on game- Chobe River. accommodation and services to the spotting and birding tours, day trips, tourism industry, particularly with transport and logistics for cross- border road transfers to Victoria Falls and Livingstone, and air travel internationally and locally. With a main route from Kasane through Chobe National Park, it’s not uncommon to encounter large animals crossing the road, even in the centre of town.

CHOBE NATIONAL PARK Chobe National Park is home to the largest population of African elephant in the world, estimated at over 70 000. Image: Simone Micheletti/Serondela Lodge The park is divided into four tourism nodes: the Chobe riverfront with its in between these areas. The park offers animals, Wildlife Dispersal Areas have floodplain and teak forest; Savuti Marsh some of the finest game viewing in been identified as a priority in KAZA’s in the west, whose once dry channel Africa, with enormous herds of elephant Integrated Management Plan, and is now flowing regardless of drought and buffalo, large prides of lion, and elephant are known to migrate between or rainfall; the Linyanti in the puku antelope, not seen elsewhere in Chobe National Park and neighbouring northwest; and the hot, dry hinterland Botswana. To facilitate free movement of countries.

10 Image: John Fourie Image: Craig Pusey Photography Image: Simone Micheletti

component already boasts 63 eco- Eco-friendly Serondela Lodge, on SUSTAINABLE TOURISM certified accommodation facilities. the Namibian banks of the Chobe Effective sustainable tourism achieves Lodges committed to cultural and River, was built as a collaborative a balance between respecting local environmental guardianship are more venture with the Masubia tribe in societies and cultures, economic likely to enter into joint ventures for the Kabulabula Conservancy. development through viable enterprises the benefit of the historical custodians With many sustainable choices that benefit local communities, and of these lands. Ngoma Safari Lodge, in available, it is hoped that visitors will using resources with minimal negative a community concession adjacent to gain a greater understanding of the impact on the environment. Botswana’s Chobe Forest Reserve, is social, economic and environmental This is epitomised throughout privately run in partnership with five impact of their accommodation and KAZA, and Botswana’s KAZA Sibiya settlements. activities.

Image: Serondela Lodge

Lion Group, a coalition of parties involved MAN VS THE LION KING in wildlife conflict mitigation. This If a lion can hear and smell their prey but helps build a lion database and notifies can’t see them, they don’t hunt them. communities if are moving towards With this understanding comes a simple known conflict areas. solution to the human-lion conflict in Lions are threatened with extinction, the Chobe area – thick, opaque canvas and there are only an estimated 20 000 is strung on posts around cattle kraals, living in the wild. Several organisations inside which the animals remain safe are actively working with communities at night. Park rangers, safari guides and and governments to ensure that these tourists have been enlisted to report lion apex land predators remain a common sightings via WhatsApp to the Chobe sight for tourists on safari in KAZA. Image: Björn Lauen

11 kasane, chobe & impalila island

Image: Sarah Kerr

IMPALILA ISLAND: A COMMUNAL CONSERVANCY About 12km (7 miles) long and 4km (2 one is staying at either of its two safari miles) wide, Impalila Island in Namibia lodges. Excursions to Impalila can be is surrounded by the Chobe and booked through hotels and lodges. Zambezi Rivers, which are connected Take a boat to Impalila Island, by the Kasai Channel. Impalila then walk to a Subiya village for a Island is one of three communal cultural exchange. Learn about the conservancies in this area (the others tribe’s traditional song and dance, being Kabulabula and Kasika) and which have great meaning and where in the waters off its eastern significance for villagers. Don’t just tip four countries meet – Botswana, sit and watch the performers, though Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The – the dancers love it when tourists island is accessible only by boat, unless join in.

Image: Carrie Hampton

PICTURE PERFECT

Photography and birding are two of the world’s most popular hobbies, and on the Chobe River, both pastimes can be well satisfied in spectacular surroundings. To help achieve Image: Carrie Hampton noteworthy photographs, specialist photographic boats are Two oxen pull a clapped-out body of Zambia and Zimbabwe meet. Or a car complete with front and back explore the island on an electric equipped with revolving chairs, seats, for a ride around Impalila bike and engage with villagers. Gain tripod mountings and rentable Island with guide Charles Matengu. insight into life between two rivers, DSLR cameras with zoom lenses. Listen to his hair-raising stories of where collecting river water comes Guests receive a flash drive and being a SWAPO militiaman during with its own challenges – crocodiles expert tuition including tips like: the border wars for Namibia’s and hippos! independence in the 1960s. The tour is unstructured to enjoy focus on the animals’ eyes, try When you reach the giant baobab, authentic, spontaneous experiences, and keep the background simple, with a girth of 48m, the adventurous like tasting the local brew, dancing and don’t just concentrate on can climb its metal rungs to survey to a makeshift beatbox or playing zooming in, try some wide-angle the point where Botswana, Namibia, soccer with children. shots, too.

12 livingstone & victoria falls

DOES THE RIVER ALWAYS FLOW THAT WAY?

The above would usually be considered a stupid question, but not around here. The Chobe River flows east, meeting the Zambezi at the confluence of four countries at . But when the Zambezi floodwaters arrive from late February to May, the sheer volume of water backs up for a considerable distance, creating the impression of a change in direction. And did you know that the Chobe River changes its name five times? It’s the Cuando in Angola, the Kwando when it reaches Namibia, the Linyanti when it enters Botswana and does a triangular detour along a fault line, the Itenge for about 70km (43 miles), and then becomes known the Chobe as it runs alongside Chobe National Park, before converging with the Zambezi River.

Image: Jacques Marais

13 botswana

Angola

Zambia

Zimbabwe

Namibia Botswana Image: Björn Lauen Image: Björn Lauen

MAUN Maun lies on the southern fringes of the Okavango Delta and, Heart of Botswana despite recent modernisations, carries the feeling of a dusty frontier town, where safari-style khaki clothing is the norm. For Okavango Delta, Maun, Moremi many tourists, Maun is the point of entry into the Delta, and often into Botswana. Small Cessna & Makgadikgadi-Nxai Pans aircraft buzz in and out of the busy airport, flying guests and he Okavango Delta is the largest are deeply in tune with the natural supplies to the Okavango Delta’s inland delta on Earth, one of the world surrounding them. luxury safari lodges, many of T which are inaccessible by any Seven Natural Wonders of Africa and The delta is habitat to more other means. the 1 000th UNESCO World Heritage than 400 species of birds, nearly Site. One of the most exquisitely 200 species of mammals and over MOREMI GAME scenic and prolific game-viewing 150 species of reptiles. One way to RESERVE and birding experiences in the world, get an idea of just how rich and it is also home to ethnic groups who diverse this ecosystem is by taking Declared a game reserve by the BaTawana people in 1963 and named in honour of their chief, Moremi covers about 35% of the Okavango Delta’s alluvial fan. Its iconic locations like Chief’s Island, the Khwai River floodplain, Xini Lagoon and Xakanaxa Lagoon provide a year-round lush habitat for the abundant wildlife. MAKGADIKGADI & NXAI PANS The name ‘Makgadikgadi’ implies a ‘thirsty land’ of extreme dryness. But, while it may appear barren, an excursion with Bushmen, a walk with habituated meerkats, or a game drive encountering local specialities like black-maned lion, brown hyena and aardvark, will reveal an abundance of life. The landscape transforms during the November rains, sporting emerald-green grasslands and large, shallow lakes visited by a flamboyance of flamingos and other water birds. The rain also triggers a dramatic movement of wildebeest and on one of the longest animal migrations in Africa. Activated by a conserved memory of ancient routes and a genetic predisposition to migrate, they travel some 250 km (155 miles) from Chobe to the Nxai Pans, then back again about ten weeks later. Image: ArnoPicture Pouwels credit here

14 Image: Carrie Hampton Image: Björn Lauen Image: Natural Selection

The great, pristine wildernesses of the Okavango Delta and Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans offer the exclusivity of meeting few other visitors. The focus is on wildlife and culture, with no better way to learn both bush lore and folklore than from local guides. a flight above its sparkling waters. walk offers the chance to track, find Another opportunity to observe the and witness the Big Five in their unique wildlife, such as the elusive natural habitat. Other activities aquatic antelope, is from include game drives, horseback a traditional dugout canoe (mokoro), safaris, boating, fishing, village visits poled by an experienced guide. To and scenic helicopter flights. really connect with nature and be humbled by this haven, a guided

Image: ArnoPicture Pouwels credit here

THE ART OF POLING made by scooping out the trunk accelerator, steering, brakes and A MOKORO of a long, straight tree such as an handiest weapon in times of danger, ebony, jackalberry or sausage tree, which more often than not comes For boys growing up in Okavango although nowadays some are made in the form of hippos. Accomplished villages like Jao, Sepupa and Xaxaba, out of fibreglass, negating the need polers are in demand for their ability learning how to pole a mokoro is a to chop down old trees. The art of to anticipate hippos and steer out key life skill. The traditional mokoro handling a mokoro starts with a of danger. The best have an innate is a dugout canoe that provides good, sturdy pole, cut to the right ability to know where they are the only dependable transport height, strength and swing style going in a watery landscape that’s through the delta’s waterways. It’s of the poler. The pole serves as the constantly changing. 15 okavango delta, maun, moremi & makgadikgadi-nxai pans

WEAVE YOURSELF A BOTSWANA BASKET A visit to the Okavango Delta or Maun is incomplete without visiting a basket-weaving venue. Women converge daily to weave palm fronds into beautiful baskets, a skill often taught to them from a very young age by their mothers. Basket weaving is a means of livelihood for these women, supporting them and their families. Visitors have the option to engage and learn the art of traditional basket weaving and buy one of the finished products perfected by an expert.

Image: Natural Selection

RIDING IN BIG GAME COUNTRY

Previous horse-riding experience elephant. Both the horse and rider’s is a prerequisite for galloping senses are heightened to the sounds, through the Okavango on horses smells and sights of the bush on fit enough to keep pace with zebra exciting guided multi-day rides run or wildebeest, always alert to by several operators. granite rocks the possibility of meeting lion or rising unexpectedly Image: Carrie Hampton

CELEBRATING CULTURE In Botswana, there are numerous festivals celebrating the country’s different cultures and ethnic groups. The Maun International Arts Festival showcases local and international talent in literature, poetry, theatre and music. The cultural festivals of the Wayeyi in Gumare, the annual Tjingirini Festival at Toromoja village in the greater Makgadikgadi area, and the Cisiyankulu Cultural Festival (Basubiya) in Kavimba, all celebrate the historical cultural practices of their communities in song, dance, storytelling and food.

Image: Natural Selection

Image: Arno Pouwels FEED THE SOUL AT KUBU ISLAND Kubu Island, located in the middle of is overseen by the Gaing O Community the Makgadikgadi Pans and known Trust, who manage it and derive income locally as Lekhubu, ‘the rock outcrop’, from designated camping sites set far is a collection of granite rocks rising apart among the magnificent baobabs. unexpectedly out of a landscape of dusty, Long-drop toilets are the only facility, and flat salt pans. It’s a place of primeval overland travellers need to be completely natural beauty, where at night the sky self-sufficient in food, water and fuel. is so abundant with stars that they Guided walks are offered, giving insight touch the earth’s horizon. An indigenous into prehistoric habitation, the unique sacred site and national monument, it rock formations and local flora and fauna.

16 Image: Björn Lauen

HIGH JINKS WITH ZU/’HOANSI BUSHMEN where a player bashes a large stone onto wood and a second player has For insight into survival in this trap, unearth and kiss a scorpion, to slip their hand quickly under the unforgiving scrubland, the make fire and brew tea from seed stone and out again. Humour and Zu/’Hoansi Bushmen in the pods, and cure most ills with community spirit are evident, a Makgadikgadi area share their indigenous plants. High jinks involve juxtaposition to the complexities of wisdom and ancient traditions with catching and throwing ‘lightning’ today’s modern lifestyles. Most lodges tourists in an enriching, interactive to each other, and a daring game to in the Makgadikgadi area offer this experience. Learn how to set a bird the rhythm of clapping and singing, experience to guests.

Image: Björn Lauen

Image: Björn Lauen Image:Image: NaturalPicture creditSelection here

17 botswana • namibia

Angola

Zambia

Zimbabwe KAZA’s wild west

Namibia Botswana

The feeds Popa Falls, before flowing into the Okavango Panhandle. Away from the fertile riverbanks in less-watered lands is the remote wilderness of in Namibia, and Botswana’s Tsodilo Hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its Bushmen paintings.

t the western edge of the a waterfall, with papyrus-lined A Zambezi Region, the Okavango channels perfect for sunset cruises. River separates Namibia and Drinks and snacks are often set up Angola, before flowing into what’s on islands, from where it’s possible known as the Okavango Panhandle to rock-hop between the rivulets. in Botswana. As relaxed as the Birding is excellent in this region, river is in the panhandle, so is the and it’s possible to tick off 30–40 accommodation, with options for different birds in one morning. Don’t independent travellers, fishermen venture too close to the water’s edge and birders, in mainly owner-run – not even for a Narina trogon – as lodges, campsites, houseboats and there are crocs and hippos lurking. riverside resorts. Boating is the most relaxing way to The Popa Falls is a series of birdwatch; simply let some of the Image: Namibia Wildlife Resorts bubbling cascades rather than 450 bird species found here fly by.

TSODILO HILLS This iconic landmark was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 due to its unique religious and spiritual significance to the local community. Tsodilo Hills is made up of three rocks (dubbed ‘father, mother and child’), whose sedimentary sandstone holds archaeological records of human activity and environmental change over the past 100 000 years. Despite the dry, hostile Image: Lisa Blanken Image: Björn Lauen environment far from any ocean, some of the 4 500 rock paintings depict penguins and whales. This has been attributed to the vast areas traversed by the inhabitants of this region. Chief Xontae explains that the local communities respect Tsodilo as the home of their ancestral spirits and a place of worship. A guided tour describes the art and its meaning, but to imbibe the site’s spirituality, take a solitary meander along the marked trails. If staying at the public campsite nearby, visitors can pre-book a magical night of song and dance performed by the local tribes.

Image: Carrie Hampton

18 botswana • namibia

Popa Falls, Okavango Panhandle, Tsodilo Hills & Khaudum National Park

LIVING WITH ELEPHANTS elephant conflict to coexistence. Farmers dung deterrent that’s set alight to are encouraged to practise ‘elephant create an acrid smoke that crop-raiding In the eastern Okavango Panhandle, aware’ farming inside elephants hate). about 18 000 elephants compete with zfenced cluster fields, and to apply In an effort to help support local around 16 000 people for food, water and sustainable agriculture methods to elephant tourism, a viewing platform land. There are 13 demarcated elephant increase food security. is being built on one of the main corridors close to human habitation Villagers also benefit from the elephant migration pathways. within this section of the Kwando River ‘elephant economy’, with income- Guests will be able to spend a night Wildlife Dispersal Area, where living with generating initiatives such as elephant- on a comfortable bed high above the elephants is part of life. branded community-based tourism, elephants, where they can watch A holistic approach is used to help handcrafts and food products like chilli and listen to the herds as they move communities move from human- sauces (in reference to the chilli-infused below. Image: Björn Lauen

KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK With the Bushmen paintings of Tsodilo Hills east of Khaudum, it’s not surprising that this far western part of Namibia was the domain of hunter-gatherers, whose communities now blend ancient and modern lifestyles in conservancies and villages around the park. Khaudum is an untamed, forested wilderness, with large herds of elephant and buffalo traversing an unfenced border between Namibia and Botswana. All routes to Khaudum’s two rudimentary campsites are challenging, with off-roading in deep sand and a minimum convoy of two vehicles. The rewards are 320 bird species and big game, as well as predators like , lion, leopard and . Khaudum has few visitors – just how intrepid 4x4 enthusiasts like it. If exiting to the south via Tsumkwe, stop at the Dorsland Grootboom, an ancient baobab, and the Living Museum of the Ju/’Hoansi-San.

Image: Arno Pouwels

19 namibia • angola

Angola Zambia Corridor of Zimbabwe connections Namibia Botswana

ANGOLA’S Offering affordable tourism, Namibia’s Zambezi Region UNTAPPED plays a pivotal role in the unfenced Kwando River WILDERNESS Angola’s KAZA component is Wildlife Dispersal Area between Angola, Botswana, surrounded by the Cubango, Cuito and Cuando Rivers, which Namibia and Zambia. Angola’s Luengue-Luiana not only beautify the region, but ensure the survival of its wildlife, National Park runs along the region’s northern border making nature tourism the anchor activity. Large populations of and is a vast wilderness with untapped tourism potential. elephant, buffalo, antelope and a number of different predators are found in the 45 000 sq km he Zambezi Region in the heart management strategies help to (27 960 miles) of Luengue-Luiana T of KAZA is a long strip of land make sense of these complexities, National Park – one of Africa’s last with multiple land uses, containing ensuring that poaching, illegal uncharted frontiers. the national parks of Bwabwata, logging and human-wildlife conflict Adventurous 4x4 convoys brave bumpy sand tracks to visit Nkasa and Mudumu. It’s are kept to a minimum, and that all this unexplored wilderness, watered by the Kavango River in the communities benefit from income- but high-end tour operators fly west and the Zambezi in the east, producing activities, including guests in to fully catered camps in with the Kwando-Linyanti-Chobe tourism and hunting. remote locations. (all one river, its name depending Enjoy riverside campsites and Tourism and conservation go hand in hand, and KAZA on location) forming the southern lodges, fantastic birding (almost has allocated funds for wildlife demarcation. It has 450 animal 70% of Namibia’s bird species are protection and reducing human- species in 16 conservancies, is found here), fishing, sunset boat wildlife conflict. Success home to nine different tribes, is trips and game drives. Katima stories include the training of traversed by migrating animals and Mulilo is the largest town in the field rangers by Peace Parks Foundation in the use of is bisected by 200km (125 miles) region, acting as a gateway for CyberTrackers to collect data of busy tar road. Transboundary travel to all KAZA partner countries. during anti-poaching patrols. This region was the scene of Angola’s civil war, and memorials and military battlefields can be visited on guided tours. Tourism is in its infancy here, and official border posts for entry from other parts of KAZA are under construction. Visa documentation and vehicle entry paperwork are best advised by experienced operators.

Image: Simone Micheletti/Nkasa Lupala Lodge Image: African Bush Camps

BWABWATA has strategies for carnivore protection, and a collared predator signifies that NATIONAL PARK the animal is part of a programme monitoring its movement between Namibia’s , Angola, Botswana, Namibia and Zambia. including the Mahango Core Area, is This provides useful data and 190km (118 miles) of protected land, pinpoints human-wildlife conflict with large populations of elephant, hotspots, where avoidance tactics can buffalo, roan and , red be used. It’s not just predators that pose and predators such as wild dog, problems – elephants raid crops and lion, leopard, hyena and cheetah. The threaten the lives of villagers when they KAZA Carnivore Conservation Coalition Image: Jess Isden WildCRU move through on migration routes.

20 Bwabwata, Mudumu, Nkasa Rupara, Mahango & Luengue-Luiana Parks Image: Chantelle Melzer/Nkasa Lupala Lodge

Image: Lisa Blanken Image: Björn Lauen

MUDUMU & NKASA RUPARA NATIONAL PARKS A Rift Valley fault line causes the Kwando- travellers like it, with the option of staying Linyanti River to change course at a at campsites and lodges like Jackalberry sharp angle, almost doubling back on Camp and Nkasa Lupala, which operate in itself. On this piece of land, cradled by a joint-venture programme with the local the V-shape of the river, are the Wuparo Wuparo community. Such commitment Conservancy and two Namibian national to sustainable tourism has resulted in parks: Mudumu and Nkasa Rupara, increased local employment, decreased containing wetlands reminiscent of the poaching, and recovery of the depleted Okavango Delta. These are some of the lion population after 120 lion-proof kraals Image: Jacques Marais least visited of KAZA’s parks, just how eco- were built.

21 bwabwata, mudumu, nkasa rupara, mahango & luengue luiana parks

GO GREEN THE UPSIDE-DOWN TREE Travellers are more aware than ever about choosing Baobabs proliferate in the the citrusy powder covering the environmentally friendly places to Zambezi Region, and these seeds is considered a superfood. stay, especially in natural settings. Namibia’s Eco Awards identify upside-down trees – which look Katima Mulilo has one of the establishments that make the as if their roots are in the air – are most photographed baobab effort to use resources carefully, often thought to contain spirits. trees in KAZA, where a door has include sustainable practices and Old age for a baobab is 800 years, been fitted into its enormous implement social responsibility with one in Namibia dated to over hollowed-out trunk, behind which and environmental care. Look for the desert flower insignia denoting a thousand years old. They only there is a public flushing toilet! participation. start fruiting at 200 years old, and

Image: Björn Lauen

TURNING TRASH INTO TREASURE Turning waste into beautiful art is not new, but is only one aspect of a project in the Mayuni Conservancy. Chief Mayuni is right behind this initiative, having noticed that plastic was growing like flowers along the roadsides, and released Mafwe tribal land for the Sijwa Project. It includes a permaculture vegetable garden, with soil enriched by food waste and super-strength worm juice, boosted by elephant dung and kept free of bugs by free-range chickens. There’s an indigenous nursery for visitors to buy and plant trees to offset their carbon Image: Natural Selection footprint, with a local ‘tree guardian’ to secure the trees’ survival against nibbling goats. To stop elephants from raiding the gardens, beehives are strung around the farm on a perimeter wire – a bee up the trunk is anathema to an elephant, so they soon buzz off! There is also a cultural village and a junior ranger training venue for jobs in tourism.

Image: Xaro Lodge Image: A. Froneman www.wildlifephotography.co.za

22 THE VALUE OF WILDLIFE UNLOCKED In addition to joint-venture tourism programmes with the local communities, the Zambezi Region has seen the first implementation of an innovative conservation performance concept using wildlife credits, incentivising the community to protect wild animals. The initial phase involves the Wuparo and Sobbe Conservancies, where donor money is contributed to local communities for actively setting aside wildlife corridors. This is proven through satellite imagery and camera traps. For protecting and conserving the wildlife, participating lodges pay a fixed amount for each sighting of iconic species during game drives in these areas. The programme leverages a secured, contractual payment at a national level in Namibia to match each sighting. As the number of verified sightings increase, so do payments to the communities, which can be used to protect crops and livestock from wildlife predation and as compensation for losses.

Image: Chantelle Melzer/Nkasa Lupala Lodge

Image: Chantelle Melzer/Nkasa Lupala Lodge

Image: Jacques Marais

TWITCHERS’ TICK LIST

This region has some of the best birding in KAZA. Here’s a list of top 10 specials to spot:

●● Pel’s fishing owl ●● kingfisher ●● African skimmer ●● Giant kingfisher ●● Carmine bee-eater ●● Narina trogon ●● European bee-eater ●● African wood owl ●● Slaty egret ●● White-backed night heron Image: A. Froneman www.wildlifephotography.co.za 23 zambia • namibia

Angola

Zambia Katima Mulilo is not so much a destination as a town for onward travel into Namibia’s Zambezi Region, or across the Wenela- border bridge over the Zimbabwe Zambezi River into Zambia. Some 100km (62 miles) Namibia Botswana downriver from Sesheke lies Simalaha Community Conservancy, an unheralded Zambian wildlife sanctuary and success story in the making.

Image:Chantelle Melzer/Serondela Lodge

New pastures Katima Mulilo & Simalaha

Image: Simalaha Horse Safaris

RIDE INTO THE mayhem of heavily laden Two chiefdoms share this land; WILDERNESS A trucks from Zambia’s copper both have enthusiastically invested belt queue at the border bridge from in the Simalaha Conservancy, The first activity to be offered in Sesheke in Zambia to Katima Mulilo and are working with Peace Parks Simalaha is horse-riding. Experience the freedom of galloping among in Namibia. Cars skip to the front Foundation to restore the ecosystem wild animals through an untamed of the queue and are processed through conservation, protection wilderness of and quickly through passport control and rewilding – reviving animal golden savanna. A tented camp into Katima town, to stock up on populations and severely depleted set in a pristine location acts as a groceries and pay a visit to the fish stocks. The sanctuary now comfortable base after hours in the saddle over four or five days. Adding craft centre to browse the vast boasts more than 3 000 animals, to the sense of exploration, a pop- array of handcrafted baskets. with a vision of reaching its carrying up fly camp is set up for a night in To the east of Sesheke, hidden capacity of 17 000 head of game. the bush. Guests are introduced to away on the Zambezi floodplain, lies Nature-based economies like the rich Lozi culture of this area, Zambia’s least-explored reserve, the tourism are key to improving the with personal introductions to a local induna (headman), who might Simalaha Community Conservancy. circumstances of more than 14 000 arrange a traditional dance or a tour One of its first visitors said, “Simalaha people living in and around the of a village. The group returns to has the most extraordinary silence, conservancy. A few lucky tourists will a lodge near Livingstone for some different to other areas – no words soon be able to immerse themselves post-ride pampering and a visit to can explain it.” in this breathtaking wilderness, with the Victoria Falls. Its location is a critical link in an horse-riding safaris and an off-the- ancient animal migration route from grid safari lodge being planned. Kafue National Park in the north, Visitors can also look forward to through Zambia and Namibia, to houseboats and tiger fishing on the Chobe National Park in Botswana – Zambezi River, stopping at Simalaha this is one of KAZA’s six key Wildlife to engage in cultural participation, Dispersal Areas. game drives and exceptional birding. Image: Simalaha Horse Safaris

24 zambia • namibia

Image: Gordon Homer

Image: Gordon Homer

COME DANCING Each African culture in KAZA has its own particular traditions in song, dance and dress, and the Lozi of southern Barotseland sport red, black and white garments at their ceremonial gatherings. Both men and women swish flowing skirts while clapping and stamping out the rhythm of the music. Enjoy these vibrant performances while an interpreter explains the words, which could be an impromptu praise song in your honour. Tourists can join in the dancing, to the amusement of performers. Image: Gordon Homer

FLOAT ON A HOUSEBOAT Staying on a houseboat brings you cruising along the Zambezi, pulling who will take keen fishermen to the closer to nature on the rivers and up to a sandbank each night, all the best spots to catch a tiger. Super- lakes of Botswana, Namibia, Zambia way from Katima Mulilo to Kasane. stylish houseboats are found on Lake and Zimbabwe. Camper-boats are Lake Kariba is renowned for charter Kariba and the Chobe River, offering available, with a rooftop tent rather houseboats of every size and level a luxurious, all-inclusive experience, like a 4x4, for laid-back, multi-day of grandeur, equipped with crews including multiple activities.

Image: Francois Synders

25 zimbabwe • botswana

Angola

Zambia This exciting region has two wildlife corridors, masses of elephants, packs of roaming wild dog and a lake the size of a small country. Just as memorable as Zimbabwe the natural and wildlife attractions are the local people Namibia Botswana and their welcoming hospitality. Image: Carrie Hampton Big smiles and elephants Hwange, Kuzuma, Lake Kariba & Chizarira

LAKE KARIBA wange National Park and to disappear into the grasslands and adjacent private concessions woodlands. It’s then that the birdlife KAZA encompasses the entire H Zimbabwean half of Lake Kariba give refuge to the second largest comes into its own, with 432 species – some 220km (137 miles) long – population of African elephant in and some migrants in breeding with drowned hardwood forests KAZA. With the arrival of thirsty plumage. Some of Africa’s largest standing sentinel 60 years after the elephants from Botswana, coming flying birds, like kori bustards, ground Zambezi River was dammed. This to drink at the solar-powered hornbills and secretarybirds, seem to inland sea has become an enticing destination for houseboat charters waterholes during the dry season, the gather conveniently for great photo and avid fishermen hoping to catch park’s elephant numbers swell to far opportunities. a tiger. The lakeshore at Binga offers greater than the usual 20 000–25 000. temptations similar to a seaside Breeding herds in their hundreds and beach, but crocodiles and hippos COUNTING GAME big lonesome bulls with magnificent are a bathing hazard. It also has a Batonga cultural museum and a tusks, along with all manner of Around 300 volunteers gather in co-operative basket, beadwork and antelope and birds, congregating at on the full carved wood handicraft industry. watering holes is a sight to behold. moon at the end of September or On the southern shores Hwange is also renowned for lion, beginning of October for a 24-hour of Lake Kariba is beautiful leopard, cheetah and a better-than- annual game census. Teams of , whose landscape was denuded of big average chance of spotting African about four are each allocated a pan game by poaching and is now in wild dog. or waterhole to record any wildlife a public-private partnership for Hwange is so huge – roughly visitors. Anyone can apply, but a conservation management. There’s 14 650 sq km (5 656 sq miles) – that in knowledge of animals and birds is a high hope that Matusadona could the wet season the animals just seem prerequisite. once again become Zimbabwe’s premier elephant and black rhino sanctuary, mirroring the successes concessions, the task is complex. Despite of neighbouring anti-poaching units. WILDLIFE ON THE MOVE the adversities, thousands of animals, There are numerous initiatives in Two of KAZA’s six identified Wildlife including elephant, buffalo, zebra, this area to support local schools, Dispersal Areas originate in Hwange wildebeest, wild dog and lion, continue to clinics, small enterprises and National Park: Hwange-Kuzuma-Chobe follow their natural instincts to migrate to human-wildlife conflict resolution, and Hwange-Makgadikgadi-Nxai Pan. rich grasslands during the wet season and including erecting lion-proof kraals Funds from KAZA have been allocated to water sources during the dry season. and recruiting ‘lion guardians’ to enable animal movement and Zimbabwe’s Kuzuma Pan National from the community to monitor mitigate human-wildlife conflict on Park and Botswana’s Kuzuma Forest predators’ movements and warn these migratory pathways. But, as these Reserve are contiguous landscapes of herders of their proximity. can include border fences, major roads, woodlands and grass plains, with an adjacent agricultural areas and hunting unfenced but patrolled border between

26 Image: Camp Kazuma

CONSERVING AFRICA’S PAINTED DOGS African wild dogs, often called wild wherever possible. Guides ‘painted dogs’ for their beautiful lead visitors to the holding pens marked coats, are the most while offering information about threatened carnivore in sub-Saharan the animals’ social patterns and Africa. KAZA’s wild dog conservation behaviour. For example, the minimum strategy and action plan is critical to number for a viable hunting and the protection of the transboundary breeding pack is about six, with an Image: Craig Pusey Photography populations, who roam great alpha breeding pair producing all distances. There are about 7 000 wild the pups and the female acting as dogs left in the wild, with roughly 10% head dog. Storybook panels in the CHIZARIRA of them living in and around Hwange display room tell true accounts of On a high plateau about 90km (56 miles) National Park. some of Hwange’s wild dogs and east of Binga lies the incredibly scenic There’s a conservation visitor their biggest threats to survival Chizarira National Park. Almost forsaken centre just outside Hwange National – habitat loss, snares, diseases, by man and beast due to rampant Park where rescued wild dogs are such as rabies, and being killed poaching, it’s being rehabilitated with the rehabilitated and released into the on the roads or by farmers. help of conservation organisations, which are restoring infrastructure and working with the community to find ways for this park to benefit them. Self-drive tourism will pave the way for safari companies to set up operations, but for now visitor facilities are undeveloped.

them. As elephants move through during the dry season on ancient migratory routes, they gather in great numbers at waterholes. Watch live animal activity at a waterhole in the Kuzuma Forest Reserve on EarthCam. Attracting more than a hundred elephants at a time, the waterhole has to be replenished with 35 000 litres of drinking water per day from a borehole.

Image: capucinephoto Image: Picture credit here

27 Image: Carrie Hampton

DISCOVER A CREATIVE COMMUNITY: DETE The well-kept village of Dete, just Vukani, ‘to rise up’. Here, elderly and outside Hwange National Park, has disabled women and men create 4 300 residents, but only about 120 have beautiful beaded jewellery out of employment. In the spirit of community donated waste paper and glossy upliftment, many safari companies magazines, which visitors can buy as operating in the Hwange area support gifts or souvenirs. small local enterprises that guests can Visiting a Zimbabwean village visit as part of their travel experience. school that has to contend with having A collection of women in this no current textbooks, no water for village have called their sewing group several kilometres, and depleting food Thandanani, which means ‘love each rations, is a humbling experience. other’, and use their sewing skills to Several schools near Hwange welcome make school uniforms and attractive visitors, and as one meets the teachers items for sale in safari lodge shops. and children it becomes clear that they As part of a social initiative, they also weather challenges with great dignity sew washable, reusable sanitary pads, and a ready smile. There are a number without which many girls miss a week of schemes that facilitate donations to of school every month. schools, with a year’s education for Nearby is another community one child costing a sponsorship of as Image: Carrie Hampton upliftment project under the name little as US$30.

28 hwange, kuzuma, lake kariba & chizarira

Image: Flame of Africa

Image: Jacques Marais

Image: John Fourie Image: Jacques Marais

CYCLING FOR A CAUSE One of KAZA’s lesser-known annual events is Pumping Legs for Water. This two-day charity mountain bike ride takes place inside Hwange National Park to raise money to maintain the park’s waterhole pumps. Meeting big game along the 110km (68-mile) route is a possibility, so participants ride as a group.

Image: Colin Gillies

29 zambia

Angola

Zambia Zambia revealed: Zimbabwe

Namibia Botswana

WHERE VAST HERDS OF WILDEBEEST ROAM Without any fanfare, Liuwa Plain National Park hosts the second largest wildebeest migration on the continent, between Zambia and Angola, with about 40 000 wildebeest shadowed by an increasing predator population. At the same time as the wildebeest arrive in mid-November, the pans fill up with water, attracting thousands of water birds – a birder’s paradise. Liuwa Plain National Park lies just outside the invisible KAZA While Kafue in Zambia’s northernmost section of boundaries, but its success under a conservation management KAZA is renowned as a vast and varied ecosystem partnership since 2003 has turned it into a prime example of how more with Super Five predators, little is known about than 12 500 people can live inside a park and co-exist with wildlife. Sioma Ngwezi National Park and the impressive Ngonye Falls. All is revealed here.

Image: Natural Selection t 66 000 sq km (25 482 sq miles), Kafue is known for its Super Athe Greater Kafue Ecosystem Five large carnivores – lion, leopard, is one of the largest contiguous wild dog, cheetah and hyena. In protected conservation landscapes a new approach to conservation, in Africa, comprising Kafue National communities are empowered to be Park and nine game management wildlife guardians and beneficiaries areas. It’s a wilderness of exceptional in business partnerships linked beauty with huge tracts of virgin to healthy carnivore populations. bush. Safari camps and lodges The natural movement of Kafue’s occupy the most scenic locations for animals requires connectivity to top game-viewing and birdwatching, KAZA’s other Wildlife Dispersal offering walks, drives, boat trips, Areas: south through Simalaha fishing and hot-air ballooning over Community Conservancy, into Kafue and its multitude of antelopes Namibia’s Zambezi Region and to grazing the Busanga floodplains. Chobe in Botswana.

SIOMA NGWEZI Sioma Ngwezi National Park and the (13,6 miles) of roller-coaster sand track Zambezi West Game Management Area into the park, reaping rewards of silence is a vast ecosystem of approximately and solitude. As accessibility improves 11 500 sq km (4 440 sq miles), rubbing and game numbers increase, thanks to shoulders in the west with Angola’s rewilding and anti-poaching initiatives, so Luengue-Luiana National Park. Since does Sioma Ngwezi’s tourism potential. To it is off the tourism industry’s radar as smooth the way, there’s 130 km (81 miles) there is no visitor infrastructure, only of tarred road between Sesheke – the hardened 4x4 self-drivers brave the 22 km border town into Namibia – and Sioma. Image: Simon Mayes

30 zambia

Kafue, Sioma Ngwezi & Ngonye Falls

MAKING A BIG SPLASH National Parks. During April and May, the falls are at full force and Tackle 30km (18.6 miles) of rough, have to be viewed from a distance, sandy road north of Sioma Ngwezi but at low water, from June to National Park to Ngonye Falls December, people rock-hop to sit Community Partnership Park Visitor under the gentle cascades. Centre, where a guide leads the way The Ngonye Falls’ cultural and to viewpoints on foot. Only 12m aesthetic value has the power to (39 feet) high, the volume of water boost ecotourism to the benefit of from the Zambezi River pounding local communities. Facilities include over its crescent of rocks is second a community-run campsite and a only to that of the Mosi-oa-Tunya/ riverside beach campsite, where Victoria Falls. It’s mostly visited guests arrive by boat on fishing by independent travellers driving expeditions from a local lodge. to or from Kafue and Liuwa Plain

Image: Jacques Marais

Image: Shutterstock/cloete55

31 activities and events

Annual events Visit www.kavangozambezi.org/en/ for more information.

april Bwinkuhane Bwetu – Masubia Cultural september Festival, , Namibia Mascom Derby, Maun, Botswana Thousands gather at the Masubia chief’s Zambezi International Regatta, More than 70 thoroughbreds and local traditional seat to celebrate traditional Livingstone, Zambia Tswana breed horses compete over Easter cuisine, music and ancestral dance. This is a regatta of rowboats, rafts at the Shashe Race Track. and dugout canoes upstream of the www.facebook.com/ Victoria Falls Marathon, Victoria Falls, Victoria Falls. events/489129145329768 Zimbabwe lsf.co.zm/zambezi-international- Run over the Victoria Falls Bridge and regatta Livingstone International Cultural Arts through Zambezi National Park on this Festival, Livingstone, Zambia scenic marathon. Hwange Game Census, Hwange National Livingstone gets lively with street www.vicfallsmarathon.com Park, Zimbabwe carnivals and performances by cultural On the last full moon in September or groups. Okavango Bream Classic, Okavango Delta, October, volunteers participate in a 24- www.livingstoneculturalfestival.com Botswana hour game count throughout Hwange The team’s five heaviest bream win National Park. may in this Okavango Panhandle fishing [email protected] competition. Livingstone MTB Epic, Livingstone, Zambia www.facebook.com/ Lusata Cultural Festival, , This family-oriented mountain bike race OkavangoBreamClassic Namibia showcases Livingstone’s scenery. This cultural festival celebrates lsf.co.zm/mtb-epic august traditional values of the Mafwe people in the chief’s tribal village of Chinchimane. june The Okavango Delta Music Festival, Okavango Delta, Botswana Cisiyankulu Cultural Festival (Basubiya), Livingstone Football Knockout, Livingstone, This three-day music festival in the Kavimba, Botswana Zambia Okavango Delta helps the Tsutsubega This cultural event commemorates the Teams compete for the trophy in a rural community. history of the Bekuhane/Basubiya people short-match round robin, and there’s a www.okmusicfestival.com in song, dance and storytelling. knockout competition for old-timers. www.botswanatourism.co.bw lsf.co.zm/football The Nkashi Classic, Maun, Botswana This is a celebration of Botswana’s october july culture, with mokoro races to crown the Delta's fastest poler. Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament, KAZA Golf Classic, Botswana, Zambia and nkashi.co.bw Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe Zimbabwe Teams compete on Lake Kariba to see who Competitors play rounds of golf in several Tsodilo Hills Heritage Challenge, Tsodilo can catch the heaviest haul of tiger fish. KAZA TFCA partner countries. www. Hills, Botswana kitft.co.zw kavangozambezi.org/en/events-public This desert walk raises funds for cultural development and tourism at Tsodilo Makgadikgadi Epic Skydiving, november Hills World Heritage Site. Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana www.facebook.com/Tsodilo-Hills- Maun International Arts Festival, Maun, Skydivers take to the skies Heritage-Challenge-235486037087154 Botswana over Makgadikgadi’s salt pans. This event nurtures local and makgadikgadiepic.com or Zambezi Classic, Katima Mulilo, Namibia international artists in theatre, dance, www.skydivebotswana.com Hosted by the Nwanyi Angling Club music, poetry, literature and visual arts. on the Zambezi, anglers compete for www.poetavango.org.bw Pumping Legs for Water, Hwange National the longest and heaviest fish of a given Park, Zimbabwe species. december This two-day charity mountain bike www.facebook.com/nwanyianglingclub ride in Hwange NP raises money to keep Victoria Falls Carnival, Zimbabwe Hwange’s waterholes pumping. The culmination of this three-day music wezmat.org/pumping-legs-for-water festival is a lively New Year’s Eve party. www.vicfallscarnival.com/

africa’s biggest protection of entire river basins in the central Angolan highlands, known as new conservation the Okavango-Zambezi Water Tower, to opportunity preserve their current near-pristine state. There’s a grand vision for a wildlife The Lisima Watershed Partnership is corridor 1 500km (932 miles) long, a ‘conservation consortium’ of non- connecting Angola’s source lakes and the government organisations brought upper reaches of the Kwando, Okavango together by the National Geographic and Zambezi Rivers, through Namibia and Okavango Wilderness Project. Their main into Botswana. To realise this, a network objective is to conserve the primary of new ecosystems in partnership with Image: Björn Lauen water sources of KAZA. This involves the the Angolan government is required.

32 acknowledgements Thanks are extended to many KAZA seasons individuals within these organisations who contributed their knowledge and assistance in creating this brochure, including: Africa Conservation Travel, African wet season game drives, fishing competitions, sports Bush Camps, African Monarch events and cultural festivals. There is no Lodges, Art of Africa, Bumi Hills (green season) rainfall during these winter months, and Anti Poaching Unit, Caprivi days are sunny and warm, but nights Houseboat Safaris, Chundukwa Rains are foretold by baobab trees are cold and can get below freezing on River Lodge, Colin Gillies sprouting leaves three to four weeks higher ground in parks like Hwange and Production, CWF anti-poaching before rainfall, and by huge storm clouds Kafue. It’s common to find a hot-water unit Hwange, David Livingstone gathering in late October, which can bottle in your bed or a steaming bubble Safari Lodge, Dingani Primary be so oppressively hot that it has the bath ready for you after an evening game School, Dusty Road Experience, nickname ‘Suicide Month’. Rains are drive. Daytime temperatures increase Ecoexist Project, Flame of Africa, expected in November, most commonly towards the end of the dry season, when' Great Plains Conservation, as afternoon downpours, peaking in come October, the heat soars above 40°C Greenline Africa, Hideways, Ilala January and February and ending around and the expectation of rain is high. Lodge, Jenman African Safaris, March. These are the warm summer Mowana Safari Lodge, Namibia months, with temperatures and humidity Wildlife Resorts, Natural Selection, high and mosquitoes prevalent. Green flood season Ngoma Safari Lodge, Panthera, Season tourism offers lower prices and You may expect the flood season to Peace Parks Foundation, Sarah rewards such as newborn antelopes and coincide with the wet season in KAZA, Kerr Photography, Simalaha Horse the arrival of migrant birds to swell the but that’s not the case. After the heavy Safaris, The River Club, Tongabezi species list; however, the bush is thick so rains in Angola’s elevated forested Lodge, Travel Africa Magazine, it can be difficult to spot animals. river catchment areas, enormous Stefan van Wyk Uncharted Safaris, volumes of water are released into the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit, dry season river systems downstream. The rivers Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Victoria gather momentum and flow steadily Falls Wildlife Trust, Wild Horizons, The dry season extends from May to southwards, with the floodwaters Wild Waters Lodges, WildCRU, October, and as inland water sources dry arriving in the KAZA region several Wilderness Safaris, Wildlife up, animals congregate in huge numbers months after the initial rainfall, Credits, Xaro Lodge along rivers and at borehole-pumped saturating the floodplains and the waterholes. The bush is sparse and Okavango Delta from about April or May Special thanks go to: the game is easy to see, so safaris are until August or September. Water-based Angola Ministry of Culture, rewarded with excellent sightings. This activities available at this time include Tourism and the Environment, is the best time for walking safaris and mokoro safaris and boat trips. Botswana Tourism Organisation, Namibia Tourism Board, Zambia Tourism Agency, Zimbabwe Tourism Authority, Boundless Southern Africa, KAZA TFCA Secretariat, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ), KfW Bankengruppe

Produced by: Jive Media Africa www.jivemedia.co.za

Image: Björn Lauen

These would comprise national parks based expeditions. Angola has amazed and communally owned and privately scientists, who have made discoveries owned areas, with sustainable community- of undocumented lakes, waterfalls, vast based conservation efforts a priority. At peatlands and what is now recognised as 150 000 sq km (57 915 sq miles) – an area Africa's largest remaining intact miombo larger than England – this is the biggest woodland. They’ve documented more than conservation opportunity in Africa. 70 species of flora and fauna new to As part of the Okavango Wilderness science, and 100 species not previously Project, there have been five research known to occur in Angola. The Water Tower expeditions along the full lengths of all the project may be the last chance in the 21st main Water Tower rivers from their sources century to implement holistic ecosystem in Angola, and five large-scale land- conservation on this scale in Africa. KAVANGO ZAMBEZI TRANSFRONTIER CONSERVATION AREA KAZA This colourful exposition of KAZA, just touches on some of the fulfilling adventures to be found in the five countries that make up this world’s largest transfrontier conservation area. Collaboration between Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe have resulted in ground-breaking achievements, enabling easy cross-border travel, enriched by greater interactions with communities, cultures and conservation. A visit to KAZA takes African travel to new heights.

Cover images courtesy of Carrie Hampton, Sarah Kerr, Jacques Marais, Craig Pusey Photography, Simalaha Horse Safaris, and Simone Micheletti/Serondela Lodge