Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 438 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Chris and Pu, Gemma and Ed. Huge thanks to OUR READERS Brandon Presser for great base text and tips, Many thanks to the travellers who used the and as always to my family for holding the fort last edition and wrote to us with helpful at home without me. hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adeline, Aileen, Alice Hedger, Austin Bush Andrew Bustamante, Andrew Jennings, A massive shout out to LPers for Life Ilaria Barry Walden, Benno Bauchspiess, Bertrand, Walker and Bruce Evans, and huge thanks to Brandon Hausmann, Cecilie Normand, Chris- coordinating author Celeste Brash and the kind topher Byrd , Daniel, Dinesh, Eveline, Fortuin, folks on the ground in Thailand. Gordon Hague (Blacktip), Heather Johnson, Helen Macnee, Jan Mulder, Jihi Bustamante, David Eimer Jilly MacPherson, Joana Correia, Jonathan Much gratitude to Khun Morn for her Trat tips Boyle, Kat, Katia Moretti, Liz McEwan, Luigi and islands advice. Thanks to China Williams Huikeshoven , Marco Ooms, Mark Britowich, and to Ilaria Walker, Bruce Evans, Diana Von Mathias, Mehmet, Menard, Ms. Oy, Murat Holdt and Lorna Goodyer at Lonely Planet. As Mirata, Rachel Cooper, Robert Carter, Sara ever, thanks to the many people who passed on Forssell, Saskia Beijering, Sergio Sancho, Ste- information along the way, whether knowingly fano Tirelli, Suwatchai Praesomboon, Theodore,, or unwittingly. Gemmer, Thomas Stegemann, Tristan Four- Adam Skolnick cault, Ulla Pajanen, Yvonne Degen As is always the case for me in Thailand, I received far too many friendly smiles and AUTHOR THANKS welcome insights to thank everyone appropri- ately. So allow me to give one giant hug to this Celeste Brash fun, strange, spicy and soothing country that Thanks to Samui Steve, Johnny, Kirk Stucker, is so very easy to adore. I’d also like to thank Rachel and Stephen and Nick Ray for help Aleesha Wilson and Annie Lim for their assist- on Samui. On Ko Pha-Ngan a huge thanks to ance; Pak and James in Krabi; Chawalit ‘Lek’ my friend Marissa Bright and to the folks at Ratanachinakorn at Saneha; Wilai and family Chaloklam Diving who, despite going out of in Phuket Town; Nico, Diane, Scott and Chaini their way to help, never found out who I was. at my new Phuket home; Tony and Jo at Rum On Tao thanks to Heather and Andy Keeler, Jungle; Wan Phakawan, James Hembrow, Ja 439 and Thanasin; and the wonderful Celine Mas- son, Claude Sauter and your sweet children for our continued, valued and deepening friendship. All is Love. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS BEHIND THE SCENES Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Illustrations pp56-7 and pp62-3 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Hat Phra Nang, Krabi. © Chad Case/Alamy Commissioning Editor Cover Research Naomi THIS BOOK Ilaria Walker Parker This 9th edition of Thailand’s Coordinating Editors Language Content Islands & Beaches was Lorna Parkes, Luna Soo, Tracy Branislava Vladisavljevic researched and written by Ce- Whitmey Thanks to Elin Berglund, leste Brash, Austin Bush, David Senior Cartographer Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Eimer and Adam Skolnick. The Diana Von Holdt Errol Hunt, Genesys India, previous edition was written Book Designer Clara Jouve India, Anne Mason, and researched by Celeste Monitto Kate Mathews, Wayne Murphy, and Austin along with Bran- Martine Power, Angela Tinson don Presser. This guidebook Assisting Editors Bruce was commissioned in Lonely Evans, Anne Mulvaney, Chris Planet’s Melbourne office, and Pitts produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440 Index A Phuket Aquarium 256 Ko Ratanakosin 14, 54-9, Ko Phayam 281 accommodation 21, 22, 409- Siam Ocean World 55 72-4, 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 Ko Tarutao Marine 10, see also individual Songkhla Aquarium 232 lesbian travellers 83 National Park 351 locations architecture 249, 382-3, see medical services 88-9 Prachuap Khiri Khan 160 language 433 also historical buildings, money 89 Similan Islands Marine activities 21-2, 36, see also palaces, temples & nightlife 81-4 National Park 295 shrines indivdual activities Phahurat 59-60, 74, 79 Surin Islands Marine area codes 17, 417 National Park 286 air travel 420-1, 422 postal services 89 art galleries, see museums Thung Sam Roi Yot alcohol 390 Sathon 75-6, 79-80, 82, & galleries National Park 159 Chalong Bay Rum 20, 66-7 arts 380-3, see also books, Bo Phut 182-3, 187-8, 256, 258 scams 76 films, theatre 183 wine 148-9, 154 shopping 85-8 ATMs 413 boat cruises amulets 230 Siam Square 60-4, 74-5, avian influenza 429 Bangkok 71 Andaman coast 48, 241-358, 79, 64-5 Ko Phi-Phi Don 320 242, 302 sights 51-66 Phuket 246 Ang Thong Marine National B Silom 75-6, 79-80, 82, Prachuap Khiri Khan 160 Park 224-5, 2 Ban Bang Bao 128-9 66-7 animals 394-5, see also Ban Chalok Lam 202 Sukhumvit 76-7, 80-1, boat travel 92-3, 422 wildlife, individual Ban Khai 199-200 82-3, 68-9 books 360 species Ban Ko Lanta 334 tailors 86 arts 383 Ao Bang Thao 273-4, 272 Ban Krut 164-6 Thonburi 54-9, 72-4, 78-9, fiction 380 Ao Hin Khow 281-2 Ban Phe 107-8 81-2, 58-9 history 363 Ao Kantiang 333, 12 Ban Sok 290 toilets 89 rock climbing 314 Ao Khanom 228-9 Bang Po 183-4, 188 tourist information 89 border crossings 421-2 Ao Khao Kwai 281-2 Bang Saphan Yai 164-6 tours 69-71 Cambodia 112, 122, Ao Khlong Jaak 333 128, 421 Bangkok 14, 47, 50-93, travel to/from 89-91 Ao Khlong Prao 126-7 dangers 414-15 52-3 travel within 91-3 Ao Lo Bakao 324-5 accommodation 50, 72-8 Banglamphu 54-9, 72-4, Laos 421 Ao Lo Dalam 320-3 activities 67, 69 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 Malaysia 240, 422 Ao Mai Pai 333 Banglamphu 54-9, 72-4, bargaining 19, 416 Myanmar 163, 280, 422 Ao Nai Wok 200-1 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 bathrooms 417 Bottle Beach 203 Ao Nang 308-11 children, travel with 55 beaches 21, 32-8 boxing, see moo·ay tai Ao Phang-Nga 13, 295-6, Chinatown 59-60, 74, 79 beer 390 Buddhism 378-9 296, 13 climate 50 bicycle travel, see cycling budget 17 Ao Tadeng 283 courses 69 Big Buddha Beach 181-2, accommodation 409 Ao Tanot 218-19 drinking 81-4 187 diving 40 Ao Them Lem 308 emergencies 88 birds 394-5 food 412 Ao Toh Ko 324 entertainment 84-5 bird-watching bungy jumping 244 Ao Ton Sai 320-3 events 71-2 Hat Chao Mai National Burmese migrants 378 Park 341 Ao Yai 282-3, 283 festivals 71-2 bus travel 421, 422-3, 424 Khao Phanom Bencha aquariums food 50, 78-81 business hours 414 National Park 309 Cholatassathan Museum gay travellers 83 100 Khao Sam Roi Yot highlights 52-3 National Park 160 C history 51 Khao Sok National Park cabs, see taxis Map Pages 000 internet access 88 288 camping Photo Pages 000 itineraries 51 Ko Chang 283 Ao Mai Ngam 286 441 Hat Chao Mai National chow lair 255, 285-6, Ao Nang 308 Ko Pha-Ngan 196 Park 341 350, 377 cave diving 212 Kuiburi National Park Khao Sok National Chumphon 166-9, 167 environmental issues 160 Park 289 cinema 360, 381 406-7 Laem Tanod 333 Ko Adang 358 climate 16, 23-4, 410, freediving 42, 212 Phuket 246 Ko Ngai 342 see also individual Hat Khao Lak 291-2 elephants 145, 394, 407-8 Ko Rawi 358 locations Hin Daeng 329 Elephant Hills 289 INDEX Ko Tarutao 352 climbing, see rock-climbing Hin Muang 329 Kaeng Krachan National Laem Tanod 333-4 clothing 86 Khao Sok National Park 143 Sirinat National Park 275 coffee 389, 390 Park 288 Khao Sok National C-F Surin Islands Marine community-based tourism Ko Chang 125 Park 288 National Park 286-7 287 Ko Haa 329 King’s Cup Elephant Polo car travel 421, 423-4 conservation 43, 400 Ko Lanta 329-30 Tournament 151 language 436 consulates 411-12 Ko Lipe 354-5 Kuiburi National Park 160 cathedrals 115 cooking courses 20 Ko Pha-Ngan 195-6 Phuket Fantasea 270 caves Bangkok 69 Ko Phi-Phi 319 embassies 411-12 Ao Khanom 228 Hua Hin 151 Ko Phi-Phi Don 318-19 Crocodile Cave 352 Ko Chang 124 emergencies 17, 413, Ko Samui 175-6 see also individual Emerald Cave 342-3 Ko Lanta 330 Ko Tao 209-13, 9, 39 locations Khao Khanap Nam 303 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 Ko Yao 298 language 435 Phang-Nga 296 Ko Samui 176 Koh Mak 133 endangered species 395 Tham Chao Mai 345 Phuket 247 live-aboards 42 environmental issues 20, Tham Jara-Khe 352 coral reefs 398-400 Phuket 243 43, 111, 395, 396-400 Tham Khao Bandai-It 141 costs, see budget Railay 314 ethnicity 376-7 Tham Khao Luang 139 courses, see also cooking Ranong 277-8 etiquette 19, 406, 407 Tham Khao Maikaeo 329 courses, diving courses Richelieu Rock 286 eating 389, 391 Tham Lawt 296 acrobatics 213 safety 41 temples 19, 307, 407 Tham Lot 307 kiteboarding 176 Similan