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Behind the Scenes

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Chris and Pu, Gemma and Ed. Huge thanks to OUR READERS Brandon Presser for great base text and tips, Many thanks to the travellers who used the and as always to my family for holding the fort last edition and wrote to us with helpful at home without me. hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adeline, Aileen, Alice Hedger, Austin Bush

Andrew Bustamante, Andrew Jennings , A massive shout out to LPers for Life Ilaria Barry Walden, Benno Bauchspiess, Bertrand, Walker and Bruce Evans, and huge thanks to

Brandon Hausmann, Cecilie Normand, Chris- coordinating author Celeste Brash and the kind

topher Byrd , Daniel, Dinesh, ,Eveline Fortuin, folks on the ground in Thailand. Gordon Hague (Blacktip), Heather Johnson, Helen Macnee, Jan Mulder, Jihi Bustamante, David Eimer Jilly MacPherson, Joana Correia, Jonathan Much gratitude to Khun Morn for her Trat tips Boyle, Kat, Katia Moretti, Liz McEwan, Luigi and islands advice. Thanks to China Williams

Huikeshoven , Marco Ooms, Mark Britowich, and to Ilaria Walker, Bruce Evans, Diana Von Mathias, Mehmet, Menard, Ms. Oy, Murat Holdt and Lorna Goodyer at Lonely Planet. As

Mirata, Rachel Cooper, Robert Carter , Sara ever, thanks to the many people who passed on Forssell, Saskia Beijering, Sergio Sancho, Ste- information along the way, whether knowingly

fano Tirelli, Suwatchai Praesomboon, ,,Theodore or unwittingly. Gemmer, Thomas Stegemann, Tristan Four- Adam Skolnick cault , Ulla Pajanen, Yvonne Degen As is always the case for me in Thailand, I received far too many friendly smiles and AUTHOR THANKS welcome insights to thank everyone appropri- ately. So allow me to give one giant hug to this Celeste Brash fun, strange, spicy and soothing country that Thanks to Samui Steve, Johnny, Kirk Stucker, is so very easy to adore. I’d also like to thank Rachel and Stephen and Nick Ray for help Aleesha Wilson and Annie Lim for their assist- on Samui. On Ko Pha-Ngan a huge thanks to ance; Pak and James in Krabi; Chawalit ‘Lek’ my friend Marissa Bright and to the folks at Ratanachinakorn at Saneha; Wilai and family Chaloklam Diving who, despite going out of in Phuket Town; Nico, Diane, Scott and Chaini their way to help, never found out who I was. at my new Phuket home; Tony and Jo at Rum On Tao thanks to Heather and Andy Keeler, Jungle; Wan Phakawan, James Hembrow, Ja BEHIND THE SCENES 439

Naomi Elin Berglund, Jouve Jouve India, Anne Mason, Kate Wayne Mathews, Murphy, Angela Tinson Martine Power, Cover Research Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Ryan Larissa Evans, Frost, Errol Hunt, Genesys India,

Bruce Clara - Book Designer Monitto Assisting Editors Anne ChrisEvans, Mulvaney, Pitts Commissioning Editor Ilaria Walker Coordinating Editors Lorna Luna Parkes, Tracy Soo, Whitmey Senior Cartographer DianaHoldt Von - - was was Thailand’s Illustrations pp56-7 and pp62-3 by Michael by pp62-3 and pp56-7 Illustrations Krabi. Nang, Hat Phra photograph: Cover don Presser. This guidebookdon Presser. was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: leste leste Austin Brash, Bush, David Eimer and Adam Skolnick. The previous edition was written and researched by Celeste and Austin along with Bran THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Islands & Beaches researched and written by Ce Sciences, 11, 1633–44. 11, Sciences, Weldon. © Chad Case/Alamy Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate Köppen-Geiger the Map of World System Earth and Hydrology Classification’, for for our continued, valued and deepening All is friendship. Love. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and Thanasin;and and the wonderful Celine Mas Claudeson, Sauter and children sweet your ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440

Index

A Phuket Aquarium 256 Ko Ratanakosin 14, 54-9, Ko Phayam 281 accommodation 21, 22, 409- Siam Ocean World 55 72-4, 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 Ko Tarutao Marine 10, see also individual Songkhla Aquarium 232 lesbian travellers 83 National Park 351 locations architecture 249, 382-3, see medical services 88-9 Prachuap Khiri Khan 160 language 433 also historical buildings, money 89 Similan Islands Marine activities 21-2, 36, see also palaces, temples & nightlife 81-4 National Park 295 shrines indivdual activities Phahurat 59-60, 74, 79 Surin Islands Marine area codes 17, 417 National Park 286 air travel 420-1, 422 postal services 89 art galleries, see museums Thung Sam Roi Yot alcohol 390 Sathon 75-6, 79-80, 82, & galleries National Park 159 Chalong Bay Rum 20, 66-7 arts 380-3, see also books, Bo Phut 182-3, 187-8, 256, 258 scams 76 films, theatre 183 wine 148-9, 154 shopping 85-8 ATMs 413 boat cruises amulets 230 Siam Square 60-4, 74-5, avian influenza 429 Bangkok 71 Andaman coast 48, 241-358, 79, 64-5 Ko Phi-Phi Don 320 242, 302 sights 51-66 Phuket 246 Ang Thong Marine National B Silom 75-6, 79-80, 82, Prachuap Khiri Khan 160 Park 224-5, 2 Ban Bang Bao 128-9 66-7 animals 394-5, see also Ban Chalok Lam 202 Sukhumvit 76-7, 80-1, boat travel 92-3, 422 wildlife, individual Ban Khai 199-200 82-3, 68-9 books 360 species Ban Ko Lanta 334 tailors 86 arts 383 Ao Bang Thao 273-4, 272 Ban Krut 164-6 Thonburi 54-9, 72-4, 78-9, fiction 380 Ao Hin Khow 281-2 Ban Phe 107-8 81-2, 58-9 history 363 Ao Kantiang 333, 12 Ban Sok 290 toilets 89 rock climbing 314 Ao Khanom 228-9 Bang Po 183-4, 188 tourist information 89 border crossings 421-2 Ao Khao Kwai 281-2 Bang Saphan Yai 164-6 tours 69-71 Cambodia 112, 122, Ao Khlong Jaak 333 128, 421 Bangkok 14, 47, 50-93, travel to/from 89-91 Ao Khlong Prao 126-7 dangers 414-15 52-3 travel within 91-3 Ao Lo Bakao 324-5 accommodation 50, 72-8 Banglamphu 54-9, 72-4, Laos 421 Ao Lo Dalam 320-3 activities 67, 69 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 Malaysia 240, 422 Ao Mai Pai 333 Banglamphu 54-9, 72-4, bargaining 19, 416 Myanmar 163, 280, 422 Ao Nai Wok 200-1 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 bathrooms 417 Bottle Beach 203 Ao Nang 308-11 children, travel with 55 beaches 21, 32-8 boxing, see moo·ay tai Ao Phang-Nga 13, 295-6, Chinatown 59-60, 74, 79 beer 390 Buddhism 378-9 296, 13 climate 50 bicycle travel, see cycling budget 17 Ao Tadeng 283 courses 69 Big Buddha Beach 181-2, accommodation 409 Ao Tanot 218-19 drinking 81-4 187 diving 40 Ao Them Lem 308 emergencies 88 birds 394-5 food 412 Ao Toh Ko 324 entertainment 84-5 bird-watching bungy jumping 244 Ao Ton Sai 320-3 events 71-2 Hat Chao Mai National Burmese migrants 378 Park 341 Ao Yai 282-3, 283 festivals 71-2 bus travel 421, 422-3, 424 Khao Phanom Bencha aquariums food 50, 78-81 business hours 414 National Park 309 Cholatassathan Museum gay travellers 83 100 Khao Sam Roi Yot highlights 52-3 National Park 160 C history 51 Khao Sok National Park cabs, see taxis Map Pages 000 internet access 88 288 camping Photo Pages 000 itineraries 51 Ko Chang 283 Ao Mai Ngam 286 441 Hat Chao Mai National chow lair 255, 285-6, Ao Nang 308 Ko Pha-Ngan 196 Park 341 350, 377 cave diving 212 Kuiburi National Park Khao Sok National Chumphon 166-9, 167 environmental issues 160 Park 289 cinema 360, 381 406-7 Laem Tanod 333 Ko Adang 358 climate 16, 23-4, 410, freediving 42, 212 Phuket 246 Ko Ngai 342 see also individual Hat Khao Lak 291-2 elephants 145, 394, 407-8

Ko Rawi 358 locations Hin Daeng 329 Elephant Hills 289 INDEX Ko Tarutao 352 climbing, see rock-climbing Hin Muang 329 Kaeng Krachan National Laem Tanod 333-4 clothing 86 Khao Sok National Park 143

Sirinat National Park 275 coffee 389, 390 Park 288 Khao Sok National  C-F Surin Islands Marine community-based tourism Ko Chang 125 Park 288  National Park 286-7 287 Ko Haa 329 King’s Cup Elephant Polo car travel 421, 423-4 conservation 43, 400 Ko Lanta 329-30 Tournament 151 language 436 consulates 411-12 Ko Lipe 354-5 Kuiburi National Park 160 cathedrals 115 cooking courses 20 Ko Pha-Ngan 195-6 Phuket Fantasea 270 caves Bangkok 69 Ko Phi-Phi 319 embassies 411-12 Ao Khanom 228 Hua Hin 151 Ko Phi-Phi Don 318-19 Crocodile Cave 352 Ko Chang 124 emergencies 17, 413, Ko Samui 175-6 see also individual Emerald Cave 342-3 Ko Lanta 330 Ko Tao 209-13, 9, 39 locations Khao Khanap Nam 303 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 Ko Yao 298 language 435 Phang-Nga 296 Ko Samui 176 Koh Mak 133 endangered species 395 Tham Chao Mai 345 Phuket 247 live-aboards 42 environmental issues 20, Tham Jara-Khe 352 coral reefs 398-400 Phuket 243 43, 111, 395, 396-400 Tham Khao Bandai-It 141 costs, see budget Railay 314 ethnicity 376-7 Tham Khao Luang 139 courses, see also cooking Ranong 277-8 etiquette 19, 406, 407 Tham Khao Maikaeo 329 courses, diving courses Richelieu Rock 286 eating 389, 391 Tham Lawt 296 acrobatics 213 safety 41 temples 19, 307, 407 Tham Lot 307 kiteboarding 176 Similan Islands Marine Thai massage 403 meditation 174 Tham Luk Seua 297 National Park 294-5 events, see festivals & Tham Morakot 342-3 rock climbing 314 supplies 88 events Tham Nam Thalu 288 moo·ay tai 69, 103, 176 Surin Islands Marine exchange rates 17 Tham Pee Hua Toe 307 Thai massage 403 National Park 286 Tham Phaya Naak 327 underwater technical diving 42, Tham Pheung 309 photography 213 211, 212 F festivals & events 23-4, Tham Phra Nang 312 credit cards 413 weddings 344 culture 36, 377-8, 381, 382 see also individual Tham Phra Nang Nai wrecks 20 locations 314 currency 413 diving courses 41 Chinese New Year 23, 71 Tham Reusi Sawan 297 customs regulations 410-11 Ao Nang 308 Chumphon Marine Tham Sa Yuan Thong cutaneous larva migrans Hat Khao Lak 291-2 Festival 166 307 428 Ko Chang 125 Chumphon Traditional Tham Seua 329 cycling 424 Ko Lanta 329-30 Boat Race 166 Tham Si Ru 288 Bangkok 70 Ko Lipe 354 food festivals 24, 72, Trang 338 Ko Sukorn 346 Ko Tao 209-12 115-6, 144, 252 Viking Cave 327 Ko Yao 298 Phuket 243 Fringe Festival 151 Wat Tham Seua 307 language 436 Railay 314 Hua Hin Jazz Festival 151 cell phones 417 Phuket 247 dolphin watching 157, 228 King’s Birthday 72 Cha-am 144-6 drinks 389-90, see also King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament 151 Chalok Ban Kao 217-18, 221 D coffee, rum, tea, wine Chanthaburi 113-16, 114 dance 383 language 433-5 Loi Krathong 72 chao leh, see chow lair dangers see safety driving, see car travel Pattaya International Music Festival 23, 103 Chatuchak Weekend day spas 176, 262, 273, 277, driving licences 423 Market 87-8 see also Thai massage drugs 207, 415 Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair 141 child prostitution 385 deep vein thrombosis 427 Phuket Gay Pride children, travel with 44-6 dengue fever 428 E Festival 269 Bangkok 55 diarrhoea 429 economy 378 Songkran 23, 71, 25 food 46 disabilities, travellers electricity 411 Vegetarian Festival 72, health 431 with 418 elephant trekking 407-8 249-50, 252, 338 Phuket 246 diving 36, 40-2, , see also 2 Ko Chang 123 filariasis 429 Chinese New Year 23, 71 diving courses Ko Lanta 329 films 360 442 food 21, 23, 99, 185, Hat Khlong Khong 332 Surin Islands Marine I 386-93, 412, see Hat Khlong Nin 332-3 National Park 286 ice 391 also individual Hat Khuat 203 Hin Wong 218 immigration 418, 420 locations Hat Laem Thong 325 historical buildings influenza 428 costs 412 Hat Lamai 180, 186, 189 Abhisek Dusit Throne insect bites 430 festivals 24, 72, 115-6, Hall 65-6 144, 252 Hat Lodung 343 insurance 412 INDEX INDEX Dusit Palace Park 64 Hat Mai Khao 275-6 car 424 for children 46 Jim Thompson House Hat Nai Han 256, 257 health 426 fruit 387, 388 60-1 hygiene 430 Hat Nai Thon 275 internet access 412

F Phra Nakhon Khiri

Hat Nai Yang 275-6 internet resources 17, see - 

K language 433-5 Historical Park 139  also websites vegan 391 Hat Noppharat Thara Vimanmek Teak 311-12 Islam 379-80 vegetarian 24, 72, 78, Mansion 65 249-50, 252, 338 Hat Pakarang 290 history 362-75 islands 32-8 fossils 311 Hat Pak Meng 340-1 Ayuthaya 365-6 itineraries 26-31 freediving 42, 212 Hat Patong 264-70, 266 Bangkok era 366-8 Bangkok 51 Full Moon parties 194, 11 Hat Phak Nam 324 Black May 370 Ko Chang (gulf coast) 120 Hat Phra Ae 331-2 Deep South 373-5 Gulf islands 171 Hat Railay East 315-16 King Bhumibol 368 G Hat Railay West 315 King Chulalongkorn 367 galleries, see museums & Hat Rantee 324 galleries King Mongkut 367 J Hat Rawai 256-9, gà·teu·i 190 257 Lanna 364-5 James Bond Island 297 Hat Rin 197-99, 204, 206, cabaret 71, 84, 191, 69 Phibul government 368 Japanese B encephalitis 198, 11 429 gay travellers 83, 269, 412 Red Shirts 372 Hat Sai Khao 125-6 Jatukham Rammathep 230 geography 394 Sukhothai 365 Hat Sai Noi 156 jellyfish stings 430 gibbons 145 Tai kingdoms 364-6 Hat Salad 202 Jim Thompson House 60-1 Kaeng Krachan National Thaksin Shinawatra Hat Sivalai 343 Park 143 371-4 Hat Son 201 Khao Lak/Lam Ru Yellow Shirts 372 K National Park 290-1 Hat Surin 271-3, 272 hitchhiking 424 Kaeng Krachan National Khao Sok National Hat Tham Phra Nang 317 HIV 385, 428 Park 143-4 Park 288 Hat Thian 203-4 HM the King’s Birthday 24 kathoey, see gà·teu·i Phuket Gibbon Hat Ton Sai 317 holidays 414 kayaking 22, 22 Rehabilitation Hat Yai 233-4 horse riding 244 Ao Nang 308 Centre 277 Hat Yao (Ko Pha-Ngan) 201 hot springs 277 Ao Phang-Nga National go-go bars 84 Hat Yao (Ko Phi-Phi Don) Hua Hin 47, 137-69, 146-56, Marine Park 297, 13 golf 150, 246-7 323-4, 345 138, 148, 158 Ko Chang 123 Grand Palace 54, 56-7, Hat Yuan 203-4 accommodation 137, Ko Phi-Phi Don 318 56-7 health 426-31 151-3 Ko Samui 175 children’s 46 activities 150 Krabi 303 H insurance 426 climate 137 Phuket 244 Hat Bang 290 traditional Thai medicine courses 151 Railay 314 404 drinking 154-5 Hat Bang Rak 181-2, 187 Khao Lak 290-4, 291 vaccinations 426-7 emergencies 155 Hat Chang Lang 340-1 Khao Luang National Hat Chaweng 177-180, hepatitis A 428 festivals & events 151 Park 232 185-6, 189, 178 hepatitis B 428 food 137, 153-4 Khao Phanom Bencha Hat Farang 343-4 hepatitis E 429 highlights 138 National Park 309 Hat Hin Khom 323 hiking 36 information 155 Khao Phra Tamnak 102 Hat Kaibae 127 Khao Sam Roi Yot medical services 155 Khao Phra Thaew Royal National Park 159-60 Hat Kamala 270-1, 272 nightlife 154-5 Wildlife & Forest Khao Sok National Reserve 276-7 Hat Karon 263-4, 261 sights 147-9 Park 288 Khao Sam Roi Yot National Hat Kata 259-63, 261, 22 tourist information 155 Ko Chang 124 Park 158-60 Hat Khao Lak 290-4, tours 150 291 Ko Lanta 329 Khao Sok National Park travel seasons 137 Hat Khao Tao 156 Ko Phi-Phi Don 318 288-9, 29 travel to/from 155 Hat Khlong Dao 331 Ko Tao 213 Khuraburi 285 humanitarian organisations Laem Tanod 333 104, 408 kiteboarding 20, 22, 22 Satun 347 Hua Hin 150 Map Pages human trafficking 385 000 Similan Islands Marine Ko Samui 176 Photo Pages 000 National Park 295 Phuket 244, 246 443 Ko Adang 358 Ko Phi-Phi Don 12, 48, Ko Yao 298-300 markets 87-8 Ko Bulon Leh 350-1 318-27, 320, 12 Ko Yo 232 Ao Ton Sai 325 Ko Chang (gulf coast) 12, accommodation 320-5 Krabi province 303-37 Asiatique 88 47, 120-32, 121, 12 activities 318-19 Krabi Town 303-7, 304, 38 Bangkok 87 accommodation 125-9 courses 319 Chatuchak Weekend activities 123-4 drinking 326 Market 87-8

courses 124 food 325-6 L Dan Singkhon 163 INDEX ladyboys, see gà·teu·i drinking 129-31 medical services 326 Gem Market 114 Laem Phanwa 255-6 food 129-31 tours 319-20 Khlong Toey Market 87 Laem Son National Park Khurabiri 285  K-M information 131 travel to/from 326-7 284-5 sights 121-3 travel within 327 Ko Samui 188  Laem Tanod 333-4 Krabi 305 travel to/from 131 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 327, 27 lakes Or Tor Kor Market 87-8 travel within 132 Ko Phra Thong 287-8 Ao Bang Thao 273 Pak Khlong Talat 87 Ko Chang (Andaman Ko Phuket, see Phuket Chiaw Lan 288 coast) 283-4 Phuket Town 254 Ko Pu 259 Dusit Zoo 55 Ko Hong 307 Pratunam 88 Ko Ra 287-8 Emerald Sea 224 Ko Jum 336-7 Sampeng Lane 87 Ko Ratanakosin 14, 54-9, Kaeng Krachan National Ko Klang 305 72-4, 78-9, 81-2, 58-9 Park 143-4 Satun night markets 348 Ko Kradan 344-5 Ko Rawi 358 language 19, 432-7 Talat Mai 59 Ko Kut 10, 134-6, 10 Ko Samet 108-13, 109 legal matters 412-13 Talat Rot Fai 87 Ko Lanta 12, 327-36, 328 Ko Samui 14, 48, 171-93, leptospirosis 428 Thanon Khao San Market 88 accommodation 330-4 172-3, 174 lesbian travellers 83, activities 329-30 accommodation 176-84 269, 412 Trang 338-9 courses 330 activities 175-6 literature 380, see also Trat 117 drinking 335 courses 176 books massage, see Thai massage emergencies 335 drinking & nightlife live-aboards 42 measles 428 food 334-5 189-91 Loi Krathong 24 measures 415 medical services 335 emergencies 191 Lonely Beach 127-8 media 375 nightlife 335 entertainment 191 lower Gulf 48 , 170-240, medical services 427, sights 327-36 food 184-9 172-3 see also individual locations travel to/from 335-6 information 191-2 accommodation 170 meliodosis 429 travel within 336 medical services 191 climate 170 mobile phones 417 Ko Lanta Marine National safety 191 food 170 Park 330 sights 171-5 highlights 172-3 Moken people 286 Ko Lao Liang 346 travel to/from 192 travel seasons 170 money 17, 19, 413-14, see also budget Ko Libong 345-6 travel within 193 money-changers 413 Ko Lipe 13, 354-8, 13, 38 Ko Si Boya 336-7 M monkeys Ko Mak 132-4 Ko Si Chang 99-100 Mae Hat 215-17, 220-21, Khao Chong Krajok 161 Ko Muk 342-4 Ko Sireh 255 216 Khao Lak/Lam Ru Ko Sukorn 346-7 Ko Nang Yuan 219 Mae Nam 183-4, 188, 14 National Park 290-1 Ko Ngai 341-2, 8, 29 Ko Tao 9, 209-24, 209, malaria 428 Khao Phanom Bencha Ko Pha-Ngan 10, 193-208, 9, 39 maps 413 National Park 309 193, 32 accommodation 213-19 marine national parks, see Khao Sok National Park accommodation 196-204 activities 209-13 also national parks & 288-9 activities 195-6 drinking 221-2 reserves Khao Takiab 149 drinking 206 emergencies 222 Ang Thong Marine Ko Tarutao 309 food 204-6 entertainment 222 National Park 224-5, 2 Phetchaburi 139, 140, Hat Rin 197-99, 204, food 219-21 Ao Phang-Nga National 141, 142 206, 198, 11 information 222-3 Marine Park 296-7, 22 Wat Tham Suwankhuha internet access 207 medical services 222 Ko Lanta Marine 297-8 medical services 207 nightlife 221-2 National Park 330 monks 379 nightlife 206 safety 222 Ko Tarutao Marine moo·ay tai 254 National Park 351-8, safety 207 shopping 222 courses 69, 103, 176 353 sights 194-5 travel to/from 223-4 stadiums 85, 269, 311 Similan Islands Marine motorcycle travel 421, tourist information 207-8 travel within 224 National Park 294-5, 423-4 tours 196 Ko Tarutao 352-4 294-5 language 436 travel to/within 208 Ko Tarutao Marine National Surin Islands Marine scams 192 Ko Phayam 281-3 Park 351-8, 353 National Park 285-7 Ko Phing Kan 297 Ko Wai 132 muay Thai, see moo·ay tai 444 museums & galleries Khao Khitchakut Phang-Nga 295-6 R Ancient City 61 National Park 113 Phang-Nga province rabies 428 Ancient Cloth Museum Khao Lak/Lam Ru 285-300 radio 415 National Park 290-1 65 Phetburi see Phetchaburi Rafflesia kerrii 288 Khao Luang National Anek Kusala Sala (Viharn Phetchaburi 139-43, 140 Rai Leh, see Railay Sien) 101 Park 232 photography 414 Railay 10, 312-18, 313, 10

INDEX INDEX Khao Phanom Bencha Corrections Museum 61 Phra Chudadhut Palace 99 National Park 309 Railay highlands 316-17 Ku Den Museum 347 Phuket 11, 48, 243-77, Khao Phra Thaew Royal Ranong 277-81, 278 Madame Tussaud’s 55 245, 11 Wildlife & Forest Ranong Province 277-85 M- Museum of Siam 58-9 activities 243-4, 246-7  Reserve 276-7 Rawai 256-9, 257 S National Museum children, travel with 246  Khao Sam Roi Yot Rayong 107-8 (Bangkok) 55, 58 National Park 158-60 courses 247 religion 361, 378-80 National Museum Khao Sok National Park internet resources 248 (Nakhon Si reserves, see national 288-9, medical services 247-8 Thammarat) 230 29 parks & reserves Kuiburi National Park safety 247 National Museum Richelieu Rock 15, 286 160 (Songkhla) 232 tourist information 248 rock-climbing 21-2, 36 Laem Son National Park Parasite Museum 61 tours 247 284-5 books 314 Phuket Philatelic travel to/within 248-9 Nam Tok Phlio National courses 314 Museum 249 Phuket Fantasea 270 Park 113 Ko Lao Liang 346 Phuket Thaihua Museum Phuket Gay Pride Festival Sirinat National Park Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 249 269 275-6 Ko Yao 298 Royal Thai Elephant Phuket Town 249-55, 250 Tharnbok Korannee Railay 314, 10, 38 Museum 66 accommodation 250-1 National Park 307-8 rubber plantations 346 Shadow Puppets 230 activities 249 Thung Sam Roi Yot rum 20, 256, 258 Songkran Niyomsane National Park 159 drinking 253-4 Forensic Medicine newspapers 88, 415 festivals 249-50 Museum 61 new year, see Chinese New food 251-3 S Suan Pakkad Palace Year, Songkran nightlife 253-4 safety 76, 414-15, see also Museum 64 nuns 379 shopping 254 individual locations Thalang National children’s 46 Museum 277 sights 249 diving 41 Wat Phra Mahathat tourist information 255 O drugs 207, 415 Woramahawihaan 230 opening hours 414 travel to/within 255 Full Moon parties 194 music 84, 381-2 planning, see also hitching 424 music festivals individual locations Phuket 247 Hua Hin Jazz Festival P budgeting 17 24, 151 PADI courses, see diving calendar of events 23-4 road 424 courses Pattaya International children, travel with 44-6 tsunamis 265 Music Festival 23, 103 painting 383 diving 40-2 Sairee Beach 214-15, Pak Bara 349-50 internet resources 17 219, 216 palaces itineraries 26-31 San Jao Phaw Khao Yai 100 N Dusit Palace Park 64-7 Sathon 75-6, 79-80, 82, Nakhon Si Thammarat repeat visitors 20 Grand Palace 54, 56-7, 66-7 229-31 snorkelling 42-3 56-7 Satun 347-9, Nakhon Si Thammarat Thailand basics 16-17 348 Phra Chudadhut Palace Province 228-32 travel seasons 16, 23-4 Satun province 347-58 99 Naklua 101-7, 102 plants 395-7 scams 18, 76, 207, 192, 415 Phra Nakhon Khiri scuba diving, see diving Narathiwat 236-8 Historical Park 139 politics 360-1, 374-5 sea gypsies, see chow lair national parks & reserves parasites 430 Deep South 361 396, 398, 399, see also sea kayaking, see kayaking parks & gardens, see Thaksin Shinawatra marine national parks, sex industry 384-5 also national parks & 360, 371 parks & gardens reserves population 361, 376-7 shadow puppets 230, 383 accommodation 410 King Taksin Park 115 postal services 414 sharks, see whale sharks Hat Chao Mai National Lumphini Park 55 Prachuap Khiri Khan 15, Shell Cemetery 311 Park 341 Suan Somdet Phra 160-4, 161, 15 shopping 416-17, see also Kaeng Krachan National Sinakharin Park 297 Pranburi 157-8 individual locations Park 143-4 Tsunami Memorial prickly heat 430 language 435 Park 265 prostitution 384-5 Si Racha 95-9, 98 passports 418, 420 public holidays 414 Siam Square 60-4, 74-5, Map Pages 000 Pattani 235-6 public transport 424-5 79, 64-5 Photo Pages 000 Pattaya 101-7, 102 puppets 230, 383 Silom 75-6, 79-80, 82, 66-7 445 Similan Islands Marine tea 389 túk-túks 93, 425 waterfalls National Park 294-5, technical diving 42, 211, TV 415 Huay To Falls 309 294 212 typhoid 429 Lo Po Falls 352 Sirinat National Park 275-6 telephone services 417 typhus 429 Lu Du Falls 352 snake bites 431 temples & shrines, see Nam Tok Hin Lat 174 snake farms 55 also wat Nam Tok Khiri Phet 123 snorkelling 36, 42-3 Erawan Shrine 61, 64 V INDEX vacations 414 Nam Tok Khlong Chao Ao Nang 308 Meunram Temple 338 134 vegan travellers 391 Hat Khao Lak 291-2 Spirit Rock 347 Nam Tok Khlong Plu 122 vegetarian travellers -Hat Yao 345 Thai boxing, see moo·ay tai  S 78, 391 Nam Tok Na Muang 171 Ko Adang 358 Thai language 432-7  W Vegetarian Festival 24, 72, Nam Tok Phaeng 195 Ko Bulon Leh 350 Thai massage 67, 69, 124, 249-50, 252, 338 Nam Tok Than Mayom Ko Chang 125 401-4, see also day 123 spas visas 418 Ko Cheuk 343 Nam Tok Than Sadet 195 courses 403 volunteering 408, 419 Ko Hin Ngam 358 Pirate’s Falls 358 Thai New Year, see Ko Chang 124 Ko Lanta 330 Sip-Et Chan 288 Songkran Ko Samui 175 Ko Lao Liang 346 Than Kloy 288 Thaksin Shinawatra 360, Pattaya 104 Ko Ngai 341-2 371-4 Than Sawan 288 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319, 43 Thalang District 277 Trang 338 Ko Samui 175 W weather 16, 23-4, 410, Tharnbok Korannee wakeboarding 244 Ko Tao 211-12 National Park 307-8 see also individual walking, see hiking locations Ko Waen 343 theatre 85, 383 walking tours 56-7, 62-3, 70 websites 17, 155, 248, Ko Yang 358 theft 415 wát, see also temples & 360, 391 Ko Yao 298 Thonburi 54-9, 72-4, 78-9, shrines wedding ceremonies 344 Railay 314 81-2, 58-9 etiquette 19, 307, 407 weights 415 Similan Islands Marine Thong Nai Pan 203 Wat Ao Noi 161 whale sharks 15, 20, 40, 41, National Park 294-5 Thong Sala 200 Wat Arun 54-5 395, 15 Surin Islands Marine tigers 145 conservation trips 292 National Park 286 Wat Hin Lat 174 time 417 Ko Lanta 329 Trang 338 Wat Kamphaeng Laeng tipping 19, 413-14 141 Ko Pha-Ngan 195 Songkhla 231-3 toilets 417 Wat Khao Tham 195 Ko Phi-Phi 319 Songkhla Province 231-4 Tonsai Village 322 Wat Khunaram 174 Ko Tao 209-10, 212 Songkran 23, 71, 25 tourist information 418 Wat Kuha Pi Muk 235 Richelieu Rock 286 spas, see day spas, Thai tours, see also individual massage Wat Laem Saw 174 Similan Islands Marine locations Wat Mahathat National Park 294-5 statues & monuments 365 bicycle 70, 150-1, 247 Worawihan 139 wildlife 394-6, see also Big Buddha 259 boat 71, 160, 246, 320 Wat Mangkon bird-watching, wildlife Boat 813 291 dolphin-watching 228 Kamalawat 60 watching, individual Emerald Buddha 54 elephants 160, 196 Wat Pho (Bangkok) 54, animals Heroines Monument 277 snorkelling 43, 175, 211 62-3, 403, 14, 46, organisations 145, 408 Monumental Chopstick touts 409, 415 62-3 volunteering 145 Mountain 149 traditional Thai medicine Wat Pho (Ko Pha-Ngan) wildlife watching Reclining Buddha 54, 404 195 Ao Khanom 228 62, 63 train travel 421, 425 Wat Phra Kaew 54, 56-7, Dolphin Bay 157 STDs 428-9 56-7 Trang 9, 337-40, 340 Hat Chao Mai National strongyloides 429 Wat Phra Mahathat Trang Islands 340-2 Park 341 Sukhumvit 76-7, 80-1, 82-3, Woramahawihaan 230 Kaeng Krachan National Trang Province 337-47, 338 68-9 Wat Phra Yai 174 Park 143 transport 420-5 sunburn 431 Wat Phu Khao Noi 195 Khao Phanom Bencha language 435-6 Sungai Kolok 238-40 Wat Samret 175 National Park 309 Trat 116-20, 117, 118 Surat Thani 225-7, 226 Wat Tantayaphirom 338 Khao Phra Thaew Royal travel seasons 16, see Surat Thani Province 225-7 Wat Tham Phan Turat Wildlife & Forest also individual Reserve 276-7 surfing 244, 259 288 locations Khao Sok National Surin Islands Marine Wat Tham Seua 307 travel to/from Thailand Park 288 National Park 285-7 420-2 Wat Tham Suwankhuha 297-8 Ko Libong 345 travel within Thailand Ko Ra 287 422-5 Wat Tham Yai Phrik 100 T Wat Traimit 59 Ko Tarutao Marine tailors 86 tsunamis 265 National Park 351-8 water 391 taxis 93, 255, 425 tuberculosis 429 Kuiburi National Park 160 446 wildlife watching continued Y Ko Tao 213 Libong Archipelago yachting 246 Ko Yao 299 Wildlife Reserve 345 Yala 234-5 Similan Islands Marine Yingluck Shinawatra Z National Park 295 360, 372 Surin Islands Marine ziplining 22, 103, 122, 243 yoga zoos 55, 232

INDEX INDEX National Park 286 Hat Kata 259 wine 148-9, 154 Ko Lipe 356 women travellers 207, 419 Ko Samui 176

W health 431 -  Z 

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 447

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro/MRT station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Celeste Brash Coordinating Author, Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf Celeste first arrived in Thailand as a student of Thai language, history and culture at Chiang Mai University. She’s come back countless times since and has run the gamut from wild nights on Ko Pha-Ngan to weeks of silence at a Buddhist wát. Her writing has appeared in publications ranging from Islands magazine to newspapers and anthologies. She’s contributed to around 50 Lonely Planet guides but her heart is irrevocably stuck on Southeast Asia. When not in exotic places, she and her family live in Portland, Oregon. Find her on the web at www.celestebrash.com.

Austin Bush Bangkok, Food & Drink, Food Spotter’s Guide Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bang- kok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since. A native of Oregon, Austin is a writer and photographer who often focuses on food. Samples of his work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com.

David Eimer Ko Chang & the Eastern Seaboard, Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf A decade of visit- ing Thailand in search of beaches and fine food prompted David to relocate to Bangkok in 2012. Since then, his work as a journalist for a variety of newspapers and magazines has taken him from the far south of Thailand to its northernmost extremities, with many stops in between. Originally from London, David spent seven years living in Beijing, and another five in LA, prior to moving to Bangkok. He has contributed to 11 Lonely Planet books.

Adam Skolnick Phuket & the Northern Andaman Coast, Ko Phi-Phi & the Southern Andaman Coast Adam Skolnick writes about travel, culture, health, sports, human rights and the environment for Lonely Planet, Outside, Travel & Leisure, Salon.com, BBC.com and ESPN.com. He has co-authored more than 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and on this research trip he drove more than 3000 kilometres and hopped on more than 50 long-tails. His debut novel, Middle of Somewhere, is set to be published in 2014. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com. Find him on Twitter and Instagram (@adamskolnick).

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 9th edition – July 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 738 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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