Caftcad Celebrates Costumes

BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION FALL 2013

CAFTCAD CELEBRATES COSTUMES

CREATING WORLDS WITH DANA SCHNEIDER DAVID CRONENBERG AT TIFF + CAFTCADEMY 101: AN INTRODUCTION TO COSTUMING IN FILM & TELEVISION Come and Shop Universal Studios Costume Department

Costume Rentals Manufacturing Motion Capture & Green Screen Suits

New & Improved Inventory Gold Room Easy Shopping Convenient client lounge with Wi-Fi

Alterations / Fitting Rooms / Offices

818.777.2722 / 800.892.1979

filmmakersdestination.com Find Us

OUR SPONSORS Universal Studios_Costume Ad_BeSpoke CAFTCAD 1/2PgHor_8.13

JOIN CAFTCAD! COSTUME ART & DESIGN AT ITS BEST

NETWORK AND SHARE WITHIN THE COSTUME COMMUNITY

WWW.CAFTCAD.COM BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION FALL 2013

CREATING WORLDS WITH DANA SCHNEIDER By Kristen O’Reilly

The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones

New CAFTCAD member jewellery accents to bring their characters to designer Dana Schneider and I first life. It is evident how much Dana loves CAFTCAD met at the CAFTCAD Celebrates collaborating with costume designers, CELEBRATES Canadian Costumes event during TIFF as well as actors (when possible), COSTUMES 2012. In town to work on Robocop giving them something custom-built Welcome to the Fall 2013 issue with Costume Designer April Ferry, her for their character. of BeSpoke, our newsletter that enthusiasm for the supernatural genre Dana’s interest in craftsmanship celebrates our alliance of 100 plus was infectious and the conversation came early, inherited and nurtured by members and showcases the talents of our members’ creativity and quickly turned into “how can we get her engineer father who taught her craft. Straddling the worlds of film, you on our show?” At the time, I was skills like casting and wrapping wire - fashion, and design, BeSpoke features assisting on Wolves and two days post- basically, the art of ‘making things.’ interesting and relevant stories on the party, Dana came to the office to meet Her interest in creating led her to work of both seasoned and neophyte with Costume Designer Patrick Antosh. study subjects like sculpture and talents, embracing the craft from both artistic and technical perspectives We were blown away by her intricately jewellery design at the Rhode Island with a much needed sense of humour hand-crafted pieces and intrigued School of Design, earning her a and fondness of the medium we’ve by her unique vision. Astonished Bachelor’s Degree in Fine Arts. After chosen to work in. This is our vehicle over pieces with spinal cord detail graduation, education continued when to create awareness for what we do and articulating jawbones, it was Dana moved to New York City and at home and for the international impossible not to imagine these pieces began her career in jewellery by doing community. We’d like to showcase the work of each and every one of you, completing our costumes. Patrick repairs at Tiffany & Co. After two years so stay involved, reach out and let us invited Dana to meet with the actors, with the iconic jewellery company, she know what you’re doing. We hope you where they creatively collaborated on was ready to start her own business. enjoy it! continued on pg. 5 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

LETTER FROM Newly elected CAFTCAD President Joanna Syrokomla with former President Luis Sequeira, founding THE PRESIDENT members Antoinette Messam and Alex Kavanagh

I’m thrilled to announce our newly for the opportunity to learn from Movie Wardrobe Sale and plan to elected CAFTCAD board for the my peers and am honoured to have regularly publish BeSpoke, a well- 2013-2015 term, that counts new and found mentors within the association. crafted showcase of our members. familiar faces: Vice President Loretta After all, it is our membership that Additionally, there are a couple of new Chin; Treasurer Sarah Armstrong; makes this organization great. I look initiatives in development which we Secretary & Communications Officer forward to serving it, our community hope you will all enjoy. Kristen O’Reilly; Board Members Anita and executive board with diplomacy, CAFTCAD wouldn’t be the success O’Toole; Antoinette Messam; Anya dignity and joy. it is today without the incredible Taraboulsy; Debra Hanson; Deborah I hope all our members from IATSE vision of our past president Luis Burton; Jennifer Kelly and Urs Dierker. 873, Nabet 700 CEP, and our non- Sequeira. I want to thank him and I am honoured to have served on union affiliated members will be our past executive boards for their the board since its inception, first as excited with our plans for the next commitment and leadership in the Secretary, then Vice President and term. We are redesigning our website creation of this organization. They now President. Back in 2006, at an which we encourage you to visit have truly set the bar high. early meeting at Vicki Graef’s studio, and use. We are continuing with our when asked if I wanted to ‘help out’, well-received CAFTCADEMY program Joanna Syrokomla I had no idea where it would lead. with hopes to expand it further. We CAFTCAD President I thought I’d be volunteering at a are moving forward with our popular CAFTCAD bake sale! Needless to say, I am thrilled I said yes. My tenure with CAFTCAD has been filled with opportunities to meet so many of our incredible members who remind me why we initially created this organization: to acknowledge and illuminate the talents of the numerous professionals and artists that make up our membership both within our community and the general public. It works both ways - I too, have From left to right: Sarah Armstrong, Urs Dierker, Deborah Burton, Loretta Chin, Kristen O’Reilly, benefited immensely and am grateful Joanna Syrokomla and Anya Taraboulsy. Missing from this photo are: Anita O’Toole, Antoinette Messam, Debra Hanson and Jennifer Kelly.

4 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

continued from pg. 3

In her thirties, Dana developed an interest in heavy metal music. This influenced her aesthetic, inspiring her to develop pieces with heavy, industrial, Goth, and fantastical themes of sub-culture. Creating accessories for tough, edgy, dark male characters quickly became Dana’s forte – it’s no wonder pop culture anti-hero Marilyn Manson has been adorned by Dana’s designs throughout the years. Hollywood had long held Dana’s interest, but without having a connection to the film industry, the time never seemed right. But in December 1998, she saw the first trailer forThe Matrix, and knew immediately it was time to make the move to LA. It took her nine months to land her first gig onFrom Hell with Jewellery designed by Dana Schneider for Costume Designer Kym Barrett (of The The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones Matrix). Dana’s dreams were coming true. She fell in love with the work and never looked back. Bones with Costume Designer Gersha jewellery that was not only central to One of the greatest challenges Phillips, and the mockingjay pin for The a character in the book, but one that for any designer can be creating Hunger Games with Costume Designer doesn’t even exist in real life. Dana pieces that are written about in Judianna Makovsky, are examples of had to create a new kind of piece - books. Dana understands how how Dana has successfully risen to the something that would not just look intertwined those items become with challenge. In the sequel to The Hunger different, but function differently too. the characters and with the readers/ Games, Catching Fire, working with Dana works on projects all over fans that exist before the movies are Costume Designer Trish Summerville the world, recently working with Kym made. Creating pieces like Jace’s coin (they previously worked together on Barrett again on Jupiter Ascending, pendant and Ruby’s snake bracelet Girl with the Dragon Tattoo) Dana was continued on pg. 6 for The Mortal Instruments: City of entrusted to bring to life a piece of

Story Editor Antoinette Messam, Anita Man has most recently Join the BeSpoke Team! Kristen O’Reilly O’Toole, Joanna Syrokomla, been seen at events in BeSpoke is looking for Copy Editor Anya Taraboulsy, Sarah Dubai and Qatar. For your volunteer writers, reporters, Kim Harkness Armstrong & Karynah Zeh next event please visit photographers, photo www.cmartworldwide.com. coordinator, advertising Art & Advertising Cover Costume director and general Urs Dierker produced by Cover Photography Kelly Francis Costumes for Michael Cooper committee members. Graphic Design CMart Worldwide, a live If interested, please email Macroblu Cover Photographer’s [email protected]. entertainment company Assistant Contributors based in Toronto, producing Jason Cipparrone Patrick Antosh, Deborah entertainment for events Cover Model Burton, Loretta Chin, across the globe. The Mirror Julian Ganton

5 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

continued from pg. 5 where she got to work at the Warner As an artist, she is always excited Brothers Studios, north of London, for something new, where she will England. With the help of technology, continue to explore a variety of ideas, she can meet costume designers techniques, and aesthetics. “Film is anywhere online, but Dana is always never boring, never the same.” Each happy to travel, because she believes project, each collaboration offers the ‘nothing beats a face to face meeting opportunity to make new discoveries to get a good understanding of the in an area she is already regarded world a designer is creating.’ Now as an expert in. For example, in After based out of Ohio, Toronto is just one Earth, Dana created the crystal ball music-blaring road trip away. necklace that Cypher’s (Will Smith) It was CAFTCAD Costume Designer wife wears. The technique she used to Antoinette Messam who brought create it was one she invented while Dana on to Skinwalkers and first got developing prototypes for the Green her interested in the industry here in Lantern ring. It is a labour intensive Toronto. Dana describes Toronto as an method that uses a new technique artisanal community filled with artists and a new material – the ‘recipe’ must Mockingjay pin from who highly regard the integrity of remain a secret, but if you ever need The Hunger Games craftsmanship and possess a personal an otherworldly stone type piece investment in quality. It’s likely the created, you now know who to call! innovative techniques, and mostly an cause costume heavy projects are In addition to her impressive irrepressible enthusiasm that grows filmed here. “The ones where you are list of film credits, Dana recently with every project. Dana sums it up creating worlds from scratch,” she added television to her repertoire best, “The movies I want to work on notes, are the ones that excite her. “I with her designs seen on shows are the movies I want to see - period. love creating original pieces for the like Glee, Nashville and Ray Donovan. Science Fiction, Action, Adventure, and characters born into these made-up Dana’s work represents the best Fantasy. I am a fan and so I want to do worlds.” of what a craftsperson can offer – the best job possible.” When asked about her favourite inherent talent, inspired designs, project, Dana answers “the next one.” explored materials, invention of

6 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

DRESSING A SAVAGE BEAST: A COSTUME BREAKDOWN STORY By Wolves Costume Designer Patrick Antosh, Assistant Costume Designer Kristen O’Reilly & Breakdown Artist Anita O’Toole

Jason Mamoa in Wolves

Breakdown is the art of giving a character and their history, you have We had a big curve ball thrown at garment character. Anita to be able to answer the questions, our department midway through It isn’t often that a script calls for why is it ripped or why is it dirty and the shoot. SPFX prosthetic suits brand new clothing. Breakdown can be how did it get there? Anita demonstrating the transition to as basic as running garments through Connor, our leader of the savage wolf form were built in LA and when the washing machine so they look like wolves was played by Jason Mamoa. they arrived in Toronto, 48 hours they’ve been worn before. Or, as in the Having previously worked on heavy before needing to be on camera, we case of Wolves, it’s just not that easy. costume driven projects like Game of discovered they were built to different The costumes had to illustrate life as Thrones and Conan the Barbarian, he proportions than we expected. New a savage animal. Literally. Wolf pack came to the table with strong ideas. costume multiples had to be built from members needed costumes that told He was extremely collaborative and we scratch overnight to accommodate tales of rooted ancestries, of kills, of came up with a unique look utilizing them! Kristen everyday life lived in the wild, and of materials like raw leathers and furs. Connor’s Carhartt pants (overalls battle scars earned throughout the The fabric went through extreme that were cut into pants) were very years of in-fighting. Kristen distressing and had to be matched difficult to breakdown because the The artistry of breakdown is one exactly (for multiple takes and stunts), brand caters to construction workers. of the most underrated skills. Most often by memory, as the originals were Their garments are sturdy and stain people think you just have to dirty already on location. Patrick resistant. A colour remover was first things and it’s done. But it takes If you have to breakdown multiples, used on the pants, then paint was a skilled artist with the ideas and it is easiest to do them all at once. But sprayed on them. Then, I sanded them skills (and tools and materials) to the challenge comes with having to to give them an aged finish. Really tell the right story. Deciding what a replicate once the original is no longer good breakdown begins with the fabric character wears is my challenge, but available. Generally, I recommend the and natural fibers are generally the I am fascinated watching a skilled KIS rule (keep it simple) – use notes easiest to work with. Anita breakdown artist methodically work to document your process and take Jason loved his custom distressed the life map of a character into a photos. But whenever possible have pants so much that he wore them garment. Patrick the original to copy, pictures don’t in a photo for Men’s Health U.K. even When doing breakdown you have tell the whole story and colours get crediting Anita and I for them in the to have an understanding of the distorted in photography. Anita byline. Patrick

continued on pg. 8 7 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

continued from pg. 7

One of our specialty pieces was a were broken away. I was lucky as I was leather vest built by Izzy Camilleri. We able to suggest split cow for the vest CAFTCADEMY 101 needed the vest in multiples in both construction, so a little petroleum gel human and wolf-suit proportions. We and makeup powder were all that it AN INTRODUCTION TO also needed an additional vest built needed for successful breakdown. COSTUMING IN and rigged for a tear-away gag – it AnitA had to sustain action throughout the As designer you have your own FILM & TELEVISION scene, but then be easily ripped apart integrity to protect, but in the end by an actor on cue. The built vest we are there to create the vision of the “For someone like myself, who is also had to accommodate quick and writer, director, producers and actors. just entering the wonderful world of easy re-attachment on set, in order No designer succeeds alone. wardrobe, CAFTCADEMY 101 was the to shoot multiple takes of the scene. I may design a costume, but from perfect crash course. It was fascinating Kristen there it goes through the hands of to learn about the intricacies of all the When doing a tear-away garment many skilled costumers from shopping different jobs and structure of the you have to keep in mind the before the materials for construction to a costume department. The chance to and after effect. Before, to make it look dusting of powder during finals on set. meet and ask questions of not only like it’s a solid garment and after, so Wolves was an amazing experience, my experienced and knowledgeable it actually looks torn. The breakdown it offered many challenges to our instructors (and hopefully future needs to be consistent in both. In department, but I had an excellent bosses!) but also my fellow participants this case we added extra pieces of crew who overcame every obstacle was absolutely invaluable. Nowhere leather that looked ripped that would with skill and determination. PAtricK else would you find all this information only be seen after basting stitches and networking in the same place, and I am so glad I had the chance to attend – can’t wait for CAFTCADEMY 202!” Samantha Rice Student

“Watching the interchange of information and the excitement as people in the industry share their knowledge is inspiring. Even though I’ve been in the industry for close to 20 Graphic Design years I learned a huge amount myself and CAFTCAD is the only organization solutions from I know that enables this to happen - such an inspiration!” beginning to end. Sarah Armstrong Instructor

8 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

approachable teachers you can encounter on set. She is always ready to teach those around her, pulling tips out of her sleeve that will assist anyone making their foray into an industry heavily influenced by professionalism and reputation. The passion that Peter Webster (Set Supervisor/Truck Supervisor) brings to his job as set supervisor inspires one to think about which role within the department best fits with your inherent skill set and interests. He demonstrates how every position has an impact on the success of the costume designer’s vision. Caftcademy 101 Weekend Instructors and Students One of my personal goals is to become a ‘fan-freaking-tastic’ designer so I heed the advice from THE WEEKEND than just creating a ‘pretty picture.’ Patrick Antosh (Wardrobe Assistant) HIGHLIGHTS In areas where a rookie may feel who explains how working through insecure about their ‘green spots’, By Karynah Zeh different positions of the department a cheerful Laurie Drew (Costume will help you understand the entire Having some experience in the Designer) reassures us that a costume process and will later costume department, I’m aware I newcomers fresh and positive energy influence and shed insight into your still want to grow, which is why I’m so is a valuable asset in an overworked work as a designer. grateful to the educators at CAFTCAD department. for sharing their expertise with us Liz Walter-Gregg (Being a Daily/ season after season. The following are Set Etiquette), is one of the most my golden nuggets from this season’s CAFTCADEMY 101 weekend seminars. Having admired Alex Kavanagh’s (who taught Intro to Costuming & The Workroom) work for years (but admittedly needing to use the fast- forward button occasionally on the scarier parts of the gory anthology just to study the art), it was fantastic to discover her costumer’s must-read list and discover what it takes to be considered a ‘true sewer.’ It’s easy to be fooled by the perky presence of stylists Alexis Honce and Loretta Chin (Commercial and Print Stylist), that the world of fashion is more glamour than grit. However, listening to them describe the business as a lifestyle, including personal sacrifices to stay relevant in a pop culture world, we begin to realize the styling world is a lot more complex

9 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

DO YOU EVER CHANGE YOUR CLOTHES? By Urs Dierker

This fall, TIFF Bell Lightbox unveils the David Cronenberg: Evolution exhibition in the HSBC Gallery. It will display costumes and props from various feature films of Canadian filmmaker David Cronenberg. Throughout his career David has worked with a great selection of costume designers such as Erla Gliserman on Rabid (1976), Olga Dimitrov on The Dead Zone (1983), Delphine White on Fast Company (1979), The Brood (1979), Scanners (1981) and Videodrome (1983). Since The Fly (1986) Denise Cronenberg has costume designed all his films to date. Her latest project with David is Map Photographer Liam Daniel© Recorded Picture Company 2011 of the Stars which is scheduled to be “A DANGEROUS METHOD” appears courtesy of released next year. Entertainment One, Sony Pictures Classics Inc David Cronenberg is well-known for his horror movies like Scanners, Videodrome and The Fly, as well as for Max: Brundle: his use of stunning and explicit special Then why did you wear that dress? Ordered from Einstein. This way I don’t effects and make-up. In his later Nikki: have to spend any thought on what I’m films, he shifted from the adaption Sorry? That dress. going to wear, I just grab the next set on the rack. of literature, like Naked Lunch, and M. Max: Butterfly to films about the foundation It’s very stimulating. And it’s red. By buying him new clothes she of violence in the lives of the main emotionalizes his character and takes Or in The Fly, where Brundle’s (Jeff protagonists as demonstrated in possession of him. She later loses it, Goldblum) selection of clothes makes The History of Violence and Eastern but her act connects both characters him a stereotypical scientist until Promise. “Cronenberg’s films equip the for the rest of the film. 1 Veronica (Geena Davis), his female human body with a will of its own.” For Cronenberg, directing is counterpart, buys him a new outfit. The human body becomes a matrix about creating the identities of his which can be altered by diseases or Veronica: characters. “When you are prepping mutations, extended with prophecies Do you ever change your clothes? for a movie with an actor there is a lot or camouflaged by costumes. Brundle: of directing that goes on before you Costume design is known as the art What? start shooting with them on camera. which works best when it merges with You’re saying what clothes, how is Veronica: the character and remains invisible. he shaving, can he shave, does he Your clothes, you’re always wearing the This is true in Cronenberg’s work shave? What is his hair is like? What same clothes. except on occasion when costumes are his shoes like? How does he Brundle: play a significant role in developing a walk? How does he speak? And that’s No, these are clean. I change my clothes character or supporting the story. For directing.”2 Costume design gives every day. example, the red dress of Nikki Brand the actor an essential part of their (Deborah Harry) in Videodrome. Veronica: identity, like Benno Levin’s towel in Five sets of exactly the same clothes? Cosmopolis. This simple towel, which

10 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

is so beautifully aged, functions like a shroud symbolizing his wish for death and destruction. In History of Violence, the shirts of Tom Stall, aka Joey Cusack (Viggo Mortensen), are like a red line which guides us through the movie. In three stages we see Tom Stall transforming back to Joey Cusack. The shirts are the tool used to camouflage his identity, to blend in and to become common. Later in the film his son Jack Stall (Ashton Holmes) rescues his father by shooting the killer Carl Fogarty (Ed Harris). In that scene Tom wears his shirt open with a white T-shirt underneath, like he has opened his armour. After Tom kills his brother Richie Cusack (William Hurt), he cleans himself in the lake and takes off his shirt - his camouflage - and returns to being Joey again. Costume design is an art which is closely connected to the bodies of the actors; the costumes define and shape the characters and give them security and a foundation. It helps the actor to Benno Levin (Paul Giamatti) cosmopolisthefilm.com bring his or her character to life. David Cronenberg: Evolution is part of The Cronenberg Project curated and hosted by TIFF Bell Lightbox. It includes the exhibition; a full retrospective of Cronenberg films; a digital extension of the exhibit called Body/Mind/Change (BMC); the fine art exhibition David Cronenberg: Transformation at the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (MOCCA) and TIFF’s Higher Learning program David Cronenberg: Virtual Exhibition. For more details visit the TIFF Bell Lightbox or go to tiff.net.

1. Ernest Mathijs, The Cinema of David Cronenberg: From Baron of Blood to Cultural Hero. UK: Wallflower Press, 2008. 2. 3sat. Interview with David Cronenberg. http:// www.3sat.de/mediathek/index.php?display=1&mode= play&obj=35323

11 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 SOME OF THE GREAT PRODUCTIONS THAT CAFTCAD MEMBERS HAVE WORKED ON

12 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION SOME OF THE GREAT PRODUCTIONS THAT CAFTCAD MEMBERS HAVE WORKED ON

13 RITA KOLEVA PORTFOLIO THE SHIFT & TOTAL RECALL PORTFOLIO

14 ANNE DIXON PORTFOLIO THE RIGHT KIND OF WRONG

Directed by Jeremiah Chechik Produced by Robert Lantos and Ari Lantos, Serendipity Point Films

15 LEA CARLSON Director: Michael Dowse Production Co.: No Trace Camping, PORTFOLIO Fastnet Films, Caramel Films THE F WORD Principal Cast: Daniel Radcliffe, Zoe Kazan

16 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones

THE SKINNY ON SKINNY BLACK LEATHER PANTS By Kim Harkness

It might be easy now, but a year ago, levels – unique style, fit, and durability, basements of second hand clothing in Toronto, when looking for a variety both in the wearing of, and to endure stores in Kensington market, and far of styles and sizes of skinny leather the intense breakdown process they too much time talking to Joe about pants for men and women for the would undergo). Negotiating with riffle holders at Al Flaherty’s Outdoor movie The Mortal Instruments: City of clothing companies involved dealing Store. In other words, working in Bones, it was a challenge. A number of with the studio and the clothing labels’ costumes is one part glam, one part designer labels were producing them public relations personnel. Often, sleuth, and three parts psychologist. (mostly for women), but paying close though not in this case, you need We’re in constant collaboration with to a thousand dollars a pair was out of to send a synopsis of the show for producers, directors, production the question. The cast was large. We the label to okay any said character managers, actors, public relations, needed multiples for most characters wearing their goods. We did that retailers, and our own team. because of stunts, rips and/or blood anyway, it’s good PR. There’s no such thing as a typical and just because leather stretches and When people think all I do is shop at day in the life of a costumer. Street tears. You always need multiples. the Room, dine at the Holt Renfrew level store shopping is only a part of The solution? Custom made garments Café and order online from Saks Fifth it. Global shopping is but a tap away. and augmenting existing pairs. We Avenue I usually say yes, I do. One Our job has been made that much worked out a percentage discount day out of twenty. I’ve also spent time easier and at the same time difficult from the lines we worked with. (There driving to all the Value Villages in the because though resources seem to is of course, a third option - working greater Toronto area, getting custom be within our reach, they don’t always with a cheaper made pair – but for size 20 wresting boots designed and arrive within our ridiculously tight various reasons that wasn’t going to shipped from Milton, Florida, which deadlines. Here’s a closer look, with work for this show. We needed the is no small feat (pun intended, but great omissions, at what it took to garments to perform on a number of seriously, try it), spent hours in the outfit a number of cast (nine leads and

continues on pg. 18 17 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

Once the goods arrived the cutter, sewers and breakdown artists - the magicians and sorcerers of the costume world - transformed leather skins and basic garments into character pieces. Magic happened. Everyone weighed in on how to achieve the final look. One breakdown product we used had sold out in North America. It had to be used sparingly, the next batch wasn’t available for months. Nothing was easy. Gersha: Can we get someone to build leather shin guards? This stud

The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones work is too time consuming for our team. continued from pg. 17 Buyer: Camden Town can do it. many more background performers) in can build one more for us in Uruguay, And so it goes. The adage “it takes a sleek, unique and often gadget laden the rest are in a warehouse in Illinois. village to raise a child” is very much leather ensembles. After solidifying (Said jacket arrived via India in the true in this world. It takes a team, the looks through discussions and end, with days to spare and wasn’t and outreach with octopus arms to illustrations with the director and exactly the same jacket. The lining produce a costume. producers Gersha Phillips, Costume was a different fabric, the shade of the Designer addressed the team. leather was off. Both the sewing and breakdown team had major work to Gersha: We need black leather. do it make it match). The CAFTCAD Reference Black leather pants for everyone. Library is Now Open! Off the rack, custom, let’s figure The CAFTCAD Reference Library Gersha: How’s our budget? out how many we need for each is an invaluable resource open to character. Let’s source here, New York, all members. Want to learn about Costume Supervisor: Do we really everywhere. the Amish? Leather jackets? The need ten of those jackets? Kennedys? With over 1500 book Phone calls were made, emails were titles spanning thousands of years sent. Samples arrived. Gersha and Assistant Costume of history and 500 magazines and Designer: Yes! Gersha: We need hardware. Buckles periodicals dating from the 1920s to present day, our library is the and D rings – notions for harnesses, Assistant Costume Designer: ideal place to research a specific weapons, gloves, wrist guards, shin We’ve bought the last of the stamped era, obtain general costume history guards and belts. Does anyone know leather from New York. Apparently knowledge or simply be inspired. where to get waxed linen? That’s a they have the same stock in the LA All library materials have been good look for someone. location. Shall we bring it in? donated by generous individuals in the costume design community Buyer: I’ve brought it in from Gersha: We have to. Let’s and may not be removed from the England before. do it. Anyone know any other library. A photocopier/scanner is leatherworkers and sewers that work available for use. Gersha: Great, get on it. How many with leather? We’re tight on time. more of these (holds up the chosen Library hours: Every Friday 10am until 4pm. one) leather jackets can we get? Location: 65 Heward Avenue Building C #223 Costume Supervisor: Let’s For more information call: 416 900 0955 or advertise through CAFTCAD. The word email: [email protected] Costume Supervisor: Seven. They spreads fast.

18 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

MINI CAFTCADEMY THE IMAGINATION BANK By Monique Prudhomme

Monique Prudhomme

Bitten’s costume department: Anya Taraboulsy, Samantha Rice, Each script is a unique story, Hanne Whitfield, Billie Blast, Joanna Syrokomla and Erika Larner creating it’s own world of characters, periods, motivations and visuals. SMALL TALK The locations, sets, lighting, they all work together to create a coherent WITH BITTEN’S COSTUME ensemble in which the characters DEPARTMENT move and live. The costume designer, being part of this group, has to find a CD Joanna Syrokomla, ACD Hanne Whitfield, SS Billie Blast, voice, an angle that will enrich the film. Anya Taraboulsy, TS Erika Larner & CA Samantha Rice Finding inspiration is very exciting. It leads to imprinting the characters in an efficient and clear way. To do that, What is your must-see film of the What film do you most want to see we have to create an “IMAGINATION summer? remade for audiences today? BANK” by looking at everything: Pacific Rim (made in Toronto and Harold and Maude – my coming of images, concepts and ideas. Travels, great wardrobe)! - Samantha age story - Billie Fine Arts, Contemporary Art, music, graphic novels, theater, opera, What fictional character would What book are you enjoying right photography (fashion, journalistic, you swap closets with in a second? now? artistic). Animal, vegetable, mineral; Emma Peel from the original 60s The Great Fire by Shirley Hazzard color combinations in nature, textures series The Avengers - Erika - Erika and tones of insect’s carapaces, rock, What celebrity would you most What is your go-to source for paper, earth. The Internet gives access like to have dinner with? creative inspiration in your daily to the contemporary world at large. life? I like books on everything: fabrics, Solonge Knowles - Hanne embroidery, accessories, tribes, Refinery 29 - Hanne What television show keeps you on foreign cultures, lost worlds, armies The Sartorialist – Erika the edge of your seat right now? and uniforms. The birds and the What do you look forward to most bees!!! Orange is the New Black. You’d think during TIFF season? The world of movie is entirely visual with everyone in beige scrubs you’d and sensory driven and through our lose the characters, but they’re so The CAFTCAD Celebrate Costumes own personal experience we can strong and shine through. I also love during TIFF party of course! - All express it in a genuine way. Jenn Rogein’s costume design. And dressing up for it! - Joanna - Joanna

19 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

WHO, WHAT, WHERE By Loretta Chin

CD Georgina Yarhi dresses her Rim directed by Guillermo del Toro, for the Key Textile Artist & Dyer whose “dream cast” of Gil Bellows, Ellen a Stratford production of The Who’s personal highlight is the final scene Burstyn, Donald Sutherland, Topher musical Tommy and travel to Saudi where T-shirts worn by Vin Diesel went Grace & Susan Sarandon in The Calling, Arabia for the Dubai Shopping Festival through four levels of ageing (10 shirts a Sony produced whodunit helmed by where she made stilt walker costumes per level) for a total of 40 T-shirts. Jason Stone. Georgina also designed for the first time! the quirky fantasy filmPatch Town. CD Monique Prudhomme, has Patti Henderson, a Gemini Award completed S1 of the A&E drama Bates For The Mortal Instruments: City of and Canadian Screen Award nominee, Motel and is now shooting S2 of the Bones, CD Gersha Phillips and ACD put a different look and feel to Curse “prequel” of the Alfred Hitchcock’s Kim Harkness costumed a modern of Chucky, the sixth installment of Don classic horror filmPsycho . She day NYC populated with vampires Mancini’s horror franchise about a continues to “create a contemporary & shadowhunters. Phillips also CD’d serial killer doll. Henderson worked look paying tribute to the film noir on Black Nativity, featuring Forest as CD on the Samuel L. Jackson style of the 40s and 50s.” Whitaker, Angela Bassett & Jennifer & Dominic Cooper crime thriller Hudson, based on a libretto by Reasonable Doubt. CD Patrick Antosh recently travelled Langston Hughes. Kim’s latest project to Mexico City for The Boy Who Smells is her newborn son Jackson. Shot in the UK, Scotland and Tenerife, Like Fish starring Zoë Kravitz, where he Fast and Furious 6 features work by dressed 20 synchronized swimmers Jennifer Kelly, owner of Kelly- Silvana Sacco. Working in remote in custom Esther William’s gold lame. Francis Costumes, recent projects locations with limited space and Patrick is currently prepping Remedy, include summer blockbuster Pacific supplies was admittedly a challenge Global’s new hospital comedy drama with ACD Kristen O’Reilly, who went straight from her gig as CD on Manhattan Undying to working in Manhattan on indie film Mania Days, starring Katie Holmes. Kristen CD’d the short filmWe Wanted More screening at TIFF 2013.

Deborah Burton, CD on Dame and the Game, a kids’ heist short set in 1992 values research in any project, noting a lot can happen in two decades.

Sarah Armstrong worked as CD on Sarah Polley’s autobiographical film, Stories We Tell, and as ACD on Canadian sci-fi flimThe Colony with Laurence Fishburne and Bill Paxton.

Joanna Syrokomla, recently CD’d the TV series Bitten that centers on Elana Michaels, “the world’s only female werewolf.” Bitten’s ALL-CAFTCAD crew includes ACD Hanne Whitfield,

20 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

SS Billie Blast, TS Erika Larner, Urs Dierker. The 40s period alien for The Grid recently CD’d the short CB Sarah Armstrong, Daily Anya drama developed by Gale Ann Hurd of film Flutter produced by Ugly Island Taraboulsy, & Costume Assisant the AMC hit Walking Dead, is helmed Films, before serving as CD on CBC’s Samantha Rice. by Quebec director Yves Simoneau. reality show Recipe to Riches, S3. As CD on Reckless an ABC pilot shot in Loretta also dressed dancers wearing Currently organizing the upcoming New Orleans, Antoinette worked with deer heads in period looks for My Steam on Queen Adam Smith’s third Director Martin Campbell and his team Prairie Home - a music doc on the Steampunk fair, the leather worker & where the project was treated like a Canadian singer Rae Spoon. lead armourer reflects on his work on feature with creative involvement from Pompeii, set in 79AD. Adam fit both all department heads. CD Delphine White lovingly recreates Keifer Sutherland and Kit Harington NYC circa 1864 in Copper, starring for leather Roman armour. Adam and Alex Kavanagh took on a Canadian Ato Essandoh, Tessa Thompson, & his team Peter Stuckless and Jenn film Skating to New York, shot in New Franka Potente. Costumes from the Burton had to combat the special effect Liskeard, north eastern Ontario. The first season were displayed in time volcanic ash that “sticks to everything.” CD admits that shooting on a frozen for the premiere at the Museum of lake in -42 degrees was hard on both Modern Art in NYC in August 2012. LA-based CD Antoinette Messam cast and crew. Alex also designed the She is currently the CD of the feature is currently working in Toronto on indie romantic comedy No Stranger to Poltergeist. the USA Network pilot Horizon with Love with Alison Brie, Colin Hanks, & ACD Jay Du Boisson, CS Nola Sheila McCarthy. Urs Dierker worked as Key Chaters, CB’s Shannon Pomakov Breakdown Artist for Copper Season 2. & Anita Bacic, BGC Jennifer Bunt, Stylist Loretta Chin, who writes He supervised the truck on the pilot ABGC Anya Taraboulsy, and TS “The Drop”, a weekly fashion column Horizon with SynOnSet. Currently he is working as Textile Artist on Poltergeist.

CD Anya Taraboulsy teamed up with ACD Bernadette Croft on Hallmark Channels Star Spangled Banners, Christmas With Tucker, & Be My Valentine. The CD’s work can also be seen in The White Buffalo, a comedic drama shot in Montreal and Val-David, Quebec.

CD Luis Sequeira has started the journey of Guillermo Del Toro’s The Strain with ACD Lindsay Jacobs, CS Suzanne Alpin, CB Nathalie Gysel, Cutter Tamiyo Tomihiro, 1st hand Wing Lee, Textile Artist Silvanna Sacco, BG Sarah Armstrong & BG assist Deborah Burton. Berman & Co. has recently acquired amazing stock from Luis’ previous show Carrie as well as recent films Still Seas, Resident Evil, and KickAss 1 & 2. The costume rental house is operated in partnership by CS Linda Petty and Debra Berman whose gig as national stylist for Rogers has her traveling from coast to coast.

21 SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

MEET A MEMBER DEE JARRETT-FISCH

Dee entered the film industry in 2010 after studying film at both Centennial College and Sheridan College since 2006. From there she interned (and then worked) for veteran costumer / set supervisor, Billie Blast, whom Dee counts as one of her mentors. Eager to learn, Dee spent time volunteering for the Ian Drummond Collection, Canadian Film Centre and CAFTCAD. Currently Dee is a permitee with NABET 700 CEP and IATSE 873. She works as a breakdown artist, truck supervisor and set supervisor with recent credits on shows like Manhattan Undying, SOS: Save Our Skins and now, on the truck for Lucky 7. Dee is often recognized for her attention to detail, her talent in breakdown / aging and her enthusiastic drive to continually develop her range of costuming skills, evident by Dee Jarrett-Fisch her recent choice to take up sewing and alterations in her time off. Her passion and dedication to the craft is visible through the work she puts out. Dee is a talented individual with a bright future ahead of her in this industry.

RICHARD CROSSMAN

Richard has been an actor on stage for over 50 years and in film and television for ten. Since 1998 he has been designing and manufacturing primarily historical costumes for fairs, festivals, education groups and interactive theatre. He has worked as designer, wardrobe supervisor, costume supervisor, and wardrobe assistant in various local theatre groups. Along the way he has assisted many costume departments as a daily on indie films. A year ago, long time friend Adam Smith suggested a transition into film and television costuming. Currently a permittee with NABET 700 CEP and working toward the same status with IATSE 873, Richard is hoping to get into workrooms and further his construction skills. Richard Crossman Richard would like to thank Jennifer Kelly for the recent opportunity to work with Kelly-Francis Costumes. In addition to historical costuming, he has begun replicating costumes from films like Alice in Wonderland, and Harry Potter. Training in leather work with Adam Smith, Richard now produces handcrafted leather masks for dance troupes, individual collectors, theatre and just plain fun.

CAFTCAD CALENDAR OF EVENTS

OCTOBER 19TH SEPTEMBER 11TH Fall Movie Wardrobe Sale DECEMBER 7TH CAFTCAD Celebrates Costumes during TIFF NOVEMBER 16TH & CAFTCAD’s Holiday Party Event at the Spoke Club NOVEMBER 17TH CAFTCADEMY Breakdown Course

22 ISSUE #5 FALL 2013 BESPOKE SPECIAL TIFF EDITION

CAFTCAD MEMBERS

______Jay Du Boisson Leonie Reid ______Marie Grogan-Hales Leslie Kavanagh HONORARY Nancy Granfield Lindsay Jacobs BUSINESS Juul Haalmeyer Roslyn Hanchard Madeline Brian Freda’s Martha Mann Sheila Pruden Nathalie Gysel IATSE 873 Olga Dimitrov Vickey Saito Nola Chaters Izzy Camilleri ______Nobis Inc. ______Ofelia Liu Richard Crossman Stunt Bumpers COSTUME DESIGNER STYLIST Ritta Koleva Tom’s Place Alex Kavanagh Alexis Honce Rosemary Della Serra ______Anne Dixon Alisa Krost Samantha Rice Antoinette Messam Loretta Chin Sandra Ardagna AFFILIATE Anya Taraboulsy Lori Gardner Sara Schilt Eve English Arthur Rowsell Shannon Pomakov Sheryl Willock Gwendolyn Anderson Brenda Broer Iris Simpson ______Sidney Sproule Debra Hanson Silvana Sacco Kathleen Pattinson Delphine White PROFESSIONAL Sophie Lennox-King Marion Ferneyhough Eydi Caines-Floyd Adam Smith Suzanne Aplin Patricia Thoun Georgina Yarhi Alexandra Boulitzi Tara McLeod Sally Han Joanna Syrokomla Alexandria Goldman Tamiyo Tomihiro ______Joyce Schure Amanda Bone Tish Northrup SATELLITE Kim Harkness Anita Bacic Urs Dierker Gersha Phillips Kristen O’Reilly Anita O’Toole Wing Lee Laura Montgomery Anna-Claude Biron Glenne Campbell ______Laurie Drew Billie Blast Monique Prudhomme Lea Carlson Dee Jarrett-Fisch COSTUME INDUSTRY Patricia Henderson Luis Sequeira Deborah Burton SUPPORT ______Marya Duplaga Donna Martin Berman and Co. Ltd. STUDENTS Melissa Stewart Elizabeth Marics Costume Period Rentals Ashley Lotecki Patrick Antosh Erika Larner Kelly-Francis Costumes Inc. Jessica Chambers Sarah Armstrong Hanne Whitfield Liberty Wardrobe Rental House Shelley Mansell Jane Flanders Martino Nguyen Designs ______Janice Skinner Wotever Inc. Jeana MacDougall ASSISTANT COSTUME Jennifer Bunt DESIGNER Julianna Clarke Anna Dal Farra Karynah Zeh Bernadette Croft Kimberley Stanley Ian Drummond

Impact Barriers� Dedicated Exclusively for� Stunt Professionals�

www.Stuntbumpers.com� Tel: (888) 299-2553� 4781 N. Congress Ave #266 Boynton Beach, FL 33426� MVP-TOMoreGenBespokeFP_07-13_- 2013-07-19 1:32 PM Page 1

SPECIAL TIFF EDITION BESPOKE ISSUE #5 FALL 2013

Proud to Pictured above is Tom Mihalik, with his son Tom Jr., both ready to serve Tom’syou at Tom’s Place. ThePlace store oﬀers the biggest selection of suits and serve the tailored men's wear in North America, all at great prices. Established in 1958, we have been serving the film and television industry for many years. Canadian Film & And remember Tom will always trims prices to fit your project's budget. Television Industry Please visit Tom’s Place, one of Toronto’s leading retailers for designer men’s business apparel. Conveniently located in Kensington Market.

416-596-0297 www.toms-place.com 190 Baldwin St. Kensington Market Just west of Spadina M-W 10-6 · Th-F 10-7 · Sat 9-6 · Sun 12-5

24 facebook.com/TomsPlaceTO