ESTMENTS A collection of historic through modern garments from across the diocese. Altar Guild Conference June 11, 2016 Calvary Episcopal Church Lombard, IL Hosted by the Episcopal Church Women of the Diocese of Chicago 2 Cope Silk, gold and silver thread embroidery Church of the Ascension, Chicago Tunicle (top) Chasuble Silk Stole Chasuble is the fiddleback form. Silk with embroidery Church of the Atonement, Church of the Ascension. Chicago Chicago 3 Cope Tunicle This cope has a full hood and Silk with gold embroidery tassel. Church of the Atonement, Church of the Ascension. Chicago Chicago Chasuble Dalmatic Fiddleback form, silk thistle Cut velvet, silk with brocade in front and back. brocade bands. Church of the Atonement, Church of the Atonement, Chicago Chicago 4 Chasuble Embellished with ivory and embroidery. Chasuble Dates from the 1930’s. Constructed of Japanese silk and given to the church by Church of the Ascension, Japanese members in the early Chicago 20th century. Church of the Ascension, Chicago Cope (right) Embellished with embroidery on the front and hood. The hood illustrates Ascension’s patron saint, St. Michael and the dragon. The faces of the figures are hand-painted on silk. Church of the Ascension, Chicago 5 Humeral Veil With stole Chasuble Church of Our Saviour, Elmhurst Belgian damask. The Rev. Ethan Jewett, personal collection, Grace, Chicago Chasuble (left) This garment was presented to The Rev. Kevin Caruso on the occasion of his ordination by his mentor The Rev. Sam Portaro, (Episcopal Chaplain to The University of Chicago and Director of Brent House from 1982 to 2004). The chasuble was designed by Rev. Portaro and created from one of his own vestments. The Rev. Kevin Caruso, personal collection, Trinity, Wheaton 6 Tunicle Cope (above) Chasuble Stole Reversible garments, silk. All five pieces are intended to be worn as shown in dark green in the early spring and late summer of “ordinary time”. Each vestments then reverses to a light green with the same peach and rose trim to be worn in the mid-summer. St. James Cathedral, Chicago Dalmatic 7 Chasuble Stoles Designed and constructed by Hand woven in Guatemala Gretchen Kenower (St. Mark’s, The Rev. James Lanning, Glen Ellyn) personal collection St. Mark’s, Glen Ellyn Hand stitched by the owner The Rev. James Lanning, Dalmatic personal collection St. James Cathedral, Chicago Trinity, Wheaton 8 Stole Deacon’s stole hand made in Peru St. Andrew-Pentecost, Evanston Stoles Philippines Church of the Incarnation, Bloomingdale 9 Tunicle & Deacon’s Stole These vestments were made by the owner including the Spade Stole & Roman embroidered matching stole. Surplice The Rev. Lee Gaede, Petit point shaped stole, personal collection stitched by The Rev. Canon Colin Stephenson. Late 1940’s. St. Andrew-Pentecost, Surplice is linen and lace. The Evanston lace is backed with black to highlight details. The Rev. Ethan Jewett, personal collection, Grace, Chicago Chasuble (right) Original design, machine embroidered. Designed and constructed by members of St. James’ parish. St. James, West Dundee 10 Stoles The band fabric is from a neck- Chasuble tie with personal meaning and Designed and constructed by applied to a plain red stole. Carol Todd (Church of The Rev. Donald Frye, St. Benedict, Bolingbrook) personal collection Church of St. Benedict, Bolingbrook Woven stripes with gold thread accents. Cope The Rev. Donald Frye, Crown of thorns detail personal collection St. James Cathedral, Chicago St. James, West Dundee 11 Stole Given in honor of the owner’s Stole participation in the Catechesis Silk, silk applique and beads. of the Good Shepherd. Designed and constructed by The Rev. Kevin Caruso Karen Worthington (Calvary, Personal collection Lombard) Trinity, Wheaton Trinity, Wheaton Chasuble (right) Silk, silk applique and beads. Designed and constructed by Karen Worthington (Calvary, Lombard) Calvary, Lombard 12 Stole Bands of felted mixed materials and hand dyed silk ornament this stole. The Rev. Kevin Caruso, Stole personal collection Designed and constructed by Gretchen Kenower (St. Mark’s, Trinity, Wheaton Glen Ellyn). St. Barnabas, Glen Ellyn Stole (right) This stole and matching vestments reflect the color bands of the windows behind the altar at Calvary Church. Designed and constructed by Gretchen Kenower (St. Mark, Glen Ellyn). Calvary, Lombard 13 N DISPLAY Chasuble Philippines—note the draped neck. Church of the Incarnation, Mitres Bloomingdale St. James Cathedral, Chicago Cope Hood (right) Silk with embroidered Diocese of Chicago shield. St. James Cathedral, Chicago 14 Cope Cope This beautiful cope is one of three given to the Diocese by This cope belongs to The Rt. the Holy Catholic Church of Rev. James W. Montgomery. It Japan. The copes match those is the cope he is wearing in his presented to the Archbishop official portrait. of Canterbury at the time of Church of the Atonement, the coronation of Queen Chicago Elizabeth II in 1953. St. James Cathedral, Chicago Stole (right) Silk with embroidered thistle pattern. Worn by The Rt. Rev. Henry John Whitehouse, Bishop of Illinois, 1852-1874 St. James Cathedral, Chicago 15 The Cope of Many Colors Silk Biblically inspired by the life of Joseph, son of Jacob, and the account of the many-colored coat given to him by his father, Ruth Silver designed and made this cope and mitre of many colors as a gift for Bishop Joseph Garang Atem, Renk Diocese. The morse on the cope is from an old cope in St. Michael’s collection. Because of the set’s silk construction, this cope and mitre are used on visits to Chicago. Ruth made Bishop Joseph another set that can easily be laundered for his use in Renk. Ruth has been a member of St. Michael’s, Barrington, since 1955. The Diocese of Renk, South Sudan, and the Diocese of Chicago have a Companion Diocese Relationship, begun in 2001. St. Michael, Barrington 16 LOSSARY Alb - is a white garment coming down to the ankles and is usually girdled with a cincture. It is meant to be worn over a cassock, but often is worn as a cassock-alb. Amice - The amice consists of a white cloth connected to two long ribbon-like attachments, by which it is fastened around the shoul- ders of the priest. While donning the amice, the priest first drapes the amice over his head (as with a hood), then lowers it to his neck, tying it around his torso. Biretta - is a square cap with three or four peaks, surmounted by a tuft. A priest wears an all-black cap with 3 peaks; the dean, canon and bishop wear a 4 peaked cap with red trim and tuft for the dean and purple for the canon and bishop. Cassock – The cassock is a single-breasted, ankle length black garment worn over street clothes by laity or over shirt and collar by clergy. Clergy have the option of wearing a sash when worn as outerwear (rather than under an alb). The buttons, piping and sash fringe can be colored according to office. Chasuble – is the outermost liturgical vestment worn by clergy for the celebration of the Eucharist. It is worn over the alb and usually over the stole. Cincture - a long, rope-like cord with tasseled or knotted ends, tied around the waist outside the alb. Cope - a long mantle or cloak, open in front and fastened at the breast with a band or clasp. It may be of any liturgical color. A cope may be worn by any rank of the clergy, and also by lay ministers in certain circumstances. If worn by a bishop, it is generally accompa- nied by a mitre. The clasp, which is often highly ornamented, is called a morse. 17 Dalmatic - is a knee length, wide-sleeved tunic, which is worn by a deacon. Like the chasuble, it is an outer vestment and is supposed to match the liturgical color of the day. It usually has bands across the body of the vestment, unlike the more plain tunicle. Humeral Veil - consists of a piece of cloth draped over the shoulders and down the front, normally of silk in the seasonal liturgical color or cloth of gold. At the ends there are sometimes pockets in the back for hands to go into so that the wearer can hold items without touching them with the hands. The humeral veil is used to cover the hands of the priests or deacons so they do not touch sacred vessels as a mark of respect. Maniple - is a liturgical vestment made of an embroidered band of silk or similar fabric that when worn hangs from the left arm. It often is the same construction as the stole and it is of the same liturgical color as the other vestments. Mitre - is the traditional, ceremonial head-dress of bishops. Stole - The stole is a band of colored cloth, usually silk, about three to four inches wide, whose ends may be straight or may broaden out. The center of the stole is worn around the back of the neck and the two ends hang down parallel to each other in front. The stole is often decorated in some way with a cross or some other significant religious design. It is often decorated with contrasting galloons (ornamental trim) and fringe is often applied to the ends of the stole. A deacon’s stole is longer and goes over the left shoulder across the chest to the right hip. It may fasten at the hip, or hang down the deacon’s left side, over the left shoulder, across the back loop- ing across the right hip , crossing the chest and finishing down the left back. Stoles generally follow the liturgical color of the day. Surplice - The surplice is in the form of a tunic of white linen or cotton fabric, reaching to the knees, with wide or moderately wide sleeves.