DUff GOLDMAN and WILLIE GOLDMAN

WILLIAM MORROW An Imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers

2 Contents

An Oral History of 00 Introduction 000 Adam Goldstein, Baker 00

Chapter 1: Me? A Cake Decorator? 000 Chapter 5: What’s It Like to Be on TV? 000 Frequently Asked Questions 00 Elena Fox, Decorator 00 Charm City Cakes Elementary, , Maryland 00 Ace of Cakes Facts 00 Geof Manthorne, Sous Chef 00 Sofi a Rodriguez, Decorator 00

Chapter 2: Beginning a Bakery 000 Chapter 6: The Business of Charm City Cakes 000 Mary Alice Fallon Yeskey, Manager 00 Jessica Curry and Adrienne Ruhf, Everything Else 00 Why Baltimore? 00 Katie Rose, Decorator 00 Erica Harrison, Decorator 00 Chapter 3: The Artistry of Charm City Cakes 000 The Production Staff on Ace of Cakes 00 Anna Ellison, Artistic Director 00 Sherri Chambers, Decorator 00 Mary Smith, Decorator 00 Mark Muller, Porter 00 The Bands of Charm City Cakes 00 Chapter 4: Why Cakes Suck 000 Lauren Friedman, Decorator 00 Katherine Hill, Decorator 00 Ace of Cakes Episode Guide 000 Ben Turner, Decorator 00 Credits and Acknowledgments 00

4 5 {2-page spread: Digital Montage Number 1: The Staff of Charm City Cakes [digital mon- CHARM CITY CAKES tages/staff of ccc]} The Staff of

6 7 chapter 1

Me? A cake decorator?

One look at me and it’s easy to see why no one would mistake me for a cake decorator. Mechanic, maybe. Plumber, more often than not. Graffi ti artist, pos- sibly. A bass player in a rock band—hope so. But how about someone whose job includes everything from painting several different shades of crimson on edible decorative fl owers to maintaining the plumbing of a 5200-square-foot bakery? A sales rep championing a product designed to be eaten? A deliveryman who drives from one coast to the other with an edible castle the size of Buckingham Palace in the back of his van? How about a mad scientist who knows how to adjust the ingredients just so on a cake in the sweltering miasma of Baltimore heat in August, or a holiday confection in the dry and cold of a Mid-Atlantic winter? (I most defi - nitely qualify as a weatherman, being intimately familiar with the humidity at any time of year and how it affects baked goods.) That’s okay, looks can be deceiving, and I’ve long grown to accept that I don’t fi t the mold. Screw molds. To hell with boundaries. Blast the limits. Forget established convention. And laws— well, okay, not all laws (we actually have a few in the bakery that are pretty useful at times). For the most part, the human mind has this thing—this need—to put things in drawers and jars and plastic containers and give them labels. If you’ve seen Ace of Cakes, you know I’m not about the conventional rules, but I’m also not about 8 9 look like I’ll be switching careers anytime have these amazing wool blankets she made dients. Among her vast collection of savory soon. Countless times I’ve been asked, “How for us before we were born). She was even dishes, a select few will stay with me forever. did you know this is what you wanted to do?” a bit of an entrepreneur, buying and selling Let’s forget cakes for a second—I need I consistently give the only answer I know: “It little properties all over town. She had her to tell you about Mamo’s strudel. I kid you just feels right…” own millinery in downtown Wichita called the not, this woman’s strudel tasted like God …And it still feels right. Even through the Hollywood Hat Shop (she thought the name had made it. The surprising thing about the soul-crushing stress of a cake falling apart, or sounded glamorous). strudel was the genius in the way she made the emergencies that arise when the pipes But it was in where the apple fi lling. Unlike most strudel, in which burst, the walk-in goes kaput, the roof leaks, the apples are uncooked, or the van gets a fl at, it still feels right. Even the day before she made through managing a team of highly creative, her strudel Mamo would smart individuals who can be just as tempes- make an apple marma- tuous as I am, to taking care of the dumpster lade to which she had bills and vehicle maintenance, it still feels added another one of her right. My mom always lectured my brother secret ingredients. As if that Nana breaking them just for the sake of it—and and me to trust our instincts—to listen to weren’t enough, Mamo’s certainly not for an “image.” I may have a those “voices,” no matter how out there they phyllo dough was inspired. reputation as a rule-breaker, but you’ll actu- might seem. I never really took that to heart She would make the dough ally fi nd no bigger proponent of a proper cu- until later in my life, but it’s advice I rely on from scratch, using clarifi ed linary education, like the one I was fortunate every day. butter, seasoning it just right enough to receive from the Culinary Institute (using yet another secret in- of America, and of course all the on-the-job gredient), and bake it to a experience and advice I’ve picked up over Before There Was Me fl awless buttery brown. Even the years from such mentors as Cindy Wolf, the occasional misstep resulted Todd English, Collette Peters, Thomas Keller, So, way before you and I were born, my great- in something equally delicious; and others. This is not to say you need access grandmother, Esther “Mamo” Steinberg, left when she’d have a bit of dough to a Culinary Institute-level education, or to the Ukraine at sixteen, passed through Ellis her cooking and baking skills merged with and fi lling left over, she would use them to apprentice under world-class chefs—not at Island, and kept on passing half way across artistry to create dishes that are, quite hon- make little individual strudels. She called all—but it is important to understand certain the until she settled herself in estly, legendary. One of the running jokes in them “bestards” in her Russian accent. My culinary fundamentals and the rules of food Wichita, Kansas. Let me type that again in my mom’s family is that we may not have a lot brother and I devoured them. before you can set about breaking them and case you missed it: Wichita, Kansas. That’s of money, but one day we’ll publish a book To a little kid of three or four, it was just experimenting on your own. right, a Russian Jew smack-dab in America’s fi lled with Mamo’s recipes and become mil- this side of heaven. It was rich, it was sweet, So, how exactly did I get here? I think ser- heartland. They grow wheat there. Lots of lionaires. Family legend held that Mamo was it was messy and buttery and crunchy. All that endipity did the job in the end, but the be- it. Flour comes from wheat. I think you know known to keep her most special recipes in a was bliss to my little palate, which salivated ginning of my culinary career simply involved where I’m going with this… safety deposit box along with her other cher- at even the mention of things like mac and my working my ass off in a variety of jobs (one Mamo (my mom named her that when ished valuables. She also had a fairly serious cheese, Dairy Queen, and gummy bears (still of my very fi rst jobs was at the McDonald’s in she was little) was an amazing woman—way on-going competition with her cousin Sissy. love the gummies, by the way). Hyannis, Massachusetts) until I started doing ahead of her time—a freethinker, and one of Their culinary rivalry was as fi erce as it was something that just worked for me. Before the most loving women on the planet. While I epic, and as a result we ate very well in our the bakery, I’d never had a job for more than have only brief memory fl ashes of her, there’s family. The Nana a year or two, but now I’m closing in on my one thing I can recall very clearly: Mamo was One of her particular cooking habits was fi rst decade (yikes, has it been that long?!) as a creator—everything from food to all kinds to put a bit of sugar in just about everything Mamo’s daughter, my grandmother Elinor owner of Charm City Cakes, and it doesn’t of stitchery and knitting (my brother and I still she made; it was just one of her secret ingre- Helitzer, inherited her mother’s eye for style. 10 11 One year when I was twelve or thirteen, Nana took me on a road trip from Kansas all The Artist and the way to New Mexico (long before there the Businessman: was a Starbucks in the Santa Fe Square). We Mom and Dad canvassed the region, driving out into the desert, taking pictures, checking stuff out, and eating some of the best cheese en- In the late 1940s, Nana gave birth to my chiladas I’ve ever had. One day we were mom, who is just the cutest little thing to driving by this pueblo, and as Nana had ever come out of Wichita, Kansas. And all her photo gear in the back seat and surprise surprise—behind that sweet little packed up tight in the trunk, she stopped face lurked artistic brilliance. Speaking of, the car, reached over, and grabbed my there’s two photos of the two of us at the crappy little plastic 35 mm throwaway same age where some people think we camera. She rolled down the window, look alike, but I’ll let you be the judge of leaned out, and took a picture. I got that: back home and my mom had the fi lm I look at what I do, and if I ever need Baby Me Nana devoted herself to refi ning her study of developed. When we got the pictures to put myself in my place, I look at my many different art media, and while she was back we sat down took look at them, and mom’s art, and I am humble. From mostly known for her enameling and silversmith- suddenly my mom gasped, holding up a the landscaping to the paint color ing, she also gained a reputation as a damned picture and yelling, “Duffy! This is amazing! choices, she turns her dwellings into good lithographer and, later in life, a photog- What made you take this picture?” Of course a place of refuge from a world that loves con- Once rapher. She even got my dentist grandfather it was Nana’s picture. The colors danced, the crete. One day she decided to paint a room she made a into the act by having him make her charms out light hit that pueblo, the shadows made by in the house plaid, and it was amazing. table-size greenhouse in min- of dental gold for her bracelet. I was especially the exposed logs were long and regular and My mom used to own a pottery studio, iature, complete with hinged copper doors fond of the one of the little toilet with the lid on at the right angle to offset the rest of boxy but now her art is glass; she makes windows (with stained glass windows) and working a hinge. If you happen to come across a book building, and the background was of moun- to make Tiffany proud. She creates mosaics, skylights. She broke up parquet fl ooring and on fi ne art enameling and silversmithing in the tains and sky. The picture was so alive that many without grout—as if she “paints” with made a wooden-slatted fl oor with tiny peb- 1950s and 60s, you might even fi nd her work in you could almost hear and smell every detail. little tiny pieces of glass. Sometimes she makes bles in between the slats. The little plants there. She was instrumental in opening my eyes I often wonder what that picture would have things one wouldn’t expect could or should inside were real and needed careful tending. to the world of art and nature, introducing me been like had she used her own fancy camera be made out of glass—much like we at Charm Mom now lives in Palm Springs with as a kid to a lot of the art and artists whose work with all the settings. I can’t imagine it could City Cakes make things that one might not my stepdad, Ronnie. On a recent visit I respect today. have been any better. expect could or should be made out of cake. to their house, I was delighted, but not Nana was known mostly for her impres- Nana had an eye, no doubt. She bought surprised, to fi nd a gazillion butter- sionistic images taken in the desert South- a Lichtenstein original long before he had fl ies decoupaged Jason Rogers, west. She loved architecture and would ex- become popular. She had an autographed amine it with her pictures. Light, shadow, and Annie Leibowitz poster of Keith Haring, she shapes endlessly fascinated her. She found owned Georgia O’Keeffe prints, and every- (left) Mom and I at the same age them everywhere, from buildings and alley- where she lived she made into a piece of art. ways to mountains and boulders—there was If she couldn’t have the art, she’d buy the (right) Me and Mom always something that caught her eye. Other books on the art she loved. She was a natu- than a posed snapshot of her parents back in ral master of Feng Shui, and I bet she never the 1940s, to my knowledge, she never took a heard the phrase. She just had the eye of an photo that contained a human being. artist. 12 13 even then a little light went on in my head. Hmm, I thought, maybe I could open up a cake shop and have enough time to be in band, go on tours, and make a living! Maybe. So I headed back to the hotel and checked out how much money the hotel was getting for the cakes I was making for them—and I thought, Geez! I could live off of a few cakes a year at that rate! Once again, serendipity stepped in. My parents called from Cape Cod; they had for whom perfection eaten the night before at a restaurant in in cookingcooking seemeseemedd to bbee seconsecondd Boston called Olives. Knowing it had to be because I got the job—just a few miles from in a band, and get some control over my life. nature. He was mymy go-togo-to guyguy when I was the Olives owned by the celebrated, award- where I’d grown up and gone to . So I moved back to Baltimore, got a job as a freaking out about broken-down walk-in winning chef Todd English, I told Mom the I told my chef at the Cascade, and he personal chef, and made enough money to freezer holding my 1200 sorbet napoleons. guy was a legend and that I’d kill to work for was really happy for me and told me to go start a website, get some business cards, and Jason, along with Clay and Steve from Olives him. She said the private dinner was given for it—and not to screw up this time (see a make cakes on the side. in D.C., was probably the best line cook I’ve by our cousin, and that he was friends with recurring theme in the advice?). So I packed enough time to be in band, go on tours, ever seen. He was a restaurant athlete who Todd, and he arranged to have an audition up all my stuff again and headed back to and make a living! Maybe. So I headed back was always laughing, no matter how far in the for me at the Olives in the Bellagio Hotel in the East Coast. Well, I made some amaz- to the hotel and checked out how much weeds he was. Las Vegas. ing friends there, and it was at Todd’s that I money the hotel was getting for the cakes I One day I got a call from Mary Alice back This audition consisted pretty much of really learned how to cook. A lot. Too much, was making for them--and I thought, Geez! in Maryland, and she asked if I would make a tossing me into the pastry at the Bellagio and in fact. I spent about a year there and felt I could live off of a few cakes a year at that wedding cake for her older brother, who hap- having me bake bread and pastries for Steve myself getting burned out fast. So this time rate! pened to be living in Denver at the time. Now, Mannino, the executive chef at Olives in Wash- I stuck to my guns and quit like a real man. Once again, serendipity stepped in. My not only was Neil Fallon Mary Alice’s brother, ington, D.C. He must have liked what I made, I realized I wanted to own my own shop, be parents called from Cape Cod; they had but he happens to be the lead singer of my eaten the night before at a restaurant in favorite band of all time, Clutch. So I in- Boston called Olives. Knowing it had to be stantly agreed and made his wedding cake. the Olives owned by the celebrated, award- It was a glorious six-tier cake with thousands winning chef Todd English, I told Mom the of hand-painted marzipan fl owers all over it. guy was a legend and that I’d kill to work for I brought the cake to a venue near Red Rocks him. She said the private dinner was given and set it up. Little did I know that I was about by our cousin, and that he was friends with to receive some major impetus in my career. Todd, and he arranged to have an audition The owner of the wedding venue freaked for me at the Olives in the Bellagio Hotel in out when he saw the cake, saying he’d never Las Vegas. seen one like it before. He asked me for my This audition consisted pretty much of card, and I told him I didn’t have one—I was a tossing me into the pastry at the Bellagio and pastry chef at a hotel in Vail. He then says that having me bake bread and pastries for Steve I should quit my job and open up my own Mannino, the executive chef at Olives in cake shop! Well, I was still getting my sea Washington, D.C. He must have liked what I legs and had no intention of starting my own made, because I got the job--just a few miles business, let alone be a cake decorator. But from where I’d grown up and gone to 14 With my dad at the Culinary Institute 15 the bakery business longer than a week if our ing our hands, is left on the cutting-room cakescak didn’t actually taste good? By the time fl oor. But for the record: yes, we wash our yoyouu read this, one in every twelve homes in hands… AmAmerica will have tasted a Charm City Cake- …sometimes even once a week! --withw numbers like those, it’s hard to imagine ththey wouldn’t taste good. Q: Can I work there? Okay, so we’re exaggerating on the A: No. ststats, but truth be told, cake itself is kind oof hard to screw up--it’s just fl our, sugar, Q: Do you have an open internship butter,b and eggs. Of course we do make program? morem than forty-fi ve different fl avors, which A: Not really. While we’ve had a few we’rewe’ adding to all the time—take a look at interns in the past, we currently don’t thethe list on page 000. Our cakes have a layer have an open internship program. of buttercream, on top of which is placed a Frequently Asked decorative layer of fondant--which can be Q: I think you suck and I don’t like your eaten or not. While it’s hard to convey fl avor show. Questions without handing you a piece of cake, let’s 100 cakes a month—all edible—and maybe A: Take it up with the president of take our Bananas Foster cake as an example. one or two display cakes for (usually) a cor- show business. Imagine a smoother, silkier version of Nutella, porate client. So, no, even though you may Q: Why isn’t this a cookbook? Where are with bits of fresh sautéed bananas mixed in- have seen one or two on TV, our cakes are Q: Can I have an autograph? the recipes? -that’s what a Charm City Cakes cake tastes defi nitely not “mostly Styrofoam.” A: Sure, send us an email. A: This is a book about us doing things in like. One bite and you’ll see the face of God. a way that we have found works. You can just Q: What are marshmallow treats used Q: Is working there really your job? use your favorite cake recipe or even a cake Q: What is the deal with fondant? for? A: Yes it is. mix and experiment with it. There are plenty A: While fondant is edible, the point isn’t to A: The treats are a very stable, sculptable of books out there that can tell you how to put it in your mouth. Our cakes are designed edible material that are great for making parts Q: Do you ship your cakes? bake a cake; we’re not reinventing the wheel, so that the fondant seals in the freshness and of cakes that may not be as structurally sound A: We tried. Once. Epic fail. Never again. we’re just playing with our food. preserves the cake and icing underneath. otherwise. They’re an easy way to add mass Think of fondant as a thick, dense coating and volume without the support needed for Q: Can I come visit the bakery? Q: How much do your cakes cost? that’s meant to be peeled like a banana; you the heavier weight of cake. A: While we love to have visitors, be-- A: How much you got? You can’t put a want what’s underneath. That’s not to say you tween decorating the cakes and producing price on happiness. can’t eat it--it’s just that it’s pure sugar. Q: How come we never see you guys wash the show, it’s a little too crowded inside to your hands on the show? Q: What do they taste like? Q: Why are your cakes mostly Styrofoam? A: The sink broke a few years ago and we A: Dirt. A: This is another misconception, thanks just haven’t had time to fi x it. to the magic of TV and the Internet. Like most Q: No, seriously—I mean, your cakes look bakeries, we have a display rack that high- Q: No, really, how come we never see you good, but I bet they don’t taste good. lights cakes for prospective clients. We also guys wash your hands on the show? A: In all honesty, we get this one a lot, create display cakes when a client says they’d A: You’re not going to let up, are you? It’s especially on the Internet--where people like to be able to show a cake for a longer a simple matter of editorial direction. The just love to throw up all kinds of snarky com- period of time, something that wouldn’t work Ace of Cakes production team fi lms more ments. First off, forget the TV show—do you with edible material that would spoil. On av- than 120 hours of footage for a single 22-min- really think Charm City Cakes would be in erage, Charm City Cakes creates more than ute episode--so the boring stuff, like us wash- 16 17 cclass at Michael’s or Jo-Anne’s, which can hhelp get you started on the path to becom- iing a decorator. CHARM CITY CAKES ELEMENTARY Be creative. Be artistic. Be imaginative. AAnd be yourself. BALTIMORE, MARYLAND Q:Q Are there any schools you recom- mmend? A: While it would be really hard for us to pplay favorites, there are several culinary and aart schools that can serve as great launching ppads for careers in the culinary arts as well as aart in general. Some of the schools we’ve at- This is a book about us doing things in a tended include the University of Maryland, way that we have found works. You can just Culinary Institute of America, Maryland Insti- use your favorite cake recipe or even a cake tute College of Art (MICA), the Corcoran Col- Elena Fox Katherine Hill Mary Alice Fallon Yeskey Adam Goldstein mix and experiment with it. There are plenty lege of Art + Design, and many, many, others. of books out there that can tell you how to The simple truth is that there’s no one path— bake a cake; we’re not reinventing the wheel, culinary schools and colleges aren’t the only we’re just playing with our food. way into a career. With no connections in the If you’re looking for cake technique info, industry, my brother thought the only way he check out the books Cakewalk by Marga- could get a job in Hollywood was through fi lm ret Braun, Cakes to Dream On by Colette school. He got an internship instead, and has Peters, and Larry Powell’s Big Book of Cake been a producer ever since. My advice: work Decorating. The web forums at sugarbuzz. in a kitchen and learn all the proper jobs, all Sophia Rodriguez Sherrie Chambers Jessica Curry us and cakecentral.com are also wonderful the terminology. Try working under several resources. We also suggest taking a Wilton chefs before attending culinary school. While scschools are fantastic, there’s no ssubstitute for real-world on- ththe-job training.

Q:Q Why is there no actual fofood at the ? I meanm seriously, what’s up Adrienne Ruhf Benjamin Turner Mary Smith Erica Harrison wwithit that? A: Excellent question—email [email protected]

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18 19 Geof Manthorne Elena Fox Decorator

Hometown: Babylon, New York Education: BFA in graphic design from SUNY New Paltz, New York Favorite hobbies: playing music, running, collecting toys, spoiling my cat rotten Fun fact: I can walk on my hands. Favorite movie: Carrie, Star Wars: Episodes IV, V, VI, Raising Arizona, most comedies from the 1980s with preposterous plots Favorite books: anything by Christopher Moore, most things by Kurt Vonnegut, Maus 1 and Maus 2 by Art Spiegelman, The Very Hungry Caterpillar by Eric Carle Favorite music: everything from Patsy Cline to Van Halen, but The Beatles, The Kinks, The Pixies, and Pavement are among anything my top faveson a barbecue in Favorite non-dessert dish to create or eat: the summertime

In her own words:

I’m the youngest of four children and grew up in the seafaring town of Babylon, on the south shore of Long Island, New York. We lived in a small house positioned snugly between two boatyards on a street that ended with a canal. My mother is an elementary school art teacher and my father builds machin- ery that I’ve always liked to refer to as his robots. My parents are some of the biggest artistic infl uences in my life; my mom is also a painter. Realizing that I loved to draw and paint from a very young age, she was 20 21 Now of course I have to fi gure out how I’m going to IP “Look around you for inspiration build it. I decide T and tools. Items in your kitchen can be used as what are the impor- molds to create interesting shapes.” tant aspects, the de- —GEOF tails that make that building or vehicle The opportunities presented to us have unique, as often Building models is a time-consuming job been satisfying and unexpected, and the it’s the smallest de- that requires accuracy and meticulousness, kinds of affairs and cakes we’ve worked on ttails that draw people in. which naturally can lend itself to some long have been more and more gratifying. We’ve OOne of the many things days. Luckily my model-building background been invited to participate in some fantastic I learned making archi- prepared me for life in the bakery, as it’s a events that do not fall in line with a cake dec- ttectural models was the time-consuming job that requires accuracy orator’s job decription. We’ve voiced charac- importance of detail. No and meticulousness. ters on KingKing ofof thethe HiHill,ll, visitedviisiited Jay Leno at TheThe matter how late or how long we’d been TonightTonight Show,Show, gonegone place most civilians don’t working, we’d always take the time to add getget to go, and me mett some of ouourr the smallest things: miniature people and cars, awnings, streetlights, shrubbery, and fl owers. These little touches really make fafavoritevorite sport stars, actorsactors,, and musicians. a project come alive, whether it’s an archi- ThThisis chapter of my life has to end some- tectural model or a cake I often recall those time. When does it eend—after Ace of rushed hours when we’re fi nishing a big CaCakekes? Ace of CCakes:akkes:k The Musical? order, and while the cake itself is done, we’re Ace of CakCakes:ess: ThThee AnAnimatedimated all huddled around it, decorating the base SeSeries?ries? AcAcece of Cakes on with sidewalks or waves or trees. When you IcIce?e? The AAce of Cakes Re- hear things like, “Oh look, there’s the foun- ununionion ToTour?ur? That’s where it tain that’s in the courtyard!,” you know you’ve Once I made the transition from models alalll enends.ds. done your best to make a client happy. to cake and learned the new materials, I was able to use those prior skills for the new job of cake decorating. Thinking back, I’m amazed

TIP“If you have the time, think through at some of the weeks we survived with such the process of decorating the cake. Your cake a small crew—there was a time when just will be cleaner and fresher if well planned.” four of us completed over fi fty cakes in one —GEOF week—but back then we certainly had many fewer distractions…

The Futurere

22 23 and cheese and say hi to friends at one Why Baltimore? of Baltimore’s outdoor farmer’s markets. Catch a Broadway show at the beautifully So why Charm City Cakes? Why not Neww restored Hippodrome theater York or Chicago or Philly or D.C.? Becausee See the latest offering out of Cannes at Baltimore rules. Our slogan is “The Greatestst the Charles Theater—and have tapas City in America,” and we’re not kidding. Our eans love variety, and we can certainly provide right next door town is the best. You know it, I know it, and that. From really pretty, elegant wedding cakes Catch my band and many other awesome the American people know it. to crazy cakes that defy gravity, insurance regu- indie acts at the Ottobar, our rock and The thing about Baltimore is that it is un- lations, and sometimes the law. Baltimore is not roll haven pretentious. It’s not all frilly and super-cool xenophobic. A bakery like mine wouldn’t last See the world’s largest and subject to the whims of what is “in.” Balti- in Washington, DC, where most people have a Hear the amazing classical music stu- trashcan on Russell street. more likes what it likes, and really doesn’t care very clear idea of what a cake should look like. dents practicing at the Peabody Institute Lose count of Michaels what other people think. It’s a little One trip to Baltimore neighborhoods such as Stop for a cocktail at Club Charles, Phelps’ Gold Medals Hamden, Mt. Vernon, Waverly, the Harbor, where both Lenny Bruce and Mary Alice Head up to Hamden and met their spouses get some awesome vintage See the beautiful brownstones of Charles clothes, vintage food, and Village the ultra super cool stuff at Stroll through Johns Hopkins campus Atomic Books (where you Pick up a DVD categorized by director at can buy this book) Video Americaine See a bunch of tattooed Stop by the Baltimore Museum of Art urban hipsters doing synchronized swim- and see one of the fi nest collections on ming at Fluid Movement the East Coast Marvel at the Kinetic Sculpture Head over to the wonderfully retro Bal- Race and see some really awesome timore Zoo and see baby elephants and contemporary art at the American rough around the edges, sure, but the heart Federal Hill, Canton, Charles Village, Reming- our thriving community of Panamanian Visionary Art Museum of Baltimore is strong, alive, and very unique. ton, Rolland Park, Guilford, and/or Govanstown golden frogs See the National Great Blacks in Wax I like to think of Baltimore as the SoHo of the and you’ll see Baltimore loves the wacky, and Hit up the Frisbee golf course in Druid Museum on North Ave beats, not the new, super hip SoHo, but the Baltimore loves its art. Hill Park Stop by the Babe Ruth Museum downtown SoHo where anything goes and everything is In one Saturday afternoon in Baltimore, I Pay your respects to Edgar Allen Poe at Send my brother out for mind-blowing judged on merit, not by what everyone else can… Westminster Hall sandwiches at Isabella’s in Little Italy. thinks. This is a city of individuals, and you See the U.S.S Constitution and the place See a game at the most beautiful sta- Experience the best Indian food on the can see it in Baltimore’s artists, actors, musi- where “The Star Spangled Banner” was dium in the world, Camden Yards planet at the Ambassador Dining Room cians, local heroes, and, yes, bakeries. penned Check out the fi erce derby ladies of the Take a picture outside of Charm City I didn’t grow up here, but I did go to college See sharks and the rainforest at the Balti- Charm City Rollergirls Cakes! here and made some really good friends in that more Aquarium See where we kicked some British ass, I think John Waters (proud citizen of Balti- four years. Well, I left, and then I came back. Buy some awesome indie rock at Sound- again, at Fort McHenry more) put it best when he was describing the Some of my friends were still here, some had garden in Fell’s Point Chow down on some incredible BBQ at difference between Baltimore and New York: moved away, and some I had yet to meet. But Eat world-famous crab cakes from Chaps and Andy Nelson’s “In New York, the people are weird and they slowly I built my home and my bakery in Balti- Faidley’s in Lexington Market See the Patterson Park Pagoda, de- know it, in Baltimore people are weird and more. I think the reason we’ve done so well here See art from all over the world and from signed by Charles LaTrobe is that Baltimore loves different stuff. Baltimor- many different eras at the Walters Gallery Buy some top-quality produce, seafood, 24 25 The 49 Flavors of Charm City Cakes Creativity Begets Creativity

I bought this great old building with lots almondalmond chocolatechocolate chchipip mmuffiuffi n pepeanuta butter cup and lots of character in the old Remington almond amaretto cream chocolate espresso pear compote and ginger apples and cinnamon chocolate mint pear spice section of Baltimore and let the contrac- banana caramel chocolate orange pecan pie tors have at it. It used to be bananas foster chocolate raspberry pineapple coconut a cchurch,h so the bones were beurre noisette dulce de leche pumpkin and cinnamon therthere. Knowing we wanted dent in my black forest egg nog pumpkin chocolate chip I’m pretty confi (an(andd needed) a happy, cheer- blackberry sour cream ginger and green tea red velvet ability to make cool cakes, ffulul environment, we painted blueberry muffi n Italian orange and vanilla s’mores things people haven’t seen thethe walls some great shades cicialal tteam.eam brownie lemon strawberry shortcake before. of happy, cheerful, yet Never one to want to be bored with the butterscotch walnut lemon curd and berries tiramisu —DUFF soothingso colors. We saved safe, tried and true, I always look for new cardamom and pistachio lemon poppyseed white theth character of the origi- fresh approaches to cake decorating. I’ve Caribbean black cake marble white chocolate nal building as much as pos- blown ’em up, hung ’em up, lit them up, mo- carrot mudslide raspberry ssible,ible, ddownown to the rich deep-honey torized ’em and electrifi ed ’em. There’s close cherry and almonalmondd orange and ginger yellow chchocolateocolate peaches and cream yellow with chocolate wood fl ooring. The bakery is much more of to nothing we can’t do with cake, and there’s chocolate chercherryry peanut butter and jelly buttercream an art studio than it is a traditional bakery, certainly nothing we won’t try. I’m always and that’s where and why the magic happens. learning, always teaching, always reaching, We’ve got all kinds of music going on, and and always expanding—by observing and newnew for the cake tthathat we like to think of them asa “our” cakes. They keeping an open mind, I’m always ready to I can integrate intointoo the maymay not have asked fforor llightsi to fl ash, or for accept a challenge and interpret anything I originaloriginal idea. I don’t worry thingsthings to move or to spispinn around, but if we see into cake design. We must and do keep ababoutout sticking ttoo my think it will be a better cakeca design, we’ll do our work fresh, fun, and exciting. plplanan so strictly, becausebecaause I it.it. While we’re delighteddelighted bby the fact that most What also keeps me creative and moti- knknowow that if I get ana in- of our clients give us ffreeree rein to push the en- vated, besides the limitless creative ideas and spspiredpired idea while work-w velopes, it’s never a requirement.requ There’s a the challenge to make cakes with the “wow iningg on it, I can mmake differencedifference between doindoingg it for its own sake factor,” is the pure and simple fun and inner an iimmediatemmediate aadjust-djust- andand doing it when it’s right.righ satisfaction it gives me to bring joy to so many mement.nt. I just add it, people. My customers must never be disap- subtract it, changchangee it. pointed. It’s up to me to see to that. There’s ReRemember,mem mber, no llinesinnes Making It HHappen nothing like watching the face of a cake re- ststoppingopo ping mme.e. cipient when they fi rst see their cake. I can tell I get stoked aandndn WhenWhen I fi rst take on a pparticular new cake immediately if they love it, and I love it when wiwilllll spend inoinordi-rddi- challenge,challenge, I begin by learninglearn about my cake. they do. I couldn’t do this for long if I didn’t nanatete amounts ofo It wasn’t that longlong aagogo ththata Charm City Cakes lots of bright, natural light. Again, I believe get that payoff. No amount of money can time and eneenergyrggy consistedconsisted of ““threethree ffriendsriend who listen to a lot that keeping the senses stimulated in a posi- buy that kind of satisfaction. It’s what makes on the smallestsmallesst of musicmusic aandnd eeatat a llotot ooff ssushi.” We eat much tive manner is the best incubator for creative me excited by the creative process – thinking dedetail,tail, just ttoo lessless sushi and listen to mmusic less frequently activity. We play off each other, too. No room as I go while working on a planned design; gegett it right. SuSureree (since(since it’s prprohibitedohibited whiwhile fi lming), and are for competition at Charm City Cakes. We’re getting even more excited in the middle of a they’re the clcli-i-- nownow fi fteenfteen or ssoo ststaffaff mmembers. And now very much unique individuals on a very spe- project because I just thought of something enent’st’s cakes, bbututt strangers talk to me--and not because they 26 27 —not to mention his amazing vision and technique in cakes. An Oral History of ACE OF CAKES Ilch: We’d set out to do an ad campaign for and needed someone to make us some outrageous cakes. Programming recommended a In an exclusive conversation, we talk to the following Food Network executives: distinctive character in the show, Duff Goldman. Duff actually ended up making two cakes, one of styrofoam and one real. He did more than make the cakes—he helped us make the ad come to life. Krueger: I was in Phoenix, where we were shooting several episodes of Food Net- work Challenge. Duff and Geof were Excitement served nightly

Brook Johnson, competing in the mystery cake challenge Susie Fogelson, President, Food Allison Page, Food Network Challenge & Vice President, Carrie Welch, and were working on a hilarious cake that Network Vice President, CharlesCharles NoNordlander,rdlander, Sundays & Thursdays Programming Marketing and Vice President, Vice President, eventually fell apart. Instead of leaving an Brand Strategy Public Relations Program Development empty table, Duff made a big showing of ©2006 Television Food Network, G.P. All rights reserved. WAY MORE THAN COOKING

carrying a small fondant fi sh to the table 50132_FN_OOH_032.indd 1 12/15/05 2:18:38 PM as their fi nished product, and the whole Johnson:Jh I likliked d the h ididea. WWe hhad d wanted d to spectacle made me laugh so hard I had do a culinary docu-soap but had never tears in my eyes. found the right environment. Duff’s rock Fogelson: Duff was made for reality TV. He and roll bakery seemed like it might just and the crew are wildly entertaining char- the environment we had been looking acters and some of the best reality TV out for. One of the architectural advantages is Katie Ilch, Katie Ilch, Brian Lando, Consumer Market- there. Geof and Mary Alice are just gold. BobBob Tuschman,Tuschman, Consumer Market- that there was some inherent drama about Director, ing Director, Senior Vice Presi- ing Director, When Food Network was fi rst presented Programming Advertising and how and when and if the super elaborate dent, Programming Advertising and Branding and Production Branding with the idea that a docu-soap centered cakes would be successfully completed. around cake decorating would be a good Another plus was that cakes are probably Here, in the their own words, is the story of how Ace of Cakes got on to Food Network. match for the network, the reactions the most visually exciting element in the After Food Network was turned on to Duff by fellow cake decorator Colette Peters, he fi rst ranged from enthusiasm to hesitation. world of food, so this was a great subject popped up as a competitor on Food Network Challenge. Nordlander: Well, I had come to Food Net- for television. work from A&E, where we were having a Welch: I thought, great! Then, wow, this Page: I met Duff in Sea Island, Georgia, when we were fi lming Food Network Challenge in 2005. lot of success with character-driven reality is going to be really different for Food Net- The episode was the “Spooky Cake and Candy Cook-off,” and Duff defi nitely stood out shows like Growing Up Gotti and Dog, the work. We had just started to get into the among the competitors. He didn’t look or sound like any cake baker I’d ever met. My fi rst Bounty Hunter. I loved the idea of bring- reality realm with The Next Food Network thought was that this guy looked tough, but then he opened his mouth and that character- ing that kind of series to Food Network, Star around that time, so it was really ex- istic, disarming laugh came out, and I knew he was a softie on the inside. He was fi lled with especially since one of the main reasons citing to know we would go even further. this spirit of fun, and it was infectious! I was hired was to develop new program- Page: My fi rst thought was: that’s a show I Johnson: I had seen Duff on Food Network Challenge, and thought he was an unusual look- ming that was different from traditional would love for Food Network to do, and ing and unusually engaging personality. He was so far outside of what you would normally shows on the channel. And a reality series that I would personally love to watch. expect a baker to look like that I was very struck by him on that series. starring Duff was defi nitely not going to Tuschman: I thought if anyone could pull off Tuschman: Duff was instantly memorable – his rocker look, his offbeat style, his slacker humor be traditional! a reality series set in a bake shop, it was 28 29 Duff Goldman. I always say, “Duff marches EPISODE Guide ROMMEL and JESSICA LORIA Food Network presents in association with , Inc. ACE OF CAKES

Created by: Willie Goldman, Dana Leiken Richards, Lauren Lexton, and Tom Rogan Executive Producers: Lauren Lexton, Tom Rogan, Kelly McPherson, Jeanne Begley I fi rst met Rommel in the autumn of 2006 Co-Executive Producers: Willie Goldman and Dana Leiken Richards during his design appointment, when he Co-Executive Producer (Episodes 312, 313, 401-411): Jack Tarantino explained that he wanted a cake to pro- Cycle 1: Season 1 (6 episodes) pose to his girlfriend, Jessica. Wedding Cycle 2: Season 2 (13 episodes) cakes: we do plenty of those. But a pro- Cycle 3: Season 3 (13 episodes) and Season 4 (13 episodes) posal cake? That was a new one. But I liked Cycle 4: Season 5 (13 episodes) and Season 6 (13 episodes) Season 6 (13 episodes) and Season 7 (13 episodes) the idea--and besides, who am I to stand Cycle 5: in the way of true love? Rommel described A note on our writers: Nothing on Ace of Cakes is scripted. Working with the show’s editors, the how he wanted the cake to be a “happily writers watch all the footage from the fi eld, and generate a technical script in reverse that’s ever after” scene: a cute little house with used to create narrative “storylines.” a picket fence, the two of them sitting out front, all smiles, with their dog. He wanted to incorporate the engagement ring into the cake, so we came up with the idea for him to hang it from a lamppost on the side- SEASON ONE to cross the race track and a sea of partying “Well, we kind of specialize in not small walk outside the house. college kids to complete the delivery. and not simple.” Triple Crown Cake —MARY ALICE As this was Charm City Cakes’ fi rst en- Featured cakes: Preakness, Jeep, Dental School Graduation, Fish-in-a-Basket, Sweet gagement cake (since then a few more “Real men prefer caulk.” Production #: DB101 Sixteen, Cell Phone, and Black Belt have followed), naturally the entire staff was Original air date: August 17, 2006 —DUFF Special appearance: Lt. Gov. Michael very excited about the prospect of being a part of Rommel’s proposal. To make it even more Writer: Miriam Leffert Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels Steele interesting, I decided to surprise Rommel and wire the lamppost so it would actually light up. Hell Week Editors: Grayce Lackland, Matthew Monte Decorative techniques: Base construction, The day Rommel came to the bakery to pick up the cake, he was visibly nervous, but was modeling chocolate, dowel insertion, gum Production #: DB102 defi nitely pretty stoked that we had illuminated the light. After he took the cake home, we all Chef Duff Goldman, proprietor, owner, and paste seashells and black-eyed Susans, Original air date: August 31, 2006 waited anxiously to hear word of how the night went. The next morning, Mary Alice received an operator of Charm City Cakes, explains graham cracker crumbs for sand, piping, Writer: Dustin Rubin that the largest order of the week is a fi fty- airbrushing email with the subject line, “SHE SAID YES!” Rommel included a great photo of a very teary- pound masterpiece for Baltimore’s Preak- Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels eyed Jessica holding up her ringed hand in front of the cake. ness horse race. Later in the day, Duff’s old Featured organizations: Pimlico Race Editors: Jeanette Christensen, Grayce When time came for the couple to design their wedding cake, of course the bakery was friend stops by the bakery to select her Track Lackland, Matthew Monte wedding cake: a clean and classy beach Fun facts: While this was the fi rst episode thrilled to have them back (I had promised Rommel a discount if she accepted). As the couple With just fi ve days to complete twenty- motif, complete with edible sand and sea- to air, portions of episode 105 were fi rst wanted to include their alma mater, Georgetown University, with their cake design, they chose seven cakes, there’s a whirlwind of activity shells. Duff gets to work building the scale shot in Los Angeles and edited into that at Charm City Cakes. Geof and Richard a four-tier asymmetrical cake with a second cake that looked like the Bulldog mascot biting into model base of the cake with real wood and episode. construct a cake in the form of a tequila the fi rst cake. Both cakes came out fantastically, and everyone was thrilled to see pictures from rope using an assortment of power tools. bottle out of Krispy cereal treats give the With less than twenty-four hours to com- “Technically I am the executive sous chef the wedding afterward. Now we’re anxiously awaiting a call to help out with a baby shower… cake added stability. The most challeng- plete the cake for the horse race, Duff pulls of Charm City Cakes. This is a title that ing cake is modeled after a client’s German an all-nighter with sous chef Geof, loads the Duff gave me; I don’t really know what it Shepherd and will require a complex multi- cake into his delivery van, and races across means.” tiered base/skeleton out of wood and town to the Pimlico race track, just in time —GEOF 32 33 metal. Once Sherri has carved stacked and design a cake in the form of her mother’s “Just checking on my investment in culi- logo was made by Duff’s mother, Jackie, an “We call a turn like this a cake killer.” “She’s taking our baking for granite.” iced sheet cakes, Duff and Geof get to work favorite hat. Duff and the staff go the extra nary school.” accomplished stained-glass artist. —DUFF —MARY ALICE quickly applying fondant the odd-shaped mile, creating an edible hatbox out of —MORRIE GOLDMAN dog cake. With all cakes now completed, gumpaste and edible tissue paper. For his “I hope someone there can give me the fi st “You got to be real fast with it because it the bakery has less than twenty-four hours dad’s birthday, Duff replicates a World War of rock. That sounds kind of dirty, though, will dry out, it will crack, but yet you have to deliver them. Duff and Geof explain the II-era “Flying Wing” plane, which he will doesn’t it?” Wedding Cakes to be really, really gentle with it at the same complexities of delivering different types trick out with a series of fi reworks. While Life’s a Zoo —GEOF and Headaches time. Fondant’s like a woman, but I won’t of cakes. All deliveries are completed, and Duff and decorator Richard perform a fi re- get into that now.” another successful week at Charm City works test for his dad’s cake, Geof places Production #: DB104 Production #: DB103 —GEOF Cakes concludes. fondant stripes around the hat box and the Original air date: September 7, 2006 Original air date: August 19, 2006 entire Charm City Cakes team gets to work Writer: Dustin Rubin Life’s a Zoo Writer: Miriam Leffert “Why is it that everything is done, and Featured cakes: Tequila, German Shep- completing all their cakes for the looming Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels we’re not done? Can somebody tell me herd, and Naval Academy graduation; weekend deadline. Editor: Grayce Lackland, Jacob Lane Production #: DB104 Editor: Grayce Lackland why everything is done and we’re not done Haggarty, Tisch, Wingate, Zak, Powell, Original air date: September 7, 2006 yet?” Callar, Churlin, Hunt, and California Scenes The Baltimore Zoo asks Duff to create a Writer: Dustin Rubin To celebrate her mother’s eightieth birth- —DUFF weddings. Featured cakes: Beardsley Wedding, Hat pair of fl amingos for a black-tie event. Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels day, a client asks Charm City Cakes to Box, World War II Flying Wing, Grape, and Decorative techniques: Rice Krispy treats While Duff uses an arc welder to join the Editor: Grayce Lackland, Jacob Lane design a cake in the form of her mother’s “Just checking on my investment in culi- Lavender Anniversary usage, fondant application, fondant crack metal support rods to the base of the Fla- favorite hat. Duff and the staff go the extra nary school.” repair. Special appearances: Rahn, Steven, Peggy mingo cake, Sherri must help area baker The Baltimore Zoo asks Duff to create a mile, creating an edible hatbox out of —MORRIE GOLDMAN (Dorothy’s daughter), Dorothy, Morrie, and Food Network personality Warren ced sheet cakes, Duff and Geof get to work gumpaste and edible tissue paper. For his Caketastrophe: Duff must repair a fon- Luke Brown create a replica of the U.S. Capitol quickly applying fondant the odd-shaped dad’s birthday, Duff replicates a World War dant crack in the bottom tier of an already dome for a cupcake-tower wedding cake. dog cake. With all cakes now completed, II-era “Flying Wing” plane, which he will painted cake. Decorative techniques: Royal icing appli- Duff and Richard use sanders and blocks the bakery has less than twenty-four hours trick out with a series of fi reworks. While Life’s a Zoo cation, gum paste construction, piping and Fun facts: Sound mixer Josh Spector ap- of Styrofoam to shape the fl amingo heads. to deliver them. Duff and Geof explain the Duff and decorator Richard perform a fi re- painting design outlines, fondant applica- pears in a half-second cameo in this epi- Duff and Geof cover the fl amingo frame- complexities of delivering different types works test for his dad’s cake, Geof places Production #: DB104 tion, fi reworks. sode. work with fondant. Sherri works on the of cakes. All deliveries are completed, and fondant stripes around the hat box and the Original air date: September 7, 2006 Fun facts: Even though this is the third dome and cuts out fondant fl amingo feath- another successful week at Charm City entire Charm City Cakes team gets to work Writer: Dustin Rubin “Sherri is like the Swiss army knife – she episode completed, Food Network aired ers. Duff airbrushes the fl amingos pink. Cakes concludes. completing all their cakes for the looming Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels can do anything.” it two days after the series premiere, and Once the fl amingos are completed, Duff weekend deadline. Editor: Grayce Lackland, Jacob Lane Featured cakes: Tequila, German Shep- —DUFF a week prior to episode 102, Hell Week. and Sherri must hold the oversize cake di- herd, and Naval Academy graduation; Duff’s band, …soihadto…, played “Search- agonally in the cargo space of the delivery The Baltimore Zoo asks Duff to create a Haggarty, Tisch, Wingate, Zak, Powell, Featured cakes: Beardsley Wedding, Hat “Ever notice there’s always peas in throw up? ing for the Cure” in this episode. This is van so it doesn’t collapse while Mary Alice pair of fl amingos for a black-tie event. Callar, Churlin, Hunt, and California Scenes Box, World War II Flying Wing, Grape, and Even if you haven’t had peas, there’s peas.” the fi rst episode to feature appearances by drives them to the Zoo. While Duff uses an arc welder to join the weddings. Lavender Anniversary —DUFF Duff’s family. metal support rods to the base of the Fla- Featured cakes: Flamingo display, Fist Decorative techniques: Rice Krispy treats Special appearances: Rahn, Steven, Peggy mingo cake, Sherri must help area baker of Rock groom’s, Capital Dome wedding “High fi ve? I don’t play that jive.” “It’s not Charm City Cookies. It’s not Charm usage, fondant application, fondant crack (Dorothy’s daughter), Dorothy, Morrie, and Food Network personality Warren topper. —GEOF City Meatloaf.” repair. Luke Brown create a replica of the U.S. Capitol —DUFF Special appearances: Warren Brown, Lainie dome for a cupcake-tower wedding cake. Caketastrophe: Duff must repair a fon- Decorative techniques: Royal icing appli- “We call a turn like this a cake killer.” Contreras, Matthew Mulkey and Ruth Duff and Richard use sanders and blocks dant crack in the bottom tier of an already cation, gum paste construction, piping and —DUFF “She’s taking our baking for granite.” Martin (groom and bride), Barbara Queen of Styrofoam to shape the fl amingo heads. painted cake. painting design outlines, fondant applica- —MARY ALICE (bride). Duff and Geof cover the fl amingo frame- tion, fi reworks. Fun facts: Sound mixer Josh Spector ap- work with fondant. Sherri works on the Decorative techniques: Chocolate sculpt- “You got to be real fast with it because it pears in a half-second cameo in this epi- Fun facts: Even though this is the third dome and cuts out fondant fl amingo feath- ing, fondant application, layered airbrush- Wedding Cakes will dry out, it will crack, but yet you have sode. episode completed, Food Network aired ers. Duff airbrushes the fl amingos pink. ing technique, gum paste fi gures. and Headaches to be really, really gentle with it at the same it two days after the series premiere, and Once the fl amingos are completed, Duff time. Fondant’s like a woman, but I won’t Featured organizations: Zoomerang, Bal- “Sherri is like the Swiss army knife – she a week prior to episode 102, Hell Week. and Sherri must hold the oversize cake di- Production #: DB103 get into that now.” timore Zoo can do anything.” Duff’s band, …soihadto…, played “Search- agonally in the cargo space of the delivery Original air date: August 19, 2006 —GEOF —DUFF ing for the Cure” in this episode. This is van so it doesn’t collapse while Mary Alice Fun facts: Duff fi rst appeared with Warren Writer: Miriam Leffert the fi rst episode to feature appearances by drives them to the Zoo. on the premiere episode of his Food Net- Director: Jeffrey R. Daniels “Why is it that everything is done, and “Ever notice there’s always peas in throw up? Duff’s family. work series Sugar Rush. Warren owns and Featured cakes: Flamingo display, Fist Editor: Grayce Lackland we’re not done? Can somebody tell me Even if you haven’t had peas, there’s peas.” operates one of his Cake Love specialty of Rock groom’s, Capital Dome wedding why everything is done and we’re not done —DUFF “It’s not Charm City Cookies. It’s not Charm shops in nearby Canton. The stained-glass topper. To celebrate her mother’s eightieth birth- yet?” City Meatloaf.” mosaic featuring the Charm City Cakes day, a client asks Charm City Cakes to —DUFF “High fi ve? I don’t play that jive.” —DUFF 34 —GEOF 35