CRUISING LOG CRUISING LOG Duncan Kent is an experienced sailor and YOURCRUISING a marine journalist who has owned a number STORIES of cruising boats. Feasting on freshly caught Poiath or Naok – both well-protected fish is a highlight of the day harbours with lazy lines. Alternatively, Relaxing on the you can anchor safely in the large bay tranquil waters of Mongonissi Bay, Paxos immediately south of the old fort, but it’s a long dinghy ride and walk to the town. Old Town is definitely worth a visit, though, as it is a fine example of Venetian architecture and boasts a fascinating history, with the town being in the possession of various invaders over its 1200-year existence, including the Venetians, French and the Brits, before being handed back to in 1864.

sleepy Paxos After a bumpy night anchored off Petriti, a Set aside some time to explore small but busy holiday town in the south-east Corfu’s fascinating Old Town corner of Corfu, we beam-reached across to Corfu offers a plethora Mourtos on the mainland to make the most of idyllic anchorages of the fresh Force 5 northerly breeze before beaches are filled by mid-afternoon. That spending a very comfortable night anchored said, Lakka was fairly quiet when we got in a tiny bay between two off-lying islands. there late morning, so we had plenty of room Impressive Venetian We took a stern line ashore to keep our to anchor just outside the harbour wall. After architecture is prevalent bows pointed at the entrance, from where a food delivery to our dinghy – saving us any swell or ferry wash might emanate, but from lugging heavy bags in the 30°C heat – the night was dead still and the only it was time for lunch. We expected to pay top boats of all shapes and sizes. We found a company were schools of curious fish dollar for the best views in town, but our stern-to berth on one of the three quays swimming around our hull looking for scraps. superb lunch of mixed grilled fish and and paid €10 for the use of the metered The next day another brisk sail took us excellent house wine cost €55 per head. water tap. Re-stocked with Mataxa, cheese back across the Gulf to Paxos, where we That afternoon involved little more than pies and water we continued south to Exploring hoped to get into the island’s favourite port, swimming, sunbathing and siesta-ing! Mongonissi – an attractive and peaceful Lakka, before the hordes arrived. Short of fresh water, the next day we put little bay with room to anchor, good holding, The Ionian has become a favourite into the busy port of late safe swimming and two good tavernas. If the Ionian with both yachties and tourists morning. The ‘capital’ of the intending to reach the famous Emerald Corfu and neighbouring Paxos have long been a haven for sailors, but it’s still possible over the past few decades, 0 10nm island, Gaios is a quaint, Bay on Antipaxos early in the morning, so many of the best but seriously bustling this makes an ideal overnight stop. to find a sleepy spot to drop anchor, as Duncan Kent discovers Ay Stephanos anchoring spots and ALBANIA port crammed with N swimming in emerald bay Gouvia Steeped in mythology, Greece’s Ionian and the fridge on. After decanting our Otherwise there was little sound other than Corfu Town We left at 0830 to reach Emerald Bay Lakka is the most popular Sea has been a favoured sailing ground luggage, we wandered into the nearby town, the noise of cicadas and the splashing of Ionian before the day trippers, and an hour later place to anchor in Paxos CORFU Sea for cruisers and liveaboards for decades. Kontokali for a dinner of delicious, yet simple crew diving overboard for a refreshing early GREECE were anchored off the small beach with With its myriad islands and predictable Greek food at a very reasonable price. morning swim. Petriti fish darting around our hull. Swimming in the Adriatic Sea Syvota weather patterns you’re rarely far from After a lazy breakfast we motored up to ITALY impossibly clear turquoise water was one of Mourtos I. CORFU a secure bolthole if the afternoon sea exploring Corfu Kassiopi, an hour or so north, to take a look GREECE the highlights of our holiday, but everything breeze becomes a little too fresh. A week is never enough to check in and around. This is a lovely village with what SICILY PAXOS changed when the first of many noisy day 0 100nm Lakka Gaios Much is said about the southern Ionian out and discover the delights of such an is normally a well-protected harbour and Mongonisi tripper boats came careering into the bay islands, Levkas, , and excellent cruising area, so we booked anchorage. But in a strong northerly or Emerald Bay at midday. We upped and left, ghosting back ANTIPAXOS , but less about Corfu, Paxos and 10 days. There are numerous small bays on north-easterly breeze you would need to to Mongonissi for a leg-stretch ashore Antipaxos in the north. Having heard that the north-east coast, most with reasonable find a berth stern-to on the short quay. followed by a celebratory meal. the delightful Emerald Bay on the north-east holding, a beach and a taverna or two Ashore there are numerous holiday The next day we again poked our bows coast of Antipaxos is one of the finest places ashore. Many, though, are open to the apartments and the small town is busy but into the marina at Corfu Town but decided in the Ionian to swim off an anchored yacht, high-speed ferry wash, which can be not manic. There are nice bays with sandy instead to get back to the base and save our I was determined to experience it first-hand. uncomfortable. Others are more sheltered, beaches each side of Kassiopi but, being visit for the spare day after the boat was Via its UK agent, Tenrag Yacht Charters, although during our stay the winds often open to the north-west wind and ferry wash returned. We were glad we chose to do this we chose Greek-owned Kiriacoulis to blew from the north-east instead of the makes them lunch or swim stops only. – it was certainly worth finding the time to provide our yacht – a smart, three-cabin north-west, making them untenable. We were keen to head south so, after a wander the streets and explore the corners Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409 based in We found Ay Stephanos in the north-east quick run ashore for bread, we headed for of this stunning old town. Gouvia Marina. Home to 1,250 boats, it’s corner of the island an ideal overnight Corfu Town with the building north-east a mere 20 minute, €25 taxi ride from the anchorage. The holding is good in 5 to 6m wind giving us an exciting broad reach. On A seven-day charter costs £2,912; airport and a 15 minute, €1.70 bus ride to just outside the small boat harbour and there reaching Corfu Town we checked out the refundable security deposit €2,000 the delightful Corfu Town, with its numerous are shops, bars and restaurants ashore. We old harbour, which has stern-to moorings for or non-refundable damage waiver good restaurants, well-stocked supermarkets dined on board watching the sun set over around 20 visitors. Owing to the recent poor insurance €315; outboard €80; cleaning and large outdoor swimming pool. the Albanian mountains and were woken weather, though, the harbour was full. If you €95. For more information, visit Tenrag We arrived after sunset, but our boat was at a respectable hour by a few small local phone ahead you can sometimes berth in Yacht Charters: 01227 657450; left unlocked with shore power connected fishing boats pottering gently back in. one of the two private yacht club marinas, www.tenrag.com

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