Appendix One Flax Glossary of Terms with Illustrations

Reintroduction of Fibre Flax in Midwestern Ontario from Field to Finished Product| 2012 Flax Glossary of Terms with Illustrations

ABACA: Etymology: Spanish abacá, from Tagalog abaká 1: a obtained from the leafstalk of a banana (Musa textilis) native to the Philippines -- called also Manila 2: the plant that yields abaca

ANNUAL: Completing the life cycle in one growing season: lasting one year.

AEROBIC: Living or active only in the presence of oxygen. Relating to, involving, or requiring free oxygen: in dew retting the presence of air and moisture from dew or rain or snow certain simple aerobic fungi gradually devour the pectins and lignins in the flax plant.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Caroline and Christie hand pulling fibre flax and spreading evenly on field in preparation for dew retting.dew retting, Caroline Rasenberg (Assistant Manager of Western University Canada Environmental Sciences Western Field Station) and Christie Stewart, Agronomist for field trials, research project Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Aerobic microorganisms living or active only in the presence of oxygen, dew ret 12 varieties of fibre flax: Electra, Agatha, Caesar Augustus, Alizee, Drakkar, Eden, Marilyn, Sofie, Suzanne, Chantal, Melina & Vesta and 1 variety of seed flax, Bethune.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project AEROPLANE CANVAS: Havallind Tiger Moth aircraft wings, tail and fuselage were covered with doped aeroplane linen canvas.

Toronto Star

ANAEROBIC: Living or active in the absence of free oxygen. In water retting flax plants the presence of anaerobic microscopic organisms gradually devour the pectins and lignins.

a b (Akin) (Akin)

“…Scanning electron microscopy of unretted and retted flax stems. (a) Unretted stem showing the cuticle on the epidermis, , and woody core cells. (b) Similar but dew-retted stem showing the separation of fibers from the cuticularized epidermis and woody core. Fiber bundles have also been subdivided into smaller bundles and ultimate fibers…” (Akin)

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Running water retted fibre Natasja and Belinka fibre flax through an activation of anaerobic microscopic organisms. A trickle of water runs constantly over the top of tank and also from valve at bottom of tank.

“…Water-retting depends on fermentation by anaerobic bacteria, such as Clostridium felsinium, to degrade pectins and other matrix substances (14). In early times, bundled flax stalks were submerged in natural bodies of running or still water (e.g., lakes, rivers, dams) for 5–7 days…”

Photo credit: Helmut Becker Draining retted water out of stainless steel tank.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project BALING: After the retting is completed special baling machines evenly roll and press the dry retted fibre flax plants into round-coiled bales. These bales can be stored at a humidity of less than 15% for a long time without spoiling.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Fibre flax balers at work near Brugge, Belgium.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Over-head loader in process of loading bales of dew retted fibre flax onto a flat bed transport truck on a field near Brugge, Belgium.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flat bed truck being loaded with bales of dew retted fibre flax and about to be transported from near Brugge to the Debruyn flax factory near Kortirjk, Belgium.

Alvin Ulrich. “Growing for the Market”: Quality Feedstock for Fibre

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Dehondt baler Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Baling heated water retted fibre flax

BAST FIBRES: Any of certain strong woody fibres obtained chiefly from the phloem but also sometimes from the pericycle or cortex of various plants and used especially in the manufacture of ropes, cordage, matting, and fabrics.

BEETS: When put into the water to ret, the pulled flax plants are tied up in beets, or small sheaves.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Beets of Electra and Agatha varieties of fibre flax formed into chapels after completing a running water retting process. David Stinson, Barry Cleave and Gary Eagleson, consultants for project Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario

BEETLING: A process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard, flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous. In this process, the fabric, dampened and wound around an iron cylinder, is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Wellbrook Beetling Mill, Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Cookstown, County Tyrone. United Kingdom Beech wood stampers, Beetling Mill in Ireland.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Beech wood stampers, Beetling Mill in Ireland. Woven natural line cloth is dampened and wound around an iron cylinder, and is passed through a beetling machine in which it is pounded with heavy beech wood mallets.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project BEETLING MILL: Working water-powered mill used in the manufacture of linen. Beetling was the last stage in the manufacturing of linen - and Wellbrook is the last working Beetling Mill in Ireland.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Wellbrook Beetling Mill, Northern Ireland. Water Wheel to drive the beetling mill stampers.

BIO: Bio- is a prefix derived from the Greek word, bios, which means life. James Lovelock Gaia Hypothesis – Earth System Science – “What does the prefix bio- mean in biosphere?” ... living things, for example biology means the study of living things

BIOCOMPOSITE: Bio-composite materials consist of natural fibres (e.g. flax, industrial hemp, jute and wood fibres) as reinforcement in a synthetic polymer matrix. They sometimes crossover with biofibre reinforced plastics. Biocomposites are characterized by the fact that the petrochemical resin is replaced by a vegetable or animal resin, and/or the bolsters (fiberglass, carbon fibre or talc) are replaced by natural fibre (wood fibres, hemp, flax, sisal, jute...).

BIOFIBRES: Typically, “biofibres” are defined as fibrous material derived from plant, tree or shrub sources. This could include the fibres often described as natural fibres - cotton, hemp, flax, kenaf, jute, sisal, bamboo, wood and other similar fibres.

BIOFIBRE REINFORCED PLASTICS: These are plastics reinforced with natural fibres such as cotton, hemp and jute. They are similar to biocomposites. Developments are concentrated in composite laminating for automotive applications.

BIOMASONRY: Use of biofibres as part of a masonry mix (hence biomasonry)

BIOMASS: Flax shives ... flax shives vs. other biomass sources. Biomass waste in the form of biomass flax fibre, produced as a by-product of the . Fire logs made from 100% natural flax straw biomass material. Efficiency of an herbivore–plant interaction: conversion of biomass from flax (Linaceae) to aphid, Macrosiphum euphorbiae (Hemiptera: Aphididae). Utilization of annual fibrous plant biomass (flax and hemp) for different industries. Sustainable agriculture for food, energy and industry. E.G. CULTIVATING ALBERT’S FUTURE Alberta Biomaterials Development Centre (ABDC) helps industry create new products from wood, agricultural fibre and other bio-based feedstock. As one of the largest,

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project most comprehensive biofibre development programs in the world, ABDC provides a single window to access all the biomaterial expertise Alberta has to offer. http://www.albertabiomaterials.com/

BIOPLASTICS: Natural polymers that are made without petrochemicals. Bioplastics (also called organic plastics) are a form of plastics derived from renewable biomass sources, such as vegetable oil, cornstarch, pea starch or microbiota, rather than fossil-fuel plastics which are derived from petroleum. Because of their biological degradability, the use of bioplastics is especially popular for disposable items.

BLEACHING: To remove the color or stains from (as natural fibers, cellulosic pulp,) especially by chemical means (as by oxidizing agents or less often by reducing agents) traditionally using sun and even moonlight. Today 90% of bleaching of flax fibre is carried out with hydrogen peroxide. Remaining 10% with sodium hypochloride. Chlorine is no longer used.

BLEACHING GREENS: Older methods of bleaching linen involved various lengthy treatments of washing and boiling the cloth and included the placing the linen upon greens in the open air throughout the summer months.

A web of linen is a whole piece of cloth woven upon a loom. The linen webs were placed upon gentle slopes of a designated green or bleach field. The natural colour of unbleached linen is brown but over several weeks the effect of sunlight helped to bleach or whiten the linen cloth.

NYPL Digital Gallery provides free and open access. Source: [Cigarette cards.] / Irish view scenery Linen bleaching green, Belfast. (ca. 1908-1919)

BLEACHING WATCH TOWER: The green keeper who used the watchtower guarded the linen from damage; ‘linen on the green’, was vulnerable to damage from straying livestock and from theft.

Tullylish Watch Tower. Ulster Folk and Transport Museum. http://www.nmni.com/uftm/Collections/buildings/Rural- Buildings/Tulylish-Bleach-Tower

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project BLIGHT: A plant disease, especially one caused by fungi such as mildews, rusts, and smuts. Flax breeders are at present diligently working on solving this problem through selective breeding.

BOBBIN: The cylinder or spool upon which yarn or thread is wound.

BOON: The woody portion flax (SHIVE), which is separated from the fibre as refuse matter by retting, braking, and scutching.

BREAKING: A crushing process which separates the dry retted fibre from the inner woody core in the stem. Traditionally a flax break was used, but today in industry factory relays of pairs of fluted breaker rollers efficiently accomplish the extraction process. Leading a retted flax stem between fluted rollers in order to break the woody core of the stem into shives.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Film clip from 1/2 hour TVO documentary “From a Field of Flax” Breaking water retted fibre flax with a beech wood flax break.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. (Flax antiques collection of H Becker)

Antique flax break hand fashioned out of beech wood.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. Employing double fluted rollers to break the shives free of retted fibre flax plants

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. Hand crank operated fibre flax fluted multi-roller break.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project BYSSINOSIS: An occupational asthma. Byssinosis is caused by exposure to airborne dusts of cotton, flax, and soft hemp which is usually composed of microorganisms that grow on flax during retting. “…The dust needs to be removed by the installation of adequate air purification equipment in the turbine shed and enclosing as much of the machinery as possible….” (Riddelstone)

CALENDERING: Etymology: Middle French calandrer, from calandre : to press (as cloth, rubber, paper) between rollers or plates in order to make smooth and glossy or glazed or to thin into sheet. (Mirriam-Webster Unabridged)

CASTLE KILBRIDE/ & THE LINSEED OIL KING OF CANADA: Castle Kilbride - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle_Kilbride Castle Kilbride is the former residence of James Livingston, a Canadian Member of Parliament, and owner of flax and linseed oil mills. ... its building was a tribute to the reputation of its owner as the so-called 'Flax and Oil King of Canada'. The Baden linseed oil mill was the largest of its kind in Canada. Linseed oil had been used since the early nineteenth century for a number of uses. ... and earned the brothers the title of “The Flax Kings of Canada

CELLULOSE: Any of several fibrous substances constituting the chief part of the cell walls of plants and of many fibrous products (as paper, cotton, linen) A complex polymeric carbohydrate (C6H10O5) x

CHAFF: Consists of seed pods and husks remaining after seed has been removed.

CHAPELS: Cone shaped hollow round “stooks” of water retted fibre flax bundles.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Vlasbedrijf Mommerency Gebrs. Ingelmunster, Belgium Belgian field worker forming water retted cone shaped chapels to dry and bleach in wind and sun and rinse clean in a shower or rain.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Gathering dried and warm water retted chapels of fibre flax in preparation for storing and decortication.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

COMBUSTIBLE DUST EXPLOSIONS: A dust explosion is the fast combustion of dust particles suspended in the air in an enclosed location. Coal dust explosions are a frequent hazard in underground coal mines, but dust explosions can occur where any powdered combustible material is present in an enclosed atmosphere. (Wikipedia) e.g.: 1. Harbin, China in 1987. The linen (flax) dust explosion claimed 58 lives and injured 177 workers. 2. A huge fire from burning straw created a tornado by flax straw fire and killed a man in Manitoba. The fire consumed most of 90,000 bales of flax straw stored outside.

COTTONIZATION: Cottonization through Chemical Means: Two processes are involved: degumming with hot alkali NaOH) and scouring by boiling in a solution of sodium carbonate. (Harwood)

“Enzymatic Cottonization”: enzymatic retting of flax. The fiber produced with the aid of biological “cottonization” of flax and hemp hackling noils is soft and is characterized by excellent separation into smaller bundles and elementary fibers in the mechanical processing operations, which makes it capable of being processed in blend with cotton or wool or man- made fibers by techniques specific for the latter raw materials…”

Cottonization using Ultrasound: “…The use of ultrasound in the textile industry has been of interest for many years and is commonly used in wet textile processes and finishing to enhance reaction rates. Ultrasound induces molecular vibration on passing through a liquid and it is thought the resultant impact wave and cavitation can cause cottonization of flax fibre in water. The high energy released weakens the bonds between elementary fibres in the technical fibre…” (Ulrich)

Cottonization using Steam Explosion: Steam explosion employs high temperature chemical degumming through use of alkali and reducing agents.

COTTONIZING LINE: “…Consists of from 5 to 7 cylinder/aspirator systems set up in consecutive order. Each cylinder rotates at a different speed and has a different set of pins. During the cottonizing process, from 25 to 23% of the original weight of tow turns into dust and or very short fibres (used for paper & compressed fire logs) The resultant cottonized fibre can be blended with other short staple natural and man-made fibres and spun into blended yarns…” (Ulrich)

CULTIVAR: Etymology: cultivated variety An organism of a kind (as a variety, strain, or race) that has originated and persisted under cultivation: e.g. the Linum usitatissimum variety Belinka.

CYCLOTRON: In technology, a cyclotron is a type of particle accelerator. Gigantic potential for bioscience research: e.g. X-ray Spectromicroscopy of the Effect of Chemical Treatment on Flax Fibres (Saskatoon) (R. Oraji, C. Karunakaran, S. Panigrahi, A. Hitchcock). Characterization of Interfacial Bonding in Bio- composites by Soft X-ray Spectromicroscopy. Bast fibres (flax, hemp, kenaf, ramie) are increasingly used as reinforcement materials in bio-composites. Recently, soft X-ray spectromicroscopy has been shown to be a powerful technique to characterize agriculture based bioproducts; Use of Synchrotron Radiation FTIR Microspectroscopy to Determine the Distribution of Cellulosic Material and Lignin in Plant Biomass A.L.M. Fodje, P. Yu, J.J. McKinnon, D.A. Christensen, C.R. Christensen; C. Karunakaran (CLSI) Effect of bleaching on the composition and structure of flax fibres.

DAMASK: A firm lustrous fabric produced with warp-faced and filling-faced satins for figure and ground respectively on one side and with reversed effect on the other, made on jacquard looms usually of linen.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project DECORTICATION: Extracting the fibres from the flax plant by removal of the rest of the stem. E.g. Hill Agra Sales Portable Fiber Extractor successfully decorticates the fibers from retted bast plants such as flax and hemp.

DESEEDING: In the past to remove the seeds, flax was threshed with a flax flail. Later seeds were removed at a flax processing mill by passing the seed end of the flax through a deseeding machine. Today flax is highly mechanized and special equipment is designed for harvesting and deseeding.

Dehondt fibre flax deseeder. Deseeding – during pulling process or about 7 – 10 days after pulling.

DESICCATE: To dry up or cause to dry up: deprive or exhaust of moisture

DESICCATION: Arresting the growth of flax in the field by spraying with a desiccant. Experiments have been carried out using an herbicide such as Round-up to stop all plant growth. Sprayed retting enzyme on flax in the field may follow.

Desiccated flax field. Desiccation takes approximately 14 days. In Wales, twin drum mowers are recommended for dew and stand retted crops. http://www.flaxandhemp.bangor.ac.uk/english/guides_flax.htm#dessication

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project DICOTYLEDON: Etymology: New Latin dicotyledonous A plant having two cotyledons. Angiosperm (flowering plant) having two cotyledons or two seed leafs.

DIRECT DYES: Dyes that form a weak chemical bond between the dye and the fibre molecule. They have a good to excellent light fastness but poor to fair wash fastness,

DISTAFF: As a noun, a distaff ( /ˈdɪstɑˈf/, also called a rock[1]) is a tool used in spinning. It is designed to hold the unspun fibers, keeping them untangled and thus easing the spinning process. It is most commonly used to hold flax, and sometimes wool, but can be used for any type of fiber. Fiber is wrapped around the distaff, and tied in place with a piece of ribbon or string. The word comes from dis in Low German, meaning a bunch of flax, connected with staff. As an adjective the term distaff is used to describe the female side of a family. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A distaff and a spindle

DRUM MOWER: used to harvest flax fiber as an early crop for fiber only or as a mature crop for both seed and fiber production in South Carolina.

“…Flax that has been naturally dried or sprayed with a desiccant produces a dry, usable seed. To harvest flax for seed requires relatively dry stalk material; otherwise stalks clog the stripper header of the combine. Harvesting flax at maturity according to the CFF process requires that the seeds be first removed from stalks with a stripper header attached to a grain combine. In combining, seeds are easily damaged so the condition of the seed determines the harvesting speed. Flaxseed can be safely stored at moisture levels of 10.5% or lower. The deseeded stalks are then drum- cut, field-dried, and rake for even dew-retting and drying. Flax straw should be raked into windrows and baled using standard hay baling protocol such as straw dryness, baler setting, bale density, speed, and packaging…” When ready for harvesting Drum mower is used to cut fibre flax plants as short to the ground as possible necessitating sowing the fibre flax seed on as flat a surface as possible and not in a corn rotation. (Foulk)

DUST: Ultra fine flax plant particles mechanically separated out through breaking, scutching, hackling or hammer mill etc. Processing can pose serious fire explosion and health hazard risks if not controlled.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project DYEING: In use of synthetic dyes approximately 20 -40% of dyes remain unfixed and pose a serious pollution problem. (Some dyes contain heavy metals such as copper, zinc and chromium) Residues from heavy metal mordants used to set natural dyes are equally hazardous. BAST (linen, flax, hemp, jute, ramie) acid, direct, (disperse), reactive, vat, solubilized vat.

E-GLASS: A type of borosilicate glass used to produce glass fibers for reinforced plastics designed for applications requiring high electrical resistivity. Also known as electric glass.

ELEMENTARY FIBRES: Single plant cells, mostly between 10 and 25 μm thickness and between 20 and 50 mm length.

(Heller) Magnification 250 times

EXTRACTION: Flax scutching process is to extract the fibre from the flax plant - to clean by beating with a swingle. To be processed on conventional flax machinery, the stems have to be kept aligned throughout harvesting and fibre extraction. Flax Seed Oil is extracted by cold pressing, the mechanical extraction of the oil from the seed, at a temperature less than 50 degrees Celsius.

FERTILIZER FOR FIBRE FLAX CULTIVATION:

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Fertilizer for fibre flax cultivation: phosphorus, Potassium & Nitrogen. “Some Useful Cultivation Tips” for fibre flax agronomy. Newsletter (1994 # 10) of the Belgian Algemeen Belgisch Vlasverbond (General Belgian Flax Association) Recommendation per hectare is for Nitrogen 64 kilograms, phosphorus 41 kilograms & Potassium 91 kilograms. (Daenekindt,)

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project FIBRE BUNDLES: Coarse, ribbon-shaped fibres as they are isolated from the stem by breaking and scutching, consisting of a large number of elementary fibres in diameter. Pre-stage of technical fibres.

(Heller) 10% of flax capsules have reached final size

(Heller) green-yellow maturity of flax magnification 1000 times

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project FIBRE FLAX: see FLAX

FLANDERS: Formerly a principality in the southwest of the Low Countries, which occupied territories that are now divided between France, Belgium and Holland. In Europe, fibre flax is grown on the maritime border Normandy – Belgium - Holland.

FLAX: a: a plant of the genus Linum; especially: a slender erect annual (Linum usitatissimum) with linear leaves and blue flowers that is widely cultivated for (1) FIBRE FLAX Its long silky bast fibers which when freed from the stem by retting and mechanical processes are used in textile manufacture and are the source of linen and (2) SEED FLAX Its seeds yield a valuable oil and a meal used especially for cattle feed. b: the bast fiber of the fibre flax plant especially when cleaned and prepared for spinning. The plant and fibre before it is spun.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Chantal fibre flax white flower Fibre flax variety Chantal

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Blue petalled fibre flax

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Saskatchewan seed flax field with Secretary of FAO/ESCORENA & the E u r o f l a x Newsletter, Maria Mackiewicz-Talarczyk amidst a sea of blue flax flowers extending to the prairie horizon.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project FLAX ART WORKS: A growing number of artist/papermakers around the world are experimenting with the creative potential of bast fibres of flax and hemp for new handmade paper art works.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Sun and Sundial. International Biennial of Paper Art, 1988, Leopold-Hoesch Museum, Duren, Germany. Scale: 140” x 140” & 54” x 108”

FLAX SCUTCHING LINE: Refers to a complete factory set of processing machines for breaking and scutching retted fibre flax into quality long “line” fibre, shorter “tow” fibre and shives.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Official opening at Gilflax, Valleyfield, PQ. Depoortre Flax line scutching mill.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Debruyne factory feeding fibre flax bales into scutching mill.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Debruyne separating flax tow fibre and flax shives.

A complete most up-to-date technology line scutching system is Van Dommele. http://www.vandommele.be/htmlENG/decorticationline.html

Alberta Biomaterials Development Centre (ABDC), working with Van Dommele, purchased and commissioned a Van Dommele system that has the capacity to process bast fibres such as flax, hemp or kenaf. A bast fibre plant is composed of a wooden core surrounded by fibres. The processing unit separates the wooden core from the fibres and prepares both for further treatment. At the end of the Van Dommele line, the fibres are ready to be processed into insulation material, structural or non-structural boards (automotive and furniture industry), or composites (in combination with or replacing glass fibres). The wooden core can be applied as stable bedding for horses or as construction material. The installation of this system exemplifies the work of ABDC to propel the biomaterial industry in Alberta to new heights and make Alberta the centre for fibre processing in North America. The Van Dommele fibre processing system is located Iin Vegreville at Tech Futures, an ABDC partner.

FLAX STRAW: the whole flax plant after pulling and drying; the fiber flax retted and broken but not scutched.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project FUNGI: Flax retting microscopic organisms. The following fungi developed on plants during dew retting: C. herbarum (summer retting), Mucor stolonifer (autumn retting), Mucorhiemalis (retting under snow), Mucor plumbeus, A. niger, F. culmorum, E. nigrum, and Rhizopus species. Rhizomucor pusillus and Fusarium lateritium were noteworthy as retting organisms by their high level of pectinase activity, ability to attack noncellulosic cell types without attacking cellulose. “…Van Sumere (14) noted particular fungi with retting periods, e.g., Cladosporium herbarum for summer retting, Mucor stolonifer for autumn retting, and M. hiemalis for snow retting…(Akin)

FUSARIUM: A mold of a large genus, many of which cause plant diseases, esp. wilting. By selective breeding the problem has basically been overcome some 30 years ago by creating naturally resistant varieties.

GENE BANK: There are a set number of gene banks in the world where among other seeds, fibre flax seeds, seed flax seeds and wild flax seeds are carefully housed in special temperature humidity controlled buildings. These are a vital resource for flax breeders world wide. An important flax seed collection is housed at the University of Saskatchewan, in Saskatoon. Wageningen UR, Centre for Genetic Resources, the Netherlands, is a European gene bank with a long record of outstanding flax research.

GENOME: One haploid set of chromosomes with the genes they contain.

GENOME CANADA FLAX: Determine the DNA sequence of the entire flax plant. Develop genetic and physical maps outlining the position and relationship of genes that are important for improved flax usefulness. Research conducted by a team of experts located across Canada. Goal is to develop flax as a dual-purpose crop providing both seeds and straw products of unmatched quality and high value.

(Pavelek)

GEOTEXTILES: Textile products that are deliberately placed in contact with the ground are often referred to as geotextiles.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project GERMINATION: the process whereby seeds or spores sprout and begin to grow.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Counting out 100 healthy fibre flax seeds for germination test

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Fibre flax seed germination test

Photo credit: Helmut Becker.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Checking fibre flax seed germination

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project GRASSING: To spread (as linen for bleaching) on the grass.

HACKLING: Hanks of fibre are combed or ‘hackled’ – pulled through ever finer sets of metal pins. Combing the fibre bundles to separate them into much finer technical fibres.

HAMMER MILL: A machine whose purpose is to shred or crush aggregate material into smaller pieces. Hammer mill unretted flax straw. In preparation for Biofibres, pulp and paper applications. A “sweetener” as an additive to recycled pulp for paper production. Hammer milled roughly cleaned unretted flax fiber has an f.o.b. southern Manitoba value of $300 to $400/tonne. Hammer mills shred stock bales using hammers that impact the stalks shredding them into fibre.

HARD FIBRES: Hard fibres include primarily sisal and henequen, abaca and coir.

HARROW: A farm implement consisting of a heavy frame with sharp teeth or upright disks, used to break up and even off plowed ground.

HARROWING: To break up and level (soil or land) with a harrow.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Harrowing freshly sown fibre flax field

HECKLE: A "flax comb" for splitting and straightening the fibers for spinning.

Fibre flax heckles all have square attenuated needles, not round needles as for wool heckling. The fine heckles contain no fewer than 1,109 teeth. Instead of making the points round, it is better to make them quadrangular, in a rhombus form, in which case the edges serve to separate or dissect the fibres.

Combing fibre flax with ultra-fine heckle to as fine as baby’s hair.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project HECKLING: splits and straightens the flax fibers, as well as removing the fibrous core and impurities from flax. Heckling is done with heckling combs by pulling the flax through the combs. This parts the locked fibers and makes them straight, clean, and ready to spin. After heckling, the flax is ready to spin. After spinning, the flax is then suitable for weaving into linen. Wikipedia

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum Kortrijk, Belgium

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. An 1828 Antique fibre flax heckle. H Becker collection. Heckling snow bleached, water retted fibre flax.

L’Industrie Textile Le Lin. Dictionnaire

L’Industrie Textile Le Lin. Dictionnaire Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Heckling fibre flax.

HECTARE A metric unit of area equal to 100 acres or 10,000 square meters. One hectare is equal to 2.471054 acres.

HEMI-CELLULOSE: Any of various polysaccharides that accompany cellulose and lignin in the skeletal substances of wood and green plants and that resemble cellulose in being insoluble in water

HEMP: A tall widely cultivated Asiatic herb (Cannabis sativa) with tough bast fiber that is used for making cloth, floor covering, and cordage.

HERBICIDE: Weed killer.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. Women and children hand pulling weeds from young fibre flax field stand.

HYGROMETER: Any of several instruments for measuring the humidity of the atmosphere.

HUMIDITY: Degree of wetness (as of a solid surface or the air) perceptible to the eye or to touch: moisture, dampness

JACQUARD: 1 a : a loom apparatus or head for weaving figured fabrics that has a mechanism controlled by a chain of variously perforated cards which cause the warp threads to be lifted in the proper sequence for producing figures b or jacquard loom : a loom having a jacquard 2 : a fabric of jacquard weave (Merriam-Webster Unabridged)

LEA: Information on yarn count numbers, usually found on coned yarns such as ... Linen: lea, 300 yards (i.e.: 1 lea linen has 300 yards, a 5 lea linen has 1500 yards). The indirect yarn count system of the flax industry. (Number of 300-yard lengths that weigh one pound.)

LIGNIN: An amorphous substance or mixture that together with cellulose forms the woody cell walls of plants and the cementing material between them and thus gives them added mechanical strength, that is a polymeric material characterized by a higher carbon content than cellulose and by propyl-benzene units, methoxyl groups, and hydroxyl groups, and that is not hydrolyzed by acids but is soluble in hot alkali and bisulfite and is readily oxidizable.

LINE FLAX: the long flax fiber that has been drawn off of the hackles. The finest preparation is often used for wet-spun linen, but line can also be dry spun.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credits: Helmut Becker. Line fibre flax breaking and scutching mill, Vlasbedrijf Mommerency Gebrs. Debruyne factory, Belgium. Ingelmunster, Belgium Line fibre flax (heated water retted)

LINEN: a. Thread made from fibers of the flax plant. b. Cloth woven from this thread. : Articles or garments made from linen.

LINEN FROM FLAX SEED TO WOVEN CLOTH: (see Glossary, page 208 & 209) Heinrich, Linda. 2010.

LINSEED OR FLAX SEED: Seed of the flax plant. The commercial product consisting of these seeds that is used as a demulcent and emollient in inflammatory conditions of the respiratory, intestinal, and urinary passages and that yields linseed oil.

LINSEED OIL: yellowish oil extracted from the seeds of flax and used as a drying oil in paints and varnishes and in linoleum, printing inks, and synthetic resins. The dried ripe seed of Linum usitatissimum, the common flax plant, used as a laxative and a topic demulcent and emollient.

LINUM USITATISSIMUM: a. widely cultivated plant, Linum usitatissimum, having pale blue flowers, seeds that yield linseed oil, and slender stems from which a textile fiber is obtained. b. The fine, light-colored textile fiber obtained from this plant. c. Any of various other plants of the genus Linum or of similar or related genera.

LOCULES: Etymology: French, from Latin loculus compartment, receptacle, coffin -- more at LOCULUS:

LOCULUS: used chiefly in botany. A locule (pl. locules or loculi; from Latin loculus, meaning "little place") is a small cavity or compartment within an organ or part of an organism (plant) LODGING: is influenced by morphological (structural) plant traits as well as environmental conditions. Lodging is often a result of the combined effects of inadequate standing power of the crop and adverse weather conditions, such as rain, wind, and/or hail. Lodging is also variety (cultivar) dependent. For fine lace, extra fine fibre was achieved through a denser stand of fibre flax e.g. 3,000 seeds per square meter. The dense extra fine stems were subject to lodging and were sometimes given extra supports. An excess of nitrogen fertilizer can also weaken flax plants and cause lodging to occur. LUMEN: The space enclosed by the walls of a cell and in a living cell occupied by the protoplast.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project MERCERIZATION: To give [cotton yarn or cloth] luster, strength, and receptiveness to dyes by treatment under tension with caustic soda.

MICROBES: Nature’s top recyclers. Regional researchers are leading a $10.4-million international collaboration in the study of bacteria that convert waste materials such as straw, woodchips and paper into biofuels and renewable, biodegradable plastics.

MICRON: a unit of length equal to one thousandth of a millimeter or about 0.000039 inch.

MONOCOTYLEDON: Angiosperm (flowering plant) having an embryo with a single cotyledon, or seed leaf (as opposed to dicotyledons, which have two).

MUMMIFICATION: The mummification in Ancient Egypt was a process which took 70 days. Each mummy needed hundreds of yards of linen. The priests carefully wound the long strips of linen around the body, sometimes even wrapping each finger and toe separately before wrapping the entire hand or foot. In order to protect the dead from mishap, amulets were placed among the wrappings and prayers and magical words written on some of the linen strips. Often the priests placed a mask of the person's face between the layers of head bandages. At several stages, the form was coated with warm resin and the wrapping resumed once again. At last the priests wrapped the final cloth or shroud in place and secured it with linen strips. The mummy was complete. - Encyclopedia Smithsonian

NANO-FIBRE REINFORCED POLYMER BIOCOMPOSITES: Polymer biocomposites formed from a wide range of naturally derived sustainable resources, in particular, flax, hemp and kenaf, used in automotive applications. In optimum form, cellulose nanofibres can have strength and stiffness an order of magnitude higher than current natural fibre reinforcements and could lead to new markets as engineering materials, biomedical devices, packaging and textile products. - Prof. Peter Hornsby, Queens University.

NANOTECHNOLOGY: The technical process of working on the nano-scale. Each nano-scale molecule is one million times smaller than a grain of sand. Nanotechnology refers to not only the small size of the materials being used, but also how those materials are engineered to perform specific functions.

NATURAL FIBRES: United Nations International Year of Natural Fibres 2009. Natural fibres are a healthy choice.

Plant fibres include seed hairs, such as cotton; stem (or bast) fibres, such as flax and hemp; leaf fibres, such as sisal; and husk fibres, such as coconut. Animal fibres include wool, hair and secretions, such as silk.

NEW KINGDOM: The New Kingdom of Egypt also referred to as the Egyptian Empire is the period in ancient Egyptian history between the 16th century BC and the 11th century BC.

Photo Credit: Helmut Becker. Flax cord from Egyptian New Kingdom, British Museum, London, UK.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project NEW ZEALAND FLAX: a tall New Zealand herb (Phormium tenax) having erect, sword-shaped leaves and scarlet or yellow flowers The strong fiber from the leaves of New Zealand flax used chiefly for cordage, twine, and mattings. Is not a member of LINACEAE or the flax family.

OLD KINGDOM: The Old Kingdom ran from about 2686-2160 B.C. It started with the 3rd Dynasty and ended with the 8th.

Photo credits: Helmut Becker. Flax and linen artifacts from Ancient Egypt. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. British Museum, London, UK. Old Egyptian horizontal loom.

ONTARIO FLAX MILLS 1871:

MacFayden.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project OSMOSIS: The flow or diffusion that takes place through a semi permeable membrane (as of a living cell) typically separating either a solvent (as water) and a solution or a dilute solution and a concentrated solution and thus bringing about conditions for equalizing the concentrations of the components on the two sides of the membrane because of the unequal rates of passage in the two directions until equilibrium is reached; especially: the passage of solvent in distinction from the passage of solute. A process for continuous degumming of fibres of bast plants and a device for continuous degumming of fibres of bast plants. Patent. Institute of Natural Fibres, Poznan, Poland

PAPER MADE FROM FLAX AND LINEN: Although papermaking was invented by the Chinese in 105 A.D., papermaking did not reach the western world until a full millennium later. (Present day discovered Chinese paper artifacts place the date of discovery a few centuries earlier) Since the introduction of papermaking by the Moors in Spain in 1000 A.D. for centuries most all handmade paper was made from linen from flax and hemp and later also from cotton. Papermaking from wood pulp was invented a little over a century ago, (“…The use of wood to make pulp for paper began with the ... in the 1840s, and by the Canadian inventor Charles Fenerty in Nova Scotia….” Wikipedia Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and linen handmade paper. Artist’s book. Papermaking Exhibition. American Craft Museum, NYC. 1982. Artist: Helmut Becker.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Artist: Helmut Becker.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project PECTINS: The primary roles of cell walls are to give physical strength to the plant and to provide a barrier against the outside environment. The main role of pectin is to participate in these two functions together with the other polymers. Plant cell adhesion.

PERENNIAL: A plant that dies back seasonally and produces new growth from a perennating part.

PHLOEM: A complex tissue in the vascular system of higher plants consisting mainly of sieve tubes and companion cells and usually also of fibers and parenchyma cells and functioning chiefly in translocation but also in support and storage -- called also bast, sieve tissue.

PHYTOSANITARY: Etymology: phyt- + sanitary: of, relating to, or being measures for the control of plant diseases especially in agricultural crops. Export or import customs regulations may require a phytosanitary certificate from country of origin.

PLOUGH GRASS LAND IN PREPARATION FOR GROWING FIBRE FLAX

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Poet/playwright James Reaney’s home farm, Stratford, ON. William Cooke plowing grass land in preparation for growing fibre flax.

PRINTING: A process of decorating textile fabrics by application of pigments, dyes, or other related materials in the form of patterns. Although apparently developed from the hand painting of fabrics, such methods are also of great antiquity.

POLLINATION: Flax is normally self-pollinated, but insects cause some natural crossing.

“…Linseed and flax are cultivars of Linum usitatissimum L. Linseed cultivars are grown for their seed alone; they have shorter and thicker sterns, reaching 60-80 cm in height when mature, more capsules and larger seeds than those of flax. Flax cultivars reach 80-120 cm in height, and are grown primarily for fibre for the linen industry, although the seed is also used and frequently termed 'linseed'…” Ingrid H Williams. The Pollination of Linseed and Flax.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. At far right top a bee pollinating a flax flower. In the centre are several ripening fibre flax seed bolls. “…Numerous tests have demonstrated that bee pollination enhances seed productions in fiber flax…” www.zoommicroscope.com/flax-pollination.html

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project PORTABLE BAST FIBRE DECORTICATOR: Internationally there is a movement to decentralize bast fibre decortification processes and increasingly portable units may be employed by a farmer or s group of farmers.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. David Stinson feeding water retted fibre flax plant into new Hill Agra Machinery Ltd. multi-fluted roller decorticator.

PORTABLE HAMMER MILL: The Hammer mill was developed replacing the 600 ft long breaker roll production line. A fixed based mill with hammer mill began operation in 1953 followed by a trailer mounted mill in 1956. This allowed relocation of the mill to the various locations where quality straw grew minimizing straw transportation costs. However, it wasn’t until 1970 that a single trailer mounted “Mini Mill” was developed allowing processing at individual farm fields (processing began in Canada in 1974). FlaxStalk, Natural Fiber Solutions, PO Box 1039, 340 Airport Drive, Winkler, Manitoba, R6W 4B1. http://dev.flaxstalk.ca/

PORTABLE PYROLIS MACHINE: “…Using a process called pyrolysis, agricultural, forestry and food residues, such as corn stover and cobs, wood branches, bark, grasses and so on (e.g. flax shives), produce a bio-oil which can be further refined to make insecticides, pesticides, pharmaceuticals and engine fuels (as examples), a solid called bio-char which is recognized for its ability to act as an effective fertilizer while reducing greenhouse gas emissions, and heat (gas) which is used to provide the energy to enable the pyrolysis…” http://www.icfar.ca/content/what-we-doA portable pyrolysis unit is being developed by The Institute for Chemicals and Fuels from Alternative Resources, (ICFAR), Western University Canada, Environmental Sciences Western.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project PRODUCTS OF FIBRE FLAX

Dewilde

PULLING: Traditionally flax was hand pulled as can be witnessed in the 1944 Irish film From a Wee Blue Blossom. Today fibre flax is pulled with sophisticated self propelled puller machines such as manufactured by Depoortre in Belgium. Today part of the cottonizing fibre flax industry “cuts corners on quality” and employs drum mowers to cut the flax plants as close to the ground as possible.

“…Flax fibres undergo a certain amount of lignification as they grow older, that is, they become hard and more brittle instead of remaining soft and silky. Flax, therefore, should be pulled before this lignification process has gone too far. The best yield of both fibre and oil may be obtained if the crop is pulled exactly in the middle period between flowering and final ripening. When the lower half of the stem is yellow and the leaves have fallen off, the crop may be considered as ready for harvesting. It is easy to determine when, on an average, the first seed-boll on each plant is ripe by crushing it between the fingers. The sap has all been absorbed, and the brown seeds will fall out readily. It is also easy to estimate roughly when half the capsules are ripe by pulling up a plant and counting the ripe and unripe seed-bolls present. It will be a good plan to pull between these limits, that is, after the first seed-boll has ripened and before half the seed-bolls are ripe…” (Adams)

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians: including their ... - Google Books Result John Gardner Wilkinson - 1841

National Geographic Magazine Flax Harvesting, "Sennedjem"’s tomb, Ancient Egypt. Ancient and contemporary Egyptian hand pulling fibre flax.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Sophie Dawson hand pulling fibre flax plants.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project PULLING MACHINES: The first flax pulling machine was invented by a Canadian, John Magill, in 1921 patent Application No. CA 213148.

Photo credit: Bernie Zuk. NRC, SK

Modern flax pulling machines such as the Depoortre deposit the pulled flax in two rows.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project RAKING ROLLED FLAX STRAW

Alvin Ulrich. “Growing For the Market”: Quality Feedstock for Fiber

RETTING: Breaking down of the pectin layer, which glues the fibre bundles to the stem, by micro- organisms. 1: to soak or expose (as flax or hemp) to moisture in order to promote the loosening of the fiber from the woody tissue by bacterial action; also: to treat chemically for loosening of the fiber from the woody tissue. 2: to rot or injure by exposure to moisture intransitive verb: to become retted: undergo loosening of the fiber from the woody tissue after soaking. The process by which fibres are separated from the outer epidermis and the lower inner core. The pectins which bind the fibre bundles to each other and to woody core are dissolved.

DOUBLE RETTING: In double retting, a gentle process producing excellent fibre, the stalks are removed from the water before retting is completed, dried for several months, and then retted again.

DEW RETTING OR FIELD RETTING: After pulling the flax plants are spread out on the field (ground) or meadow (grass) to be retted by the interaction of microscopic bacteria, warm air, (oxygen) and dew or rain moisture (water).

WATER RETTING: Bundles of stalks are steeped in water in either slow-running rivers, ponds or tanks, The water, penetrating to the central stalk portion, swells the inner cells, bursting the outermost layer, thus increasing absorption of both moisture and decay-producing bacteria. Retting time must be carefully judged; under-retting makes separation difficult, and over-retting weakens the fibre. The retting period varies from three days to a week or a little more, depending on the temperature of the water. Has virtually disappeared in Europe but is still practiced in Egypt and China.

TANK OR RETTING CHAMBER: first a scour with cold water ¼ day to 8 hours, drain and ret in tepid water (30-32°C) for 3 to 5 days.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Vlasbedrijf Mommerency Gebrs. Ingelmunster, Belgium

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Vlasbedrijf Mommerency Gebrs. Ingelmunster, Belgium Stefaan Mommerency, checking retting progress by breaking retted fibre flax plant several inches apart to see if flax fibre bundles easily separate from shive.

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Photo credits: Helmut Becker. Retting adequate when flax bundles are easily separated.

OPEN RETTING PONDS/PITS: (traditionally) full of stagnant water for 8-14 days

BLUE RETTING OR RETTING IN STAGNANT WATER: Fibre flax is placed in a water filled pit and covered with sods and mud so that it obtains a blue tint.

RUNNING WATER RETTING: Immerse bundles of fibre flax in weighted down crates in running river water. 7 to 10 days (against the law today - results in extreme pollution)

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Fibre flax running water retting in river Lys, Belgium. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. Loading crate with beets of fibre flax to submerge in river Lys, Belgium to running water ret.

CHEMICAL RETTING: Refers to the use of chemicals in the tank retting system to shorten the retting process. (– may seriously affect the strength and colour of the fibre) Traditional methods: use of soda ash, xalic soda or caustic soda in warm water or use of dilute sulphuric acid in boiling water).

ENZYME RETTING: Extensive research is being done internationally (including NRC, Canada) on different methods of enzyme retting as well as treatments both on field and in tanks. Extremely promising but key obstacle to date is cost factors. Of late this has improved and may soon become commercially viable.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project STEAM EXPLOSION FIBRE EXTRACTION: The decorticated fibre bundles are impregnated with NaOH at a concentration range of 0.1–releasing the surplus base, the material is subjected to saturated steam. According to the specified steam treatment, the material is extruded into a cyclone by suddenly opening of the extrusion valve at the defined release pressure. The degraded materials, like pectin, hemicellulose etc. are then extracted by an alkaline scouring “…After the steam explosion of flax, the fibre doesn't look like flax anymore. Due to such treatment, the product looses its authentic character…” Prof. Ryszard Kozlowski,

RIPPLING: or threshing is the process of removing flax seeds from the rest of the flax plant before the flax stems are retted.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium.

ROLLER:

Alvin Ulrich. “Growing For the Market”: Quality Feedstock for Fiber

ROTATION (CROP): Flax should be grown in a crop rotation. Should only recur every 6th or 7th year. E.g. Belgium: Sugar beets, barley, corn, peas, potatoes and wheat alternate. In Ontario a 4-year rotation: wheat- flax-corn-soybean. Best after a cereal crop.

SCOURING: The process of cleaning raw stock, yarns, or cloth specifically: the removal of impurities (as natural grease and foreign substances) from raw wool usually by a series of washings in soap, alkalis, or chemical solvents. The treatment of textile materials in aqueous or other solutions to remove all additives, i.e. pesticides, starch, (sizing) natural fats, waxes and proteins, oils and rot-proofing agents as well as dirt and impurities. Scouring by boiling with soda or degummed with dilute bleach solution. When flax fibres are scoured they retain their natural grayish beige color; when degummed with bleach they become an off- white cottony color. However when flax fibres are scoured or bleached they become finer and stronger and can thus be spun into finer, more expensive yarns.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPE:

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Earth Sciences Department, UWO. Scanning Electron Microscope. Research project: Hand papermaking plant fibres. Helmut Becker. Bleached fibre flax magnified 1000x

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Earth Sciences Department, UWO. Scanning Electron Microscope. Research project: Hand papermaking plant fibres. Helmut Becker. Bleached linen magnified 200 xs

SCUTCHING OR SWINGLING: To separate the woody fiber from (flax or hemp) by beating. A mechanical process to separate the retted fibres from the woody core. Traditionally a scutching board and scutching knife were employed. Beating the fibres after breaking to remove the broken woody stem.

L’Industrie Textile Le Lin. Dictionnaire

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

(Dewilde) Scutching blades

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. Scutching fibre flax with wooden scotching knife and scotching board

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium Flemmish scutching Wheel

Scutching drum (Akin)

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project SCUTCHING LINE MILL:

“…The flax scutching lines DEPOORTERE are elaborated starting from standard machinery which is then adapted to the needs of our clients by our study-office…” http://www.depoortere.be/

VAN DOMMELE ENGINEERING, Belgium. Sophisticated bast fibre processing lines http://www.vandommele.be/

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project SEED CLEANING FAN MILL: SEED SCREENING TO SEPARATE BROKEN FLAX BOLL CHAFF:

Photo credits: Helmut Becker. Screening fibre flax seeds from broken Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. seed boll chaff.

SEED HARVESTING MACHINE:

Depoortre flax seed harvesting machine and turning machine

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project SEEDING FIBRE FLAX:

Sowing density recommended 1800 seeds per square meter. (Daenekindt) Terre de Lin recommends e.g. for fibre flax variety Marilyn: 2000 seeds per m2. “…Seed Quantity To obtain a good fiber quality is a regular state density of great importance. To achieve an optimum plant density of 2000 plants per m2 required. Good Average Poor Conditions Conditions Conditions 5.0 100 kg /ha 103 kg / ha 105 kg / ha 5.5 110 kg / ha 113 kg / ha 116 kg / ha 6.0 120 kg / ha 124 kg / ha 126 kg / ha 6.5 130 kg / ha 134 kg / ha 136 kg / ha At a relatively late sowing (after mid-April [Flanders]) should be considered lower seed quantities. (± 5%)

Hand broadcasting fibre flax seed mixed Sowing fibre flax seed with a flax fiddle broadcaster. with sand. Photo credits: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project METHOD OF SOWING: “… Flax seed is generally sown broadcast, and it will be advisable to sow when there is no wind. If sown by hand, great care will be necessary to have the distribution uniform, as the seed is so slippery…” (Adams)

Hand broadcasting fibre flax seed mixed with sand. “…When using hand method, it is best to mix the quantity of seed to be sown with a quantity of filler material such as fine sand. This provides for more even distribution of the seed. If 2 lbs. of seed are to be sown, about 6 lbs. of filler are mixed thoroughly with it. More accuracy and even distribution of seed will result if at least two passes over the plot are made, one pass at right angles to the other…” from a set of notes on FIBRE FLAX CULTURE from Upper Canada Village, Morrisburg, ON. Photo credits: Helmut Becker.

Fibre flax seed and a cyclone seeder. Broadcasting fibre flax seed with a cyclone seeder.

SEEDER MULTI-ROW: Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Peter Duenk, Manager of Environmental Sciences Western Field Station, seeding fibre flax seed using a multi-row custom built seeding machine.

Heller Fibre flax seed sowing. (drilling and strip sowing) Sowing density (2,200 – 2,800 seeds per square meter)

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

SESSILE; a plant structure attached directly by its base without a stalk.

SESSILE FLAX: ... an herbaceous plant genus of the family Linaceae with small sessile leaves.

SHIVE OR SHIV: Splinter or fragment of the husk of flax or hemp. The woody core is released during fibre extraction. Woody parts of the core of the stem, which are formed by breaking.

SLIVER: Hackled hanks of line fibre can be converted into a continuous ‘sliver’ by laying them end over end on a spread board. A sliver is an assemblage of flax fibres in a continuous form without twist

SISAL: Etymology: Mexican Spanish, from Sisal, Yucatán, Mexico 1: a also sisal hemp: a strong durable white fiber that is three to five feet long and is used for hard fiber cordage and for binder twine b : a West Indian agave (Agave sisalana) whose leaves yield sisal for which it is widely cultivated (as in Java, East Africa, the Bahama islands, and Mexico) 2: a fiber derived from any of various plants (as henequen, false sisal) related to sisal

SIZE: The handloom weaver sizes the warp in starch mixture for smoother running.

SOFT FIBRES: Stem fibres such as flax, hemp, Jute and ramie. A very important group of soft fibres, generically known as bast, include flax, hemp, ... A third category of soft fibres is exemplified by the seedhair and seedpod.

SOIL ANALYSIS TEST:

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Caroline Rasenberg securing soil samples for soil analysis. The lab analysis will provide a profile of the nature of the soil and will help determine fertilizer needs.

SPINDLE: A spindle is a wooden spike (known as the shaft) used for spinning wool, flax, hemp, cotton, and other fibres into thread. It is commonly weighted at either the bottom (sometimes called a drop spindle) middle or top, most commonly by a circular or spherical object called a whorl, and may also have a hook, groove or notch, though spindles without these are also common. Spindle whorls have been found in archaeological digs around the world. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium. A variety of antique spindles used for spinning flax fibre.

SPINNING:

WET SPINNING: The rove passes through a warm water trough before drafting. The flax fibre rove is twisted and then passed through a small container of heated water before being taken up by the spinning mechanism.

DRY SPINNING: The rove is simply twisted and taken up directly by the spinning mechanism. Tow is usually dry spun. (N.B. 100% flax yarns cannot be spun on cotton, wool or synthetic spinning machines but require specific flax spinning machinery.)

SPINNING WHEEL:

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax and Linen Museum, Kortrijk, Belgium.

STOOKS: Traditionally the tied bundles of pulled fibre flax plants, called beets, were stooked, 12 beets formed 1 stook.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project STRICK: A strick is a bundle of fiber that is ready to be converted into a sliver. An example of strick is a bundle of flax.

STRIPPER HEADER:

Alvin Ulrich. “Growing For the Market”: Quality Feedstock for Fiber Harvest the seed flax with a stripper header cut as high as possible to retain long straw to harvest subsequently for fibre.

SWISS LAKE DWELLERS: Swiss Lake Dwellers successfully cultivated flax for fibre.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Drawings of flax thread, string and rope Swiss Lake Dweller artifacts. Printed by stone lithography. Keller, Ferdinand. (Translation John Edward Lee.) The Lake Dwellings of Switzerland

TECHNICAL FIBRES: Thin long fibres consisting of 10 to 40 elementary fibres in diameter, which are the product from hackling the fibre bundles.

TEDDING: Turning or tedding dew retting flax.

TEDDING-POLE: The long stick used for turning or tedding flax.

TENTERING, crabbing, and heat-setting: These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven fabrics at right angles to each other, and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions. Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame, consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric, and travelling on tracks. As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric is dried to its final size.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project TILLERING: can result in profuse branching on the main shoot or the production of flowering tillers which could delay crop maturation and make harvesting difficult. The types grown for flax fibre are generally slender tall-growing, non-tillering, and sparingly branched. Those grown for seed are usually dwarf in habit, much-branched, and profusely tillering.

TOW: Short fibres (shorter than 30 cm), which are separated inadvertently from the fibre bundles together with the shives by the scutching process.

Flax Tow Scutching Machine. CHARLE.

1. 1 Feeding shaker 2. 2 Breaker with 7 pairs of rollers 3. 1 Feeding shaker 4. 1 Scutching turbine 12 shafts 5. 1 Steep breaking shaker 6. 1 Horizontal shaker 7. 1 Scutching turbine 12 shafts 8. 1 Steep breaking shaker 9. 1 Final shaker 10. Motors - 3f x220/380V - 50 Hz

Not included: 1 Electric switchboard * Aspiration / cyclone / Blowpipes * Dustcaps and funnels Price: 24.500,-euro af fabriek

TRIFFID: Flax variety FP967, otherwise known as, CDC Triffid a Canadian genetically modified seed flax variety is not authorized for food or feed in the EU and stands condemned, As a consequence it has been totally discontinued in Canada.

TUFGEN: (The Total Utilization of Flax Genomics) TUFGEN investigates flax performance by looking at the DNA sequence of the entire genome, and develops genetic and physical maps outlining the relationship of genes important for improving flax usefulness.

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project TURNING: When dew retting, the fibre flax almost certainly needs to be turned several times. This exposes the side which was on the ground to the light in order to allow complete and even retting. Traditionally this process was performed with a slightly curved rod, about nine feet long, and an inch and a half in diameter. The rod is passed under the flax towards the top end, and then gently turned over.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Turning dew retting fibre flax plants with a pointed pole

“…During dew retting, the stems on the top of the swath take more moisture from rain or dew than those located on the bottom. They also dry faster between rains. This causes notable difference in retting between stems in top and bottom part of the swath. To improve the quality of obtained raw material the swath of straw is turned over – 2 or 3 times…” Natural Fibres used for bio-composites. Parkowa 4. 46-100 Namysłów, POLAND E-mail: [email protected] http://www.ekotex.com.pl

Fibre flax turner Dehondt 2010

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project ULTIMATE FIBRE: The ultimate flax fibre is a long straight tube, the lumen of which is very small; the fibre is intersected at regular intervals by nodes or knots and the surface is characteristically distinguished by cross lines.

WARP: Preparing the warp threads. After the flax fibres have been spun into a thread or yarn they are then ready to be woven. The simplest form of weaving is the 'tabby weave' where one weft thread (pick) passes over and under the warp.

WEAVING: The interlacing at right angles of two or more flexible materials, of which the longitudinal are called warp, and the transverse weft. The process by which the spun threads of cotton, flax, silk, or wool are formed into fabrics of different kinds. The simplest is plain weaving, in which the weft goes alternately over and under the warp threads.

Photo credit: Helmut Becker. Flax Loom weaving linen cloth.

WEFT: The threads which cross the warp threads at right angles (usually) during the weaving process.

WINNOWING: involves separating seed from the chaff of the seed cases.

XYLEM: A complex tissue in the vascular system of higher plants consisting of vessels, tracheids, or both usually together with wood fibers and parenchyma cells, functioning chiefly in conduction but also in support and storage, and typically constituting the woody element (as of a plant stem).

Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project GLOSSARY OF TERMS REFERENCES

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Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project The Effect of Fibre Flax Growing Technologies on Ontogenesis and Cultivars Yielding Capacity. 2008 International Conference on Flax and Other Bast Plants. (ISBN #978-0-9809664-0-4). 315. www.saskflax.com/documents/fb_papers/64_Heller.pdf

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Kalia, Susheel Editor. Cellulose Fibers: Bio- and Nano-Polymer Composites: Green Chemistry and Technology. Springer. May 12, 2011. Hardcover.

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Manufacturing Terms. The most comprehensive list of manufacturing terms, definitions and Acronyms on the internet. www.manufacturingterms.com/

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Helmut Becker, Research Information Coordinator Reintroduction of Fibre Flax from Field to Finished Product in Midwestern Ontario Labour Market Partnerships Project