Center of Portugal World Heritage Sites Center of Portugal World Heritage Sites

Travel Guide Center of Portugal World Heritage Sites Center of Portugal World Heritage Sites

The Center of Portugal is a vast, rich and diverse region that tells stories about our history and reveals secrets and mysteries to the most observant eyes and the most attentive ears. This is the land where the future was conquered and promises were fulfilled. This is the land that established knowledge and perpetuated love. This is a universal land. This is the land that awaits you. Discover it with us from its four UNESCO World Heritage sites. N 0 E S

Porto Three days in Alcobaça P. 5

Three days in Batalha 3 Coimbra P. 29

Three days in

2 Batalha Coimbra 1 Alcobaça 4 Tomar P. 51

Three days in Tomar P. 75 Lisboa 5 Three days in Alcobaça

Having its origins umbilically connected to the independence of the recently proclaimed Kingdom of Portugal, the Santa Maria de Alcobaça Monastery is much more than one of the primordial symbols of Portuguese nationality. A gothic wonder that soars and expresses itself in undeniable forms of magnificence, purity and beauty, the Alcobaça Monastery is also a shrine of the most celebrated Portuguese love story. Unravel its mysteries and use it as a starting point for discovering a unique area, sweet flavors and the scents of wine and apples. 6 7

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VCI Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 1. Alcobaça Monastery 4. Alcobaça Wine Museum Alcobaça Confectionery 5. Parque dos Monges (Monks Park) 2. Levada of Alcobaça Reed Baskets and Chita de Alcobaça Alcobaça Apples 6. Village of Aljubarrota 3. Jardim do Amor (Love Garden) Ginja de Alcobaça (Cherry Liqueur) 7. Santa Maria de Cós Monastery Frango na Púcara (Typical Dish of Chicken) 9 Alcobaça: Day 1 - rooms. It was also known as the Cloister It was also known as the Cloister rooms. tise of the ancient monks who worked with worked who monks ancient of the tise the other main access to gives therefore, it in silence as a demonstration of their love love of their demonstration a as it in silence Room), where you Room), can you where find statues of the KingThe forgotten. were Rumor has it they Portuguese the exper carved by monarchs Dinis Cloister was the firstto be built and, of Silence because monks walked around around of Silence because monks walked for the Rule. Don´t miss out on the hidden clay. Note that the Spanish kings are missing. Note that the Spanish kings are clay. -

like to admire the altar, to pray or simply pray to the altar, admire to like to take pictures. Typical of the Cistercian of the Cistercian Typical pictures. take to is to say, you can go in as often as you go in as often as you can you say, is to First of all, you should know that the admis the that know should you of all, First Pedro King of tombs the where Monastery, out for it doesn’t need wealthy ornaments out for it doesn’t God. reach or images to Order, the simplicity of the church stands stands the simplicity of the church Order, and Lady Inês de Castro are, are free. That free. are are, Castro Inês de Lady and sion and tour to the Church of the Alcobaça the Church to sion and tour Fall in love in the Alcobaça Monastery The visit starts visit The (Kings’ Reis dos Sala in the

Alcobaça

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and shared on social media. Monastery and the love of modern days, padlocked days, padlocked Monastery and the love of modern de Castro, which has been perpetuated in the in the de Castro, which has been perpetuated for love. The love of King Pedro and Lady Inês for love. The love of King Pedro The first day of this trip through Alcobaça is reserved Alcobaça is reserved The first day of this trip through

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details on the walls, reminders and inten- kitchen. Let’s return to the Church and to itself nor with its founders. Was this an for either of these options, you can simply tions for prayer. We move on to the Sala the highlight of this visit: the tombs of King act of recognition for the King´s support purchase a complementary program, which do Capítulo (Capitulum Room) and to the Pedro and Lady Inês de Castro, placed lying of the Order, or did King Pedro assert his provides a good support for you to discover Dormitório Comum (Common Dormitory), in front of each other so that, when they sovereign role to ensure that he would stay the Monastery. on the top floor, where from a window, that rise in the afterlife, they shall face each next to his beloved? This is the starting once gave direct access to the Church, you other. Be dazzled by the carved details of point that we first suggest you and that can see the immortal tombs of King Pedro each tomb that tell stories and describe the greatly contributed to the recognition of this and Lady Inês de Castro. The Refectory is lives of Kings and Queens, testimonies of place as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in linked to the impressive Kitchen due to the betrayal and revenge and, above all, of love. 1989. If you prefer, you can opt for one of considerable size of the chimney. Get your Here’s a curiosity: the placement of these the guided tours at the ticket office, which legs ready and take the tight spiral stairs tombs in a church of the Cistercian Order take place at 11 am and at 4 pm. There is a that lead to the upper floor, from where is an exception, as this had never happened thematic tour at 3 pm, although the topics you can admire a breath-taking view of the before, neither with members of the Order change every day. If you don´t have time 13 Alcobaça: Day 1

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Get lost in the Levada de Alcobaça Celebrate love and Parque Verde in the Historic Center Upon leaving the Monastery – and in order can find – in addition to theLevada ´s struc- The country´s greatest love story does not end and an Alcobaça apple, as well as a small to make the most of Cistercian life still fresh tures – other remains of that period, such at the tombs of its main characters. Walking papyrus where lovers can swear their eter- in our memories –, we head to the Levada as fountains. The Levada is followed by the around the center of Alcobaça, there are plenty nal love. It can be purchased at the tourist of Alcobaça, the monastery´s water supply Parque Verde and its pedestrian route, which of invitations to find out more about the love office or in local shops. Right next door, you system. In Rua Costa Veiga, you can still connects “New Alcobaça” and the Jardim of Pedro and Inês. In Jardim do Amor, out- will find several ceramic pieces included in see the complex that includes the Levada, do Obelisco, in the Monastery, and follows side the Municipal Library, two thrones, the the Percurso Camoniano – Pedro and Inês a large channel and the drinking water the watercourse between the Alcoa River symbols of royalty, create the setting for a made in Alcobaça Ceramic. Resulting of a pipeline. If you want to know more details and the Levada. Enjoy the wide green area, photoshoot, right in front of a large iron heart. partnership between Design students and the about this system that was of primordial the open-air amphitheater and everything Don´t be surprised by the small safes on local ceramics companies, these pieces are importance in the lives of the Cistercian that may please the youngsters (and others, the walls - one can be yours. The Love Kit an interpretation of Inês de Castro´s episode Order, head to Bairro Lameirão, where you of course). includes a padlock, keys, ginja (cherry liqueur) in Os Lusíadas, written by Luís Vaz de Camões. 16 17 Alcobaça Alcobaça: Day 2 Alcobaça: Day 2 Day 2

A toast to the local wine at the Wine Museum Regarding the tour to what is considered on display, including a garden dedicated to as one of the best and most complete wine Bacchus, the Roman version of the Greek museums in Portugal, we can give you the Dionysus, the god of this nectar. A well-spent We dedicate the second visiting day to gastronomy best reason to go there and to smile: the visit morning with a glass in your hand makes and to secular traditions that still play a major role in includes wine tasting. Now that you have a it worth it. smile on your face, we can move on. The the local life nowadays. We start the day by getting to Alcobaça Wine Museum is located at the know Alcobaça wines and, then, lose track of the time ancient wine cellar of José Eduardo Raposo de Magalhães, dated from the 19th century, in the historic center, where you´ll find chita and and has more than ten thousand objects reed baskets. related to the process of wine production 19 Alcobaça: Day 2 - at thechita at which has become a motifs used on chita tradi The Alcobaça. from brand recognized the hands of local artisans on by tion lives and modernizing and designers, who are at the Chita the patterns, keeping innovating heart the annual In addition to of local life. ball and contest at São Martinho do Porto’s Alcobaça´s find can you beach, to shops. It´s hard craft and souvenir local it’s pattern. Maybe favorite choose one’s them all. take better to

- , you should, you If while strolling through the streets of streets the through If while strolling chita come across Alcobaça you Chita souvenir. know that it is another great India from brought fabric cotton printed is a In the Portugueseby in the 15th century. Alcobaça, it became part of the of the lives locals in the following century Gil and even “Farsa noted that habit in his play Vicente pat The richly colored ”. Almocreves dos terns, with birds, flowers, animals, fruits, traditional are nests, even and cornucopias are some of some are Santa Marta Santa suit all tastes. models to are , of Portuguese European in many visit cards in New arrived already capitals, and have the to traditional the most From Zealand. there most colourful, straps, without with and Senhora da Luz da Senhora and Rita Santa the names of the collections that also act they since as ambassadors for the region, in the village where the churches to refer who Freitas, of António Nuno, the grandson still lives. the famous brand, name to gives - - -

Castanheira, Alcobaça, the reed baskets by baskets the reed Alcobaça, Castanheira, the role play region, typical of the Abel, Toino you’ve already heard of one of the most pop heard already you’ve village of in the Handcrafted ular brands. and shapes at the several traditional handi traditional and shapes at the several But maybe Alcobaça. shops, in central craft venirs. As far as reed baskets are concerned, are baskets As far as reed venirs. sizes tastes, all of options for plenty are there One of the joys of traveling and discovering discovering and traveling of joys the of One new places is bringing back unforgettable sou with suitcase your filling and memories

Fill your suitcase with souvenirs

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Immerse yourself in the local cuisine We cannot talk about Alcobaça without men- In the surroundings of the Monastery, take tioning the apples that are produced here. In a peek at the Alcôa and its delicacies made We cannot leave Alcobaça without tasting its desserts, jams and even as a side dish, it is from egg yolks, sugar and seasonal and dried gastronomy, from confectionery to ginja, not to important to know that they are the result of fruits. But don´t forget the delicious local ginja mention the apples, of course. The theme park about a secular “know-how” that originated from the (cherry liqueur). In addition to the famous Ginja Cistercian monks, who were pioneers of its M.S.R, created in 1930, there are many other the Cistercian Order daily life and the small village of study. Also born within the conventual life was relevant brands that are worth taking home. Aljubarrota will give kids good reasons to smile. On the famous Alcobaça confectionery. Its repu- Pay attention to references to local production, tation has grown thanks to the secrecy of the of course. And never refuse Frango na Púcara, Day 3 the way out, we get to discover another hardly known ingredients and secular traditions and is now a typical dish of chicken cooked with onions, Day 3 cistercian pearl of this region. prize-winning both nationally and internationally. bacon and pork belly. Eat as much as you can. 23 Alcobaça: Day 3 - the Pillory, the Clock Tower and the Núcleo the and Tower Clock the Pillory, the some of are Artede Aljubarrota de Sacra can you that the many points of interest visit, the Alcobaça tour ease your To visit. appointment. by tours organizes office ist there book a tour, don´t manage to If you is a guide with all of the information you City Council website. need on Alcobaça´s com Aljubarrota for “Rota de Just search Brites de Almeida”. - São

, the churches of , the churches ality? Although this ality? Although Padeira de Aljubarrota de Padeira Celebrate Portuguese nationality in Aljubarrota know that it was with the Battle Did you (1385) that the Portugueseof Aljubarrota asserted their nation milesone in the History of Portugal has taken the center from place six kilometers away of Alcobaça, this Battle is deeply connected Monastery. construction of Batalha the with dis curiosities to more way are But there statueThe iconic in this small village… cover of , dos Prazeres Vicente and Nossa Senhora , “live” in , “live” dos Doces Conventuais Museu fun doesn´t end here: there are shows at are there fun doesn´t end here: all times and, for the delight of the whole outdoor activities extreme are there family, climbing, a slide,such canoeing as and rock property. the that runs through train a even the the a medieval village, interact with animals in with animals interact village, a medieval and indigenous discover and even the zoo . But Bíblico the species in the Jardim exotic

- Parque dos Monges

Parque Parque ages, all for fun for looking you´re If

Please the kids and grown-ups in the to recreate life in the ancient Cistercian in the ancient Cistercian life recreate to at confectionery can prepare You Order. Quinta Quinta At can spend the night here. you a chance offered are visitors Freiras, das animation and accommodation. Yes, you got you Yes, accommodation. and animation want because as long as you that right: take experiences in six different domains: envi domains: in six different experiences thematic, adventure, zoological, ronmental, is a great option. Besides an dos Monges is a great unique this park offers travel, time incredible

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Silentium Est Aureum Santa Maria de Cós Monastery The expression “silence is golden” fits per- of the Alcobaça Monastery, although both was a way of not disturbing the moment origin of the Portuguese expression “(isso) fectly with Santa Maria de Cós Monastery. monuments belong to the same religious of introspection and contact with God. The são favas contadas” (referring to an event Anyone who passes by this 13th-century order. Here, Cistercian nuns lived in a closed tour goes on through the sacristy, covered or fact rendered certain). Returning to the relic has no idea of the beauty that hides order, as is typical of female monasteries. with 18th-century tiles that represent pas- outside, notice the two cloisters, destroyed inside. The doors are usually closed but Do not let amazement cloud your vision sages from the life of St. Bernard, including upon the abolition of the religious orders there is always someone waiting at the shop and notice the crosses on the stones of the some temptations, which was unusual at the in Portugal. Despite its state of ruin, it is across the street, Coz Arts, ready to open altars, signs of a Via Sacra, and the apples time. As for Cistercian nuns, they gathered impossible to be indifferent to the charm them and guide you through the tour. Cós next to the Angels, evidence of the impor- for prayer at least seven times a day and of this historic monument, which is even Monastery stands for deafening silence. tance of that fruit already at that time in held democratic and secret elections using more precious because it has not yet been Day 3 The colorful decoration stands out, sur- the region. Note the aesthetic balance: the fava beans painted in white and gold. It is fully discovered by visitors. Day 3 prising for its contrast with the simplicity doors and altars are alike on both sides. This said that this monastic tradition was the 26 27 There is a fountain in the kitchen of the Alcobaça Did you Monastery where, rumour has it, fish was caught for Alcobaça meals. Alcobaça know that…

You can find some small, narrow doors in the refectory of the Alcobaça Monastery. By restricting themselves to eating and pray- ing, the monks began to put on weight and, thus, it was necessary to open additional passages to the kitchen.

The monks who worked with clay carved the Portuguese kings in the Sala dos Reis of the Alcobaça Monastery. If you look closely, you will notice that the Spanish kings have been - conveniently - forgotten. 29 Three days in Batalha

The Convent of Santa Maria da Vitória, known nowadays as Monastery of Batalha, is a construction that represents the gratitude of a king towards the Virgin Mary for the emancipation of the Portuguese people and for the victory at the Battle of Aljubarrota. Using irrefutable technical, architectural and artistic innovations, the Monastery of Batalha also perpetuates the creative genius of mankind. Leave the Monastery and explore the area which nature and history have made special. 31 Batalha

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Interpretativo da Batalha de Aljubarrota (CIBA) da Batalha de Aljubarrota Interpretativo (scientific and environmental interpretation center) interpretation environmental and (scientific Grutas da Moeda (Cave) Cavacas de Reguengo do Fetal (Sweet) de Reguengo do Fetal Cavacas

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Discover the Monastery of Batalha The Monastery of Batalha, a UNESCO World oldest stained-glass windows in the country, Heritage Site since 1983, impresses right dated from the 15th century. According to Did you know that it was with the Battle of Aljubarrota away thanks to its wide main entrance por- St. Augustine’s Rules, and like other reli- (1385) that the Portuguese asserted their nationality? tico. The tour to this former Dominican mon- gious orders, the monks could not have Although this milesone in the History of Portugal astery begins at the Church, which holds the material possessions. However, due to the title of Portugal’s highest church, with 32 nonexistent of villages in the immediate has taken place six kilometers away from the center meters. Why it is it so high? Because during surroundings of the monastery that could of Alcobaça, this Battle is deeply connected with the its construction, in 1386, it was believed contribute to their expenses, either through that the higher the building, the closer to charity or donations, a special permission construction of Batalha Monastery. But there are way God. Moreover, it was the first church to was asked from the King so they could be more curiosities to discover in this small village… be built entirely out of stone and has the granted land in order to survive. The first 34 35 Batalha: Batalha: Day 1 Day 1

room on the right is one of the most impor- buried in that room. Notice the difference became shrouded in a legend, the Legend without finishing the tour. Here, where you tant: the Founder´s Chapel, built by King João between Lord Henrique´s tomb and that of the Vaulted Roof. According to it, Master can enjoy a garden with flowerbeds and I. The construction of this national pantheon of his brothers. Because of his role during Afonso Domingues (or the King himself, trees, were once cloisters with chambers and brought along several innovations, such as the Discoveries, he was awarded funeral according to another version) remained a library. This is the way to the Unfinished the English tradition of spouses being buried honors worthy of a king. under the vault for three days to make sure Chapels, formerly made from the inside. together (Lady Philippa of Lancaster, his The Royal Cloister, also gothic, is the heart of that it wouldn’t collapse. Interestingly, by King Duarte bought the land and began wife, was English). The attention to detail the Monastery and gives access to another the time the construction works were con- its construction in a Gothic style and King derives from the Gothic style and all the important space, the Capitulum (or Chapter) cluded, the king had already passed away, Manuel later redecorated the windows. It is, tombs, of kings and their children, display Room. Pay attention to the clock so you but the Portuguese preferred to “bring him therefore, a perfect blend of styles, where an epitaph that depicts their deeds in life. don’t miss the changing of the guard, back” rather than to recognize the merit of the tombs of King Duarte and his wife now The children’s tombs surround their parents’ which happens every hour, in honor of the a foreign architect. In the meantime, we reside, although it is uncertain that they graves, with the exception of King Duarte, Unknown Soldier. Underneath this room is pass through the austere but functional occupy the position desired by the king. whose tomb is in the Unfinished Chapels, the largest vaulted roof. At the time, it was Cloister D. Afonso V, the ultimate symbol since King João I wanted to be the only king such a breakthrough that its construction of Dominican life, and leave the Monastery 37 Batalha: Day 1

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Wander through Taste regional delicacies the historic center At the time the Monastery was built, there visitors. If you´re travelling with children, Those who say that sightseeing doesn’t in local restaurants, especially in soups. If were no people living in Batalha, so the town spend some time in the most central green leave one famished can hardly be taken you want to take it with you for your family grew around the monument. The historic spaces, such as Jardim do Lena and Jardim seriously. In Batalha, you eat and drink in to try, you can find it for sale in most local center is worth visiting due to the number dos Infantes, which the youngsters enjoy. quantity and with quality. One of the most butchers. Be sure to try the award-winning of historical landmarks that can be found The Museu da Comunidade Concelhia da famous regional delicacies is “morcela de wines produced at the Adega Cooperativa here; but the best way to ensure you don’t Batalha, awarded with national and inter- arroz” (black pudding made with rice), which da Batalha, which since 1959 has been miss a thing is to ask for a map at the Tourist national prizes, portrays the life of Batalha is also known as “branca”. Traditionally from taking advantage of the slopes of Serras Office, right next to the Monastery. Look at since its geological, paleontological and Reguengo do Fetal, it is made with rice and d´Aire. For dessert, try Pudim da Batalha, the façade of the Igreja Matriz da Exaltação archaeological origins, covering the most meat but, unlike many other versions – also with almonds and eggs. de Santa Cruz, with an impressive portico important historical and artistic milestones. produced in this region - blood isn’t part of dated from 1502 that is much admired by the equation. Boiled or grilled, it is common 40 41 Batalha Batalha: Day 2 Batalha: Day 2 Day 2

Awake your senses in Pia do Urso It´s time to put on your walking shoes. The you can start the trail. All of the information second day of this tour through Batalha is is also available in Braille. Along the way, reserved for a visit to Pia do Urso, a small you will find an environmental education village southeast of Batalha. The first stop is station, a station dedicated the Jurassic Get ready to put on your walking shoes on one of the at the Ecoparque Sensorial da Pia do Urso (a period, one about the Battle of Aljubarrota, sensory eco-park). Look for the car park at a viewpoint, a play area and a musical area, most physical days on this itinerary. On foot or by bike, the south entrance and leave the car behind. games and, of course, Pia do Urso. we set off to discover Pia do Urso, a small village a few Go past the picnic area, the playground and the cluster of houses and restaurants that kilometres from the center of Batalha, certain that we make up the small village. Control your urge won´t find any bears along the way (“Urso” means “bear”) to trade the city for this piece of heaven and 42 43 Batalha: Batalha: Day 2 Day 2

Walk the paths of nature Follow the windmills route

Once immersed in the nature of Batalha, kilometers of marked trails. You just have to After the physical activity of this second day, do Urso and, over 6.7 kilometers, takes you there is, indeed, a lot to do. Switch your choose, taking into consideration the effort you´ll be wanting to sleep uninterruptedly for to several windmills, some of which are still means of transport and join us on the next and the time that you want to commit to hours. We´ll leave the bike behind and set out in use. We pass by several windmills, such as adventure. The Centro de BTT (mountain bike this activity - and bearing in mind that the to discover one of the greatest local treasures, the recently rebuilt Moinho do Zé Cuco, Moinho center), the first of the kind recognised by shortest route is 12.5km long and takes the windmills. In all, there are four marked do Manuel Moleiro and Mocho, which has a the Portuguese Cycling Federation, is just one to two hours, and the longest route routes, from 6 to 9.5 kilometers according to privileged view of the São Mamede Chapel and the starting point. You don´t even have to takes up to six or seven hours in order to your wishes and fitness aptitude. ThePercurso follows the path of the 16th-century pilgrims. take the car out of where you left it. There complete the 92.5 kilometers route. But Pedestre Rota dos Moinhos (windmill pedes- Out of the ten windmills that there used to be, are eight routes available: an easy one, a don´t worry: the center has changing rooms trian route), one of the busiest, begins right there are two that can still be seen nowadays, moderate one, three difficult routes and and a showering area and provides minor next to the Hostel Pia do Urso, near the north on a trail that takes approximately three hours two very difficult ones on a total of 365 bike repairs. entrance of the Ecoparque Sensorial da Pia to complete. 44 45 Batalha Batalha: Day 3 Batalha:

Prepare to go home with sweets in your suitcase Bad news first: 1) it’s almost time to go to the story goes, the “Cavacas de Reguengo do next World Heritage Site; 2) one should try Fetal” are part of the “fogaças”, large wooden the sweet pastries known as ‘’cavacas’’, that trays, covered with lace tablecloths used to can only be found during the religious fes- carry different local products. Moreover, We won´t go home without becoming, even if only for a tivals of Senhora do Fetal, in Reguengo do these “cavacas” resemble clouds, both Fetal. Also known as the “Festa dos Caracóis” in appearance, with a white sugar paste few hours, fearless warriors of the Battle of Aljubarrota, (“snails festival”), these festivities are notable coating, and in their lightness. counting down the days to the religious festivals of for their candlelit night processions, with candles made of … snail shells. The good Day 3 Reguengo do Fetal and dive deep into the Earth to find news is that these festivities take place every Day 3 some of the most beautiful sceneries in Batalha year, between September and October. As 47 Batalha: Day 3 area (outside), there are small binoculars are (outside), there area see and imagine what could to that let you happened have in the field andeven the The timeline of the used. tactics that were but the Center, visit inside to battle is free visit a to buy a ticket it is also possible to 30-minute a watch and exhibition weapon have don´t you If battle. the recreating film feel exhibition, for the and video for the time the outside. explore to free (interpretation (interpretation

Be a warrior in Aljubarrota that of 1385 is a subject famous Battle If the Interpretação de Centro the you, fascinates Aljubarrota de Batalha da the Battle of Aljubarrota),center dedicated to will certainly place, it all took built where kilometers away It is just a few please you. of Batalha, in town the center of the from to chance the you Porto gives Mós, and de most our ancestors´ of one about more learn important both Admission is free, victories. first the In areas. inside and outside the to - - caves. caves. (scientific and environmental Ambiental space an interactive center), interpretation fossils, discover can adults and kids where and all types of curiosities con minerals cerning the formation of the Moeda to the cave also includes a video explain also includes a video the cave to ing the formation of this phenomenon. We that includes the the program recommend Científico- Interpretação de the Centro visit to - Moeda

visit promise some of the most beautiful some of the most beautiful visit promise The tour geological scenarios region. in the “moedas”) from a wealthy man and fell into into fell man and a wealthy from “moedas”) can The 350 meters that you the crater. name to a legend that tells a story of a thief a legend that tells a story name to a purse full of coins (in Portuguese,who stole a 45meter descent. They are one of the high of the one are They descent. 45meter a Batalha and owe their lights of any visit to When we say we are going to dive into the into dive going to we are When we say as these being quite literal, depths we are require Mamede in São formations limestone Dive into the depths of

46 Batalha: Day 3 48 49 Did you Batalha Batalha know that…

The Moeda caves owe their name to a legend that tells the story of a thief who In the Chapter Room in the Batalha Monastery, fell into the crater with a purse full of you can findCristo das Trincheiras (Christ of coins that he had just stolen, scattering the Trenches) next to the Monument to the them through the caves. Unknown Soldier. Contrary to what you may think, this piece is not a replica and, for several times, was in actual combat.

The ancient Romans built the city of Collippo, which means “village on a hill”, in the fertile soils of Batalha. Archaeological excavations found an imponent statue of the Roman Magistrate which is on display at the Museu da Comunidade Concelhia da Batalha. Carved in marble, the statue weighs 1200 kilos and is 2.2 meters tall. 51 Three days in

Coimbra

A World Heritage Site since 2013, the University of Coimbra, Alta and Sofia encompasses four architectural and historical centers that refer to the time when they were created, their development, restructuring and the consolidation of the University itself. This renowned center for the creation and disclosure of knowledge, which has extended over seven centuries to the four continents that witnessed the Portuguese Empire, plays the role of a means for cultural dissemination and a generator of new ideas, but above all for the assertion of another universal treasure: the Portuguese Language.

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22 26. Portugal dos Pequenitos 27. Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha of Quinta das Lágrimas 28. Gardens São Francisco 29. Convent beer) (craft 30. Praxis R. Ferreira Borges Ferreira R. Day 2 Câmara Câmara Municipal

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52 Coimbra Mundial Património como UNESCO pela classificada Área 54 55 Coimbra Coimbra: Day 1 Coimbra: Day 1 Day 1

Catch up on your learning at the University of Coimbra Coimbra hosts thousands of tourists every Gabinete de Física (Physics Office) where day – that is no secret. What you may not you can find collections of scientific objects The tour to Coimbra couldn´t start in any other know is that the Biblioteca Geral (General and instruments, and the Galeria de História way but in one of the classrooms of the University Library) isn’t the only place where you can Natural (National History Gallery) that holds buy tickets. The first of many tips that we will an educational collection of animals, plants, of Coimbra. After that, we´ll go on discovering the give about Coimbra is this: you can also buy fossils, minerals as well as many other World Heritage in Uptown (“Alta”) and in Rua da tickets at the Laboratório Chimico, one of the objects. A few meters from the Museu Sofia, as we head down towards the Mondego River. museological centers at Museu da Ciência da Ciência, on Rua Larga, you will find the (Science Museum) and the Faculdade de Faculdades de Medicina e Letras (Medicine The day ends with a privileged view of the city and all Philosophia (Philosophy Faculty). And you and Humanities Faculties), the Biblioteca its heritage. can start your tour right here by visiting the Geral and the Departamentos de Química 56 57 Coimbra: Coimbra: Day 1 Day 1

e Física (Departments of Chemistry and of Via Latina lead to the Palácio Real (Royal Machado de Castro and its impressive bal- 180 steps that are worth climbing thanks to Physics). Note that these were built at the Palace), where we pass through the Sala cony, the Mondego River and its two iconic the view from the top of it, commonly known time of the Estado Novo (period of dicta- dos Capelos and can admire it from various bridges, both Monasteries of Santa Clara among students as the “Torre da Cabra”. If torship in Portugal) and even the furniture perspectives, depending on the window and the newly renovated Convento de São it once set the pace for academic life, today was purposely designed for each building. from which we choose to peek; take a few Francisco. the bells summon the students for the most On reaching the Porta Férrea, right next to minutes to admire the city, the river and the The tour cannot end without visiting the solemn acts and mark, in a funereal tone, the Biblioteca Geral, note the remnants of Palace itself from a long balcony to which we Capela de S. Miguel, striking due to the vivid the passing of a lecturer. the students’ academic outfits that have they have immediate access afterwards. While colors of the original tiles (blue, white and yel- left, metaphorically and literally, as a part of going around the building on the outside, low) and the Joanine Library, crammed full of themselves in Coimbra upon their farewell. we can admire the whole city. As exciting as rows of bookshelves, in red, gold and wood, Then be amazed by the impressive Paço das the view from a typical sightseeing bus, this as ancient as the history of this place. The Escolas, a wide area filled by the whiteness panoramic view includes the Sé Velha and climb to the Torre da Universidade (University of the buildings that surround it. The stairs its cloister, the Sé Nova, the Museu Nacional Tower) is not included in this visit. There are 58 59 Coimbra: Coimbra: Day 1 Day 1

Walk around Alta and discover Rua da Sofia Walking around Coimbra’s Uptown (“Alta”) you enter the gardens. The farther you get Velha, which is still today the scene of one of the medieval city and which tower standing means walking around a World Heritage Site. from the busy streets around it, the better. the most important moments of academic next to it is still accessible. But the World For the sake of accuracy, Alta has a total of One of the busiest spots is, clearly, the shade life, the Queima das Fitas Serenade, which is Heritage Site extends, of course, to Rua da 22 listed buildings, including the Botanical of the large tree on the upper level of the traditionally held in May. Right after that, you Sofia, which we reach after passing byIgreja Garden, Colégio de S. Jerónimo and even the greenhouse. Besides being a good alternative can see Quebra-Costas – a steep staircase de Santa Cruz, a National Pantheon where Sé Velha. If we follow the Arcos, as Aqueduto for entertaining children during the hottest that connects the Cathedral square to the the first and second Kings of Portugal are de S. Sebastião is known, we quickly get to the hours of the day, it is also a great option for Arco de Almedina. It is said that those who buried. There are ten listed buildings in this Botanical Garden. The 13 hectares of garden couples in love. After the Botanical Garden, fall there will not only complete their studies street; it was essential to the consolidation include greenhouses, woods and thematic venture into the Couraça de Lisboa, where you at the Academy but will also marry in the of academic life in the city, because of the flower beds, but what stands out is the sense can enjoy a magnificent view of the Mondego city. We are now at the Arco de Almedina institution of several colleges that, in turn, of tranquillity that is felt from the moment River. Follow the path to the impressive Sé (or Porta de Almedina), the ancient gate to gave rise to the University of Coimbra. 60 61 Coimbra: Coimbra: Day 1 Day 1

A constant up and down Sunset overlooking the city

Accept the narrow and cobbled alleys as your also listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. It After the whole tour, we now suggest that Justiça e Paz (Justice and Peace University companions and venture forward fearlessly, was a political and religious center during the you relax like locals do. Now, if there’s one Institute) or the balcony of Convento São knowing that you may find a building full of Roman period, a Christian temple since the thing that a Conimbricense (a local) knows Francisco. Another attractive suggestion is history at any given moment. Another impor- 11th century and an episcopal palace after the it’s to enjoy the good things in life. In recent to discover the different viewpoints in the tant tip: going up, you will eventually get to the 12th century. It currently holds an exhibition of years, Coimbra has learnt to take advantage city, such as Conchada, Vale do Inferno or University; going down, you will find the river. precious medieval metals, ceramics, textiles, of the beautiful landscape that Alta offers Penedo da Saudade. Getting lost is part of the process of discovering furniture and archaeological objects from and, thus, some must-see spots have come Alta de Coimbra. Along the way, be sure to visit abandoned monasteries and convents in the to life. There are plenty of hotels, cafeterias or Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, not only Coimbra region. Get lost in the streets and find even some University buildings, such as the because it has one of the best views over the the Núcleo da Guitarra e do Fado de Coimbra, Departamento de Arquitetura (Department city from its balcony, but also because it is which is located at the restored Torre de Anto. of Architecture), the Instituto Universitário 62 63 Coimbra Coimbra: Day 2 Coimbra: Day 2 Day 2

Cross the Mondego River and fall in love in Santa Clara The “other side of the River”, as it is often tour to the former monastery, founded by referred to, has been reinvented in recent Mor Dias in 1283 – later abandoned due to years and the day is now set aside to visit successive rises of the river level – begins some of its most iconic spots. We’ll start with a video about the monastery’s history with Portugal dos Pequenitos, a paradise for and is followed by an exhibition of arte- Cross the river with giant steps and discover Portugal families with children. The name explains facts, paintings, photographs and original dos Pequenitos; travel back in time in Santa Clara everything: it is a theme park with minia- tiles. Outside, you have to be creative to and celebrate love between with romantic gardens ture replicas of several national landmarks, imagine what no longer exist, such as Paço including the University Tower. In the mean- da Rainha Santa Isabel, grandmother of King and fountains, and end the day toasting with craft time, we head on to the Santa Clara-a-Velha Pedro, and the love scene between King beer and enjoying the cuisine of Coimbra. Monastery, easily accessible on foot. The Pedro and Lady Inês de Castro, as well as 64 65 Coimbra: Coimbra: Day 2 Day 2

the place of her execution. Pay attention to and it is even said that King Pedro used We return, geographically, to the beginning the ruins of the Monastery where you can the pipelines between Quinta das Lágrimas and to Convento São Francisco. Climb up see the fountain, the cloister and some of and the Convento das Clarissas to com- to the Convent’s main entrance and take the old rooms. In the church, it is easy to municate with his beloved, using wooden full advantage of the balcony that has one see the level reached by the waters of the boats that were taken through the waters of the best views over the city (especially Mondego, the marks are still on the walls. of Fonte dos Amores. Additionally, there is at sunset), with the University, of course, The view of the whole Santa Clara-a-Velha also the Fonte das Lágrimas. Its waters, at the top the landscape. Monastery is more interesting from the bet- so the legend says, are Lady Inês’ tears at ter-preserved upper floor. We continue along the moment of her death. And the legend the same street that once brought people to goes further: the reddish stain on the rock the Monastery and find the entrance to the is her blood. Quinta das Lágrimas. It was here that King Pedro and Lady Inês de Castro met secretly 66 67 Coimbra: Coimbra: Day 2 Day 2

A handmade toast Make the most of a full table Having already been one of the most impor- to craft beer. This is the case with Praxis, According to tradition, out of fear of being sacked Conimbricense cuisine is the conventual confec- tant Portuguese traditions, firm steps are which, by using local water, invested in the by Napoleonic troops during the French Invasions, tionery, thanks to the labour and knowledge of the being taken in Coimbra to recover it. By creation of an experience that focuses on the population of Miranda do Corvo chose to use convents and monasteries in the city: from Pastéis this we mean that you can have a good craft beer. It’s a perfect three in one: a res- wine to preserve meat for longer periods of time. de Santa Clara (pastries), manjar branco (coconut beer in Coimbra, avoiding the more com- taurant, a museum and a craft producer. Thus, chanfana was born, a slow cooking dish pudding), arrufadas (sweet rolls), queijadas (cakes mercial and mass brands. In addition to Here, besides tasting snacks and delicacies that, although not originated in Coimbra, eventu- made with cheese), barriga de freira (bread pud- iconic local brands such as Onyx, a 4.5% – many of which are made using beer as ally became one of the local delicacies. Be sure to ding) and, more recently, crúzios (flour and butter dark lager, and Topázio, a 5.6% pilsner, that the main ingredient and others use it as try it at one of the several speciality restaurants. base with egg cream filling covered with laminated have recently made their ways back to the one of the ingredients – you can also get The same goes for leitão (suckling pig), seasoned almond and sprinkled with sugar), there are plenty of bars and shelves of various retailers, there to learn the whole brewing process, from with garlic, salt, pepper, parsley, bacon, lard, bay leaf reasons to indulge yourself, take a little of Coimbra are also some places exclusively dedicated the “seed” to the glass. and an experienced hand. However, the pinnacle of with you and share it with your loved ones. 68 69 Coimbra Coimbra: Day 3 Coimbra:

Discover Jewish Coimbra

Dive into the world of Coimbra’s academic life, get The construction of a Christian country Avenida Sá da Bandeira, where the Fonte dos led the first Kings of Portugal to make the Judeus could be found. This was Judiaria to know the university fraternities and sororities existing Jewish communities serve them Velha, the “ancient Jewish quarter”. The new and don’t leave the City of Students without sitting and, therefore, grant them privileges. To this quarter would be located in the area of Largo day, Coimbra has preserved many Jewish de Sansão and would go from what today at a table and listening to the beautiful Canção de characteristics and influences, and we sug- is Rua Direita to Largo da Freiria. The Pátio Coimbra. Only then you will understand what’s gest to spend a couple of hours getting da Inquisição is also part of this Jewish behind the saying “Coimbra tem mais encanto na hora to know Jewish Coimbra, since the city’s itinerary in Coimbra, as well as Praça 8 de oldest Jewish quarter was located on the Maio, previously known as Largo de Sansão, Day 3 da despedida” (“Coimbra is more charming at the hillside, near Santa Cruz. At that time, the where markets, festivals, inquisitions and Day 3 time of farewell”). neighbourhood extended to what is now the University of Coimbra took place. 71 Coimbra: Day 3 shows, student parties always are incomplete, although it’s very rare to veryfind rare incomplete, although it’s Besides the one in the middle of the street. de Canção houses that promote innumerous Coimbra a good opportunity the guitars listen to to Associação da Fado de of Secção and voices or of the several Coimbra de Académica Groups. and Fado local Tunas - - of

Listen to the Canção de Coimbra (a type of fado Canção de Coimbra is the music that sets the tone Coimbra) academic to connected Closely city. of the was born it spontaneously amongtraditions, at night students, of gathered who groups in even or in cafes own homes, in their fall sung Exclusively the middle of the street. of Conimbricense (the Fado men, Fado by still demands the use of the tra Coimbra) ditional academic Foroutfits. thisreason, is Coimbra a visit to without a serenade, ” Rás-Te-Parta República Real University Fraternities were born. There are are There born. were Fraternities University scattered about 25 Fraternities currently funny names have many city and the around (with puns in Portuguese): República “Real congregations, monasteries and any type monasteries and congregations, became house or college. It of religious for the an alternative create necessary to the thus, and, students many so of lodging ”, “ Rapó-Taxo ”. or “Real República Prá-Kys-Tão - - -

little of a History lesson: in 1834, Joaquim in 1834, Joaquim lesson: History a of little the abolition of de Aguiar ordered António of young people who live there. Since we there. people who live of young a here’s talking about academic life, are that have been associated with Coimbra been associated with Coimbra that have and with the irreverence for many years ent running modes. Fraternities are based are Fraternities ent running modes. and ideological issues on bohemian life The University Fraternities are real com real are Fraternities The University or alter student houses munities, shared differ have that residences student native A city of many fraternities

70 Coimbra: Day 3 72 73 Did you Coimbra Coimbra know that…

→ King Pedro used the pipelines of the fountains that connected → Santa Clara-a-Velha Monastery to Quinta das Lágrimas to communicate with his beloved? Tradition says that In all, there are 32 World he used wooden boats and the Cano Heritage listed buildings, do Amor, as it was baptized, between the University, wich is properly signposted in the gardens. Alta and Sofia? They are: Paço Real Botanical Garden Real Colégio das Artes Casa dos Melos Colégio de Jesus

Arquivo da Universidade → There are several tours that can Imprensa da Universidade complement this visit: dive deep Laboratório Chímico Santo António da Pedreira College into the World Heritage sites Santa Rita College or revisit the lives of famous Santa Trindade College portuguese writers; discover the Casa das Caldeiras ancient and medieval city and The Faculty of Medicine more about Portugal foundation; Departamento de Física e Química Learn fado and local traditions; São Jerónimo College São Bento College get to know several historic Associação Académica de Coimbra gardens; or have fun with the Sé Velha many points of interest for Faculdade de Letras families and youngsters. You Departamento de Matemática can find more information at the Biblioteca Geral (General Library) local tourist office. Santo Agostinho College S. Tomás de Aquino College N. Sra. do Carmo College Antigo Colégio das Artes S. Pedro dos Terceiros College S. Boaventura College Graça College Espírito Santo College Palácio de Sub-Ripas Mosteiro de Santa Cruz Machado de Castro National Museum 75 Three days in Tomar

An unavoidable symbol of Portuguese history, Convento de Cristo (Convent of Christ) is one of the largest sets of historical buildings in Peninsular and European architecture. The occupation by the Templars and the subsequent onset of Ordem de Cristo (Order of Christ) in Portugal makes it inseparable from the epic historical expansion of the Portuguese throughout the world. It condenses in its architecture both influences of the medieval world and of the portuguese discoveries, through several periods of History. Admire its beauty and venture beyond the walls, in a place that extols the same universalist appeal in its marks and in its people. 76 77

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Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 33. Convent of Christ 35. St. John the Baptist Church 39. Levada of Tomar 34. Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes 36. Tomar Synagogue 40. Casa dos Cubos Fatias de Tomar 37. Casa Memória Lopes Graça 41. Santa Maria do Olival Church Lampreia e sável 38. Núcleo Museológico de Arte Conventual sweets Contemporânea - Professor José-Augusto França 78 79 Tomar Tomar: Day 1 Tomar: Day 1 Day 1

Discover the secrets of the Templars in the Convent of Christ The journey through different centuries in the Convent of Christ is only one of the reasons that The Convent of Christ, built in the 12th century, Charola. Both are impressive: the Cemetery is an authentic repository of Portuguese his- because many people are unaware that they justify its classification as a World Heritage Site since tory, in terms of the construction and the life are walking on the graves of Knights of the 1983. The highlight of the visit is the Charola, which of the country, as well as in artistic and archi- Order of the Temple; and the Washing Cloister tectural terms. Traces of the various periods because the origin of its name is still non-con- surprises by its rich decoration and vibrant colours. and schools of thought can be found on the sensual - some believe it is due to the four Stroll through the ancient Cerca do Convento, now walls of this Convent of the Order of Christ. pools in the center of the cloister and others National Woods, and restore your energy at the table The tour begins at the Claustro do Cemitério e believe it meant “purification” before entering da Lavagem (Washing Cloister and Cemetery), the most sacred area of the Convent. Upon with a delicious shad or lamprey, and, of course, both Gothic and from the 15th century with the extinction of the Order by Rome Statute Fatias de Tomar. pointed archery, connecting the Castle and the in 1312, the visionary King Dinis ordered its 80 81 Tomar: Tomar: Day 1 Day 1

restruturation, preserving its functions and huge altarpieces depict the life of Christ and a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture, Nacional dos Sete Montes (National Woods of properties. The Order of the Temple became the oriental figures give proof of Portuguese that also reveals architectural remains from the Seven Hills), formerly part of the Monastery. then known as the Order of Christ. journeys around the world. Make sure you other periods. This is where we can see one King João III ordered the expansion of the area Igreja Fortaleza, or Charola, is a symbol of the notice, on one of the sides, the painting of St. of the epitomes of the Convent of Christ, the and it gained the features of a Convent, with establishment of the Kingdom of Portugal. Sebastian, at eye level. Notice that the saint has Capitulum Window: sit down and enjoy all the the addition of a dormitory, a refectory and a Associating this building with a church is not two right hands. By the orders of King Manuel, details of this façade which is rich in symbology. library. The Large Dormitory consists of a long immediate, but we must remember that the the church was “torn” apart and the Manueline Note the asymmetries between the right and corridor and you can enter the rooms which have need for defense against the Moors required Nave was born – it marks the entrance and exit left sides, where you can find a cork-oak tree a privileged view over the Capitulum Window. a more robust architecture. It is only natural of the Charola, with four large windows and with cut roots on one side and the whole roots You cannot end the tour without visiting the that the paintings resemble a mosque due to light-colored stone – the Coro Alto (High Choir) on the other. The left side, with suspended large refectory, the Claustro dos Corvos, ded- the colors and drawings, as it was built to the and the Capitulum Room, with low arches, angels, represents spiritual power, while the icated to studies, and the Claustro da Micha image of the 12th-century Temple of Solomon. an armillary sphere and the Cross of Christ right side refers to earthly power. (meaning “small” in French, since there used Prior warning: the neck pain is worth it if you anticipating of the famous Capitulum Window, It is time to return to the Main Cloister, which to be an oven where they baked the bread to want to admire every detail of this Charola. The facing west. We arrive at the Main Cloister, leads to a large balcony overlooking the Mata give to the poor and the pilgrims). 83 Tomar: Day 1

82 Tomar: Day 1 84 85 Tomar: TomarTomar: Day 1 Day 1

Breathe in memories Tomar at the table at the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes Right nearby, Cerca do Convento was a National Woods), these woods at the center Fatia de Tomar is a delicious option at any the Convent of Christ and was the friars’ place the knights of the Order of Christ of Tomar are the true “lung” of the city and, time of the day. Fresh and surprisingly light, favourite dessert, although we believe that used for cultivation and meditation. It is therefore, are the perfect place for bucolic these slices are also generous, no matter many others agree with that. But the gas- among the leafy, lush cypress, judas trees, and inspiring walks amidst trails through the where you choose to try them. Some will tronomy of Tomar has more surprises to oak and olive trees that you will find the charm of the trees with memory as ancient say that only the greediest ones can eat offer you. Lamprey and shad are other deli- Charolinha, a small and enigmatic stone as that of the Templars. it by themselves. Made with (a lot of) egg cacies that everyone loves, especially when temple, carved to the image of the towers yolks, sugar and water – then dipped in served with roe açorda, another speciality. of the Convent of Christ and surrounded syrup – Fatias de Tomar are so unique to So, don’t be shy, and enjoy the best of the by a circular pool that seems to protect it the city that even the pan used to bake them local and regional cuisines. from the outside world. Now known as the in is a local and exclusive item. It is said Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes (Seven Hills that this conventual sweet was created in 86 87 Tomar Tomar: Day 2 Tomar: Day 2 Day 2

Get lost in the history of the city The second day of your Tomar experience focuses A stroll through the historic center of Tomar Church), classified as a National Monument on its historic center and the banks of the Nabão is worth on its own and deserves spending in 1910. At the central square, let yourself River. Get lost in the historic maze that flows into the at least a couple of hours there (if you really be surprised by the 15th-century Manueline central square, where the Igreja de São João Baptista want to take it easy). The center is small and gate, the interior walls and the paintings by seems frozen in time, which, in this case, is Gregório Lopes depicting the Last Supper. (St. John the Baptist Church) stands, the epicenter of a great compliment. The streets are narrow This is the epicenter of the Trays Festival, the great Festa dos Tabuleiros (Trays Festival); visit and labyrinthic, the houses are small and which takes place every four years. Make neat. And the best part is that the Convent sure you make a strategic stop at one of the recently renovated Tomar Synagogue, the ultimate of Christ is always in the background, at the the many local pastry shops. symbol of Jewish life in the region and immerse top. Take the opportunity to go the Igreja yourself in the musical world of Lopes Graça. de São João Baptista (St. John the Baptist 88 89 Tomar: Tomar: Day 2 Day 2

Visit the only proto-renaissance Get lost in the Casa Memória Lopes Graça synagogue in Portugal and the Núcleo de Arte Contemporânea After a long period of restoration, the Tomar It reconquered its dignity in 1921 when it Right next to the Synagogue, we find the opposition to the fascist Portuguese regime Synagogue recently reopened to the public. was classified as a National Monument. One museum that honors one of the greatest made him a role model in the struggle for In addition to preservation works, new visitor of the highlights of the tour is the twelve Portuguese composer and maestro. Fernando democracy in our country. Afterwards, head to support infrastructures were created. The corbels on the walls that symbolize the Lopes Graça excelled in the study of national the Núcleo de Arte Contemporânea, the result Tomar Synagogue is the only example of twelve tribes of Israel. The four columns folklore and authored a vast literary work on of a donation of contemporary artworks by its kind in the country, with oriental influ- supporting the Synagogue represent the Portuguese music. His career as a pianist Professor José-Augusto França. Among more ences marked on the square plan and the four matriarchs: Sarah, Rebekah, Lea and began in the city where he was born, Tomar. than hundreds of artworks from different vaulted, pillar-based roof. Built during the Rachel. The last two were emphasized with So, visit the Casa Memória Lopes Graça, which periods, you may find works by some of the 15th century and closed upon the expulsion plant motifs in their decoration as they are displays a collection of personal items, sheet best-known Portuguese artists like Mário of the Jews from Portugal in 1496, it has Laban’s daughters. music and musical pieces that give evidence Eloy, Almada Negreiros, Vespeira, Cutileiro held several functions, from prison to barn. of his artistic and political activity - his strong and even José de Guimarães. 90 91 Tomar Tomar: Day 3 Tomar:

Get to know the city through its architecture The green areas surrounding the Nabão progress, which will give place to the Museu River are a good option to avoid the sun da Levada de Tomar (Levada’s Museum). during hotter days, to rest and to discover Casa dos Cubos, originally used as a stor- the Levada Complex and Casa dos Cubos, age and counting-house for agricultural both landmarks in Tomar´s history. The products, became a cultural and multipur- Start the day with a view of the river at Levada of origin of the Levada of Tomar dates back to pose space in 2007 and houses the Centro Tomar and Casa dos Cubos; pay tribute to Gualdim the 12th century. Since it follows the Nabão de Estudos em Fotografia de Tomar(Tomar Pais and don´t leave the center of Tomar without River, it offers a quite impressive view. The Photography Studies Center). Its restoration old mills and wine/oil presses, two mills was awarded an interior architecture prize, Day 3 taking conventual sweets with you as these are and even a power station are noteworthy. the Contract World Award in 2009. Day 3 authentic temptations. Good news: the restoration works are under 93 Tomar: Day 3 , egg-based sweets created and sweets created , egg-based Depressa at Estrelas de Tomar Tomar, handmade in Baptist the John St. to next right patisserie, also they Besides being addictive, Church. And let´s pink box. come in an eye-catching they when face someone´s it, watching face Now” Right Me “Kiss says that box a receive ) Depressa” for “Beija-me translation (literary a good laugh. will mean surely -

Go back home with a full suitcase for that buys souvenirs one of those you Are something the whole family? Especially if it’s is a Tomar it: eat or drink? So, let´s get to to suitcase your stuffing for destination great of plenty are there First, belly. – and your and conventual good examples of traditional worth are that sweets in Also, home. taking the consideration into people took Tomar difficulty withtravelling That’s of sweets. con packed choose to a good idea why it’s This is the case with Beija-me fectionery. and a hero of the siege of Tomar Tomar of the siege of and a hero 1157. From there on, he transferred the on, he transferred there 1157. From Tomar, to Templars Portuguese of the future where he founded the magnificent Castle of the Linha of Christ. Mentor and Convent do Tejo for five years for the Order of the Templars. the of Order the for years five for King Kingdom, the recent to Upon returning him with the entrusted Henriques Afonso Master of in and named him Grand Order in 1190, he rests here, in Santa Maria do here, in 1190, he rests Church. Olival -

during the country´s expansion period, he later departed he fought Jerusalem, where to Gualdim Pais. A faithful companion to our companion to faithful A Pais. Gualdim Moors the against battles many in king first also stands out due to its connection to the to its connection also stands out due to its founder: and Tomar of heritage Templar and other expressions of the Gothic style of the Gothic and other expressions in Portugal, Church Santa Maria do Olival In addition to the three naves in a wide inte naves the three In addition to the and rosette, large a by illuminated rior, typical detachment of mendicant orders Honor a national hero in the Santa Maria do Olival Church

92 Tomar: Day 3 94 95 Look for the painting of St. Sebastian in the Charola of the Convent of Christ Did you and look at his hands. Gregório Lopes painted him with two right hands and, so Tomar far, no one knows if it a mere distraction Tomar know that… or not.

In the Convent´s refectory, you will find a door that once led to the Initiation Room. It has the number 48 and a figure with three faces painted on the ceiling. What does it mean? Yesterday, today and tomorrow.

Be one of the few people to spot a dog and a cat in the Capitulum Window. Look for the armillary sphere on the right; then move your eyes slightly to the left and you´ll find them upright. Information

ALCOBAÇA BATALHA

Family Tourist Office 5.Parque dos Monges Tourist Office 12.Museu da Comunidade 16.Grutas da Moeda Heritage Address: Adress: Adress: Concelhia da Batalha Adress: Rua 16 de Outubro, 7 Rua Quinta das Freiras, 10 Praça Mouzinho de Adress: Largo das Grutas da Moeda, Gastronomy Phone Number: 262 582 377 Opening hours: Albuquerque Largo Goa, Damão e Diu, 4 São Mamede Nature Tues. - Sun. 10:00 am - 7:00pm Phone Number: 244 765 180 Opening hours: Opening hours: Sport 1.Mosteiro de Alcobaça (ticket office closes an hour Wednesday – Sunday 10:00 am 16 October – 15 March (Alcobaça Monastery) earlier) 8.Mosteiro da Batalha - 1:00 pm and 2:00 pm - 6:00pm 9:00 am - 5:00pm Phone Number: Adress: Price: 2,50€ (other prices 16 March – 15 July Address: 262 581 306 ou 911 001 404 Largo Infante D. Henrique and discounts available on 9:00 am - 6:00pm Praça 25 de abril Price: Opening hours: request) 16 July – 15 September Opening hours: 10€ (other prices and 1 April – 15 Oct. 9:00 am - 6:30pm Phone Number: 244 769 878 9:00 am - 7:00pm April – Sept. 09:00 am - 7:00pm discounts available on 16 October – 31 March 16 September – 15 October Oct. – March 09:00 am - 6:00pm request) 9:00am- 6:00pm 13.Ecoparque Sensorial 9:00 am - 6:00pm (last entry time half an (última entrada meia hora da Pia do Urso Phone Number: 244 703 838 hour before the ticket office 6.Tourist Office antes do encerramento da Adress: Price: closes) of Aljubarrota bilheteira) Rua da Pia do Urso, 19 Caves and Centro de Phone Number: 262 505 120 Adress: Phone Number: 244 765 497 Opening hours: Interpretação Científico – Price: 6€ (other prices and Praça do Pelourinho, Price: 6€ (other prices and Aberto 24 horas Ambiental: 9€ (other prices discounts available on Aljubarrota discounts available on and discounts available on request) Opening hours: request) 14.Centro BTT Pia do Urso request) Mon. – Fri. 09:30 am - 12:30 pm Adress: 3.Jardim do amor and 2:00 pm - 5:00pm 9.Igreja Matriz da Exaltação Ecoparque Sensorial 17.Centro de Interpretativo Adress: Phone Number: 262 507 113 de Santa Cruz da Pia do Urso da Batalha de Aljubarrota Jardim da Biblioteca Adress: Opening hours: Adress: Municipal de Alcobaça 7.Mosteiro Santa Largo Goa, Damão e Diu Summer – 9:00 am - 7:00pm Avenida D. Nuno Álvares Rua Araújo Guimarães Maria de Cós Winter – 9:00 am - 5:00pm Pereira, 120, Aljubarrota, Opening hours: Adress: 10.Jardim do Lena Phone Number: Porto de Mós Mon. - Fri. 07:00 am - 7:30pm Rua Santa Rita, Coz Adress: [email protected] Opening hours: Opening hours: Rua do Infante Tues. - Sun. 10:00 am - 5:30pm 4.Museu do Vinho Tuesday - Saturday 09:30 am – Opening hours: 15.Percurso ciclável Closed on bank holidays – 25th de Alcobaça 12:30 pm and 2:00 pm - 6:00pm; Aberto 24 horas Rota dos Moinhos December, 1st January, Easter Adress: Phone Number: 969 642 970 Phone Number: 244 765 180 Sunday and 1st May Rua de Leiria 11.Jardim dos Infantes Phone Number: 244 480 060 Opening hours: Adress: Price: 7€ (outros preços ter - dom Avenida dos e descontos sob consulta) Tues. – Sun. 10:00 am 12:00 pm Descobrimentos, 330 and 2:00 pm - 5:00pm Opening hours: Phone Number: 968 497 832 Aberto 24 horas Price: 3,60€ (other prices and discounts available on request) Information

COIMBRA TOMAR

Câmara Municipal de Coimbra 24.Museu Nacional 28.Quinta das Lágrimas Tourist Office 36.Sinagoga de Tomar 40.Casa dos Cubos Adress: Machado de Castro Adress: Adress: Adress: Adress: Praça 8 de Maio Adress: Rua José Vilarinho Raposo, 1 Avenida Doutor Cândido Rua Dr. Joaquim Jacinto, 73 Praceta Alves Redol Phone Number: 239 857 500 Largo Doutor José Rodrigues Opening hours: Madureira, Tomar Opening hours: Contact details: Opening hours: 16 March – 15 October Phone Number: April – September / Tuesday [email protected] 19.Universidade de Coimbra Tuesday 2:00 pm - 6:00pm, Tues. – Sun. 10:00 am – 7:00 pm 249 329 823 – Sunday 10:00 am – 1:00 pm Adress: Wed. - Sun. 10:00 am - 6:00pm 16 October – 15 March and 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm 41. Igreja de Santa Maria Largo da Porta Férrea Phone Number: 239 853 070 Tues. – Sun. 10:00 am - 5:00 pm 33.Convento de Cristo April – September / Tuesday do Olival Opening hours: Price: 6€ Phone Number: Adress: – Sunday 10:00 am - 12:00 pm Adress: 1 March – 27 October 239 802 380 Igreja do Castelo Templário and 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm Rua Aquiles da Mota Lima, Ticket office: 8:30 am - 7:00pm 25.Núcleo da Guitarra e do Price: 2,50€ Opening hours: Phone Number: 249 329 823 Opening hours: Tours: 9:00 am - 7:30pm Fado de Coimbra October – May 9:00 am - 5:30 pm April – September 28 October – 28 February Adress: 29.Convento June – Sep. 9:00 am - 6:30 pm 37.Casa Memória 10:00 am – 1:00 pm Ticket office: 9:00 am – 1:00 pm Rua de Sobre Ribas São Francisco (last entrance half an hour Lopes Graça and 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm and 2:00 pm - 5:00pm Opening hours: Adress: before the ticket office closes) Adress: Phone Number: Tours: 9:30 am - 1:30 pm and Tuesday – Saturday 10:00 am - Avenida da Guarda Inglesa, 1A Phone Number: 249 313 481 Rua Dr. Joaquim Jacinto 25 249 329 823 (Tomar Tourist 2:00 pm - 5:00pm 1:00 pm and 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm Opening hours: Price: 6€ (outros preços Opening hours: Office) Torre da Universidade Mon. – Sun. 3:00 pm - 8:00 pm e descontos sob consulta) October – March (University Tower): 26.Portugal dos Pequenitos Phone Number: 239 857 190 Wed. – Sun. 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm 16 March – 31 October Adress: 34.Mata Nacional Phone Number: 249 329 823 10:00 am - 6:00pm Rossio de Santa Clara 30.Praxis dos Sete Montes [email protected] Phone Number: 239 242 744 Opening hours: Adress: Adress: Price: 7 – 12,30€ January – February and 6 Oct. – Rua António Augusto Praça do Infante D. Henrique 38.Núcleo de Arte 31 Dec. 10:00 am - 5:00 pm Gonçalves, 28/29 Opening hours: Contemporânea – Professor 20.Jardim Botânico March – May and 16 September Opening hours: Oct. – Feb. 8:30 am - 5:30 pm José-Augusto França Adress: – 15 Oct. 10:00 am - 7:00 pm Monday – Saturday 10:30 am March– Sept. 8:30 am - 7:30 pm Adress: Calçada Martim de Freitas June – 15 Sep. 9:00 am - 8:00 pm - 02:00 am, Sunday 10:30 am Rua de Gil Avô, Tomar Opening hours: Phone Number: 239 801 170 - 01:00 am 35.Igreja de Opening hours: April – Sept. 9:00 am - 8:00pm Price: 9,95€ Phone Number: 239 440 207 São João Baptista October – April Tuesday – Oct. – March 9:00 am - 5:30pm Adress: Sunday 10:00 am – 1:00 pm Phone Number: 239 855 215 27.Mosteiro de Santa Praça da República and 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm Clara-a-Velha Opening hours: May – September Tuesday – 21.Sé Velha Adress: Monday – Sunday 10:00 am Sunday 10:00 am – 1:00 pm Adress: Rua das Parreiras – 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm – and 3:00 pm – 7:00 pm Largo da Sé Velha Opening hours: 6:00 pm Phone Number: 249 329 814 Opening hours: 1 April – 14 October Tuesday - Price: Free Mon. - Fri. 10:00 am - 5:30pm Sunday 10:00 am - 7:00 pm Saturday 10:00 am - 6:30pm 15 October – 31 March Tuesday 39.Complexo da Levada Sunday and religious bank - Sunday 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Adress: holidays 11:00 am - 5:00pm Phone Number: 239 801 160 Rua João Carlos Everard Phone Number: 239 825 273 Price: 4€ Phone Number: Price: 2,50€ [email protected] Edition Tourist Information Offices Turismo Centro de Portugal Turismo Centro de Portugal

Content East Office Local Heroes Adress: Rua Direita, 87, Óbidos Design Phone Number: Degrau 262 955 060

Photographic Credits Leiria Office Mosteiro de Alcobaça Adress: (Alcobaça Monastery): Jardim Luís de Camões, Leiria Fernando Guerra Phone Number: 244 848 771 Mosteiro da Batalha (Batalha Monastery): Coimbra Office Alexandre Delmar Adress: Av. Afonso Henriques, 132, Convento de Cristo Coimbra (Convent of Christ): Phone Number: Nuno Moreira 239 488 120

Universidade de Coimbra (University of Coimbra), Alta e Sofia: Óscar Almeida

Turismo Centro de Portugal

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