©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Bradley Mayhew edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Thanks to Kim Bannister of Kamzang Treks and advice and interesting anecdotes: Lhakpa Sherpa of Khumbu Adventures. Thanks A Ah Yew Lim, Alan Bahl, Anat Werbner, Andrea to Niraj Shrestha and Rajesh Karki of the always Gillarduzzi, Andreas Stimm, Andrew Whitmarsh, Anne professional Himalayan Encounters. Dawa Gyaljen Forget-Levasseur, Artur Wróbel, Avishai Green B Bill Sherpa and his father gave great Rolwaling tips. Prime, Brandon Hausmann C Charles Ruechel, Chel- Tejanath Pokharel in Khandbari was helpful with sea Phillilppe, Corlius Jooste, Curtis Miller D Daniel information. Phurba Gyaltsen Sherpa was a Jones, David Galloway , David Kleinberg, Don Buckley great porter-guide in the Khumbu, as ever. Cheers to E Evie Lim G Guillaume Roberge H Henry Coulter, Mukhiya and Maya, and to Dave, Cecile and Nieves, Henryk Blasinski I Ian Macdonald, Inbal Frankenstein who were fine trekking companions in Manaslu and J Jake Strauss, Jane Corrie, Jay Thompson-Westra, Tsum. Namgyal Ngodup generously offered lots of Jean-Pierre Mélon, Jeffrey Grabow, Jenny Morgan, info on his native Tsum. Love to Kelli and thanks for Jessica Alderman, Jochen Schuhmacher, John coming to to see me! Sanderson, John Wall, Jonathan Wickens K Kitty Dun- can L Larry Gems, Lauren Ruff , Laurence Wilbraham, Lindsay Brown Lydia Murphy M Marleen Lin, Mazlina Tahir, Michael I am very grateful for the guidance of Stan Arm- Schindler, Mikael Persson, Mizio Matteucci, Muzzi ington, trekking pioneer and author of the Hoole N Natalie Francis, Nicholas Kanaan P Paul first eight editions of this book. I also thank Durga Clements, Pete Thomas, Peter Bidstrup, Peter Diffey, Bandari, Dawa Lama (Big), Dawa Lama (Small), Ram Peter March, Petra Bolfing, Pierre Gaspart R Raanan Roka, Narendra Lama (ACAP), Vimal and Vijay from Greenman, Robert Thomas, Robert Kincaid, Robert nature-treks.com, and Ben Cester and Sinead Brown Thomas, Roberto Martinez, Roger Ray, Roland Eger, for accompanying me on the Khopra Ridge trek. Ronald Gallagher, Roshidah Hashim, Rosie Amesbury Cheers to fellow authors Bradley Mayhew and Stuart S Sabrina Laminger, Salvatore Cambria , Sam Miller, Butler, and last but not least, thanks to life and Scott Haggmark, Sebastian Sievers, Shai Roth, Simon travelling companion Jenny Fegent. Gamache, Susan Longman T Thomas Joller, Toby Frankenstein, Toby McAdams, Tom Stuart W William Chan X Xavi Pérez Y Yuval Yitzhak. 360 Stuart Butler First and foremost I must, once again, thank POST-EARTHQUAKE UPDATE my wife Heather, and children Jake and Grace for their patience with this long project, which Special thanks are due to the journal- involved so much time up in the mountains and ists and Nepal experts who helped to out of touch. In Nepal, huge thanks to Thiley update our content following the 2015

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Lama and Ghyalbu Tamang for a memorable earthquakes, specifically: Suraj , ascent of Yala Peak. Thanks to Durga Tamang Ajay Narsingh Rana, Nabin Baral, Rabik for advice with the Tamang Heritage Trail and Upadhayay, Abhi Shrestha, Niraj the Helambu treks. For an amazing Kanchen- Shrestha, Robin from Rural Heritage, junga trek thanks to Lakpa Dorje Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Aug Dawa Sherpa, Pemba Tony Jones from Himalayan Encounters Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Dipak Rai, Rames Lama, and Jennifer Berry from Kathmandu Pemba Tamang, A and Jun Tamang, Sankar Karki Inside Out. and, at Himalayan Glacier, thanks to Naba Raj Amgai for organising it all. Thanks also to Anna Hindmarsh and Radko for tips on Kanchenjunga ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS North. Finally, thanks to Ben Clift and John Gray Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson for accompanying me on the mountain trails, but BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of clearly Ben it would be you who would be eaten by the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- a jaguar first… ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Gokyo Ri, Sagarmatha National Park. Feng Wei Photography/Getty

by Stan Armington. This Peter Cruttenden, Victoria Har- THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by rison, Gabrielle Innes, Lauren This 10th edition of Lonely the following: O’Connell Planet’s Trekking in the Destination Editor Joe Assisting Cartographers Nepal Himalaya guidebook Bindloss Hunor Csutoros, Corey Hutch- was researched and written Product Editors Kate Kiely, ison, Gabriel Lindquist by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Martine Power Cover Researcher Naomi Brown and Stuart Butler. The Senior Cartographer David Parker ninth edition was written and Kemp Thanks to Imogen Bannis- researched by Bradley May- Book Designer Wendy Wright ter, Kate James, Catherine hew and Joe Bindloss, while Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, the eighth edition was written Noble, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 361

Index

Lukla 118 Sanctuary Trek Bheri Kharka 139 See also subindex for Manang 129, 156 13, 131, 136-44, 137, 13 Bheteni 229 Treks, p368 alcohol 233, 330-1 antiques 327 Bhote Kosi Valley 103-4 altitude sickness 41, 349-51 area codes 17 Bhotia people 308-9 Ama Dablam Base Camp 83 Arughat 214, 217 Bhratang 151 2001 Royal Massacre 303, Amji Khola 243 Arun Valley 220-33 Bhulbule (Annapurna 304 Amjilosa 238 Arya 103-4 region) 146 2015 earthquakes 8-9, 290, Bhulbule (western Nepal) see also earthquake Amphu Lapcha 85 ATMs 332 254 damage AMS 41, 349-51 avalanches 41, 138 animals 316-18 Bibre 84 bicycle travel 342 A blue sheep 250, 317 B Bimtang 216 ACAP 154 yaks 72, 96 Babiyachour 270-1 Biratnagar 246 acclimatisation 350 311 Babu Chhiri Sherpa 86, 114 birds 317-18 accommodation 324-6 Annapurna 142 backpacks 37-8 Birethanti 129, 144, 193-4 Annapurna region 127 Annapurna Base Camp Bagar 141 138-43 blue sheep 250, 317 eastern Nepal 218 Bagarchhap 150 Annapurna Circuit Trek 11, Bodhnath 49 Everest region 64-5, 66 people 312 144-75, 10-11, 145, Bonington, Chris 82, 142 Kathmandu 46, 52-4 Bahundanda 146 152-3, 165, 172 books 290, 292-3 Langtang, Helambu & Balasa 259 Manaslu 198 Annapurna Conservation birds 318 Area Project (ACAP) 154 Balawa Besi 228 language 353 culture 267, 311 Annapurna Dhaulagiri Bamboo (Annapurna region) Mustang 184 eastern Nepal 220 Community Trail 135, 140, 143 western Nepal 251 Everest region 90 134 Bamboo (Langtang) 201 activities 326 health 347 Annapurna Himal 129-74 Banskharka 135 history 296, 298, 301, cycling 324 Banthanti 130, 131 Annapurna Panorama Trek 302, 303 extreme sports 88 bargaining 331 129-33, 130 Humla 278 mountaineering 34-5 Barun Glacier 232 Annapurna region 43, Mustang 183 acute mountain sickness 41, 124-95, 125 Basantpur 247 plants 319 349-51 accommodation 127 bathrooms 335 trekking peaks 35 Ahl Kharka 133 climate 124 Bayeli 135, 136 western Nepal 251 AIDS 347-8 conservation projects 154 bears 316 border crossings 339-40 air travel 341 culture 124 beer 330-1 Boukreev, Anatoli 142 helicopter rides 342 development 139, 181 begging 34 Brabal 201 safety 118, 341-2 earthquake damage Beni 288 Bragha 155 scenic flights 50 132, 182 Beni to Dolpo Trek Buddha Jayanti 65 to/from Nepal 337-9 emergencies 127 269-75, 270 267, 311 within Nepal 341-2 environment 126-7 Benkar 72 budget 16-17, see also costs airports & airstrips 337 explorers 170 Bera Goth 207 Bung 225 Dolpo 260 highlights 125 Besi Sahar 144, 194 Bupsa 115, 116 Jomson 129, 195 maps 127 Beti 261 bus travel 17, 343 Jumla 287 mountain views 124 48 business hours 332 Kathmandu 17 permits 127 Bhandar 108 planning 124, 127 Bhara 253 towns & facilities 192-5 Bharha Chuli 134 C Map Pages 000 travel seasons 124 bhattis 325-6 camping 326 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 127-9 Bhena 187 camping treks 23, 26 362 car travel 17, 343-4 Cho Phu 276 Deorali (Annapurna region) driving 17, 343-4 306 Chogo La 191 139 duffle bags 37-8 caves Chongar viewpoint 156 Deorali (Annapurna Dudh Kosi 70-1 Chungsi Caves 186 Choprang Gompa 190 Sanctuary) 141 Dudh Kunda 110, 114, 116 Hulaki Odar 175 chortens 309, see also Deorali (Gosainkund) 207 Dudh Kunda-Pikey Cultural Luri Gompa 191 Desio, Ardito 86 Trail 116

INDEX INDEX Milarepa’s Cave 156, Chosar 190 Deurali 105 Dudh Pokhari 95, 96 157, 215 Chotra 259 Dhagarjun 285-6 Dughla 86 Ney Guru Sang Phuk 155 Chulu East 141 Dhampus 138 Dumje 65-6

C- cell phones 16, 334-5 Chulu West 141 Dhan Kharka 134, 135 Dunai 261, 287-8 

E Chabarbu 161 Chumoa 72 Dharamsala (Limi Valley) Dunai Trek, Jumla to 258-61  Chachalung 227 Chunemba 276 279, 281 48-9 Chachera 281 Chungsi Caves 186 Dharamsala (Manasulu) Dusa 86 215 Chame 151 Chure Hills 315 Dzonglha 102 Dharamsala (Nar-Phu) 176 Chamje 148 Chyakhu 177 246 Charakot 225 Chyaksadanda 230 Dharapani (Annapurna E charities 34, 255 Chyawabesi 228 region) 150 earthquake damage Chatrapati 235 Chyugur Khola 266 Dharapani (Manaslu) 216 Annapurna region Chauki 234 cinema 90, 183, 198, 251, Dharapani (western Nepal) 132, 182 Chaurikharka 116 290 271 eastern Nepal 221 Chaurikot 259 climate 16, 21-3, 16, see Dharapuri 279 Everest region 64, 105 also individual regions chautaara 312 Dhaulagiri 170 Kathmandu 48 climate change 315, 340 Chautha 253-4 Dhaulagiri Icefall 170 Langtang, Helambu & clothing 36-7, 38 Chele 186-7 Dhaulagiri Trek 286 Manaslu 198, 199 conservation areas, Chepka 263 Dhobane 228 safety warning see national parks & Cheplung 68-9 stickers 53 conservation areas Dhorpatan 272 Cheplung (Taktag) Gompa western Nepal 250 consulates 328 Dhorpatan Hunting 69 Reserve 272 earthquakes 41, 314-15 costs 16-17 Chere 255 Dhotu 254 eastern Nepal 44, 218- accommodation 324, Chewabas 115 47, 219 326 Dhukur Pokhari 152-3 Chhairo 167 accommodation 218 food 329 Dhule 273, 274 chhang 330 books 220 crime 41-2 Dhunche 216 Chhayo 171 climate 218 Crystal Mountain School diarrhoea 349 people 312 267 difficulty levels 24 earthquake damage 221 Chhomrong 131, 139, culture 306-13 Dingboche 83-4, 86, 89-90 highlights 219 140, 143 currency 16, 331 disasters 41 maps 219 Chhorkhung 73 customs regulations 327 diseases, see health, permits 220, 221, 229 Chhuksang 186, 192 cycle-rickshaws 344 individual diseases planning 218, 220 Chhukung 84-6, 100 cycling 342 Do Tarap 15, 266-7, 15 towns & facilities 245-70 Chhukung Ri 85 Doban 138, 140, 143 transport to/from 220 Chhule 104 Dobato (Annapurna region) travel seasons 218 Chhungar 192 D 136 trekking peaks 220 Chhuthawa 71 Dagchu 109 Dobato (eastern Nepal) 136 views 218 Chhyantu 272 Dagin 260 Dobhan 235 ecology, see environment children, travel with 326-7 Dajok Tang 268 Dochal Ghara 259 economy 290-1 Chimang 167 Dana 173 documents 31-3 electricity 55, 327-8 Chimbu 108 Danaque 150 Dole 93 embassies 328, 329 Danda Kharka 231 China, relations with 291 Dolpo 255-75, 256-7 emergencies 42, see also dangers, see safety Chipling 208, 210 Beni to Dolpo Trek health, safety Chirwa 235-6 Danphe Lagna Camp 252 269-75, 270 Himalayan Rescue Asso- Chisopani 208, 209 Darbang 271 Dolpopa people 309 ciation 31, 83, 156 Chitre (Annapurna region) Dasain 22 Dorje Phurba Gompa 267 language 353 133, 174 Debuche 79 Draglung Gompa 268 entrance fees & permits 31-3, 34-5, 61 Chitre (eastern Nepal) 243 Debuche Nunnery 79 Drakmar 191, 192 Annapurna region 127 97, 102 deer 317 drinks 330-1 Dolpo 258 deforestation 320 language 353 eastern Nepal 220, demonstrations 334 seabuckthorn juice 157 Map Pages 000 221, 229 Deng 214 tongba 233 Photo Pages 000 Everest region 67 water 150, 348 363 Helambu 198 festivals & events 22 Gomlha 71 Thekchen Rabgyeling Humla 278 Buddha Jayanti 65 gompas & monasteries 311 Gompa 262 inner Dolpo 275 Dumje 65-6 Bragha Gompa 155 Thubten Chholing 110 Kanchenjunga 233 Gyalpo Losar 65 Cheplung (Taktag) Tsarang 188 Kathmandu 61 Kathmandu 52 Gompa 69 Gopte 207 Langtang 198 Mani Rimdu 65 Chhandul (Sandul) Gorak Shep 87

Gompa 266 INDEX Manaslu region 198, 211 Tiji 184, 19 Gorkha 217 Chhyonkhar Gompa 162 Mustang 183 films 90, 183, 198, 251, 290 Gorosingha 254 Choprang Gompa 190 Nar-Phu 175 first-aid kit 21, 346 Gosainkund 205-8, 206

-Dorje Phurba Gompa 267  E national parks & fitness 23 Gothe Bazaar 228

Doro Gompa 267  H conservation areas floods 315, 320 Gothi Chaur 259 33, 319 Draglung Gompa 268 flora, see plants Goyom 109 Rara 252 Gekye Gompa 205 food 328-31 Great Himalayan Trail 239 Shivalaya 119 Ghar Gompa 191 Kathmandu 46, 54-6 group trekkers 23 environment 314-22, see Jampa Lhakhang 189 language 353 Gudel 226 also individual regions Jharkot 163 footwear 37 Guerrilla Trek 286 environmental issues Kagyud Gompa 157 guides & porters 23, 26-8 320-2 frostbite 352 Karki Gompa 157 Gulbang 273 equipment 36, 37-9 Fukang Glacier 215 Katsapterenga Gompa Gumma Yok 282 buying in Nepal 39, 58 166 Gunsang 159 hire 39 Khari Gompa 74 G Gupa Pokhari 235 etiquette, cultural 306, 307 Gaikharka 224 Khiraule Gompa 225 Gurja 235 events, see festivals & Gakar 267 Khumjung gompa 76 Gurjakot 272 events Galeshor (Galeshwar) 135 Khunde Tsamkhang 76 Guru Rinpoche 75, 81, Everest Base Camp Trek 11, Ganja La Trek 204-5, 204 Kyanjin Gompa 202, 205 68-91, , , 210, 267 69 80-1 11 Gekye Gompa 205 Lawudo Gompa 74 Everest region 43, 62-123, 311 Geling 187 Lo Manthang 189-90 63 Gyabla 238 geology 314-16 Luri Gompa 191 accommodation 64-5, 66 Gyalpo Losar (Tibetan New Ghachok Trek 128, 128 Mekyem Gompa 267 Year) 22, 65 altitude sickness 68 132-3, 143 Muktinath 162 Gyasumdo 149 books 90 Ghandruk Loop 128, 128 Namche Gompa 119-20 Gyazumba Tsho 96 climate 62 Ghap 215 Namka Khyung Dzong earthquake damage 64 Ghar Gompa 191 Gompa 285 electricity 65 H Ghasa 173 Pangboche (Pal Rilbu) environment 64 Halji 282 Ghat 70 Gompa 79 extreme sports 88 Hanuman Dhoka 49 Ghemi 187 Pangum Gompa 224 festivals 65-6 hashish 331 Ghermu 148 Pema Choling Gompa 71 films 90 health 345-51 130-1, 133, Pema Namding Gompa guides & porters 66 altitude sickness 41, 138, 173 114 highlights 63 349-51 Ghunsa 238-9 Phortse Gompa 97 maps 66 books 347 Ghurchi Lagna 254 Praken Gompa 157 medical facilities 66-7 Ribo Bhumpa Gompa emergency treatments Ghurchi Mara 254 347 permits & regulations 67 267 Ghurjung 143 first-aid kit 21, 346 planning 62, 64-7 Rinzin Ling Gompa 282 Ghustung 273 insurance 345 route options 67 Samtenling Gompa Ghyaru 154 internet resources 347 Sherpa villages 62, 76-7 (Tashi Lhakhang) 167 giardiasis 349 language 353-4 supplies & equipment 67 Serlo Gompa 110 glaciers vaccinations 345-6 towns & facilities 67, Sherin Gompa 268 Barun Glacier 232 117-23 Shipchok Gompa 267 water 150, 348 Fukang Glacier 215 travel seasons 62, 65 Sibuje gompa 224 Helambu 208-10, see also Kagmara Glacier 262 Langtang, Helambu & travel to/from 67 Sing Gompa 207 Khumbu Glacier 87 Manaslu trekking peaks 85 Tashi Lhakhang Gompa Ngozumpa Glacier 91 Helambu Circuit Trek Ev-K2-CNR research 178 208-10, 209 station 86 Yalung Glacier 244 Tashi Thongmon Gompa helicopter rides 342 exchange rates 17 goats 317 111 Gokyo 95, 96, 97, 103, Tengboche Gompa 78 hepatitis 347 95, 12 Tengboche Monastery 78 Herzog, Maurice 142 F Gokyo Ri 96, 19 Thame Gompa 75 Hile 246-7 fees, see entrance fees & Gokyo Trek 91-7, 95 Thasung Chholing Hillary, Edmund 76, 82, 231 permits Golphu Bhanjyang 207-8 Gompa 264 364 Hillary Memorial information Kali Gandaki Valley 160 Khiraule Gompa 225 Viewpoint 76 organisations 31 Kalopani 172 Khopra Danda 135 Hille 130 inner Dolpo 14, 275-7, 14 Kanchenjunga 14, 233-44, Khopra Ridge 135 Hilsa 283 insurance 236-7, 14 Khopra Ridge Trek 133-6, Hima 273 health 345 Kanchenjunga North Trek 134 Himal Qu 139, 143 porters 28 235-41, 236-7 Khotro 149

INDEX INDEX Himalayan Hotel 141, 143 rescue 331 Kanchenjunga South Trek Khudi 144 Himalayan Rescue travel 331 241-4, 236-7 Khumbila 74 Association 31, 83, 156 vehicle 344 Kang Gopa 276 Khumbu Climbing Center

H-L 394, 395 internet access 331 Kang La 179-80 97  Hinku Cave 141 internet resources 17 Kang La Phedi 179 Khumbu Glacier 87  Hinku Valley 226 air tickets 339 Kanigaon (Annapurna Khumjung 76 region) 148 Hiran Duski 252 airlines 338, 341 Khunde 76 Kanigaon (western Nepal) history 292-305 birdwatching 318 Khyang 177 266 Kiratis 294 environment 320 Kimche 143 Karte 149 Licchavis 295 health 347 Kimrong 143 Kartike Pul 228 Mallas 295-7 Isharu 136 311 Kathmandu 46-61, 47, People’s War 301-2 Island Peak Base Camp 85 Konar 97 51, 56-7 prodemocracy protests Italian Pyramid 86 Kongma La 100-2 300-1 accommodation 46, 52-4 itineraries, see individual Konjo 171 activities 50 Ranas 298-9 regions Kothe 226 climate 46 295 Koto 151, 175 drinking 56-7 unification under Shahs Kumrong Danda 143 297-8 J earthquake damage 48 Kunjari 242 140, 141 Jagat (Annapurna region) emergencies 58 148 Kyangjuma 77 HIV 347-8 festivals & events 52 Jagat (Manaslu) 214 Kyanjin Gompa 202, 205 holidays 333-4 food 46, 54-6 Jaljala Chaur 255 homestays 135, 203 highlights 47 Jampa Lhakhang 189 Hongde 156 history 48 L Janai Purnima 22, 96 horse riding 184 information 58-60 Laini 266 Jang 282 hot springs 173 itineraries 54 Laisicap 265 Jannu 238 Chame 151 medical services 58-9 lakes Jaubari 227 Jagat 148 nightlife 56-7 Angladumba Tsho 103 Jharkot 163 Jhinu Danda 140 permits 61 Birendra Tal 215 Jhinu Danda 139-40, 143 Kermi 281 planning information 46 Cholatse Tsho 89-90 Jhong 162-3 Tatopani (Annapurna safety 59 Dhumba Lake 166 Jhunam 177 region) 173 shopping 58 Dudh Kunda 110, 114, 116 Jiri 117 Tatopani (western Nepal) sights 48-50 Dudh Pokhari 95, 96 160, 164, 165, 166, 270, 273 tours 50 Gosainkund 207 194-5 hotels, see accommodation travel seasons 46 Gyazumba Tsho 96 Jorsale 72-3 HRA, see Himalayan travel to/from 60-1 Ice Lake 157 Rescue Association Jubing 114 travel within 61 Khayer Lake 135 human trafficking 312 Julu (Chullu) 155 Kathmandu Environmental Longponga Tsho 95 Jumla 252, 258-9, 287 Hulaki Odar 175 Education Project 31 Ngozumba Tsho 96 Jumla to Dunai Trek Humla 277-85 Katsapterenga Gompa 166 Phoksumdo Lake 264-5, 258-61, 256 Hwaka 227 Kawaguchi, Ekai 167, 292 269, 275-6 Junbesi 110 Keldang 205 Rara Lake 254 Juphal 260 I Kermi 281 Relama Tsho 103 Ice Lake 157 Khaim 273 Sacred Lakes 96-7 Ilam 247 K Khambachen 239 Sekung Lake 170 Illing Lagna 284 Kabra 253 Khandbari 245 Selima Tso 281 immigration 337 Kagbeni 163-4, 184, 192 Khangsar 157-8 Taujung Tsho 95 immunisations 345-6 Kageni 263 Khari 115 Thonak Tsho 96 independent treks 23 Kagmara Glacier 262 Khari Gompa 74 Tilicho Tal 157, 158, 160 Kagmara La Trek 261-2, Kharte 221 Titi Lake 171 256 Khasrubas 105 Tshom Tso 281 Kagmara Phedi 261 Khayer Lake 135 Lali Kharka 242 Kaigaon 260 Map Pages 000 Khesewa 242 Lamo Pokhari 235 Kali Gandaki 166-8, 170-1 Photo Pages 000 Khingar 163 Landruk 139 365 landslides 41 M Mitlung 235 Museum 157 Langmale Kharka 232 Machha Khola 214 mobile phones 16, 334-5 Mustang Eco Museum Langshisha Kharka 203 Machhapuchhare 140 Modi Gorge 136 194 Langtang, Helambu & Machhapuchhare Base Modi Khola 138 Narayanhiti Palace Manaslu 44, 196-217, 197 Camp 138, 141 Mohare Danda 135 Museum 50 accommodation 198 85, 94 monasteries, see gompas Nauche Gonda Visitor

Centre 120 INDEX climate 196 Machim 271 & monasteries Sagarmatha National earthquake damage Magar people 312 money 16, 331-3 Park Visitor Centre 198, 199 magazines 327 safety 42 120

-films 198  L Makalu 220-33 moneychangers 332 Sherpa Culture Museum permits & regulations Makalu-Barun National Mong La 92 120  N 198, 211 Park 85, 226, 229 Monjo 72 Mushe 116 planning 198 Makalu Base Camp 232 monkeys 317 Mustang 13, 180-92, 12 towns & facilities Makalu Base Camp Trek Mopung 110 216-217 accommodation 184 229-33, 222-3 Moreni 272 travel seasons 196 books 183 malaria 348 motorcycle travel 343-4 travel to/from 198 earthquake damage 182 Mamanke 242 mountaineering 34-5 Langtang Valley 199-208 emergencies 183 Manang 154, 155-7, 159 mountains & peaks 141 Langtang Valley Trek festivals 184 Manaslu 44, see also Ama Dablam 83, 102 199-203, 200-1 films 183 Langtang, Helambu & Bokta 220 language 16, 352-8 Manaslu geography 181-2 Boktoh 244 Lapsang 244 Manaslu Trek 15, 211-16, history 180-1 Chhukung Ri 85 Lar Tsa 276 212-13, 15 maps 183 Everest 89 Larjung 168-9, 170 Manaslu Himal 211-16 people & culture 182 Ghat 70 Laurebina Yak 207 Manepene 283 permits 183 Gokyo Ri 96, Lawan 265 Mani Rimdu 22, 65 19 planning 183-4 Hongku Chuli 232 Lawichasa 78 mani walls 187 religion 182-3 Island Peak 85 leeches 336 maps 31, 35, see also Treks travel to/from 184 Jannu 238 legal matters 331 subindex for trek maps Mustang Trek 184-92, 185 Kailash 284 Lelep 238 Annapurna region 127 Myabrak 163 Khumbila 74 leopards 316 eastern Nepal 219 Kongma Tse 85, 101-3 Letdar 159, 160 Everest region 66 Kusum Kangru 70, 85 N Lete 172 Humla 278 Najingdingma 224-5 Kwangde 85 Lhabarma 93 inner Dolpo 275 Namche Bazaar 73-7, 91, Kyajo Ri 85 Lho 215 Manaslu 211 92, 97, 119-23, 74, Lobuche East 85 Lhonak 240 Mustang 183 120-1 Machhermo 85 310-11 Nar-Phu 174 names 308 Mera Peak 226 Limbu villages 242 western Nepal 250 Namgyal 190 Naya Kangri 203 Limi bowls 283 Mardi Himal 141 Namrung 215 Numbur 110 Limi Valley Trek 279-85, Marduwa 228 Nangathanti 130 Pharilapche 85 280 marijuana 251, 331 Nangi 135 Pokhalde 85 Linkhim 241 Marpha 166-7 Nangkartshang Sunder Peak 75 Lissannivich, Boris 293 Masigaon 279 Hermitage 84 Yala Peak 203 literature, see books Matthiessen, Peter 269 Naphukana 259 movies 90, 183, 198, 251, Lo Manthang 188-90 measures 327 Nar 179 290 load shedding 55 medical services 42, 347, Nar Phedi 179 Moving Mountains Trust Loba people 182 see also health, individ- Nar-Phu 174-80 ual locations 115 Lobuche 86-7, 89 Nar-Phu Trek 175-84, 176 Kathmandu 58-9 Muchu 284 lodges 324-5 national parks & Everest 66, 123 Muktinath 161, 162, 164 Lubra 164 conservation areas 33, Western Nepal 250, 278 Muna 271 318-19 Lukla 68, 91, 92, 97, 100, Mungji 155 117-18, 220-1 Melamchi Ghyang 210 Annapurna Conservation Muni Sangu 259 Area 154 Lukla to Tumlingtar Trek Mende 74 museums 220-9, 222-3 Mendok Ding 276 Api Nampa Conservation Gurung Traditional Area 285 Lumbang 230 Meshar Danda 136 Museum 132 Dhorpatan Hunting Lumde 103, 104 Meta 177 Hanuman Dhoka 49 Reserve 272 Lumsum 271-2 Milarepa’s Cave 156, 157, 215 International Mountain Khaptad National Park Luri Gompa 191 Museum 192 285 Milinggo 79 Luza 93 Manang Cultural 366 national parks & passes Phakding 71 Polenza, Agostino da 86 conservation areas Amphu Lapcha 85 Phalate 133, 174 politics 290-1 continued Baga La 268 Phedi (Annapurna region) Poon Hill 131, 138 Makalu-Barun National Balangra La 260 133, 138 population 291 Park 85, 226, 229 Cho La 97, 102 Phedi (eastern Nepal) porters 23, 26-8 Rara National Park 251-5 Danphe Lagna 252 227-8 postal services 333

INDEX INDEX Sagarmatha National Phedi (western Nepal) 271 Park 72, 120, 122 Ghungru La 231 Pothana 139 Ghurchi Lagna 254 Pheriche 82-3, 84, 86, prayer flags 58, 310 Shey Phoksumdo 89-90 Jaljala La 272 prayer wheels 310 National Park 262 Phoksumdo Lake 262-5, -N  Nawarpani 266 Kagmara La 261, 262 269, 275-7 public holidays 333-4 S  Naya Pul 129, 144, 174, Kang La 179-80 Phoksumdo Lake to Shey Pun, Mahabir 135 193-4 Keke La 231 Gompa Trek 275-7 Pungmo 262 Nepal basics 16-17 Khari La 115, 221 Phoksumdo Lake Trek Pungyen 215 Nepalganj 286-7 Kongma La 97, 100-2 262-4 352-8 Lakya La 215 Phoksumdo Lake via Do Tarap Trek 264-9 R 311 Mauri Lagna 259 rabies 348 Phole 238 newspapers 327 Meso Kanto La 160 310-11 Phortse 90, 97 Ney Guru Sang Phuk 155 Nara La 284 rakshi 330 Phortse Thenga 92 Ngadi 146 Numa La 268 Ramche 244 photography 333 Ngawal 154, 180-79 Nyi La 187, 192 Ranipauwa (Annapurna Nghe Kharka 232 Pangum La 224 Phu 177-8 region) 161-3 Ngozumpa Glacier 91 Phagune Dhuri 272-3 Phu region, see Nar-Phu Ranipauwa (Humla) 284 Phugmocche 110 Ngozumba Ri 96 Renjo La 97, 103 Rara Lake Trek 251-5, 253 Nha 97 Salpa Pass 227 Phulaji Kala 86 Rara National Park 251-5 Numa La Base Camp Shipton La 231 Phuleli 114 recycling 84 267, 268 Shyangmochen La 187 Phumphe 242 religion 291 Numbur Cheese Circuit 116 Surke La 225 Phunki Thenga 78 animism 311 Nunthala 114 Thorung La 149, 161, 164 Phurte 74 Buddhism 267, 311 Nyalu Lagna 281 Thorung Phedi 160, 161 Phurteng 111 Hinduism 394, 395 Nyi La 187, 192 Trakshindu La 114 phuru 283 religious sites 18, see also passports 337 Phurumbu 241 gompas & monasteries Pisang, Lower 153 O Pathibhara & Limbu Renje 263 Cultural Trail 245 Okarpata 255 Pisang Peak 141 responsible trekking 34 Pattyata Lagna 259 online resources, see Pisang, Upper 154 restricted areas, see internet resources Paungda Danda 151 planning 21-35, 36-9, see entrance fees & permits opening hours 332 Peak of Terror 238 also internet resources, Rimi 260 individual regions organised treks & climbs peak trekking 34-5 Rimijung 71 23, 28-31, 35 Pelung Tang 268 budgeting 16-17 Ringmo (Annapurna Orsho 81 Pema Choling Gompa 71 clothing 36, 36-7, 38 region) 111 outdoor equipment, people 306-13 documents 31-3 Ringmo (western Nepal) see clothing, equipment Bahun 312 equipment 36, 37-9 264, 269 Bhotia 308-9 essentials 21 Roberts, Jimmy 142, 293 fees 31-3 Roop Gaad 261 P Chhetri 312 Dolpopa 309 guides & porters 23, Padmara 252 26-8 Gurung 311 Pahar zone 315 information S Kirati 311 Paiya 115, 221 organisations 31 safety 40-2, 334, see Limbu 310-11 also earthquake Palam 263 maps 31, 35 Loba 182 damage Panchase Trek 128, 128 Nepal basics 16-17 Magar 312 airlines 341-2 Pang Pema 240 permits 34-5 Newar 311 earthquake warning Pangboche 79 safety 40-2 stickers 53 Rai 310-11 Pangjung 71 travel seasons 16-17 electricity cuts 55 Sherpa 77, 120, 310 Pangka 95 trek descriptions 27 Kathmandu 59 Tamang 309 Pangoma 114 trekking regions 43-4 scams 334 Thakali 309 Pangum 221 when to trek 21-3, 24 travel warnings 329 Tibetan 309-10 plants 318, 319 yaks 72 Yolmo 208 poaching 321 Saga Dawa 22 Map Pages 000 permits, see entrance fees 143, 192-3, 126 Sagarmatha National Park Photo Pages 000 & permits short treks 128, 128 72, 120, 122 367 Sahar Tara 274-5 stupas 309 temples, see gompas & tongba 233 Sahardara 271 Bodhnath Stupa 49 monasteries Torontan 243 Saipal Base Camp Trek 286 Hillary Memorial Tendor 228 tourism 291, 322 Sakathum 238 Stupa 77 Tengboche 78-9 Trans-Himalayan saligrams 166 Kathesimbhu Stupa 49 Tengboche Gompa 78 Highway 181 Salung 111 Namche Stupa 119 Tengboche Monastery 78 trans-Himalayan trade 301

Sama 215 Stupa Tengi 159 travel seasons 16-17 INDEX Samar 187 52 tents 38-9 travel to/from Nepal Samdo 215 Suketar 235, 244 Tesho 74 337-40

-Samshing 74 Suli Gaad 263 Thabla Kharka 135 travel within Nepal 340-4  S Sanam 227 Sumduwa 262, 263 Thadokoshi 70 language 354-5  V Sangbadanda 105 Sumnag Cave 104 Thagnak 226 trek ratings 17 Sankta 263 Sundarijal 217 309 trekking 23-31, 24-5, see Sunder Peak 75 Thame 73-4, 75, 104 also entrance fees & scams 334 permits, Treks subindex Surkhe 115 Thamel 52-4, 56-7 Schalle, George B 269 agencies 30-1, 35 Swanta 133, 135 Thamo 74 Scoundrel’s Viewpoint 96 base camp views 20 seasons 21-3, 24, see Syabrubesi 201, 203, Thanchowk 151 216-17 camping 23, 26 also individual regions Thangtong Gyalpo 75 Syang 166 community trails 135 Seduwa 230 Tharamara 252 Syange 148 descriptions 27 Seng Khola 274 Thare 97 Syauli Bazaar 144 difficulty levels 24 Serkam 266 Tharepati 207, 210 environmental issues 321 Sete 108-9 Tharpu Chuli 141 high passes 20 Share 227 theft 42 T history 292-3 sheep caravans 278 Tadapani 131, 132, 136, 143 Thimbu 210, 217 independent 23 77 Taglung 140 Thini 166 insurance 331 sherpas 77, 120, 310 Tagnag 102 Thomde 74 language 355 Sherpa villages Takur valley 273 Thore 97 lodges 23, 324-5 Gyabla 238 Tal 149 Thorung La 149, 161, 164 low-altitude treks 18 Sibuje 224 Tal Besi 149 Thorung Phedi 160, 161 mountaineering 34-5 Shey Gompa to Jomsom Tal Tole 266 Three Passes Trek 13, 97- organised treks 23, Trek 285-6 104, Tallo Phedi 228 98-9 28-31, 35 Shikha 174-3 Thulo Bharkhu 201, 203, Tamang Heritage Trail peaks 34-5, 141 Shingjungma 281 203, 202 217 Pokhara area 128, 128 Shipton, Eric 231 309 Thulo Phokte 227 remote treks 20 Shivalaya 119 Tangbe 186-4 Thumbuk 110 Trekking Agencies’ Shivalaya to Lukla Trek Thumma 235 Tapethok 238 Association of Nepal 31 104-16, 106-7, 112-13 Thyangbo 75 Taplejung 235, 247 trekking lodges 23, 324-5 Shomare 81 311 Tapriza Cultural School Trokpi Kharka 224 Shree Kharka 158 263 20, 311 Tsarang 188 Shyangboche 76 Tara Khet 270 309-10 Tukuche 168 Shyangmochen 187, 192 Tarakot 265, 275 Tibrikot 260 Tumkot 284 Sibuje 224 Tarke Ghyang 205 22 Tumlingtar 229, 245 Simikot 279, 285, 288 Tarnga 104 Tiji Festival 22, 184, 19 Sinchebu Bhanjyang 242 Tashigaon 230-1 Tikhedhunga 130 Singu Chuli 141 Tashinga 78 Til 283 U Sinja 255 Tatopani (Annapurna Tilicho Base Camp Hotel Ulleri 130 Sinuwa 140 region) 173 158, 159 Unshisha 231 Sinwa 235 Tatopani (western Nepal) Tilicho Tal 157, 158, 160 Upper Khangsar 158 Sishul Khola 266 270, 273 Tilman, HW (Bill) 82, Uthugaon 252 Sisnamul 252 Tawa 241 226, 293 taxes 332-3 Timang 151 sleeping bags 39 V taxis 344 Timbu 114 Snellgrove, David 267 vacations 333-4 Snow Leopard, The 269 teahouse trekking 23, time 16, 335, 354 324-5 vaccinations 345-6 snow leopards 316, 317 TIMS card 31-3, 61 teashops 325-6 vegetarian travellers 330 Somde 75 tipping 333 Telekhu 151 viewpoints 18, 20 Stones of Silence 269 Toijem 261 telephone services 16, village culture 19 stoves 39 toilets 335 334-5 visas 16, 60, 335-6 strikes 334 Toktok 72 Tembewa 242 volunteering 34 Tolka 133, 139 368 W wildlife 316-18 TREKS Kanchenjunga South 241-4, water 150, 348 wildlife reserves 318-19 Annapurna Circuit 11, 144- 236-7 Watha 243 wolves 316 75, 10-11, 145, 152-3, Khopra Ridge 133-6, 134 weather, see climate 312-13 165, 172 Langtang Valley 199-203, weights 327 women trekkers 42, 336 Annapurna Dhaulagiri Com- 200-1 western Nepal 44, 248-88, munity Trail 135, 134 Limi Valley 279-85, 280 INDEX INDEX 249 Annapurna Panorama Lukla to Tumlingtar 220-9, Y 129-33, 130 222-3 accommodation 251 Yak Kharka 159 13, Makalu Base Camp 229-33, architecture 248 yaks 72, 96 TREKS 131, 136-44, 137, 13 222-3  books 251 Yalbang 285 Around Dhaulagiri 286 Mustang 184-92, 185 climate 248 Yalung Bara 243 Around Manaslu 15, 211-16, Nar-Phu 175-84, 176 culture 248 Yalung Glacier 244 212-13, 15 Numbur Cheese Circuit 116 earthquake damage 250 Yamphudin 242 Beni to Dolpo 269-75, 270 Panchase 128, emergencies 250 Yangle Kharka 231-3 128 Dudh Kunda-Pikey Cultural Pathibhara & Limbu environment 250 Yangpang 242 Trail 116 Cultural Trail 245 highlights 249 Yari 284 Everest Base Camp 11, Phoksumdo Lake 262-4 history 249-50 yartse gumpa 269 68-91, 69, 80, 11 maps 250 Phoksumdo Lake to Shey yetis 18, 82 Ganja La 204-5, 204 Gompa Trek 275-7 movies 251 208 Ghachok 128, 128 Phoksumdo Lake via Do planning 248, 250-1 Ghandruk Loop 128, 128 Tarap 264-9 porters 251 Gokyo 91-7, 95 Rara Lake 251-5, 253 towns & facilities 286-8 Z Zamfute 71 Gosainkund 205-8, 206 Saipal Base Camp 286 travel to/from 251 Zarok 76 Guerrilla 286 Shey Gompa to Jomsom travel seasons 248 Helambu Circuit 208-10, 285-6 views 248 209 Shivalaya to Lukla 104-16, wi-fi 331 Jumla to Dunai 258-61 106-7, 112-13 Kagmara La 261-2 Tamang Heritage Trail 203, Kanchenjunga North 235- 202 41, 236-7 Three Passes Trek 13, 97- 104, 98-9

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 369 NOTES 370 NOTES 371 NOTES 372 NOTES 373 NOTES 374 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 375

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Trekking Route Shinto Hut/Shelter Alternative Trekking Route Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Bradley Mayhew Coordinating author; Kathmandu; Everest Region; Langtang, Helambu & Manas- lu; Eastern Nepal A self-professed mountain junkie, Bradley has been trekking in the for 20 years now, from north Pakistan and Zanskar to and . For previous editions of this guide he’s trekked in Nar-Phu, Dolpo, Langtang and the . For this edition he concentrated on the Everest region and Manaslu. Bradley is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet guides to Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, and Central Asia, as well as the Odyssey guide to Uzbekistan. He has lectured on Central Asia to the Royal Geographical Society and was the subject of two Arte/ SWR documentary series, one retracing the route of Marco Polo, the other hiking Europe’s ten best long-distance trails. See what he’s currently up to at www.bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Lindsay Brown Annapurna Region; Western Nepal The Nepal Himalaya is a favourite destination for Lindsay, a keen trekker and former conservation biologist. Lindsay first visit- ed Nepal over 25 years ago and has spent the last decade or so regularly visiting the country to hit the trails. He has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled across many a mountain pass while contributing to Lonely Planet’s Bhutan, , Nepal, and Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway guides, among many others.

Stuart Butler Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu; Eastern Nepal Stuart first travelled to Nepal over twenty years ago and has been a frequent visitor to both Nepal and the greater Himalaya region ever since. From the far north of Norway to the moun- tains of Yemen and the forests of the Congo, he has walked in many mountain and wilderness areas around the world. Today he lives with his wife and young son and daughter on the beaches of southwest France, right at the foot of the beautiful Pyrenees mountains. He’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Spain guide. His website is www.stuart butlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler

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