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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Bradley Mayhew edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Thanks to Kim Bannister of Kamzang Treks and advice and interesting anecdotes: Lhakpa Sherpa of Khumbu Adventures. Thanks A Ah Yew Lim, Alan Bahl, Anat Werbner, Andrea to Niraj Shrestha and Rajesh Karki of the always Gillarduzzi, Andreas Stimm, Andrew Whitmarsh, Anne professional Himalayan Encounters. Dawa Gyaljen Forget-Levasseur, Artur Wróbel, Avishai Green B Bill Sherpa and his father gave great Rolwaling tips. Prime, Brandon Hausmann C Charles Ruechel, Chel- Tejanath Pokharel in Khandbari was helpful with sea Phillilppe, Corlius Jooste, Curtis Miller D Daniel Makalu information. Phurba Gyaltsen Sherpa was a Jones, David Galloway , David Kleinberg, Don Buckley great porter-guide in the Khumbu, as ever. Cheers to E Evie Lim G Guillaume Roberge H Henry Coulter, Mukhiya and Maya, and to Dave, Cecile and Nieves, Henryk Blasinski I Ian Macdonald, Inbal Frankenstein who were fine trekking companions in Manaslu and J Jake Strauss, Jane Corrie, Jay Thompson-Westra, Tsum. Namgyal Ngodup generously offered lots of Jean-Pierre Mélon, Jeffrey Grabow, Jenny Morgan, info on his native Tsum. Love to Kelli and thanks for Jessica Alderman, Jochen Schuhmacher, John coming to Kathmandu to see me! Sanderson, John Wall, Jonathan Wickens K Kitty Dun- can L Larry Gems, Lauren Ruff , Laurence Wilbraham, Lindsay Brown Lydia Murphy M Marleen Lin, Mazlina Tahir, Michael I am very grateful for the guidance of Stan Arm- Schindler, Mikael Persson, Mizio Matteucci, Muzzi ington, Nepal trekking pioneer and author of the Hoole N Natalie Francis, Nicholas Kanaan P Paul first eight editions of this book. I also thank Durga Clements, Pete Thomas, Peter Bidstrup, Peter Diffey, Bandari, Dawa Lama (Big), Dawa Lama (Small), Ram Peter March, Petra Bolfing, Pierre Gaspart R Raanan Roka, Narendra Lama (ACAP), Vimal and Vijay from Greenman, Robert Thomas, Robert Kincaid, Robert nature-treks.com, and Ben Cester and Sinead Brown Thomas, Roberto Martinez, Roger Ray, Roland Eger, for accompanying me on the Khopra Ridge trek. Ronald Gallagher, Roshidah Hashim, Rosie Amesbury Cheers to fellow authors Bradley Mayhew and Stuart S Sabrina Laminger, Salvatore Cambria , Sam Miller, Butler, and last but not least, thanks to life and Scott Haggmark, Sebastian Sievers, Shai Roth, Simon travelling companion Jenny Fegent. Gamache, Susan Longman T Thomas Joller, Toby Frankenstein, Toby McAdams, Tom Stuart W William Chan X Xavi Pérez Y Yuval Yitzhak. 360 Stuart Butler First and foremost I must, once again, thank POST-EARTHQUAKE UPDATE my wife Heather, and children Jake and Grace for their patience with this long project, which Special thanks are due to the journal- involved so much time up in the mountains and ists and Nepal experts who helped to out of touch. In Nepal, huge thanks to Thiley update our content following the 2015 BEHIND THE SCENES Lama and Ghyalbu Tamang for a memorable earthquakes, specifically: Suraj Shakya, ascent of Yala Peak. Thanks to Durga Tamang Ajay Narsingh Rana, Nabin Baral, Rabik for advice with the Tamang Heritage Trail and Upadhayay, Abhi Shrestha, Niraj the Helambu treks. For an amazing Kanchen- Shrestha, Robin from Rural Heritage, junga trek thanks to Lakpa Dorje Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Aug Dawa Sherpa, Pemba Tony Jones from Himalayan Encounters Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Dipak Rai, Rames Lama, and Jennifer Berry from Kathmandu Pemba Tamang, A and Jun Tamang, Sankar Karki Inside Out. and, at Himalayan Glacier, thanks to Naba Raj Amgai for organising it all. Thanks also to Anna Hindmarsh and Radko for tips on Kanchenjunga ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS North. Finally, thanks to Ben Clift and John Gray Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson for accompanying me on the mountain trails, but BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of clearly Ben it would be you who would be eaten by the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- a jaguar first… ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Gokyo Ri, Sagarmatha National Park. Feng Wei Photography/Getty by Stan Armington. This Peter Cruttenden, Victoria Har- THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by rison, Gabrielle Innes, Lauren This 10th edition of Lonely the following: O’Connell Planet’s Trekking in the Destination Editor Joe Assisting Cartographers Nepal Himalaya guidebook Bindloss Hunor Csutoros, Corey Hutch- was researched and written Product Editors Kate Kiely, ison, Gabriel Lindquist by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Martine Power Cover Researcher Naomi Brown and Stuart Butler. The Senior Cartographer David Parker ninth edition was written and Kemp Thanks to Imogen Bannis- researched by Bradley May- Book Designer Wendy Wright ter, Kate James, Catherine hew and Joe Bindloss, while Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, the eighth edition was written Noble, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 361 Index Lukla 118 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek Bheri Kharka 139 See also subindex for Manang 129, 156 13, 131, 136-44, 137, 13 Bheteni 229 Treks, p368 alcohol 233, 330-1 antiques 327 Bhote Kosi Valley 103-4 altitude sickness 41, 349-51 area codes 17 Bhotia people 308-9 Ama Dablam Base Camp 83 Arughat 214, 217 Bhratang 151 2001 Royal Massacre 303, Amji Khola 243 Arun Valley 220-33 Bhulbule (Annapurna 304 Amjilosa 238 Arya 103-4 region) 146 2015 earthquakes 8-9, 290, Bhulbule (western Nepal) see also earthquake Amphu Lapcha 85 ATMs 332 254 damage AMS 41, 349-51 avalanches 41, 138 animals 316-18 Bibre 84 bicycle travel 342 A blue sheep 250, 317 B Bimtang 216 ACAP 154 yaks 72, 96 Babiyachour 270-1 Biratnagar 246 acclimatisation 350 animism 311 Babu Chhiri Sherpa 86, 114 birds 317-18 accommodation 324-6 Annapurna 142 backpacks 37-8 Birethanti 129, 144, 193-4 Annapurna region 127 Annapurna Base Camp Bagar 141 138-43 blue sheep 250, 317 eastern Nepal 218 Bagarchhap 150 Annapurna Circuit Trek 11, Bodhnath Stupa 49 Everest region 64-5, 66 Bahun people 312 144-75, 10-11, 145, Bonington, Chris 82, 142 Kathmandu 46, 52-4 Bahundanda 146 152-3, 165, 172 books 290, 292-3 Langtang, Helambu & Balasa 259 Annapurna Conservation birds 318 Manaslu 198 Balawa Besi 228 Area Project (ACAP) 154 culture 267, 311 language 353 Bamboo (Annapurna region) Annapurna Dhaulagiri eastern Nepal 220 Mustang 184 140, 143 Community Trail 135, western Nepal 251 Everest region 90 134 Bamboo (Langtang) 201 activities 326 health 347 Annapurna Himal 129-74 Banskharka 135 history 296, 298, 301, cycling 324 Banthanti 130, 131 Annapurna Panorama Trek 302, 303 extreme sports 88 bargaining 331 129-33, 130 Humla 278 mountaineering 34-5 Barun Glacier 232 Annapurna region 43, Mustang 183 acute mountain sickness 41, 124-95, 125 Basantpur 247 plants 319 349-51 accommodation 127 bathrooms 335 trekking peaks 35 Ahl Kharka 133 climate 124 Bayeli 135, 136 western Nepal 251 AIDS 347-8 conservation projects 154 bears 316 border crossings 339-40 air travel 341 culture 124 beer 330-1 Boukreev, Anatoli 142 helicopter rides 342 development 139, 181 begging 34 Brabal 201 safety 118, 341-2 earthquake damage Beni 288 Bragha 155 scenic flights 50 132, 182 Beni to Dolpo Trek Buddha Jayanti 65 to/from Nepal 337-9 emergencies 127 269-75, 270 Buddhism 267, 311 within Nepal 341-2 environment 126-7 Benkar 72 budget 16-17, see also costs airports & airstrips 337 explorers 170 Bera Goth 207 Bung 225 Dolpo 260 highlights 125 Besi Sahar 144, 194 Bupsa 115, 116 Jomson 129, 195 maps 127 Beti 261 bus travel 17, 343 Jumla 287 mountain views 124 Bhaktapur 48 business hours 332 Kathmandu 17 permits 127 Bhandar 108 planning 124, 127 Bhara 253 towns & facilities 192-5 Bharha Chuli 134 C Map Pages 000 travel seasons 124 bhattis 325-6 camping 326 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 127-9 Bhena 187 camping treks 23, 26 362 car travel 17, 343-4 Cho Phu 276 Deorali (Annapurna region) driving 17, 343-4 caste 306 Chogo La 191 139 duffle bags 37-8 caves Chongar viewpoint 156 Deorali (Annapurna Dudh Kosi 70-1 Chungsi Caves 186 Choprang Gompa 190 Sanctuary) 141 Dudh Kunda 110, 114, 116 Hulaki Odar 175 chortens 309, see also Deorali (Gosainkund) 207 Dudh Kunda-Pikey Cultural Luri Gompa 191 stupas Desio, Ardito 86 Trail 116 INDEX Milarepa’s Cave 156, Chosar 190 Deurali 105 Dudh Pokhari 95, 96 157, 215 Chotra 259 Dhagarjun 285-6 Dughla 86 Ney Guru Sang Phuk 155 Chulu East 141 Dhampus 138 Dumje 65-6 C- cell phones 16, 334-5 Chulu West 141 Dhan Kharka 134, 135 Dunai 261, 287-8 E Chabarbu 161
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