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Milday Textbook – Chapter 16 – Haircutting-21Yrj5r

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Milday Textbook – Chapter 16 – Haircutting-21Yrj5r 16Chapter Haircutting Chapter Outline Why Study Haircutting? Basic Principles of Haircutting Client Consultation Haircutting Tools Posture and Body Position Safety in Haircutting ART Basic Haircuts GOES Other Cutting Techniques HERE Clippers and Trimmers Procedures © Vadym Drobot, © 2010; Vadym used under license from Shutterstock.com. Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. Learning Objectives After completing this chapter, you will be able to: LO1 Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. LO2 Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. LO3 List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. LO4 Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. LO5 Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. LO6 Perform the four basic haircuts. LO7 Discuss and explain three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. LO8 Explain what a clipper cut is. LO9 Identify the uses of a trimmer. Key terms Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used. angle free-hand notching nape shrinkage pg. 346 pg. 377 pg. 346 pg. 347 apex free-hand slicing notching slicing pg. 345 pg. 378 pg. 377 pg. 377 beveling graduated haircut occipital bone slide cutting ART pg. 347 pg. 366 pg. 345 pg. 375 blunt haircut (one- graduation overdirection slithering (effilating) GOES length haircut) pg. 347 pg. 349 pg. 377 pg. 366 growth pattern palm-to-palm stationary guideline carving pg. 352 pg. 365 pg. 348 HERE pg. 377 guideline (guide) parietal ridge subsections cast pg. 348 pg. 345 pg. 347 pg. 355 15% hairline part/parting taper clipper-over-comb pg. 352 pg. 347 pg. 380 pg. 381 head form (head perimeter tension MulTiply cross-checking shape) pg. 348 pg. 364 pg. 367 pg. 344 point cutting texturizing crown interior pg. 376 pg. 376 pg. 346 pg. 348 razor-over-comb traveling guideline cutting line interior guideline pg. 379 (movable guideline) pg. 347 pg. 370 pg. 348 razor rotation distribution layered haircut pg. 379 uniform layers pg. 372 pg. 366 pg. 370 reference points elevation (projection, layers pg. 344 weight line lifting) pg. 366 pg. 366 pg. 347 scissor-over-comb line (shear-over-comb) forged pg. 346 pg. 375 pg. 355 long-layered haircut sections four corners pg. 366 pg. 347 pg. 345 16 Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. apunzel, Samson, Joan of Arc, and the Beatles had just a few of the haircuts that have influenced many of us over the years. Haircuts throughout history have often reflected a change in the thinking of the time. Consider women bobbing their hair to express a newfound Rfreedom in the 1920s or men and women whose refusal to cut their hair signaled protest during the 1960s. you will be able to give a great haircut once you have an understanding of the techniques and tools of cutting. And perhaps, one day, you will create the haircut that will rock the world. CosmetologistsWHY STUDY should study HAIRCUTTING?and have a thorough understanding of haircutting because: ■■ Haircutting is a basic, foundational skill upon which all other hair design is built. ■■ Being able to rely on your haircutting skills and techniques when creating a haircut is what will build confidence, trust, and loyalty between a cosmetologist and her clients. © Milady, a © part Milady, of Cengage Learning. Photography by Paul Castle, Castle Photography. ■■ The ability to duplicate an existing haircut or create a new haircut from a photo will build a stronger professional relationship between stylist and client. ■■ A good haircut that is easy to style and maintain will make clients happy with their service and will build repeat services. Basic Principles of Haircutting Good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head, referred to as the head form, also known as head shape. Hair responds differently on various areas of the head, depending on the length and the cutting technique used. Being aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you achieve the look that you and your client are seeking. Reference Points Reference points on the head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex. These points are used to establish design lines (Figure 16–1). An understanding of head shape and reference points will help you in the following ways: © Milady, a © part Milady, of Cengage Learning. • Finding balance within the design, so that both sides of the haircut turn out the same Figure 16–1 Reference points. • Developing the ability to create the same haircut consistently 16 344 Chapter 16 Haircutting Part 3: Hair Care Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. Figure 16–2 Figure 16–3 The parietal ridge. The occipital bone. Figure 16–4 • Showing where and when it is necessary to change technique to The apex. make up for irregularities (such as a flat crown) in the head form Standard reference points are defined below. Parietal ridge. This is the widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. This area is easily found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head: the parietal ridge is found where the head starts to curve away from the comb. The parietal ridge is also referred to as the crest area (Figure 16–2). Occipital bone. The bone that protrudes at the base of the skull is the occipital bone. To find the occipital bone, simply feel the back of the Figure 16–5 skull or place a comb flat against the nape and find where the comb Locating the four corners. leaves the head (Figure 16–3). Apex. This is the highest point on the top of the head. This area is easily located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head. The comb will rest on that highest point (Figure 16–4). Four corners. These may be located in one of two ways. One is by placing two combs flat against the side and back, and then locating the back corner at the point where the two combs meet (Figure 16–5). The second is by making two diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, which then point directly to the front and back corners (Figure 16–6). Figure 16–6 you will not necessarily use every reference point for every haircut, but Another way to locate the it is important to know where they are. The location of the four corners, four corners. for example, signals a change in the shape of the head from flat to round and vice versa. This change in the surface can have a significant effect on the outcome of the haircut. For example, the two front corners represent the widest points in the bang area. Cutting past these points can cause the bang to end up on the sides of the haircut once it is dry, creating an undesirable result. LO1 Areas of the Head The areas of the head are described below (Figure 16–7). • Top. By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on the top of the head. This hair lies on the head shape. Hair that grows below the parietal ridge, or crest, hangs because of gravity. you can locate the top by parting the hair at the parietal ridge, and Figure 16–7 The areas of the head. © Milady, a © part Milady, of Cengage Learning. continuing all the way around the head. Part 3: Hair Care Chapter 16 Haircutting 345 16 Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. • Front. By making a parting, or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that naturally falls in front of the ear from the hair behind the ear. Everything that falls in front of the ear is considered the front. • Sides. The sides are easy to locate. They include all hair from the back of the ear forward, below the parietal ridge. • Crown. The crown is the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge.
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