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Reims, France, at the Height of the Art Deco Era and Remains a Alike

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Reims, France, at the Height of the Art Deco Era and Remains a Alike FROM TOP: a stained-glass rose window in Notre- Dame Cathedral of Reims; araignee et brocolis at Le Château Les Crayères; Ruinart’s chalk cellar; rose biscuits from Maison Fossier BRIEF: were crowned over eight centuries. These days, a million visitors annually make the pilgrimage to see the soaring GO stained-glass windows (including some by famed modern- ist artist Marc Chagall) and hundreds of statues. Look on the north portal for the Smiling Angel, an icon of the city. DRINK: The list of Champagne houses in Reims proper reads like a New Year’s Eve roll call: Veuve Clicquot, Tait- tinger, Pommery. For a more intimate introduction, start by securing one of the limited number of spots on the tour at Ruinart, the oldest registered Champagne house (founded in 1729). Visitors descend nearly 12 stories to the 2,000-year-old chalk caves, where five miles of cellars provide the ideal nursery for Ruinart’s prestige cuvées. The friendly tours at G.H. Mumm (by reservation) provide an informative overview of the winemaking process — plus one or two glasses of bubbly to toast your new knowledge. Outside of Reims, the Route Touristique du Champagne (Champagne Trail) meanders through 80 stops along the 300-mile stretch. Rent a car and follow the signs, or con- sider a day tour with La Vigne du Roy, whose guides do the driving for you and provide insider access to estates across the region. STAY: A Relais & Châteaux property, Le Château Les C r a y è r e s in Reims is a regal, century-old manse set amid 17 acres of manicured gardens. Guests are greeted with a glass of Champagne (what else?) as they’re escorted to the 20 elegant rooms and suites. A WEEKEND IN: HY SETTLE FOR A CHAM- Another option is the Hôtel de la Paix, with 165 pagne cruise on the Seine modern, moderately priced rooms just steps from when you can sip the world’s the shops and restaurants of the Place Drouet Reims, most famous sparkling wine d’Erlon pedestrian street. Win situ? A mere 45-minute TGV train ride from Paris’ EAT: Having earned two Michelin stars, Le Parc Gare de l’Est station takes you to Reims, France, Les Crayères , the restaurant within Le Château France the historic heart of the Champagne region. This Les Crayères, pairs refined French fare with flaw- Hop the year’s harvest has already ended for the area’s less service in a majestic dining room. The vast FAST TRAIN 100,000 seasonal workers and 300 Champagne wine list provides perfect pairings for such sea- houses, making this month an ideal, laid-back time sonal dishes as delicate turbot with slices of arti- FROM PARIS to take in the fall colors in the vineyards, the sights choke and eggplant. Less of a splurge but equally for a fascinating in town and the tantalizing tastes in your glass. foray into Find contact information this sparkling DO: Destroyed in World War I, Reims was rebuilt for all of the places mentioned in this story at the height of the Art Deco era and remains a at AA.com/americanway French city. top destination for history and architecture buffs alike. The Tourism Office of Reims (adjacent to indulgent, La Table Anna serves such French the train station) rents self-guided audio tours to favorites as foie gras, escargot and a succulent Reims’ numerous historic sites. The Museum of duck breast with gingerbread crumbles in a warm, the Surrender recounts the major developments welcoming atmosphere. of World War II — particularly General Dwight SHOP: Founded in 1756, Maison Fossier is famous Eisenhower’s acceptance of the German army’s for the delicate rose biscuits that are a Reims spe- unconditional surrender in that very room. Reims’ cialty. Its shortbread cookies — with an outline of crown jewel, however, is the 801-year-old Notre- the cathedral — and honey-laced gingerbread also Dame Cathedral of Reims, where 29 French kings make scrumptious souvenirs. FROM TOP: PETER RICHARDSON/GETTY IMAGES; MAURICE ROUGEMONT; JOHN CAREY/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY MAISON FOSSIER 32 OCTOBER 01, 2012 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY 10.01 Brief_Go_Reims France.indd 32 9/12/12 6:21 AM AAP - Pitstop - _0CMVV_AW20121001-032.pdf September 12, 2012 06:23:16.
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