Food and Drink— — Food and Drink F

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Food and Drink— — Food and Drink F London London 2 F Food and drink— — Food and drink F Restaurants 2 Where to eat Riding House Café, Fitzrovia ling fr London classics e es e h Food and Best for brunch F — Fish is 01 Le Caprice, Piccadilly: Fitzrovia hasn’t always been blessed sourced from Richard Caring bought drink with destination restaurants so Devon and this old gem in 2005 — The art eyebrows were raised when Riding Cornwall along with its sister House Café opened in 2011 in a The Ivy (see below) and of dining converted 1950s office block. But overnight became the king the diner became a hit with locals of London’s established for its varied offerings, from brunch dining scene. This is white to cocktails (it’s open until midnight tablecloth and gleaming on Fridays and Saturdays). The wine glass territory but menu is modern brasserie, heavy oddly cosy, serving on steaks and with an extensive timeless dishes from small-plate offering. An added Europe and the US. pleasure is spotting bbc execs from le-caprice.co.uk nearby New Broadcasting House 02 The Ivy, Covent Garden: schmoozing the talent. In its heyday this was the 43-51 Great Titchfield Street, most difficult table in town W1W 7PQ to secure but recently 144 (0)20 7927 0840 the Ivy’s iconic diamond ridinghousecafe.co.uk mullioned windows have seemed a little less opaque and booking has London’s magnetic pull become a less laughable has tempted some of the affair. It’s still a great place world’s most promising for a stately steak tartare. chefs and restaurateurs the-ivy.co.uk to the British capital. But 03 Scott’s, Mayfair: A it’s not the high-profile seafood restaurant with an elegant olde-worlde crowd-pullers or big- 1 charm. Irish head chef brand openings that fill Rochelle Canteen, Shoreditch Dave McCarthy serves our culinary hitlist. Instead New-school hideaway impeccable shellfish. The we have hand-picked the mouthwatering selection best independent and Rochelle Canteen served simple of oysters is best eaten unique venues for differ- lunches to Shoreditch creatives under the famous black ent occasions: from client long before it was considered hip awning outside, weather dinners to must-impress to do so. The little sister of Soho permitting. watering hole The French House 3 scotts-restaurant.com lunches and cosy cran- and neighbour to the offices of Prawn on the Lawn, Islington 04 Wiltons, Piccadilly: After nies for dinner à deux. Frieze – the talented souls behind Super seafood a humble start as an oyster For an added treat we’ve the magazine and art fair of the stall in 1742, Wilton’s included an idiosyncratic same name – the canteen started as Perched at the rear of St Paul’s has grown up to become Indian venue, Polish fare a catering firm in 1995. In 2007 its Road is the splendidly named part of the establishment, with flair and a Greek glass concertina doors opened for Prawn on the Lawn. This humble known and favoured by restaurant that the locals daytime service. restaurant is an unfussy affair that aristocracy and Whitehall mandarins alike. would rather we kept Located in a converted Victorian operates as a fishmonger by day school close to a pioneering before pulling out a few seats and wiltons.co.uk quiet about. social-housing project from 1896 firing up the hob by night. The fish 05 Oslo Court, The vogueish global – London’s first – the canteen is as fresh as it gets (in landlocked St John’s Wood: Oslo obsession with filament features a secluded courtyard that London at least), delivered daily Court is like a journey bulbs and exposed offers a laidback retreat from the from the UK’s southwest coast. back in time with a menu brick walls may be well East End buzz. The menu changes Scallop ceviche, monkfish-and- to match. Expect steak accounted for in London daily as the chefs favour market- chorizo stew and split langoustine Diane, veal schnitzel but it’s the variety of fresh ingredients and experiment are some of the highlights of the Holstein and crab à La with new recipes, all simply ever-changing menu – paired Rochelle. utterly unique restaurants executed with French elegance. with homemade soda bread and oslocourtrestaurant.co.uk and passionate purveyors Rochelle School, Arnold Circus (just a manzanilla sherry, of course. that show the city in its off Club Row), E2 7ES 220 St Paul’s Road, N1 2LL best light. 144 (0)20 7729 5677 144 (0)20 3302 8668 arnoldandhenderson.com prawnonthelawn.com 028 029 London London 2 F Food and drink— — Food and drink F 4 6 Dinings, Marylebone Koya, Soho Cosy Japanese Udon utopia Fresh European produce and well- This Japanese udonya run by honed Japanese dishes make this head chef Junya Yamasaki has unassuming Edwardian townhouse made a splash with a repertoire an unmissable destination for an that goes beyond its springy intimate dinner. It was founded in signature ingredient. Yamasaki 2006 by former Nobu colleagues uses British produce to compile Tomonari Chiba, Keiji Fuku, an innovative Japanese menu. Masaki Sugisaki and Nick Taylor- Choose from the specials: they Guy and getting a table can be an change daily, chalked up on the Chocolate shops issue at the 28-seat stop. If you’re blackboard where Yamasaki’s lucky enough to grab a perch on team presents seasonal dishes. 01 Paul A Young, citywide: the benches, the Tar-Tar chips – Expect wild-rabbit confit with Award-winning British crisp potato creations served with carrot, red turnip and broad-bean chocolatier Young and a choice of vegetable, fish or meat salad; there’s also skate-wing-and- his team make the city’s fillings – are an apt introduction to cucumber-leaf tempura or stout- finest sea-salt caramel- its sophisticated tapas-style dishes. and-honey-braised pork belly. filled chocolate. 22 Harcourt Street, W1H 4HH 49 Frith Street, W1D 4SG paulayoung.co.uk 144 (0)20 7723 0666 144 (0)20 7434 4463 02 Rococo, citywide: dinings.co.uk koya.co.uk Chantal Coady’s shop is an artistically put-together 5 space. Try the delicious Khan’s, Notting Hill house truffles. An Indian fantasia rococochocolates.com 03 Mast Brothers, Gone are the hedonistic nights of Shoreditch: This this west London fixture – once Brooklyn chocolatier has beloved of expense-account the first commercial bean- entertainers hollering for endless to-bar chocolate factory trays of cheap pints and big in London plus a café and curries – but all is not lost. The a shop. Chocolate bars trompe l’oeil walls are all Raj are all made on the spot. perfection (as painted by numbers mastbrothers.com by a nine-year-old), the palm-tree pillars have been regilded and the butter chicken remains the best in London. It will have to be washed down by a mocktail rather than a 7 cheap lager now the joint no longer La Famiglia, Chelsea serves alcohol but the expertly Leisurely lunch spiced curry is still great value. 13-15 Westbourne Grove, W2 4UA Opened in 1966 by the late 144 (0)20 7727 5420 Alvaro Maccioni, this family-run khansrestaurant.com institution in southwest London’s well-heeled Chelsea is still going Curry strong. Located on a quiet street cravings off the King’s Road, La Famiglia — has a top-notch menu of Tuscan- Since London’s first influenced delights. Food-wise it’s Indian restaurant opened in a no-tricks, few-frills kind of place 1810, the Brits have been but that’s what you want from curry mad. So much so that an Italian: great quality and an many people view chicken atmosphere to boot. It’s a good spot tikka masala (with pilau for lunch but comes alive at night, rice and a soft naan, of especially when the patio is opened course) as Britain’s rightful to diners during the summer. national dish. 7 Langton Street, The World’s End, SW10 0JL 144 (0)20 7351 0761 lafamiglia.co.uk 030 031 London London 2 F Food and drink— — Food and drink F 11 Ibérica, Farringdon Sublime Spanish cuisine If you don’t fancy an 05.00 rise for a glimpse of the impressive Smithfield meat market nearby, book a table at Ibérica to sample some of the tastiest examples of what these cuts can become. Located in Farringdon, the Spanish restaurant is perfect for sharing platters of jamón ibérico (cured for at least 45 months) and mini burgers stuffed with tender pork loin and piparra peppers. Take a perch on the high leather stools 9 in front of the ornate gold detailing Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack, of the bar for a taste of the menu Fitzrovia concocted by two-Michelin-starred Sea change chef Nacho Manzano. 89 Turnmill Street, EC1M 5QU Fish and chips may not have the 144 (0)20 7636 8650 culinary cachet of other more ibericarestaurants.com sophisticated national dishes but 10 the beer-battered North Sea I’ll probably haddock with dripping chips St John, Farringdon have that and mushy peas at the Bonnie Private-dining delight first Michelin Gull Seafood Shack could well star by the convince the doubters. What Twenty years on from its launch, time this is started in Islington as a temporary Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail cooked restaurant run by co-founder eating revolution still influences Alex Hunter and Danny Clancy chefs, menus and working practices 8 has blossomed into one of our across the UK and over the pond. The Palomar, Piccadilly favourite Fitzrovia stop-ins since The menu is a thing of simple Friendly service opening in early 2013.
Recommended publications
  • A Message from Mark Price - Waitrose MD Celebrating International Picnic Day the History of Cocktails
    Food & Wine June 2013 The Journal of The International Wine & Food Society Europe & Africa Committee Free to European & African Region Members - one per address - Issue 115 A Message from Mark Price - Waitrose MD Celebrating International Picnic Day The History of Cocktails © Brittany Ferries 1 CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE Dear Members, Writing to you at three monthly intervals certainly brings home how quickly they pass. For Eve and me this period has seen relocation from our home of 39 years to something smaller, albeit within sight of the previous property. We were pleased to be able to find time to attend events of both the Manchester and the Merseyside & Mid-Cheshire branches, including their respective Annual General Meetings. I write this near the end of April and we are looking forward to attending a Liverpool branch event for the first time. Terry Lim and friends are to be congratulated on building that branch into a viable entity in a short space of time. Congratulations are also due to the Zurich branch for organising a very successful break in the Lake Maggiore area this April. That leads me to mention news of some other areas where prospects are being nurtured. Experience has taught us that a promising start is no guarantee of getting sufficient members for a provisional charter to be granted but Latvia and Athens are two possibilities. So also is Munster and in that connection, if you have friends who live in or around Cork who might be interested in joining a branch in that area then please pass details to Katie Wilkins (contact notes appear next to the Editorial) so that they can be notified of developments.
    [Show full text]
  • Northcote Obsession
    OBSESSION BOOKING HOTLINE: 0333 999 7762* OPENS 8am TUESDAY 17th OCTOBER 2017 *Bookings cannot be taken before the hotline opens Nurtured, harvested, exported, roasted by artisans... brewed by you. The difference is Gaggenau. You spend time searching out selectively-picked, organic Arabica, sun-dried in deepest Yirgacheffe. All this you stipulate. Because when it comes to actually brewing the bean, you have the means to turn all that potential into your cup of coffee. The new lighting concept of our fully automatic espresso machine puts the cup in the limelight. The intuitive TFT touch display makes it simple to create your ideal coffee and save your preferences; each cup will now be as perfect as the first. However you take your coffee, take it seriously. For more information, please visit www.gaggenau.com. Northcote_CoffeeCulture_210x297_SP_UK.indd 1 14.09.17 09:17 2001 TERRY LAYBOURNE 21 Queen Street, Newcastle PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London NICK NAIRN Nairn’s, Glasgow NIGEL HAWORTH & CHARLES METCALFE Northcote, Lancashire 2002 GERMAIN SCHWAB Winteringham Fields, Lincolnshire PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London ROBBIE MILLAR Shanks Restaurant, Bangor BRIAN TURNER Turners Restaurant, London DANIEL COUET Fredsgaten 12, Stockholm NIGEL HAWORTH & CHARLES METCALFE Northcote, Lancashire 2003 CHRIS & JEFF GALVIN Orrery & The Picasso Room, London CHRISTIAN OLSSON Vassa Eggen, Stockholm PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London HESTON BLUMENTHAL The Fat Duck, Berkshire JOHN TORODE Smiths of Smithfield, London NIGEL WIGGLESWORTH Twin Farms, USA NIGEL
    [Show full text]
  • Guardian and Observer Editorial
    guardian.co.uk/guides Welcome | 3 Dan Lepard 12 • Before you start 8 Yes, it’s true, baking is back. And • Meet the baker 12 whether you’re a novice pastry • Bread recipes 13 • Cake 41 roller or an expert icer, our • Pastry 69 scrumptious 100-page guide will • Baking supplies 96 take your enjoyment of this relaxing and (mostly) healthy pursuit to a whole new level. We’ve included the most mouthwatering bread, cake and pastry recipes, courtesy of our Tom Jaine 14 baking maestro Dan Lepard and a supporting cast of passionate home bakers and chefs from Rick Stein and Marguerite Patten to Ronnie Corbett and Neneh Cherry. And if Andi and Neneh 42 you’re hungry for more, don’t miss tomorrow’s Observer supplement on baking with kids, and G2’s exclusive series of gourmet cake recipes all next week. Now get Ian Jack 70 KATINKA HERBERT, TALKBACK TV, NOEL MURPHY your pinny on! Editor Emily Mann Executive editor Becky Gardiner All recipes by Dan Lepard © 2007 Additional editing David Whitehouse Recipe testing Carol Brough Art director Gavin Brammall Designer Keith Baker Photography Jill Mead Picture editor Marissa Keating Production editor Pas Paschali Subeditor Patrick Keneally Staff writer Carlene Thomas-Bailey Production Steve Coady Series editor Mike Herd Project manager Darren Gavigan Imaging GNM Imaging Printer Quebecor World Testers Kate Abbott, Keith Baker, Diana Brown, Nell Card, Jill Chisholm, Charlotte Clark, Margaret Gardner, Sarah Gardner, Barbara Griggs, Liz Johns, Marissa Keating, Patrick Keneally, Adam Newey, Helen Ochyra, Joanna Rodell, John Timmins, Ian Whiteley Cover photograph Alexander Kent Woodcut illustration janeillustration.co.uk If you have any comments about this guide, please email [email protected] To order additional copies of this Guardian Guide To..
    [Show full text]
  • Game Recipes for Charity Chefs
    VERSION 4 THE COUNTRY FOOD TRUST GAME RECIPES FOR CHARITY CHEFS The Country Food Trust is a charity food producer making top quality protein based read meals in ambient pouches which we donate to charities that feed people in need. Currently we have three products : The Country Casserole, a nutritious and warming pheasant casserole The Country Curry, a mildly spicy pheasant curry The Country Bolognese, a rich and tasty venison ragu. Since inception in 2015 we have produced over 1.9 million meals, which are donated to those in food poverty through charities that feed people in need or through amazing charities like FareShare who distribute food nationwide to other charities. We have now started to work with charities that can accept frozen game meat and make great fresh meals for their customers. To help chefs who may not be familiar with game our Chef Tim Maddams has reached out to a host of well-known and expert game chefs and asked them to produce recipes using either minced, diced or whole pheasant or partridge breasts and minced venison using ingredients likely to be found in a charity kitchen and able to be prepared in a kitchen with limited equipment. All of them gave their time freely to produce these recipes and top food photographer James Murphy did the photography free of charge. We were delighted with the response and thank them all profoundly - even if one or two of the chefs found the simplicity of the request a challenge! We hope the following pages will give you some ideas that will help you prepare delicious food for those that you are looking after.
    [Show full text]
  • Our Best-Known Faces Our Best-Known & Grill in the ‘80S, Heralding a Sea Change in the Restaurant Scene, and Still Influences Today, As a Judge on Great British Menu
    Chris Corbin and Jeremy King Co-founders, Corbin and King The duo behind some of the capital’s most loved dining rooms, including The Wolseley, who continue to expand. Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi Co-founders, Ottolenghi Jerusalem-born Ottolenghi and Tamimi have hugely influenced both the way we (professionals and home cooks) shop and eat. Phil Howard Co-owner, Elystan St, Sonny’s, Kitchen W8 Michelin-starred super-chef (and survivor) who has been cooking in London for more than 20 years; countless protegés now running their Nick Jones own restaurants have him to thank. Founder, Soho House & Co. With properties opening in Hong Kong and Paris, the Anthony Demetre global expansion for Soho House continues apace. Chef owner, Wild Honey Jones is still very much at the forefront of the private Demetre’s Arbutus in Soho was a members’ club group that he founded in 1995 and game-changing restaurant and he’s continues to grow the business that has become one of been cooking in the capital for more the most influential hospitality brands in the world. than two decades, now at the relocated Wild Honey St James. Russell Norman Co-founder, POLPO A tenacious operator, Norman is responsible for the restaurant renaissance in London, bringing Negronis, squirrel-cage lightbulbs and small plates to diners. Mark Hix Chef owner, HIX Restaurants After 17 years at Caprice Holdings, Hix has become known for his originality and vision and has just published his 10th book. Oliver Peyton Restaurateur and broadcaster Peyton gave London the Atlantic Bar Our best-known faces Our best-known & Grill in the ‘80s, heralding a sea change in the restaurant scene, and still influences today, as a judge on Great British Menu.
    [Show full text]
  • The 1Oo Most Influential Women in Hospitality
    THE 1OO MOST INFLUENTIAL WOMEN IN HOSPITALITY Welcome to CODE’s inaugural list of she’s mature but she stays relevant by that despite the traditional view of the 100 most influential women working knowing everything that’s going on.” it being a business too punishing in British and Irish hospitality. With In the first category, chefs, for parents, it’s possible to combine industry stalwarts Ewan Venters (CEO judge Diana Henry noted that Pam motherhood with a successful career. of Fortnum and Mason), legendary Brunton is really ploughing her own Jeremy King came to the judging restaurateur Jeremy King of Corbin & furrow at Inver, and says of Angela table with a carefully annotated list. King, highly respected author Diana Hartnett, “I have huge admiration His own company is well known for Henry and Bloomberg food expert for her – I think she’s one woman its initiative to keep women in the Richard Vines, Adam Hyman and Lisa who shows other women that you business, and to help those returning Markwell have selected the women can be a successful female chef in after career breaks. King had studied who are trailblazers, highly successful, what is mostly a male world.” She the candidates in detail. “These inspirational, socially conscious … and also mentions the supportive kitchen women are not only doing their jobs just damned good at their jobs. environments run by Skye Gyngell as well, or better, than any man – they From the young woman pushing and Asma Khan. are also inspiring others, making at the staid world of sommeliers We believe this
    [Show full text]
  • Introduction
    INTRODUCTION It is not just the great works of mankind that make a culture. It is the daily things, like what people eat and how they serve it. • laURIE cOlWIn, Home cooking • When We eat, we travel. think back to your last trip. Which are the memories that stand out? If you’re anything like me, meals will be in the forefront of your mind when you reminisce about travels past. tortilla, golden and oozing, on a lazy Sunday in Madrid; piping hot shakshuka for breakfast in tel aviv; oysters INTRODUCTION shucked and sucked from their shells on Whitstable shingle. My memories of the things I saw in each of those places have acquired a hazy, sepia quality • 1 with the passing of time. But those dishes I remember in technicolour. as Proust noted on eating a petit madeleine* with his tea, food escorts us back in time and shapes our memory. the distinct flavours, ingredients and cooking techniques that we experience in other spaces and times are also a gateway to the culture in question. What we ate in a certain place is as im- portant, if not more so, than the other things we did there – visits to galleries and museums, walks, tours – because food quite literally gives us a taste of everyday life. Whenever I go abroad my focus is on finding the food most typical of wher- ever I am, and the best examples of it. Food typifies everything that is different about another culture and gives the most authentic insight into how people live. everyone has to eat, and food is a common language.
    [Show full text]
  • 84098E7 Pdf the Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating Fergus Henderson
    pdf The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Fergus Henderson - download pdf free book Free Download The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Full Version Fergus Henderson, full book The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, free online The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, online free The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, online pdf The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, pdf download The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, Download Free The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Book, read online free The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, Fergus Henderson epub The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, Download pdf The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, Download The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating E-Books, Read Online The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating E-Books, Read The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Online Free, Read The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Book Free, Read The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Ebook Download, The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating PDF read online, Free Download The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Best Book, The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Free PDF Download, The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Ebook Download, PDF Download The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating Free Collection, CLICK HERE - DOWNLOAD Why i read the novel multiple times the story. People and huge people would be able to learn how to need britain and will always be able to know what life 's hands for me. If you attended a book she'd never look to let her go and enjoy to know the truth.
    [Show full text]
  • Noble Rot 16
    George Reynolds uncovers some mythical gastronomic texts Images by Tom le French ROTTERS’ LOST COOKBOOKS* * NB No actual chefs were involved in the making of this article 16 Noble Rot Noble Rot 17 ere at Noble Rot we are – From Bollock to Arsehole Hof course – connoisseurs of the by Fergus Henderson most delicious restaurant dishes A true labour of love from the high priest of modern British food, this book should rightfully take its place alongside Nose to Tail Eating as one of the and finest wines, but love to turn our movement’s most important texts. And indeed, the interest generated around its launch was sizeable – only to subside mere weeks later as home hands to cookery, too. In this issue we cooks ran aground on some of the most challenging recipes the medium had seen. The signature mordant Henderson wit is on full display, but somehow had originally intended to run a list of could not entice people to attempt sow’s teat braised in Sauternes, soused bull’s pizzle, or a very different take on the St. John classic, a glass of favourite cookbooks compiled by the usual Madeira and a slice of seed cake. The occasional bold supper club pops up roster of celebrity chefs, but after a period from time to time proposing to take some of the tome’s most intimidating assemblies, but it truly takes a genius on Fergus’ level to make his of soul-searching we realised that we’re infamous spotted dick (“not that kind”) anything more than actively disgusting. not fucking Buzzfeed, and that you, our beloved Rotters, deserve so much more.
    [Show full text]
  • The Real Molecular Gastronomy Ac Le Guide Culinaire Carluccio’S
    Escoffier Antonio Carluccio E The real molecular gastronomy Ac Le Guide Culinaire Carluccio’s Marco Pierre White Gordon Ramsay Mario Batali Alain Ducasse Joel Robuchon Guy Savoy Rowley Leigh Ruth Rogers & Rose Gray 3* 3* 3* 3* 3* 1* Mpw Gr Escoffier Name Mb Ad Jr Gs Rl Rc 3* Highest number of Michelin Harveys Gordon Ramsay’s stars held (max 3) Babbo Alain Ducasse Joel Robuchon Guy Savoy Kensington Place The River Café Elemental abbreviation Roux Brothers Angela Hartnett E Elizabeth David Anthony Bourdain Bernard Loiseau Alain Chapel Ed Baines Jamie Oliver 3* 1* Le Guide Culinaire Reason best known for 3* 3* RxB Ah Ed Ab Bl Ac Eb Jo The Waterside Inn Murano Cookbook Queen Les Halles La Côte d’Or Alain Chapel Randall& Aubin Ubiquitous Mockney Marcus Wareing Mark Sargeant John Torode Richard Corrigan Simon Rimmer Theo Randall Tom Aikens Sat Baines Atul Kochhar Tom Kitchin Anton Mosimann Peter Gordon Nigel Slater Wolfgang Puck Tetsuya Wakuda Helen Darroze Dan Lepard Giorgia Locatelli 2* 1* 1* 1* 1* 1* 1* 2* 2* 2* Mw Ms Jt Rc Sr Thr Ta Sb Ak Tk Am Pg Ns Wp T Hd Dl Gl Marcus Wareing Claridge’s Masterchef Corrigan’s Mayfair Bald chap off the tv Theo Randall Tom Aikens From Nottingham! Tamarind The Kitchin Dorchester The Sugar Club Wulfrunian Spago Tetsuya’s The Connaught Baking Marvel Locanda Locatelli Raymond Blanc Jason Atherton Ken Hom Graham Kerr Fanny Cradock Keith Floyd Hugh Fearnley– Sophie Grigson Madhur Jaffrey The Hairy Bikers Rosemary Shrager Thomasina Miers Jill Dupleix Annie Bell Neil Perry Thomas Keller Mark Hix Andrew Needham
    [Show full text]
  • Noble Rotmeets Nigella. Words by Marina O'loughlin
    GODDESS THE Nigella Lawson, St John Restaurant, London, 8 August 2018 Noble Rot meets Nigella. Words by Marina O’Loughlin Photographs by Benjamin McMahon 26 Noble Rot here seem to be two approaches when writing about rarebit into the sauce of her our interview because Nigella Lawson: the first is to pick over her well- rabbit dish, and when I do it a) I’ve badgered her constantly, T documented, dramatic and sometimes tragic life with mimsily, instructs: “More! More!” and b) it’s now the 20th all the appetite of a gleeful vulture. And there’s a lot of it Meeting at St John has been anniversary of her first book, out there – I spend days immersed in the various sagas, her choice. Even in this coolest, the wonderful How to Eat. coming away with more than four pages of questions. But most grown-up of joints, her Penguin has reissued a new I don’t end up asking a fraction of them. One reason is that presence throws everyone paperback edition under its we’re warned off the private life by her management. Fair into a fugue. Despite reviewing Vintage Classics imprint, with enough, frankly. The other is that Nigella – the Lawson is restaurants for years (Charles a foreword by Jeanette now silent – is immensely articulate, as of course we know. Moore, her Spectator editor, Winterson. Twenty years: And voluble. A volubility facilitated by the other approach, said later, “You can’t be a good this seems remarkable to me. in which the writer is reduced to a blithering idiot, poleaxed restaurant critic unless you’re It has the twin qualities of into inarticulacy, unable to do much more than panic: greedy”; sadly, none of it feeling as though it has been “Oh.
    [Show full text]
  • The Flavour Thesaurus
    The Flavor Thesaurus A Compendium of Pairings, Recipes and Ideas for the Creative Cook Niki Segnit It seems fitting to dedicate this book to a pair: my cooking adviser and mother, Marian Stevens, and my writing adviser and husband, Nat Segnit. Contents Introduction ROASTED MEATY CHEESY EARTHY MUSTARDY SULFUROUS MARINE BRINE & SALT GREEN & GRASSY SPICY WOODLAND FRESH FRUITY CREAMY FRUITY CITRUSY BERRY & BUSH FLORAL FRUITY Bibliography A Note on the Author Copyright Page “. lamb and apricots are one of those combinations which exist together in a relation that is not just complementary but that seems to partake of a higher order of inevitability—a taste which exists in the mind of God. These combinations have the quality of a logical discovery: bacon and eggs, rice and soy sauce, Sauternes and foie gras, white truffles and pasta, steak-frites, strawberries and cream, lamb and garlic, Armagnac and prunes, port and Stilton, fish soup and rouille, chicken and mushrooms; to the committed explorer of the senses, the first experience of any of them will have an impact comparable with an astronomer’s discovery of a new planet.” John Lanchester, The Debt to Pleasure Introduction I hadn’t realized the depth of my dependence on cookbooks until I noticed that my copy of Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking had fingernail marks running below the recipes. Here was stark evidence of my timidity, an insistence on clinging to a set of instructions, like a handrail in the dark, when after twenty years of cooking I should surely have been well enough versed in the basics to let go and trust my instincts.
    [Show full text]