Irish bird sites K. Preston

his list of 51 Irish ornithological sites is intended to give an indication of Tthe types of habitat and species encountered at areas chosen for their variety and geographical distribution; it is not an attempt to catalogue the localities most important for conservation considerations. Consequently, the selection has been arbitrary and a number of important sites have been omitted, so that a representative cross-section of Irish habitats—with a few exceptions, all readily accessible to the visiting ornithologist—can be included. It must be emphasised that certain features for which Ireland is ornitho- logically important cannot be readily assigned to definite sites, and other phenomena, such as the large-scale seabird passages for which Cape Clear Island has become famous, can be observed at a large number of sites. The vast hordes of Golden Plovers and Lapwings wintering in Ireland form, to a large degree, a mobile population moving from place to place; similarly, the huge flocks of thrushes and finches moving into the country ahead of hard weather in Europe cannot be associated with specific areas. A perusal of the following list displays a heavy bias towards areas definable as wetlands. This arises from the country's international importance as a wintering ground and passage halt for large numbers of waders and wildfowl, the subject of a separate paper in this issue (pages 72-80). Also featuring prominently in the listing are seabird sites, which, in view of their international importance, are also described in more detail separately (see pages 80-85). While it will be obvious that the following localities have much to offer the birdwatcher visiting Ireland in spring, autumn or winter, those coming in summer who are unattracted to seabird colonies may consider their interests neglected by the selection offered. The variety of species breeding in the country is substantially lower than in Britain and many as familiar there as woodpeckers, certain warblers, and some tits are very scarce or absent from Ireland as breeders and in many cases unrecorded or noted as vagrants at best. On the other hand, a few northern species, such as Red-throated Diver, Common Scoter and Red-necked Phalarope reach the southern limit of their breeding range here. While limited in variety, the country, particularly the western region, has something special to offer in

62 [Brit. Birds 73: 62-71, February 1980] Irish bird sites 63 good stocks of Corncrakes, Black Guillemots, Rock Doves and Choughs. Some visitors may find interest in the distinctive Irish subspecies of certain species. For those seeking further data on the localities, the most important sources of additional information are given in the following list. Few county avifaunas have been published, but those available (Hutchinson 1975, Merne 1974, Stapleton 1975, Whilde 1977) give a varying degree of atten­ tion to localities within their area. In addition, Sharrock (1976) mapped the breeding distribution of all nesting species, Hutchinson (1979) treated all

Fig. 1. Locations of 51 sites listed on pages 64-71 64 Irish bird sites wetland areas of any importance and Cramp et al. (1974) gave an account of the seabird populations. Finally, Some Irish Bird Haunts (1975), a booklet issued by the Forest and Wildlife Service, Dublin, lists 106 localities with brief details. 1 Copeland Islands, Down Group of three low islands, totalling 108 ha, at entrance to Belfast Lough. Bird observatory on Lighthouse Island, established 1959. McKee (1976). Observatory work mainly concerned with ringing. Small colony of Manx Shearwaters; gull and tern colonies; breeding Eiders. Day trips from Bangor and Donaghadee. 2 Strangford Lough, Down Almost land-locked inlet of sea, 25 km in length, with numerous islands and extensive areas of mudflats. About seven refuges and sanctuaries within area. Wildfowl and waders, particularly in autumn, with Brent Geese (up to 10,000) and Wigeons (20,000); wintering Whooper Swans (600) and Knots (30,000), Breeding gulls and terns. Best areas in northern section from Newtownards south to Ardmillan on A22 and to Greyabbey on A20. 3 Carlingford Lough, Down/Louth Fjord-type lough running southeast of Newry, with areas of mudflats in narrow channel to latter and around Greencastie at mouth. Wintering grebes, wildfowl and waders, particularly Scaups and Long-tailed Ducks. Roads run along shoreline on either side of lough. 4 Dundalk Bay, Louth Broad, shallow bay, about 20 km wide, with very extensive areas of exposed sand and mud at low tide. Main high tide roosts at South Marsh and Lurgan Green. Part sanctuary. Wintering and passage waders, notably Oystercatchers (10,000, with up to 20,000 in autumn) and Bar-tailed Godwits (7,000); few wildfowl. Access via by-roads offTl south of Dundalk. 5 Rogerstown Estuary, Dublin Broad, muddy estuary, 3 km long, with areas of sattmarsh and sand spit at mouth; divided by railway causeway. Sanctuary. Hutchinson (1975), Rochlbrd (1975). Wintering wildfowl and waders, particularly Brent Geese and Wigeons; passage waders. Lambay Island, 5 km off mouth, is principal east-coast auk and Cormorant colony; also holds wintering Barnacle and Greylag Geese. Access by by-roads offTl 5 km north of Swords; Lambay Island privately owned (see also page 81). 6 North Bull, Dublin Low island of saltmarsh and sand-dunes with probably highest concentration of wildfowl and waders of any Irish wetland. Large resident population, but also acts as high-tide roost for much of Dublin Bay. Sanctuary. Best-documented wetland in Ireland. Jeffrey (1977), Kennedy (1953). Very large number and variety of wintering wildfowl and waders, notably Brent Geese, Pintails, Knots, Bar-tailed Godwits and Grey Plovers; Avocets winter regularly; passage waders. Connected to Dublin-Howth coast road by causeway. 7 Wicklow Mountains, Wicklow (plate 10) Largest area of continuous high ground in Ireland, containing areas of open moorland, conifer forest and native oakwood. Several lakes, including artificial reservoir at Poulaphouca. Noonan(1975). Typical upland species include Ring Ouzel, Red Grouse and Hen Harrier; wooded glens hold most of country's few breeding Wood Warblers and, occasionally, Redstarts. Wintering Greylag Geese near power station at Poulaphouca. Numerous access roads and tracks. Irish bird sites 65

10. Glenmalure, VVicklow Mountains, Co. Wicklow, 1967 (DavidScott) 8 Wexford Harbour and Slobs, Wexford Broad, sandy estuary of , protected from sea by long sand spit terminating at Rosslare Point. Situated behind sea-walls on either side ofharbour are North and South Slobs, totalling about 2,000 ha of farmed land reclaimed in 19th century. Area as a whole contains very diverse habitats, including unstable sandy islands. Part of North Slob is a refuge, with warden and facilities for visitors. Merne (1974). Very large number and variety of wintering wildfowl and waders includes Greenland White-fronted Geese (5,200), Pintails (900), Bewick's Swans (700) and Black-tailed Godwits (1,200); passage waders include up to 100 Spotted Redshanks; breeding gulls and terns in harbour. North Slob Refuge and information centre signposted from Wexford on L29. 9 Lady's Island Lake, Wexford Shallow lagoon, separated from sea by shingle bank, with low island 1 km long connected to land by causeway. Merne (1974). Wintering ducks and swans; good variety of passage waders in autumn; breeding gulls and terns on shingle bank. Access south ofTagoat off T8. 10 Tacumshin Lake, Wexford (plate 11) Tidal lagoon behind shingle bank and dunes with variable extent of saltmarsh and mudflats depending on state of flooding; reedbeds at White Hole. Western end most productive. Merne (1974). Wintering wildfowl include Brent Geese and Scaups; waders in autumn; large Herring Gull breeding colony. White Hole attracts Bewick's Swans and Ruffs. Access via by-roads south of Tomhaggard off L29. 11 Saltee Islands, Wexford Two uninhabited islands of 86 and 40 ha off Kilmore Quay. Only large seabird colony in southeastern Ireland. Site of former bird observatory (1950-63). Sanctuary. Perry & Warburton (1977), Roche & Merne (1977), Ruttledge (1963). See also page 81. Breeding seabirds, especially Gannets, Cormorants, Shags, Kittiwakes and auks. Noted for large spring and autumn passage movements and vagrants. Access by boat from Kilmore Quay. 66 Irish bird sites

11. Aerial view ofTacumshin Lake, Co. Wexford, April 1973 (OscarJ. Merne)

12 Hook Head,Wexford Long, exposed promontory, with low rocky cliffs and lighthouse. Merne (1974). Best sea-watching point on southeast coast and most easterly regular breeding haunt of Choughs on south coast. Outstanding mainland point for migrants and vagrants. Road from Fethard to tip of head.

13 Tramore Bay, Waterford Large area of saltmarsh and mudflats behind sand dunes holding highest concentration of wildfowl in Waterford. Wintering wildfowl, particularly Brent Geese; notable for spring passage of Grey Plovers. Access by various roads from Tramore.

14 Coolfin Marshes, Waterford Callows and marshes beside near Portlaw. Sanctuary. About 200 Greylag Geese winter; also ducks and swans. Beside L26 at junction for Portlaw.

15 Dungarvan Bay, Waterford Broad, circular bay, bisected by sand spit inside which are areas of saltmarsh and mudflats and outside extensive sandflats with Zostera beds. Waders include godwits, Grey Plovers, Oystercatchers and Knots; most westerly Brent Goose haunt on south coast. Various roads from Dungarvan give access to shore.

16 Ballymacoda, Cork Estuary of Womanagh River, with saltmarsh and mudflats, surrounded by marshy fields; separated from Pilmore Strand by sand spit. Smiddy (1977). Large concentration of wildfowl and waders for size, including Golden Plovers (up to 13,000), Lapwings (8,000) and Black-tailed Godwits. Various by-roads give access to shore. Irish bird sites 67 17 Lismore Callows, Waterford Callows beside River Blackwater. Number of birds dependent on state of flooding, with few present when dry. Good numbers of Wigeons and Black-tailed Godwits; smaller numbers of swans and ducks. Beside T30 about 5 km west of Lismore. 18 Ballycotton, Cork Complex area consisting of large intertidal strand, lagoon with reedbeds behind shingle bank, and muddy pools. Gardens and cover near village produce migrants. Good variety of wintering wildfowl and waders in medium numbers; important for spring and autumn passage waders and vagrants. Main access road signposted 'strand' 1 km south of Shanagarry. 19 Cork Harbour, Cork Extensive estuary of and various small rivers, with large variety of habitats and numerous areas of ornithological interest. Best haunts are around Glanmire, Carrigaline, Rostellan, and channel behind Great Island. As a whole, contains large numbers of wintering wildfowl, waders and gulls, notably grebes, Shelducks and Black-tailed Godwits. Passage waders occur in good numbers at various points, particularly in the Carrigaline and Glanmire/Little Island areas. Most areas readily accessible. 20 Old Head of Kinsale, Cork Rugged headland, 5 km in lengtfi, with cliffs and stack. One of the best mainland sea-watch points; also productive during spring and autumn passerine migration. Largest Cork mainland seabird colony on western side, 1.5 km from tip, containing Guillemots, Razorbills and Kittiwakes. Bays attract wintering divers. Signposted from L42 southwest of Kinsale. 21 Clonakilty Bay, Cork Sandy estuary with twin inlets and several reed-fringed pools behind causeways. Wintering waders, particularly Black-tailed Godwits, and small number of ducks; passage waders in good numbers. Large colony of Grey Herons south of Clonakilty. Road from Clonakilty to Inchydoney runs along edge of area. 22 The Gearagh, Cork Artificially flooded woodland area with marshy scrubland at western end. Widely fluctuating water level; occasionally dry except for pools and courses of old streams. Varying winter populations of ducks, swans and plovers, with much movement to and from reservoir east of Macroom. T64 along northern edge; by-roads on southern side more productive at times. 23 Cape Clear Island, Cork (plate 14) Inhabited island of 630 ha with high clilfs and rocky shore, freshwater lake and three bogs; few trees. Most southwesterly land in British Isles, apart from the Fastnet Rock. Bird observatory established 1959. Sharrock (1973). Famous for large autumn seabird movements, particularly Great Shearwaters, Sooty Shearwaters and skuas. Lacks large-scale passerine movements, but many rare migrants and vagrants. Breeding Black Guillemots, Choughs, and small seabird colonies. Regular mail-boat service from Baltimore, and day-trips from Schull in summer. 24 Killarney, Kerry Three lakes with wooded islands surrounded by highest mountains in Ireland; extensive areas of native oak and mixed woodland and conifer plantations frequented by red Cervus eiaphus and sika deer C. nippon. Part National Park. Batten (1976). Ducks wintering on lakes include up to 2,000 Tufted Ducks and 900 Pochards. Good area for breeding woodland and mountain species. Adjoins Killarney town. 68 Irish bird sites 25 Dursey Island and Bull Rock, Cork Exposed, hilly, inhabited island off Beara Peninsula, with very restricted cover. Recent observations suggest similar passage species and sea-watching to Cape Clear Island. Precipi­ tous Bull Rock lies some 4 km to west. Evans & Lovegrove (1974). Dursey: spring and autumn migrants and vagrants; large-scale sea passages. Bull Rock; breeding seabirds include Gannet colony of 1,500 pairs and Storm Petrels. Access to Dursey by cable-car from mainland; accommodation difficult to obtain. Bull Rock extremely difficult of access and rarely visited. 26 The Skelligs, Kerry (plate 13) Three precipitous rocks about 12 km west of Bolus Head. Skellig Michael, or Great Skellig, 18 ha in area, rises to 215 m above sea level and, in addition to a lighthouse, has famous early monastic remains. Little Skellig is a sanctuary. Evans & Lovegrove (1974), Lavelle (1976). See also pages 82-83. Breeding seabirds on Skellig Michael include Manx Shearwaters, Storm Petrels and Puffins, while Little Skellig has Kittiwakes and Guillemots, in addition to Ireland's largest Gannet colony. Day-trips to Skellig Michael from Ballinskelligs and Portmagee; landing on Little Skellig extremely difficult and dangerous. 27 Puffin Island, Kerry Long, narrow, grassy, uninhabited island on northern side of St Finan's Bay. Evans & Lovegrove (1974). See also page 83. Large breeding population of Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrels; also about 7,000 pairs of Puffins. Nearest fishing village is Portmagee. 28 Blasket Islands, Kerry Group of exposed islands and rocks, famous for huge seabird colonies and literary associations, lying 5-10 km west of Slea Head. Evans & Lovegrove (1974), See also pages 83-84. Largest seabird colonies are on Inishtearaght, Inishvickillane and Inishnabro, most notably Manx Shearwaters, Storm Petrels, Razorbills and Puffins. Beginish holds most southerly wintering Barnacle Geese in Ireland. Access very difficult, except to Great Blasket, which has only small number of birds. 29 Castlemaine Harbour, Kerry Extensive estuary with very large areas of saltmarsh, mudflats and Zostera beds behind sand spits. Part sanctuary. Large size makes watching difficult. Large numbers of wintering wildfowl and waders include Brent Geese (4,000), Wigeons (7,000), Pintails (2,000) and Shovelers (900); several hundred Common Scoters winter off Inch on northern shore. L103 runs parallel to north shore, givi ng access at various points. 30 Lough Gill, Kerry Shallow lake with reedbeds behind sand dunes at Brandon Bay. Nearby Brandon Point is good sea-watch point. Wintering ducks and swans in good numbers, notably Teals, Shovelers and Gadwalls. Signposted from Castlegregory. 31 Tralee Bay, Kerry Bay with areas of saltmarsh, mudflats and Zostera beds. Main haunts are behind Derrymore Island and Bannow Harbour. Wintering waders and wildfowl, particularly Wigeons (4,500) and Brent Geese (3,200); several hundred Common Scoters in outer bay. T68 west from Tralee passes along south shore; Bannow Harbour on northern side of bay. 32 Akeragh Lough, Kerry (plate 12) Brackish lagoons behind sand dunes at Ballyheigue, subject to fluctuating water-level. Many waders move to Black Rock outside dunes when disturbed. Irish bird sites 69

12. Aerial view of Akeragh Lough and Ballyheige Bay, Co. Kerry, February 1975 (Oscar J. Meme)

Number of birds dependent on state of flooding; mainly notable for passage and vagrant waders, especially Nearctic species. Access by track running south from car park at Ballyheigue. 33 Shannon Estuary, Clare/Limerick/Kerry A vast area, stretching over 75 km from Limerick city to sea, with enormous areas of mudflats at low tide and large variety of other habitats including polderland, saltmarsh and islands. Best areas are Poulnasherry and Clonderlaw Bays and Fergus Estuary on northern side; Aughinish Island, Tarbert and Ballylongford Bays on south. Stapleton (1975). Very large numbers of waders and wildfowl, but widely scattered. Best single area is Fergus Estuary, with up to 16,000 Black-tailed Godwits in spring and up to 33,000 Dunlins in winter. Most areas reasonably accessible from roads around estuary; best time one hour either side of high tide. 34 (plate 9) Longest river in British Isles, flowing 346 km through several lakes to head of estuary at Limerick city. Winter flooding of land beside banks provides extensive habitat for wildfowl. Generally, most important areas between Portumna and Lanes borough including Rivers Suck and Brosna. Several sanctuaries. Wintering ducks and geese; also huge flocks of Golden Plovers and Lapwings. Junction of Little Brosna River with Shannon, south ofBanagher, is best single area, holding up to 14,000 Wigeons in spring and 2,000 Black-tailed Godwits, 2,000 Teals and 300 White-fronted Geese in winter. Access is generally difficult and necessitates much walking. 35 Westmeath Lakes, Westmeath Complex of shallow lakes, up to 1,400 ha in extent, on limestone. Of varying ornithological significance, the most productive being Loughs Derravaragh, Owel and Iron. Derravaragh: diving ducks, particularly Pochards in autumn (6,000), and Coots (3,000); small numbers of waders on spring and autumn passage. Owel: up to 2,000 Shovelers in early winter. Iron: wintering flock of 200 White-fronted Geese. Access by various roads and tracks. 70 Irish bird sites 36 Ballyallia Lake, Clare Shallow lake of about 35 ha on limestone, with very high concentration of wildfowl for its limited size. Sanctuary. Wintering wildfowl, notably VVigeons (3,000), Shovelers (500) and Gadwalls (180). Breed­ ing Great Crested Grebes. Left ofTT 11 about 3 km north of Ennis.

37 Mutton Island, Clare Low, exposed island of 74 ha lying 1.5 km offmainland west of Quilty. Third largest flock of wintering Barnacle Geese in Ireland. Some breeding seabirds. Liscannor Bay to north has wintering flock of Common Scoters. Access by boat from Tromro Point near Quilty.

38 Cliffs of Moher, Clare Sheer cliffs, reaching height of 230 m, facing Atlantic Ocean for 8 km north of Liscannor. Large seabird colonies include Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Guillemots and Puffins. Signposted from Liscannor.

39 Rahasane, Galway Largest extant turlough in Ireland, situated on Dunkellin River between Craughwell and Clarinbridge. When fully flooded, measures 3 km by 1 km. Wintering ducks, geese and swans; numbers fluctuate considerably depending on water- level. Small numbers of waders, but occasionally very large flocks of Golden Plovers and Lapwings. Access road off T211.5 km north of Craughwell. 40 Lough Corrib, Galway Large, irregularly shaped lake, 35 km in length, in two basins, with numerous islands and large area of marsh at southern end. Whilde (1977). Main ornithological significance is autumn gathering of up to 22,000 Pochards and large number ofCoots (11,600) mostly confined to southern end. Large population of breeding gulls. Numerous roads off T40 and T77 approach shore, but size makes watching difficult. 41 Lough Carra, Mayo Very shallow lake of 1,500 ha on limestone; surrounded by reed beds. Wintering wildfowl include high numbers of Mallards and Shovelers; large breeding population of Mallards. Breeding Common and Black-headed Gulls. T40 passes west of lake. 42 Clare Island, Mayo Island of exposed, treeless, undulating moorland, 1,400 ha in area, olf Clew Bay; rises to nearly 500 m, with high cliffs. Intensive studies in early 1900s resulted in the 68-part Clare Island Survey. Ussher (1912), Whilde (1977). See also page 84. Seabird colonies, particularly Razorbills, Guillemots and Kittiwakes. Breeding Corncrakes, Choughs and Corn Buntings. Access by boat from Roonah Quay, west of Louisborough. 43 Inishkea Islands, Mayo Two low-lying, exposed, uninhabited islands situated 4 km west of Mullet Peninsula. Sanctuary. Cabot (1965). Up to 60% of Irish winter population of Barnacle Geese (2,900). Small number of breeding seabirds. Access by boat from Fallmore.

44 Sligo Bay, Sligo Three estuaries discharge into Sligo Bay, which has extensive areas of mudflats holding relatively few birds. Part reserve. Irish bird sites 71

Barnacle Goose flock near Lissadell in Drumcliffe Bay; Cummeen Strand holds large Brent Goose flock in early winter. Inishmurray, lying 9 km north of bay, is most southerly Eider breeding site; wintering Barnacle Geese. Bay readily accessible by various roads from Sligo; Inishmurray by boat from Grange or Streedagh. 45 Lough Gara, Sligo/Roscommon Basically two lakes connected by narrow channel; an important archaeological site. Part sanctuary. YVhilde (1977). Good number of wintering ducks and swans; one of the largest flocks of White-fronted Geese outside Wexford. Breeding gulls, particularly Lesser Black-backed Gulls. Access off L133 7 km west of Boyle. 46 Lough Erne, Fermanagh Large lake consisting of upper and lower basins in flooded drumlin country, with highly indented shoreline and maze of wooded islands. Reserve at Castle Cauldwell. Ferguson (1971). Main Irish breeding site of Common Scoter; breeding gulls and terns. Small winter population of ducks, but good numbers of grebes and Whooper Swans. Situated north and south of Enniskillen. 47 Horn Head, Donegal Perhaps the finest headland in Ireland, with sheer cliffs rising to 200 m. Breeding seabirds include country's largest Razorbill colony; also Puffins and Guillemots. Off T72 6.5 km northwest of Dunfanaghy. 48 Lough Swilly, Donegal Glaciated sea lough, about 50 km in length, with extensive mudflats in southern portion and large reedbeds at Inch Lough. Best localities are at Inch and Blanket Nook. Part sanctuary. Large autumn arrivals of Whooper Swans (up to 1,500); wintering Greylag Geese and wildfowl, but relatively few waders. Access off T73/T74 south of Buncrana. 49 Lough Foyle, Donegal/Derry Broad, triangular sea lough, with narrow inlet to sea, containing extensive mudflats. Best areas between Muff and Roe estuary on southern and eastern sides. Large autumn concentrations of Wigeons and other waterfowl and waders. Access off A2 east of Derry. 50 Rathlin Island, Antrim Inhabited island, about 1,400 ha in extent, lying 4 km off Antrim coast, with high cliffs, offshore stacks and several lakes. Port (1959), Bond (1978). See also page 84. Large seabird colonies, notably Kittiwakes, Razorbills and Guillemots. Breeding Eiders and Choughs. Access by boat from Ballycastle. 51 Lough Neagh and Lough Beg Largest freshwater lake in British Isles, about 250 km2 in area, with large variety of surround­ ing habitat and several islands. Various reserves around perimeter. Lough Beg is 2 km to north on . D'Arcy (1978). Six species of ducks (Teal, Pintail, Shoveler, Tufted, Pochard and Goldeneye) and both wild swans have wintering populations of international importance. Breeding Great Crested Grebes, Mute Swans and ducks, including over 1,000 pairs of Tufted Ducks. Lough Beg particularly attractive to passage and vagrant waders. Access at numerous points around lake; west side least productive.

K. Preston, The Rennies, Boreenmanna Road, Cork, Ireland