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LE RECENSIONI DELLA SETTIMANA Fontefico Col Vetoraz

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LE RECENSIONI DELLA SETTIMANA Fontefico Col Vetoraz N. 89 DAL 16 AL 22 FEBBRAIO 2020 I VINI DI WINENEWS - APPUNTI DI DEGUSTAZIONE N. 89 - Dal 16 al 22 Febbraio 2020 - Tiratura: 29.130 enonauti, opinion leader e professionisti del vino - [email protected] www.winenews.it - Registrazione Tribunale di Siena n. 709 del 31 Marzo 2001 LE RECENSIONI DELLA SETTIMANA DAL 16 AL 22 FEBBRAIO 2020 Fontefico Col Vetoraz Palmento Costanzo Cantine Ceci Canalicchio di Sopra Possa Quintodecimo Opus One Corte Archi Leone de Castris Dianella La Collina Collavini Luigi Vico Zoom: Bottega, Liquore al Caffé Espresso - Treviso Ristorante: Plato Chic Superfood - Milano I VINI DI WINENEWS FONTEFICO COL VETORAZ PALMENTO COSTANZO CANTINE CECI Doc Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cocca di Docg Valdobbiadene Extra Brut Ø Doc Etna Rosso Prefillossera Spumante Extra Dry Otello Rosé 1813 casa SE Vendemmia: 2016 Vendemmia: 2019 Vendemmia: 2016 Vendemmia: 2018 Uvaggio: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Uvaggio: Glera Uvaggio: Nerello Mascalese e Cappuccio Uvaggio: Pinot Nero Bottiglie prodotte: 9.957 Bottiglie prodotte: 40.000 Bottiglie prodotte: 1.700 Bottiglie prodotte: 25.000 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 15,00 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 15,00 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 98,00 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 12,00 Azienda: Azienda Agricola Fontefico Azienda: Col Vetoraz Spumanti Azienda: Palmento Costanzo Azienda: Cantine Ceci Proprietà: Nicola, Emanuele e Valeria Altieri Proprietà: Francesco Miotto, Loris Dall’Ac- Proprietà: Mimmo Costanzo, Valeria Agosta Proprietà: famiglia Ceci Enologo: Nicola e Emanuele Altieri qua, Paolo De Bortoli Enologo: Nicola Centonze, Federico Enologo: Alessandro Ceci Enologo: Loris Dall’Acqua Bertucci Tutto inizia nel ‘96 quando Alessandro e Nel 1993 Francesco Miotto, Paolo De Bor- Pensare al futuro significa prima di tutto Era il 1938 quando Otello Ceci, oste della Miriam Altieri acquistano un podere dei toli e Loris Dall’Acqua hanno dato vita al custodire ciò che viene tramandato dal bassa parmense, si accorse che nella sua primi del ‘900 con 15 ettari vitati. Il posto è progetto Col Vetoraz, che non ha impie- passato. Così gli antichi saggi garantivano trattoria gli avventori apprezzavano molto incredibile: sul promontorio di Punta Pen- gato molto tempo per diventare una delle la sopravvivenza delle loro comunità. Mario il Lambrusco che produceva, acquistando na, sempre accarezzato dai venti, raccoglie realtà più rinomate del distretto viticolo Costanzo e Valeria Agosta ne hanno fatto il l’uva dai contadini della zona. Da allora, non tutta la luce che riverbera dal golfo di Va- di Valdobbiadene. Col Vetoraz è situata manifesto della loro missione: il recupero è stato mai mancato l’appuntamento con la sto, un’oasi di pace e benessere. I coniugi sull’omonima collina a fianco del “Mont” della memoria enoica etnea. Il traguardo vendemmia e la vinificazione, che è diven- pensano di vendere le uve e godersi il loro di Cartizze, a 400 metri di altitudine ed at- del faticoso percorso iniziato 10 anni fa tata la principale attività della famiglia Ceci. piccolo paradiso. Ma, e c’è sempre un ma in tualmente conta su 12 ettari di vigneto di dai due coniugi, tra quota 650 e 780 sul L’azienda resta anche oggi squisitamente ogni storia, i figli Nicola ed Emanuele, che proprietà, ma, soprattutto su una rete di versante Nord del vulcano nell’agro di Pas- familiare. Una realtà produttiva storica, stanno ancora studiando, pensano invece di affidabili viticoltori che conferiscono le loro sopisciaro, svetta maestoso sopra le vigne ma innovativa e dinamica, ed in grado, nel produrre vino. Primo tentativo nel ‘97, poi uve alla cantina con sede a Santo Stefano di di Contrada Santo Spirito, con la massiccia recente passato, di spostare l’attenzione dopo anni di sperimentazione, Nicola (il fra- Valdobbiadene. La produzione annua arriva struttura in pietra intrisa di gesti, gioie, fa- sui vini tipici della bassa parmense con tello lo raggiungerà a tutti gli effetti 4 anni così a 1.200.000 bottiglie, espressione di tiche e del senso stesso di un’epoca che un’impostazione senza dubbio originale, dopo) imbottiglia dal ‘06 in poi. Lavorano in 130 ettari di vigneto e le etichette aziendali fu. Il palmento è ritornato a rivestire la sua ma anche distinguendosi per una grande biologico certificato su terreni ricchi di sche- ottenute, evidentemente in prevalenza da originaria funzione, fulcro del ciclo produt- fedeltà alla terra d’origine e ai suoi vitigni letro e argillosi, con vigne di età fra i 40 e i 60 uve Prosecco (Glera), arrivano dalle migliori tivo, custode dell’atavico legame tra uomo tradizionali. Un lavoro che si è tradotto an- anni, a circa 120 metri di altezza. Dalla Vigna zone dell’areale. Lo stile dei vini ha subito, e natura. Mario e Valeria hanno saputo in- che in una diffusione capillare delle proprie bianca traggono il Pecorino e il Trebbiano soprattutto di recente, un giusto ridimen- tervenire tempestivamente per ricucire una etichette non solo entro i confini nazionali Abruzzese; dalla Pastino il Montepulciano sionamento della componente zuccherina, linea del tempo profondamente lacerata ma anche in svariati mercati internaziona- d’Abruzzo riserva; dalla Vigna del Pozzo il in favore di un sorso più dinamico e versa- dal progresso, che rischiava di spezzarsi per li. I vini a marchio Ceci hanno uno stile im- Montepulciano d’Abruzzo e il Cerasuolo d’A- tile, dall’impronta più moderna e centrata. Il sempre. Poco distante dal palmento resi- mediato ma non per questo banale e sono bruzzo e da quella de Le Coste l’Aglianico. Prosecco Extra Brut Ø è ottenuto a partire ste ancora tenace e produttiva una piccola capaci di rimettere in gioco un’idea di vino Le etichette, scherzose, colorate e accatti- dalle uve coltivate a “cappuccina modifica- parcella di Nerello Mascalese a piede fran- universale e tutta giocata sula piacevolez- vanti, cambiano ogni anno, a sottolineare ta”, forma di allevamento nota anche come co del 1910. E’ il cuore dell’azienda, che in za. È il caso del 2018 dell’Extra Dry Otello che ogni vendemmia è a sé. Tutti gli Altieri “Metodo Valdobbiadene”. Di colore giallo totale conta 14 ettari. Il Prefillossera ema- Rosé 1813, i cui profumi svariano dalla gi- sono spiritosi e accoglienti e ti fanno sentire paglierino e dal perlage persistente, questo na l’unicità del grande patrimonio genetico nestra alla pesca gialla, passando per pia- come a casa: fra vigneti e giardini, fanno ca- Prosecco ha uno sviluppo aromatico soprat- che esprime. Di grandissima profondità ed cevoli sfumature di salvia. Attacco in bocca polino piscina, ristorante e bed & breakfast. tutto floreale con riconoscimenti di rosa e eleganza, racconta una storia lunghissima, di notevole spessore e dolcezza di frutto, Il Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cocca di Casa acacia, a cui si uniscono cenni agrumati, porta dentro tutta la maturità della vite. I che prosegue in un contesto di sostanzia- (“è il vino più coccolato”) ‘16 è caratteriale mela e pesca. In bocca, il vino ha impatto tannini delicati e l’impronta unica del ter- le pienezza e rotondità. Uno spumante e intenso, succoso e con una beva golosa. rotondo e sviluppo continuo e saporito, roir rendono il sorso piacevolissimo, pie- lineare che fa della propria fragranza ed (Alessandra Piubello) non privo di fragranza e ritorni fruttati. no. Un vino di grande vivacità e intensità. immediatezza di beva il suo punto di forza. (Manuela Laiacona) I VINI DI WINENEWS - APPUNTI DI DEGUSTAZIONE DAL 16 AL 22 FEBBRAIO 2020 | 2 I VINI DI WINENEWS CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA POSSA QUINTODECIMO OPUS ONE Docg Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia Dop Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà Doc Irpinia Aglianico Terra d’Eclano Ava Napa Valley Opus One GUY V8+ REALI Vendemmia: 2015 Vendemmia: 2013 Vendemmia: 2016 Vendemmia: 2016 Uvaggio: Sangiovese Uvaggio: Bosco, Rossese Bianca Uvaggio: Aglianico Uvaggio: Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Bottiglie prodotte: 3.256 Bottiglie prodotte: 650 Bottiglie prodotte: 15.786 Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec Prezzo allo scaffale: € 100,00 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 65,00 Prezzo allo scaffale: € 40,00 Bottiglie prodotte: 262.000 Azienda: Canalicchio di Sopra Az. Agricola Azienda: Azienda Agricola Possa Azienda: Quintodecimo Prezzo allo scaffale: € 550,00 Proprietà: Francesco, Marco e Simonetta Proprietà: Samuele Heydi Bonanini Proprietà: Laura e Luigi Moio Azienda: Opus One Winery Ripaccioli Enologo: staff tecnico aziendale Enologo: Luigi Moio Proprietà: BPhR, Constellation Enologo: Paolo Vagaggini Enologo: Michael Shilavi Fondata da Primo Pacenti nel 1962, uno dei Che dire? Dinanzi a tali imprese - l’impegna- L’azienda di Luigi Moio, ordinario di eno- Voglia e ambizione erano - perdonate l’az- più caparbi vigneron di Montalcino (tra i fon- tivo vocabolo non appaia enfatico, dato che logia dell’Università Federico II di Napoli e zardo - un po’ da miracolo di Loreto: tra- datori del Consorzio nel 1967) convinto del- di vera impresa trattasi - rimane soltanto da punto di riferimento per molte aziende viti- sferire, non su ali d’angeli, ma braccia e le potenzialità di questa terra e dei suoi frut- mettersi sull’attenti: perché quanto fatto da vinicole della Campania, è una di quelle re- cervelli d’uomini decisi, una casa speciale. ti, Canalicchio di Sopra è poi stata condotta Samuele Heydi Bonanini in quel di Riomag- altà vitivinicole che non lascia nulla al caso. Uno Chateau bordolese e la sua noblesse dal genero Pier Luigi Ripaccioli (in azienda giore, fra quelle Cinque Terre meravigliose Un approccio che, evidentemente, continua nel new world californiano, allora - anni ‘70 - dal 1987) ed oggi vive grazie alle premure ma complicatissime sotto l’aspetto viticolo, a servire da modello per una Regione dal- agli albori. Duetto tra Robert, capostipite dei dei nipoti Simonetta, Marco e Francesco (in è davvero emblema di una passione e di un le grandi potenzialità, tuttavia ancora non Mondavi (poi sostituiti nella joint venture azienda dal 2001). La produzione media è attaccamento al territorio capaci di far im- espresse completamente.
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