Tel London: +44 208 961 6770 www.parisrentalconnections.com Email: [email protected]

14/02/2019

Canal View 35 Quai de Valmy Entrance Code: 57B96 1st floor on right Buzzer—Dennigan Téléphone: 09 51 74 92 89 Metro: République Exit 4 rue du fbg du temple Or exit 1

Canal View on Quai de Valmy is situated in the 10th arrondissement near Place de la République. It is ideally located to explore the varied neighbourhoods of . The Canal St Martin with its locks and footbridges, was built by order of Napoleon I to supply Paris with water. This is one of the oldest parts of Paris well known in black & white films and postcards of yesterday. After some years in the shadows the area has made a real comeback as one of Paris’ most up and coming areas. It has fast become a ‘bobo’ (bohemian-bourgeois) neighbourhood thanks to the trendy, alternative cafes, bars, restaurants and boutiques which line Canal Saint Martin. Made famous by the film ‘Le Fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulin’, it’s a wonderful spot during the summer, where one can laze by the canal with friends and watch the ‘très cool’ Parisians stroll by. It’s also closed off to traffic at the weekends - perfect for joggers and cyclists! The monument of a woman which stands at Place de la Republique was commissioned in the late 19th century as a symbol to the glory of the French Republique. Surrounding her are the virtues which are the backbone of French society: Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité - Liberty, Equality, and Brotherhood.

You are just a short walk to the , the Bastille and .

Other recommended sites in this area include: Chez Prune - a great bar/restaurant for ‘bobo’ spotting Jardin Villemin - a grassed park off Canal Saint Martin, great for sun bathing and picnicking Passage Brady - a passage to India, full of exotic restaurants, barbers and Indian material shops

Enjoy!

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Table of contents

Page 3. Top Tips

Page 4 . Amenities, phone, TV and sofa bed instructions

Page 5. High Speed Internet

Page 6. Appliances

Page 7. Sofa bed, Heating, recycling and metro

Page 8. La Poste, Local Food & Wine, Museums and Monuments

Pages 9-10. Maps of the area

Pages 11-22. Restaurant suggestions

Pages 23-24. Walking Tours

Pages 25-26. French Vocabulary

Page 27. Useful numbers

Page 28-29. Our other Properties

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Top Tips.…

➢ CHECK-OUT On the day you check-out be sure to turn everything off and close all windows securely. Make sure you have packed all your belongings. Once ready to vacate leave the keys together inside the apartment then shut the door firmly behind you making sure it is closed properly.

➢ NOISE ALERT! Sound carries in Parisian flats. Please be respectful and don’t play the TV or music loudly. Please don’t use the washing machine, dryer or dishwasher after 9 pm. Please be gentle with the front door to avoid slamming. Please don’t roll luggage at night or too early on the floor. Have your luggage ready in the hallway to avoid disturbing the neighbours in the morning.

➢ TAXI Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 (large car): 01 47 39 01 39 Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99

➢ QUESTIONS? PROBLEMS?

Paris Agent:+33 6 37 53 85 23 (Georgina) Email: [email protected]

Alternative number – send text first: Gail: +33 6 77 06 85 87

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❖ Amenities

❖ Linen and towels & international landline calls Special Notes: ❖ Cutlery, cookware and ❖ Cable TV with English dishes channels The building is very secure and ❖ Microwave ❖ DVD player without the code and your key you will not be able to enter the ❖ Electric Stove and Oven ❖ Hairdryer apartment. ❖ Dishwasher ❖ Iron and board Please feel free to use any food in ❖ Kettle, Toaster and ❖ English books and magazines the cupboards but please replace anything you finish. Thank you! Coffee Maker ❖ Wi-Fi high speed internet ❖ Fridge, freezer access Should anything break or be damaged in any way during your ❖ Washer ❖ 1x Queen size bed and 1x sofa stay please let us know. ❖ Shower & Bath bed ❖ Telephone with free local

Tips: NEVER leave your keys inside the lock or you will not be able to get the key into the lock on the outside to open the door again. Only a locksmith will be able to repair it.

❖ The Telephone and International Calls

The phone will allow you to call Incoming call from : North America, and most EU 09 51 74 92 89 Voicemail: Dial **1 for countries— From Europe: messages. 00 33 9 51 74 92 89 Messages will play automatically Landlines only—(see list) From North America: #1 to repeat messages Otherwise, for countries not listed, 011 33 9 51 74 92 89 #3 to erase messages please use a phone card. From Australia: 0011 33 9 51 74 92 89 To call the telephone in the To North America: apartment: 001 (area code)(number)

Tips: International phone cards may be purchased at most convenience stores, « tabacs » (where you buy cigarettes), at most grocery stores or at the post office.

❖ Television & Cable

Turn on the TV using the red It is possible to view How to use the DVD: power button. programmes that were Switch on the TV (Red Button) Turn on the cable remote originally in English but + Freebox. A screen appears ‘Free’ using the power button dubbed into French and then which looks like a play station. on the top right. back to English! Scroll right or left to find “Blu Use the Free remote to change After selecting the channel of Ray” with the Freebox remote channels and volume using the interest, press the green 'Menu' control. Below Blu Ray is a list + or— buttons. button on the Free remote and of options. If you see the Freebox main this will display an on-screen Click on “LIRE DVD” + OK. menu select Freebox TV and menu, which will show the The DVD will start playing. ok. available viewing languages. The Use the Freebox remote to eject The source button for the TV default setting is French. the DVD – press green button remote is on the top right. and select “Ejecter le disque. HDMI for cable TV. Bloomberg– 253

BBC News: 349

CNN– 351 Al Jazeera– 355 Skynews– 350 Catch up on a bit of CNBC– 354 world news or escape from it all... 4

❖ High Speed Internet Access

There is a Wi-Fi internet connection or you can use the yellow Ethernet cable at the back of the modem.

Network: Freebox AA640B Password: parvulus dubitabas#3 explebas (case sensitive and you must enter the spaces)

No wireless connection? No problems just use the Ethernet plug which needs to be plugged at the back of the wireless modem as well as in to your computer.

Problem Solving Mac OS X

Go into your System Preferences. Select Network—the window will open with 2 pull down menus. Select the Locations menu. You should have Automatic selected. Click Show. Select Built in Ethernet. In the dial up box there are 5 pull down menus; select the TCP/IP menu then select the Configure IP v4 menu. In the submenu select Using DHCP.

The boxes that contained your former IP address will “grey out”; click Apply Now and the current IP address will appear.

In both the case of the Mac and PC, the IP address for Noos should start with either, 81 or 212 or 195.

There is a laptop in the apt you may use. Turn the power on with the top right button. Login key 35qv Auto Connect to Freebox AA640B

Shut down with the power button

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❖ Appliances Working the Oven, cooktop, microwave and Nespresso machine

The kitchen is equipped The knob on the right and then the time on the with a Vitro-ceramic cooker, regulates the oven lower dial. separate oven and temperature from 0-Max. microwave. Magimix Espresso machine Note: 180°C is For the cooker: Turn the approximately equivalent to Fill water in plastic container dial of the 350°F. Insert capsule with large end appropriate ring towards you. Plug machine in, to regulate the Then turn the center knob push large or small cup to heat. CAUTION: which indicates the cooking brew. Empty capsule container The rings get hot time to the time desired. by sliding towards you the black very fast and stay hot for a Note: the oven will not work handle under magimix. while after turning off. unless you turn the cooking

timer on. To operate the oven turn Microwave: the knob on the far left to select the desired To use the microwave select programme. the Watt on the upper dial choose: Washer The cycles are also listed on 1.Cottons everyday 30° the soap dispenser drawer. 2. Synthetics every day 30° Certain programmes can be Put clothes in machine personalised for example the 3. Colours 30° being careful not to overfill water temp. If so Press the it. Pull out the top left hand 4. Delicates 30° (no spin) option button. drawer to put in your soap 5. Quick 30mn wash 30° To start the wash press the and fabric softener (The I 6. Colour Resistant Cotton March/Pause button on compartment in the drawer 40 - 60° right is for the pre-wash cycle, II compartment for the main 7. Synthetics colour If you need to temporarily wash cycle, the resistant 40- 60° stop the machine press the compartment is for fabric 8. Mix 40° same button. softener. 9. Eco cotton 40° When the programme We recommend using the 10. White cotton 60°-90° finishes be sure to wait until the lock signal is switched off “Push & Wash” cycle- This 11. Sports 30° is a 45mns cycle at 30 before trying to open the 12. Duvets 30° degrees (cool) and you can door as it is delicate and can mix items. It functions as 13. Woolens 40° break. soon as you press the blue 14. Anti odor 40° button for 2 seconds. Rinse & spin For other types of washes: Spin & Empty water Press lightly on the On/Off Empty water only button then use the big round programme dial to

Dishwasher Put small tablet in and slide cover closed. 50-Eco Choose cycle by selecting button on right : 35-Eco 70-Intense Push power button on left and close door to 55-60 Auto-Normal start

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Sofa bed To open the sofa bed: bed open towards you. Repeat the process Do not remove the large cushions on the sofa. gently to close the sofa-bed. Face the sofa and in the middle of the cushions on the back rest use the handle to pull the sofa-

❖ Heating

Oct-May above if very cold. suitable temperature 3 or 4. Living room/Dining room: Be sure to turn thermostat When leaving turn dial back The thermostat is on the back to ‘hors gel’ before to star and place the switch living room wall by the leaving in the moon position bedroom door.. Off is ‘hors gel’. Press the white button Bedroom: Bathroom until 2 green lights Turn on heating by on the Turn the top button on illuminate. Then go to radiator itself adjusting radiator to the right. When radiators to turn up dial. switch from moon to sun, leaving turn back down to 3&4 if cold. And 4 and then turn the dial to a low position

❖ Recycling

The small key allows bins, depending on what you milk or juice bottles, cleaning you to access the upper have to discard. product containers, and lower basement using the lift. The bins are All bins are green but the one • Small electrical appliances on the upper basement with the Yellow lid is for the including blenders, razors, irons (level –1) Once in the lift following items: or hairdryers. insert key next to —1 and • Paper including magazines, All other garbage or anything turn clockwise. The lift will newsprint or envelopes you are unsure about should go bring you to —1. You need • Cardboard boxes including in the bin with the green lid. the key to go up again. Go cereal boxes, detergent or out Garbage is picked up every day. to parking area. The bin packaging The garbage bins are located in door is marked ‘poubelle’ on • Metal cans including aerosol the courtyard “shed” (white your left. products, food tins, aluminum doors on ground floor) by staircase D • Plastic including water, soda, There are different garbage

❖ Metro Station (Subway)

The closest metro station is metro (metro map) Keep your tickets until you République Line 3,5,8,9 which comes in a have exited your destination To get to the metro go right out large or small size. station as you might be stopped of the building along Quai de Don’t forget that you can by a metro controller. Valmy till you reach rue du purchase a carnet de dix regular Fauberg du Temple turn right. price or reduced price if you have small children or a Paris Visit day pass. Be sure to ask for a plan du

Tips: Buy a “Paris Visit day pass” to make unlimited, unrestricted trips around Paris or “un carnet (de dix)” of 10 tickets which you can use on any journey within Paris on the metro, bus or RER. Each metro or bus trip costs one ticket. If you buy a book of 10 identical tickets (carnet de dix) you will make a saving of at least 20% compared to buying 10 tickets separately. You can purchase tickets from a metro station or use the kiosk by selecting your language with the rolling handle. Only some kiosks take bills. Please beware that metro tickets are magnetic. Do not place them with coins, cell phone or other electronics as they will de-magnetize. 7

❖ La Poste (The Post Office)

Instead of standing in There is a postal office on line to send your The normal postal 160 rue du Temple letters, you can use the postal office hours are from 8:00am- When you post letters or cards machines available in the post 7:00pm Monday through going outside of France you will office. Simply place your letter Friday and 8:00am-12:00pm on be sending them, « à on top of the scale and choose Saturdays. l’étranger » (which means from the on- screen options. Other important services at the abroad). You can change to the language post office include currency of your choice on the first exchange, Western Union, screen. photocopying, faxing and more. Tips: When dropping mail in the yellow mailboxes “autres departements/ Etranger” is for anything out of Paris or France

❖ Food, Wine and a Whole lot more

To shop as the Parisians do, head to the Marche Alibert can be purchased at try the indoor food market on the other side of the Quai convenience stores as well as of the "Marche St Martin" Valmy a street food market supermarkets. built in 1854 located at 31- only on Sundays from 7am 33 Rue du Chateau D’Eau to 3pm located along the For some wine advice, try Paris, 75010—About a Hopital St Louis. Les à Les Vins d’Alexandre 12 mn walk from the next to Franprix. Open 10 Quai de Valmy. Open or one stop shopping am to 10pm. Tues—Friday 9.30- F

1pm and 4-7.30pm + try Franprix located the Sunday from 9am to other side of the canal Picard is a gourmet frozen 1.30pm on corner on the right. foods shop directly on right Open 7:30 am to 9pm. when you exit the building. On a Sunday you can also In France wine and spirits

❖ Where are the Museums and Monuments?

Château de Versailles Musee Carnavalet RER C to Versailles 23 rue de Sevigne Closed on Monday Metro St Paul (line1) Closed on Monday Musée du Metro Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre (line 1 or 7) Giverny Closed Tuesday (located 76km outside Paris) Take the train from St Lazare to Vernon Centre Pompidou Metro Rambuteau (line11) Closed Tuesday

Musée d’Orsay Metro Invalides (line 8) Closed Monday

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Map of the Area 35 Quai de Valmy 750010, Paris

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Map of the Area 35 Quai de Valmy 750010, Paris

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RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS RECOMMENDED BY PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS

Preston Mohr’s Restaurant List

Preston Mohr, is an American born wine expert and wine educator, based in Paris, where he has made his home for over 12 years. After falling deeply in love with France’s food and wine culture while studying abroad, he now specializes in old-world wine with a special passion for the wines of the Champagne & Bordeaux regions.

He is the founder of Paris By The Glass (www.parisbytheglass.com), offering wine and gourmet tours and tastings in France’s most historical and prestigious vineyards.

Reservations are recommended at of the following restaurants.

Neva Cuisine 2, rue de Berne 75008 Phone : 01 45 22 18 91

Neva Cuisine is my number one go-to for updated and flawlessly executed French cuisine. The two young chefs here left everything behind at a famous Michelin starred restaurant to start their own place. The 3 course menu at 41€ is a steal in terms of quality and presentation. The interior is that of a classic brasserie, however it has been revisited with modern, très chic and sleek style. They also run the equally as delicious Restaurant Coretta (151, rue Cardinet 75017 Phone 01 42 26 55 55) if they are booked, try this.

La Fontaine de Mars 129 Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Phone: 01 47 05 46 44

You probably won’t be the only person speaking English here, but its touristy location doesn’t have an impact on the quality. This family owned and operated restaurant serves some of the most delicious and simple French fare such as steak-frites, duck breast, beef tartare, etc. in a classic and pristinely kept bistro setting. The service here is sincere and professional and was good enough for President Obama during one of his official trips.

Le Boudoir 25 rue du Colisée 75008 Phone: 01 43 59 25 29

Chef Arnaud Nicolas has won the prestigious MOF award (meilleur ouvrier de France) for his charcuterie which you can savor, along with other revisited French classics, in this casual and cosy restaurant not far from the Champs Elysées. Front of the house manager Stéphane will take great care of you and recommend some fabulous and not expensive wines to accompany your food. The must-try is the pâté en croute, a beautiful mosaic of homemade pork pâté encased in a rich pastry crust. Comfortable, friendly service and centrally located !

Café des Musées 49 Rue de Turenne 75003 Phone : 01 42 72 96 17

It can be hard to find a good casual meal in the Marais these days. But fortunately, we have the Café des Musées, tucked away on a quiet corner of what is an otherwise chaotic touristy area. They specialize in traditional French food at reasonable prices, all served up in a classic Paris café atmosphere. The 21 Euro 3-course lunch menu is a bargain!

Miroir 94 rue des Martyrs 75018 Phone : 01 46 06 50 73

Miroir is 's answer to fine dining. Located amongst the highest concentration of

11 otherwise terrible and touristy restaurants, Miroir is a shining star. Their food would be categorized as French classics revisited, without being full of foams, reductions or anything too overworked. Their wine selection is excellent and all bottles can be purchased for take-away at their wine shop, Cave du Miroir, across the street.

Le Coq Rico 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 Phone: 01 42 59 82 89

This restaurant specializes in deluxe poultry, such as the poulet de Bresse or the yellow-footed chicken from the Landes in the Southwest of France. The entire bird is presented to you and cooked on a rotisserie spit with your choice of sides (this takes a approx. 45 minutes, so order starters). It’s a very fun place for a group of 4 or more so you can order an entire chicken for the table. Their other dishes are inventive and good as well, and their daily lunch special is a bargain. They take reservations on their website, which is a rarity in France.

Le Bon Georges 45 rue St. Georges 75009 Phone: 01 48 78 40 30

Le Bon Georges is a classic French bistro par excellence. The young and totally bilingual Benoit, who is so enthusiastic about the quality of his ingredients, runs this charming place. The products de terroir are excellent and they serve the best beef I’ve ever had in France (they serve it as various cuts of steaks, tartare and hand-sliced carpaccio). The menu changes each week depending on what’s available in the market, but there are always several beef dishes, a few fish options and usually a poultry option. The wine list is lengthy and Benoit is happy to help select for you!

La Rotonde 105 Boulevard 75006 Phone: 01 43 26 48 26

This is my favorite of the classic Parisian brasseries. With it’s recent renovation, bringing the interior back to its original red velvet banqueted glory, this is the perfect rainy-day restaurant for their home-made French onion soup followed by a wonderful steak from the celebrity butcher Hugo Desnoyer. The sole meunièure and the turbot are also excellent and worth the price. The service here is always attentive and friendly and the food uncomplicated and succulent. If you’re lucky enough to linger in one of the “boxes” (booths), lose yourself in the scenery and the faint clinking of glasses. In other words, a perfect place for no-frills but great food! Nice terrace in summer.

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Open-Air Markets:

Marché Bastille – This is the largest market in Paris with over 150 stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, fish and clothing. Open Thursdays and Sundays from 8 am – 2 pm. 8 Boulevard de Richard Lenoir 75011 (metro Bastille or Bréguet-Sabin).

Marché Raspail – Thursdays & and all organic market on Sunday morning from 8 am – 2 pm on Boulevard Raspail Raspail between rue du Cherche Midi & rue de Rennes Paris 75006.

Marché d’Aligre – One of the most atmospheric and authentic indoor & outdoor markets in a typical, non-tourist area of Paris. Open everyday except Mondays from 8 am – 2 pm.

Cheese Affineurs:

Androuet –

One of Paris’s oldest and best cheese shops, established in 1909. Large selection of aged French cheeses. Several locations throughout Paris : http://androuet.com/fromage-paris-5- France-6-fromagerie.html

Marie Quartrehomme –

Another fantastic family-run cheese shop. The owner is a MOF (meuilleur ovrier de France – or best tradesperson of France). http://www.quatrehomme.fr/

Wine Bars:

See Preston’s recent article on the best wine bars in Paris: http://www.driftwoodjournals.com/top-6-wine-bars-in-paris-a-sommeliers-guide/

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Z&J’s Guide to Eating and Drinking in Paris

September 3, 2016 Martin | Boire et Manger: One of our top picks!

We know one of the first questions you will have coming off the airplane is “where are we going to eat?” The challenge of course won’t be finding a restaurant, it will be choosing! So Jaymes our knowledgeable blog writer, web designer and once our Paris agent and his wife Zel compiled this comprehensive list of their favourite eats and drinks for their many wedding guests who came to Paris. They have kindly shared it with us. You may find it biased towards their own area of Paris but as Jaymes always says it has the best food in town!

Paris is one of the defining culinary capitals of the world, if for no other reason than it’s at the geographic center of France and Europe’s diverse agricultural regions. As a result, Paris is supplied with daily fresh deliveries of produce, meats, seafood, dairy products and countless other comestibles. Whether it’s oysters from Bretagne, foie gras from the Aquitaine, Choucroute garnis from Alsace, Cassoulet from the Languedoc or simply champagne from Champagne, Paris doesn’t have a specific culinary tradition of its own per se, but is rather the center point where all of France’s culinary traditions converge and are put on display at the highest level.

Steak-Frites

Our top pick for Paris’ most signature dish would have to be the original Le Bistrot Paul Bert (18 rue Paul Bert 75011). Their Côte de Boeuf (Prime Rib), served for two people, with a side plate of hand cut, expertly fried potatoes is simply perfection. This is not for the faint of heart or stomach, so come hungry and be prepared! They have an extensive wine list as well, with many great natural wines form Bourgogne that pair nicely.

Our second choice is the timeless Relais de l’Entrecôte (15 , 8th Arr.). While Paul Bert boasts a variety of classic French dishes on it’s menu, Relais is purely steak frites. Thinly sliced and served with their mysterious green sauce, Relais is an experience of its own. You certainly won’t escape the tourists eating here, but you won’t be disappointed with the meal either. We highly recommend the Dâme Blanche for dessert. A head’s up though, the waitresses will be a little on the cold and gruff side…consider it part of the Parisian charm.

Soufflé

Our top pick for a genuine French soufflé is also Le Bistrot Paul Bert. Their gargantuan, not overly sweet vanilla soufflé ladeled with Grand Marnier (orange liqueur) is masterfully prepared and absolutely delicious. Save room for it!

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Crêpes

Our top pick for crêpes is a toss up between Chez Imogene (25 rue Jean-Pierre Rimbaud 11th Arr.) and Lulu La Nantaise (67 rue de Lancry, 10th Arr.). Both are fantastic examples of brettone-style crêperies offering genuine blé-noir (buckwheat) crêpes and galettes from Bretagne (Brittany). LINGO TIP: A crêpe with savory ingredients is actually a galette, which is folded in a square. A crêpe is sweet and generally served in the more familiar triangular shape.

Croque Monsieur/Madame

This traditional bar munchie has gone on to achieve some what of a mythic status in the culinary world. Perhaps it’s just the simplicity of toasted cheese and ham. However, finding one in Paris that’s not been reheated from a refrigerator can be a daunting task. Thanks to our friends Jakob and Julie, we were introduced to Café La Fusée (168 rue Saint Martin, 3rd Arr.) a few years ago. Aside from just being a great all around, hole-in-the wall wine bar near the Centre Pompidou Art Museum, they serve some of the best Croques in Paris. Stacked triple decker high and topped with chives, it should satisfy the craving. LINGO TIP: A Croque Monsieur and a Croque Madame are identical, except that a Croque Madame is served with a sunny-side egg on top.

Confit de Canard (Duck Confit)

Duck confit is another list topper for foodies heading to Paris. Consisting of a duck leg, fried and preserved in it’s rendered fat with aromatics, the real magic of this dish is when it’s reheated to a crisp in the oven and served with potatoes. Our top pick would have to be Bistrot des Oies (2 Rue Marie et Louise, 10th Arr.). Their home made and preserved duck confit is a perfect example of this dish. However, be sure to dine here early as they often run out!

Foie Gras

Perhaps France’s most infamous dish, foie gras comes in many different varieties, but almost uniformly always comes at a high price tag. Thankfully, Les Fabricants (61 rue Jean-Pierre Rimbaud, 11th Arr.) makes their own foie gras maison, served year-round. At 10 euros for a generous serving, this is an excellently prepared and very accessible entry point into the divine world of foie gras.

Mousse au Chocolat

As a fellow food enthusiast, Zela’s cousin Raffi would agree that the best address for the “vraie” chocolate mousse in Paris is Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd Arr.). Brought to you in a largepot that you could practically swim in, it’s a chocolate lover’s dream come true.

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Millefeuille

Le Bar Fleuri

Thin slices of delicate puff pastry mounted between rows of crème patissière, a good millefeuille should be surprisingly light and not overly sweet. Here are two spots where we know they serve it just right:

Café de La Mairie: 8 Place Saint Sulpice, 6th Arr. This old school café stretches it’s terrace out across the side walk, offering dramatic views of the impressive Saint Sulpice church. While the food here is often a little overpriced for what it is, it’s worth coming here for a coffee and a slice of their Millefeuille and to soak in the ambience of this classic Left Bank terrace.

Le Bar Fleuri: 1 rue du Plateau, 19th Arr. The opposite of the Café de la Mairie in terms of price and style, Le Bar Fleuri is well off the beaten path near Buttes-Chaumont, Paris’ impressive, hilly park. This hole-in-the-wall, old-school neighborhood brasserie is a rare gem from a past era. While most renowned for their 7 euro plate of roast chicken and fries, one of the absolute best cheap eats in the whole city, Le Bar Fleuri also makes one of the best Millefeuilles. No frills and under no fancy showcase, their old-school millefeuille sits out by the bar on large baking trays and is generously sliced to order. This is the real deal.

Pâtisserie (French Pastry)

L’escargot chocolate pistachio from Du Pain et Des Idées

While Italy can match France in terms of varieties of cheese and wine and Spain can rival in the cured meats department, there’s one culinary domain where France is untouchable: Bread and Pastry. Bakeries,

or boulangeries, have been at the centre of French life for centuries and are still found on nearly every corner of Paris today. While almost any boulangerie in Paris is liable to serve good bread and pastry, they’re not all created equally. Here are a few stand out addresses that offer the best examples:

Du Pain et Des Idées: 34 rue Yves Toudic, 10th Arr. Simply put, this is one of the most reputable bakeries in all of Paris. Just take one step inside and you’ll realize this is truly a unique place. Using only the highest quality ingredients and the most traditional of techniques, Du Pain is truly a step back in time. Aside from the finest examples of French pastry classics, like croissants, baguettes and pains au chocolat, their escargots (snail shipped spirals of delicate, flaky puff pastry) are the house specialty. We especially recommend the one with pistachios.

Utopie: 20 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th Arr. Utopie is a new startup bakery run by two young, innovative bakers who have brought many nuances and innovations to traditional French bread and pastry. Their croissants are simply perfect and they make our favorite chausson aux pommes. But our favorite is the tarte vanille, a delicate tart shell filled with decadent vanilla cream made with very real and very potent vanilla.

Ladurée Bonaparte: 21 , 6th Arr. Ladurée is a classic institution in Paris. Originally opening it’s doors as a humble bakery, Ladurée 16 transformed itself into one of the first high-end pastry boutiques in Paris and today is considered the archetype. The tea room at their original location on the Champs-Elysées also became a central meeting point for affluent women and the feminist movement in France at the turn of the 19th century. Their success led to the opening of several other boutiques throughout the city, of which are personal favorite is the one at 21 rue Bonaparte in the heart of St. Germain-dès-Prés. This quieter, more laid back location is unique because of it’s luxurious oriental tea room. The voluminous space is naturally lit from the glass ceiling above and is adorned with elegant tapestries and murals. It’s the perfect location to relax for an afternoon tea and macaron.

Pierre Hermé: Many Locations The current reigning king of innovation in the world of Macarons, Pierre Hermé has many locations throughout the Paris. A quick google maps search can find the boutique closest to your accommodations. Offering many wild and adventurous flavor combinations, this is our top pick to try France’s most luxurious pastry. The friendly, professional staff at each location often speak English and will gladly explain the different varieties and make flavor pairing suggestions for you.

OUR TOP WINE BARS

Just like pastry and bread, it’s hard to have a ‘bad’ glass of wine per se in Paris. However, most restaurants and cafés don’t stray too far form the beaten paths of wines that are nowadays quite prominent in the states. So here are a few address where you can truly discover for yourself new and trending wines in France that haven’t quite yet landed stateside:

La Barrette Rouge

La Barrette Rouge: 10 rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th Arr. Dangerously located just downstairs from our apartment, this relatively unpublicized wine cave is everything we love about current wine culture in Paris. It’s laid back with no frills and no pretensions. Just a few friendly faces with one common goal in life, drinking good, affordable wine. They have a very eclectic selection of natural wines and non-AOC, off-the-wall varieties (rosé pétillant?). They also serve wonderfully fresh and delicious small plates. We highly recommend whatever bottle they have open behind the bar on any given night and their burrata (the real deal) with antipasti plate.

Martin | Boire et Manger: 24 Boulevard du Temple, 11th Arr.

If La Barrette Rouge is everything we love about contemporary wine culture in France, then Martin is everything we love about the whole contemporary French culinary pantheon. Adapting fresh and innovative French, néobistrot cuisine to the affordable and socially casual format of Spanish tapas, Martin is a perfect place to gather with friends and share good food and wine. Their menu of small plates changes daily, making it easy to explore many different types of dishes on any given evening. Their list of natural wines is exquisite and equally accessible. It’s also one of the few places in Paris where you can be assured of being served an ice-cold beer that is artisinally crafted and is 4 euros a pint all night long.

Verjus: 47 rue de Montpellier, 1st Arr. Verjus is both a restaurant and a wine bar, opened by an American couple who rose to culinary prominence in Paris back when they ran a private supper club in their apartment. While the restaurant will require reservations, the wine bar downstairs is pretty laid-back and offers a fantastic selection of regional wines and exquisite champagnes. Not to mention, it’s directly across the street from the Palais Royal, meaning after a glass or three you can go for a magical stroll beneath the stone arcades.

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OUR TOP COCKTAIL BARS

Candelaria

Candelaria: 52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd Arr. We’re quite sure that everyone who has ever come to visit us in Paris has probably come with us at some point to Candelaria. Regularly reputed as one of the best cocktail bars in the world, Candelaria has become a Paris standard. At first glance a no frills,

California-style taco bar in the front, step through the white door that would presumably lead to the kitchen pantry and step into a dimly lit speakeasy, serving up innovative, delicious and deceptively potent elixirs. We recommend also having some tacos from the restaurant up front, especially if their margarita machine is churning out frozen, tamarind-infused margaritas.

Le Mary Celeste: 1 Rue Commines, 3rd Arr. Run by the same team behind Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste serves an equally impressive selection of cocktails, as well as exquisitely prepared small plates to accompany them. A local favorite and list topper for visitors during fashion week, be sure to get here early to get a table.

Pas de Loup: 108 Rue Amelot, 11th Arr. Developed by former members of the team behind Candelaria, Pas de Loup also has an amazing cocktail selection, but with a greater emphasis on food and wine as well. Whether stopping by for an apéritif and a small plate for happy hour, or planning to stay through dinner and cocktails, you can’t really go wrong here.

Harry’s New York Bar: 5 rue Daunou, 2nd Arr. While the aforementioned bars are at the forefront of contemporary cocktails in Paris, Harry’s may well be the birthplace of the movement. Passing through the swinging saloon doors, Harry’s New York Bar is half museum, half time-machine. To give you an idea, such immortal drink recipes as the Bloody Mary, French 75 and the Side Car were born here. This old haunt has been frequented by such iconoclasts as Ernest Hemingway, Coco Chanel, Humphrey Bogart, George Gershwin and even fictionally by James Bond in Ian Flemming’s 1960 novel, From A View to a Kill.

CRAFT BEER IN PARIS

Hoppy Corner

For all of the things Paris is traditionally renowned for, beer has not been one of them. However, in the last 5 years or so craft beer has exploded in France and like most other areas of the culinary world, Paris has become center stage for some of the most exciting breweries popping up all over Europe. Here are some the best addresses for craft beers in Pairs:

Hoppy Corner: 34 Rue des Petits Carreaux, 2nd Arr. Hands down, our favorite beer bar of the moment. The bar itself is quite sophisticated in appearance, but the guys behind the bar are super laid-back and eager to help you pick from 1 of 20 craft beers on tap at any moment. Ranging form light to dark, hoppy to malty, there’s something for everyone, along with a regularly changing menu of glorified bar munchies to eat alongside. They also serve toasted spent grains from the brewing process as a free munchie, which is surprisingly addicting. 18

La Fine Mousse: 4 bis Avenue Jean Aicard, 11th Arr. One of the first craft beer bars that started it all, La Fine Mousse also has 20 craft beers on draft at any moment and serve exquisite cheese and charcuterie plates to accompany them. Their big leather chairs and rustic stone interior make this an easy bar to hang out in for a whole evening!

Les Trois 8: 11 Rue Victor Létale, 2oth Arr. Same format as the two bars mentioned above, Les Trois 8 is slightly smaller and cozier with an ever impressive beer selection.

Deck and Donahue: 71 Rue de la Fraternité, 93100 Montreuil Perhaps Paris’ best local craft brewery, take a trip out to the Montreal suburb of Paris and say hello to our friend Mike Donahue and sample some of their latest brews right at the source! They have an open house most weekends from 11am to 3pm.

WORLD CUISINE IN PARIS

Italy in Paris

Epicerie Musicale

“Only Paris is worthy of Rome; only Rome is worthy of Paris” reads the sister city pact between two of the world’s greatest cities. In the culinary domain, you could say the same thing overall about France and Italy. Due to France’s next-door proximity to Italy, there are many Italian epiceries, or food shops, that get weekly, if not daily deliveries of fresh products straight from their home country. It’s for this reason that Paris is probably the best place outside of Italy to have ‘real’ Italian food. Here’s our go-to spots:

Epicerie Musicale: 55 Bis Quai de Valmy, 10th Arr. One of our absolute favorite spots in Paris period. Through friends we’ve gotten to know the owners over the past few years and this has quickly become our go-to place to meet up with friends. Superbly decorated with mid-century, modern Italian furniture and appointments, the ambience is completed with soul and blues music coming straight off vinyl from the turntable next to the kitchen counter. This is the place to have a Spritz, the internationally renowned cocktail from Venezia, made authentically with your choice of bitter: Aperol, Cynar or Campari, or in the honor of our good friend Francesco Fioretto, a blend of Aperol and Cynar, known appropriately as a Fioretto. Pair your spritz with their large assiette (plate of antipasti, exquisite aged Italian cheeses, fresh, authentic burrata and a very refined selection of Italian charcuterie).

Mmmmozza: 57 Rue de Bretagne This small Italian sandwich shop is all about one thing: Mozzarella and all of its glorious incarnations. This is by far our favorite sandwich shop. On your choice of focaccia, ciabatta or baguette, you get a whole ball of fresh burrata with your choice of such ingredients as sun-dried tomatoes, roasted eggplants, mortadella, jambon di parma, or capicola. Perfectly situated across from the beautiful park and garden, the Square du Temple, grab your sandwich and take a seat on the grass!

Pozzetto: 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile What started as a gelato shop has expanded into a full-fledged Italian epicerie. One of our favorite spots deep in the Marais, the guys that run Pozzetto are super nice and welcoming. Our recommendation would be to share their mixed assortment of 24 month-aged parmesan and fine Italian charcuterie with some ice- cold, red label Peroni beers. Save room for a scoop of their artisanal gelato afterwards! 19

Lisbon in Paris

Don Antonià

If there’s one city we love as much as Paris, it’s Lisbon. It’s the best of California and Europe combined: The Climate of LA, the hills overlooking the bay and the distinctive bridge of San Francisco, all combined the timeless architecture of a European city. Given these qualities, Lisbon has become a popular destination for French people on vacation, leading to a rise in popularity of Portuguese cuisine and culture in France. As a result, many Portuguese chefs and restaurant owners have opened up some great places in Paris:

Comme À Lisbonne: 37 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th Arr. Originally just a 2 meter wide coffee shop nestled between other shops on a small street in the Marais, Comme à Lisbon has since expanded next door into their small restaurant, Tasca. This is one of the best places to try the Pasteis di Nata pastry, a traditional recipe originating form the Portuguese monks in the city of Belèm outside of Lisbon, consisting of a smooth custard inside a shell of puff pastry. Subtle and not overly sweet, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a portugese coffee or hot chocolate!

Don Antonia: Rue de la Grange Aux Belles, 10th Arr. Recently opened along the Canal Saint Martin, Don Antonia is a beautiful little bakery that serves many different varieties of the famed Pasteis, plus a whole selection of traditional Portuguese breads, pastries and small snacks, such as black bean and tuna salad and fried cod fritters. The charming, pastel-colored mid-century décor makes for a delightful, retro coffee shop vibe and a great place to head to on a quiet weekend morning in Paris.

A Taste of the Middle East

Urfa Durum Paris’s large community of Mediterranean cultures from the Middle East provide the city with a smorgasbord of diverse cuisine. While there are no shortage of greasy kebab shops that should be avoided, we can recommend some authentic places that just might be one of the culinary highlights of your trip!

Genç Urfa: 11 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. This Kurdish joint is our top pick for lahmajun, the traditional middle eastern flat-bread with minced meat, baked to a crisp and served with fresh vegetables and herbs. One of the best cheap eats in Paris and one that never disappoints. The little tables out front are fun to sit at and take in the view of the overlooking stone Arch, l’Arche de Saint-Denis.

Urfa Durum: 58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. Just up the street from Genç Urfa, is another one of our favorite Kurdish sandwich shops, whose lamb kebab sandwich, cooked traditionally over open coals, is one the best kebabs in all of Paris.

L’As du Falaffel: 34 , 4th Arr. A trip to Paris wouldn’t be complete without one of the Marais’ most famous falafel sandwiches. In the heart of the Jewish quarter near metro Saint-Paul, L’As du Falafel rather

undisputedly has the best falafel in Paris. However, be prepared to wait in line on the weekend, as tourists cue up around the corner!

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Le Petit Phénicien– 101 Rue Oberkampf, 11th Arr. Le Petit Phénicien is our go-to Lebanese spot. Everything from their chiche taouk (chargrilled chicken) sandwich to their tabouleh, moutabol and labneh are spot on. They’re open late too, so if you’re out for the night along rue Oberkampf, bypass the greasy kebab and crêpe shops and head straight here!

Bonjour Vietnam Bo Bun at Le Cambodge

Saigon Sandwich– 8 Rue de la Présentation, 11th Arr. A bit of a trek into Paris’ more colorful, but trending Belleville quarter, Saigon Sandwich is one of the most authentic Banh Mi joints in the city and one of the best deals period. The charming Vietnamese man and his family who run the place even bake their own baguettes Vietnamese style. Their house sandwich, complete marinated pork, chicken or beef, with cilantro and authentic Vietnamese red chilis are less than 4 euros and well worth the trek.

Le Cambodge – 10 Avenue Richerand, 10th Arr. This staple near the Canal St. Martin is kind of the opposite of Saigon Sandwich. The deco and the location clearly appeal to the trendy demographic of the area in place of the authenticity that’s a little rough around the edges in Belleville. But, their Bo Bûn is absolutely delicious and one of the best of examples of the dish we’ve ever had. Do come early though, because if there’s one thing Parisians consume as much as wine and cigarettes, it’s bo bûn and this place get’s bumping later on into the evening.

Little Japan

Okonomiyaki at Happy Teï

The Japanese quarter of Paris is an authentic dining experience not to be missed. Head to rue Saint-Anne near the Opéra Garnier, and you’ll have countless Japanese restaurants to choose from. Here are our favorites:Hokkaido: 14 Rue Chabanais Hot, fresh and fulfilling! This Japanese rice and noodle house serves some of the most authentic and hot (emphasis on both temperature and spice) Japanese food in Paris. This can be quite a popular place on weekends and at lunch time, so plan accordingly and come very, very hungry.

Happy Teï: 64 Rue Sainte-Anne THE PLACE to have okonomiyaki in Paris. The rather indescribable cabbage pancake with numerous toppings, ranging from octopus to shaved bacon, is an experience in its own. The restaurant itself has a very charming and cozy upstairs dining area as well. Well worth the visit for the adventurous foodie!

Dosanko Lamen– 40 Rue Sainte-Anne This is our go-to Ramen and Gyoza joint. The massive pot of boiling stock positioned right next to the window should give you an idea of the authenticity of this place. For spice lovers, we recommend trying the Kim-Chi-based ramen!

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Please leave your Restaurant Suggestions:

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❖ The Marais Walking Tour (hip and cool)

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❖ Canal St Martin walking tour

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❖ Useful French Vocabulary

Greetings

Hello/Good morning Bonjour. Good evening Bonsoir. Good night Bonne nuit. Goodbye Au revoir. Yes Oui No Non. Maybe Peut-être Please S’il vous plaît Thank you Merci You’re welcome Je vous en prie Excuse me Excusez-moi I’m sorry Pardon How are you? Comment allez-vous? (formal) Comment vas-tu?/Comment ça va? (informal) Signs Entrance Entrée Exit Sortie Open Ouvert Closed Fermé Browsers welcome Entrée libre Free admission Entrée libre Full/no vacancies Complet Information Reseignements Cash Register Caisse Police station Commissariat de police Men Hommes Women Femmes

Getting Around What times does the ...leave/arrive? A quelle heure part/arrive…? Bus (city) l’autobus/le bus Bus (intercity) l’autocar/ le car Train le train Where is (the)…? Où est…? Bus stop L’arrêt d’autobus/ l’arrêt de bus Metro station La station de métro Train station la gare Ticket office le guichet I’d like a ...ticket Je voudrais un billet… One way aller-simple Return Trip aller-retour 1st class première classe 2nd class deuxième classe

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❖ Useful French Vocabulary

Getting Around (continued)

The train is… Le train est... Delayed en retard On time à l’heure Early en avance cancelled annulé

Around Town

I’m looking for… Je cherche… A bank/exchange office une banque/un bureau de change

City center centre ville Post office le bureau de poste/ la poste A public phone une cabine téléphonique Market le marché

I would like to change je voudrais changer some money/ de l’argent Travelers cheques chèques de voyages

Directions

How do I get to…? Comment je vais à/au…? To the metro station à la station de métro To Sacred Heart au Sacré Coeur Can you show me…? Pouvez vous me montrer …? on the map sur le plan Go straight Continuez tout droit Turn left Tournez à gauche Turn right Tournez à droite

Food

breakfast le petit déjeuner lunch le déjeuner dinner le dîner

A starter/appetiser une entrée Main course le plat principal Dessert un dessert

Set menu prix fixe/ un menu The menu le menu/la carte

Check please! L’addition s’il vous plait! Do you accept credit Acceptez vous les cartes Cards de crédits Tip un pourboire 26

❖ Useful numbers

PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS

Paris Agent: 06 37 53 85 23

London Office: +44 208 961 6770

Commissariat (Police): dial 17

Pompiers (Fire Department): dial 18

SAMU (Emergency Medical Assistance): dial 15

Emergency: 112

SOS Anti-poison (anti poison hotline): 01 40 05 48 48 SOS Dentist: 01 43 36 36 00 SOS Medecin (emergency doctor’s hotline): 01 47 07 77 77 SOS Pediatre (emergency children doctor): 01 40 03 22 73

ENGLISH SPEAKING PRIVATE HOSPITAL

American Hospital: 01 46 41 25 25 63, Bd Victor Hugo 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine

TRAVEL

Info SNCF (Train service info): 08 92 35 35 35

Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99 Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 Monospace : 01 47 39 01 39

Chauffeur Services : Sébastien Bazin 24/7 Cell phone: +33 6 60 43 70 39 . Email: [email protected]. Website: http://chauffeursdemaitre.com/?lang=en_US

For home service deliveries, concierge services and orientation tours, Karina at Travel Light Paris offers paniers of carefully chosen delicious French food delivered to you on arrival. She also offers orientation tours of your neighbourhood, visits to local markets, personalized itinerary planning and insider tips, plus booking of tickets and activities to help you make the most of your stay in Paris! www.travellightparis.com Guided Tours: Paris Off the Beaten Track. Marie-Theres Berger – Official guide. Private walking tour is for a delightful introduction to the city’s history and neighborhoods. The tours can be arranged at your convenience. http://promenadesaparis.blogspot.co.uk/

EMBASSIES:

American Embassy. 2, rue St-Florentin, 1er. 01 43 12 23 47 Australian Embassy. 4, rue Jean Rey, 15e. 01 40 59 33 00 British Embassy: 01 44 51 31 00 35, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 8e. Canadian Embassy. 35, avenue Montaigne, 8e. 01 44 43 29 00. Irish Embassy. 12, , 16e. 01 44 17 67 00 New Zealand Embassy 01 45 01 43 43 7ter, rue Léonard da Vinci, 16e.

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