historical walking tours

COMMUNITY ’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

Front Cover Image: Chinese New Year celebrations, 2011 (Photograph: Events) diverse

Its first buildings were factories, workshops and his walk will take you from housing for some of the city’s poorest citizens. , south into Later it became a warehousing and market precinct. what was once the industrial Today it contains Sydney’s Spanish Quarter, its Chinatown, backyard of Sydney. and what is arguably the most significant 20th century Aboriginal site in the City. What the area lacks in grand buildings, it makes up for in its colourful social ’s ethnically diverse population. Please allow 1–2 hours for this tour. Start at Sydney Town Hall (1) and nearby St Andrews Cathedral (2). Sydney’s history is all around us. Our walking tours will lead you on a journey of discovery from early Aboriginal life through to contemporary Sydney.

Sydney’s Haymarket area, c1920s (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives) Clover Moore MP Lord Mayor of Sydney

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 01. Dawes Point Walsh Bay Tar–ra

Bennelong Point Dubbagullee TOWNS PL

HICKSON RD

LOWER FORT ST HICKSON RD HICKSON WINDMILL ST Sydney Cove Warrane ARGYLE ST

Observatory Hill

CUMBERLAND ST

ALFRED ST

KENT ST KENT Farm Cove

HARRINGTON ST REIBY PL Wahganmuggalee HICKSON RD HICKSON

GEORGE ST

YOUNG ST

LOFTUS ST PHILLIP ST

PITT ST Royal Tumbalong GROSVENOR ST DALLEY ST BRIDGE ST Botanic Gardens

PIRRAMA RD

BENT ST Johnstons Bay BOND ST SPRING ST Woolloomooloo Bay MARGARET ST CURTIN PL DARLING ISLAND RD PHILLIP LANE O’CONNELL ST MACQUARIE ST BLIGH ST Wynyard HUNTER ST PIRRAMA RD

CARRINGTON ST

WYLDE ST

HARVEY JohnST St Square Star ST NEOT AVE BOWMAN ST MARTIN PL COWPER WHARF RDWY City BARRACK ST

ART GALLERY RD

SUSSEX ST SUSSEX MCDONALD LN

JOHN ST ST KENT CLARENCE ST CLARENCE

GEORGE ST

PITT ST TE AS R MOUNT ST CHALLIS AVE

M D KING ST Elizabeth Bay

Y R Pyrmont R I JONES ST

R V E Bay DISTRIBUTOR WESTERN ROCKWALL LN A ST YORK The Domain U Q M ROCKWALL CRES 4 B I W HARRIS ST L E EDWARD ST UNION ST L S MILLER ST Y TE A R R N O

D

D Sydney I N

A T

I Harbourside ONSLOW PL S V H MANNING ST S MACLEAY ST E

T BOURKE ST N

Fish Market A

R L U

E C

IB Darling O St James A

U MARKET ST ST W T Park O PYRMONT ST City 20 Rozelle Bay R Cockle A R V O Beare Park F Centre E R BROUGHAM STREET A Bay MCELHONE STREET N E GREENKNOWE AVE D DOWLING STREET HUGHES ST U E E W PALMER ST GLEBE POINT RD A Y

TUSCULUM ST ELIZABETH BAY ROAD

MURRAY ST CROWN ST ORWELL ST Galleries Hyde Park CATHEDRAL ST FORBES ST Victoria Convention DRUITT ST Rushcutters Bay PARK ST COLLEGE ST RD 01 RILEY ST

EARL ST SUSSEX ST SUSSEX GRIFFIN PL Blackwattle Bay ALLEN ST

EGLINTON RD WILLIAM ST

PITT ST

ALEXANDRA ST KENT Jubilee COOK ST Town Hall Wentworth 02 Park ALLEN ST Park BATHURST ST WARD AVE ROSLYN GARDENS WILLIAM ST AVE RD DARLINGHURSTKings Cross RD 04 WILMOT ST ROSLYN ST STANLEY ST YURONG ST TAYLOR ST 03 CENTRAL ST FARRELL AVE FORSYTH ST ALBION PL VICTORIA RD BURTON ST FIG ST FRANCIS ST ELIZABETH ST KINGS CROSS RD Darling LIVERPOOL ST

05 CASTLEREAGH ST 19 MAXWELL ROAD WATTLE ST Harbour RILEY ST CRAIGEND ST BELLEVUE ST CLAPTON PL NEW SOUTH HEAD RD BRIDGE RD WENTWORTH PARK RD MANSFIELD ST DARGHAN ST Museum SEALE ST BOURKE ST 07 FERRY RD BAYVIEW ST HARBOUR ST World 18 DARLING ST QUARRY ST Exhibition LOMBARD ST Square VICTORIA ST ARCADIA RD 06 OXFORD ST NIMROD ST BELL ST GLEBE POINT RD JONES ST SURREY STREET PIER ST IER 08 LE P ST LIVERPOOL ST WOMERAH AVENUE LITT GOULBURN ST

RILEY ST 17 POPLAR TOXTETH RD COLBOURNE AVE NITHSDALE ST LYNDHURST ST MCLACHLAN AVE PALMER ST BARCOM AVE GOTTENHAM ST Paddy’s ST NIELD AVE HARRIS ST HACKETT ST CROWN ST BULWARA RD Markets WAINE ST

TALFOURD ST WENTWORTH ST BURTON ST SUSSEX ST SUSSEX BOYCE ST ST DIXON WILLIAM HENRY ST MARLBOROUGH GEORGE ST ST JOHNS RD WIGRAM RD HAY ST CAMPBELL ST GOULBURN ST DARLING DR PHILLIP ST 09 16 WENTWORTH AVE BOUNDARY ST Capitol 13 HAY ST FORBES ST MINOGUEHarold CRES Park 14 GLENMORE RD BROUGHTON ST Square 15 GLENMORE RD HEREFORD ST CAMPBELL ST Taylor VICTORIA ST

MACARTHUR ST ST QUAY 12 MACDONALS ST 10 Square FOSTER ST 11 BARLOWPARKER ST ST

COMMONWEALTHST

GLEBE ST ST SMITH JAROCIN AVE DARLINGHURST RD THOMAS ST RESERVOIR ST

MARY ANN ST BROWN ST ULTIMO RD ST OCEAN COWPER ST JONES ST TAYLOR ST MITCHELLCAMPBELL ST ST VALENTINE ST EDDY AVE ST JOHNS RD BRIDGE RD WESTMORELAND ST KEY LEGEND DERWENT ST ANN ST GURNER ST CASCADE ST MT VERNON ST ROSS ST LODGE ST GLEBE POINT RD Train Central

BAY ST BAY PITT ST Light Rail ELIZABETH ST GLENMORE RD

FOREST ST THOMAS ST WATTLE ST

RILEY ST

FLINDERS ST FLINDERS Monorail ST CHISHOLM MARY ST ALBION ST NAPIER ST CATHERINE ST Central Station BOURKE ST Historical Walking Tours — Community / 02. OXFORD ST FITZROY ST BROADWAY KIPPAX ST ALBION AVE PADDINGTON ST

PARRAMATTA RD LEE ST ARUNDEL ST SOUTH DOWLING ST KNOX ST FOVEAUX ST ORMOND ST GRAFTON ST CORBEN ST CHURCH ST NICHOLS ST

RANDLE ST GREENS RD KENSINGTON ST KENSINGTON COOPER ST HUTCHINSON WATERLOO ST

Sydney University Victoria DEVONSHIRE ST SELWYN ST WILLIAM ST HOLT ST HOLT Park OCONNOR ST RENNY ST BENNETT ST JOSEPHSON ST WELLINGTON LACEY ST

MYRTLE STROSE ST REGENT ST ARTHUR ST PROSPECT ST SHEPHERD ST QUEEN ST MARSHALL ST CROWN ST

PINE ST CHALMERS ST MOORE PARK RD PHELPS ST GORDON ST ELIZABETH ST

BUCKLAND ST MEAGHER ST RAINFORD ST OATLEY RD

ARTHUR ST ABERCROMBIE ST ABERCROMBIE CLEVELAND ST DANGAR PL BUCKINGHAM ST DAVIES ST REGENT ST

BALFOUR ST VINE ST BLACKWATTLE CLISDELL ST HUDSON ST CITY RD CLEVELAND ST VINE ST SHEPHERDBOUNDARY ST ST MAZE CRES JAMES ST EDWARD ST ABERCROMBIE ST REGENT ST JAMES ST CALDER RD HUGO ST ANZAC PDE OXFORD ST

IVY LN IVY CAROLINE ST LEWIS ST

IVY ST IVY MISSENDEN RD MISSENDEN

LAWSON ST RENWICK ST LANDER ST GEORGE ST CARILLON AVE WILLIAM ST PITT ST CLEVELAND ST DARLINGTON RD EVELEIGH ST LAWSON SQ Moore Park WELLS ST COOK RD

BURNETT

ELIZABETH ST

Redfern AVE DRIVER REDFERN ST

KING ST GREAT BUCKINGHAM ST

CODRINGTON ST CODRINGTON CLEVELAND ST LANG RD ABERCROMBIE ST TURNER ST BOURKE ST

GIBBONS ST MARGARET WILSON ST ROSEHILL ST ALBERT ST

CORNWALLIS ST

COPE ST

DOUGLAS ST REGENT ST PHILLIP ST

CHALMERS ST LANG RD LOCOMOTIVE ST BAPTIST ST

CENTRAL AVE BURREN ST BURREN RAGLAN ST Macdonaldtown HENDERSON RD

ERSKINVILLE RD SOUTH DOWLING ST Centennial Park

BOTANY RD BOTANY PITT ST PITT

BEAUMONT ST

ST ST GEORGE

ALBERT WALKER ST

WYNDHAM ST WYNDHAM

GARDEN ST GARDEN WELLINGTON ST

GERARD ST GERARD

KINGSCLEAR RD KINGSCLEAR REEVE ST

NEWTON ST NEWTON ALEXANDER ST ALEXANDER

CHARLES ST CHARLES RAILWAY PDE ST PHILLIPS KELLICK ST

ALLEN AVE PARK ST PARK ST

CLARA ST CLARA RENWICK

COPE ST COPE ROBERTSON RD JENNINGS ST ST JOHN ST

SWANSON DIBBS ST LACHLAN ST Erskinville SUTTOR ST COPELAND ST PARK RD PARK POWER AVE DACEY AVE

FOX AVE MCEVOY ST

ELIZABETH ST

ROCHFORD ST FOUNTAIN ST ST PITT

MALCOLM ST ST BRENNAN POWELL ST

GEORGE ST

BRIDGE ST LOVERIDGE

VICTORIA ST ASHMORE ST ST GEORGE ELLIOT AVE ALISON RD

ASHMORE ST ALLEN ST BELMONT ST

MITCHELL RDHARLEY ST LAWRENCE ST AVE STOKES O’DEA AVE O’DEA AVE ANZAC PDE

MACDONALD ST MCCAULEY ST MCCAULEY

MCEVOY ST BOWDEN ST MANDIBLE ST BOURKE ST

FLORA ST TODMAN AVE ELIZABETH ST

EVE ST

LAWRENCE ST

COULSON ST BELMONT ST EUSTON LANE

BOURKE RD

CONCORD ST

HUNTLEY ST JOYNTON AVE ALISON RD BOTANY RD BOTANY MADDOX ST RD

St Peters EUSTON ROAD

DONCASTER AVE

O’RIORDAN ST

KING ST

HUNTLEY ST ANZAC PDE

TODMAN AVE

BURROWS RD

Sydney Park EPSOM RD LENHALT ST Royal

COLLINS ST LINK RD

EPSOM RD PRINCES HWY ALISON RD

CAMPBELL RD DALMENY AVE

EUSTON ROAD

SOUTH DOWLING ST BOURKE RD

ROTHSCHILD AVE MORELY AVE

ROSEBERRY AVE

BURROWS RD

DALMENY AVE

HARCOURT PDE

GARDENERS RD PDE ANZAC

BOTANY RD O’RIORDAN ST RICKETTY ST

KENT RD

GARDENERS RD DALMENY AVE DALMENY COMMUNITY SYDNEY’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

01 Sydney Town Hall 02 St Andrews Cathedral

Sydney Town Hall is the seat of local government of Designed by Edmund Blacket, Sydney’s Anglican the City of Sydney. This building was built in stages Cathedral is a fine pocket handkerchief-sized version between 1869 and 1889 on the site of what was of older European examples. Notice that the building known as the Old Burial Ground. Between 1792 and stands with its back to the street with its main door when it closed in 1820, about 2,000 people were and dominant spires fronting onto Sydney Square. buried here. Many of the graves were shallow and There was supposed to be a street here too but by people used to complain about the stench. According the time this building was finished in the 1860s it to the official notice, the Burial Ground was closed had disappeared. Plans for a Cathedral and a grand because it was offensive to the inhabitants. Before square in this spot went back to the early years of the the Town Hall was built, the bodies were supposedly 19th century, but at that time this was too far from the exhumed, but even today whenever there is digging in centre of town to take seriously. With the old disused the area a stray skeleton is likely to turn up. burial ground to its north, and brickfields and markets nearby, it was an isolated place until the second half The Town Hall’s high Victorian architectural style and of the 19th century. decorative excesses earned it the nickname “The Wedding Cake Building”. In the 1960s some people even thought it should be pulled down. Today, the Town Hall steps are a favourite Sydney meeting place.

Sydney Town Hall, 1930s (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

St Andrews Cathedral, c1901 (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

Cleaning the Sydney Town Hall clock, 1937 (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

(Photograph: Gary Deirmendjian collection, City of Sydney Archives)

Walk down George Street, cross Bathurst Street, pass the cinemas and turn right into Albion Place (03).

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 03. COMMUNITY SYDNEY’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

03 Albion Place 06 Trades Hall

Sydney’s streets were not the result of a planner’s Trades Hall was designed by John Smedley and scheme, but developed through custom and chance. began construction in 1888. This building was the Laneways such as this one were once common all over headquarters and meeting place for the trade unions for the city. The southern side of this lane is a reminder of many years. Some of its interiors still retain early 20th an older warehousing period. century signs and the building houses a large collection of trade union banners used in May Day and Labor Day Turn left into Kent Street. Here there are several good examples of street marches. Step inside and imagine the raised turn of the century warehouses in characteristic red brick, with voices singing The Internationale. sandstone trim. If you look up Kent Street to the right you will notice a freestanding Georgian house, The Judge’s House (04) at 531 Kent Street. Opposite the Trades Hall are the ceremonial gates that will take 07 you into Dixon Street Mall, the heart of Sydney’s Chinatown. Or 04 The Judge’s House you can turn right and head down to a peaceful retreat in the Chinese Gardens in Darling Harbour (07). In 1988, ’s non-Aboriginal settlement was 200 years old. These gardens were a bicentennial gift to the young City of Sydney from the ancient Built in 1827, this is a rare surviving free standing house city of Canton (Guangzhou) in southern China, the region where in the city. It was built for Judge Dowling who was the most of Sydney’s early Chinese came from. NSW Chief Justice from 1828 to 1830, but for almost a Continue along Dixon Street (08) to the end. Many of the Chinese century it served a very different purpose as the City Night firms here are new, but some, like the War Hing at No. 49 date back Refuge and Soup Kitchen, a charitable organisation for many decades. At Nos. 52–54 the August Moon Restaurant may the area’s poor. look new, but there has been a Chinese restaurant on this site for over half a century. Walk down Kent Street, turn right into Liverpool Street, and head for Sussex Street. This area is known as the Spanish Quarter. There SYDNEY’S CHINATOWN has been a Spanish presence in this area from the last decades of the 19th century. Just before you reach Sussex Street, take the little There has been a Chinese presence in Sydney dog-legged Douglass Lane (05). for almost 200 years. Many of the early Chinese Sydneysiders were market gardeners and traders, so wherever the markets were, so were the Chinese. 05 Douglass Lane Between 1909 and 1915 the City Council built a new market complex at the head of Darling Harbour. Chinese traders and importers rented market space and stores from the Council. Shops and restaurants This is another remnant laneway of this old industrial followed, especially in Dixon Street which became area of town. Imagine coaxing your horse and cart up the focus of Chinatown. Rooms above these shops the incline of the cobbled section. This will get you to sometimes became home for the Chinese traders Sussex Street and the beginning of Chinatown. and for retired gardeners who were unable to return home. The precinct became run down by the mid 20th century; the numbers of Chinese dwindled and the markets moved out of the city. Chinatown was refurbished in the 1980s. With increasing numbers of Chinese in the city once again, it has become a very popular tourist precinct as well as a meeting place for Sydney’s Chinese community.

08 Dixon Street

Just as you pass the ceremonial gates on Dixon Street, look up to the left. The painted sign on this old building announces the Jong Wah (Chinese Republic) Association and the Dong Guan Goon Yee Tong. This old clan association was actively involved in the welfare of Chinese who came to try their luck on the goldfields in the 19th century. It has been meeting in Corner of Sussex Street and Douglass Lane, c1909 (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives) this building since 1917. Turn left into Sussex Street, then right into and head for the Trades Hall building (6) on the corner.

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 04. COMMUNITY SYDNEY’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

haymarket 11 Aaron’s Hotel This precinct has been known as Haymarket since the 1830s. At that time it was on the outskirts of town and was used as a cattle and hay market. In the 1860s fruit This building at 37 Ultimo Road is one of the most intact and vegetable markets were built here and the area of the old market buildings. Also known as the Wing became a locale for market people. Market gardeners, On Building, it was leased to this large Chinese firm for including many Chinese, would bring their produce many years. The Wing On Company began in Sydney to market and stay overnight in the nearby boarding in 1897, importing nuts, tea, rice, fireworks and ginger. houses. Shops and cookhouses followed, with Paddy’s Eventually this business became a major retailer back Market and several theatres providing added colour to in China and Hong Kong. the area. For Sydney’s lower classes, Saturday night at the Haymarket was the place to be. Retrace your steps along Ultimo Road until you reach Thomas Street. Look up to the right along Ultimo Road and notice the inscription “KMT 1921” (12) on the pediment of the building at No. 75–77.

12 The Kuomintang (KMT)

This was the political organisation that ousted the Chinese Emperors and introduced the first taste of democracy to China in the early 20th century. This building was the headquarters for the party in Australia and the Pacific.

When you reach George Street cross over it and walk north towards Hay Street.

13 Hay Street Chambers

The little sandstone building on the corner of Hay and George Streets was built in 1875 as a bank. During its life the ground floor has played many roles, including a café, a shoe store, and a cake shop. In 1990 the City Paddy’s Fruit and Vegetable Markets, c1950 of Sydney restored the building and in 1992 it opened (City of Sydney Archives) as the Haymarket Branch of the City’s Library. It offers newspapers and books in Chinese, Indonesian, Korean, Head past the Paddy’s Markets Thai and Vietnamese languages. 09 (09) down Thomas Street then right into Ultimo Road to the corner of Quay Street and take Walk down Hay Street past some of the city’s most charming little a look at the Sydney Market’s businesses (14) and (15). Bell Tower (10). Opposite the markets is Aaron’s Hotel (11). 14 Cyril’s Fine Foods Market tower on the corner of Quay and Hay Streets, 1920 (City of Sydney Archives) Cyril’s is one of the oldest delicatessens in Sydney. It was started by Czechoslovakian immigrant Cyril Vincenc in 10 The Sydney Markets’ Bell Tower 1956 and he can still be seen working in the shop today more than half a century later.

The foundation stone is dated 1910. Most of the building has been demolished, but the tower was conserved in 1985 when new university buildings were constructed on the site. On one of the old cart openings on Quay Street you can still see the painted name of A Yee, a firm of produce agents.

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 05. COMMUNITY SYDNEY’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

15 Site of The Roma Café 17

When Italian coffee makers opened a cafe called This little sandstone building, built in 1912–13, has The Roma in the 1960s the quality of Sydney’s coffee been home to diverse organisations. It has housed went up a notch and this cafe very quickly became a a German Social Club, a Roman Catholic lay place to be seen. The Roma closed its doors in 2005. organisation, a couple of theatres and the Cyprus Hellene Club. But its greatest importance is to Sydney’s Aboriginal people. Here on 26 January Walk through the covered plaza on the northern side of Hay 1938, during official celebrations of 150 years of Street into Campbell Street. Here you will find more interesting European settlement, Aboriginal leaders called for Chinese shops and on your right is the Capitol Theatre (16). a Day of Mourning and drew up a list of political demands for full citizenship. It is widely recognised as the first Aboriginal civil rights movement. The building 16 capitol theatre is listed on state and national heritage registers because of its high cultural and social significance.

Day of Mourning, 1938 This building was designed (Photograph courtesy Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW) by George McRae and completed in 1893 as a fruit and vegetable market. It was located next door to older markets that had been on the site since the 1860s. Originally a single storey Capitol Theatre in the 1930s (Photograph: City of Sydney building, the Belmore Markets Archives) was rebuilt with an extra floor in the early 20th century, and used as a circus venue, a cinema and a theatre. If you look up you will see that the terracotta pediment is decorated with fruits and, surprisingly, choko vines. The humble choko has all but disappeared from our vegetable menu. By the 1980s, the building had become very run down. It was restored by Ipoh Garden for the City Council in the early 1990s. The exuberant 1920s interior, imported 18 Former Mark Foys Emporium from the United States, is intended to evoke a romantic courtyard with a ceiling lit to imitate a star studded night sky. This was one of the largest and grandest department stores in the city. The original 1909 three storey building designed by McCredie and Anderson grew to six stories over the years. Notice the distinctive white glazed bricks and deep yellow terracotta trim announcing Hosiery, Shoes, Corsets and other items for sale. When trains were the most popular method of going Capitol Theatre interior after refurbishment to town, the store thrived (Photograph: City of Sydney) because of its proximity to Mark Foys advertisement the underground railway (Image: City of Sydney Archives) Head down past the theatre to the end of Campbell Street, go under station. However, the extension of the trains further the railway overpass and turn left into Elizabeth Street. From here north left Mark Foys down the unfashionable end of it is a short walk to Hyde Park. On the way you pass town and the store was closed in 1983. It now houses Hall (17) at No. 150 and the Mark Foys Emporium (18). legal courts and is officially called the .

Cross over into Hyde Park to end this tour. At this southern end of the park is the ANZAC (19).

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 06. COMMUNITY SYDNEY’S diverse people Historical Walking Tour

19 The ANZAC War 20 Memorial

This is one of Sydney’s This flamboyant fountain depicts a bronze Apollo and most interesting other mythological characters. If your eyes are good you buildings. Designed might be able to read an explanation of the allegorical by , it was figures at the base of the north-east corner of the statue. opened in 1934. It contains But while its inspiration might be ancient Greece, it was sculptures by an English- bequeathed to the people of Sydney by J F Archibald to born migrant, Raynor Hoff. commemorate the association of Australia and France His beautiful interior statue Medals of war service during , and was designed by French called Sacrifice depicts (Photograph: City of Sydney) sculptor Francois Sicard. a group of three women Archives) Archibald was the editor of The Bulletin, a paper that supporting a dead soldier. encouraged writers to write about Australia, but he They represent the givers of life, weighed down by himself was a confessed Francophile. He sported a neat death. This piece is often interpreted as a powerful French-styled beard and changed his given names from peace symbol, and at the time of construction, this John Feltham to Jules Francois. Most Sydneysiders memorial generated a lot of debate. The memorial would have no idea who Archibald was, but everyone contains no names, but 120,000 stars in the ceiling loves his fountain. represent those from NSW who served.

ANZAC Memorial, c1950s (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

Children at the Archibald Fountain At the other end of Hyde Park is the Archibald Fountain (20). (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

Historical Walking Tours — Community / 07. historical walking tours

Discover more of historic Sydney with the other walking tour brochures in this series.

More information can be found at the City’s website: www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/history or call the City of Sydney on 9265 9333 We welcome your feedback: [email protected]

This story is one of many layers www.dictionaryofsydney.org

Think before you bin this guide After reading, pass it on to someone else who might find it useful or recycle it.

This brochure was prepared by the History Program at the City of Sydney. 5th edition, November 2011. HWT 4