HERITAGE CULTURAL DISCOVERIES

TOURIST OFFICE Place de la Gare – 73700 Bourg Saint Maurice tél. + 33 4 79 07 12 57 – [email protected] www.lesarcs.com

THE CULTURAL HERITAGE DEPARTMENT Jean-Marie Chevronnet, guide-lecturer GUIDED TOURS, CONFERENCES, ACADEMIC INTERVENTIONS THE HISTORY OF BOURG SAINT MAURICE

In the Gallo-Roman period, Bourg Saint Maurice’s coat of arms Bourg Saint Maurice was known as Bergintrum. The town was located • In the centre is the Cross of on the Roman road running from on which is attached the trefoil Vienne (Isère) to Milan () and cross of Saint Maurice, close to a stream called Bergenta • the initials SM for Saint-Maurice, (nowadays, a quarter in the town • the five-pointed shepherd’s star, has taken the name Bourgeat). In the an ear of wheat (arable farming) Middle Ages, the parish was known placed between two bells (livestock as the Ecclesia Sancti Mauricii , farming), Saint Maurice being its patron saint. • a ceutron’s helmet as a reminder of It was not until around the 15th the valley’s first inhabitants, century that the word bourg in the • a pine tree to evoke the forest. form burg (large village or fortified town) appea red. Thus, Burgum Saint Maurice sancti Mauricci became the bourg saint Maurice. In 1794, the revolu- Saint Maurice lived during the tionaries renamed it Nargue-Sardes Roman period and commanded the Ski competition in the 50’s. due to the proximity of its border Theban Legion, a force made up of with the States of Savoie. The name around 6,000 Christian soldiers. Bourg Saint Maurice only appeared When crossing the , Emperor Situated at the heart of the Upper Tarentaise, Bourg Saint Maurice at the end of the 19th century. Maximilian Hercules wanted to offer a sacrifice to Jupiter, the divinity combines tourism with tradition in a way that pleases everyone: of the place in order to be able to Baroque churches and chapels, traditional life in the Alpine pastures, continue his journey unhindered. The Theban Legion refused to take part historic and avant-garde architecture… so many opportunities in this pagan ritual, preferring to die. to explore the thousand and one aspects of a little known side of Savoie Soon afterwards, an Abbey was built where culture and rural heritage go side by side. on the site of the martyrdom. Saint Maurice was chosen as the patron saint of the House of Savoie and he TOURS became an object of worship also in Valais and the Valley. The fees for the visits as well as Publication director - Bourg Saint Maurice Tourisme. the schedule can be found in the Editor-in-chief J.-M. Chevronnet. Editorial board Association patrimoine Borain | A.-M. Bimet | J.-M. Chevronnet | programme made available every G. Rey-Millet | R. Vallat | D. Vialard | M. Viallet-Détraz | P. Vidonne. week at the tourism office of Photo credits OT Les Arcs - Bourg Saint Maurice | Archives Les Arcs | Bourg Saint Maurice/Les arcs. Archives communale de Bourg Saint Maurice | A.-M. Bimet | J. Calop | J. Canova | Statue of Saint Maurice, th J.-M. Chevronnet | C. Chneider | S. Clement / Arpin | M. Gaimard | S. Godin | Vulmix Chapel, 16 Century. C. Godino | J. Jarre | N. Joly | T. Lacour | C. Madamour | M. Marchand | P. Marot | M. Reyboz | J. Rivière | Syndicat de défense du Beaufort (L’atelier S. Madelon) | J.-Y. & R. Vallat | D. Vialard | L. Villien | DR. Font cover: Arc 1600, “Grande Rue”, th Graphic design N. Blanchet Illustrations I. Desse | Pic Bois. the slope and the button lift early 20 Century. Acknowledgements I. Mc Carthy | Archives communale de Bourg Saint Maurice | of “Cachette” Winter 1968-69 Filature Arpin | Syndicat de défense du Beaufort. Print by Edelweiss, printed on paper from renewable sources. Document non contractual. 2 3 The Rochefort tower, in the 1930s. HERITAGE TRAIL OF BOURG SAINT MAURICE 2 • The Rochefort Tower The feudal seat of the lords of Villa- raymon, built on a promontory close The route designed to discover to the Roman road, was surrounded by Bourg Saint Maurice’s cultural heri- ditches, crenelated towers and a keep tage is an insight to the main village (now a tower). Between 1579 and 1590, with the help of twelve signs spread disastrous floods covered this lordly 4 • The Bourgeat District out in the entire town. home, occupied at the time by the lord LENGTH OF TIME 1H30-2H | SEE PLAN PAGE 9. Rochefort-Villaraymon, in mud. A district “outside the town” and a major thoroughfare, the Charbonnet 1 • The Upper Tarentaise THE LORDSHIP OF VILLARAYMON | In 1270, runs through it. This river, powered an Dairy Cooperative it belonged to Jacob Villario Aymonis. oil and grain mill and later became the It then passed to the Bovets of , town’s first electricity provider. The In the 19th century, arable and lives- then to the Gillys (end of the 15th centu- Bourgeat, formerly the town’s farming tock farming were the main resources The animal trade fair, beginning of the 20th Century. ry) and finally following alliances with district, was a collection of farms sur- of the Upper . In the Rocheforts, the two titles were rounded by orchards where the tarine, 1888 the tarine breed’s Herd-book In 1894, a fruitière-école (cheese ma- that agricultural produce did not sell combined. In 1640, the lordship passed the Tarentaise breed of cattle, was was established. In 1891 the special king school) was set up in BourgSaint- well. From 1964 onwards, some of the to the Chapels, then to the Savoiroux. partly developped. HEAD FOR THE RUE cattle show was already being held Maurice to train people in the art of village fruitières closed down and the DE LA BOURGEAT, THE MONTÉE DES CAPUCINS in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. During the cheese making. (The term fruitière entire town’s production was centred 3 • The Trinity Chapel THEN THE RUE DESSERTEAUX. roman period, Pliny used to eulogise means: fruit, the product of com- on the fruitière in the county town over the various cheeses from the munal work of a village or hamlet). which took the name Coopérative In the past, the village of La Trinité RUE DESSERTEAUX | Captain Desser- Tarentaise and praised the quality of From 1921, rural gatherings expanded. laitière de HauteTarentaise (Upper was located « beyond the Town, on teaux was born in 1917. He joined the The Capucins Fields, end of the 19th Century. its dairy cattle. In the Middle Ages, In every hamlet and in the town, Tarentaise Dairy Cooperative). the plain near the road leading to 70th Bataillon Alpin de Forteresse . vachelin was made from the 18th cen- producers got together to create Séez (1790 tour) ». Built around 1789, In 1940, he defended the fort of the tury grovire . Beaufort only earned its fruitières to make cheese. Economic PLACE DE CASTEX | Antoine de Castex it replaced another chapel dedica- Redoute-Ruinée (situated above the 5 • The Capucins Fields AOC (nowadays AOP) in 1968. recession from 1960 to 1964 meant was born in 1915. In June 1940, he joi- ted to Sainte-Trinité, which was des- resort of la Rosière de ). ned the Resistance with Jean Bulle troyed in a flood in 1764. HEAD FOR THE He was killed in Indo-China, where he A monastery or hospice was foun- against the Italian invasion. He was RUE DE LA BOURGEAT. was a volunteer, on 25 September 1947. ded on this site in 1627 through killed on 22 June 1940 at the Col de the charity of the local population la Seigne (a col situated on the Italian and the community was limited to frontier in the Chapieux valley). 12 monks on the instructions of Pope HEAD FOR THE AVENUE ANTOINE BORREL. Urban VIII. The Capucins Fields en- closed the monastery, a chapel, a gar- AVENUE ANTOINE BORREL | Born in 1878, den and a large orchard. The estate a journalist and politician. Député was sold as National Property under (UK=MP) (1908), then Senator for the French Revolution and in 1880 Savoie (1931-1940), President of the became a school run by the Frères Conseil général (departmental au- des écoles chrétiennes (brothers of thority) of Savoie (1920-1940), Under- Christian schools). HEAD FOR THE PLACE Secretary of State. He fought against MARCEL GAIMARD. the depopulation of the countryside and unemployment and favoured the development of tourism. He founded The Cheese making School: students and teachers, 1931. the États Généraux du Tourisme en Sa- The Catholic School, beginning voie (the Savoie Tourist Convention). of the 20th Century.

4 5 “Maison des Têtes” (House of Heads) at the beginning of the 20th Century.

6 • Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) 7 • Maison des Têtes 8 • The Upper Part of Town and Place Marcel Gaimard (House of Heads) This part of town, endured several Before Savoie was annexed to N° 92 GRANDE-RUE | This house which changes. The Memorial built in 1922, in 1860, this square bore the name of dates from the end of the 19th Cen- where an indoor market (called “Gre- Charles-Albert, ruler of the kingdom tury used to belong to the Delponti nette” in French) used to be held was of Piedmont-Sardinia. In 2001, the family. Giovanni Delponti was born also known as “Place des Clarisses”, municipality decided to pay homage in Italy in 1820 and studied wood “Place Napoléon”, “Place de la Répu- to its former Mayor (1971 to 1989), carving for two years at the Varallo blique” and “Place Grenette”. Since who died in April 2001, by renaming school in Val Sesia. It took him 30 2016, part of this upper town is being the square Marcel Gaimard. The N° 121 GRANDE-RUE | Walnut door da- years to carve all the sculptures refurbished. Several buildings have previous Town Hall built in 1929 and ting from the 19th century decorated which adorn the facade of this been demolished: the old hospital/ bombed in June 1940, was replaced with a carved rosette. HEAD FOR N° 133. house. The horizontal lines feature old people’s home “Saint Michel”, in 1953 by the current building built The town hall, in the 1930s. relief scrolls in the centre of which and the “Centre Jean-Moulin” (which by the architect Raymond Pantz. It is N° 133 GRANDE-RUE | Beautiful 19th Cen- are the heads. In the centre of the originally was the military infirmary). listed as a 20th Century Heritage Site. Grande-rue – Old doors tury double door decorated with façade, Giovanni Delponti and his Thus, allowing the new construc- two lions facing each other. Wrought wife (Tarentaise head-dress), below, tions to be more functional and will WHO WAS CHARLES-ALBERT? | Charles- THE GRANDE-RUE | Long-time main N° 21 GRANDE-RUE | A walnut door with metal gate from 1880. Diamond point members of the family and famous gather several public services in one Albert de Savoie-Carignan was born street and trunk road of Bourg Saint two panels one of which has relief decoration. HEAD FOR N° 170. figures: Danton, Robespierre, Thiers, building: a music school, a library, in 1798. First Prince then King of Sardi- Maurice, the Grande-Rue has retai- fluting. Above the door which dates Cavour and Marianne. The vertical an old people’s home and private nia from 1831 to 1849, his life was lin- ned some interesting architectural from the 18th century, can be seen a N° 170 GRAND-RUE | Beautiful 19th Cen- lines feature medallions representing accommodation. ked to the history of Savoie. A popu- features, such as the carved doors, fanlight and a stone lintel bearing tury walnut door made up of two lions and volutes. The window lintels lar king in Tarentaise, in 1836, he gave ironwork and old shop windows various inscriptions: carved panels: lozenges and floral are decorated with cornucopia and his name to the present-day town of which can be seen when strolling • the dates 1651 and 1709 (construc- decoration, rosettes and diamond the ledges below the roof are ador- . HEAD FOR THE GRAND-RUE. through the town. In the 18th Cen- tion and restoration of the house), point decoration. Wrought iron fan- ned with mythological figures. 1 tury, this street ended between the • the initials IHS (Christ’s monogram) light. HEAD FOR N° 196. hospital and the grain market. and those of the house’s first owners: B (Blanche) and R (Rullier). N° 196 GRAND-RUE | One last beautiful 1 • “Place Grenette” and the church, This door lintel has survived 19th Century double door: two carved before 1922. 2 • Military and Public Hospital, various floods of the Arbonne and panels. Wrought iron fanlight. HEAD around 1930. a fire which ravaged a large part of FOR THE PLACE DU MONUMENT AUX MORTS. 3 • The new hospital, around 1935. Bourg Saint Maurice during the French Revolution.

2 Charles Albert Square, beginning of the 20th Century.

3 The Alpine troops at the top of the “Grande Rue”. 6 7 1

RUE JEAN-MOULIN | Jean Moulin was born in 1899. He was the sub-prefet in Albertville, then prefet of Chartres. A great «unifier» of the Résistance around General de Gaulle, he was betrayed and died in 1943 having been deported. 2 12 • Railway station 10 • Communal wash house 3 and fountain Built in 1913 and opened the fol- AVENUE DE LA GARE | This avenue was lowing year, it marked the end of the only completed in 1933. All the The wash house was built in 1942 ac- SaintPierre d’Albigny–Bourg-Saint- buildings on the right date from cording to the plans of the architect Maurice line. It has contributed to the 1960’s. Raymond Pantz (architect of the Town the valley’s economic development Hall). The fountain trough was used and was extended at the time of the to water livestock. It was in the pres- in 1992 with entday place du Monument aux morts. the addition of a bus station. HEAD FOR THE ROUTE DE MONTRIGON. • 1986 – Opening of the TGV Routes and texts carried out by Atlantique Bourg-Saint-Maurice. the association TRADITIONS AND RUE DU CENTENAIRE | This avenue was 1 • The building of the Train Station, • 1997 – Arrival of the BOURG SAINT MAURICE’S CULTURAL HERI- named to commemorate the hun around 1913. from London. TAGE, the ARCHIVES & CULTURAL HERI- 2 • “Avenue de la gare”, in the 1960s. dredth anniversary of the attachment 3 • The departure of the “Express” • 1998 – Arrival of the Thalys TAGE unit and the TOURIST OFFICE OF of Savoie to France in 1860. One of in the 1920s. from Amsterdam-Bruxelles. BOURG SAINT MAURICE The Church, at the beginning of the 20th Century. the principal architects of the attach- ment was Alexis Billet (1783-1873), 9 • Church of Saint-Maurice-d’Agaune and its bell-tower from , who became bishop of , archibishop of This church became unfit for use and the Baby Jesus’ Virgin. The sculptor Chambéry, then cardinal. was demolished in 1844 to make way Giovanni Delponti, established in for the new church. Only the belltower Bourg-Saint-Maurice was responsible 11 • Cinema and municipal 9 8 4 was retained. The new church was for the pulpit and the baptismal font. hall complex 3 consecrated in 1852. The king of The bell tower was razed to the ground 7 Sardinia took an active interest in the in 1794 on the orders of the Albitte After the municipal hall was des- 5 2 building of the church which he wanted Convention and the bells transferred troyed in the bombardment of June 6 1 to be in the neoclassical Sardinian style. to Moûtiers. It was rebuilt in 1812-1813. 1940, it was decided to rebuild it in 10 Accordingly, the painter Marghinotti GO BACK UP THE GRANDE RUE, THEN TAKE THE a complex also housing a cinema, executed the two large canvasses AVENUE DU CENTENAIRE AND GO DOWN THE the tax office and the public baths, 11 of The Baby Jesus’ Saint Joseph and RUE JEAN MOULIN. according to the plans of the archi- 12 tect Henry Maréchal. Opened in 1958, the complex has been listed as a 20th Century heritage site. HEAD FOR THE AVE- NUE MARÉCHAL-LECLERC.

1. Upper Tarentaise Dairy Cooperative 5. The Capucins Field 9. Church of Saint-Maurice-d’Agaune 2. The Rochefort Tower 6. Town Hall and place Marcel Gaimard 10. Communal wash house and fountain 3. The Trinity Chapel 7. House of Heads 11. Municipal hall and cinema 4. The Bourgeat District 8. Haut-Bourg District 12. Railway station

Medieval Religious Agriculture 20th Century History The outline for the Village Hall project ruin buildings and tradition Architecture recognition Henry Maréchal, 1954.

8 9 Our dialect is no longer spoken, however it has survived through THE DIALECT these names, which constantly re- FRANCO-PROVENÇAL mind us of its existence.

Villages, locations, The mountain “” or “Roignaix” (2995 m), in the uplands of Beaufortain. Between the langue d’oïl mountain tops and streams and the langue d’oc LE CHÂTELARD (VILLAGE ON THE ROAD LE ROGNAIX (SUMMIT THAT RISES MALGOVERT (FOREST ON THE SLOPES The franco-provencal zone is situa- TO LES CHAPIEUX) ABOVE BOURG SAINT MAURICE) OF LES ARCS) ted between the northern part of From the Latin castellum, a forti- The word rònyeuye means “some- The word probably comes from France (Oïl) and the southern part fied post, bulwark, populated and body angry, who grumbles a lot and “mògòvér”, which means poorly gover- (Oc), which concerns three countries: fortified place… then castellarium. who is in a bad mood” in regional ned in regional dialect. In the Middle- France with two Savoie departments, Logically, they built these construc- dialect. The summit which often Ages, Bourg Saint-Maurice was part the southern Jura (Bugey, pays de Gex, tions on the promontories or on the receives thunderstorms. The name of The Marquisate of Saint Maurice, Franche-Comté), Bresse, the Lyonnais high mounds. Inspired by the dialect, is changed on the map to Roignaix. whereas Séez was part of The County and the northern Dauphiné. Italy the word was replaced by tsassèlòr. of Val d’Isère. These two domains with the and the Alpine “Castellarium which doesn’t mean a LE CLAPEY (THE MOUNTAIN shared the forest of Malgovert, crea- valleys of Piedmont. The French- castle but, a settlement, a village or TOP ABOVE SÉEZ) ting many conflicts. In 1675, in order speaking part of Switzerland. a town near the castle.”2 The word klapèye in regional dialect to resolve these ongoing disputes, comes from the pre-Romanesque the Senate of Savoie decided to en- A Roman language enriched TRÈVES (SITUATED BETWEEN root klappo: rocks, stones, linking grave a border stone with both of the by several heritages BOURG SAINT MAURICE AND SÉEZ) directly with the verbal root klapf: lords’ coat arms. Two border stones Vi (from the word trèviè) means split. This refers a big pile of stones can still be seen: one, near the elec- The history of the franco-proven- The hamlet of Châtelard, at the beginning of the 20th Century. “path, road” in regional dialect. The and rocks from a previous rockslide tric power station and the second çal dialect began with the Roman word comes from Latin trivium: in but that is still visible. one near the hamlet of Courbaton. conquest and the Latinization of the Roman times, a junction of three Ceutrones that lived in our valleys. Dialect & toponymy roads: the road from Bourg Saint LANCEBRANLETTE (THE MAIN SUMMIT Anne-Marie Bimet Following the invasions, the Burgun- Maurice, the cols pass Iseran and the OF THE COL DU PETIT SAINT BERNARD) dians and the Franks left traces in the In order to understand the name of sing their sense. The last pieces of Petit Saint Bernard. The word probably comes from 1. Découvrir les parlers de Savoie. language that “evolved more, or less, a place, often it is necessary to refer evidence from this era, the name of lantsibranlèta (in regional dialect). G. Tuaillon. in the same way from community to to its dialect form. Indeed, with the the places provide us with valuable LE NANTET (A STREAM WHICH GOES The word lanche is “a strip of steep 2. Dictionnaire des noms de lieu de la Savoie. A. Gros. community, throughout roughly 15 creation of maps the original names information concerning its geology, THROUGH BOURG SAINT MAURICE) and narrow land, but grassy and even. 3. Lieux en mémoire de l’alpe. centuries, leading to a diversity of had to be Gallicized for writing and climate, vegetation, any historical The word nan in regional dialect It rises above the ravines, torrents or H. Bessat & C. Germi. dialects today”. 1 they were often changed, thus lo- events… (spelled nant in French) comes from mountain ridges”3. The word branlèta the Celtic meaning a stream or tor- means “the wild chives”. rent. The word nantet is a diminutive. Nouhon patòè Our dialect In Bourg Saint-Maurice THE GROUP Y’é nouhon prèdjé It’s our way of speaking TRADITION ET PATRIMOINE BORAINS of Y’é nouha linva, bèla, lèvèta It’s our beautiful, light language patois speakers LU BARTAVÈ DU BÒRH En’ plahi d’aplatò lu mòte, le lè fè Instead of flattening the words, it’s as if (The Chatters of Bourg) who work danhié su lèz òlè dè la pinché, they dance on the wings of the thought, to collect and highlight this precious Én’ fachin an che bèla mouzeka… Making such a beautiful sound… linguistic heritage that is in danger of Agouha-la aouè lèz euèlyè Taste it with the ears being forgotten. Asseûa son flò pè lè tsaré- du Smell these aromas through the streets vladzò, lò flò d’an vya dza ya… of the village, the aromas of a past life…

(In order to read this dialect, take into consideration stressed syllables on the underlined vowel. Otherwise, accentuate the last syllable like in French.) The statue of “Saint-Bernard des Alpes” & the peak of “Lancebranlette” (2936 m) at the Italian border. 10 11 THE COSTUMES AND JEWELLERY OF THE UPPER TARENTAISE

There are no less than twenty tradi- “Ferrer sa femme...” (Shoeing his wife) Wealth and diveristy tional costumes in Savoie, each one having its own characteristics, head When a young man chose his future To understand the richness and dress, shawls… These days the tra- spouse, he had to give her a certain diversity of the jewellery which ditional costume and its head dress number of jewels: cross, heart, ear- formed girls’ trousseaus, we have known as the “frontière” are no lon- rings, ring… the number and splendour to go back to the cultural and poli- ger worn very much.. of which depended on the wealth of tical context of the age. Due to the family. This custom known as fer- its geographical position, Savoie Lace, ribbons, rer sa femme dates from the Middle was subject to influences from the embroidery, gold thread… Ages ; a period when nonnobles could kingdoms of Piedmont-Sardinia, not wear gold jewellery and when the France and Austria. From 1650, evi- This three-pointed head dress is indis- only tradesman able to work in iron dence can be found of goldsmiths’ sociable from the couèche which is its was none other than the farrier. work in church ornaments, dishes, hairstyle. This is hair plaited in a parti- silver cutlery for the aristocracy and cular way with a hemp ribbon then co- vered with a velvet ribbon, which are Traditional wedding outfit, 1920. drawn into a crown at the back of the head and fixed to the head dress with gentry. It was not until nearly the ley (sometimes each village) having black-headed pins. The modestie, a end of the 18th Century that jewel- different jewellery. These days this white front made of strips of fluted lery became available to country jewellery is made in Bourg Saint or flat lace attached to the front of people (crosses in silver, then gold Maurice in the purest tradition and the dress with pins. This shows off the for the most part small and light). is using the same techniques as in cross and the heart worn on a ribbon In the 19th Century and particularly the 18th and 19th Centuries. or a chain. The v-necked shawl, atta- from 1820 onwards, jewellery got ched to the ruff, must have two pleats bigger and followed the evolution TOUR on the shoulders and match up with of the costume to create sump- the modestie. The dress is the base tuous flowered crosses, bracelets ESPACE SAINT ÉLOI of the costume since all the parts are and brooches, all displaying fine Based in the heart of the village of attached to it by black-headed pins. workmanship. If Savoyard jewellery Seez, an old forge holds three dif- The members of the Upper Taren- is surprising for its richness, it is also ferent exhibitions: The work of the taise folklore group Les Frontières are surprising for its diversity, each val- ancestral blacksmiths, a jewelry proud to represent and thus perpe- workshop and an introduction to tuate this fine tradition. the regional baroque art. Come dis- cover: a unique collection of regio- nal jewelry, more than 200 pieces of Savoyard jewelry (crosses, hearts, brooches…) Regular demonstrations take place to reveal the skills of the blacksmiths. 3, RUE SAINT-PIERRE, SÉEZ 04 79 40 10 38 | 04 79 41 00 15

12 13 TRADITIONS AND SKILLS

TOURS The home and its function Colonnaded houses STONES, ROOFING SLABS AND TIMBER In every village, the houses were enabled the livestock and men to The colonnaded houses round Through sensible adaptation to the grouped closely together sometimes settle at different altitudes following Bourg Saint Maurice are very often landscape, the harshness of the cli- around a rustic chapel or parish the progress of the vegetation. On the work of masons from Piedmont Although this system was attractive, Hay barrels mate and courtesy of the knowhow church. Solid, functional and mat- the ground floor, the livestock win- in Italy. As wood was scarce, the lat- it was mainly because of its practi- of the inhabitants, the traditional ching, they were suited to the rigours tered in the northern part (uphill side) ter favoured stone to build walls and cal side that it was used. Stone-built Used in the old days to transport architecture of the mountain villages of the mountain climate, using local and the people stayed in the southern stone slabs for covering roofs with columns (2 to 6 m high depending hay from the meadow to the barn, has retained all its originality. A walk materials such as stone, stone roofing part (downhill side). This single room a flat slope. on the house) support the heavy the barrels (“trèpon” in patois) took through its lanes. slabs and timber. The dry stone walls where beasts and people lived toge- overhanging roof thus creating time and know-how. Nowadays, the (80 cm to 1 metre thick) were topped ther was gradually changed into two areas sheltered from bad weather, scythe is often replaced by a motor THE APRIN SPINNING MILL, with a robust wooden framework to distinct rooms, the stable and the for drying wood or hay… Where the mower and the mule by the “trans- 200 YEARS OF HISTORY support the stone roof and the consi- kitchen separated by a grill or open- slope is steep, the columns can reach porter” but the barrel technique is Founded in 1817, the creation of derable weight of the snow in winter. work fence. Upstairs was a bedroom, a height of around ten metres. still used in places where access is Arpin’s woolen cloth is proof of the Every family owned several houses a loft and barn area. The balconies difficult. textile industry in the Alps since the from 1000 to over 2000 m. The suc- (galleries) allowed the hay or cereals beginning of the 19th Century. The cessive moves between these houses to dry and housed wood. Arpin Spinning Mill traces back in

Collecting of hay on the slopes time the wool industry. The guided of Les Arcs, in the 50s. tour will allow you to discover the different techniques such as; car- ding, spinning, weaving… on machines Life in the mountains, around 1920. listed as historical monuments. 2, RUE DE LA FILATURE, SÉEZ | 04 79 07 28 79

The hamlet of Vulmix, at the beginning of the 20th Century.

14 15 THE ORCHARDS OF TARENTAISE

Tarentaise apples, a forgotten story The meadow-orchard: a unique for the market and the varieties were and pears were also eaten fresh combination of fruits and the land not necessarily identified. Howe- and cooked, not to mention used Fruit growing in Tarentaise is an an- 230 walnut trees ; substantial figures ver, it can be said that there was a to also feed the animals. Beyond cient activity: it occupied an impor- which underline the significant place Apples and pears were grown close genuine logic to this arboriculture to being nutritive, there’s a true colla- The association CROQUEURS DE POMMES tant place in traditional agriculture, of fruit trees in traditional economy. to hamlets where individual parcels ensure a varied and continuous pro- boration between the grass and the in Savoie Tarentaise Beaufortain are although this consisted mainly of gra- At that time, the Tarentaise was the with four or five trees in each one duction of fruit (10 to 11 months per animals. One controls the grass and working on bringing out the good and zing. References can be found in local principal fruitgrowing area in Savoie were combined to create the preor- year!). The main work was the making eats the rotten fruits. The tree will value of all these different fruits. At 18th Century documents to apple (2/3 of cider pears and, 1/2 of dessert chard landscape where grass and fruit of cider, the principal drink and this create shade, without interfering present, the project “Renaissance des varieties such as Calville and Reinette. apples). After the arrival of the railway grew side by side. The fruit harvest was made from a mixture of wild and with the growth of the grass. In the vergers de Tarentaise” (the return of An impressive number of orchards in Tarentaise (1914 in Bourg Saint Mau- took place in early October before sweet apples. However, apples and end, the farmer obtains two kinds of the orchards of the Tarentaise valley) reaching an altitude of 1250 metres rice), wagonloads of Reinette, Calville people came back down from the pears were also eaten fresh and coo- harvest, natural resources (firewood, is taking place as part of a European appeared in the mappe sarde (the and Franc-Roseau apples left for Paris Alpine pastures and montagnettes. ked, not to mention used as animal honey…), the non-use of pesticides, project led by the advisory council of land registry of the period) of 1730. In and Algeria. However, a law passed in So when the cattle came down, they feed. The Tarentaise was therefore and less work out on the field as the the Tarentaise. CONTACT | 04 79 07 18 58 1837, a bet between the Duke of Savoie 1943 by the Vichy government ban- could graze without fear of choking a fruit-growing region of the first orchards itself do not need much and the Duke of Genoa put the spot- ned the marketing of local varieties by swallowing a fruit. This system order. These days, the orchards do human intervention. We still ask TOURS light on the Tarentaise apple. The bet and as a result these were supplanted also enabled the ground to be fer- not have an impact on the economic ourselves today why such a hands- involved a contest between the finest by Anglo-Saxon varieties which had tilized naturally. For this purpose, life of the valley but they are still of on method has been completely LA MAISON DE LA POMME, fruit in their respective Duchies and arrived in large quantities during the the orchards were planted exposed interest in various fields. ruled out. The fact is that during the VILLAGE DE LA CHAL the Reinette Franche from Villette in 1930’s. Golden Delicious, Starking to the wind with their branches high 50s and 60s the “Green Revolution” Not far from Bourg Saint Maurice, you Tarentaise defeated the orange ente- and Granny Smith soon held 90 % of enough to allow the beasts to pass An ancestral agroforestry advocated intensive and specialized will be able to learn more about this red by the Duke of Genoa! In 1929, the market. The production of local underneath. These trees were graf- method, yet modern farming. Though, today, industrial priceless cultural heritage. A free open in , an agricultural report fruits returned to being a family affair ted from wild apple trees known farming reveals certain limits and tour every day except in the winter. mentions the existence of 1,500 cider although, since 1986, certain varieties as francs, which were common in It can however be said that there was negative impacts, while everyone is The path SENTIER DES VERGERS joins the apple trees, 450 other apple trees and may be marketed once again. the forests or came from the family a genuine logic to this arboriculture talking about agroforestry, biodiver- orchard VERGER DE LA BALLASTIERE (Lan- nursery (the cider residue was buried to ensure a varied and continuous sity… associations, people from the dry), designed to stroll to discover, in in the ground and the seeds would production of fruit (10 to 11 months country side, and farmers take great an wide open area overlooking the germinate). It is difficult to assess per year!). The main work was the interest and wish to take action Isère, at the orchard VERGER DU SAINT- the importance of this rural activity making of cider, the principal drink PANTALÉON, more traditional, in Grand as little is yet known about it: pro- and this was made from a mixture Rosette Vallat, Gondon leading to the Village de la duction was mainly for family use not of wild and sweet apples. Apples Croqueurs de pommes Chal (see map below).

The orchard, Autumn 1952. 16 17 “Le fruit commun” ALPINE PASTURES and the big mountain In Beaufortain, only a few high moun- OF THE UPPER TARENTAISE AND THE BEAUFORTAIN tain pastures belonged to the villages and the system of communal produc- tion so widespread in Tarentaise was Man and the mountain Uphill to the alpine pasture: unknown. Clients and montagnards follow the grass existed within the structure of a large The long history of mountain people necessary goods and chattels, dogs, property owned by a real farming aris- is connected with the use of the The peripatetic way of life in the Alpine chickens, pigs, workforce and family, tocracy. All this helped in the making high-altitude grasslands. After the pastures, a sort of vertically commu- as working in the mountains called of the well-known pressed, cooked retreat of the great Wurm glaciations, ting nomadic life, can still be witnessed for lots of hands. In Beaufortain, the cheese, Beaufort. Big herds of cows primitive farmers started to appear today. The agro-pastoral system, com- length of the season in the Alpine were needed to produce this cheese between 4000 and 2000 BC. This was bining cereal production and livestock pastures was different from that which is made in very large blocks, also the time of the very first cros- rearing, gave way to the exclusive use between and Beaufort: enabling the milk produced in summer Life in the mountains, around 1930. sings of the major Alpine cols, which of the mountain grasslands for cow’s it was longer in Hauteluce as the to be processed, stored and transpor- led to transalpine dealings with milk production around the time of the mountains were not as high. In Beau- ted hygienically. The majority of these distant populations. Then from the Second World War. These moves take fort when the clients (smallholders) cheeses that were considered luxury fort cheese still exists and has been produced by the high mountain pas- Bronze Age to the Iron Age, metal- place between three well-determined entrusted their cows to the monta- goods were not eaten locally but were an AOC since 1968. It is also eaten tures and this domestication of the lurgy (due to the presence of copper areas at different altitudes: gnard (high mountain cowherd) for reserved for a wealthy clientele. Beau- locally by holidaymakers. Production cow is the proof. Accordingly, we still and iron ores in the Alps), salt extrac- • from the permanent home the summer, the verbal contract was practices have developed conside- say “give the beasts a meal” and “care tion and genuine exploitation of the (from 700-800 m), worth any number of papers signed rably and efforts have been made to for a cheese”. All the so-called “culti- Alpine pastures can be associated • via the dameu lower mountain in a Notary’s office. On 24 June, up make it less hard for the workforce. vated” landscape is not natural, but with the increased use of the cols slopes (1100-1400 m), to a thousand head of cattle could Nevertheless, there remains a deep fashioned by generations of mountain to trade with other regions. Thus, • to the top of the Alpine pastures be seen climbing up and going back respect for the land and the beast. The people, landscapes we have inherited everything was in place before the (2200-2400 m). down on 12 September. The parade vocabulary used to discuss the wealth along with the ancestral savoir-faire. Roman occupation: mineral and salt Going from the bottom to the top of all the herds converging on Ro- production and above all produce and back to the main home could selend to the sound of hand bells Martine Viallet-Détraz from the Alpine pastures such as involve eight to fifteen moves ; and church bells was an impressive livestock, skins and cheese. With the moves which were made with all the and unforgettable spectacle! improvements of the communication routes, a Roman Emperor could eat vatusicum cheese produced in our Alps. These early farmers created the routes that 21st Century Man is still using today, obviously at a different rate and by different means..

The first automatic milking machine transported by the male mule on his back

At “Saint-Michel”: the troops returning to the valley, in 1958. 18 19 BEAUFORT THE PRINCE OF GRUYÈRES

Cheese making was already in evi- monastic and village communities Production of Beaufort saw a sharp dence in the Alps during the Gallo- provided the region with huge areas slow-down around the 1960’s. Mul- Roman period. Pliny the Younger of high mountain pasture able to tiple factors combined to threaten informed the Imperial Court in Rome accommodate large herds. Although not just the existence of Beaufort of the presence of vatusium, a cheese the name Beaufort only appeared in but the very survival of mountain made in large blocks. 1865, the savoir-faire that came from agriculture itself. The high cost of the tradition of making vachelin in the labour, the huge exodus from the Land of livestock rearing… Middle Ages and the technique for countryside, compulsory purchases cradle of the tarine breed making gruyères has enabled grovire, for building hydro-electric dams, the a cheese similar to Beaufort, made development of winter sports resorts Land of livestock rearing and par- since the 18th Century. Production all led to a desertification of the high ticularly the cradle of the tarine enjoyed considerable fame, as the mountain pastures. Designed to com- Inside the Cheese Making School, 1947. (or tarenaise) breed, for centuries writings of the 18th Century and the bat the isolation caused by the exo- Bourg Saint Maurice has been repu- requisition order for ten thousand dus from the countryside, the coope- ted for the quality of its cheese, hundredweight from the Committee rative system turned out to be the key • Curdling: The cheese maker be- • Decanting and moulding: When Beaufort. The immense task of of Public Safety to feed Paris during structure in the rebirth of Beaufort. gins the production of Beaufort the cheese maker reckons the grain ground clearance undertaken by the the French Revolution bear witness. Nowadays, the milk is brought to per- by heating the milk to 32-33° C. At is “ready”, he proceeds to the de- manent dairies where the cheese is this temperature, the milk curdles canting of the curds and wraps it TOURS made, marketed and promoted. (rennet obtained by macerating all in a flaxen cloth. He molds the calves’ fourth stomachs and whey cheese in a standard wooden hoop A SEASON IN AN ALPINE PASTURE The stages of Beaufort production by ancestral methods is added to which gives the cheese its distinc- At an altitude of 1 800 m, in a remar- the milk). The curdling period must tive features. kable location, at the foot of the • 1 kg Beaufort requires 10 litres last about 30 minutes to obtain • The pressing of the cheese: The aiguille des glaciers, mountain agricul- of milk. consistent curds. cheese is then pressed for 20 hours ture follows the seasons, the grazing • 1 round of Beaufort weighs • Draining: The latter is cut into a grid before being taken to the cellar. Du- of the herds. In a chalet in the Alpine about 42 kg. with a “curd cutter” then mixed to ring those 20 hours, the beaufort is pasture you can learn about the making reduce it to the size of grain of rice. turned over and its cover is changed of Beaufort and Sérac. The tour finishes In both winter and summer, the milk • Mixing and heating: The grains are and drained. with a tasting of the various cheeses. is collected either after each milking then heated to a temperature of • Salting of the cheese: Once it has or by combining the morning’s milk 53-54° C. The mixing which starts been left to sit for 24 hours, the COOPÉRATIVE LAITIÈRE DE HAUTE with that of the previous evening. slowly is accelerated when this cheese is then dipped in brine. TARENTAISE (UPPER TARENTAISE DAIRY The milk is taken directly to the temperature is reached. • Maturing of the cheese: A minimum COOPERATIVE) village chalet or dairy and poured of 5 months, to about 12 months. To find out about the making of the into a copper caldron. The long Kept below 10 degrees with high “prince of Gruyères”, come to the process of making Beaufort is divi- humidity, the result of the cheese Coopérative laitière de Haute Taren- ded into unchanging stages, whe- will depend on the way the cheese taise. Free unaccompanied tour from ther it is handmade or produced in merchant takes good care of the Monday to Friday from 9.30 to 11.30am a mechanised dairy as it is the case cheese. The cheese is salted, rubbed LES COLOMBIÈRES ZONE ARTISANALE in Bourg Saint Maurice at the Coo- and the whole cheese is turned over (INDUSTRIAL ESTATE), pérative laitière de Haute Tarentaise twice a week. This is vital in order BOURG SAINT MAURICE | 04 79 07 08 28 (Upper Tarentaise Dairy Cooperative). for the cheese to develop its flavor.

20 21 BAROQUE ART IN THE ALPS

At the dawn of the 17th Century, the Richness and exuberance Upper Tarentaise cloaked itself in a white mantle of churches with the The tabernacle formerly lodged in a same frenzy as at the beginning of lateral recess in the choir, is now in the Middle Ages, thus wiping out the centre of the altar like a temple in decades of epidemics, scarcity miniature. Through the richness and and famine. Parish churches and exuberance of its sculptures it draws sanctuaries were built, refurbished the eye from the moment that you and decorated in a style designed to enter the sanctuary. disturb, move and appeal to the souls of the faithful: baroque art. Profusion of decoration

A profusion of statues Freedom of form, a profusion of decoration, clouds of cherubs, crea- In the high Alpine valleys, artists ting a play of light and shadow… the were to replace the marble of the baroque sculptures are the exact Italian churches with cembros pine opposite of protestant austerity. (arolla), a material which enabled them to create daring decorations. Under the chisels of the sculptors, this wood, full of resin that protec- THE ASSOCIATION DES AMIS DE L’ÉGLISE ted it from rot gave rise to curves, DE HAUTEVILLE-GONDON (Friends of the counter curves, scrolls and drapes, Hauteville-Gondon church) was set up myriads of cherubs and a profusion in 2012 and works to protect and of statues… “Such is the illustrated restore its heritage. TOURS bible of the old Savoyard country CONTACT | 04 79 07 03 19 folk”, Lucien Chavoutier. A MEDIEVAL CARTOON STRIP Located on a plateau 3 km from Bourg-Saint- Maurice, the little vil- lage of Vulmix huddles against the Saint-Grat chapel where 15th Century frescoes relate like a strip cartoon the legend of its patron saint who set out in search of Saint John the Baptist’s head in Palestine.

BAROQUE COLOURS Discover the village of Hauteville- Gondon through its baroque church, a subtle mix of polychromatic paints and gold leaf, reflections of alpine baroque.

22 23 The fortifications of “Séré de Rivières”: the Alpine Valley protection

THE FORTIFICATION In 1860, once “Savoie” unified with France, Italy represented a real threat. OF BOURG SAINT MAURICE These leads to the creation of the Alpine troops in 1888, as well as a better and more adapted system of From the break of dawn in the first protection seeing as weapons were century, the “Maison de Savoie” quickly developing and being trans- appeared at the same time as the ported from the Jura to Nice. This is thriving feudalism and the increase of known as the “Séré de Rivière” system. fortified castles. Following the first The barricade of Bourg Saint Maurice dungeons and forts, came an amount facing the Petit Saint Bernard was for- of fortifications and fortified manors. med with superposition structures These fortifications insured a control adapted to the regions of the moun- Mountain troops facing the “Mont Pourri”. of the routes and the Alpine cols. tain. Thereby, from 1890 to 1894, four forts were built, each with a strategic The structures of Maginot: the rise to war altitude point. • The banned fort of Vulmix at 1065m At the beginning of the 20th cen- Barely finished, at the start of the The tower of Chatelard, at the beginning of the 20th Century. above sea level (200m above the tury, the use of reinforced concrete war with Italy in June 1940, they In the background, the village of “Seez”. town). This was considered to be helped to the creation of a new kind endured an attack during the Battle the most modern fort in the Alps of fort which strengthened the old of the Alps, which took place end of From the tower… …to the fort. in 1914 with its reinforced concrete structures. At the end of 1930s, the June on the highest uplands at the bunkers as well as two gun-turrets beginning of a new alignment “Magi- Beaufortain borders of Tarentaise The tower of Chatelard, is known During the second battle of Mont- enclosable GF4 equipped with not” of the Alps, underground and and Maurienne. to be the oldest fort of Bourg Saint ferrat (1628-1631), Louis XIII and the machine guns, cemented forts at the Italian border: As of 1942, the immense resistance Maurice. It appears to have been French troops made a stopover in • The defence fort of Truc at 1550m • The outpost: the structure of Se- movement was lead by charismatic built at the end of the 12th Century, Bourg Saint Maurice. On June 7th 1630, above sea level, loges, at the foot of the Seigne col people, such as, Jean Marie Bulle which was strategically built on a the king orders the construction of a • The surveillance casemate of Platte and an alignment of blocks are the who lead an efficient group in Beau- boulder at the bottom of the “Petit mud fort on the bank of the Versoyen at 2000m above sea level, cols of Petit Saint Bernard and Mont. fortain whilst managing to protect Saint Bernard” col and the route to (presently the marsh) in order to set • The fort of the destroyed redoubt • The defensive position: the “Cave a their lives. the Chapieux valley. Like all defen- the front line and to be facing the at 2345m above sea level, overloo- Canon” at the bottom of the Malgo- At the end of the conflicts, the forts sive, medieval structures a door was Savoyard troops of Prince Thomas king the “Petit Saint Bernard” col, vert forest, the structure of Chatelard will be used as ammunition storage situated on the first floor with the de Savoie Carignan, who hid at the built on an old Sardinian redoubt, at the foot of the medieval tower, the (fort of Vulmix) or sold by the army help of a ladder allowing an easy ent- col “Petit Saint Bernard”. The cardinal demolished by the French in 1797. quick anti-tank barricade of Versoyen (fort of Truc and Platte). renchment in case of a threat. Richelieu, managed the construction As of 1910, the strongest location was (today no longer existent). works. Gradually, this will put off the reinforced with a resistance centre Dominique Vialard Alpine trooper wearing the army outfit. enemy in “Piémont” and the mud fort around the dome of Vaugelaz, of will have completely disappeared in Courbaton and the Têtes. the decades to follow. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the new strategy of protecting the borders, railways and barracks were built in the upper valleys. This was the case of Bourg Saint Maurice in 1913, where a train station and bar- racks were built, which no longer exists today, and served to welcome the seventh battalion of the Alpine Troops until 2012.

Rural life at the barracks, the barber.

Shacks and the fort of Vulmix Alpine troops skiing, at the beginning in the 1930s. of the 20th Century. 24 25 Pierre Faucheux, Charlotte Perriand and LES ARCS Jean Prouvé on the terrain having a chat. Jean Prouvé and Guy Rey-Millet. AN ADVENTURE The residence “Cascade”, Arc 1600.

The years between 1930 and 1960 Objectives of the new concepts saw numerous upheavals in favour Opening dates of the resorts of increasing paid holidays as well It was a matter of building something as improving living standards, which that was functional, aesthetically • 1968 - Arc 1600 explain the outstanding growth of pleasing and which fulfilled the re- • 1974 - Arc 1800 Les créateurs, tourism in France. The demands of Robert Blanc & Roger Godino. quirements of this new tourist deve- • 1979 - Arc 2000 winter sports quickly became pres- lopment. Designers had to follow a • 2003 - Arc 1950 sing. Accordingly, at the end of the A major project, few basic rules: 1940’s architects, developers and “the creation of les Arcs” • respect for the location and nature 20th Century Heritage Label project management organisations • conservation of the old chalets in devoted themselves to analysing and It all began with the defining meeting the alpine pastures, which modern In 1999, the Ministry of Culture and seeking out sites for the creation of between Roger Godino, planner of architecture did not seek to copy As for the interiors, Communication undertook actions new resorts. New resorts such as La mountain tourist development and but to highlight their authenticity the livestyle rhymes with simplicity promoting 20th Century architectu- Plagne, Les Ménuires, , Robert Blanc, son of the soil, a ski ins- • use of local materials such as tim- ral heritage: protection, awareness, Flaine, Avoriaz and Les Arcs appeared tructor and high mountain guide. The ber: pine, larch, shingles (wooden “Modern decorative art has no decor”, restoration. Accordingly, it set up throughout the 1960’s. We speak then meeting of minds and skills of these tiles which carpenters used to this quotation from Le Corbusier a “20th Century Heritage” label to of «integrated resorts», those where two great professionals was behind fashion in the past). illustrates perfectly the architectural highlight important buildings from the planner takes charge of all the the building of les Arcs. Several archi- Where traditional architecture per- style of the interiors most of which the last century across the country. main aspects: laying out the ski area, tects, town planners and engineers fectly fulfilled the needs of a rural po- were designed by Charlotte Perriand. Testimony to a modernity which has TOURS town planning, facilities, real estate gathered around this initial team in- pulation, what was invented in les Arcs Having worked with Le Corbusier, she been able to blend with the moun- and commercial development and fusing the project with an innovative sought to fulfil the current needs of was able to achieve the ideal balance tains, nature and the town, Bourg Saint ARC 1600, overall management. and creative spirit around Charlotte tourists. Accordingly, residential buil- between simplicity, functionality, Maurice/Les Arcs has obtained listing AN ARCHITECTURAL SIGNATURE Perriand, “the group’s soul”. dings were integrated into the vege- comfort and something that is plea- for five sites: A modern and functional resort tation so as not to interfere with the sing to the eye. Contact with the out- • the Bourg Saint Maurice integrated into the mountain quality of the views from each apart- side came from large windows, raised Town Hall and cinema, landscape and adapted to the ment. The choice of sound and natural balconies and unimpeded views and • the town planning and architec- slope. The work of a design team materials introduced a style that was open-plan kitchens. All these pro- ture of Arc 1600 and Arc 1800, built around Charlotte Perriand and both welcoming and relaxing in the cesses were very innovative in inte- • the Aiguille-Rouge cable-car which included, amongst others, centre of the resorts where vehicles rior design and revealed the coming stations in Arc 2000. the architects Gaston Regairaz, were excluded for the safety and well- of a new philosophy of life that at the Guy Rey-Millet, Bernard Taillefer, being of holiday-makers. same time expressed a certain moral Robert Robutato, Pierre Faucheux… development (especially in connec- The latter designed la Coupole the tion with the image of women). Les laminated roof structure of which is Arcs, a fashionable resort where you the design base for the les Arcs logo. live well! A modern resort, functional and integrated into the mountain ARC 1800, landscape, Les Arcs is also the loca- OVERLOOKING THE RESORT tion of choice for snow-riding sports Between Mont Blanc and the range and numerous renowned international of the Bellecôte mountains, alongside The building of the first sporting and cultural events. a golf course, Arc 1800s architecture button lift. overlooks the slopes … A different kind Nothing to be seen, Guy Rey-Millet, of architecture in the 20th Century. but the first tracks. Atelier d’Architecture The residence “3 Arcs” en Montagne and “La Coupole”, autumn 1968 . The residence “Cachette”, Arc 1600. 26 27 HERITAGE CULTURAL DISCOVERIES

TOURIST OFFICE Place de la Gare – 73700 Bourg Saint Maurice tél. + 33 4 79 07 12 57 – [email protected] www.lesarcs.com

THE CULTURAL HERITAGE DEPARTMENT Jean-Marie Chevronnet, guide-lecturer GUIDED TOURS, CONFERENCES, ACADEMIC INTERVENTIONS