On the Fringe for Spring, Alexander Mcqueen Was Inspired by Charles Darwin’S Premise of Natural Selection
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▲ NEWS: ▲ FASHION: The Dressing CFDA’s ▲ on the ▲ DENIM: RETAIL: Paige new European campaign Premium crop, stores trail, Denim page 3. wary page 12. hits about Las Vegas, holiday, page 8. page 5. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 9, 2008 • $3.00 Sportswear On the Fringe For spring, Alexander McQueen was inspired by Charles Darwin’s premise of natural selection. But the designer worked another theory to beautiful effect, too — string. Case in point: this striking dress composed of ombré strands. For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7. Retailers Cut Deeper, Slashing Inventories As Comp Sales Plunge By Alexandra Steigrad Credit jitters collided with already anemic consumer demand and even a trio of hurricanes to send September same-store sales results to their low point for the year, reducing already sober holiday expectations even further. Although Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s U.S. stores eked out a 2.4 percent gain in comparable- store sales, just missing analysts’ predictions of a 2.5 percent pickup, retailers, particularly department stores, got clobbered by the effects of the global financial crisis and Hurricanes Gustav, Hanna and Ike, causing many to slash third-quarter guidance and a few to even question if their already miserly management of inventories has been sharp enough to minimize their exposure heading See Retailers, Page4 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear Alberta FASHION Ferretti Whether channeling fl apper chic or sharpshootin’ ▲ 4 ™ Western wear, fringe was all over the European runways. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 Retailers got clobbered by the effects of the global fi nancial crisis and three hurricanes in September, ECONOMICS, EXPERIENCE AND ENTHUSIASM causing many to slash third-quarter guidance. Factors Distinguishing Chinese and U.S. Apparel Shoppers 3 Kellwood Co.’s portfolio continues to slim down, as the company confi rmed it will no longer be Anne, a banking professional and new mom, Not all U.S. consumers are plan-ahead shoppers licensing the bridge-priced ck Calvin Klein line. takes a pragmatic approach to most of her pursuits, and the more contemplative variety tend to spend 5 With Britain nearly in recession and Northern Eu- and today, that extends to apparel shopping. “I used less and have more edited wardrobes than their ropean banks buckling, retailers expect a bumpy to be far more impulsive about shopping; I would impulsive counterparts, suggest data from the holiday season. buy whatever caught my eye,” she shares. “Now I Monitor. Female respondents who say that they plan am far more careful and practical; their apparel purchases own seven 8 DENIM: Paige Premium Denim is banking on new I plan ahead and try to buy only pairs of jeans; those who say they stores in Las Vegas and New York to counter what I need.” Anne’s approach buy on impulse own nine. Chinese effects of the economic downturn expected to to shopping according to plan is planners own about 1 more pair of impact its wholesale customers. true for many apparel consumers denim jeans than non-planners. 13 EYE: At the Four Seasons Beverly Hills Monday in the United States, but in the In the last month, planners say night, the honorees at Elle Magazine’s 15th annual still nascent Chinese consumer that they spent $71.80 on apparel Women in Hollywood dinner included Jane Fonda, market, impulse purchases drive versus the $89.80 that impulse Halle Berry and Nicole Kidman. apparel sales. shoppers spent. Anne’s evolution from impulse With increasingly uncertain shopper to planned shopper financial times ahead in the U.S., Classifi ed Advertisements...........................................................................................14-15 mirrors the path of many women planning wardrobes is likely to as their lives and priorities continue as consumers take stock TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS change. According to the Cotton of what they have and watch [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, in what they’re spending, regardless the second quarter of 2008, 60% of their ages and responsibilities. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. of female respondents in the U.S. “There’s a filter between needs and VOLUME 196, NO. 76. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with said that their wardrobe purchases wants; impulse falls more into the one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and “We have seen an increase in wants category,” considers Casey November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division are planned, rather than impulse of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services buys. That figure is up from 50% the number of U.S. female Chroust, Vice President of Retail provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. making the same claim in 1994, consumers who say they are Operations at the Retailer Industry Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post the first year that the Monitor planning their apparel purchases.” Leaders Association (RILA), a Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. started interviewing consumers on — Melissa Bastos trade organization. “And in today’s Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B Cotton Incorporated 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA their practices and preferences. dire economic climate, that’s a 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please “Since we began asking tougher nut to crack; consumers write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. are less likely to be driven by their wants when they Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed the question over a decade ago, we have seen an within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S increase in the number of U.S. female consumers are considering the consequences thirty days from WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 who say they are planning their apparel purchases,” now or worried about making a car payment.” or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened says Melissa Bastos, Manager of Market Research Online shopping in the U.S. may me a more companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive at Cotton Incorporated. Bastos adds, “Economic useful tool for planners that for their impulsive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY necessity has likely driven the trend more recently, counterparts. “I have a feeling there is less impulse OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, but the use of the Internet as a planning tool has shopping online because there’s no immediate PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, gratification,” says Jennifer Scott, Head Buyer for PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS probably contributed to the trend, as well.” SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND As demonstrated by Anne, a tendency to Tobi, an online fashion retailer. China emerges once OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. plan ahead increases over time. According to the again as a study in contrast. The online retail channel Monitor, females ages 13 is markedly less mature in to 24 (52%), ages 25 to Impulse vs. Planned Apparel Spending China, but Global Monitor 34 (57%) aged 35 to 55 data reveals that 30% of DAILY We can end the world (63%) and ages 56 to 70 Chinese consumers who 60% Planned Impulse 59% “ (62%) say their clothing buy apparel on impulse QUOTE now, or try and stay purchases are planned. 54% buy it via the Internet; not In China, however, 50% so in the U.S. says Scott. upbeat about the future. 45% impulse apparel 43% “When you shop 41% – Sir Philip Green, on the” fi nancial outlook. Page 5. purchases are much more 40% online, you don’t have the commonplace. In a recent item in your hand and you Global Lifestyle Monitor 30% know that you won’t get survey, over half of the 26% it for a few days, so there TODAY ON female respondents from 20% is less of the feeling that China agree or strongly you have to have it.” Scott agree that they buy also believes that there is clothing on impulse.